You could include the weight of the ESC holder tray in the savings as you might be able to ditch that too.( Or the batt tray, in your case) :) I was wondering what they looked like de-cased. Thanks for these vid's. Just starting so binge watching to learn all I can! :)
@@TheShopMiniRC Watching tons of videos and definitely learned high weight bed, low weight good. LOL! Even saw a guy do solid brass 4 way link arms. Thanks!
Another awesome video that took the intimidation out of something i wanted to do but had zero idea for to do it!! Came to this video via your injora rock buggy build!!! My question is... after decasing to protect it you mentioned using hot glue. Could you heat shrink over the entire thing to protect eveything? Thanks for the help!!!! You're literally my new favorite 24 scale channel!!!
Huge thanks for watchin!! Yes, you could definitely heat shrink it. I would also recommend looking at conformal coating it. You just want to be sure that it doesn’t get too hot.
You can use anything really. Ideally something like servo tape. Double sided 3m. Hot glue. Just be careful on how “strong” the hot glue is. You don’t want to damage the board if you remove it later.
It all adds up. It also gives you more versatility in where you can mount it. Which means you can not only lose a tad bit of weight but also place the remaining weight some where better. Also, not all rigs are “heavy”. I have a rig that’s just at 200 grams and it kills it in class 3. ;) proper weight placement is more important than “heavy weight”
@@TheShopMiniRC The 4 pins at 7:20 in the video. Was just wondering if there's a reason for removing instead of just bending over 90deg. and soldering the wires right on to them as is. :)
@@wingnutbert9685 ahh. Yes, you could. I just like it to be wire straight to the board as it means it’s less likely to touch and short. If those touch from being bent, you fry the board and maybe even catch your batt on fire.
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You could include the weight of the ESC holder tray in the savings as you might be able to ditch that too.( Or the batt tray, in your case) :) I was wondering what they looked like de-cased.
Thanks for these vid's. Just starting so binge watching to learn all I can! :)
True. There are lots of ways to cut weight if you get creative with mounting and such.
@@TheShopMiniRC Watching tons of videos and definitely learned high weight bed, low weight good. LOL! Even saw a guy do solid brass 4 way link arms. Thanks!
Another awesome video that took the intimidation out of something i wanted to do but had zero idea for to do it!!
Came to this video via your injora rock buggy build!!!
My question is... after decasing to protect it you mentioned using hot glue. Could you heat shrink over the entire thing to protect eveything?
Thanks for the help!!!!
You're literally my new favorite 24 scale channel!!!
Huge thanks for watchin!! Yes, you could definitely heat shrink it. I would also recommend looking at conformal coating it. You just want to be sure that it doesn’t get too hot.
I so came here to figure out how to mount the stock esc tell I get the one I want
Thanks with this video saved mine, the swicht had corrotion and didn't worked
Aweosme to hear!!! I hope we earned your subscription!!!
Ever thought of using a conformal coating on the board for protection? Or potting it with epoxy or hot glue?
I do coat mine with conformal.
Decased n now no steering i have foward/reverse n my lights work but no steering..even tried another servo..
That is very odd. I hope you didn’t damage the board in any way while decasing it.
I have used liquid electrical tape in some delicate places. It is also black, so it disappears easy.
great idea!
do you have too solder the switch or will it work with it still on
You can leave the switch on
@TheShopMiniRC thanks im about too do the orientation tomorrow the ch side sould face towards servo right?
@@michaeljohnson254 ? I don’t understand your question.
@TheShopMiniRC like what orientation is the esco suppost too sit so it clears that u link
@@michaeljohnson254 totally depends on your truck.
What did you use to mount the ESC underneath?
You can use anything really. Ideally something like servo tape. Double sided 3m. Hot glue. Just be careful on how “strong” the hot glue is. You don’t want to damage the board if you remove it later.
How does 5 grams (or 12) matter in a car that weighs about 300-600 ?
It all adds up. It also gives you more versatility in where you can mount it. Which means you can not only lose a tad bit of weight but also place the remaining weight some where better.
Also, not all rigs are “heavy”. I have a rig that’s just at 200 grams and it kills it in class 3. ;) proper weight placement is more important than “heavy weight”
@@TheShopMiniRC Yes i am working on that, take most of the heavy stuff i bought in the beginning off again.
@@snörre23 not a bad idea to try a lighter weight rig as well ;-)
How about just bending the pins over and soldering the wires to them instead of removing them?
For the power? You could. I try to save my switches.
@@TheShopMiniRC The 4 pins at 7:20 in the video. Was just wondering if there's a reason for removing instead of just bending over 90deg. and soldering the wires right on to them as is. :)
@@wingnutbert9685 ahh. Yes, you could. I just like it to be wire straight to the board as it means it’s less likely to touch and short. If those touch from being bent, you fry the board and maybe even catch your batt on fire.
@@TheShopMiniRC Right on. Good to know! Thank you!!!
Might try it ...
It definitely saves you some space. If you have any questions, just ask!!!