Lol I'm probably weird but I've watched this whole series like 5 times because it's so interesting and the videos are some of the most well made videos I've ever seen so kudos to you
Anyone else know the feeling you get when you start watching videos about something you want to get into, and in your stomach you can feel, "oooh im gonna spend a lot of money aren't i" yeah thats how these good ass engaging videos make me feel this all started cuz i bought a gameboy player and now i have entered this rabbit hole because of you guys. Thank you.
I've had several SCART switches over the years. Unless it has a mains power booster, I wouldn't even bother using one as it culminates in a much darker picture.
Thank you so much for your swift reply. Honestly speaking, the way you and game sack output the video quality is the reason why I wanted to return to the retro gaming scene. Keep up the great work, guys.
You guys are awesome. I bought the Framemeister shortly after watching your first video and now have it happily in my home! This follow up video was great, especially with the clean visuals showing your setups, sort of like blueprints. I must say you guys have more clear and concise instructions and advice out there compared to any other site or blog and deserve every comment and thumbs up you get.
TehMonitor Thanks! Yeah, that was the main thing we set out to do. While there is a lot of info out there, most of it is not put together in the most easy to understand way. With these videos, we wanted to present this information in a way that anyone can do it. Its a fairly dense topic, and when spending that kind of money you want to get as much info as possible.
I'm always stoked about how in-depth you guys go with your videos. _So_ appreciative and thorough, covering all possible bases and potential questions. Kickass video as always!
I found your channel through Bad Luck Bootsy's post about your original RGB video, and I've got to say this is a great channel. This is information I'd never seen anywhere else. You've got a new sub
What a great series of videos guys! I've learned a lot about hooking everything up properly and made me think about how I want my setup to be. Thanks a ton from Mexico. =)
I’m watching this playlist for the 5th time. I love it. The one thing I don’t get though, with your continually set up setup, what about controller cords? You just have them hanging high or way off to the side?
I can't believe I didn't discover your channel earlier...... why haven't any of the bigger retro gaming channels mentioned you?? High quality videos and grade-A content 100%!!!
thanks for sharing, this video series is very helpful before I try to get RGB signals from my old consoles. I used to think I knew a bit about video and audio signal, but I had no idea how complicated it can get! The setup diagrams shown are incredibly complex but offer some great ideas.
You can get scart switchers easy in the UK for many years, even today. They are also cheap. You can get them through Ebay or Amazon if you order internationally. It's not recommended to keep switching/swapping scart cables each time you play a different system. The scart cables will wear out very quickly, so you end up buying more cables.
If you are still looking for a scart switcher you may want to consider the Bandridge SCART Auto Switchbox ( VSB7735 ) It's the one i use on the mini. It looks a little bulky but it has most of the properties you desire from a scart switch. It has five SCART inputs and one output. All inputs are isolated from each other so no interference. You have two versions of this switch. The purely manual and the automatic+manual version. Using the automatic+manual version the scart switch automatically switches input signals but also allows you to manually select an input using a button on the front. It's externally powered using 12V/500mAh.
First off all. Thank you so much for this wonderful inspiring and interesting video! I am currently getting my stuff together to be able to play mostly Nintendo consoles on my HD television and appreciate it that you are giving that much of information out to people like me. I am seriously greatful for this! I hope that both of you can fullfill your desires to complete your setups and having fun with retro gaming (:3) Greetings from Germany!
Ayy thanks, I'm sitting here diving through eBay pages to find the FrameMeister SCART adapter. Do you recommend the powered one, or is the passive one good enough?
I've got about 15 homecomputers and consoles attached to 4 Bandridge 5-way scart switchboxes linked to each other. No interference whatsoever, despite some bad behaving systems. I use these quite a while now, I've got them for about €35. These switchboxes automatically detect input and switch accordingly. I've got also a version that mechanically switches for about €20. I highly recommend the automatically switching version if you have a collection. Just turning your console on without any fuss will make you smile every time.
u guys r so badass better than all the other retro channels i watch ..keep it up bros 👍 u guys should have thousands n thousands of more subscribers !!!
Hey, I've been catching up on this channel for the last month or so as I'm preparing my own retro setup... and I thought the music sounded familiar! Thanks guys! Keep it up :D
Some people tend to forget that the hi-res mode with expansion pack games for N64 will support 480i just like the Dreamcast. There are even a few PS1 and Sega Saturn games with 480i like Tekken 3, Tobal 1 and 2, Decathlon and Virtua Fighter 2 (the 60 fps games). So RGB to Compenent can be really nice on an EDTV (480p capable CRT) or an HDTV CRT that goes up to 1080i, but converts 240p and 480i into a stable 480p with little to almost no lag. PS2, Dreamcast, Xbox, Gamecube (even more with 480p mode from the consoles settings) look great on HD CRTs like a Toshiba HF series and Sony FD series from 2002-2006. I am using a Toshiba HF72 36" for those consoles with component video. I use my 2003 Sony Trinitron SD CRT for all of my classic games consoles, also through component video (S-video with my Turbo Duo and N64).
If you buy a SCART switcher, make sure it actually carries the RGB signals. About ten years ago I bought one that only carried the composite+audio. Ended up buying a more expensive one later.
Enviable setups! Wow! I'm using an older model of the Extron MPS I got off ebay for $20 as a switch. It handles 12 devices (4 VGA, 4 Composite, and 4 S-Video). If you're not afraid of making custom adapters, you can use it to switch SCART through the VGA ports or you can look at Extron's other switches, but you have to get lucky to find them unless you're a dealer.
Great video! I can recommend the Bandridge 5 port SCART switcher. Just get the manual switcher, the XRGB Mini doesn't have pinout to recognise auto-switching anyway. I use two of these daisy-chained myself.
The bandridge automatic 5 to 1 (or 4 to 2 actually) is an excelent scart switcher. I use two of them daisy-chained using two outputs (tv and capture card) and there is no quality loss or color difference. Plus you get the convenience of auto-switching, with both RGB and analog composite.
I have a powered 4 port RGB SCART auto switcher that switches between my PS2, SNES, Mega Drive II and N64. The SCART switcher just detects which console is powered last and switches to it, even though my N64 is not RGB modded and only outputting PAL composite video it still works fine. I have also noticed that it filters the signal before it reaches my computer monitor so output from the Mega Drive looks clean. The switcher was bought 5 years ago and seems to be somewhat rare.
Wait 6:10 but why do some ps3 systems have or iirc in another video from metal jesus rocks channel it show the ps3 showing up in the menu/system settings the region option/select for what region of ps1 discs to allow at a given time an for the models that are equipped with ps2 disc capability also but even the on an off option for hdcp over hdmi?
I don't know if they are still available, but the company "Madcatz" produced a scart switch-box a few years ago. I purchased a few at the time. They are all black with clear "bumper" ends and gaming\Madcatz logos. It reads Item:6013 , RGB System Scart Selector on the bottom and has 4 inputs\ 1 output ( all scart obviously ) with a small 4 position sliding switch on the front. They were specifically designed for gaming and are the only type that I know of. Standard types can at best cause interference. Worst case scenario, slight differences in pinouts can fry a system! I have been using these Madcatz switchers to switch between my 13 different systems for years now with no degradation of picture or crosstalk and advise their products if found.
As far as SCART switches go, I have the Hama 100S and have had no issues at all with any of my systems (and you know there are quite a few of those), but it's only good for 3 consoles at a time. The Bandbridge seems to be the new gold standard, though. I was considering one until I read about your experiences with it in these comments. So weird. I'm going to wait until that gets sorted.
Since you already have the Framemeister with D-terminal input, you should get the D-terminal cable for the Gamecube. Much cheaper and enables progressive scan exactly as the official component cables do.
I started with a cheaper SCART to HDMI scaler, around 50-60 bucks. It doesn't have the features or the quality of the framemeister, but it still looks pretty damn brilliant I'd say. My Saturn has never looked this great. Beyond happy with this purchase.
Coury, another reason you should have your Wii hooked up is that it can play your Gamecube games at 480p. It is true that a 480p GC game through Wii component cables have *slightly* less detail and color clarity than through a Gamecube component cable, but considering the massive cost of GC component cables, the games through Wii component cables are perfectly acceptable for the price. Much less expensive, and almost as good. True, you won't be able to use the Game Boy Player with it, and until you get Gamecube component cables, that's really all the Gamecube will be good for, but why play at s-video when a simple solution is right there, not being hooked up?
Don't know if it's much help to anyone stateside, but here in the UK I've got a B-Tech Quattro scart switch which is pretty awesome. It's active, so it boosts the RGB signal rather than degrading it and it's a nice looking set top box which wouldn't look out of place sat next to a bunch of hi-fi gear. Only cost me £10 off eBay, used of course. They stopped making them around the turn of the century. I've got the BT941 model which is great, but I'd like to get the BT945 model because it's a bit better (or so I've read).
*"SCART K'NABLES KINECTED!"* I have a question about those HDMI switchers and splitters: how about lag? I thought this kind of equipment implemented lag.
Would you guys like a lengthy description as to why I think you should still have a regular Wii hooked up? I've experimented a lot with the console, and I find just using the Wii U isn't always the way to go. (Incoming wall of text) I highly recommend soft modding your Wii so that it is able to play games off a usb device plugged into its second usb port. I have a 500 GB portable hard drive in mine, and with the USB Loader GX app installed on my Wii, I can install my entire Wii collection right onto the hard drive. Since you need a program on your PC called the WBFS Loader to format the hard drive to use Wii iso files, you can also use it to install PAL and Japanese iso files that you can find in various places online, and play them, bypassing region encoding. You can set the PAL iso files to be forced into 60hz, so they always play, and it works well. So, if there was a Japanese game localized in English, but never brought to North America, this is a way to get around that. It's also how you can play games that have English fan patches put on them. Don't like the atrocious dub for Arc Rise Fantasia? There's the undub iso for that. Furthermore, this method reduces load times a bit. Not as much as a fat PS2 with a memory card that has Free McBoot to play games off an IDE hard drive (which I also recommend), but still notable. This isn't much of an issue with most games, but it's really useful for games that are large enough to be on dual layer DVDs. Games like Super Smash Bros Brawl, Xenoblade Chronicles, and The Last Story make the Wii constantly re-read parts of the disc, causing lots of noise and potentially making the system die. On a hard drive, there is no disc involved, and the laser goes unused, keeping it intact. One of the best surprises that I got from playing off a hard drive is that it is somehow easier on your HDTV's scaler, improving the video quality. My friend and I compared Xenoblade Chronicles playing it off the disc, and playing it off the hard drive, and we both noticed a significant improvement in edge smoothness, color clarity, and detail sharpness, all of which looked better than how Wii games look when played on a Wii U, and there was no difference in video resolution. The same TV settings and component cable were used at 480p. It also helps iron out scan lines a bit in games that are known to have them, like the Zelda games. I find that playing these games on the Wii U, regardless of HDMI or component, causes black artifacts to appear, or they just sharpen the jagged edges of character models without actually improving them. However, not all games can be played this way. It seems to have the most trouble with compilation games, where you have to choose which game you want at the main menu. The Kirby Collection, Metroid Prime Trilogy, and Back to the Future The Game are examples. Other regular games like Sakura Wars and Prince of Persia: Forgotten Sands for Wii don't work like this either. Such games are usually better played on the Wii U. I say 'usually', because some of those games let you use a Gamecube controller, and the Wii U doesn't support that controller, except for Smash Bros 4 Wii U. If you prefer using a Gamecube controller for those games, playing the disc on the Wii is the best option. I've seen third party adapters that plug into a Wiimote that you can plug a Gamecube controller into, and it fools the Wiimote into thinking its a Classic Controller, but I've heard they have 1 frame of input lag. I can't confirm, since I've never had one. Now, one thing I must mention is that the improved video quality DOES NOT translate into captured footage, it only affects how it looks on the TV. I have an Avermedia capture card, and I tested recording Wii games off disc and off the hard drive, and the recording quality was identical. If you want to record Wii footage, and you can't use a Gamecube controller, record off disc on the Wii U. For recording Wii games off the Wii U, I recommend using component at 720p, instead of HDMI. I've found that HDMI footage turns out with desaturated colors, though the edges appear to be *slightly* better. Component at 1080p is also *slightly* better than component at 720p, but its very negligible, and not worth the extra space taken up on your hard drive when recording. Now, the HDMI desaturated issue can be fixed with adding saturation back to the footage in your video editor, which can make it look identical to component footage, but if you don't want to bother, then go for component first. Now, it is possible to install and use the USB Loader GX app on your Wii U, because of the Wii mode, and it can possibly be better this way because you have higher resolutions to work with, but I don't recommend it at this point. Wii U modding is still in its infancy, and its likely that other, better ways will be made at a later date. In summary, if you just want to play Wii games, use a modded Wii with a hard drive. If you want to record Wii games, use a Wii U with component at 720p.
[coury] whoa! Huge detail here. Super through and in depth. Thank you! That's super interesting about the way the TV handles it - when we get to the Wii episode we'll dig in and test all this stuff. I know about but haven't gotten too into hard drive style mods for the Wii and PS2 but it's absolutely something I'll look into. Currently I do use my Wii U for Wii games but have a set of component cables that I use for my original that I could move over. I have always felt they looked off with HDMI but I haven't played any Wii games recently so I just didn't think about it. But thank you so much for this. It gives us lots of stuff to get into when we get to the Wii RGB vid.
***** If you want a tutorial on how to get USB Loader GX, watch the youtube tutorial by HighTeckMan. I followed his instructions, and it worked for me. If you go to http ://wiki. gbatemp.net/ wiki/ USB_Game_Compatibility_Table, you'll see an incomplete, but mostly useful list of games that work with USB Loader GX. Just remove the spaces for the link. Playing PS2 games off the hard drive is great as the load times are drastically reduced, since you use a PS2 internet adapter to connect the hard drive (placed in the expansion bay) to the console itself. You *can* play games off a hard drive through USB for the slim PS2, but I don't recommend it since the PS2 uses USB 1.0, and its load times are much longer than playing it off disc. Again, not all PS2 games work off a hard drive, but about 93 percent do. Unlike the Wii, I do not notice a change in video output when playing PS2 games off the hard drive. I'd like to point out that my HDTV is a Vizio, and its Sharpness adjustment scale is VERY good. None of that bad ghost filtering crap for me. I keep the sharpness at max (0 is lowest, 8 is neutral, 16 is max) on all my input settings, so that also affects my Wii video display. One last thing, I think RGB will only be of use to the Wii if you're a PAL Wii owner. First, because only PAL Wii's are wired for RGB. Second, because all Wii games have progressive scan, 480p through component is perfectly adequate. The only benefit I can see is to games that have a lot of scan lines, like the Zelda games. The scan lines are caused by setting the console to output 480p, and the HDTV scaler trying to fill in "empty spaces" to match the progressive setting. Setting the Wii to 480i gets rid of the scan lines on these games, but dulls the colors and blurs the edges and details. For these games only do I see RGB scart to Framemeister being a boon.
I have a framemeister cable with sync stripper built in which was necessary to get stable image from my snes and mega drive. Unfortunately the Voltage drop on longer cables and/or through scart switcher means it doesnt work so I had to remove all extensions and the switcher.. Your milage may vary though.
Can we shut down all other tech advice youtube accounts and just have yours? You're pretty much answering all the questions I ever seem to have. Next question... Audio tips maybe?
[Try4ce] I'm not as proficient with audio as I'd like to be, but I do quickly go over how my audio gets to my speakers and mixer. Certain aspects of my audio setup are also in flux right now, but if I feel really satisfied with what I have at some point, I might share it!
+Joél Bernabel [Coury] I'd love an AES but I think I'm gonna go with an Omega consolized MVS for when I get into Neo Geo. We will however, be doing a Neo Geo RGB episode in the next several months.
+My Life in Gaming Id recommend getting a cheap mvs board, a supergun board from arcadeforge and hookup a Pc power supply to it. It has the neo geo controller ports, scart female connector and has the same 4 pin molex connector that IDE hard drives used to have. Sure, you need something to mount it on, but its gonna be a lot cheaper than an Omega.
I have the 8 pin din rgb scart cable from Europe for my Sega Master System as it provides rgb natively. I found a scart to HDMI upscaler called Elephas on eBay. It's a plug in and provide 800/600 at 60 megahertz with no noticeable lag and fantastic picture and Fm sound. $40.
You can actually hook the dreamcast up to the RGB-mini using VGA over a scart cable using a sync combiner. The VGA signal is 31hz RGBHV. The RGB-mini however does not support the HV part. But it does support the 31hz RGB over the SCART port. If you use a sync combiner to make the signal RGBC ( RGB combined signal ) you can then feed it into the mini and get a 480p signal on the mini. But even if you don't want to go this route, there is no excuse for s-video. RGB cables for the dreamcast are not that hard to find.
+Jerred Zoll Yeah, that is the setup i use right now as well. I noticed they even released a new version with 4 switches instead of the 3 i have. Maybe i'll give that one a try as well. I didn't know about the Toro back then. But it is a masterpiece. What it does is in essence the same. It takes the VGA signal and combines the the sync channels before outputting it over the SCART output. But it is much less hassle to get perfect and adds more features as well ( like switching VGA/RGB and scanlines ). I love it quite a bit.
Auto switching scart cables are available for £5 off ebay. I currently use these for most of my retro systems. I don't' think they degrade the quality but I may be wrong - I'm not using a framemeister myself.
You guys should look into the Hana (or is it Hanna?) SCART switcher sold on Ebay. It is very cheap and actually has excellent reviews. I have one myself and I cannot see any noticeable picture quality loss or interference at all due to it being completely mechanical and is just a straight pass through unit. It is definitely the best budget switcher out there bar none. The only drawback is that it only has 3 SCART inputs, but it's certainly better than nothing.
Gotta recommend the bandridge scartswitcher aswell. Running 15 systems through a network of these without any complaints. Havnt added the framemeister to the mix yet but cant imagine with would have any bad effect
Daniel Lubner [Coury] So we've both experimented with the Bandridge. Try was having issues because certain system that were plugged into input 5 would receive a little power when another system was on. It was really bizarre - the power light on the Genesis would turn on when it was plugged into slot 5 if you turned on a system in another slot - and would also only work in that slot to boot. So deciding not to risk damage to the system over time, we decided not to recommend it right now. However! I found a little guide on the unit recently where you can cut a trace on the board inside the switcher and it prevents this from happening. So I opened mine up and did it, and I seem to be having no problems at all. So we might have a solution (its just really hard to get the unit open!).
Great video series, guys. I recently took the plunge on getting a Framemeister recently, and did have a couple of questions: (1) Are you guys going to go into the newer updates on the Framemeister? It looks like Micomsoft recently updated the firmware to 2.00, and the JunkerHQ wiki doesn't have any information past 1.10. (2) Both of you are dealing with Japanese devices, which generally use a 100V adapter, while US power sockets generally output 110V or 120V. This isn't just the Framemeister - the A/V Famicom Jr. and the PC Engine Duo-R also have this issue. Are you using step-up/step-down transformers to cover the issue, or do you have adapters that can receive voltages from the gamut (e.g. 100V-240V)? I think my Framemeister came with an adapter that does this.
[Coury] I've updated to the 2.0 firmware and really like it. I haven't gotten too deeply into it yet though. I'm probably going to wait for the experts to make profiles instead of making my own. In order to make this series the best source of info on the subject (in video form), we intend on doing point updates for episodes that might need them. For instance I can see us doing a 301.1 for this down the road. "Patches," if you will. The voltage issue, we're not currently using anything - but my PC engine uses a U.S. Genesis 2 ac adapter so I'm safe with that. I'm not sure what Try uses on his AV Famicom though. We're both also using our stock ac adapters for the framemeister. I've looked into getting an correct US adapter for mine, but haven't. I heard that newer units include a variable voltage adapter that solves this problem. I wonder if they sell these official adapters by themselves...
1:57 I have been thinking, ¿what combination of Quality image profile do you get if you get an adapter that goes from HDMI to VGA with the Framemeister despite you may not get any audio sound ?
[Try4ce] This can be an interesting result, but the Framemeister is not the first device I would choose for this purpose. The OSSC or RetroTINK-2X would be better suited to this kind of task due to their output resolutions. There's also the GBS8200, which outputs VGA natively, and has more recently been modified to be much better than it normally is. We're gonna do a video on it soon.
Oh yeah an rgb input on the framemeister is great for my rgb systems,since all other convertors lack rgb input,because of costs reasons,i wonder if this device could take care about pal systems aswell as ntsc systems too,because i want to make sure that it process those images correctly in order to ansure good picture quality with minimum lag as possible.
Hey, My Life in Gaming. You mention using an AV Receiver as a HDMI-hub of sorts. Some/most of these AV Receivers feature its own upscaling device. I, myself, own an older Harman/Kardon AV receiver. It features the DCDi by Faroudja. There's not a lot of information (?) regarding this processor, atleast not that I've found, and what I've read is that it is good (at least at upscaling video). How well does this DCDi Faroudja, or any AV receiver, in upscaling games compared to the markets best (RetroTink 5X, OSSC, etc.) ? Thanks for the answer!
3 years late, but I'm upset they didn't attribute it. Zircon - Just Hold On zirconstudios.bandcamp.com/album/identity-sequence Was one of my favourite albums for a while
Thank you so much for posting all of your RGB modded systems and the results with the framemeister! I subscribed just because I want to see if you ever find a solution to the manual switching of SCART cables. Amazing video!
[Try4ce] We've actually both been doing some stuff with SCART switching, but still need a bit more time with the devices before we feel confident in sharing our results, or making any recommendations.
Hey my life in gaming you guys are misleading these good people into buying unnecessary equipment!!!! All anyone needs to do this a retron 5 and you can use nes ,sens ,genesis, famacaoin, game boy , game boy color, and game boy advanced in hd on your tv and you can use pre-built in cheat codes ,can use save states , and has controler 2 ports for nes ,snes ,and genesis controlers !!!! I swear you guys are guys are sponsoring your own business of falsely useful game console tv cables!!!!!!!
***** I've been thinking about the switch box solution, and I believe it should be possible to use an existing component gaming switch box via making an 8-pin mini-din Framemeister cable that has male RCA jacks on the other end of Right audio, Left audio, CSYNC (use yellow), Red, Green, and Blue. Then from there, you'd have to make all your console RGB cables have male RCA jacks on the other end this same way. Then you'd just simply plug them into the passive gaming switchbox, using yellow for CSYNC and of course R,G,B for the same colors there. The only problem is this would of course require modifying all your cables, but in theory should work perfectly.
Victoria vigeick A retron 5 is merely a collection of emulators in one box, not the actual hardware. Many enthusiasts (like myself) want the real hardware. Thus, there is no 'misleading' going on here at all. If emulation is your thing, then by all means go for it, but nothing beats the accuracy of having the real hardware.
[Try4ce] Don't use this as a guide because it's super out of date and the Framemeister is discontinued (and very expensive now). Look into some of our later videos where we feature OSSC, RetroTINK 2X series, and the RetroTINK 5X.
At 5:34, there appears to be a "loop" as far as the HDMI connections go between the HDMI Switcher / Framemeister and HDMI Splitter. Is this intentional? It's confusing me quite a bit right now.
[Try4ce] Good observation! You're absolutely right... there is a loop, and it's pretty weird. Coury doesn't have a loop. Everything he plays goes through the Framemeister, including modern HDMI-based consoles. This isn't really a problem, because he can choose HDMI pass-through in the Framemeister settings and the image will go through unprocessed (no reason to add additional processing or lag to HD consoles, but the systems are sent through the Framemeister for the purpose of capture... it just consolidates everything to go into the TV or capture card without the need to swap HDMI cables on the capture end). But I don't do this. So why do I use the loop? Well, the main reason is that I stream a lot more often than Coury does. My OBS (free broadcast software) scene settings are expecting 1080p input. If it's receiving 720p from say, a PS3 game, then things are gonna be a bit screwed up in OBS. It's not so much a problem if all you're doing is just playing or doing a regular recording. So this way, if the game is outputting 720p, the Framemeister upscales it to 1080p going to my capture card, BUT it's bypassed for the TV output... so I see what I'm supposed to see on the TV, while the capture card is getting the scaled image. The only thing that I have to be careful with is to be sure I switch the HDMI input BEFORE I switch the Framemeister to HDMI. If I feed the Framemeister its own image, it hates it, and sometimes I can't get it to respond to remote commands again until I turn it off and fix the inputs again. It's a bit of an odd situation, but it does work for me!
"The only thing that I have to be careful with is to be sure I switch the HDMI input BEFORE I switch the Framemeister to HDMI." Thank you for the clarification. Much appreciated!
***** What type of cable do you connect to the Framemeister? (The 8-pin port IN to the framemeister, that accepts an SCART connection). I can't seem to find it. (Which ends are male/female?)
Thanks for the follow up video guys! I had figured out most of this but the clarification was more than valuable. Plus my brand new Framemeister arrived today! What incredible timing. Try, I also noticed your MAGfest 12 shirt! I'm curious if either of you are planning on going to 13?
HalfEmpty E-Tank [Coury] ha what good timing! Be sure to lets know about your impressions. MAGFest wise, we should both be there in January. We've gone the last two years, but we'd just started MLiG when we went last year.
have you had a look at the Joytech AV Control Center JS965 for a SCART switch box? it has 4 scart, s-video, composite and optical audio in. Sadly that's not going to cover the 5 consoles you have running via SCART but maybe the ps2 could be run via component? worth considering ever way.
Something else to note, SCART switchers can be a pain in my experience. Used quite a few any they've always had a negative effect on image quality. Dunno if the Framemeister would sort that out though. The thing with SCART cables is that they're rarely super sturdy so constantly pulling them in and out of sockets can damage them eventually. I've had a few where the metal frame part around the pins has plain come away from the housing. Those are damn fine set ups you have though. I can't imagine how many cables you have going on around the back of the TVs. I need to tidy mine up. It's so knotted up that I'm pretty sure it's gonna burst into flames someday.
[Try4ce] I'm currently evaluating another SCART switcher right now, though I believe I may need different cables to get the desired results. All of the different types of SCART cables is certainly a source of confusion and frustration for me. In the process of getting this switcher properly integrated into my setup, I'm hoping to learn a ton more about how SCART works, how cables are wired, and what kinds of choices to make. If I can break through to a new level of understanding of SCART, I'd really like to make a video demystifying the whole thing, because the information out there is pretty difficult to get a handle on.
There's a lot of nonsense regarding quality. Generally getting a 21 pin cable with gold plating helps. The Framemeister probably deals with any effect noise has on the image quality, which would normally just be a little added fuzziness. SCART was the standard for us here in the UK. S-Video is something I've never used but I always thought that was the best at the time from what i knew.
Are you guys experienced with PEXHDCAP? I'm pretty happy with 1-chip Super Famicom via RGB through Sync Strike to PEXHDCAP if you judge by video quality, but I have problems with this 7-pin miniDIN connector that's supposed to be the audio input via breakout cable. It's just that apparently some common composite + 2x audio RCA to 7-pin doesn't transfer audio at all. The card used to come with a component + 2 RCA audio breakout cable but those are in my experience impossible to find online (apparently any kind of component + 2 audio cables) so I thought to ask you as RGB/retro gaming/capturing experts if you have some tips or ideas, generally knowledge about these connections and where to get a suitable cable. Thanks in advance!
Lol I'm probably weird but I've watched this whole series like 5 times because it's so interesting and the videos are some of the most well made videos I've ever seen so kudos to you
[Coury] thanks so much! We love hearing comments like this!
My Life in Gaming (Coury) the Xbox One has an HDMI out and HDMI in.
Michael Wilson I love my life in gameing
Crazy! My name is Mike Wilson too. I was just leaving a comment above and saw you. Lol.
Anyone else know the feeling you get when you start watching videos about something you want to get into, and in your stomach you can feel, "oooh im gonna spend a lot of money aren't i" yeah thats how these good ass engaging videos make me feel this all started cuz i bought a gameboy player and now i have entered this rabbit hole because of you guys. Thank you.
I've had several SCART switches over the years. Unless it has a mains power booster, I wouldn't even bother using one as it culminates in a much darker picture.
I can relate to the small setup space
Thank you so much for your swift reply. Honestly speaking, the way you and game sack output the video quality is the reason why I wanted to return to the retro gaming scene. Keep up the great work, guys.
I need to find a cheap place to get scart k'nables and k'nectars. I might attempt to make a switchbox.
You guys are awesome. I bought the Framemeister shortly after watching your first video and now have it happily in my home! This follow up video was great, especially with the clean visuals showing your setups, sort of like blueprints. I must say you guys have more clear and concise instructions and advice out there compared to any other site or blog and deserve every comment and thumbs up you get.
TehMonitor Thanks! Yeah, that was the main thing we set out to do. While there is a lot of info out there, most of it is not put together in the most easy to understand way.
With these videos, we wanted to present this information in a way that anyone can do it. Its a fairly dense topic, and when spending that kind of money you want to get as much info as possible.
OMG you've put the contents of this playlist in viewing order. I love you for this.
I'm always stoked about how in-depth you guys go with your videos. _So_ appreciative and thorough, covering all possible bases and potential questions. Kickass video as always!
I seriously can't get enough of these retro console videos
Zidane Steiner [Coury] Glad you like them and thanks for your support!
These videos are so addictive. Love these guys
So when are we getting MLiG branded SCART k'nables???
These gaming setups are INSANE. Wow! Just wow!
I found your channel through Bad Luck Bootsy's post about your original RGB video, and I've got to say this is a great channel. This is information I'd never seen anywhere else. You've got a new sub
What a great series of videos guys! I've learned a lot about hooking everything up properly and made me think about how I want my setup to be. Thanks a ton from Mexico. =)
The editing in this video is on point!
[Try4ce] Glad you think so, this video is quite old and a bit embarrassing to us at this point! Our newer stuff is much better, we hope!
I’m watching this playlist for the 5th time. I love it. The one thing I don’t get though, with your continually set up setup, what about controller cords? You just have them hanging high or way off to the side?
[Try4ce] I don't leave controllers always hooked up. I keep them in ziplock bags and take them out when needed.
I might have said it before but: "Scart Canables" must be the outtake of the last decade!
I can't believe I didn't discover your channel earlier...... why haven't any of the bigger retro gaming channels mentioned you?? High quality videos and grade-A content 100%!!!
These are really well done videos. While I'm not really a retro gamer it's really cool to see all of the video output technical info.
thanks for sharing, this video series is very helpful before I try to get RGB signals from my old consoles. I used to think I knew a bit about video and audio signal, but I had no idea how complicated it can get! The setup diagrams shown are incredibly complex but offer some great ideas.
You can get scart switchers easy in the UK for many years, even today. They are also cheap. You can get them through Ebay or Amazon if you order internationally. It's not recommended to keep switching/swapping scart cables each time you play a different system. The scart cables will wear out very quickly, so you end up buying more cables.
If you are still looking for a scart switcher you may want to consider the Bandridge SCART Auto Switchbox ( VSB7735 ) It's the one i use on the mini. It looks a little bulky but it has most of the properties you desire from a scart switch. It has five SCART inputs and one output. All inputs are isolated from each other so no interference. You have two versions of this switch. The purely manual and the automatic+manual version. Using the automatic+manual version the scart switch automatically switches input signals but also allows you to manually select an input using a button on the front. It's externally powered using 12V/500mAh.
First off all. Thank you so much for this wonderful inspiring and interesting video! I am currently getting my stuff together to be able to play mostly Nintendo consoles on my HD television and appreciate it that you are giving that much of information out to people like me. I am seriously greatful for this! I hope that both of you can fullfill your desires to complete your setups and having fun with retro gaming (:3) Greetings from Germany!
I wish you guys would link the cables and such you reference in the description.. very hard to find sometimes.
For all cable needs in the US, definitely go with Retro Access.
Affiliate link: retro-access.com?aff=4
Non Affiliate: retro-access.com
Ayy thanks, I'm sitting here diving through eBay pages to find the FrameMeister SCART adapter. Do you recommend the powered one, or is the passive one good enough?
We both have the powered one that has the sync stripper built in. It saves you from some potential headaches in the long run.
Perfect, thanks dudes!
@@EposVox sup
I've got about 15 homecomputers and consoles attached to 4 Bandridge 5-way scart switchboxes linked to each other. No interference whatsoever, despite some bad behaving systems. I use these quite a while now, I've got them for about €35. These switchboxes automatically detect input and switch accordingly. I've got also a version that mechanically switches for about €20.
I highly recommend the automatically switching version if you have a collection. Just turning your console on without any fuss will make you smile every time.
u guys r so badass better than all the other retro channels i watch ..keep it up bros 👍 u guys should have thousands n thousands of more subscribers !!!
Hey, I've been catching up on this channel for the last month or so as I'm preparing my own retro setup... and I thought the music sounded familiar! Thanks guys! Keep it up :D
Some people tend to forget that the hi-res mode with expansion pack games for N64 will support 480i just like the Dreamcast. There are even a few PS1 and Sega Saturn games with 480i like Tekken 3, Tobal 1 and 2, Decathlon and Virtua Fighter 2 (the 60 fps games).
So RGB to Compenent can be really nice on an EDTV (480p capable CRT) or an HDTV CRT that goes up to 1080i, but converts 240p and 480i into a stable 480p with little to almost no lag. PS2, Dreamcast, Xbox, Gamecube (even more with 480p mode from the consoles settings) look great on HD CRTs like a Toshiba HF series and Sony FD series from 2002-2006. I am using a Toshiba HF72 36" for those consoles with component video. I use my 2003 Sony Trinitron SD CRT for all of my classic games consoles, also through component video (S-video with my Turbo Duo and N64).
Well, just thank you, thank you, thank you. Exactly filled in the gaps that I needed!
If you buy a SCART switcher, make sure it actually carries the RGB signals. About ten years ago I bought one that only carried the composite+audio. Ended up buying a more expensive one later.
I just got into your guys' videos but I'm so glad I have. You've given me lots to look into.
Good god, beast setup! Thanks for the videos!
Thank you for this.
Enviable setups! Wow!
I'm using an older model of the Extron MPS I got off ebay for $20 as a switch. It handles 12 devices (4 VGA, 4 Composite, and 4 S-Video). If you're not afraid of making custom adapters, you can use it to switch SCART through the VGA ports or you can look at Extron's other switches, but you have to get lucky to find them unless you're a dealer.
Great video! I can recommend the Bandridge 5 port SCART switcher. Just get the manual switcher, the XRGB Mini doesn't have pinout to recognise auto-switching anyway. I use two of these daisy-chained myself.
I had a few scart switchers in France back then. Never those were rare. I live in Houston now but I should check if my mom still has some :P
Thank you Tryce for all your info! Btw, I no longer feel as though my "outdated" receiver is inadequate considering that you have the same one!
The bandridge automatic 5 to 1 (or 4 to 2 actually) is an excelent scart switcher. I use two of them daisy-chained using two outputs (tv and capture card) and there is no quality loss or color difference. Plus you get the convenience of auto-switching, with both RGB and analog composite.
Gorgeous setup Corey, this works for me :)
I have a powered 4 port RGB SCART auto switcher that switches between my PS2, SNES, Mega Drive II and N64. The SCART switcher just detects which console is powered last and switches to it, even though my N64 is not RGB modded and only outputting PAL composite video it still works fine. I have also noticed that it filters the signal before it reaches my computer monitor so output from the Mega Drive looks clean.
The switcher was bought 5 years ago and seems to be somewhat rare.
I just really love your videos guys! :)
Wait 6:10 but why do some ps3 systems have or iirc in another video from metal jesus rocks channel it show the ps3 showing up in the menu/system settings the region option/select for what region of ps1 discs to allow at a given time an for the models that are equipped with ps2 disc capability also but even the on an off option for hdcp over hdmi?
I don't know if they are still available, but the company "Madcatz" produced a scart switch-box a few years ago. I purchased a few at the time. They are all black with clear "bumper" ends and gaming\Madcatz logos. It reads Item:6013 , RGB System Scart Selector on the bottom and has 4 inputs\ 1 output ( all scart obviously ) with a small 4 position sliding switch on the front. They were specifically designed for gaming and are the only type that I know of. Standard types can at best cause interference. Worst case scenario, slight differences in pinouts can fry a system! I have been using these Madcatz switchers to switch between my 13 different systems for years now with no degradation of picture or crosstalk and advise their products if found.
As far as SCART switches go, I have the Hama 100S and have had no issues at all with any of my systems (and you know there are quite a few of those), but it's only good for 3 consoles at a time.
The Bandbridge seems to be the new gold standard, though. I was considering one until I read about your experiences with it in these comments. So weird. I'm going to wait until that gets sorted.
Since you already have the Framemeister with D-terminal input, you should get the D-terminal cable for the Gamecube. Much cheaper and enables progressive scan exactly as the official component cables do.
I started with a cheaper SCART to HDMI scaler, around 50-60 bucks. It doesn't have the features or the quality of the framemeister, but it still looks pretty damn brilliant I'd say. My Saturn has never looked this great. Beyond happy with this purchase.
Coury, another reason you should have your Wii hooked up is that it can play your Gamecube games at 480p. It is true that a 480p GC game through Wii component cables have *slightly* less detail and color clarity than through a Gamecube component cable, but considering the massive cost of GC component cables, the games through Wii component cables are perfectly acceptable for the price. Much less expensive, and almost as good.
True, you won't be able to use the Game Boy Player with it, and until you get Gamecube component cables, that's really all the Gamecube will be good for, but why play at s-video when a simple solution is right there, not being hooked up?
ShogunGino But he connected his Gamecube with Component...
Wii 480p looks worse than rgb through 240p on an 800 line pvm
For the Scart Switch you can look for "Multi Peritel" or "Switch Peritel" and you can find this on french web site. In France Scart=Peritel
Awesome videos. Thank you guys!
The diagrams look so cool.
One day I hope to have a nice setup like that, and probably a CRT for light gun games. I miss playing the original Time Crisis.
Don't know if it's much help to anyone stateside, but here in the UK I've got a B-Tech Quattro scart switch which is pretty awesome. It's active, so it boosts the RGB signal rather than degrading it and it's a nice looking set top box which wouldn't look out of place sat next to a bunch of hi-fi gear. Only cost me £10 off eBay, used of course. They stopped making them around the turn of the century. I've got the BT941 model which is great, but I'd like to get the BT945 model because it's a bit better (or so I've read).
Keep up the great videos, respect.
I like your magfest shirt, also btw thanks for cc. love all your episodes
Clear and to the point.
[Try4ce] Also very outdated! Check out the more recent entries in our series for more up to date gaming setup hardware and ideas!
Yeah that went completely over my head. 😂
*"SCART K'NABLES KINECTED!"*
I have a question about those HDMI switchers and splitters: how about lag? I thought this kind of equipment implemented lag.
[Try4ce] Nah, they won't. :)
Thanks! I'll check those switchers, that would help me a lot!
Gotta get me some of them SCART k'nables!
Would you guys like a lengthy description as to why I think you should still have a regular Wii hooked up? I've experimented a lot with the console, and I find just using the Wii U isn't always the way to go. (Incoming wall of text)
I highly recommend soft modding your Wii so that it is able to play games off a usb device plugged into its second usb port. I have a 500 GB portable hard drive in mine, and with the USB Loader GX app installed on my Wii, I can install my entire Wii collection right onto the hard drive. Since you need a program on your PC called the WBFS Loader to format the hard drive to use Wii iso files, you can also use it to install PAL and Japanese iso files that you can find in various places online, and play them, bypassing region encoding. You can set the PAL iso files to be forced into 60hz, so they always play, and it works well. So, if there was a Japanese game localized in English, but never brought to North America, this is a way to get around that. It's also how you can play games that have English fan patches put on them. Don't like the atrocious dub for Arc Rise Fantasia? There's the undub iso for that.
Furthermore, this method reduces load times a bit. Not as much as a fat PS2 with a memory card that has Free McBoot to play games off an IDE hard drive (which I also recommend), but still notable. This isn't much of an issue with most games, but it's really useful for games that are large enough to be on dual layer DVDs. Games like Super Smash Bros Brawl, Xenoblade Chronicles, and The Last Story make the Wii constantly re-read parts of the disc, causing lots of noise and potentially making the system die. On a hard drive, there is no disc involved, and the laser goes unused, keeping it intact.
One of the best surprises that I got from playing off a hard drive is that it is somehow easier on your HDTV's scaler, improving the video quality. My friend and I compared Xenoblade Chronicles playing it off the disc, and playing it off the hard drive, and we both noticed a significant improvement in edge smoothness, color clarity, and detail sharpness, all of which looked better than how Wii games look when played on a Wii U, and there was no difference in video resolution. The same TV settings and component cable were used at 480p. It also helps iron out scan lines a bit in games that are known to have them, like the Zelda games. I find that playing these games on the Wii U, regardless of HDMI or component, causes black artifacts to appear, or they just sharpen the jagged edges of character models without actually improving them.
However, not all games can be played this way. It seems to have the most trouble with compilation games, where you have to choose which game you want at the main menu. The Kirby Collection, Metroid Prime Trilogy, and Back to the Future The Game are examples. Other regular games like Sakura Wars and Prince of Persia: Forgotten Sands for Wii don't work like this either. Such games are usually better played on the Wii U.
I say 'usually', because some of those games let you use a Gamecube controller, and the Wii U doesn't support that controller, except for Smash Bros 4 Wii U. If you prefer using a Gamecube controller for those games, playing the disc on the Wii is the best option. I've seen third party adapters that plug into a Wiimote that you can plug a Gamecube controller into, and it fools the Wiimote into thinking its a Classic Controller, but I've heard they have 1 frame of input lag. I can't confirm, since I've never had one.
Now, one thing I must mention is that the improved video quality DOES NOT translate into captured footage, it only affects how it looks on the TV. I have an Avermedia capture card, and I tested recording Wii games off disc and off the hard drive, and the recording quality was identical. If you want to record Wii footage, and you can't use a Gamecube controller, record off disc on the Wii U.
For recording Wii games off the Wii U, I recommend using component at 720p, instead of HDMI. I've found that HDMI footage turns out with desaturated colors, though the edges appear to be *slightly* better. Component at 1080p is also *slightly* better than component at 720p, but its very negligible, and not worth the extra space taken up on your hard drive when recording. Now, the HDMI desaturated issue can be fixed with adding saturation back to the footage in your video editor, which can make it look identical to component footage, but if you don't want to bother, then go for component first.
Now, it is possible to install and use the USB Loader GX app on your Wii U, because of the Wii mode, and it can possibly be better this way because you have higher resolutions to work with, but I don't recommend it at this point. Wii U modding is still in its infancy, and its likely that other, better ways will be made at a later date.
In summary, if you just want to play Wii games, use a modded Wii with a hard drive.
If you want to record Wii games, use a Wii U with component at 720p.
[coury] whoa! Huge detail here. Super through and in depth. Thank you!
That's super interesting about the way the TV handles it - when we get to the Wii episode we'll dig in and test all this stuff.
I know about but haven't gotten too into hard drive style mods for the Wii and PS2 but it's absolutely something I'll look into.
Currently I do use my Wii U for Wii games but have a set of component cables that I use for my original that I could move over. I have always felt they looked off with HDMI but I haven't played any Wii games recently so I just didn't think about it.
But thank you so much for this. It gives us lots of stuff to get into when we get to the Wii RGB vid.
*****
If you want a tutorial on how to get USB Loader GX, watch the youtube tutorial by HighTeckMan. I followed his instructions, and it worked for me. If you go to http ://wiki. gbatemp.net/ wiki/ USB_Game_Compatibility_Table, you'll see an incomplete, but mostly useful list of games that work with USB Loader GX. Just remove the spaces for the link.
Playing PS2 games off the hard drive is great as the load times are drastically reduced, since you use a PS2 internet adapter to connect the hard drive (placed in the expansion bay) to the console itself. You *can* play games off a hard drive through USB for the slim PS2, but I don't recommend it since the PS2 uses USB 1.0, and its load times are much longer than playing it off disc. Again, not all PS2 games work off a hard drive, but about 93 percent do.
Unlike the Wii, I do not notice a change in video output when playing PS2 games off the hard drive.
I'd like to point out that my HDTV is a Vizio, and its Sharpness adjustment scale is VERY good. None of that bad ghost filtering crap for me. I keep the sharpness at max (0 is lowest, 8 is neutral, 16 is max) on all my input settings, so that also affects my Wii video display.
One last thing, I think RGB will only be of use to the Wii if you're a PAL Wii owner. First, because only PAL Wii's are wired for RGB. Second, because all Wii games have progressive scan, 480p through component is perfectly adequate. The only benefit I can see is to games that have a lot of scan lines, like the Zelda games. The scan lines are caused by setting the console to output 480p, and the HDTV scaler trying to fill in "empty spaces" to match the progressive setting. Setting the Wii to 480i gets rid of the scan lines on these games, but dulls the colors and blurs the edges and details. For these games only do I see RGB scart to Framemeister being a boon.
I have a framemeister cable with sync stripper built in which was necessary to get stable image from my snes and mega drive. Unfortunately the Voltage drop on longer cables and/or through scart switcher means it doesnt work so I had to remove all extensions and the switcher.. Your milage may vary though.
It's weird to see a video from them, before the Gscart was invented. "There are no good scart switchers out there. Whatever shall we do?"
SCART K'NABLES!
Can we shut down all other tech advice youtube accounts and just have yours? You're pretty much answering all the questions I ever seem to have.
Next question... Audio tips maybe?
[Try4ce] I'm not as proficient with audio as I'd like to be, but I do quickly go over how my audio gets to my speakers and mixer. Certain aspects of my audio setup are also in flux right now, but if I feel really satisfied with what I have at some point, I might share it!
Also I hope you guys get a Neo Geo AES sometime to your collection, by far the best arcade gaming experience ever in my life.
+Joél Bernabel [Coury] I'd love an AES but I think I'm gonna go with an Omega consolized MVS for when I get into Neo Geo. We will however, be doing a Neo Geo RGB episode in the next several months.
+My Life in Gaming Id recommend getting a cheap mvs board, a supergun board from arcadeforge and hookup a Pc power supply to it. It has the neo geo controller ports, scart female connector and has the same 4 pin molex connector that IDE hard drives used to have. Sure, you need something to mount it on, but its gonna be a lot cheaper than an Omega.
I'm sure that Space Harrier machine takes up a ton of your limited space, but I'd call it 100% worth it. I am supremely envious
9:24
"Up top is an N64 hooked up via S-Video"...........that doesn't appear to be plugged in.
Thank you! This is so good!
I have the 8 pin din rgb scart cable from Europe for my Sega Master System as it provides rgb natively. I found a scart to HDMI upscaler called Elephas on eBay. It's a plug in and provide 800/600 at 60 megahertz with no noticeable lag and fantastic picture and Fm sound. $40.
You can actually hook the dreamcast up to the RGB-mini using VGA over a scart cable using a sync combiner. The VGA signal is 31hz RGBHV. The RGB-mini however does not support the HV part. But it does support the 31hz RGB over the SCART port. If you use a sync combiner to make the signal RGBC ( RGB combined signal ) you can then feed it into the mini and get a 480p signal on the mini. But even if you don't want to go this route, there is no excuse for s-video. RGB cables for the dreamcast are not that hard to find.
+Jerred Zoll Yeah, that is the setup i use right now as well. I noticed they even released a new version with 4 switches instead of the 3 i have. Maybe i'll give that one a try as well. I didn't know about the Toro back then. But it is a masterpiece. What it does is in essence the same. It takes the VGA signal and combines the the sync channels before outputting it over the SCART output. But it is much less hassle to get perfect and adds more features as well ( like switching VGA/RGB and scanlines ). I love it quite a bit.
Auto switching scart cables are available for £5 off ebay. I currently use these for most of my retro systems. I don't' think they degrade the quality but I may be wrong - I'm not using a framemeister myself.
Love your videos!!
You guys should look into the Hana (or is it Hanna?) SCART switcher sold on Ebay. It is very cheap and actually has excellent reviews. I have one myself and I cannot see any noticeable picture quality loss or interference at all due to it being completely mechanical and is just a straight pass through unit. It is definitely the best budget switcher out there bar none. The only drawback is that it only has 3 SCART inputs, but it's certainly better than nothing.
What was the name of the song used during Coury's portion of the video? Starting at 6:39?
Amazing video!
wow so jealous!!! great set up
Gotta recommend the bandridge scartswitcher aswell. Running 15 systems through a network of these without any complaints. Havnt added the framemeister to the mix yet but cant imagine with would have any bad effect
Daniel Lubner [Coury] So we've both experimented with the Bandridge. Try was having issues because certain system that were plugged into input 5 would receive a little power when another system was on. It was really bizarre - the power light on the Genesis would turn on when it was plugged into slot 5 if you turned on a system in another slot - and would also only work in that slot to boot. So deciding not to risk damage to the system over time, we decided not to recommend it right now.
However! I found a little guide on the unit recently where you can cut a trace on the board inside the switcher and it prevents this from happening. So I opened mine up and did it, and I seem to be having no problems at all. So we might have a solution (its just really hard to get the unit open!).
***** hmm havnt noticed that. Then again all the stuff has just been plugged back in together a few days ago. Gotta look into it. Didnt sound to good.
You can read a little about it in this thread. The mod I did is on the first page towards the middle shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=48460
Great video series, guys. I recently took the plunge on getting a Framemeister recently, and did have a couple of questions:
(1) Are you guys going to go into the newer updates on the Framemeister? It looks like Micomsoft recently updated the firmware to 2.00, and the JunkerHQ wiki doesn't have any information past 1.10.
(2) Both of you are dealing with Japanese devices, which generally use a 100V adapter, while US power sockets generally output 110V or 120V. This isn't just the Framemeister - the A/V Famicom Jr. and the PC Engine Duo-R also have this issue. Are you using step-up/step-down transformers to cover the issue, or do you have adapters that can receive voltages from the gamut (e.g. 100V-240V)? I think my Framemeister came with an adapter that does this.
[Coury] I've updated to the 2.0 firmware and really like it. I haven't gotten too deeply into it yet though. I'm probably going to wait for the experts to make profiles instead of making my own. In order to make this series the best source of info on the subject (in video form), we intend on doing point updates for episodes that might need them. For instance I can see us doing a 301.1 for this down the road. "Patches," if you will.
The voltage issue, we're not currently using anything - but my PC engine uses a U.S. Genesis 2 ac adapter so I'm safe with that. I'm not sure what Try uses on his AV Famicom though.
We're both also using our stock ac adapters for the framemeister. I've looked into getting an correct US adapter for mine, but haven't. I heard that newer units include a variable voltage adapter that solves this problem. I wonder if they sell these official adapters by themselves...
1:57 I have been thinking, ¿what combination of Quality image profile do you get if you get an adapter that goes from HDMI to VGA with the Framemeister despite you may not get any audio sound ?
[Try4ce] This can be an interesting result, but the Framemeister is not the first device I would choose for this purpose. The OSSC or RetroTINK-2X would be better suited to this kind of task due to their output resolutions. There's also the GBS8200, which outputs VGA natively, and has more recently been modified to be much better than it normally is. We're gonna do a video on it soon.
@@mylifeingaming Thanks guys.
Nice goodwill pickup. Thrift stores are great places for cheep finds. There will proably be nothing but you never know.
good video! gives me an idea on what to get now.
7:03 What is that tower/rack called? I wanna do an Ebay search or at least know the name so I can ask for it on a hardware store or something.
Oh yeah an rgb input on the framemeister is great for my rgb systems,since all other convertors lack rgb input,because of costs reasons,i wonder if this device could take care about pal systems aswell as ntsc systems too,because i want to make sure that it process those images correctly in order to ansure good picture quality with minimum lag as possible.
You need to get that gamecube modded with hdmi on the digital video out! Things to search for would be gcvideo fpga.
;) ruclips.net/video/hVX81e6Ig-s/видео.html
Hey, My Life in Gaming.
You mention using an AV Receiver as a HDMI-hub of sorts. Some/most of these AV Receivers feature its own upscaling device.
I, myself, own an older Harman/Kardon AV receiver. It features the DCDi by Faroudja. There's not a lot of information (?) regarding this processor, atleast not that I've found, and what I've read is that it is good (at least at upscaling video).
How well does this DCDi Faroudja, or any AV receiver, in upscaling games compared to the markets best (RetroTink 5X, OSSC, etc.) ?
Thanks for the answer!
What's the song you used at 10:53, I really like it.
3 years late, but I'm upset they didn't attribute it.
Zircon - Just Hold On zirconstudios.bandcamp.com/album/identity-sequence
Was one of my favourite albums for a while
Just found your channel. Very helpful. Subscribed
I have the same kinivo HDMI switcher. It works great.
Thank you so much for posting all of your RGB modded systems and the results with the framemeister!
I subscribed just because I want to see if you ever find a solution to the manual switching of SCART cables.
Amazing video!
[Try4ce] We've actually both been doing some stuff with SCART switching, but still need a bit more time with the devices before we feel confident in sharing our results, or making any recommendations.
Hey my life in gaming you guys are misleading these good people into buying unnecessary equipment!!!! All anyone needs to do this a retron 5 and you can use nes ,sens ,genesis, famacaoin, game boy , game boy color, and game boy advanced in hd on your tv and you can use pre-built in cheat codes ,can use save states , and has controler 2 ports for nes ,snes ,and genesis controlers !!!! I swear you guys are guys are sponsoring your own business of falsely useful game console tv cables!!!!!!!
*****
I've been thinking about the switch box solution, and I believe it should be possible to use an existing component gaming switch box via making an 8-pin mini-din Framemeister cable that has male RCA jacks on the other end of Right audio, Left audio, CSYNC (use yellow), Red, Green, and Blue. Then from there, you'd have to make all your console RGB cables have male RCA jacks on the other end this same way. Then you'd just simply plug them into the passive gaming switchbox, using yellow for CSYNC and of course R,G,B for the same colors there. The only problem is this would of course require modifying all your cables, but in theory should work perfectly.
Victoria vigeick
A retron 5 is merely a collection of emulators in one box, not the actual hardware. Many enthusiasts (like myself) want the real hardware. Thus, there is no 'misleading' going on here at all. If emulation is your thing, then by all means go for it, but nothing beats the accuracy of having the real hardware.
That doesn't make any sense at all!!!
A model 1 Genesis with the SEGA CD and Sega 32X with a Game Genie and Sonic 3 and Knuckles. Dat tower!
you should try the vga adapter for the dreamcast which looks awesome if you also get a vga to hdmi adapter
Loved your video and your setup of consoles. I wanna know what's the game you got on screen at 5:50 to 5;54 .
[Try4ce] That's Bionic Commando Rearmed! Available digitally on PS3, 360, and PC. One of the best remakes of last generation!
Super cool setups. I plan on setting up a sega genesis model 2 with a sega cd and a N64 so I would use this as a guide.
[Try4ce] Don't use this as a guide because it's super out of date and the Framemeister is discontinued (and very expensive now). Look into some of our later videos where we feature OSSC, RetroTINK 2X series, and the RetroTINK 5X.
@@mylifeingaming Oh ok. I've heard great things about the retrotink 5x so I'll look into that. Thanks for the info.
At 5:34, there appears to be a "loop" as far as the HDMI connections go between the HDMI Switcher / Framemeister and HDMI Splitter.
Is this intentional? It's confusing me quite a bit right now.
[Try4ce] Good observation! You're absolutely right... there is a loop, and it's pretty weird. Coury doesn't have a loop. Everything he plays goes through the Framemeister, including modern HDMI-based consoles. This isn't really a problem, because he can choose HDMI pass-through in the Framemeister settings and the image will go through unprocessed (no reason to add additional processing or lag to HD consoles, but the systems are sent through the Framemeister for the purpose of capture... it just consolidates everything to go into the TV or capture card without the need to swap HDMI cables on the capture end).
But I don't do this. So why do I use the loop? Well, the main reason is that I stream a lot more often than Coury does. My OBS (free broadcast software) scene settings are expecting 1080p input. If it's receiving 720p from say, a PS3 game, then things are gonna be a bit screwed up in OBS. It's not so much a problem if all you're doing is just playing or doing a regular recording. So this way, if the game is outputting 720p, the Framemeister upscales it to 1080p going to my capture card, BUT it's bypassed for the TV output... so I see what I'm supposed to see on the TV, while the capture card is getting the scaled image. The only thing that I have to be careful with is to be sure I switch the HDMI input BEFORE I switch the Framemeister to HDMI. If I feed the Framemeister its own image, it hates it, and sometimes I can't get it to respond to remote commands again until I turn it off and fix the inputs again. It's a bit of an odd situation, but it does work for me!
"The only thing that I have to be careful with is to be sure I switch the HDMI input BEFORE I switch the Framemeister to HDMI."
Thank you for the clarification. Much appreciated!
***** What type of cable do you connect to the Framemeister? (The 8-pin port IN to the framemeister, that accepts an SCART connection). I can't seem to find it. (Which ends are male/female?)
Thanks for the follow up video guys! I had figured out most of this but the clarification was more than valuable. Plus my brand new Framemeister arrived today! What incredible timing.
Try, I also noticed your MAGfest 12 shirt! I'm curious if either of you are planning on going to 13?
HalfEmpty E-Tank [Coury] ha what good timing! Be sure to lets know about your impressions.
MAGFest wise, we should both be there in January. We've gone the last two years, but we'd just started MLiG when we went last year.
have you had a look at the Joytech AV Control Center JS965 for a SCART switch box? it has 4 scart, s-video, composite and optical audio in. Sadly that's not going to cover the 5 consoles you have running via SCART but maybe the ps2 could be run via component? worth considering ever way.
Am I the only only that noticed at 8:03 that Corey putting in the NES game and turning the system on is reversed footage?
Something else to note, SCART switchers can be a pain in my experience. Used quite a few any they've always had a negative effect on image quality. Dunno if the Framemeister would sort that out though. The thing with SCART cables is that they're rarely super sturdy so constantly pulling them in and out of sockets can damage them eventually. I've had a few where the metal frame part around the pins has plain come away from the housing.
Those are damn fine set ups you have though. I can't imagine how many cables you have going on around the back of the TVs. I need to tidy mine up. It's so knotted up that I'm pretty sure it's gonna burst into flames someday.
[Try4ce] I'm currently evaluating another SCART switcher right now, though I believe I may need different cables to get the desired results. All of the different types of SCART cables is certainly a source of confusion and frustration for me. In the process of getting this switcher properly integrated into my setup, I'm hoping to learn a ton more about how SCART works, how cables are wired, and what kinds of choices to make. If I can break through to a new level of understanding of SCART, I'd really like to make a video demystifying the whole thing, because the information out there is pretty difficult to get a handle on.
There's a lot of nonsense regarding quality. Generally getting a 21 pin cable with gold plating helps. The Framemeister probably deals with any effect noise has on the image quality, which would normally just be a little added fuzziness. SCART was the standard for us here in the UK. S-Video is something I've never used but I always thought that was the best at the time from what i knew.
Awesome vid as always! I need to save money for a Framemeister...
Are you guys experienced with PEXHDCAP? I'm pretty happy with 1-chip Super Famicom via RGB through Sync Strike to PEXHDCAP if you judge by video quality, but I have problems with this 7-pin miniDIN connector that's supposed to be the audio input via breakout cable.
It's just that apparently some common composite + 2x audio RCA to 7-pin doesn't transfer audio at all. The card used to come with a component + 2 RCA audio breakout cable but those are in my experience impossible to find online (apparently any kind of component + 2 audio cables) so I thought to ask you as RGB/retro gaming/capturing experts if you have some tips or ideas, generally knowledge about these connections and where to get a suitable cable.
Thanks in advance!