A "service" is something you can do yourself with only slight mechanical knowledge. I recommend purchasing the maintenance manual for your engine or finding it online. Changing the oil, lower unit gear oil, impeller, anodes, and greasing any fittings is just about all you'll ever need to do (most of the time). If a two stroke, cleaning carbs is a chore, but easy. Spark plugs may need to be changed and gapped properly. This is all easy to do and I can assure you that your mechanic isn't going to do everything during each service. But they'll be happy to charge you. When I got this engine, I took it to the dealership for the first service. They changed the oil and charged me $$$. Never again.
From a Suzuki doc: Suzuki recommends the use of SUZUKI OUT- BOARD MOTOR GEAR OIL. If it is not avail- able, use SAE 90 hypoid gear oil which is rated GL-5 under the API classification system.
Nice quick info ... but what about the gaskets on the bottom? Did you re-use the old one or replace with new? A good water tight seal is most important...
That's the prop that the dealer sold to me along with the motor. I have not tried a different prop on it yet. My boat is a 1974 19-6 Aquasport. Top speed is 38 mph with this engine and prop. It used to get 43 mph with an 1996 Johnson 150 with a 19P prop. Much better fuel economy now.
No porpoising. I have a jack plate, so the motor was jacked up when I filmed this video. When the jack plate is in the fully down position the fin is well below the bottom of the boat.
@@t4rfl fill the gearcase until the oil runs out of the top vent hole. Let it sit a minute. Begin filling again very slowly and you will see air bubbles escaping the hole. Have a pan underneath to catch the excess oil. Cycle on and off with the fill valve until the oil runs out smooth then screw in your vent screw. Finish by removing the fill nozzle and quickly replace the fill screw. Don't forget those new gaskets!
I had the same question. Seems awkward to fill from the bottom, but that's what the manual recommends. If a "top fill is done slowly, allowing time for air to exit, seems like that should work.
Good video- great dog!
I'd add to go ahead and crack that upper plug first, to make sure it isn't seized up..
Always break loose the fill plug on anything you're draining. If it's seized you want to know it before you start draining.
Thanks for the great video
Good vid! Good looking dog too!
Great vid!!! But you couldn’t lose with that cool doggie!!! 👍
Great job. Thanks
Short to the point... thx well done
Where do you find the adapter that you screwed into the bottom hole? I don't have that, only a straight plastic tube; will that be a problem?
Eric Wylie eBay has the pumps or Amazon. I just ordered the Suzuki one off eBay last night for $15.
A plastic tube will work, but I'd get the pump. So much clearer. An auto parts store should have it.
Seastar makes a cheap plastic pump that has a metric fill screw and a mercury adapter. It's like $8.
Dont forget to change that O ring gasket screw too.
Thanks Mate
You did not change the washers under the screw plugs
It's that easy? I wonder if I can have my mechanic take that part off the bill next time I get the service done
A "service" is something you can do yourself with only slight mechanical knowledge. I recommend purchasing the maintenance manual for your engine or finding it online.
Changing the oil, lower unit gear oil, impeller, anodes, and greasing any fittings is just about all you'll ever need to do (most of the time).
If a two stroke, cleaning carbs is a chore, but easy. Spark plugs may need to be changed and gapped properly. This is all easy to do and I can assure you that your mechanic isn't going to do everything during each service. But they'll be happy to charge you.
When I got this engine, I took it to the dealership for the first service. They changed the oil and charged me $$$. Never again.
Who’s a good boy?
I have a 2015 Suzuki 20hp I do not know what gear oil it uses can you help me find what oil it uses
From a Suzuki doc:
Suzuki recommends the use of SUZUKI OUT-
BOARD MOTOR GEAR OIL. If it is not avail-
able, use SAE 90 hypoid gear oil which is rated
GL-5 under the API classification system.
Here the link to the pdf:
www.suzukimarine.com/~/media/Marine/Accessories/Care%20and%20Maintenance/care_PDF.ashx
@@JimWellman ok thanks for letting me know
Nice quick info ... but what about the gaskets on the bottom? Did you re-use the old one or replace with new?
A good water tight seal is most important...
Coleman T correct, always replace with new seals. Don’t want water getting in.
I just got a Suzuki df140 , what size SS PROP ARE YOU RUNNING.
THANK YOU
G.
I'll take a look tomorrow and get back to you.
@@JimWellman thank you.
14 X 22P
That's the prop that the dealer sold to me along with the motor. I have not tried a different prop on it yet.
My boat is a 1974 19-6 Aquasport. Top speed is 38 mph with this engine and prop. It used to get 43 mph with an 1996 Johnson 150 with a 19P prop. Much better fuel economy now.
@@JimWellman thank you for the response.
i notice the fin on your motor is really high , do you have porpoising issues ?
No porpoising. I have a jack plate, so the motor was jacked up when I filmed this video.
When the jack plate is in the fully down position the fin is well below the bottom of the boat.
I dont think that Quicksilver is GL5 rated.
Should have burped it. Get all the air out before you cap the top. Keep filling slowly until the air stops bubbling out.
how do you do that?
@@t4rfl fill the gearcase until the oil runs out of the top vent hole. Let it sit a minute. Begin filling again very slowly and you will see air bubbles escaping the hole. Have a pan underneath to catch the excess oil. Cycle on and off with the fill valve until the oil runs out smooth then screw in your vent screw. Finish by removing the fill nozzle and quickly replace the fill screw. Don't forget those new gaskets!
@@UberGringo Appreciate the details!
How would air get trapped if it's filled from the bottom? It's pushing the air out the whole time.
@@paulbrown5815 air gets trapped around the gears. If you fill it quickly and cap it off right away, those bubbles won't have time to rise.
Why not add from top
Add what from the top?
O, I see where you're getting at, but that's not how it works. This ensures no bubbles are left inside.
I had the same question. Seems awkward to fill from the bottom, but that's what the manual recommends. If a "top fill is done slowly, allowing time for air to exit, seems like that should work.
Filling from the bottom pushes any air to the top and out. Doing it from the top you could trap air pockets when filling.
Why 80w90 gl4 I think that is not perfect it should be 75w90 gl5 better
I don't know. Do whatever you want.
Jim Wellman yes I did it just now 😊
I did a video on a Suzuki DF60A! Here it is:
ruclips.net/video/pWMFcfWvEAQ/видео.html