Man, you did immense job. So much woodworking and it looks like a factory-built piano, so smooth. I cannot even imagine how you did the sealings around the bolts. You definitely should be proud of the work done...
Thank you PD for your comment and nice words :) really apreciate it... Sealings gave me nightmares haha...it was done individually for each "face", I aplied a bead of marine adhesive on surface around the bolts and perimeter of kayak and then using a thick glass shelve (covered with food foil) as a weight to flatten it. Using glass was usefull to see what was going on beneath ;)
Excellent design. I admire it. But disassembled looks like coffin ;-) Beautiful country you have there. I love sometimes stop here and there and give feast to my eyes.
Such a good job. The hatch cover design looks fantastic. Where did you get those plastic headed nuts to screw the sections together? I have been searching for something like that to attach the akas on my sailing canoe.
Hi, thank you for the kind words. Those plastic nuts are in two parts that snap together and hold stainless steel nut inside and I got them in my local hardware shop (Bauhaus).
I'm thinking about building a similar type of wooden kayak that can be broken up into parts - any recommendations or things you'd change about the end product?
Hi there :) good question... 1. Instead of stiching with wire, I used a lot of masking tape (it worked for me) and later ca glue holds everything together 2. I remember that my "seam paste" (epoxy + fibers), was too runny at first, it has to be thic 3. I was not careful and ended up with a lot of extra epoxy gatherring at the bottom on the inside of kayak when wetting fiberglas (waste of epoxy and extra weight) 4. building in three pieces is I belive a lot harder and time consuming (you have to think about a lot of details) 5. when fiberglasing lids (back and front opening covers) be careful of warping, I ended up with a lot of warp and had to reaply fiberglas to the back lid (not a fun thing to do, when you dont want to mess up wood pattern...) 6. I was runing low on epoxy (tight budget), so I did not have enough to smooth ends of all three pieces (where pieces met together). Due to overlaping of fiberglass on the ends (but joints) the previous smooth wooden surface that met nicely, was now uneven. You can add extra epoxy and then smoth/even it out. I would probably ended up doing sealent strip anyway (which was a process in its own...) 7. sealent strip (that brown stuff you can see at 1:47) was applied and then squished with a glass panel (covered with food wraping foil (because my stuff got stuck on glass...dont ask how I know that :) ) in order to get everything flat 8. I am not proud with the seat (I recycled some old plastic garden chair, cut most of back rest and painted it), I would probably change that. I tried to get some foam that usually is used for seat carving, but it was hard to get and really expensive... 9. I am missing sealent on both lids (it is just wood on wood), because it was an after thought, but it is not an issue for calm water, which a three piece kayak will always be... There are probably more things, but this is all I could think of right now :)
Cześć Dziękuję Ci. Nadal mogę odwiązać linę i wejść do środka, kiedy tylko chcę, więc nie uważam, że są bezużyteczne. Kajak używany jest głównie na krótkie wypady, więc schowki te nie są mi specjalnie potrzebne. (To zostało przetłumaczone przy użyciu Tłumacza Google)
Thanks 👍 Original design didn't have one, and for this lake kayak I do not think it is needed (I do not have any other experience, so I do not know what I am talking about 😅)
Hi Bob, free plans and instructions for original one piece kayak are in description of this video. For this moded kayak there are not any real plans, everthing was made on the spot and by feel. Inspiration and some additional info was found here kayakplans.com/a-ganymede-in-three-sections/
I added a link to description of similar build by David Large, from which I took some inspiration, but other than that I do not have any tutorial, since I mostly just did it by trial and error (and lots of thinking) ... Link: guillemot-kayaks.com/stitch-and-glue/recreational-kayak/ganymede/guest-blog-ganymede-three-sections-david-large
Привет. В описании есть ссылки на оригинальный каяк. К сожалению, у меня нет цифровых планов для моего модифицированного каяка. www.guillemot-kayaks.com/ www.instructables.com/Making-...
I used a type of industrial adhesive that stays a little bit flexible. I put a bead of glue around the perimeter of the surface and squeezed it with a pane of glass (kinda hard to explain) which was removed when glue was set
it should only require 1 or 2 bolts just above the water line with a stiff bulkhead - no gaskets necessary. I have built one and paddled it. Front module nests inside middle module
it might be a little bit overengineered, but I did not know exactly what I was doing (also being my first "boat"). I would love to see some pictures of your build...there were not many to be found of this kind anyway
I was thinking about magnets, but the hatches were a bit warped, so I needed something stronger. And I do not like the look of bungee on the outside (if that is what you meant)
@@tilenmoder I was thinking of using it completely internally. Once attached it pulls the hatch down. To remove the hatch lift it up and unhook the bungee cord. the cord could be attached to bottom of the hull and stretched up to the cover or strung sideways a few inches below the opening and hooked on that way too. Either way it hooks on underneath the hatch. In fact, with the bottom of the hull mount you don't really have to unhook the hatch, simply lift it and slide it sideways out of the way, (depending on how large the item is being inserted or removed). It's easy to think of these things when you see the completed item. kind of like watching someone play solitaire over their shoulder. 😀
Nice work! I’m glad the design worked for you.
Thank you Nick, means a lot to hear it from you! And thank you for sharing your designs and knowledge with others 😊
Man, you did immense job. So much woodworking and it looks like a factory-built piano, so smooth. I cannot even imagine how you did the sealings around the bolts. You definitely should be proud of the work done...
Thank you PD for your comment and nice words :) really apreciate it... Sealings gave me nightmares haha...it was done individually for each "face", I aplied a bead of marine adhesive on surface around the bolts and perimeter of kayak and then using a thick glass shelve (covered with food foil) as a weight to flatten it. Using glass was usefull to see what was going on beneath ;)
This is one kayak of 3 parts very well muy answer is the model ganimedes this is fantastic good working beautiful
Like Titanic - unsinkable. It has at least 3 water-tight compartments. Please treat this as a joke :-)
Excellent design. I admire it. But disassembled looks like coffin ;-) Beautiful country you have there. I love sometimes stop here and there and give feast to my eyes.
Haha thanx 😀 especially when its stored in the basment upright 😅Slovenia is nice, we have everything to see close by...but everything is small 🥲
Отличная работа во всех отношениях.
Thanks for posting there is a real woodworker somewhere
Bravi Tilen! Zelo lepo.
fenomenalan je , stvoren za uzivanje
Love it 😍
Such a good job. The hatch cover design looks fantastic. Where did you get those plastic headed nuts to screw the sections together? I have been searching for something like that to attach the akas on my sailing canoe.
Hi, thank you for the kind words. Those plastic nuts are in two parts that snap together and hold stainless steel nut inside and I got them in my local hardware shop (Bauhaus).
Lindo Kaiak !! Parabéns, like e inscrito!
Muito obrigado :)
I'm thinking about building a similar type of wooden kayak that can be broken up into parts - any recommendations or things you'd change about the end product?
Hi there :) good question...
1. Instead of stiching with wire, I used a lot of masking tape (it worked for me) and later ca glue holds everything together
2. I remember that my "seam paste" (epoxy + fibers), was too runny at first, it has to be thic
3. I was not careful and ended up with a lot of extra epoxy gatherring at the bottom on the inside of kayak when wetting fiberglas (waste of epoxy and extra weight)
4. building in three pieces is I belive a lot harder and time consuming (you have to think about a lot of details)
5. when fiberglasing lids (back and front opening covers) be careful of warping, I ended up with a lot of warp and had to reaply fiberglas to the back lid (not a fun thing to do, when you dont want to mess up wood pattern...)
6. I was runing low on epoxy (tight budget), so I did not have enough to smooth ends of all three pieces (where pieces met together). Due to overlaping of fiberglass on the ends (but joints) the previous smooth wooden surface that met nicely, was now uneven. You can add extra epoxy and then smoth/even it out. I would probably ended up doing sealent strip anyway (which was a process in its own...)
7. sealent strip (that brown stuff you can see at 1:47) was applied and then squished with a glass panel (covered with food wraping foil (because my stuff got stuck on glass...dont ask how I know that :) ) in order to get everything flat
8. I am not proud with the seat (I recycled some old plastic garden chair, cut most of back rest and painted it), I would probably change that. I tried to get some foam that usually is used for seat carving, but it was hard to get and really expensive...
9. I am missing sealent on both lids (it is just wood on wood), because it was an after thought, but it is not an issue for calm water, which a three piece kayak will always be...
There are probably more things, but this is all I could think of right now :)
Very nice build. This should only be safe on lake though. Wouldn't trust the bolts too much in waves. Thanks for sharing, buddy!
I totaly agree, it will be used only on calm water :)
Pięknie, tylko czy takie rozwiązania mocowania bakist nie ograniczają cię w ich używaniu? A wręcz robią je nie użyteczne?
Cześć Dziękuję Ci. Nadal mogę odwiązać linę i wejść do środka, kiedy tylko chcę, więc nie uważam, że są bezużyteczne. Kajak używany jest głównie na krótkie wypady, więc schowki te nie są mi specjalnie potrzebne. (To zostało przetłumaczone przy użyciu Tłumacza Google)
Well done! 👏 What about skeg/rudder ?
Thanks 👍 Original design didn't have one, and for this lake kayak I do not think it is needed (I do not have any other experience, so I do not know what I am talking about 😅)
@@tilenmoder Skeg/Rudder helps you when wetaher is choppy
Could you please share the plan to build it?
Hi Bob, free plans and instructions for original one piece kayak are in description of this video. For this moded kayak there are not any real plans, everthing was made on the spot and by feel. Inspiration and some additional info was found here kayakplans.com/a-ganymede-in-three-sections/
Hello, I am thinking on building a kayak, do you have a tutorial for this?
I added a link to description of similar build by David Large, from which I took some inspiration, but other than that I do not have any tutorial, since I mostly just did it by trial and error (and lots of thinking) ... Link:
guillemot-kayaks.com/stitch-and-glue/recreational-kayak/ganymede/guest-blog-ganymede-three-sections-david-large
Thank you 😊
Приветствую. Очень заинтересовал ваш каяк. Можно ли получить чертежи данного проекта?
Привет. В описании есть ссылки на оригинальный каяк. К сожалению, у меня нет цифровых планов для моего модифицированного каяка.
www.guillemot-kayaks.com/
www.instructables.com/Making-...
@@tilenmoder Выдаёт ошибку при попытке открыть ссылки (((
Печально
@@IVAN_KLEMPNER www.instructables.com/Making-a-Plywood-Kayak/
guillemot-kayaks.com/
what did you use for the gaskets?
I used a type of industrial adhesive that stays a little bit flexible. I put a bead of glue around the perimeter of the surface and squeezed it with a pane of glass (kinda hard to explain) which was removed when glue was set
it should only require 1 or 2 bolts just above the water line with a stiff bulkhead - no gaskets necessary. I have built one and paddled it. Front module nests inside middle module
it might be a little bit overengineered, but I did not know exactly what I was doing (also being my first "boat"). I would love to see some pictures of your build...there were not many to be found of this kind anyway
How to attach the hatch with no latches
WHAT no magnets????
Bungee cords to suck it down?
Sorry just being knit picky.
I was thinking about magnets, but the hatches were a bit warped, so I needed something stronger. And I do not like the look of bungee on the outside (if that is what you meant)
@@tilenmoder
I was thinking of using it completely internally. Once attached it pulls the hatch down.
To remove the hatch lift it up and unhook the bungee cord. the cord could be attached to bottom of the hull and stretched up to the cover or strung sideways a few inches below the opening and hooked on that way too. Either way it hooks on underneath the hatch. In fact, with the bottom of the hull mount you don't really have to unhook the hatch, simply lift it and slide it sideways out of the way, (depending on how large the item is being inserted or removed).
It's easy to think of these things when you see the completed item. kind of like watching someone play solitaire over their shoulder. 😀