Next up for the R32 we will get the head bolted up, and do two timing videos. One with stock chains, and one with HG spacer!!! Also many of you ask about why no upgrade to pistons and rods. GREAT Questions! At some point I have to stop with the car. HPA and I had several long chats about this. They have tons of cars running around with HIGH HP, on stock internals for the R32. The beauty is, they are right, or wrong, and we get to find out. HAHA. Time will tell.
Love the video my brother update btw valve cover gasket went on 2.0 replaced an then replaced the plugs an also the 02 sensors no problems no check engine light hell yeah btw u need to take the new race build to the freedom factory i hear the bald eagles screaming now
Absolutely admire the surgical precision with which you work. This is one of my favorite channels for that very reason. You can tell you have a passion for these cars.
I'm probably about as fluent in the SAAB world as you are with VWs. We recently purchased two VWs with the 2.0T TSI engine (2011 Tiguan and 2013 GLI) so I started following you when the PCV started to go on our GLI. Now I'm deep into this R32 build wanting to find my other half a VR6 Jetta as a project car and show vehicle so thank you for all of the content. You have been a saving grace and an inspiration. You also turned me on to two great VW guys within 30 mins of me in this series as I'm located in Reading PA just outside of Pottstown where you bought the transmission at. Haha small world.
It was really cool seeing my ARP suspicions on VR6 confirmed. I once built a motor where I took on ARP's advice and had my rods resized. Awhile later, I decided to do the 1 out 1 in method, ARP, 40 ftlbs, no resizing. Worked just the same. Also high mileage ring gap. People believe high mileage motors have more ring gap and are better for boost... no no no. These people have never actually measured one. I measured one, 220k miles, well maintained. It came out exactly to what your refreshed block was, 0.13" top ring 0.16" second ring, with some bores having just barley 0.14" on the top ring. Keep up all this awesome content Charles! Looking forward to the w8 tear down!
Just a note that with the engine upside down, the plasti-gauge on the engine side of the journals is redundant. You're measuring a clearance, so the crank is already sitting hard against the engine side bearing surface. The only plasti-gauge indication that will be accurate is on the top side (main cap side) of the bearing journals
This is a fantastic video Charles, thanks so much for putting it together! Stoked to see where this project goes I've been wanting to build a fresh 2.0 PD TDI longblock for a while and this just makes me want to do it even more.
I use arp when I can. But, I'm starting to find that unless the block has enough beef for the increased load it's not necessarily worth the extra cost unless you plan on frequently disassembling the engine. I always use arp for connecting rods. But, for mains and heads I'm not convinced unless you are springing for a stud upgrade.
Many thanks for doing this video and going into depth. 1st time rebuilding my engine, just waiting on the machine shop to finish my block so I'll definitely use this as reference and the shop manual.
Rebuilt my B8 Audi 1.8t engine by following your videos. Onto rebuilding an mk5 r32 motor + turbo and putting into my mk4 :) Waiting in anticipation for the next one Charles. Love the content.
Hell of a job, but this engine will run so well after all that work. One day I'm gonna build my first engine, I'm gonna take real good time to do it. It's gonna be a full winter project!
Hello HumbleMec, a few months ago I built my VW MK3 2.0L and made use of RaceWare studs for the main bearing caps, ARP connecting rod bolts and STD bearings all a round. I was aware of the recommended RaceWare and ARP torque settings but these figures far exceeded VW's torque settings so I decided to totally ignore the aftermarket torque numbers and use only VW's settings. My logic was that if I'm using the same STD bearings all around I know I can't apply exceedingly higher torque numbers because this would deliver clamping forces on bearings not originally designed for. Knowing that my engine worked perfectly fine with VW's original torque settings and engine bearings I opted not to chance it and stick with OEM torque parameters. In the end the engine build has been a total success and engine performance is fantastic only requiring going back to a thinner motor oil to properly lubricate all brand new bearings and cylinder block components. This approach saved me a ton of time and unnecessary expenditures on tools and parts.... you can't go wrong with proven engine torque settings.
good note on the align hone part, it is also nice to have it done to also ensure the bores are still in alignment. a used block can potentially shift around over time with use so the crank can potentially spin better and have more consistent clearance from journal to journal if an align hone has been performed.
What’s up chuck? Glad your working on that thing and not me. That plastic gauge stuff has been around a long time handy stuff to use.waste of time to use on a VW it’s a lick it and stick it type engine. Of course if your going to blow it and your trying to learn the neophytes and you be the one knowing it’s okay to go thru the extra trouble. Good video chuck!
Hello HumbleMechanic. Certainly you professional. Also you can lubricate the bolt head or nut in contact point with cylinder block . This is facilitate slip when the threaded joint tightened.Only way you will get accuracy when the threaded joint is tightened dynamometric wrench with the lowest resistance.
Fantastic video. Oh I love watching the pistons go up and down too. Very satisfying. Something you don't get to see once it's all back together. Love your work my man👍
Strange video. A informative porn. 🤔 I see what you did here and I am fascinated. I love your style and your videos. You are one of the PQ34 Gurus🤘 Keep up the awesome work! Thank you a lot from Germany.👍
about to rebuild my first engine, n/a to turbo conversion for a vg, super intimidating for me but that’s what makes the outcome even more interesting and fun , thank for the video, definitely contributed to my confidence
Great seeing you assemble my favorite engine of all time, the VR6. I can't wait for the first crank. Great job Charles! ;) You're truly an encyclopedia.
As always, awesome video. Im not that far for my build yet, but will definitely reference this when i get to this point. Thank you bearded bandit, you're the man
On the Main bearings where the thrust washers are apart of the main bearing my old machine shop didn't like them for manual transmission cars. They preferred the separate thrust washers because this allows for another surface for oil to go and absorb some of the thrust.
Interesting video, but I have a query about the big end cap bolts. I would have though that releasing the stretch bolts to check the plastigauge would have the potential to give a slightly different bolt length, meaning that they would not have the same tension on them if re-torqued to the value calculated on first stretch. Is that not the case?
At operating temperature and the proper tension, the bolts are designed to stretch elastically. Since assembly is at room temperature, are being torqued to spec, and the bolts aren't under any dynamic load there should certainly be no plastic deformation of the metal. (Note that because bolt tension is measured indirectly via torque specs, this is why it's critical that the threads are perfectly clean and the specified lubricant is used.)
What an awesome video Charles! Engine/Transmission disassembly has always been a "fear" of mine because there is so much that you can mess up and I always though things were glass like fragile. Now that I'm starting to do this stuff, you see that they are but aren't that fragile, just be sure to use some "soapy wooder".
@@HumbleMechanic I think everyone knows that distinct gut wrenching feeling when it's about to happen. The best part is hearing the torque wrench finally click knowing it's done correctly.
Nice techniques. The first time I've seen someone de-bur the inside edges of pistons rings to prevent them nicking the ring lands. I've found that ATF works to clean/lift honing debris from cylinder bores nicely, if you cant get marvel mystery oil.
wow, im tired and confused just by watching! how can you do it and still manage to film in such details and high quality. Thank you for all your efforts
I've never built an engine so maybe stop me, but... I recently learned you want a *slightly* larger ring gap for ring #2 (maybe .001-.002" larger). Manufacturers have started doing this to avoid an increase in compression between the rings, causing a ring land failure - the idea being you're better off potentially having slight blowby. I was curious if this was something you or others were familiar with.
Ring clearance in groove is important as you can get ring flutter if excessive. leads to broken rings. Washing everything? Usually fasteners are torqued with light oil unless manual specifies dry. One thing that is very rarely given in any manual is ring free end gap. It tells you if rings have lost tension through being overheated (usually top ring) You can get low compression and not know why as things look fine' Should have watched a bit longer as I didn't knopw you used assembly lube on bolt threads.
If you measure clearance both under and above the crank, than the total clearance is equal to clearance read under + clearance read above the crank. So in your case where you show 2 smaller than 0.025mm (lets say 0.020mm) your total clearance is 0.04mm
Hey do you have to use plastic gauge and check the crank shaft clearance if your just refreshing the engine , and your using all own stuff..the motor will not be turbocharged it will stay stock oem thanks !
Charles, I've never done a Plastigauge clearance check but simple geometry says that if you use one strip on one side of a bearing, the gauge material will act as a spacer as you wind up the bolts, till you have zero clearance on the other side, and twice the clearance on the gauge side. All things being equal if you use two gauge strips, one on each opposite side the crush forces should balance out and each gauge will tell you the gap on their respective sides of the bearing. I'd appreciate your response to this because I have my own R32 rebuild coming up and I am using your guidance.
Audi performance and racing, APR has very good stuff that is researched in cooperation with the VAG factory wizards. Downside is that there is relatively few APR parts on the market and they´d rather also build the cars in APR certified garages so that´s possibly not the best trademark for a DIY guy. I ran with OEM clutch and cam timing belt 10 years and 100 000 Miles with mostly just the basic maintenance like regular oil change with the stage 1 + that is 450 to 480 Nm and from 330 to 370 horse power differing on the fuel and air temp etc. Do a 2.0 FSI/TFSI engine next please.
Hi Charles .I enjoyed every minute of this rebuild . I have had only 4 cars in my life , all VW’s 1958 Bug 1969 Bug 1980 Rabbit Diesel . & 1992 Diesel Golf . The Rabbit and Golf still on the road . I rebuilt the Golf motor , it has no thrust washers but you can change # 3 crank bearing to correct end play , I’m not a pro tec , but my question to you is there a lot of motor ‘s with out thrust bearings? I love the efficiency of your work and your fast and to the point thanks AL Greetings from Canada 🇨🇦🇺🇸😙🚗
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Next up for the R32 we will get the head bolted up, and do two timing videos. One with stock chains, and one with HG spacer!!! Also many of you ask about why no upgrade to pistons and rods. GREAT Questions! At some point I have to stop with the car. HPA and I had several long chats about this. They have tons of cars running around with HIGH HP, on stock internals for the R32. The beauty is, they are right, or wrong, and we get to find out. HAHA. Time will tell.
BIG THANK YOU FOR THIS INFORMATIVE CLIP.
HPA?
@@notsponsored103 HPA Motorsports - VW/Audi performance tuning company
Love the video my brother update btw valve cover gasket went on 2.0 replaced an then replaced the plugs an also the 02 sensors no problems no check engine light hell yeah btw u need to take the new race build to the freedom factory i hear the bald eagles screaming now
An also in the sprit of cleetus can that thang do a burnout 🔥
Haha soapy woody. Love the Chris fix shout out.
Timestamp??
It happens more than once!
@@HumbleMechanic Ooh
@@UltraGamma25 6:59:59
I don't think it was "soapy woody"
that's a very different thing right there...
Brilliant video! I love watching people disassemble and reassemble engines.
Same man, same. So satisfying.
You and me both my guy...oh, and datgamerboy as well
@@MikeCheckBiloxi me too
Absolutely admire the surgical precision with which you work. This is one of my favorite channels for that very reason. You can tell you have a passion for these cars.
The best thing is how he has everything organized after such a long time, i can't wait for the transmission rebuilt!
Be quiet you idiot.
I'm probably about as fluent in the SAAB world as you are with VWs. We recently purchased two VWs with the 2.0T TSI engine (2011 Tiguan and 2013 GLI) so I started following you when the PCV started to go on our GLI. Now I'm deep into this R32 build wanting to find my other half a VR6 Jetta as a project car and show vehicle so thank you for all of the content. You have been a saving grace and an inspiration. You also turned me on to two great VW guys within 30 mins of me in this series as I'm located in Reading PA just outside of Pottstown where you bought the transmission at. Haha small world.
It was really cool seeing my ARP suspicions on VR6 confirmed. I once built a motor where I took on ARP's advice and had my rods resized. Awhile later, I decided to do the 1 out 1 in method, ARP, 40 ftlbs, no resizing. Worked just the same. Also high mileage ring gap. People believe high mileage motors have more ring gap and are better for boost... no no no. These people have never actually measured one. I measured one, 220k miles, well maintained. It came out exactly to what your refreshed block was, 0.13" top ring 0.16" second ring, with some bores having just barley 0.14" on the top ring. Keep up all this awesome content Charles! Looking forward to the w8 tear down!
Just a note that with the engine upside down, the plasti-gauge on the engine side of the journals is redundant. You're measuring a clearance, so the crank is already sitting hard against the engine side bearing surface. The only plasti-gauge indication that will be accurate is on the top side (main cap side) of the bearing journals
Love the in depth on assembly, great job
Couldn't agree more!!
Whomever disliked this should not be here, because it was an awesome video on engine building.
Majority of Dislikes are done by bots, dude :)
Bro,
that was absolutely therapeutic.
Engine loving - is the best kind of love making.
WELL DONE !!!!!
Ok, I've never watched an engine build before and you sir, had my attention from start to finish. Time to start looking for a R32 to rebuild.
This is what people should watch in mechanic classes
Am new in the industry and i learn something new everytime from you much love all the way from Namibia
Man, Charles, you are the VR6 guru! The best guide ever.
This is a fantastic video Charles, thanks so much for putting it together! Stoked to see where this project goes
I've been wanting to build a fresh 2.0 PD TDI longblock for a while and this just makes me want to do it even more.
I use arp when I can. But, I'm starting to find that unless the block has enough beef for the increased load it's not necessarily worth the extra cost unless you plan on frequently disassembling the engine. I always use arp for connecting rods. But, for mains and heads I'm not convinced unless you are springing for a stud upgrade.
Exactly!!! HPA runs stock! They said they never had one fail. Haha next time I’ll be doing stock for sure
Cleaning off the plastiguage just gives you that warm and fuzzy satisfied feeling of a clean engine
Many thanks for doing this video and going into depth. 1st time rebuilding my engine, just waiting on the machine shop to finish my block so I'll definitely use this as reference and the shop manual.
I’ve been hesitant about building my 24v vr6 because I’m afraid I won’t get it back together. This video is so easy to follow! Thanks for posting 😁
Rebuilt my B8 Audi 1.8t engine by following your videos. Onto rebuilding an mk5 r32 motor + turbo and putting into my mk4 :) Waiting in anticipation for the next one Charles. Love the content.
So much satisfaction putting your own engine together. I’m in the process of building my own vr right now.
@36:30 I love seeing the pistons go up and down as well. I love seeing how an engine works.
Hell of a job, but this engine will run so well after all that work. One day I'm gonna build my first engine, I'm gonna take real good time to do it. It's gonna be a full winter project!
Such valuable info. Again, so much kudos for our humble mechanic!!! These details are what make an engine run so excellent.
This is really in depth. I love it. Thanks Charles.
Hello HumbleMec, a few months ago I built my VW MK3 2.0L and made use of RaceWare studs for the main bearing caps, ARP connecting rod bolts and STD bearings all a round. I was aware of the recommended RaceWare and ARP torque settings but these figures far exceeded VW's torque settings so I decided to totally ignore the aftermarket torque numbers and use only VW's settings. My logic was that if I'm using the same STD bearings all around I know I can't apply exceedingly higher torque numbers because this would deliver clamping forces on bearings not originally designed for. Knowing that my engine worked perfectly fine with VW's original torque settings and engine bearings I opted not to chance it and stick with OEM torque parameters. In the end the engine build has been a total success and engine performance is fantastic only requiring going back to a thinner motor oil to properly lubricate all brand new bearings and cylinder block components. This approach saved me a ton of time and unnecessary expenditures on tools and parts.... you can't go wrong with proven engine torque settings.
Great use of the word "overcomeable".
The perfect video for reminding you why you spent all that money paying somebody else to do this. 😆
good note on the align hone part, it is also nice to have it done to also ensure the bores are still in alignment. a used block can potentially shift around over time with use so the crank can potentially spin better and have more consistent clearance from journal to journal if an align hone has been performed.
i wish all workshop even the dealer are working the same like you in this much details
What’s up chuck? Glad your working on that thing and not me. That plastic gauge stuff has been around a long time handy stuff to use.waste of time to use on a VW it’s a lick it and stick it type engine. Of course if your going to blow it and your trying to learn the neophytes and you be the one knowing it’s okay to go thru the extra trouble. Good video chuck!
My early afternoon tasty coffee and an engine build video!
YES!!!
8 p.m. East L.A. beers and watch.
@@jennifurzoe1302 ha ha!
Nice work Charles! Great to see that 120XP Torque Wrench at work! #GEARWRENCH #ForgeAhead
Automotive Student right here ! Fastest like ever !
36:28 - Watching the pistons do their thing is mesmerizing.
I watched that so many times. HAHA
Its kind of surprising how many stock components can be kept on this engine while still handling a decent amount of power
Yep awesome I think
and also suprising how expensive aftermarket components are
Hello HumbleMechanic. Certainly you professional. Also you can lubricate the bolt head or nut in contact point with cylinder block . This is facilitate slip when the threaded joint tightened.Only way you will get accuracy when the threaded joint is tightened dynamometric wrench with the lowest resistance.
Love the Frog Tape on the engine block. Also a fan of Marvel Mystery oil. It smells vaguely of mint or menthol -- possibly methyl salicylate.
Fantastic video. Oh I love watching the pistons go up and down too. Very satisfying. Something you don't get to see once it's all back together. Love your work my man👍
Just pouring your love into that engine. Love it.
Strange video. A informative porn. 🤔 I see what you did here and I am fascinated.
I love your style and your videos. You are one of the PQ34 Gurus🤘 Keep up the awesome work! Thank you a lot from Germany.👍
Dude you the GOAT I will have beginning to end step by step how to boost my r32 properly and assembling bottom end my self
Very impressed with your meticulous attention to detail, Mr. Sanville. Well done!
about to rebuild my first engine, n/a to turbo conversion for a vg, super intimidating for me but that’s what makes the outcome even more interesting and fun , thank for the video, definitely contributed to my confidence
Excellent video Charles, reinforcing clean clean & clean again. Australian fan.
Great seeing you assemble my favorite engine of all time, the VR6. I can't wait for the first crank.
Great job Charles! ;)
You're truly an encyclopedia.
He build engines almost exactly like I do down to the same assembly lube. Great video!
i have fun watching you build the engine ❤
Engines are just awesome.
Wow, this is pure ASMR watch lol. I love it the build! Great job, Charles!
Dude. Stubby ratchets are BOSS!! 🤘🏻😎😎
Absolutely the best. Thank you for the full walkthrough con this
As always, awesome video. Im not that far for my build yet, but will definitely reference this when i get to this point. Thank you bearded bandit, you're the man
Are the factory crank bolts stretch bolts? If so, would you need to buy an extra set of bolts if you wanted to check oil clearances?
On the Main bearings where the thrust washers are apart of the main bearing my old machine shop didn't like them for manual transmission cars. They preferred the separate thrust washers because this allows for another surface for oil to go and absorb some of the thrust.
Masterclass in attention to detail!
Awesome work, Charles! 💪🏻👌🏻
This quality of video reminds me of how do they do it on Discovery channel. Great stuff.
Thank you!
Interesting video, but I have a query about the big end cap bolts. I would have though that releasing the stretch bolts to check the plastigauge would have the potential to give a slightly different bolt length, meaning that they would not have the same tension on them if re-torqued to the value calculated on first stretch. Is that not the case?
At operating temperature and the proper tension, the bolts are designed to stretch elastically. Since assembly is at room temperature, are being torqued to spec, and the bolts aren't under any dynamic load there should certainly be no plastic deformation of the metal. (Note that because bolt tension is measured indirectly via torque specs, this is why it's critical that the threads are perfectly clean and the specified lubricant is used.)
What an awesome video Charles! Engine/Transmission disassembly has always been a "fear" of mine because there is so much that you can mess up and I always though things were glass like fragile. Now that I'm starting to do this stuff, you see that they are but aren't that fragile, just be sure to use some "soapy wooder".
LOL it's all about knowing what can be fragile, and what is okay to force. Sadly you usually find out when you break it. HAHA
@@HumbleMechanic I think everyone knows that distinct gut wrenching feeling when it's about to happen. The best part is hearing the torque wrench finally click knowing it's done correctly.
Nice techniques. The first time I've seen someone de-bur the inside edges of pistons rings to prevent them nicking the ring lands. I've found that ATF works to clean/lift honing debris from cylinder bores nicely, if you cant get marvel mystery oil.
never get enough of these videos
Man.. I thought you were MIA.. it's nice to see you back!
Thanks! Ive been working so much and im still behind. HAHAH TONS of behind the scenes stuff going on. BUT it will be worth it
A good bottom end is very important not just on engines :) . Fantastic video .
Hahahha yesss
Very smooth explanation, good video. Now I want to rebuild an engine, too. Should better not 😅 but it looks so "easy" when you do it. Cheers! 🤘
wow, im tired and confused just by watching! how can you do it and still manage to film in such details and high quality. Thank you for all your efforts
I've never built an engine so maybe stop me, but...
I recently learned you want a *slightly* larger ring gap for ring #2 (maybe .001-.002" larger). Manufacturers have started doing this to avoid an increase in compression between the rings, causing a ring land failure - the idea being you're better off potentially having slight blowby.
I was curious if this was something you or others were familiar with.
love to watch your engine assemblies, always very informative
Great video as always man.
greetings from Israel
RAZOR-SHARP,HumbleMechanic
I ❤️ it. Outstanding tutorial
👍
Take care,Sir
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 21:30pm Good Evening
Ring clearance in groove is important as you can get ring flutter if excessive. leads to broken rings. Washing everything? Usually fasteners are torqued with light oil unless manual specifies dry.
One thing that is very rarely given in any manual is ring free end gap. It tells you if rings have lost tension through being overheated (usually top ring) You can get low compression and not know why as things look fine' Should have watched a bit longer as I didn't knopw you used assembly lube on bolt threads.
Great work well done. I have done 150 1fz toyota land cruiser engine I never clean it like that
Great video. Especially since I’m upgrading my engine. Thx!
Excellent video series. Very informative and easy to watch. Much respect.
If you measure clearance both under and above the crank, than the total clearance is equal to clearance read under + clearance read above the crank.
So in your case where you show 2 smaller than 0.025mm (lets say 0.020mm) your total clearance is 0.04mm
fine job , well done and well explained .
Fantastic, educative! Thanks for sharing!
Awesome video! Greetings from Bulgaria :) I'm waiting for the next video!
Swing by my channel. A bunch more since this one. None on the S10 because that was a one video thing
John Denman would be proud!
The beard is badass!
ZZ Top
AWESOMEEEE step by step, u did it awesome like u invented it :O nicee
Hey do you have to use plastic gauge and check the crank shaft clearance if your just refreshing the engine , and your using all own stuff..the motor will not be turbocharged it will stay stock oem thanks !
Charles, I've never done a Plastigauge clearance check but simple geometry says that if you use one strip on one side of a bearing, the gauge material will act as a spacer as you wind up the bolts, till you have zero clearance on the other side, and twice the clearance on the gauge side. All things being equal if you use two gauge strips, one on each opposite side the crush forces should balance out and each gauge will tell you the gap on their respective sides of the bearing.
I'd appreciate your response to this because I have my own R32 rebuild coming up and I am using your guidance.
I tested it both ways and got basically the same results
Absolutely amazing. Thank you so much for your work.
this is fun to watch
Coffee Filters, I am stealing that tip! Awesome job on the detail and putting it together in a sensible format for us!
Please steal it!
Audi performance and racing, APR has very good stuff that is researched in cooperation with the VAG factory wizards. Downside is that there is relatively few APR parts on the market and they´d rather also build the cars in APR certified garages so that´s possibly not the best trademark for a DIY guy. I ran with OEM clutch and cam timing belt 10 years and 100 000 Miles with mostly just the basic maintenance like regular oil change with the stage 1 + that is 450 to 480 Nm and from 330 to 370 horse power differing on the fuel and air temp etc. Do a 2.0 FSI/TFSI engine next please.
Love the video! Great information to help others so the same. Can't wait to see a 2.0 MK7 engine build 😏😁
I need you do do this to my engine. My engine is 210K is time for an overhaul and check everything up from scratch from bare block up with upgrades.
Hi Charles .I enjoyed every minute of this rebuild . I have had only 4 cars in my life , all VW’s 1958 Bug 1969 Bug 1980 Rabbit Diesel . & 1992 Diesel Golf . The Rabbit and Golf still on the road . I rebuilt the Golf motor , it has no thrust washers but you can change # 3 crank bearing to correct end play , I’m not a pro tec , but my question to you is there a lot of motor ‘s with out thrust bearings? I love the efficiency of your work and your fast and to the point thanks AL Greetings from Canada 🇨🇦🇺🇸😙🚗
Great video
thank you!
an excellent job👍👍👍👍👍
This gives me the confidence to maybe do my own engine when the time comes on my TT RS. Hopefully not for a very, very long time hahaha
Ever install Megasquirt?? maybe a vidoe on pull ups and stuff, That would be awesome and help people understand wiring isnt that hard.
That would be awesome.
wow so clean.... you are awsome and VR6 ... love it the engine.... :)
Thank you so much
:)
Finally! Now we're talkin'!
If you're torquing the rod cap bolts to check the plastic gauge. Wouldn't the bolts be non useable after that? Aren't they torque to yield?
Good job Charles, coming together nicely:):)
Hello. I am currently changing the cylinder head gasket and clean the engine. Do I have to smear the cylinder walls with oil?
Sometimes I'll drop a b.b. in the bolt hole to hold the stud up and be able to tighten the stud prior to putting the caps and nuts on.