I plan on doing a verses shootout between the 2 of them to show the difference in accuracy. I'll do some tuning first on the stock to give it the best changes possible but most likely the custom will still be around 40-50% better groups.
I’ve built about 15 of these guns. There’s zero accuracy gain with an aftermarket receiver. The only way it’s worth buying one is if you don’t have a factory one to start with. 90% of your accuracy is in the barrel. The rest is in making sure the barrel is floated from the stock, the rib on the bottom of the bolt is rounded so it does not scratch the bullet. Couple other little things help too but a receiver adds about 0.00% accuracy.
@@Turbogto_guy 💯… Same with an AR. Years ago I was all set to buy a Daniel Defense and a friend introduced me to one of his coworkers that is HEAVY into AR’s. Guy literally had 1 of probably every manufacturer at the time and several he put together himself. He let me shoot the 3 Daniel Defense rifles he had then some of the ones he pieced together himself.. Needless to say I ended up with a rifle he helped me piece together using an Adams Arms stripped upper and lower that he inspected and gauged to make sure they met tolerance before I payed for them. After him showing me how to put together a rifle I absolutely refuse to buy a AR off the rack.
Congratulations! Really nice build. From experience, I always clean the new barrel before putting rounds through it. They usually come filthy from the factory, regardless of who makes it.
I have found that if you put just the aluminum reciever in the oven and heat it at 225 for just a couple minutes it will expand just enough to slide the barrel on and off somewhat easily. When it cools it will contract and make your barrel fit tight like it's supposed to for better accuracy. Give it a try.
_EXACTLY_ what Tigerologist said earlier, a snug barrel fitment equals better accuracy. Toss the barrel in your freezer overnight so the metal shrinks, then the next evening (right next to the freezer!) heat the front of your receiver up with a hair dryer on high for a minute so it expands the Aluminum. Pull the barrel out once the receiver is warmed up and the two should slip together perfect, in fact most 10/22 barrel makers (and even some AR barrel makers like JP) make their barrels a 'hair' too thick on _purpose_ for this very method, called either thermofit or thermalfit depending who you talk to.
Just found your channel today, I'm excited to follow along to see your progress 👏🏼 groups are looking good! 😎 When I built my 10/22, I did a couple extra steps on my heavy barrel that gave me worthwhile results. I had my gunsmith shorten the (good ol SAMMI spec) chamber by .0002", then taper lap the barrel and re-crown. I didn't necessarily get better accuracy BUT it made my groups more consistent. Cheers!
An easier way to install your 10/22 barrel is to heat the receiver in the oven at about 250F for about 20 minutes. Take the receiver out with an oven mitt and the barrel will slide right into the receiver. You need to be quick to line up the extractor slot as it cools quickly, but you will get a much better fit than hammering it home with a mallet.
The best way to install a barrel is to first get yourself a stick of butter (make sure it's unsalted), a whisk, 3 eggs, a cup of milk, some maple syrup and a few slices of bread. First preheat your pan to medium on your stove and then pour the eggs and milk into a large bowl and whisk vigorously. Soak the bread in the mix and then butter the pan before taking the soaked-through bread out of the bowl and placing it in the pan. Flip after a few minutes and soak your next slice in the bowl. Remove the first slice after around 4 minutes and continue the process until all your bread is cooked. Be sure to replenish the butter periodically. Stack the bread on a plate and then cut into squares. Lightly spread maple syrup on top to your taste. Then put the barrel in the action. Maybe heat up the action and cool the barrel before you do.
I got this Kidd bolt put in Fac Ruger Reciever made it way more picky with Ammo Thing Ruger is to soft of a metal for that Kidd bolt How is reliability with this set up any feeding issues Honest opinion Appreciated✌🏻
I did something that you might like, drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the back of the receiver to run a cleaning rod through the barrel without taking it off. Thank you for the video. Thank you Sir
You need to put the Dlask extended mag release next. It won't shoot better, but it makes activating the bolt lock and releasing the mag with much less fumbling.
The largest gains that I saw were from the chassis and trigger. Could be different on other rifles, but there's some low hanging fruit for some quick accuracy gains.
Tuff 22 receiver $259 SBI Chassis $299 Kidd Bolt $159 Kidd trigger single stage $285 XLRC Buttstock $400 Where did you start with the $300 Ruger 10/22. You have a $1400 custom built rifle without all the accessories. Thank God you didnt mention that NRL 22 is supposed to be attractive to the recreational shooter. Next time you should do a build with and around a real 10/22 and do it under $800. It's very possible and very competitive
Hi nice vid, I see the receiver has two threaded holes on the back below the cleaning hole does the receiver come with the stuff to use that rear mounting config? Does the new receiver come with the adjustable V block and bolts? I was thinking of getting an IBI barrel bu by the looks of your groups it's not to promising for a 500 plus barrel.
The scope is attached to the receiver. The barrel is pointing where the bullet goes, obviously. So the joint where they meet is the most important design part. ALL!!! TARGET GUNS HAVE A SCREWED JOINT THERE!
Ruger's 10/22 design doesn't sadly, it uses a vblock to hold the barrel on. There's some aftermarket barrel / receiver combos that have a threaded barrel, but they are expensive and don't provide the accuracy they claim to give from what I've seen.
@Road to NRL22 The old Remington and clones were notorious for slop in the threads. I have one with the scope cantilevered from the barrel. I have never gotten the kind of accuracy you do. Keep up the show.
Perhaps you could heat up the new receiver to allow the old barrel to fit. With aluminum, not much heat and temperature is required. Also, refrigerant could also be applied to the chamber end of the original barrel to shrink it. That would be a shrink fit and was probably the original intention. For what it is worth, a shrink fit is best.
Haha that's funny, my ruger CHF bull barrel was way too loose and was dropping in my Grey Birch receiver. Caused about 20-40moa of barrel droop so I had to shim in.
I'm going to be doing the small simple upgrades to my 10/22, like auto bolt release and mag extension release button. What else I'd like to do is a upgrade to have the bolt lock back on the last round, and be able to use the bolt lock back level as a bolt release as well. Any company out there who offers this upgrade to the ruger 10/22?
That's the plan, take the original 10/22 and put it against this on the range to see what the difference is on the same day, same conditions, same ammo.
Genuine questions here: what's the point of buying the base 10/22 if you are just going to replace everything? Again, this is not sarasm, I'm thinking iI'm missing something. Thanks and great video.
Absolutely valid observation. My goal was to try to figure out if it's even worth doing for others. I wanted to see what parts would add the greatest accuracy and provide a step by step example of how to slowly improve a 10/22 if it was worth it. I also wanted to be able to compare with the baseline again. So now that the gun is built, I can re-build the $300 10/22, tune it, and compare it. I'm hoping in the end it will be a good science experiment, and if it works out I'll do the same with a CZ455 or 457, and maybe move to a centerfire platform.
Those aren`t threads on the chamber end of that OEM ruger barrel. Those are just machine tool marks left on there from ruger doing their normal shiddy machine work.
I actually found out during editing that I didn't press record on that part when filming. The vblock and screws are also replaced with a dlask arms vblock.
Wish you had shown the struggles barreling the receiver after all is that what the tutorial was about. You never stated that the receiver has to be assigned a ffl #
Nice! I'm looking for something like the vokquertsen 22 handguns to shoot alot more since ammo is unbelievable. But I also can't spend $700+ on a 22 pistol
My buddy has an SR22 with the rearsight removed to put in a plate for a vortex red dot. It took a lot of fiddling to get the red dot and dovetail plate mount aligned properly, but once we got it, it's been pretty alright. Not on the same level as a Volq, obviously, but still fun. Volq isn't the only one making custom Ruger Marks, though. I'm sure there are other great options that are a little cheaper. Of course, you can save your money a little longer and just get the Volq. If you go shooting often enough, the extra you paid will pay for itself. Their waitlist is pretty long, I think.
@@makeitreal2787 In the US...That New receiver IS the Gun... I'm building one now....No Ruger OEM parts.... Receiver is bought online....Transfered to my FFL store I deal with... I fill out form 4 and it is then transferred to me.....I'm in Fl.
Ive been looking at the DLASK tuff22 and Faxon recievers, the DLASK is 7075 aluminum and the Faxon is 6061 aluminum, and the DLASK costs less, anyone have any thoughts on this?
@michaelcoley9360 the SBI C-71, spectre ballistics international in Alberta, it was $200 Cad and also 6061 aluminum. They told me there's hardly a benefit in the harder 7075, I'm happy with it so far. Since then I've also ordered their chassis
So this is not really a 10/22 but lots of other parts to make a look-a-like 10/22. after all the costs why not purchase a Volquartsen and be done with it.
CCI standard Velocity groups better than some Eley and Sk in my build. Haven't shot any Lapua yet, so we will see. Also CCI is readily available were the others are very hard to find at times.
So why do you even say you are taking a 10/22 and making it better when you don't have any of the original 10/22 left. Should have just done the custom build vs original.
Sorry but this to me is a good way to waste money. I would just have save and save money at the start and buy a fully built Kidd or whatever custom brand 10/22. It would had been built by a professional builder complete with warranty. But to each his own, its a free country.
You literally wasted the money buying a Ruger rifle by buying the receiver. You literally have ZERO Ruger parts on it.. lol A friend has a super grade Kidd rifle and I have a rifle with a Ruger receiver, Volquartsen trigger kit and KIDD ultra light barrel, bolt, spring and buffer.. His rifle is a tad more accurate because it’s basically a bench competition rifle to where I built mine to be an ultra light hunting rifle. However the difference isn’t super drastic.. I already had a Ruger 10/22 for years to build off is the only reason I don’t have an aftermarket receiver.. We actually put my ultra light barrel on his KIDD receiver and seen ZERO difference compared to it on my Ruger receiver..
If you guys want the best accuracy don't get your barrels threaded for a stupid suppressor. When they run down threads the bore opens up ever so slightly. Pro tip from a top 25 br shooter in the country
So at the end you’ll have a completely custom precision 22 rifle, and also a fully stock 10/22 with all original parts. 😂
I plan on doing a verses shootout between the 2 of them to show the difference in accuracy. I'll do some tuning first on the stock to give it the best changes possible but most likely the custom will still be around 40-50% better groups.
@@road2nrl22 Haha, I was wondering if anything was left from the original 10/22. That being said, it is a great video!
I’ve built about 15 of these guns. There’s zero accuracy gain with an aftermarket receiver. The only way it’s worth buying one is if you don’t have a factory one to start with. 90% of your accuracy is in the barrel. The rest is in making sure the barrel is floated from the stock, the rib on the bottom of the bolt is rounded so it does not scratch the bullet. Couple other little things help too but a receiver adds about 0.00% accuracy.
@@Turbogto_guy 💯… Same with an AR. Years ago I was all set to buy a Daniel Defense and a friend introduced me to one of his coworkers that is HEAVY into AR’s. Guy literally had 1 of probably every manufacturer at the time and several he put together himself. He let me shoot the 3 Daniel Defense rifles he had then some of the ones he pieced together himself.. Needless to say I ended up with a rifle he helped me piece together using an Adams Arms stripped upper and lower that he inspected and gauged to make sure they met tolerance before I payed for them. After him showing me how to put together a rifle I absolutely refuse to buy a AR off the rack.
@@lanejohnson7656 I’ve got three ar15 I built. Easy. Cheap. I won’t buy a complete one either.
Congratulations! Really nice build. From experience, I always clean the new barrel before putting rounds through it. They usually come filthy from the factory, regardless of who makes it.
good tip.
I have found that if you put just the aluminum reciever in the oven and heat it at 225 for just a couple minutes it will expand just enough to slide the barrel on and off somewhat easily. When it cools it will contract and make your barrel fit tight like it's supposed to for better accuracy. Give it a try.
And......... put the barrel in the freezer overnight.
@@WallDiver7 Nooooo, there's no need to put the barrel in the freezer if you do it the way i said in my comment before. Just sayin
_EXACTLY_ what Tigerologist said earlier, a snug barrel fitment equals better accuracy. Toss the barrel in your freezer overnight so the metal shrinks, then the next evening (right next to the freezer!) heat the front of your receiver up with a hair dryer on high for a minute so it expands the Aluminum. Pull the barrel out once the receiver is warmed up and the two should slip together perfect, in fact most 10/22 barrel makers (and even some AR barrel makers like JP) make their barrels a 'hair' too thick on _purpose_ for this very method, called either thermofit or thermalfit depending who you talk to.
Nice build. Would be great to see the follow-up video with the ammo test.
Just found your channel today, I'm excited to follow along to see your progress 👏🏼 groups are looking good!
😎 When I built my 10/22, I did a couple extra steps on my heavy barrel that gave me worthwhile results. I had my gunsmith shorten the (good ol SAMMI spec) chamber by .0002", then taper lap the barrel and re-crown. I didn't necessarily get better accuracy BUT it made my groups more consistent. Cheers!
So why even buy a new 10/22? You have no original parts.
An easier way to install your 10/22 barrel is to heat the receiver in the oven at about 250F for about 20 minutes. Take the receiver out with an oven mitt and the barrel will slide right into the receiver. You need to be quick to line up the extractor slot as it cools quickly, but you will get a much better fit than hammering it home with a mallet.
The best way to install a barrel is to first get yourself a stick of butter (make sure it's unsalted), a whisk, 3 eggs, a cup of milk, some maple syrup and a few slices of bread. First preheat your pan to medium on your stove and then pour the eggs and milk into a large bowl and whisk vigorously. Soak the bread in the mix and then butter the pan before taking the soaked-through bread out of the bowl and placing it in the pan. Flip after a few minutes and soak your next slice in the bowl. Remove the first slice after around 4 minutes and continue the process until all your bread is cooked. Be sure to replenish the butter periodically. Stack the bread on a plate and then cut into squares. Lightly spread maple syrup on top to your taste. Then put the barrel in the action. Maybe heat up the action and cool the barrel before you do.
I got this Kidd bolt put in Fac Ruger Reciever made it way more picky with Ammo Thing Ruger is to soft of a metal for that Kidd bolt How is reliability with this set up any feeding issues Honest opinion Appreciated✌🏻
This build has turned into “The Ship of Theseus”. Pretty cool build
I did something that you might like, drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the back of the receiver to run a cleaning rod through the barrel without taking it off.
Thank you for the video. Thank you Sir
It was already there on the TUFF receiver
You need to put the Dlask extended mag release next. It won't shoot better, but it makes activating the bolt lock and releasing the mag with much less fumbling.
Great videos. I just got my first rifle it's a 10/22. Your giving me great ideas for upgrades
The largest gains that I saw were from the chassis and trigger. Could be different on other rifles, but there's some low hanging fruit for some quick accuracy gains.
Tuff 22 receiver $259
SBI Chassis $299
Kidd Bolt $159
Kidd trigger single stage $285
XLRC Buttstock $400
Where did you start with the $300 Ruger 10/22. You have a $1400 custom built rifle without all the accessories. Thank God you didnt mention that NRL 22 is supposed to be attractive to the recreational shooter. Next time you should do a build with and around a real 10/22 and do it under $800. It's very possible and very competitive
Hi nice vid, I see the receiver has two threaded holes on the back below the cleaning hole does the receiver come with the stuff to use that rear mounting config? Does the new receiver come with the adjustable V block and bolts? I was thinking of getting an IBI barrel bu by the looks of your groups it's not to promising for a 500 plus barrel.
I chilled my Barrel and put my receiver on my oil heater went together real nice work for me probably not for everybody pretty cool
Can you use the ruger 25 round mags with this receiver? Ive seen dlask has its own mags that dont work with the original receiver
The scope is attached to the receiver. The barrel is pointing where the bullet goes, obviously. So the joint where they meet is the most important design part. ALL!!! TARGET GUNS HAVE A SCREWED JOINT THERE!
Ruger's 10/22 design doesn't sadly, it uses a vblock to hold the barrel on. There's some aftermarket barrel / receiver combos that have a threaded barrel, but they are expensive and don't provide the accuracy they claim to give from what I've seen.
@Road to NRL22
The old Remington and clones were notorious for slop in the threads. I have one with the scope cantilevered from the barrel. I have never gotten the kind of accuracy you do. Keep up the show.
Love this series.
@Road to NRL22 any updates on the final results? Would love to see an update.
Curious how this turned out in the end, and how well it shot? I just finished all your videos.. great build btw!
That was way too easy to reinstall the bolt. I ended up buying the Gunsmither Bolt Bar and Extractor Tool. I'll have to give this technique a try.
I agree, was way too smooth. Gonna try it next time I'm in there.
Perhaps you could heat up the new receiver to allow the old barrel to fit. With aluminum, not much heat and temperature is required. Also, refrigerant could also be applied to the chamber end of the original barrel to shrink it. That would be a shrink fit and was probably the original intention. For what it is worth, a shrink fit is best.
Why didn't you use a retainer clip on the rod for the charge handle? Pardon my ignorance I'm new to this.
Dlask says the C or E clips are prone to breakage. The spring kits don't ship with the retaining clips anymore.
Haha that's funny, my ruger CHF bull barrel was way too loose and was dropping in my Grey Birch receiver. Caused about 20-40moa of barrel droop so I had to shim in.
Specter Ballistic C 71 Apex Carbon. One and DONE Amazing Rifle
Yes they are. But building from scratch is more fun.
I just bought a 10/22 and looking to upgrade it as well. Subbed
Yeah I stuck a dlask barrel into my SBI receiver and it was TIGHT. I could never get it apart.
Barrel in the freezer and a heat gun on the receiver was the only way to get it together.
I bet that receiver pin will slide in easier with a little silicon grease. It wont damage the rubber hose either
I'm going to be doing the small simple upgrades to my 10/22, like auto bolt release and mag extension release button. What else I'd like to do is a upgrade to have the bolt lock back on the last round, and be able to use the bolt lock back level as a bolt release as well. Any company out there who offers this upgrade to the ruger 10/22?
Do you have to make a tapered edge on the receiver trigger group for the Allen keys ? if so why didn't the manufacture add it then ?
Now you have enough "spare" parts to build another 10/22. Maybe a Magpul X22 stock.
That's the plan, take the original 10/22 and put it against this on the range to see what the difference is on the same day, same conditions, same ammo.
Are you liking the x22?
@@novusbuildcraft1400 It's a solid stock and fits good.
Missed opportunity to show what could be done with a stock bolt/reciever.
TYVM! great vid!
can't wait to see more.
You missed the e- clip for the end of that charging handle spring
Dlask does not ship the E-clips with the spring kit any longer.
Genuine questions here: what's the point of buying the base 10/22 if you are just going to replace everything? Again, this is not sarasm, I'm thinking iI'm missing something. Thanks and great video.
Absolutely valid observation. My goal was to try to figure out if it's even worth doing for others. I wanted to see what parts would add the greatest accuracy and provide a step by step example of how to slowly improve a 10/22 if it was worth it.
I also wanted to be able to compare with the baseline again. So now that the gun is built, I can re-build the $300 10/22, tune it, and compare it. I'm hoping in the end it will be a good science experiment, and if it works out I'll do the same with a CZ455 or 457, and maybe move to a centerfire platform.
@@road2nrl22 Cool. Subbed to see the results.
That was my comment too. Why not just build one from scratch, then buy a 10/22 and not mess with it?
I want to do something to my 10/22 but I want to do it with cheaper parts. Just to see how much better I can make it with cheap upgrades.
There's some good parts in almost any budget. The accuracy gains from spending 2-3x as much are probably only 30% more honestly.
@@road2nrl22 That's the law of diminishing returns rearing it's ugly head again. LOL
The barrel stubs are intentionally oversized by about .002". Sandpaper it to make it fit.
Those aren`t threads on the chamber end of that OEM ruger barrel. Those are just machine tool marks left on there from ruger doing their normal shiddy machine work.
Whats left of the Ruger 10/22.
You could have quoted the price on each item since you said no expense spared.
Ummm ok and so you built a completely separate 22 lr with a hodgepodge of parts on it while you also regained the completely original Ruger 10-22
really enjoyed this build, but why did you buy the 10 /22 rifle. the only thing you used from it is maybe the clip lol
Are the barrel wedges and screws the only remaining original parts?
I actually found out during editing that I didn't press record on that part when filming. The vblock and screws are also replaced with a dlask arms vblock.
Wish you had shown the struggles barreling the receiver after all is that what the tutorial was about. You never stated that the receiver has to be assigned a ffl #
Have you lapped your barrel?
Nice! I'm looking for something like the vokquertsen 22 handguns to shoot alot more since ammo is unbelievable. But I also can't spend $700+ on a 22 pistol
My buddy has an SR22 with the rearsight removed to put in a plate for a vortex red dot. It took a lot of fiddling to get the red dot and dovetail plate mount aligned properly, but once we got it, it's been pretty alright. Not on the same level as a Volq, obviously, but still fun. Volq isn't the only one making custom Ruger Marks, though. I'm sure there are other great options that are a little cheaper. Of course, you can save your money a little longer and just get the Volq. If you go shooting often enough, the extra you paid will pay for itself. Their waitlist is pretty long, I think.
Really nice looking gun I’m pricing it up soon
Do they have one to shoot the 22 win.mag.?
Cool build man!
I look forward to seeing it in competition. Do you have any ORPS/CRPS comps in your area?
Yup, 2 ranges within a 45min drive host them regularly.
Hi what are the benefits of an aftermarket reciever and bolt?
Dude! you can Build back the 300$ 10/22 Again? now you can sell that original 10/22 !!!!!
Yup, that's the plan. Have a rebuild video and shootout after I finish tuning the new one.
@@road2nrl22 how you are going to register your new Gun?
@@makeitreal2787 thankfully no such thing exists (yet) in Canada for rifles. Trudy the clown is trying as hard as he can though.
@@road2nrl22 I hear you, it is in Quebec though! all Shits are in Quebec actually!
@@makeitreal2787 In the US...That New receiver IS the Gun... I'm building one now....No Ruger OEM parts.... Receiver is bought online....Transfered to my FFL store I deal with... I fill out form 4 and it is then transferred to me.....I'm in Fl.
How well does the white spring cycle subsonic?
Those aren't threads on the factory barrel..... that's from the parts being machined on a lathe lol.
Did you order HC3R magazine? they are sweet!
Yes, I'm going to be doing a video on different 10/22 magazines to see if they change accuracy at all.
@@road2nrl22 Probably wont change accuracy, But you can hold 45 rounds on it plus extra 20 in the second stripper clip.
but is it still a 10/22 anymore?
Say the price of each part as you introduce it
Who made the stock and the chassis???
So your taking a $300 Ruger and turning it into $1500?
What chassis is that? The red is beautiful
Spectre Ballistics International
Ive been looking at the DLASK tuff22 and Faxon recievers, the DLASK is 7075 aluminum and the Faxon is 6061 aluminum, and the DLASK costs less, anyone have any thoughts on this?
Which one did you go with? I’m in the same situation
@michaelcoley9360 the SBI C-71, spectre ballistics international in Alberta, it was $200 Cad and also 6061 aluminum. They told me there's hardly a benefit in the harder 7075, I'm happy with it so far. Since then I've also ordered their chassis
@@arthurwurtz4591 awesome that’s good to know. Thank you for the reply
Dlask is Canadian
You have to register the receiver
I like it
Where is part 7?
Congrats, you now have two thousand dollars (plus) in a 10/22 that won’t shoot MOA. 😂😂😂
So this is not really a 10/22 but lots of other parts to make a look-a-like 10/22. after all the costs why not purchase a Volquartsen and be done with it.
What's the purpose of telling the parts used if you aren't going to list them in the description?
weight?
Your are building a precision rimfire rifle. Why in the world would you even shoot the CCI ammo.
CCI standard Velocity groups better than some Eley and Sk in my build. Haven't shot any Lapua yet, so we will see. Also CCI is readily available were the others are very hard to find at times.
So why do you even say you are taking a 10/22 and making it better when you don't have any of the original 10/22 left. Should have just done the custom build vs original.
What you're saying in essence, is that the 10/22 is crap.
Sorry but this to me is a good way to waste money. I would just have save and save money at the start and buy a fully built Kidd or whatever custom brand 10/22. It would had been built by a professional builder complete with warranty. But to each his own, its a free country.
You literally wasted the money buying a Ruger rifle by buying the receiver. You literally have ZERO Ruger parts on it.. lol
A friend has a super grade Kidd rifle and I have a rifle with a Ruger receiver, Volquartsen trigger kit and KIDD ultra light barrel, bolt, spring and buffer.. His rifle is a tad more accurate because it’s basically a bench competition rifle to where I built mine to be an ultra light hunting rifle. However the difference isn’t super drastic.. I already had a Ruger 10/22 for years to build off is the only reason I don’t have an aftermarket receiver.. We actually put my ultra light barrel on his KIDD receiver and seen ZERO difference compared to it on my Ruger receiver..
The 10/22 is a Lego gun you really didn’t build anything you just unbolted part and bolted new parts on.
Minor complaint. It would be more enjoyable listening to you if you'd stop uptalking. Just saying. Otherwise, well done.
Just build a rifle and save 300$ wasted on the stock rifle! I swear people are so silly with this sh!?
This is useless,,, the hardest part to do, he doesn't show..
IBI Barrels suck
If you guys want the best accuracy don't get your barrels threaded for a stupid suppressor. When they run down threads the bore opens up ever so slightly. Pro tip from a top 25 br shooter in the country