Improved DIY Foldable Kayak Gen 23-N -Free Kayak Plan
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- This is my latest update to the Gen 23 series folding kayak design.
So far, this is my best 9.5' foldable kayak design: very good handling, much faster than my other under 10 ft foldable kayak/canoe designs.
If you are interested in building one, please watch other Gen 23 videos.
I love the improvements! Thank you for sharing. It is so interesting to watch the development process of a great idea!
Glad you enjoyed it! There will still be a few minor updates to it. Another viewer has provided a few good tips in building this kayak also and I will share those ideas in the future video.
That plastic rivet idea is great. I can use that in many of my DIY projects.
I have been thinking of using the plastic rivets for a long time. That day, I was at my friend's garage building this Gen 23-N and he has a large box of plastic rivets (different kinds and sizes). We decided to tried that. It works really well.
The plastic rivet idea is great. I can use that in many DIY projects.
Very nice!!👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Your kayaks look and function great! Thank you for sharing your process and the things you’ve tried along the way. I’ve been designing a sit-on-top one person pontoon boat for lake fishing but had not found pontoon material until I saw your expert folding of the coroplast. Do you think you could use the same 6mm coroplast to make a pair of origami-style folding pontoons? You’ve inspired me to try! I just have to figure out how to fold them so they are closed on top.
Thanks for watching and your question. Yes, I have tried to build pontoon boats using coroplast. You can watch the videos of those boats.
ruclips.net/video/ILeIKBoxKZk/видео.htmlsi=JqfxcoAMqFkz19_E
ruclips.net/video/KtjaziICe9E/видео.htmlsi=wP1CnO0BpYDvEYEb
ruclips.net/video/HO-52Yays8o/видео.htmlsi=6frmVlViKeNVEVGx
ruclips.net/video/8roMckSj-ws/видео.htmlsi=GShlonmTxCK_BiuQ
After I have used my latest pontoon boat a few times (modular with foam -which I built about a month ago) and I don’t like the weight of it (35 lbs). I am thinking of building a lighter one using mostly coroplast. It will be partially foldable and will still have the metal frame to hold the pontoons together. Since I am working on another design, I will not work on this project till next year. If the height of the pontoons are 7-8" tall, I think it can handle 10-15 knots wind and the water will not get inside the pontoon that easily. My modular paddle board is only 4" tall and I tried to made it totally water tight (it is not foldable). I used it at the Pacific Coast. Water still get in but it is so minimal that I don't really worry about that (a few oz after I used it for 4 hours - it could be condensation also). Therefore I feel if the height (or freeboard) is at 7-8", I don't really need to make the pontoons fully water tight. I still need it to stay afloat in case the boat flips over. Cheers!
What material/product do you use for the black edge covering of the floor as shown in this video? Also do you have any plan drawings for the floor? Im working on a full size Gen 23 right now and its going great.
Sorry for the slow reply, I have been traveling. My friend used the Neoprene Self Adhesive tape, but I don't recommend that because it couldn't hold onto the coroplast. Because the dimension of the floor is specific to the boat you build, which various, I can't provide the exact dimensions. I have created a video which will give you an idea on the shape of the floor and you will have to adjust the dimension, mainly is the width. Please let me know if you have other questions. ruclips.net/video/owVGAtDUIs4/видео.html
I am going to built one of your Gen 23s this month. The Gen 23N seems really cool, but i'm about 185 and 6'. How did you determine that it would only be good for people under 170 and 5'9. What is the width of the original Gen 23? I'm curious how much less buoyancy Gen 23N has vs the Original Gen23
Thanks for asking such a good question. The height and weight I provided are estimations, based on the observations of different paddlers using different designs. I have a friend (6 ft tall, 200 lbs.) tried out the Gen 23 (beam 28"). It was a very comfortable fit and he really like the size. Of course, it would be even better if the boat is longer for the 6' tall person. But that design is a bit too wide (at 28") for me (5'5", 135Lbs), also the 10" high gunwale is a bit high, and I have to use a 4-5" seat. Hence, I came out with Gen 23-N, which is really nice for my body weight and height. I have a friend at around 170 Lbs. and 5'9" to tried that out, and he feel it is a right size for him. I will work out the difference in buoyancy when I return home in ten days (I am traveling). Please stay tuned!
I found the spreadsheet and these are the estimations: for Gen 23N Beam 25" , after deducted the weight of the boat, at draft 3", it can handle 164 Lbs. and 3.5" draft - 193 Lbs. For the Gen 23, Beam 28" draft 3" 185 Lbs., draft 3.5" 218 Lbs.
Saw a "diy hack" video the other day where they filled a glue gun with as many zip ties(with the heads cut off) that would fit so it gives a stream of abs plastic. Just a thought, maybe that could be "injected" into the boards for corners that wear faster. Or test it as an adhesive for panels or something?
Your screw rivet looks better than a blob of plastic though!
Thanks for your input. Hope to watch the DIY Hack video to learn something new. I believe the commercial foldable kayaks have been using plastic rivets and now I can implement that with simple tools. The abs plastic doesn't stick to coroplast hence I don't think I can use it to protect the corners, instead I use multiple layers of gorilla tape for such purpose.
Ah, good to know it doesn't stick!