Perfect walk through video! I made a mini crawler course in my garage and had 2 of my obstacles that were too much vertical and caused me to flip before this switch and now i make it over them! Thanks
I did the Rx/Battery swap, but left my Battery tray intact. (Your's is a great idea. Will need to remove now) I also added 14 grams( 1/2 oz.) of wheel weights on top of the steering servo. This made a big weight shift forward, works well for me. Great video.
Thanks for the great feedback. I am taking step by step approach and ensure that all that can be done be done before adding additional weights. I know for sure that I will be adding brass knuckles, and maybe front brass diff cover, and then see how much more front weight bias is needed.
Thanks for watching the video. The video link provide below at 2min17sec covers the details that you are looking for. If you have not yet taken a look, it should help with the info that you need. ruclips.net/video/ezDgJda3eho/видео.html
I bought 3d printed bundle from ebay and it works great. The extension cables made it possible to mount the lights to the grill. I also did the JST mod to the battery to bridge the gap from the ESC to the Battery. Thanks for all the info.
Sounds like a plan. Hoping the part that I need for the axle become stock at some point soon, then I will be able to complete the comparision, and then work on the motor.
Thanks for breaking this down. My son just got one of these and I was looking for some cheap stuff to get it performing better. I'll be doing this and the your shock mod this week.
That's awesome! I just came across your channel and love the instructional videos! Very helpful! As soon as I got my scx24 this was the first thing I did! Funny to see how I wasn't the only one! Best upgrade so far, reduces a lot of the top weight 💯🤙
Awesome. Thanks for checking out my videos. The weight redistribution helps to shift the weight bias by 2%. I went from 52F/48R to 54F/46R just by simple adjustment. It's definitely a great free mod.
I made the moves! I had an upgraded 950 mAh battery I was having a lot of trouble accommodating because of its larger size. Being able to locate the larger battery left to right at the former speed control location worked out well. Couple of issues though. I don’t think you mentioned the stock bumper LED’s & stock 350 mAh battery connectors will need to be extended. Great video & mod, thanks.
Totally skipped my mind when I did the video, but definitely the battery connectors and led connectors will need to be extended. I modded the battery connector so that I have JST plugs on both ends now. It makes picking up new batteries so much easier that way. I should have a short video on it.
I mounted a 1/10 esc up front within the chassis rails and cut the rear battery tray to sit on the same angle as the chassis rails in back. I also widened the track with some push rod stoppers and ecx hexes (heat the stoppers on the end of a soldering iron and push into the hexes). Tyres are a problem though, I wish someone would make 1/24 tyres in the same compound as hyrax or similar.
Wow, that's a lot of work done. Eventually I might change out to FlySky receiver with BR mini ESC so that I can use my main transmitter radio, but for now going to keep it with stock esc. Have you weighed yours to see what the weight distribution might be?
For now I removed the bumpers and the LEDs as I plan to make few changes to the LEDs such as add LED to headlights and tailights. I have extension for the LEDs so that is probably the route I am going to go.
@@HyperFragHD I removed the LED all together for now as I am focused on performance improvements. But I will be adding it back in the future. I have few extenders so I will probably go that route, or just re-wire it all together so I can add rear taillight as well. I think I picked up the extender from ebay.
Might be a dumb question but as I was doing this I realized the wires for the servo won’t reach the esc when it’s in the back, what did you do to cure that issue?
Not a dumb question. Check out the upgrades #2 video uploaded this morning. Basically there are couple of solutions. Either use an extension or if you upgrade the servo to such as Emax servo, it comes with longer servo wire. You will also notice that battery connector will also be a bit short. I cover that in one of the video, but I will make a separate video for that one shortly.
you didn't talk about wiring, which is what many people would watch this video for, including me. does the servo wire reach all the way to the ESC, or did you have to extend it?
The stock servo wire will NOT reach the ESC in the new location; however, most other servo including EMAX will not have any issue reaching the ESC as the wires are much longer. One thing, the stock battery wire will also be too short. Personally, I don't like plugging in the battery wire directly to ESC, so I recommend making a JST extension using the stock battery wire. The benefit is that it opens up new battery options and the wires will be more than long enough. Good luck.
@@BigSungHobbies ok. Thanks for the info. I have an Emax to install, and I've seen people use those other connectors to extend the battery wire, especially since some other batteries come with those connectors.... as you know.
Great job! Let me ask, one of your 7 recommended upgrades was the motor, right? I didn’t see it included in your list of videos. I even seem to remember you mentioned the motor you used. I very much would like to do the upgrade, but I dare not try w/out watching a competent person doing it. Do gears have to be changed? Does the ESC need to be changed? I don’t want to screw it up. Thanks, JoeM
I have not upgraded the motor yet. I wanted to make all the other changes first, and then do the motor change and do a before and after comparison. Since I am still testing out few things such as lighter 3d printed beadlock wheels vs. RC4WD stamped steel beadlock wheels, the motor upgrade is on hold at this time...I need a part to complete it, but as usual it is out of stock, so I am a bit stuck at the moment. As for the motor swap, the only difficulty in changing the barrage motor is that the mounting holes are not the same. You have the option of drilling 2 holes to the motor plate so that you can mount it (this is probably the way I will be going), or buying a new motor plate that already has the appropriate holes drilled (I believe Shapeways offers one, and there are others who do make custom motor plates). No need to change the ESC, but the motor wires needs to be swapped as its in reverse. You can either desolder and then solder the wires correctly or swap the wires at the pins. The gears doesn't have to be changed, but I might be trying a smaller pinion gear (will have to see).
Awesome. Thanks for the information. As I plan to swap out the chassis to TGH's carbon fiber chassis once it gets here, I did not want to use glue at this time. I will probably decase the ESC, waterproof it, then use either glue or shoe goo/e6000 to glue it to the CF chassis. Slow build, but it's starting to move in the direction that I want...ultimate goal of minimal weight, but take it to 60F/40R weight distribution.
@@MelbourneExclusive0 I have been bad. The narrowness once decased, made it a bit challenging to mount it. I have been trying to figure out an easier way to mount it...but other things became a priority. But eventually I will be looking into it again.
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Perfect walk through video! I made a mini crawler course in my garage and had 2 of my obstacles that were too much vertical and caused me to flip before this switch and now i make it over them! Thanks
That is awesome! Glad to hear it helped!
I did the Rx/Battery swap, but left my Battery tray intact. (Your's is a great idea. Will need to remove now) I also added 14 grams( 1/2 oz.) of wheel weights on top of the steering servo. This made a big weight shift forward, works well for me. Great video.
Thanks for the great feedback. I am taking step by step approach and ensure that all that can be done be done before adding additional weights. I know for sure that I will be adding brass knuckles, and maybe front brass diff cover, and then see how much more front weight bias is needed.
The video is fine but my wires are way too short and it looks like that the same case for you how do you accommodate for that
Thanks for watching the video. The video link provide below at 2min17sec covers the details that you are looking for. If you have not yet taken a look, it should help with the info that you need. ruclips.net/video/ezDgJda3eho/видео.html
I bought 3d printed bundle from ebay and it works great. The extension cables made it possible to mount the lights to the grill. I also did the JST mod to the battery to bridge the gap from the ESC to the Battery. Thanks for all the info.
Awesome. Glad to hear that 3d printed bundle worked out.
I am going to have to wait for you. I make mistakes even after I watch a video! Thanks for getting back to me.
Sounds like a plan. Hoping the part that I need for the axle become stock at some point soon, then I will be able to complete the comparision, and then work on the motor.
Thanks for breaking this down. My son just got one of these and I was looking for some cheap stuff to get it performing better. I'll be doing this and the your shock mod this week.
Also make sure to do steering mod. Cheap and works well.
@@BigSungHobbies Are you referring to the O rings on the tie rod? I looked for those in Home Depot today but they didn't have anything that small
Harbor Freight has o-ring kit that works.
Steering and shock mod done! Added brass knuckles too. Thanks for the how tos!
@@Flying_Dollar_Motorsports Awesome. Hope you enjoy it.
That's awesome! I just came across your channel and love the instructional videos! Very helpful! As soon as I got my scx24 this was the first thing I did! Funny to see how I wasn't the only one! Best upgrade so far, reduces a lot of the top weight 💯🤙
Awesome. Thanks for checking out my videos. The weight redistribution helps to shift the weight bias by 2%. I went from 52F/48R to 54F/46R just by simple adjustment. It's definitely a great free mod.
@@BigSungHobbies thank you for the tip! Definitely helps a lot!
Hey no problem. I have found that if you can get to 58/42, then it's actually pretty stable.
I made the moves! I had an upgraded 950 mAh battery I was having a lot of trouble accommodating because of its larger size. Being able to locate the larger battery left to right at the former speed control location worked out well. Couple of issues though. I don’t think you mentioned the stock bumper LED’s & stock 350 mAh battery connectors will need to be extended. Great video & mod, thanks.
Totally skipped my mind when I did the video, but definitely the battery connectors and led connectors will need to be extended. I modded the battery connector so that I have JST plugs on both ends now. It makes picking up new batteries so much easier that way. I should have a short video on it.
I mounted a 1/10 esc up front within the chassis rails and cut the rear battery tray to sit on the same angle as the chassis rails in back. I also widened the track with some push rod stoppers and ecx hexes (heat the stoppers on the end of a soldering iron and push into the hexes). Tyres are a problem though, I wish someone would make 1/24 tyres in the same compound as hyrax or similar.
Wow, that's a lot of work done. Eventually I might change out to FlySky receiver with BR mini ESC so that I can use my main transmitter radio, but for now going to keep it with stock esc. Have you weighed yours to see what the weight distribution might be?
Official proline hyrax are out for the scx24 and they’re GREAT 😁
How did you deal with the LEDs? The leads on mine look too short to allow the ESC to be moved to the back?
For now I removed the bumpers and the LEDs as I plan to make few changes to the LEDs such as add LED to headlights and tailights. I have extension for the LEDs so that is probably the route I am going to go.
@@BigSungHobbies Where can you buy the led extensions?
@@HyperFragHD I removed the LED all together for now as I am focused on performance improvements. But I will be adding it back in the future. I have few extenders so I will probably go that route, or just re-wire it all together so I can add rear taillight as well. I think I picked up the extender from ebay.
@@BigSungHobbies Ok thank you man. I am keen to see more
@@BigSungHobbies where can you buy the extenders for the LEDs? Or do you know the name of the connector so I can make my own?
Might be a dumb question but as I was doing this I realized the wires for the servo won’t reach the esc when it’s in the back, what did you do to cure that issue?
Not a dumb question. Check out the upgrades #2 video uploaded this morning. Basically there are couple of solutions. Either use an extension or if you upgrade the servo to such as Emax servo, it comes with longer servo wire. You will also notice that battery connector will also be a bit short. I cover that in one of the video, but I will make a separate video for that one shortly.
Nice weight mod
Thanks...slowly getting there :)
you didn't talk about wiring, which is what many people would watch this video for, including me. does the servo wire reach all the way to the ESC, or did you have to extend it?
The stock servo wire will NOT reach the ESC in the new location; however, most other servo including EMAX will not have any issue reaching the ESC as the wires are much longer. One thing, the stock battery wire will also be too short. Personally, I don't like plugging in the battery wire directly to ESC, so I recommend making a JST extension using the stock battery wire. The benefit is that it opens up new battery options and the wires will be more than long enough. Good luck.
@@BigSungHobbies ok. Thanks for the info. I have an Emax to install, and I've seen people use those other connectors to extend the battery wire, especially since some other batteries come with those connectors.... as you know.
One thing, for battery extension, I have a video that should help - ruclips.net/video/339noRT3sTc/видео.html
Great job!
Let me ask, one of your 7 recommended upgrades was the motor, right? I didn’t see it included in your list of videos. I even seem to remember you mentioned the motor you used. I very much would like to do the upgrade, but I dare not try w/out watching a competent person doing it. Do gears have to be changed? Does the ESC need to be changed? I don’t want to screw it up.
Thanks, JoeM
I have not upgraded the motor yet. I wanted to make all the other changes first, and then do the motor change and do a before and after comparison. Since I am still testing out few things such as lighter 3d printed beadlock wheels vs. RC4WD stamped steel beadlock wheels, the motor upgrade is on hold at this time...I need a part to complete it, but as usual it is out of stock, so I am a bit stuck at the moment. As for the motor swap, the only difficulty in changing the barrage motor is that the mounting holes are not the same. You have the option of drilling 2 holes to the motor plate so that you can mount it (this is probably the way I will be going), or buying a new motor plate that already has the appropriate holes drilled (I believe Shapeways offers one, and there are others who do make custom motor plates). No need to change the ESC, but the motor wires needs to be swapped as its in reverse. You can either desolder and then solder the wires correctly or swap the wires at the pins. The gears doesn't have to be changed, but I might be trying a smaller pinion gear (will have to see).
Gorilla hot glue works well to hold the esc.
Awesome. Thanks for the information. As I plan to swap out the chassis to TGH's carbon fiber chassis once it gets here, I did not want to use glue at this time. I will probably decase the ESC, waterproof it, then use either glue or shoe goo/e6000 to glue it to the CF chassis. Slow build, but it's starting to move in the direction that I want...ultimate goal of minimal weight, but take it to 60F/40R weight distribution.
You can lose another 5.7 grams of the overall esc weight by removing the upper and lower casing...Mounting however would not be as easy.
Yup, I will be looking to decase the ESC at near future. Since I have TGH chassis on the way, I figured I would wait till that shows up :)
@@BigSungHobbies did you end up decasing it?
@@MelbourneExclusive0 I have been bad. The narrowness once decased, made it a bit challenging to mount it. I have been trying to figure out an easier way to mount it...but other things became a priority. But eventually I will be looking into it again.