Ruger 10/22 Sear Polish
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Part of most trigger work for the Ruger 10/22 involves lightening the trigger return spring in some way, either by cutting coils on the factory part, or dropping in a lightened aftermarket spring. Although that will lighten the trigger pull, you might also find that the trigger will no longer reset. The common answer is to just use the factory weight spring, but that's a band-aid fix, forcing the parts to work rather than fixing them and making it run like it should. Here's how to do that.
As Always, Brimstone Gunsmithing takes no responsibility for anything you may do to your firearm! This video is for educational purposes only, any modification you do to your firearms, you do at your own risk! We always recommend you send your rifle to a competent gunsmith.
Spent a couple of hours with a stone and 1500 grit. The first couple of times I worked on the hammer and sear and polished every contact surface. For fine tuning I focused on the sear removing it at least 6 times, removing a tiny mount from the head of the cut.
In short, it breaks clean and the pull is 1 1/2 to 2 pounds.
Don't ever drop the rifle !
Love the demonstration of the movement of parts during the firing of the gun. Thanks.
Thanks for the video, I was contemplating buying an aftermarket trigger group, then I heard about Brimstone in an online forum. Sent them my setup came back amazing.
Now I know what you did! I will send more work your way.
One happy canuck here!
That's awesome! We do a remarkable number of triggers for our northern brethren. If there's anything else we can help you with, let me know!
David, thanks for this info. It's excellent. I had already purchased a replacement hammer before I knew of your company and gunsmithing services. In hindsight had I known about you I would have had you do a Tier 2 trigger job. In watching one of your other videos where you explained the trigger return spring, a lot of information was clarified at that moment. Again thanks, Sir and my compliments to you for your professionalism in sharing this info.
Great video man. Some of these other videos were just like
"start filing on shit!!"
I appreciate you explaining the mechanics properly.
Thanks for the tips! Just finished my wife's 10/22 brought it down from 7lbs. to 2.5 avg.
I used a dermal tool and white jewelers rouge to polish my parts. It came out perfect without removing any material.
I hired brimstone to upgrade the bx 22. They did an excellent job and it came back at 1.5 lbs , virtually no reset and includes a new trigger. You provide the bx 22. they upgrade it and send it back for around $100. Well worth it if you want a great trigger.
Thanks man! We do a ton of those...
After a trigger spring kit, the trigger was still rough. So after using the info here and one other video my trigger breaks and resets so much more cleanly.
Thanks.
Wonderful that I found you. I have a 10/22 Takedown Lite coming, and will send in my trigger group for your custom work. I will order the service once I get the rifle. Thanks.
Fantastic, time to make a trip to the hardware store and polish up my trigger!
Awesome video, great clear instructions, giving this a shot tonight!
Good video. One small thing: Dull 1,000 grit sandpaper is not the same as sharp 1,500 grit. It cuts slower, but leaves the same size scratches. You'll get a better result switching to the finer grit.
Super explanation. Thanks.
Great Video. Good job explaining problems, and fixes.
Great educational video.
My return spring was binding in the hole. It took polishing that to lighten up the pull.
We don't sell complete trigger groups at this point, although we may in the future. Keep an eye on our website and Facebook; we'll announce it there when we do.
Thanks for the informative video.
Great video! Good narration and content!
a couple years ago I got my 10/22. when I went prairie dog hunting after each shot the trigger would not reset and I had to push it forward myself. I shot it 50 rounds to see if it would get better. no. lucky I had my favorite browning SA22 and used it that day. I was near a small town hardware store and got a 3 dollar fine grit carborundum stone. took the thing apart and just knocked the burs and roughness off a little bit being careful not to make a mess of it. its been fine ever after. when I ran into the Ruger representative I told him how unhappy I was with the poor job they did and how angry some customer wold have been if they could not fix this themselves easily, spoiling their hunt and requiring sending the gun back to Ruger. my gun has the new style shiny hammer. the 10/22 will never be the great gun the Browning SA22 is but for the price and with a little work its a good gun.
That’s a great story. It takes a special kind of person to be able to take something like this apart, figure out what needs polishing, and go from there. Good job, glad it’s worked for you!
I’m moral opposed to Brownings. Not John Moses himself for course, but the company which bears his name is not what it once was. So I would go the opposite direction... but when I think about it, my Rugers have very few Ruger made parts on them... so maybe I don’t have much room to talk..
Thanks for writing and sharing that story, and as always, let me know if there’s anything else we can help with!
@@BrimstoneGunsmithing My brownings, one made about 1957 and the other a japan version. I have absolutely no idea why someone would not want to own a browning for moral reasons. my suggestion. support OUR President Trump for good reasons and do not support or believe the traitors who want our country destroyed. as for your trigger I installed. works very nice. has a built in training aid. the edge of the trigger is very sharp and discourages one from curling the finger over the edge. since we need to push the trigger in the center with the pad of our finger anyway. the sharp edge just helps to train proper trigger skills. note: my gun had a 10 turn interrupter spring and would not work. I watched the video. you showed an 8 turn spring. I trimmed mine to 8 turns and wa la! works great. just in case anyone else finds a factory spring to long. I rate the trigger a success.
The issue I have with brownings is the design of their firearms. Especially stuff like the BLR. Very complicated, rack and pinion gear system that is easily damaged and very difficult to repair. Steel barrel pressed into an aluminum receiver which pretty much eliminates the possibility of replacing the barrel for any reason. And the cherry on top, everyone assumes they are an upstanding American company, but the guns are made in Japan. Which I’m fine with, to a point, but since they aren’t built here, they have a tendency to discontinue models and then refuse to do any warranty work on them. When, because of stuff like pressed in barrels, it pretty much has to be a factory repair.
But those are extreme circumstances, I have thousands of customers who have been very happy with their Brownings for decades 👍
And glad the trigger is working for you! As always, let me know if you need anything else!
@@BrimstoneGunsmithing thank you for the information. I don't own any of those guns you mention and I will watch out so I don't get stung.
very informative ty
Thanks for sharing
Tempted to use my wife's nail buffer block.
Thank you!
I'm a amateur but I got a set of norton stones to finish.
i bought my ruger a couple months ago.....those contact points seem to be lightly polished already on mine....have you noticed the same with newer 10/22's?
Hand Banana Nope, it's not really polished, you're just seeing the wear marks of the parts sliding past each other. Those shiny marks are proof of why this does help.
Thanks 👍👍👍
👍 thanks !
Just wish that when people know they have bad lighting they addressed that fix first.
How long of a turnaround we talking
EXCELLENT
Thanks for the tip
I'm having this problem with my trigger group and I have sanded it then tried it about 6 times but it still won't reset. Should I just keep going ? I don't wanna but any new parts.
Great video! If you "Only" do the polish you did in the video how much difference does it make over all ?
Good vid!
What tier is this? Nice work
Hi, I am enjoying you video from 10 years ago.
Hopefully you're still around to point me in the right direction. About 20 years ago when I had a lot of time on my hands I modified my 1022 recently I just got to go out with a friend to shoot it after almost the same amount of time and he made a comment of how lite the trigger pole was.
I have since purchased a lineman electronic trigger pull gauge. It reads out at 2.12 to 2.15 Lbs.
My wife and I have always talked about that we create our own problems, if I try to lighten the trigger pull anymore. Do you think that's advisable and I've only polished two surfaces, or said ground down it's kind of hard to remember what I did 20 years ago maybe more like 24
I've completely dissembled the rifle. All but the spring for the safety. She's dirty. Also, do you have any recommended cleaning solution to remove the carbon?
Thank you
2.15 lb trigger pull is pretty low. 👍The BX gets down to 2.5 lb. As long as it doesn't accidentally discharge, that'd be as low as I'd go DIY.
I have a 10/22 that the trigger is hanging up on it doesn't want to fire.
instead of sandpaper, can you use a dremel to polish it instead? Thanks
thanks for the vedio
Is there anything we can do to the factory hammer to help that deep notch with the shitty angle lawyer trigger?
Top Secret, do you sell the polished parts on an exchange basis or sell kits?
What is the weight of the shutter at the ruger?
How many thousands of an inch (.000) can be removed from the back of the sear and remain within spec?
SuperSaltydog77 I have no idea. There is so much variation between trigger groups that I'd say it would be pointless to try and assign a number value. I do it all by feel.
As a rule of thumb... do LESS of a radius than you think you need, and only polish until the factory finish at the highest point disappears.
BrimstoneGunsmithing TY for your video and reply. I will have to give it a go myself. Start with the idea that less is more. Can always remove more later.
I (over)worked my hammer and sear. Got a terrifically nice, light pull... but when the safety is engaged and I pull the trigger there's a tiny click then when I take it off safe, the hammer falls. What's the fix for this? I obviously need to redo some angles to get more hammer/sear surface engagement, right? Can you do a vid on the angles needed to get things right?
jon-anthony Lewis Hey, sorry for the delayed response, been away from RUclips for a while and wow! Turns out these videos are fairly popular!
That actually has nothing to do with your sear/hammer engagement or angles... not really anyway... the real fix is stretching the lower 'leg' of the sear so that it sits on the safety more firmly with the safety engaged. We typically use a ball peen hammer. You have to know what you're doing though, or you risk cracking the part. For liability reasons I'm not going to go into great depth on that, but if you do your homework on this issue I'm sure you can find some more info on it. I will say that we automatically fix that with any trigger work that we do.
Hope that helps!
AND THAT'S THE REASON I won't be removing any material. I already learned my lesson on a Winchester rifle. The trigger will not cock anymore.
I know this is 9 yrs old, but can anybody share a link where I can obtain individual trigger group parts?
can i just order a trigger from youguys?
well maybe the new bx trigger will alleviate this prob.
Les Rinehart Not really, but you also have to be careful doing this with the BX trigger... as in, really be careful! Those do have less engagement than the standard triggers.
Bill Dauterive I would be careful with a dermel depending on how you use it. You can take too much material away with a Dremel if not careful.
I was disappointed. I finally decided to sent my trigger to them but they stopped performing the trigger jobs a month and a half ago
would normal wear and tear smooth these issues over time?
It could, theoretically, but what I have found is that on this particular surface there really isn't a lot of pressure between the slide components. I can't say that I've ever seen one which had broken in from use. In fact it's usually the opposite (kind of), as the springs weaken over time or even just after taking an initial 'set,' you'll see issues arise. But again, can't say that I've ever seen them go away. So... theoretically yes, but practically, no? Lol, hope that helps!
It does. Thank you. I have taken your advice on the Polish and it feels great. Thanks again
Not on my 30 year old Ruger. 10 seconds of polishing with 800 grit did wonders for a gritty feeling trigger.
aowi7280 after watching some video and reading a lot my 10/22 has an amazing trigger after some elbow grease. Perfect break, set screw for no more over travel, and lots of polishing including reshaping the bolt. It’s very nice.
I’d love to see you do some more guns
A dermal tool haven't heard of one of those, got a dremel myself.
So order s dosconnector from you and then see what you do to it and make it common knowledge for the good of the gun community?! Yes yes I will
you think some one making a video of his hands with 142,000 views would have washed them first lol