Ruger 10/22 bolt polishing
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- Опубликовано: 12 дек 2024
- In this video I do a little bit of polishing and ease some corners to improve the performance and reassembly of my 10/22.
Affiliate links from places I shop anyway (if you buy it here I might make a few cents):
Waterstone for polishing: bit.ly/38c4Vs1
Volquartsen bolt tune up kit: bit.ly/2X2whdC
Weaver punch set: bit.ly/2M1lYUX
GI Sling at the appleseed store: store.rwvaappl...
ruger10/22
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I used polishing rouge, felt wheel and my Dremel to polish all the metal to metal surfaces. The radius on the rear of the bolt that cocks the hammer, I wheeled a much less of a sharp step to a more smoother ramp. Gun grease on my fingertip on all the surfaces. Now the bolt travel is so smooth and this has reduced "stove pipes" drastically.
I thought about adding the radius but didn't get around to it. Maybe in a future effort. Thanks for the feedback!
I polish same surface PLUS both sides. I then polish the inside of the receiver which appears to be painted wherever the bolt makes contact. Been doing this to every 10/22 I get my hands on. My first 10/22 got an absolute mirror polish when I was 14 years old. My brother took that gun from me and has never returned it. Haha. That’s what brothers are for. He said he loves the slick feel of that action. It’s a real nice thing to do to these Rugers. You don’t have to get a perfect mirror polish. If you spend 30% of the time toward a mirror polish you probably have done 90% of the slicking up that you desire.
These are phenomenal guns. My bull barrel one was just printing 10 shot groups inside 2” at 100 off the bench. Basically a big jagged hole. I haven’t found any ammo better than any other either. It does seem to like the high intensity MiniMag type ammo for cycling. Such a positive cycle sound when you fire. You know the round ejects and the next one is in battery waiting for you.
What grit do you use
I've been thinking about re-barreling one with a bull barrel to see if it helps with accuracy. Did you buy it that way or change it? Is there a noticeable difference?
@@jimmychang1433I start with 220 on the bolt. I don’t press hard and I use a lot of oil on the sandpaper. By the way I use the black paper. It’s made to be wet. I then move up to 400 then 600 then 1000. I have gone all the way to 4000 since I have a lot of various sand papers. Really though after you get up to 400 you are done. You can also use a Dremel and a wheel with polish to finish it off. It gets smooth and shiny. The inside of the receiver is a bit of a pain to get to and it really pays off fussing with it though. The inner slide surface has like a paint coating and if you get down to bare metal and smooth it out it really helps.
None of this is tough. It’s just time consuming and a little cranky inside the receiver.
But NOT HARD. So worthwhile doing it.
@@desertislandtoolworks1956I have built 10/22’s and put bull bbls on them. The one I currently have a former CT State Trooper built and sold to me cheap and since it shot slightly better than my other one I had I sold that one and kept this. Bull bbls make a HUGE HUGE difference in handling and being steady - 22’s have low recoil anyway but bull bbls add weight and it’s up front so you really dampen the recoil. Makes it so easy to get back on target.
Alright. Enough. I gotta go shoot mine seeing as I just got excited thinking about it!
@@armedmarinerl😊
I used mag wheel polish and an old tshirt cut so it lays perfectly flat on a table. It turned out awesome and feels way smoother in operation. My next plan is to radius the bottom rear of the 10/22 bolt and polish both my mossberg 640kd bolt and ruger american bolt.
Sounds like a good way to do it, how'd it work on the other guns?
@@desertislandtoolworks1956 pretty well. No longer get that zip sound with the American and the Mossberg is smoother as well.
I did my bolt,inside of receiver,hammer and recoil guide rod. The action is so much better now.
I need to go check my recoil guide rod too, it catches when I try to reinstall so probably needs some work.
I just grabbed the little knob on my speaker setup and turned it clockwise and through the magic of digital audio amplification I was able to hear him just fine
Thanks Cody!
This guy gets it ;)!
I've owned two of these bad boys one time 10 years ago one of the best guns i ever had
I just picked up a second one too (have two kids ;))
Great video, be sure to let us know what the outcome is! Your voice volume is a little low (as aggressively mentioned below), but I really appreciate the fact that you went easy and quiet on the music and kept the background noise to a minimum. Thank you!
I've ran it a few times and it is much better. I think promo ammo is now the only real issue we have. In the next few weeks we are going to get it out and run some better stuff. Right now any ammo I can get is about all I can hope for though.
Raised surface on that "new" bolt means less machining and smaller contact patch which is a win win for Ruger who loves to cut corners if it doesn't really effect operation. Smaller contact patch would theoretically reduce friction... I'd say just put some lapping compound on it and shoot a box or 2... That's pretty much what Glock does.
I'll bet that would be pretty effective too, may try it on the next one I have trouble with.
excellent idea.
10/22 are so fun with all the aftermarket parts.
absolutely, my 1022 does not look anything like when I bought it. Pretty much upgraded everything and made it my own custom rifle. Excellent rifle.
I agree, thinking about restocking it next.
@@desertislandtoolworks1956 Magpul X 22 backpacker is what I got on my 10/22 takedown all aftermarket parts on it nothing Ruger but the mags.
I've been looking at the Magpul Hunter, but also thinking about getting a wooden stock blank to work from. Can't decide :(
@@desertislandtoolworks1956 that is a tough decision wood you can coat it and give it a nice old school shiny look vs magpul tacticool look
All this video on the Sugar 10-22 makes me want to go to the next gun show and buy one. Even though I have no place to shoot it.
Greg, you have to find somewhere to shoot! ;)
No kidding the local outdoor ranges have waiting lists. There is a indoor pistol range that may let me shoot low velocity ammo. Thanks for your response.
@@gregwarner3753 Oh man, that sucks. Our ranges were like that for a little while but are pretty reasonable again now. Fortunately I also have forest and BLM land within a few hours of me so can get out there on my own away from any yahoos.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching!
I looked for follow up videos to find out it it did any good, but could not find one.
My opinion is that if it does anything it's more sloop between receiver and bolt which is rather something negative.
As long as there is not any ridge where the bolt gets caught the spring and the recoil operates the bolt just fine.
I'd think that cleaning and lubrification does the same as polishing.
If anything the polishing might only do anything if you use subsonics with a supressor.
I didn't make a followup video but this resolved the issue I had with the bolt closing. I have since purchased another 10/22 that did not have any issues from the factory. I think this is something to consider if you have an issue but certainly every gun does not need it. If you found this problem in a new gun you could certainly send it back as well but for me this was an older gun and not something I felt I could send back. If the work hadn't resolved the issue I had planned to buy an aftermarket bolt so really no risk in what I did either. Thanks for your comments and for watching.
Well done VIDEO - sound and all - WHEN one has his/her 10-22 rifle all tech out by an expert this must be one of the things they HAVE to do.
Many of my knife stones from my other hobby will do YOUR POLISHING trick and USE the water: from diamond to the cheap stones. Note Spyderco only goes down to about 1000
on their triangle sharpener - the other one is about 600. Thank you for taking the time - it was an eye opening way to l@@K at the Ruger 10-22 rifle...
Lots of options for sure, thanks for watching.
A little cleaning and oil does wonders
Yes it does! Especially around the extractor claw and slot in the barrel. That said I've also found that not all bulk ammo is equal either, the Winchester I was running is pretty disapointing.
Wrong..oil is the worst thing you can put on a 10/22 the ammo as dirty as it is you should be using a dry lube. Unless you like taking the entire gun apart for cleaning every 200 shots.
@@ngirardo86 ah yes, the great conspiracy where ruger tells you in the manual to wipe lightly with oil to trick you into hating their product and never buying another. A little goes a long way but no reason to let a gun rust.
@@desertislandtoolworks1956 I don't know how you store you're firearms but I've NEVER had one get any sort of rust and I haven't used actual oil in probably over a decade. Nothing against oil its just when better products come out why wouldn't you use them? I bet anything you don't put conventional oil in your car anymore. Synthetic is a much better. Same goes for firearm cleaning products.
@@ngirardo86 I don't know what magic you are using bud, butt good for you.
This is a great video! I don’t understand how people can’t hear you. Apparently they might want to invest in hearing aids!! 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you for the kind words, their feedback was helpful. I've learned to post better sounds on future videos but not how to fix this one. I agree that its not that bad though, so I haven't deleted and reposted it.
Nice upgrade. I'd also check the extractor recess in the end of the barrel for carbon fouling. That area can collect gunk and cause some extra drag you first notice if you ride the bolt forward. Less likely, you could have a barrel clocking issue too. Happy shooting.
Thanks, I've done those as well and all seems well on that front. It is running pretty well now as long as I use decent ammo (which is hard to find these days).
I've a question: What about the surface on which the bolt rides? Should one polish it, and how should it be done?
Joe, I deburred the inside of the receiver with a scotch bright pad in that area but did not actually do anything to the bolt here. I would inspect the bolt and very lightly polish any area you find to be rough. I just bought a second 10/22 and the bolt is much better from the factory. I don't think I'll touch it (unless I decide to radius the back of the bold more). This second gun also runs much better out of the box. Thanks for watching and hope this helps.
Only guy I’ve ever seen besides myself that wears a watch on each wrist.
It’s called the Schwarzkopf, he did it all the time ;). In my case the right wrist is actually an rfid tag to my pistol safe by my bed.
@@w6dfmp242 I forgot he did that! I’ve always heard about the “Castro”, 2 on one wrist. But not one named for Stormin Norman. Thanks for the insight. I wear 2 because my kids bought me an Apple Watch but I’m an automatic guy. So now I wear both. 🤷♂️
I definitely want the "Schwarzkopf" moniker over the "Castro" so I guess I'll keep to one on each wrist ;).
Old people wear watches
@@fishtoledo and athletes, musicians, actors and other people with disposable income.
Did it reduce jams?
I was having issues with the bolt going into battery. That seems much better after this, although I also stopped using some winchester promo loads that seemed to be problematic. The extractor change out seemed to improve the stove piping as well. All that said I purchased another 10/22 that has none of these issues when I run them side by side so clearly not needed on everyone.
Agreed! Nobody likes sloppy!
Very true, hopefully all the firearms manufacturers will hear your message!
You should never sand. You loose too much material and then it's sloppy. Just polish those points and it will remain tight but run so much better.
Exactly.
Great point, that is what I did. The stones are polishing stones not sand paper.
Did it help?
Yes, on this gun it solved some of the issues I was having. On others I've not had any issues as they come from the factory so don't always do this.
I am confused about how aggressive some of the commentors are.
Me too, just sharing my process and learning and got jumped on. All good though, the interaction drives up the views I think ;).
@@desertislandtoolworks1956 I just repeated a similar process on my bolt with an 8000 grit whetstone. Mine is an older bolt so the contact surfaces are larger. Certainly improved the smoothness of the action and possibly accuracy (could just be placebo leading me to take more time on my shots). I also polished the face of my bolt and the breech face of the barrel. There had been some pitting on the breech face of the barrel so I mostly took that off but was afraid of removing too much metal. Really enjoy touch up work like this where you can improve function without opening your wallet. Thanks for the content.
@@originaloldpop8405 thanks for watching and for the feedback. I’ll try to keep them that way when I make more.
It's the internet, so many informed opinions here!
why doesnt the water make the bolt rust?
It was only wet for a short time. I dried it and then applied plenty of Rem oil before I put it back together.
Whats that you say sonny boy cant hear ya ?
try turning on the subtitles
Thanks for the feedback, at this point I don't know how to fix it for this video but I'm adjusting before posting on new videos.
I have stones up to 10k!
This one is 1000 on the grey side and 8000 on the yellow.
1000/8000
does anyone think that this as made one twit of difference
I do.
Yes, we've had it out a few times and it runs much better now. Interestingly a second 10/22 I bought runs this good out of the box.
Looks like you screwed up the spots you first polished when you did the second polish.
Probably just the camera, they were nearly mirror polished.
I think you're right.
What a poorly finished bolt AS COMPARED TO THOSE OF 20 YEARS AGO. Anything to cheapen production costs I guess. Screw the buyer.
I wish I had an older one to compare it to. I've only ever owned lever and pump 22's until this one. Bought it so my son and I could do the Project Appleseed events together and then found it needed some work right out of the box. It's running a lot better now.
@@desertislandtoolworks1956 good luck. The older guns never seem to have a problem.
Good lord, some of the commenters in here need to relax.
Lol, I hear ya. Thanks for watching, I'm all for constructive feedback but it does get out of hand sometimes.
Your volume is way way way too low buddy
You are correct, you've inspired me to understand this better and I see it is -14dB. Unfortunately I haven't been saving my video's and don't know how to fix this on the video at this point. I'll keep trying and thanks for the tip, it seemed fine on my editor but clearly I need to pay more attention on the uploaded version.
your channel is starting to attract haters
I think that means I've made it ;)!
to fast, your not teaching nothing but how you can do it
I try to balance making the video useful but also not boring. Sorry I missed the mark for you and thanks for the feedback.
Removed far more material than was necessary or beneficial.
Do you actually have training in this? How did you determine the necessary amount to remove?
I don’t mean any disrespect but the multitude of these DIY videos just wind up spreading incorrect information.
Flitz polishing compound would have been a much less destructive choice.
It’s difficult not to read your questions as disrespectful but I’ll go ahead and give you the benefit of the doubt. The stones I used were designed to polish the blades of hand planes and very fine. As you can see I did not even remove all of the machining marks from the bolt. I’m not sure how you determined that I removed too much material but I’d argue that it’s a false claim for several reasons. 1. The bolt is well within the sloppy tolerances of other ruger bolts. 2. The bolt functions better now than before I worked on it. 3. This work has little potential to create any safety concerns.
I appreciate your feedback, it is possible buffing would have helped but it does not creat a flat surface only rounds the corners of the rough machining. This was work done to fix an issue, not something I’ve needed to do to other 10/22 rifles. Worst case was that it wouldn’t help and I’d buy an aftermarket replacement. I shared this as something I was playing with and do not profess to be an expert. Too many keyboard warriors caution people against learning and experimenting. Things like this can be done safely and are educational. Sometimes they work sometimes they don’t. The spirit of ingenuity and self sufficiency is dying in this country. I’m just doing my stupid little part to counter naysayers like you ;).
If you have some gunsmith lessons you’d like to share I’d love to watch and learn but it is for the most part a group of professionals that doesn’t readily share their knowledge. I understand the liability associated with it to an extent but think it’s more than that.
@@desertislandtoolworks1956 That was a great reply! 👍
@ClutchClarkUSA He was using a Japanese POLISHING STONE. You must have missed that part, eh?
Flitz is in the 4000 grit range. The stone he used is a 1000/8000 grit. That stone is a far better option than the flitz on a dremel wheel. For starters, the stone keeps everything relatively flat. The 1000 works four times as fast and the 8000 will polish the bolt twice as smooth... You understand?
You almost lost a finger there chief. Please NOBODY watch this guy he doesn't even know how to take the bolt out properly.
Thanks for watching, I’ll tune over to your channel and maybe learn the proper approach.
@@desertislandtoolworks1956 I look out for me. I don't need a channel to show basic simple stripping of my 10/22 bolt. However if you'd like I can personally email you a video of the proper way to do it.
@@ngirardo86 If it is so simple and easy why were you watching the video in the first place?
Yes please send it along, if the quality is good enough I'll even post it here for you so others can learn too. I'd much rather a constructive solution.
@@desertislandtoolworks1956 send the email
FIRST STEP: Ensure the gun is unloaded. Too many accidents happen when people jump right in and start disassembly first before unloading the gun. As you stated, First Step: Disassemble the gun. This is unsafe instruction and you should know better, don't assume anything. Even police officers have accidentally shot themselves while cleaning their guns because they failed the proper first step of ensuring the weapon is unloaded.
Basic firearms safety dude.
That is actually the zeroth step and was clearly done before the video started. It was in fact done before the gun went back in the truck, before it came in the house, checked before it went in the safe, checked when it came out of the safe, and finally rechecked before any camera gear come out or work began. All that said, yes if someone doesn't realize all this they shouldn't rely on me to explain it but worth saying none the less.
If you have to be told to "make sure the firearm is unloaded" before every single video on any kind of firearm maintenance or modification then I suggest you go back to watching gun safety videos until you can complete that step yourself without relying on someone to tell you to do it... Do you also need people to tell you that knives are sharp??? Basic common sense dude.
@@C.Double. Are you talking to me? I made my comment because he said, First step disassemble the gun. It only takes seconds to mention "safety first", and if your skipping that and telling people how to work on a gun then you are giving bad, unsafe information, never assume the people you are instructing realize the gun should be unloaded, this is how accidents happen. Ever look at the owners manual that comes with a gun, how many times does it state, "Important make sure the gun is unloaded before performing any work"! "WARNING! Unload weapon before disassembly, failure to do this may result in death!" Also this is Not step zero (no such thing) it is Step one. You protesting against me shows you are just as ignorant about gun safety, assuming people should already know to unloaded the weapon first.
@@glennlewis835 You are the kind of guy that blames the coffee shop because you burned your mouth on the coffee you just ordered... and in turn, you are part of the reason why so many warnings and disclaimers have to be proclaimed. Its not the responsibility of those with common sense to keep those without it from getting hurt, its just a common courtesy by some... in the end, YOU are responsible for your firearm, YOU should already know the protocol before even purchasing a firearm. Stop shitting on people who are just trying to share some knowledge because they didnt present it in NRA safety instructor programming. Get over yourself.
@@C.Double. First, I'm a Patriot Endowment Life member of the NRA. Second, you don't know me so for your information I am Not the person you think I am. I have common sense, something which is becoming less common. I know to make sure my firearm is unloaded before performing any work. However you seem to be skipping over the gist of my original comment which was First step is NOT disassembly as stated in the video. FIRST step is always ensure the weapon is unloaded. He could have simply stated, "after unloading the weapon" disassemble ....etc. Safety is ALWAYS first. The warning and safety labels on everything are there as a result of many ignorant, unsafe people with no common sense. If people could be trusted to have common sense then the warning labels wouldn't be needed but, that is unrealistic. You can't assume everyone has common sense and you can't assume every gun owner knows how to handle a gun safely. Why does every gun owners manual have warnings in them if everyone has common sense, because, not everyone is as smart as you assume they are regarding gun safety. A reminder of safety doesn't hurt but, an accident does. You may feel inconvenienced by a mention of safety or too many safety labels to read. I would rather spend a little time being reminded of safety than accidently realize I should have been safer. Time out for safety.
The models made prior to 2007 are much nicer on fit and finish. You can also polish the inside of the receiver. Bill Ruger would roll over in his grave if he saw some of the current fit and finish with his name on it.
Thanks for watching, I did do a little polishing to the inside as well. Overall it is running much better now. I also have a Ruger Vaquero from around 1997 that is beautifuly made. Really love that ol piece, modern offerings don't seem to compare but haven't seen a newer revolver from them in a while.