Training Climbing Power Endurance - 3 Common Mistakes
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2024
- If we could sum up 3 things that people really must pay attention to, in their power endurance (also includes a lot of endurance stuff as well!) training, then these three tips are right at the top! Why are they at the top? Well, it's because the vast majority of climbers completely forget to think about these three things and really they're absolutely essential to get right. Ignore them, and you're likely to find yourself in a very poor position...
In this video we cover:
1. Pace of climbing - why is it important to think about the speed of training as well as the speed of performance? Will training fast or slow make a big difference?
2. Grip type for climbing - should we use a variety of grip types when training power endurance? What grip type should you use for your up-coming trip and why?
3. Body position and movement style - why is the way in which you move important? Why does your movement style effect movement economy and how can this affect your success on projects?
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![How to Stop Pumping Out on Boulders [Endurance Training Guide 2024]](/img/1.gif)
Thank you for that pacing advice. one of the best tips i heard in the last 10 years....
Great to hear 💪
I cannot agree more!
Bonus for keeping your shirt on!
I can not express how useful these advises have been. I and my climbing group train once a week circuits & endurance and will be looking into incorporating these points. I especially recognised my self in the type of someone always missing endurance due to sometimes training on wrong holds. Keep these coming they are awesome!
rampel1 we will do! It’s a sit down “Ask lattice” with Tom & Ollie for the next video 🤓
It sounds so obvious but I have never thought about how when i climb outside its mostly making a move, stopping, then accessing and my endurance climbing training deffo does not reflect this... I think i am the classic whizzing around a circuit board. Thanks for the advice and I will change up my endurance sessions now to reflect actual climbing! Happy Christmas!
One way to train a more realistic outdoor (onsight, for example) pace in the gym with 4X4s, for example, is to train with sets that are a mixture of new and memorized routes. The ones you know well will go smoothly and build a good pump (remember to follow Tom's advice and go at a calm pace), then once you jump on a new, unfamiliar route, you'll be forced to focus on good footwork and pacing in order to onsight the route. This has really improved my power endurance and footwork during cruxes
Basically be as specific as possible I’m duration and style
In*
Specificity is everything! To me, the movement stuff you guys do is far more interesting and useful than the usual strength, endurance, power endurance spiel. I have struggled on particular moves on projects purely due to movement, not strength/power. Movement and technique is, has and should always be of first priority.
Really great explanation as to why training power endurance is important, and why training it correctly is important. I will certainly be incorporating your advice into my own power endurance phases from now on. Thanks Tom and Lattice for sharing this!
this is just great !! I never thought about this and just realized that I´m falling over the exact same mistakes. Keep up with the content, very good job.
joao castillo yup that’s why we thought it was about time to do this. Not always obvious, but they have a huge effect.
My wife and I just started leading outdoors this year and have been wondering why the same grade can seem so much harder than in the gym. It makes so much sense now! The pacing is entirely different. Thanks Tom, great video mate.
Also outdoor grades tend to be harder
Great Video! Can´t wait for the gyms to reopen and to train with these tipps in mind!
Well done!
Awesome video quality, Awesome video content.... (Notification Bell On)
Can't wait for the next one!
Thank you Tom! Would love some Pro tips on down climbing, I’m loner and boulder mostly, I often look at the challenge of getting down safely as the most discouraging. I practice down climbing frequently but I don’t see many others that do, so can’t learn it as well, I think this is a really overlooked and relevant skill for climbers. Thanks again.
Your videos are the best and most useful videos I’ve found on RUclips and I’ve watched so many!!! 💜
Thanks! I've edited my training notes to include adjustments on natural movement style, grip style and climbing styles.
This is awesome Tom, thanks for the vid and the advice!!!
After spending a lot of time climbing outdoors, I’ve found myself climbing indoors like I do outdoors... very slowly and lots of hanging trying to figure out the next move. It’s really helped with endurance and finding resting positions off many types of holds.
Very useful, pacing is definitely an issue for me and I fit in that group who starts their PE cycle with a hard circuit that maybe takes 2 minuets, and I'm crushing it in 70 seconds after the 3rd PE circuit session.
Really nice video, Tom! Thank you!
For someone that is new to climbing in general and my main goal is to be a outdoor climber. This is excellent advice bc I started indoor and preparing to be outside.
Smart stuff. I'm projecting a tall V6 that is about 10 hand moves. I looked at video and noticed how long I'm staying on each hold--anywhere from 6 to 10 seconds. I'm sure I move much faster than that in the gym, even on terrain and holds that are similar to my project. Great tip to focus on the pacing, I'll be working to apply that.
Extremely helpful video. Well done and thanks!
Production quality on the videos is getting better all the time! Looking great!
Philip Kramer thanks! We’ll pass the feedback to Sam who’s our filmmaker 😊
Man, you just showed/explained endurance speaking all the time! That was insane!
Thank you for all this precious input you shared with us :)
Fantastic video!!! very useful thanks!!
Excellent as usual! Thanks a lot!
Very usefull video, thanks !!
Very nice thanks a lot Tom
Man thanks for this video now that i have almost a year of climbing this trainings are so usefull.
Thanks so much. Very very good and useful.
Would be great to have a summary of all the important points from the video in the end. Thanks Great input!
Well presented and demonstrated. Great job.
Need info on how to gauge adequate rest between PE circuits and / or work on less developed style skills. What physical feeling says ready to go again?
That was a great video, thanks
quite bold of you to think im going outside...
Ha ha! Well, you've got to be bold sometimes... :-D
I'm really really enjoying the information you are Putting Out!
As a Physical therapist and climbing enthusiast I'm feeling you are closing the gap between science and how to aply that science!
What I would be generelly interessted in is how to programm the different training typs in a week and how you do that dir yourselfs.
Marry Christmas!
As I'm not native english speaking pleased excuse my spelling/grammatik mistakes..
Mo Luper thanks, we’ll keep trying to close this gap in a sport specific, science backed, practical way 😊
I found this really useful, thanks! I think I normally spend more time adjusting hand position and looking for feet when projecting outdoors, it can be quite different when you have the movement nailed on indoor climbs.
Nathan Betts yeah that’s definitely what we find. Really important to get it right
I was a bit sceptic at first, but then after talking to my partner and analysing our training we are definitely guilty for example not carefully choosing grip types that are specific to our projects but just using whatever is there 😅
Great tips, Tom.
Just took a lead class this past week. Very humbling because the pace is different, at least for me. Normally I can do a 5.10 top rope, but the most I could finish on lead was 5.8.
Awesome. Spot on.
Tom, wow, this video so much better edited than all the past Lattice videos!! Content is great as always, but due to the nice quality i forwarded it to maaany friends. Please, keep it coming like this!
Winged Zebra of Justice thanks!! We now have an amazing filmmaker/videographer (Sam) who’s part of the lattice team so he’s upped the game. More like this coming!! 💪💪
@@LatticeTraining That's aaaawesome, props to Sam and the whole lattice team. have great holidays+new year!
Thanks for great tips
For endurance training I prefer traversal training. At my gym we have a bouldering island, and I'll try going all the way around the whole thing. It forces me to go slow and try using hold in new ways also has me work on holds that are a few grades above my level too.
super useful tips!
love it when you come over your self
Quality content!
I'd like more you + anna hazelnutt ^.^ You guys make the best fun and inspiring videos
Very good advice ;)
Great content!
One question:
How would you dial down the intensity on our crimp circuit without moving the holds or switching the wall angle? 😬 Do you take active rest on jugs ?
Thanks 🙏
Phil Climbr the trick that a lot of us at Lattice use, is french traversing AKA traversing the wall with your feet on the floor or on a big plank of wood places at the base of the wall. Really works well but looks ridiculous 😁
About the pace: Would you recommend to make up your boulder circuit whilst climbing? So you can replicate the onsight experience the best, but also you cannot plan the difficulty of the circuit (which is also kind of the fact in many onsights...).
great intro beats
Well SAID 🤗
Tom: so honest!
So what about traversing in training vs. Climbing up on the crag? thanks
Great content I can apply straight away, thank you. Who makes those red and blue dual text edges they look good!
great stuff! get the podcast back on!
amitbendror ah really?? Yikes, that’s even more on our plate 😂
would love to hear more breakdowns of "climber types"
TheTenThousandThings what kind of things are you thinking? Let us know and we’ll add it to the mix pot this next cycle of filming.
Lattice Training -- He was probably referring to "open" vs. "closed/twisting" style of climber (cf. the 3rd topic in the video); other opposition might include static vs. dymanic type of climber, fast-pacing (and unable to rest) vs. low-pacing (and unable to hasten) type of climbers, etc.
Ok what would you do when you've got a knackered finer and ankle ?
Regarding to the first advise, for me its quite the opposite. I use to climb very slow and pacefully, so it takes me much more time (then much more pump) to do my gym routes. But depending on what and how u wanna climb outdoors, u would need to be able to climb faster. Of course u cant climb very fast onsighting, but redpointing or doing long boulder problems you'll probably need to climb fast.
What is red pointing?
In regards to pacing, would it be a good idea to practice with multiple different paces? For example, do one day of really slow and deliberate moves and another day of faster and more dynamic movements to prepare for a variety of different challenges?
Practicing different pacing is good. Even in the same set as this can be very useful in redpointing. e.g. fast though easy terrain and very deliberate through the crux etc.
Out of curiosity, do you guys ever coach asthmatic climbers? Just asking because my asthma is getting worse and some feedback from others would be interesting.
Hey Tom,
Great video! Quality has improved a lot!
Do boulderers need to periodise their training? And if so what periods do you recommend?
Thanks
Jack
Blastdex yes, there is a very good rationale to why both route climbers and boulderers should periodise/organise their training. This goes without saying!! 💪💪 If you want detailed answers on methods prob best to come and join our free Facebook community group page
What if you don’t have a specific climb or goal and just want to be in better climbing condition to increase your chances of succeeding on particular trip?
then you probably want to do what he implied......go slow and pretend you don't know the next hold, pause on the holds and scan for the next hold.
Top!
Das good shit.
In your other vid you told ppl to climb faster and not slow, so what is it???
Would you apply the slower pace to your 1on1off ?
hyau23 yes definitely, but it all depends on how your natural pace compares to the project(s) you’re trying.
Love these videos! I'm working on climbing v10 in 2020. I'm at around a v6 or v7 now. Any advice would be greatly appreciated🤠🤙
Shell Shocked Are you Japanese?
@@TheAlexandreluu nope
@@TheAlexandreluu do you think that might be the reason I don't climb a V10? 😂🤣
Shell Shocked Farms thats quite a jump, I’d take it slow and enjoy the journey, I’m around the same level for you and I’ve already dealt with a finger injury from pushing my tendons too quickly. In my opinion the jump from a 6-7 to a 10 in a short amount of time may overload your fingers. Be careful!
@@ClayterBob yeah I've talked to some other climbers as well and I think that's a good idea. Just enjoy it. In the end that's why I climb.... thanks for the wise words🤙
Tom, if you are ever in the States and are looking for a dream "twist and cross" 14- with 95+ moves like at 14:15, I've got the one for you. It's 60 foot roof crack traverse (it's a bolted sport mostly face moves but some tricky hand jams and foot jams) to boot. I am getting close to the redpoint and hoping to send this spring.
Drop Tom and Instagram message - he'll love that!
@@LatticeTraining Will do!
Can anyone tell me who makes the screw on crimps featured in the video, the two tone ones with white upper half and coloured lower half? Thanks.
We do - it's our Fusion holds
Lattice Training, I don’t see them in your shop. I assume they are not available to the public? Are there plans to sell them? They look excellent and simple
thebuachaille yeah we did them to a few commercial gyms but really they’re product that remains on quote basis. Sorry! 😬
Thanks. I think I understand and appreciate the advice but I have a question: why would I want to mimic my outdoors style when training rather than the other way around? I'll explain. Suppose outdoors my style is bad, due to, for instance, commitment issues or plain inexperience (a lot of the trouble onsighting for beginners is that we don't settle for hard-ish sequences and get stuck looking for better holds). Idk it just doesn't sound fully right to me that if I'm an overly slow climber outdoors I should try to mimic that indoors as it feels like it'll make my body stronger while keeping my outdoor flow and technique as a baseline?
umuspumus I understand your point, but power endurance is all about maximising your performance at your peak, so we’d still say it makes sense to climb your circuits slower in that last 6-10 weeks if you’re struggling outside. You’ve got the rest of the year for speed and also all your other sessions 😊
thanks i always trained endurance wrong
18 mins???
Best way to get injured, climb indoors.
I wish Tom was my dad