informative ! thx rob , just had my old engine serviced and your knowledge of the washers just helped me work it out . easy mistake and won't hold it against my boat mechanic. cheers
Great video Capt. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have a 2004 150hp Honda, I drained the gear oil and the oil came out very milky, I haven't had the engine serviced in almost 2 years. When I removed the drain and leveling screws they both seemed not very tight, it didn't take much effort to remove them. Should I change the o-rings and do a couple of drain and fills to remove all the contaminated oil from inside the gear case? when you said to replace the o-rings and run the motor, did you mean run it with the ears on, on the trailer or take it out and really run it in the ocean/lake?
Captain Rob, thanks for the video. I did not catch the name of the first tool. I just happened to have a very stubborn screw and it make very hard or impossible to change gear oil. I hope this tool could solve the problem
It's an impact driver. They usually come with an assortment of bits. I found a drag link socket ground down fits perfectly. Or a squared off flat head screw stubby with a wrench on it can work too. Order a new screw to put in too. Good luck!
@justinandkathyhansen725 I do not. Do you know where on the motor it is? It's just a rehostat. I think 2 wires. Most of the time if it freezes up they break off. Let me know if you find it under the bracket by the tilt ram.
@@captainrobthompson8728 I will look. I am new to all of this so I am not 100% sure what they look like. I appreciate the content you are putting out. It is so helpful.
@justinandkathyhansen725 I do not. Is it old school wiring or new? Black is negative or ground. Black with yellow is 12v ignition power. grey is signal, red/white are lights 12v. This should help if your chasing power to the gauge.
Hi Tom! I do not. There are a lot of different ways depending on where you live. The best over all way is to run the motor on a freshwater flush in a big bucket with non ethanol fuel and spay the air box with a fogging spray. Run the motor out of fuel and as it starts to run out that's when you fog it. The carb bowls you want dry and free of fuel oil or sticky stabilizer. A thin amount of oil on the cylinder walls. Fresh water through the system. Leave the motor trimmed down so it drains out and spray the engine block with crc656 and your done. I like to do the annual service at this time. Gear oil, engine oil and fuel filters. I drain all the fuel so I am good when I fuel up next year. I hope that helps! Good luck!!
You are correct I did go that way but it is because the recording is mirror imaged. All the screws are righty tight left loosy on these. Sorry for the confusion. It's a one shot deal and I have no camera man. The recording in selfie mode so I know where I am and what I'm working on.
Great video! Appreciate your time. Quick question...I have a 1995 remote BF50A with the 14 wire main harness. I don't have a control box yet because I want to make sure it runs perfectly before investing any more money. I'm trying to start it on a stand. What wires and how do I go about it???
Yes for changing gear oil it is exactly the same. Almost all motors are that way. If anyone tells you you have to tip it up and down and wait 10 to 20 minutes to burp it they don't know what they are talking about. Just make sure when you fill it the cavitation plate is level to the ground. Fill it wait a few minutes 3-5 then pump a few more times and put the screw in. Snug the screw so the washer/o-ring seats. That's it. Good luck!
good evening, sorry, thanks to your video I would like to change the foot oil to my 40 horsepower Honda engine. I noticed that the screws you unscrewed unscrewed them clockwise to remove them, and to screw them, counterclockwise. I'd like to understand that. Thanks, very kind, greetings from Italy
Hi Mario they are right hand rotation. I film in selfie mode so I can see. Righty tighty lefty loosie. Hope you are staying safe and health over there. My wife's family is from all over Italy. Let me know if you need anything else.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Ah, ok, perfect! Thank you so much. Here everything is fine, you start to see a bit of serenity. See you soon, and thanks again. :)
Any old school large honda/mercury drain screw washer will work. Any 80/90 or 90 weight gear oil will work. Boats.net will give you any number you need. Go to Honda/outboard/50 hp/ pick pre 1997. Good luck!!!
I only put on one or the other I think these are plastic just off hand. O-rings could get used again without leaks. Plastic is a one time deal. They are so cheap anyway just by extras. If you ever hit something or get braided line behind your prop you can pull the bottom screw and check for water. Then you have the extras when you need them
Captain I’m just wondering if you could help me? I’m would like to know where you got the semi Cleaver style prop and what pitch and size are you running on you’re 40 hp Honda thanks in advance
That is actually the original 2004 Honda prop. I will check the size when I get home. I may have the box with my spare parts. Stay tuned or write me back if I forget.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Thank you! It definitely helps some the problem that I’m running in to is when ordering a new prop they sent me an original Honda replacement witch is a 11.1x13 and it has rounded ears on the blades instead of a more pointed blade like a semi cleaver blade and it Cavities if it’s not to much to ask I’m wondering what size your prop is because from what I’m seeing your motor is the same as mine a BF40A except mine is a 1999. Anyway thanks in advance
Yes that is it. Kind of a translucent white nylon. I have seen and used Yamaha particle paper gear oil washers too. They are the same bolt size and work just fine in a pinch. The problem with plastic is if you over tighten it will slide out the side and leak. Just snug them and you will be ok.
Ok! Yellow is Honda gear oil. Milky is water intrusion. Just make sure the motor is trimmed up a hair so everything can drain out the hole. When it's done. Trim it straight up and down not trim down all the way. Change the washers and pump from the bottom up like I do in the video. Wait a few minutes and pump again to get the rest of the air bubbles then put your screws in. Top first then bottom. Run it a little and pull the bottom screw real quick just to check the color. If it's milky you need to change the seals. Bring it to a mechanic. If it's ok keep on running. Lots of plastic drain screw washerrs fail from being to tight. You just want to turn them snug. You get one use out of them so buy a few. I hope this helps!!!!
Super helpful, thank you@@captainrobthompson8728!! I'm glad I changed the gear oil before I took it to outdoor winter storage today. I'll run it in the Spring and if it is milky again then I hope you have a video on changing seals ;) Your videos are so helpful, thanks for giving me the confidence and instruction to do the service on my own!
@@jennifergilanfarr7586 unfortunately I don't have to do seals on mine yet. The problem is if done wrong the $$$$ can add up. If in doubt just keep changing the oil. Lol! I'm glad I can help. Always reach out if your in a bind!!!
Hey man I’m having a cooling problem with my BF40A it’s a 1998. Freshwater engine. Thinking the powerheads need to be cleaned. Do you know how to clean them? The shop replaced the thermostat but my engine keeps on not spitting out water after a couple days
Did you have a melt down of the impeller at one point? Try to remove the thermostat keep the cover off and run the motor. See if any chunks come out after running for a bit.
Where the thermostat is remove the cap and thermostat. And run the motor. It's the largest opening. Water and chunks of anything in the block will come out. Yes water will flow around and all over the engine while it's running. Just let it idle. Sometimes chunks block the piss tube port that float around in the block. This gets rid of them.
On that old very carefully. The case may give way. Get a pic and get on the inside and pull. Don't tear the case apart. Make sure you can get the new seals first. They may be mercury if you have black paint under the silver. How much water? Sometime we just change the oil and washers and see how long it takes to have the water come back. If you tighten plastic washers to tight they leak too. If they are big black paper washers it's a mercury gear case. Change the washers and oil first before you go for seals. If you use it a few times a year just change the oil and washers
Captain Rob Thompson thank you you’re a life saver. Gonna change the oil and see how bad it leaks. I’m using this boat a lot. It’s my new fishing boat!
Keep your eyes open for a newer model. I love my Honda's but that's getting up there. Don't be surprised if parts get hard to find. I have seen some 35, 45 models in the last year. If you need schematics of parts don't forger boats.net will have them for you. Good luck!!!!
Need help from you. Currently I order the O Ring, 91301-ZW4-003, and it ran out from boats.net. If I buy from E bay, it cost $8 per O Ring. That's insanely expensive. So, I wonder if you know the diameter of that ring so that I could go check out at Home Depot or Lowe. Thx
I have no idea. Is it the gear oil drain oring? Send me a pic of the screws if you have them out. There is another way but I don't want to be bashed on here by trolls. captainrobthompson@gmail.com
informative ! thx rob , just had my old engine serviced and your knowledge of the washers just helped me work it out . easy mistake and won't hold it against my boat mechanic. cheers
Happy one year on this video, this like all of your videos was incredibly helpful. Thank You so much!!
Thank you Drew! I wish my phone and laptop worked better I would be making more soon being home. Stay healthy!!!
Very helpful and thourough video on changing gear oil. Thanks!
Your welcome!
Excellent video! Great detail and tips! THANK YOU!
great job but it is funny that the video is a mirror image. i was freaking on the lefty-tighty
Yeah I'm a one man show. Lol! Phone is in selfie mode. Sorry!
Great video Capt. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I have a 2004 150hp Honda, I drained the gear oil and the oil came out very milky, I haven't had the engine serviced in almost 2 years. When I removed the drain and leveling screws they both seemed not very tight, it didn't take much effort to remove them. Should I change the o-rings and do a couple of drain and fills to remove all the contaminated oil from inside the gear case? when you said to replace the o-rings and run the motor, did you mean run it with the ears on, on the trailer or take it out and really run it in the ocean/lake?
Great subtle techniques as not to screw up your lower unit.
Captain Rob, thanks for the video. I did not catch the name of the first tool. I just happened to have a very stubborn screw and it make very hard or impossible to change gear oil. I hope this tool could solve the problem
It's an impact driver. They usually come with an assortment of bits. I found a drag link socket ground down fits perfectly. Or a squared off flat head screw stubby with a wrench on it can work too. Order a new screw to put in too. Good luck!
Excellent video. my trim gauges are not working on my Honda 40 hp outboards. You don’t happen to have a video addressing that do you?
@justinandkathyhansen725 I do not. Do you know where on the motor it is? It's just a rehostat. I think 2 wires. Most of the time if it freezes up they break off. Let me know if you find it under the bracket by the tilt ram.
@@captainrobthompson8728 I will look. I am new to all of this so I am not 100% sure what they look like. I appreciate the content you are putting out. It is so helpful.
@justinandkathyhansen725 I do not. Is it old school wiring or new? Black is negative or ground. Black with yellow is 12v ignition power. grey is signal, red/white are lights 12v. This should help if your chasing power to the gauge.
Thumbs Up very helpful Do you have a video on winterizing the Honda 40
Hi Tom! I do not. There are a lot of different ways depending on where you live. The best over all way is to run the motor on a freshwater flush in a big bucket with non ethanol fuel and spay the air box with a fogging spray. Run the motor out of fuel and as it starts to run out that's when you fog it. The carb bowls you want dry and free of fuel oil or sticky stabilizer. A thin amount of oil on the cylinder walls. Fresh water through the system. Leave the motor trimmed down so it drains out and spray the engine block with crc656 and your done. I like to do the annual service at this time. Gear oil, engine oil and fuel filters. I drain all the fuel so I am good when I fuel up next year. I hope that helps! Good luck!!
Thanks for sharing it help me out
Am I crazy, or does this thing have reversed threads? It looks like you went righty loosey :D
You are correct I did go that way but it is because the recording is mirror imaged. All the screws are righty tight left loosy on these. Sorry for the confusion. It's a one shot deal and I have no camera man. The recording in selfie mode so I know where I am and what I'm working on.
I was gonna say the same thing. Was confused as all heck.... glad I'm not crazy
Thank you!
Great video! Appreciate your time. Quick question...I have a 1995 remote BF50A with the 14 wire main harness. I don't have a control box yet because I want to make sure it runs perfectly before investing any more money. I'm trying to start it on a stand. What wires and how do I go about it???
Thank U Captain Rob. is it the same with 2012 Honda BF50?
Yes for changing gear oil it is exactly the same. Almost all motors are that way. If anyone tells you you have to tip it up and down and wait 10 to 20 minutes to burp it they don't know what they are talking about. Just make sure when you fill it the cavitation plate is level to the ground. Fill it wait a few minutes 3-5 then pump a few more times and put the screw in. Snug the screw so the washer/o-ring seats. That's it. Good luck!
@@captainrobthompson8728 Thanks.
Great video dude. Did my oil change today a little little milky last year it was the same any help
good evening, sorry, thanks to your video I would like to change the foot oil to my 40 horsepower Honda engine. I noticed that the screws you unscrewed unscrewed them clockwise to remove them, and to screw them, counterclockwise. I'd like to understand that. Thanks, very kind, greetings from Italy
Hi Mario they are right hand rotation. I film in selfie mode so I can see. Righty tighty lefty loosie. Hope you are staying safe and health over there. My wife's family is from all over Italy. Let me know if you need anything else.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Ah, ok, perfect! Thank you so much. Here everything is fine, you start to see a bit of serenity. See you soon, and thanks again. :)
I own a 1995 model 50hp, can you please tell me the proper part Number fir those years!...Thank you!
Any old school large honda/mercury drain screw washer will work. Any 80/90 or 90 weight gear oil will work. Boats.net will give you any number you need. Go to Honda/outboard/50 hp/ pick pre 1997. Good luck!!!
@@captainrobthompson8728 Thank you!
Thx a lot. Did you put the o-rings on as well or only the plastic washers? Kind regards JK.
I only put on one or the other I think these are plastic just off hand. O-rings could get used again without leaks. Plastic is a one time deal. They are so cheap anyway just by extras. If you ever hit something or get braided line behind your prop you can pull the bottom screw and check for water. Then you have the extras when you need them
Great video but it looks like left hand threads, might has right hand threads on the left side of the motor.
They are right hand threads. In the description I note I film in selfie mode so I can make the videos solo.
Captain I’m just wondering if you could help me? I’m would like to know where you got the semi Cleaver style prop and what pitch and size are you running on you’re 40 hp Honda thanks in advance
That is actually the original 2004 Honda prop. I will check the size when I get home. I may have the box with my spare parts. Stay tuned or write me back if I forget.
Thanks I would really appreciate it I’ve got a 1999 Honda 40hp and with the original round ear prop It cavitates
I have part number 59130-zw2-f10za Honda prop. It is aluminium and the original. I hope that helps.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Thank you! It definitely helps some the problem that I’m running in to is when ordering a new prop they sent me an original Honda replacement witch is a 11.1x13 and it has rounded ears on the blades instead of a more pointed blade like a semi cleaver blade and it Cavities if it’s not to much to ask I’m wondering what size your prop is because from what I’m seeing your motor is the same as mine a BF40A except mine is a 1999. Anyway thanks in advance
I put in part number for the plastic washer....All that I get are nylon washers. Is this correct?
Yes that is it. Kind of a translucent white nylon. I have seen and used Yamaha particle paper gear oil washers too. They are the same bolt size and work just fine in a pinch. The problem with plastic is if you over tighten it will slide out the side and leak. Just snug them and you will be ok.
Thanks!
Milky yellow gear oil came out! Not sure it’s ever been changed... how do you make sure you got it all out? What would the next logical step be?
Ok! Yellow is Honda gear oil. Milky is water intrusion. Just make sure the motor is trimmed up a hair so everything can drain out the hole. When it's done. Trim it straight up and down not trim down all the way. Change the washers and pump from the bottom up like I do in the video. Wait a few minutes and pump again to get the rest of the air bubbles then put your screws in. Top first then bottom. Run it a little and pull the bottom screw real quick just to check the color. If it's milky you need to change the seals. Bring it to a mechanic. If it's ok keep on running. Lots of plastic drain screw washerrs fail from being to tight. You just want to turn them snug. You get one use out of them so buy a few. I hope this helps!!!!
Super helpful, thank you@@captainrobthompson8728!! I'm glad I changed the gear oil before I took it to outdoor winter storage today. I'll run it in the Spring and if it is milky again then I hope you have a video on changing seals ;) Your videos are so helpful, thanks for giving me the confidence and instruction to do the service on my own!
@@jennifergilanfarr7586 unfortunately I don't have to do seals on mine yet. The problem is if done wrong the $$$$ can add up. If in doubt just keep changing the oil. Lol! I'm glad I can help. Always reach out if your in a bind!!!
Video is mirror image. This is standard right tight left loose.
Yep everything is righty tighty lefty loosie
Hey man I’m having a cooling problem with my BF40A it’s a 1998. Freshwater engine. Thinking the powerheads need to be cleaned. Do you know how to clean them? The shop replaced the thermostat but my engine keeps on not spitting out water after a couple days
Did you have a melt down of the impeller at one point? Try to remove the thermostat keep the cover off and run the motor. See if any chunks come out after running for a bit.
Captain Rob Thompson is this something I could easily do at home?
Yeah just run on muffs or in the water and let it flow out the top. You'd be surprised what chunks we've seen.
Flow out the top of what?
Where the thermostat is remove the cap and thermostat. And run the motor. It's the largest opening. Water and chunks of anything in the block will come out. Yes water will flow around and all over the engine while it's running. Just let it idle. Sometimes chunks block the piss tube port that float around in the block. This gets rid of them.
Why can’t you fill it through the top hole?!
You don't displace the air right and it takes forever.
If you don't have an impact driver get one. rhere only about $15 at a parts store. Make sure you have
Are the threads reversed on Honda
Nope it's the camera. I can only film in selfie move so everything looks backwards. It's rightly tightly lefty loosie
Andddd my oil has water in it. How do you change the seals?
On that old very carefully. The case may give way. Get a pic and get on the inside and pull. Don't tear the case apart. Make sure you can get the new seals first. They may be mercury if you have black paint under the silver. How much water? Sometime we just change the oil and washers and see how long it takes to have the water come back. If you tighten plastic washers to tight they leak too. If they are big black paper washers it's a mercury gear case. Change the washers and oil first before you go for seals. If you use it a few times a year just change the oil and washers
Captain Rob Thompson thank you you’re a life saver. Gonna change the oil and see how bad it leaks. I’m using this boat a lot. It’s my new fishing boat!
Keep your eyes open for a newer model. I love my Honda's but that's getting up there. Don't be surprised if parts get hard to find. I have seen some 35, 45 models in the last year. If you need schematics of parts don't forger boats.net will have them for you. Good luck!!!!
* mirrored image video
Need help from you. Currently I order the O Ring, 91301-ZW4-003, and it ran out from boats.net. If I buy from E bay, it cost $8 per O Ring. That's insanely expensive. So, I wonder if you know the diameter of that ring so that I could go check out at Home Depot or Lowe. Thx
I have no idea. Is it the gear oil drain oring? Send me a pic of the screws if you have them out. There is another way but I don't want to be bashed on here by trolls. captainrobthompson@gmail.com