Great video! Has helped me immensely while performing this repair on a 2007 Touareg 3.6L BHK. One small note I’d like to make clear for anybody using this video as a guide for their repair. You must turn the crankshaft 4 times to completely line-up ALL of the timing marks. The crankshaft and camshafts will line up every 2 revolutions, but the high pressure fuel pump gear and oil pump gear will line up every 4 revolutions. If you slow this video down you can see this. Not trying to be nit-picky, just gave myself a mini heart attack after turning only 2 revolutions and noticed the fuel pump gear and oil pump gear not lining up.
I have since finished this repair and would like to offer your viewers a few pointers. 1 - my crankshaft shaved off tooth was EXACTLY lined up, the camshaft locking tool installed, and all copper links perfectly placed on the oil pump gear / camshaft adjuster timing marks. I still had some slack on the non-tensioned side of the chain (like you see in this video). I installed the timing chain this way and the engine runs perfectly / does not set any timing correlation codes. 2 - after installing the timing chain, removing the camshaft locking tool, and rotating the engine 4 revolutions (to line all timing marks back up), I noticed that to get the camshaft locking tool back into place I had to turn the crankshaft about 1/3 to 1/2 a tooth past the "exactly" lined up position, and even then I had to slightly rotate each camshaft with a wrench to get the camshaft tool into place. I probably turned the engine over 40 times by hand to confirm no interference and each time the marks lined up just very slightly off by eye. 3 - there are exactly 13 links *between* the oil pump timing mark and the high pressure fuel pump gear, 22 links *between* the oil pump mark and the intake timing mark, and 16 rollers (not links, rollers) between the intake timing mark and the exhaust timing mark
Hello man, u saved my life !!!! My friend asked me if i Can replacement his timming chain superb 3.6, i said fine, i have servise manuál but still been off about what is going on.. now when i found your video i Can do it izi pizi ❤❤❤
@@PBGaragei have question about variators,, you moved with him to left, this mine are like locked, i Can move with him but really little. Thats mean they are bad right?? Owner dont want buy new or used because 1 variator cost 730€ fór both it is around 1500 euros and used are selling for 500-800€ .. now i dont know what to do, if car will running smoothly when they are not mooving.
I'm about to do this on my cc and was a bit hesitant until I saw this. I've done it on a 2.8 and thought it would be a lot more complex with the high pressure pump and cam adjusters. Thanks!!
Great video! Thank you for sharing. One thing I noticed that had me concern at first was that when I did the two rotations of the crank shaft my marks didn’t line up, but after I watched the crank you actually rotated it 4 times. I rotated it two more time and it all lined up. So maybe you meant to say 4 instead of two? Thanks again!
Hey thanks for the feedback, you are correct, I say two but do four. It should still align with either though, surprised it didn't. Hope the rest of the project goes well for you! Keep us posted how it goes.
My old Passat WVWCU73C86P166850, 2006, back in 2007 I believe it was I had the issue of the bolt of the oil pump come loose or sheering don’t know what actually happened, but VW Naples repaired this issue then as car was still under warranty. I think it had like 7,000 miles on it. A while back, I put car in storage as it was throwing some strange codes, referring to timing and I did not have time to take a look. Decided to stake car apart 240,000 Miles to change timing chain, and upon opening engine chain cover, I noticed the bold of the oil pump was completely loose and top sprocket was almost about to come loose from the bottom one. As this repair was done so many years ago, and it happened again (yes 230,000 miles later) is there a new fix for this issue? I saw in your video, that there is a newer oil pump which uses a larger bolt, and the two gears are combined are being installed, but do they work on this engine, or are there other part numbers and will correct this problem? The part numbers I found where: 03H115105L Revised oil pump 03H109569A One piece gear N10203803 M12 bolt for revised pump
Great video! I have a Touareg with the V6 3.6 that needs new chains and guides. Did you video the steps for actually removing the the engine from the car and transfer case?
Amazing Video Brother! I do have a question if you could help me? Audi q7 3.6 2009 recently had several misfires and also triggered p0014 camshaft solenoid VVT. You think it’s possible for me to take a look at camshaft solenoid on the back of the engine with just taking out valve cover exposing camshafts instead of completely taking out engine? I saw the solenoids on your video with engine completely out but thought I can get it done with valve cover out only?
Yes you can take the cam solenoids out with the engine still in the bay. You'll be laying on the engine for quite some time, so make sure toy stretch you back before hand!!!
Hi, Im actually about to take the timing chains off to replace them. I put the motor on tdc via crank pulley. I can't really see the shaved tooth on the other side ;since the chain is on. My worry is I can put the tool for phasing the cams in but when it comes to putting the specialty tool on the high pressure fuel pump it is horizontal and not aligned vertical. Does the tool for the high pressure fuel pump have to be installed or aligned properly to take the chains off? Am I doing something wrong ? Your help is greatly appreciated 😅😊 Fyi some of the plastic guides were broken/missing ; not sure if that last part will help explain.
Sounds like your timing is off, but thr front timing mark should match the rear not matter what. You can definitely reset the fuel pump timing even if it's off timing before disassembly. Make sure your front mark is good and cam plate goes in, then dissebmle it all, should be fine. Might have bent valve those if all the guides have exploded.
@@Richie-t5p Happy thanksgiving! Doing a leak down test will be the easiest way to determine if you have a bent valve. Pull the spark plugs, rotate a cylinder to the top, put compressed air in with the tool, if you feel air coming out the exhaust or intake, you have bent valves. With the tool, you can hear the air escape the tail pipe with bent exhaust valves, or the exhaust manifold if disconnected. Or with the MAF off, through intake side. The leak down test tool(google it) threads into the spark plug to pressurize the chamber, and makes it easy to determine, you can usually just hear a whistle. but if you dont have one, just spraying compressed air without a seal into the spark plug bore will make it more challenging to determine. Obviously you want all your timing gear still attached as you are rotating each cylinder to top. You could probably do away with a compression check as well, same idea, but you need the tool for it. but without a starter its just more manual turning of the crank.
Im starting to assemble my 3.6 changing oil pump and chain etc. what lubricant do you apply to all the fasteners while assembling an engine like this? Thanks
Friend my Cayenne 3.2 with 170,000 Ml. It presents an irregular misfire in some cylinders, I have already spent a lot of money and I only have to check the times. Do you think that the cam sensor can cause this failure? thank you.
I don’t think it’s a cam sensor… but scanning the ECU with a scanner should pull the code for any faulty sensor, or off time chain/gear. The fact that it’s irregular makes me this it’s not a skipped chain or timing chain related. I would do a compression test, to make sure the valves are all intact. One of my valves started to errode away cause irregular misfires, after a while permanent misfires…
Hello, nice video with alot of great info 😀 Im going to change timing chain on my Passat R36. Im also want to change the oilpump, does the upgraded oilpump and upgraded gears in this video fit my BWS R36? Do you have the partcodes for this oilpump and gears?
Cant quite confirm if it will fit the BWS engine, but it looks like it will. 03H115105L for the pump and 03H109569A for the gear and N10203803 for the bolt. Kit from ecs here: www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/oil-pump/03h115105hkt/ It doesnt say it fits the Cayenne, but sometimes they lack all the model cross references, ie the BWS. Will update the description with the information.
@@SJAR36 no i did not. they rarely fail. If your little screen is missing in that oval orange washer, then most likely its in the adjusters. they can be disassembled to clean out and check for wear if needed.
Hi there, did you apply the sealant in btw the 2 covers, where the head gasket is? Also, did you immediately install the covers or waited some time for the sealant to get settled? I'm supper nervous about applying the sealant. Thanks
Hey just re-read your question, i did NOT apply sealant where it mated to the head gasket the head gasket will provide that seal. You want to tighten those bolts to the head first then all the ones to the block, in multiple stages obviously.
I’m doing at the moment but when I turn the engine 2 rotations the balancer and fuel pump is not align, but if I do 2 more rotations in total is 4 rotations to make all the marks align is that correct?
Seems like it should be fine. The balancer and fuel pump are two different chains, so the colored links will go out of sync like in the video and will eventually resend.
Driver side under the oil cooler/engine bracket. Not very easy to access. There is a cable whip with a grey connector on it that you should be able to follow, easiest to see it from under the car.
I have a 3.6 cc that has a little bit of rattle at startup but it goes away after a few seconds, it was recommended that I replace the upper tensioner bolt before I did anything else. Can I remove and replace this bolt without touching anything else or effecting the timing? Thank you.
@@PBGarage it went easy, replaced the bolt, but it did not fix the issue. Relatively loud rattle for a few seconds that disappears after what I assume is oil circulation quieting it down. Honestly not sure what it is because I know chain noise is usually a constant.
The deep intake runners are pretty hard to clean, impossible with pick tools. The short runners are easy access. With the head off, I was able to remove the valves, clean and lap it all.
I ordered another exhaust cam if it line up the same I guess how that particular engine is if it's off by a teeth 🤷🏾♂️every thing new ill let you know the outcome 💪🏾
A cam phaser would never cause low compression on a cylinder or a bank. From min to max degree, they will always maintain compression. The timing chain would have to jump a tooth to that phaser gear. Which would cause that whole bank to be out of time/potentially leaving valves open longer. But this in an interference motor, if jumping teeth happened, you might have other issues, ie: bent valves
I got a 2016 Porsche with this 3.6 in it. Had a misfire on 3 with 96 k on it. We did the valve cover for the pcv. Put it all back together, and it ran fine, about 7 days later comes back with a misfire on 3. Ended up do a leak down and 3 had no compression, removed valve cover and find one f the intake valve springs on 3 broken, and it appears not to come up as far as the other, so I’m suspecting bent. At first I tried to take the backside of the engine apart, and that was tough, after 3 hours I decided to just pull it/drop it. That only took like 2 hours. Once I had it out I set it to top dead center by the crank pulleys notch and put the plate in the cams. An I noticed the crank can move like 3 teeth before the cam chain is engaged. That a lot of slop, I’ll see on Monday when I remove the top chain what’s up, and I’ll post back on it. Thx for video, not a lot of info on this engine.
Was this a Cayenne? I have one in my bay right now that needs the rear upper timing cover replaced. I've go intake and valve cover off already to replace that gasket. Turns out it's likely the timing cover. Should I just save my time and drop the powertrain? It's kind of a hassle working blind and up against the firewall.
@@edward1927 yeah in the end, and for a job u know is done right, drop it. It only takes 45 mins. There’s a vacuum pump, mechanical runs off of a cog tha is part of the upper chain, on the back that’s a pain. Only rotate the engine in a clockwise manner, and only when the chains are on. There’s a dot on the cog, line that up, I think 12 o’clock… check I’ dont remember, and that will make putting the high pressure fuel back on easier, it’s ran off an eccentric on that cog and they said something about timing the high pressure fuel pump, so I lined it all back up. And you will be able to fully assemble everything, valve cover and intake while it’s down. I made a mistake when I did my valve cover. I put rtv on the cracks the night before and in morning put valve cover on, and it leaked so I had to redo that part. Should of been wet. But it all went good in the end. That slop I was talking about in my comment came when the guy I had turning the crank wiggled it back and forth and that is a no no. I did the head too on that one and u have to set the cams in place and they can’t move till all chains are on. The valves will hit each other. Good luck
@@edward1927 Yes, this video was a 3.6 from a Porsche Cayenne. The rear upper cover can be re/re with the powertrain left in the bay. Its tight, you are working blind, but doable. I am used to working by feel and not actually looking at what bolts are being worked.
Hi there, first of all great video. I have one question on the timing. I made 2 full rotations everything lines up but the exhaust cam. The timing on the sprocket of that cam lines up perfect. Is this because there is no oil in the system yet? Or do I have to do something about it? Thank you for your answer.
@@PBGarage thank you for your fast answer. I will do it over again when I get home. I had turned the camshaft toothed pully to the right and the other one does this a little bit.
Awesome video! Just what I was looking for. Got a 3.2 with Cam deviations of -12 and -10...does that mean timing chain needs to be replaced? Most I have seen Bank 1 is like -12, but Bank 2 is lower, so I wasn't expecting mine to both be similar numbers. Still I'm pretty sure anything over +/-6 means timing needs done. Is the 3.2 the same exact procedure as the 3.6? Thanks!
Hey not sure what tolerances are allowed, but they should be similar. The 3.2 is very similar to the 3.6, nearly identical. I believe the 3.2 does not have two came adjusters, just one, and the HPFP is a slightly different arrangment.
@@PBGarage also there is one strange diffirent on chain. you dont have a mark on hpfp but on my chain i have a yellow mark for hpfp.. maybe my chain is diffrent than you. also your oil gear is one piece mine 2 piece.. something is so wrong on mine..
@@kepaze As long as you have HPFP holding the lobe, and the chain is tight, then it will be fine. I should have counted the links from the 3 copper links to the 12 oclock HPFP lobe. g28/g300 could be just a bad cam sensor.
Exhaust cam always shift back a little, and chain lines up but has a lil slack in middle exhaust cam kicks back with tension with both locked . I tried back & forth the intake ends up behind a teeth. Do you think it might be a bad exhaust it has a little movement it locks and it move when I Tighten the tension or do you think some engines are like that 🤔
The parts aren’t that expensive specifically for the job, but there are a lot of ‘while you’re in there’ option that inflate the overall cost. Labour is pretty extensive too. Shop rates and estimated hours will vary shop from shop, but here locally at an Indy shop is probably 6,000CAD for bare minimum to 9,000 for all the while your in there. Porsche dealer is easy 12k+ for minimum.
hello New Subscriber Just Found Your Channel I Also Have 2014 Touareg 3.6 Vr6 I think is Same engine Like this One I have Question can i remove Engine Without Droping transmission And Subframe i Remove front bumper and Radiators thanks ?
You can do it without dropping the Trans, or subframe. Just the front comes off is all. There is plenty of room to get bell housing bolts from under the car. I don't even think I jacked up the truck.
The VR6 changed in Cayenne in 2014, I do not know what they changed exactly, but I would imagine anything earlier is not compatible. Not sure if they used 2014+ motors in VWs and Audis like its predecessor.
They would start to rattle at start up and or potentially throw a timing related code. It would most likely be the guides that are worn as well, not so much the chains. They do stretch a bit, but would picked up by all the tensioners.
Hi mate, just subscribed to your channel because of this video. I have 1 question, do you think that this is the easiest way to change the timing chain by removing the whole front and than take the engine out, or maybe dropping the transmission along with the engine and subframe? I'm getting ready to change the timing chain, but still researching the easiest way to make an access to the timing chain. How much time it took you to get the engine out by this way? I've seen 1 video the guy dropped the transmission only without removing the engine from the bay and changed the chain with engine in tacked, that was Touareg 3.2 tho. Cheers
Hello, that is some what subjective in terms of removal. In my opinion, without a car hoist removing the front bumper, rad support and pulling then engine only is the quickest way without a hoist. It is easy to disconnect the transmission from the engine with everything in the SUV. A second set of hands is needed to put it back in for sure. Then you can tackle everything timing related on a bench, rather than on your back in the drive way. On a hoist and keeping the engine in the car, dropping the transmission only, is still extremely tight between the back of the head and fire wall, makes it less than ideal in my opinion, but doable.
Hi great video, I've got a 2008 3.6 cayenne with only 71k on it, had it 5 years from 51k no issues up until now, now running lumpy showing P0017 also showed P0014 briefly once before it cleared and didn't come back, after my usual garage replacing the cam sensor at my request the problem is still there, my usual garage has mentioned cam chain stretch but no rattling or noise whatsoever going to a specialist tomorrow for a diagnostic using Durametric scan tool and second opinion (recommended by first garage) after seeing all that work and parts im now feeling sick 🤮 still hoping its just a crank sensor........ Cars only on 71k fsh and been really looked after 😡😡😡😡
Could be a number of things. Usually VCDS should be able to pin point a sensor, ie crank or cam sensor, or vvt solenoid, crank sensor is not fun to get at! I would also get a compression test performed, for peace of mind, as that is what started my whole ordeal was a burnt exhaust valve and had zero PSI in the affected cylinder. Chains dont stretch that much to throw timing off, that is why there are tensioners to pick up on the slack as it stretches. There is a tiny screen in the cam adjuster bridge that can dislodge and jam your one of the cam phasers, if all else fails, that is probably it.
Hi thanks for replying, only just seen your reply, first specialist only told me what i already knew but rebooked 6 weeks further on,,,,,, going to another specialist soon,..... I'll post when i know 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
Hi, Did this on 2007 Audi Q7..when copper links are aligned had some sluck on top and left side guide like in your video When engine rotated few times around, back od the cam shafts want accept alignment tool. Trired going extra teeth on oil sprocket to loose slack but it is to much. That helps keeping camshaft aligned but crunk is out slightly. Any inputs would be gretly appreciated. Thanks, bellow is video of my chain and timing marks. 26:1226:12 ruclips.net/user/shortsVwR9zcQy4UI?feature=share3
In your video, everything looks properly aligned. If the crank is slightly out, it should be fine, mine was as well, which you can see in my video, just slightly. It will not be perfect. I was surprised that my cam alignment tool went in so easy, as sometimes things are off just a bit.
In the second video you can see HP fuel pump sprocket and amount of slack in chain. Since exhaust sprocket is locked and oil pump sprocket can not move without changing timing on crank shaft, there is no way to loose slack. I adjusted oil pump sprocket to loose slack and crank and cams are spot on but having code P0366 for exhaust camshaft.
Put those parts on the shelf of experience. I always tell my customers who love to say it's ONLY. Well if it's only, there are the tools start working, if it turns out to be ONLY, I'll pay you. Cheers.
LMFAO.... I dropped the triple square M8 down the back while replacing the cam sensor. I was planning on selling my Audi Q7 after replacing the guides because they were noisey....... NOW its an Engine out job and i dont have a lift. I went from having a $7K SUV to calling, and PAYING, a scrap yard to pick it up.
ha I was sooooooo close to calling a scrap yard to pick it up throughout all this. But muscled through it. Didnt make money for sure but recovered some.
I bought a new 2016 cayenne with this engine. I knew the engine was sourced from VW. After driving it for 6 months, I realized the timing chain was in the back of engine. What a dumb design! I then traded in for a cayenne S asap! Never buy a VW or Audi again!
@@PBGarage it was the only reason. Well also someone scratched the front fender and put a door ding on the back door. Couldn’t stand it. The Porsche dealer had a 9k mile, CPO, cayenne S with a real Porsche engine, 120 more hp, and more options. I did have to pay more but got a longer warranty because it was a CPO. I learned my lesson that time, pay a little more and get what you really want.
![FULL ENGINE BUILD Porsche V8 Cayenne - Start to Finish [4K] | Relaxing | Aartal Sportwagen](/img/1.gif)
Great video!
Has helped me immensely while performing this repair on a 2007 Touareg 3.6L BHK.
One small note I’d like to make clear for anybody using this video as a guide for their repair. You must turn the crankshaft 4 times to completely line-up ALL of the timing marks. The crankshaft and camshafts will line up every 2 revolutions, but the high pressure fuel pump gear and oil pump gear will line up every 4 revolutions. If you slow this video down you can see this.
Not trying to be nit-picky, just gave myself a mini heart attack after turning only 2 revolutions and noticed the fuel pump gear and oil pump gear not lining up.
Thank you for the tip, we will add this to the notes for the video. Happy to hear the video helped out.
I have since finished this repair and would like to offer your viewers a few pointers.
1 - my crankshaft shaved off tooth was EXACTLY lined up, the camshaft locking tool installed, and all copper links perfectly placed on the oil pump gear / camshaft adjuster timing marks. I still had some slack on the non-tensioned side of the chain (like you see in this video). I installed the timing chain this way and the engine runs perfectly / does not set any timing correlation codes.
2 - after installing the timing chain, removing the camshaft locking tool, and rotating the engine 4 revolutions (to line all timing marks back up), I noticed that to get the camshaft locking tool back into place I had to turn the crankshaft about 1/3 to 1/2 a tooth past the "exactly" lined up position, and even then I had to slightly rotate each camshaft with a wrench to get the camshaft tool into place. I probably turned the engine over 40 times by hand to confirm no interference and each time the marks lined up just very slightly off by eye.
3 - there are exactly 13 links *between* the oil pump timing mark and the high pressure fuel pump gear, 22 links *between* the oil pump mark and the intake timing mark, and 16 rollers (not links, rollers) between the intake timing mark and the exhaust timing mark
Do like the way you explain in detail and not skip all over the video. Awesome work 👍🏼
Thank you, appreciate the feedback!
Hello man, u saved my life !!!! My friend asked me if i Can replacement his timming chain superb 3.6, i said fine, i have servise manuál but still been off about what is going on.. now when i found your video i Can do it izi pizi ❤❤❤
Ha wish I could help but sooo back logged.
@@PBGaragei have question about variators,, you moved with him to left, this mine are like locked, i Can move with him but really little. Thats mean they are bad right?? Owner dont want buy new or used because 1 variator cost 730€ fór both it is around 1500 euros and used are selling for 500-800€ .. now i dont know what to do, if car will running smoothly when they are not mooving.
@@PBGarage of course u help me a lot with this tutorial.. :)
I'm about to do this on my cc and was a bit hesitant until I saw this. I've done it on a 2.8 and thought it would be a lot more complex with the high pressure pump and cam adjusters. Thanks!!
Thanks! Good luck with the project!
Piece of cake 😎✌️✌️
Great video man. I've got a 3.6 in my garage w the timing kit, just need to get around to it. Need to decide on what to put it in!
Probably a B5.
Thanks, your presentation was very well detailed. Nice job😎
Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you! I own a R36 and also 3,2L FSI. The R got new chains this Summer after about 100k kilometers. The 3,2 will be my first Chain Change for me 😎
Hey best of luck on your timing chain project! Take you time and ask questions!
BEST VIDEO. EVER. WAW. SUPER. AWESOME. TNKS. SIR. AND. BLESSED. BE😇
Awesome thanks for the praise!
Great video! Thank you for sharing. One thing I noticed that had me concern at first was that when I did the two rotations of the crank shaft my marks didn’t line up, but after I watched the crank you actually rotated it 4 times. I rotated it two more time and it all lined up. So maybe you meant to say 4 instead of two? Thanks again!
Hey thanks for the feedback, you are correct, I say two but do four. It should still align with either though, surprised it didn't. Hope the rest of the project goes well for you! Keep us posted how it goes.
My old Passat WVWCU73C86P166850, 2006, back in 2007 I believe it was I had the issue of the bolt of the oil pump come loose or sheering don’t know what actually happened, but VW Naples repaired this issue then as car was still under warranty. I think it had like 7,000 miles on it. A while back, I put car in storage as it was throwing some strange codes, referring to timing and I did not have time to take a look. Decided to stake car apart 240,000 Miles to change timing chain, and upon opening engine chain cover, I noticed the bold of the oil pump was completely loose and top sprocket was almost about to come loose from the bottom one.
As this repair was done so many years ago, and it happened again (yes 230,000 miles later) is there a new fix for this issue? I saw in your video, that there is a newer oil pump which uses a larger bolt, and the two gears are combined are being installed, but do they work on this engine, or are there other part numbers and will correct this problem?
The part numbers I found where:
03H115105L Revised oil pump
03H109569A One piece gear
N10203803 M12 bolt for revised pump
It would appear that is a BLV engine, same as in the video, is it a 3.6 direct injection? If so, then those parts should do thr trick.
Great video! I have a Touareg with the V6 3.6 that needs new chains and guides. Did you video the steps for actually removing the the engine from the car and transfer case?
Thanks! No I didn’t unfortunately. After doing a bunch of VAG product, it wasn’t all that bad. Lots of room with the vr6 in that engine bay
Amazing Video Brother! I do have a question if you could help me? Audi q7 3.6 2009 recently had several misfires and also triggered p0014 camshaft solenoid VVT. You think it’s possible for me to take a look at camshaft solenoid on the back of the engine with just taking out valve cover exposing camshafts instead of completely taking out engine? I saw the solenoids on your video with engine completely out but thought I can get it done with valve cover out only?
Yes you can take the cam solenoids out with the engine still in the bay. You'll be laying on the engine for quite some time, so make sure toy stretch you back before hand!!!
Thank you so much for the quick reply, I now know what I’ll be doing with the car. You sir earned a subscriber!
Hi, Im actually about to take the timing chains off to replace them. I put the motor on tdc via crank pulley. I can't really see the shaved tooth on the other side ;since the chain is on. My worry is I can put the tool for phasing the cams in but when it comes to putting the specialty tool on the high pressure fuel pump it is horizontal and not aligned vertical. Does the tool for the high pressure fuel pump have to be installed or aligned properly to take the chains off? Am I doing something wrong ? Your help is greatly appreciated 😅😊 Fyi some of the plastic guides were broken/missing ; not sure if that last part will help explain.
Sounds like your timing is off, but thr front timing mark should match the rear not matter what. You can definitely reset the fuel pump timing even if it's off timing before disassembly. Make sure your front mark is good and cam plate goes in, then dissebmle it all, should be fine. Might have bent valve those if all the guides have exploded.
@PBGarage any tips on how to check for bent valves? Thanks much, you've been a huge help!
Happy Thanksgiving!
@@Richie-t5p Happy thanksgiving! Doing a leak down test will be the easiest way to determine if you have a bent valve. Pull the spark plugs, rotate a cylinder to the top, put compressed air in with the tool, if you feel air coming out the exhaust or intake, you have bent valves. With the tool, you can hear the air escape the tail pipe with bent exhaust valves, or the exhaust manifold if disconnected. Or with the MAF off, through intake side. The leak down test tool(google it) threads into the spark plug to pressurize the chamber, and makes it easy to determine, you can usually just hear a whistle. but if you dont have one, just spraying compressed air without a seal into the spark plug bore will make it more challenging to determine. Obviously you want all your timing gear still attached as you are rotating each cylinder to top. You could probably do away with a compression check as well, same idea, but you need the tool for it. but without a starter its just more manual turning of the crank.
Im starting to assemble my 3.6 changing oil pump and chain etc. what lubricant do you apply to all the fasteners while assembling an engine like this? Thanks
I used wd40 simply for the ease with spray application. You can use motor oil too. Good luck with the project
Friend my Cayenne 3.2 with 170,000 Ml. It presents an irregular misfire in some cylinders, I have already spent a lot of money and I only have to check the times. Do you think that the cam sensor can cause this failure? thank you.
I don’t think it’s a cam sensor… but scanning the ECU with a scanner should pull the code for any faulty sensor, or off time chain/gear. The fact that it’s irregular makes me this it’s not a skipped chain or timing chain related. I would do a compression test, to make sure the valves are all intact. One of my valves started to errode away cause irregular misfires, after a while permanent misfires…
Hello, nice video with alot of great info 😀
Im going to change timing chain on my Passat R36. Im also want to change the oilpump, does the upgraded oilpump and upgraded gears in this video fit my BWS R36?
Do you have the partcodes for this oilpump and gears?
Cant quite confirm if it will fit the BWS engine, but it looks like it will. 03H115105L for the pump and 03H109569A for the gear and N10203803 for the bolt. Kit from ecs here: www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/oil-pump/03h115105hkt/
It doesnt say it fits the Cayenne, but sometimes they lack all the model cross references, ie the BWS.
Will update the description with the information.
@@PBGarage Thank you so much for the quick reply🤩
@@PBGarage I think and hope it will fit 😁
@@PBGarage Did you replace 2 gears on top? (Intake cam and exhaust cam?)
@@SJAR36 no i did not. they rarely fail. If your little screen is missing in that oval orange washer, then most likely its in the adjusters. they can be disassembled to clean out and check for wear if needed.
Hi there, did you apply the sealant in btw the 2 covers, where the head gasket is? Also, did you immediately install the covers or waited some time for the sealant to get settled? I'm supper nervous about applying the sealant. Thanks
Sealant is needed. Depends on the sealant you use, it will tell you if yoy need to wait between steps of installing and final torque.
Hey just re-read your question, i did NOT apply sealant where it mated to the head gasket the head gasket will provide that seal. You want to tighten those bolts to the head first then all the ones to the block, in multiple stages obviously.
Tolle Vorführung !
🥰🥰🥰💖💞💞💖🥰🥰🥰
I’m doing at the moment but when I turn the engine 2 rotations the balancer and fuel pump is not align, but if I do 2 more rotations in total is 4 rotations to make all the marks align is that correct?
Seems like it should be fine. The balancer and fuel pump are two different chains, so the colored links will go out of sync like in the video and will eventually resend.
Could you please tell me where the crankshaft position sensor is located on the 3.6
Driver side under the oil cooler/engine bracket. Not very easy to access. There is a cable whip with a grey connector on it that you should be able to follow, easiest to see it from under the car.
@@PBGarage thanks!!!
very good video
Thank you!
I have a 3.6 cc that has a little bit of rattle at startup but it goes away after a few seconds, it was recommended that I replace the upper tensioner bolt before I did anything else. Can I remove and replace this bolt without touching anything else or effecting the timing? Thank you.
Yes that upper tensioner bolt is removable and reinstall or without affecting timing. It is worth trying that one out first.
@@PBGarage awesome thank you for responding!
Let us know how it goes!
@@PBGarage it went easy, replaced the bolt, but it did not fix the issue. Relatively loud rattle for a few seconds that disappears after what I assume is oil circulation quieting it down. Honestly not sure what it is because I know chain noise is usually a constant.
Nice video. Is intake ports hard to clean?
The deep intake runners are pretty hard to clean, impossible with pick tools. The short runners are easy access. With the head off, I was able to remove the valves, clean and lap it all.
I ordered another exhaust cam if it line up the same I guess how that particular engine is if it's off by a teeth 🤷🏾♂️every thing new ill let you know the outcome 💪🏾
Keep us posted on how it works out. You're cam adjusters arent jammed up at all?
I have a 2005 cayenne 3.2 my exhaust cam phaser is not locked would this cause a low or no compression on 1 bank of the engine and a no start
A cam phaser would never cause low compression on a cylinder or a bank. From min to max degree, they will always maintain compression. The timing chain would have to jump a tooth to that phaser gear. Which would cause that whole bank to be out of time/potentially leaving valves open longer. But this in an interference motor, if jumping teeth happened, you might have other issues, ie: bent valves
@@PBGarage ok appreciate it
Wow, that's intense.. Not sure if I can tackle this task.
Just takes a bit of patience and having the right tools and a bit of experience helps too!
I got a 2016 Porsche with this 3.6 in it. Had a misfire on 3 with 96 k on it. We did the valve cover for the pcv. Put it all back together, and it ran fine, about 7 days later comes back with a misfire on 3. Ended up do a leak down and 3 had no compression, removed valve cover and find one f the intake valve springs on 3 broken, and it appears not to come up as far as the other, so I’m suspecting bent. At first I tried to take the backside of the engine apart, and that was tough, after 3 hours I decided to just pull it/drop it. That only took like 2 hours. Once I had it out I set it to top dead center by the crank pulleys notch and put the plate in the cams. An I noticed the crank can move like 3 teeth before the cam chain is engaged. That a lot of slop, I’ll see on Monday when I remove the top chain what’s up, and I’ll post back on it. Thx for video, not a lot of info on this engine.
Good luck with the project! These are great motors when they are running properly!
Was this a Cayenne? I have one in my bay right now that needs the rear upper timing cover replaced. I've go intake and valve cover off already to replace that gasket. Turns out it's likely the timing cover. Should I just save my time and drop the powertrain? It's kind of a hassle working blind and up against the firewall.
@@edward1927 yeah in the end, and for a job u know is done right, drop it. It only takes 45 mins. There’s a vacuum pump, mechanical runs off of a cog tha is part of the upper chain, on the back that’s a pain. Only rotate the engine in a clockwise manner, and only when the chains are on. There’s a dot on the cog, line that up, I think 12 o’clock… check I’ dont remember, and that will make putting the high pressure fuel back on easier, it’s ran off an eccentric on that cog and they said something about timing the high pressure fuel pump, so I lined it all back up. And you will be able to fully assemble everything, valve cover and intake while it’s down. I made a mistake when I did my valve cover. I put rtv on the cracks the night before and in morning put valve cover on, and it leaked so I had to redo that part. Should of been wet. But it all went good in the end. That slop I was talking about in my comment came when the guy I had turning the crank wiggled it back and forth and that is a no no. I did the head too on that one and u have to set the cams in place and they can’t move till all chains are on. The valves will hit each other. Good luck
@@edward1927 Yes, this video was a 3.6 from a Porsche Cayenne. The rear upper cover can be re/re with the powertrain left in the bay. Its tight, you are working blind, but doable. I am used to working by feel and not actually looking at what bolts are being worked.
Have a link to this chain kit. All the 3.6 kits I find are very spendy.
It was from ECS, kit number 03H109465KT3 listed for a VW but the exact same as the porsche 3.6.
i have the 3.6 with low pressure fuel pump which is a little different
Interesting, year make and model?
Hi there, first of all great video.
I have one question on the timing.
I made 2 full rotations everything lines up but the exhaust cam. The timing on the sprocket of that cam lines up perfect.
Is this because there is no oil in the system yet? Or do I have to do something about it?
Thank you for your answer.
Did you pre clock the intake cam like I show in thr video? They should re align
@@PBGarage thank you for your fast answer. I will do it over again when I get home. I had turned the camshaft toothed pully to the right and the other one does this a little bit.
Awesome video! Just what I was looking for. Got a 3.2 with Cam deviations of -12 and -10...does that mean timing chain needs to be replaced? Most I have seen Bank 1 is like -12, but Bank 2 is lower, so I wasn't expecting mine to both be similar numbers. Still I'm pretty sure anything over +/-6 means timing needs done. Is the 3.2 the same exact procedure as the 3.6? Thanks!
Hey not sure what tolerances are allowed, but they should be similar. The 3.2 is very similar to the 3.6, nearly identical. I believe the 3.2 does not have two came adjusters, just one, and the HPFP is a slightly different arrangment.
Thanks my dear falla
You’re welcome!
Do you use a sharpie for the marks ?
They are called paint pens, can get them locally at like Napa, princess auto, harbor, etc or amazom
Did you run perfectly with this timing set?
Yes it did! Sold it since.
@@PBGarage i set my timing but still i have g28/g300 error. i will try to set again with your video. thank you for this detailed video
@@PBGarage also there is one strange diffirent on chain. you dont have a mark on hpfp but on my chain i have a yellow mark for hpfp.. maybe my chain is diffrent than you. also your oil gear is one piece mine 2 piece.. something is so wrong on mine..
@@kepaze As long as you have HPFP holding the lobe, and the chain is tight, then it will be fine. I should have counted the links from the 3 copper links to the 12 oclock HPFP lobe. g28/g300 could be just a bad cam sensor.
Im doing everything like you but exhaust alwas end up a lil off plate want fit & im adjusting it & still ends up the same could you help me out?
How far off is it? If might not always be perfect like mind happen to land.
Like a teeth off and nothings hitting when I turn the engine when I Line exhaust cam up and put the tension in exhaust cam moves back almost a teeth
Exhaust cam always shift back a little, and chain lines up but has a lil slack in middle exhaust cam kicks back with tension with both locked . I tried back & forth the intake ends up behind a teeth. Do you think it might be a bad exhaust it has a little movement it locks and it move when I Tighten the tension or do you think some engines are like that 🤔
How much at a shop would this job cost?
The parts aren’t that expensive specifically for the job, but there are a lot of ‘while you’re in there’ option that inflate the overall cost. Labour is pretty extensive too. Shop rates and estimated hours will vary shop from shop, but here locally at an Indy shop is probably 6,000CAD for bare minimum to 9,000 for all the while your in there. Porsche dealer is easy 12k+ for minimum.
hello New Subscriber Just Found Your Channel I Also Have 2014 Touareg 3.6 Vr6 I think is Same engine Like this One I have Question can i remove Engine Without Droping transmission And Subframe i Remove front bumper and Radiators thanks ?
You can do it without dropping the Trans, or subframe. Just the front comes off is all. There is plenty of room to get bell housing bolts from under the car. I don't even think I jacked up the truck.
❤love it
Any ideas of 3.6 from Touareg will fit 16 cayenne? Can’t find good engine :/
The VR6 changed in Cayenne in 2014, I do not know what they changed exactly, but I would imagine anything earlier is not compatible. Not sure if they used 2014+ motors in VWs and Audis like its predecessor.
how can i know my timing chain need to replace or not ? please teach it to me , thank you !
They would start to rattle at start up and or potentially throw a timing related code. It would most likely be the guides that are worn as well, not so much the chains. They do stretch a bit, but would picked up by all the tensioners.
@@PBGarage very useful to me~ thanks a lot
Hi mate, just subscribed to your channel because of this video. I have 1 question, do you think that this is the easiest way to change the timing chain by removing the whole front and than take the engine out, or maybe dropping the transmission along with the engine and subframe? I'm getting ready to change the timing chain, but still researching the easiest way to make an access to the timing chain. How much time it took you to get the engine out by this way? I've seen 1 video the guy dropped the transmission only without removing the engine from the bay and changed the chain with engine in tacked, that was Touareg 3.2 tho. Cheers
Hello, that is some what subjective in terms of removal. In my opinion, without a car hoist removing the front bumper, rad support and pulling then engine only is the quickest way without a hoist. It is easy to disconnect the transmission from the engine with everything in the SUV. A second set of hands is needed to put it back in for sure. Then you can tackle everything timing related on a bench, rather than on your back in the drive way.
On a hoist and keeping the engine in the car, dropping the transmission only, is still extremely tight between the back of the head and fire wall, makes it less than ideal in my opinion, but doable.
Hi great video, I've got a 2008 3.6 cayenne with only 71k on it, had it 5 years from 51k no issues up until now, now running lumpy showing P0017 also showed P0014 briefly once before it cleared and didn't come back, after my usual garage replacing the cam sensor at my request the problem is still there, my usual garage has mentioned cam chain stretch but no rattling or noise whatsoever going to a specialist tomorrow for a diagnostic using Durametric scan tool and second opinion (recommended by first garage) after seeing all that work and parts im now feeling sick 🤮 still hoping its just a crank sensor........ Cars only on 71k fsh and been really looked after 😡😡😡😡
Could be a number of things. Usually VCDS should be able to pin point a sensor, ie crank or cam sensor, or vvt solenoid, crank sensor is not fun to get at! I would also get a compression test performed, for peace of mind, as that is what started my whole ordeal was a burnt exhaust valve and had zero PSI in the affected cylinder. Chains dont stretch that much to throw timing off, that is why there are tensioners to pick up on the slack as it stretches. There is a tiny screen in the cam adjuster bridge that can dislodge and jam your one of the cam phasers, if all else fails, that is probably it.
Hi thanks for replying, only just seen your reply, first specialist only told me what i already knew but rebooked 6 weeks further on,,,,,, going to another specialist soon,..... I'll post when i know 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
Great veeeeeedia
Thank you!
All week i been trying
Did you recount the links?
And use all new parts and tensioner?
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Thank you!!
Hi, Did this on 2007 Audi Q7..when copper links are aligned had some sluck on top and left side guide like in your video When engine rotated few times around, back od the cam shafts want accept alignment tool. Trired going extra teeth on oil sprocket to loose slack but it is to much. That helps keeping camshaft aligned but crunk is out slightly. Any inputs would be gretly appreciated. Thanks, bellow is video of my chain and timing marks. 26:12 26:12
ruclips.net/user/shortsVwR9zcQy4UI?feature=share3
In your video, everything looks properly aligned. If the crank is slightly out, it should be fine, mine was as well, which you can see in my video, just slightly. It will not be perfect. I was surprised that my cam alignment tool went in so easy, as sometimes things are off just a bit.
The only thing you didnt show in your video was the fuel pump sprocket being located at 12 o'clock.
In the second video you can see HP fuel pump sprocket and amount of slack in chain. Since exhaust sprocket is locked and oil pump sprocket can not move without changing timing on crank shaft, there is no way to loose slack. I adjusted oil pump sprocket to loose slack and crank and cams are spot on but having code P0366 for exhaust camshaft.
Put those parts on the shelf of experience. I always tell my customers who love to say it's ONLY. Well if it's only, there are the tools start working, if it turns out to be ONLY, I'll pay you. Cheers.
Exactly!
LMFAO.... I dropped the triple square M8 down the back while replacing the cam sensor. I was planning on selling my Audi Q7 after replacing the guides because they were noisey....... NOW its an Engine out job and i dont have a lift. I went from having a $7K SUV to calling, and PAYING, a scrap yard to pick it up.
ha I was sooooooo close to calling a scrap yard to pick it up throughout all this. But muscled through it. Didnt make money for sure but recovered some.
I bought a new 2016 cayenne with this engine. I knew the engine was sourced from VW. After driving it for 6 months, I realized the timing chain was in the back of engine. What a dumb design! I then traded in for a cayenne S asap! Never buy a VW or Audi again!
Was there any problem or just didn't like the placement of the chain? One he'll of a reason to trade in if so! Hahah
@@PBGarage it was the only reason. Well also someone scratched the front fender and put a door ding on the back door. Couldn’t stand it. The Porsche dealer had a 9k mile, CPO, cayenne S with a real Porsche engine, 120 more hp, and more options. I did have to pay more but got a longer warranty because it was a CPO. I learned my lesson that time, pay a little more and get what you really want.
Can you reuse your cam sprocket bolts ?
I would not take a chance on it. They are TTY bolts
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Thank you!