I purchased the XL and have used it to make 3 beds and a woodworking bench. For the beds, I used the Domino Double-Headed Bolt Connectors for the knock-down hardware instead of bed bolts . What would have taken hours to machine was done in much less time. I don't regret buy the XL.
The Domino is great for people who enjoy designing furniture more than they necessarily like doing complex joinery. It’s definitely not necessary to make anything, but it’s great to speed things up and focus on designing and experimenting.
I've got a Domino 700 with the adapter and have had it for quite a long time. It covers everything and so far, I haven't run into any problems with the adapter. I will say this, as Mark noted, the 700 is heavy! And if you're building mostly cabinets, picture frames, small furniture pieces, the 500 would be my personal choice because hefting the 700 around does get tiring. Why buy the big one knowing (I demoed both at a local store before buying) it was so heavy? Because I build enough large projects that I knew I didn't want to be staring at a large project plan thinking that I should have bought the 700 as I only have enough cash for one.
The 799 does allow you to use the smaller bit. I'd likely take the weight and have the ability to use both the large and the small bit. If I found it to cumbersome to use it or I was using the small bit only I might sell the larger and purchase the smaller one or simply buy the smaller one for an option. I don't use them to make money, but would likely take on some projects that would make it eventually pay for itself. I'm a tool head anyway and usually don't mind having nice tools available.
In 2007 I bought the only Domino available. I saw potential and hoped it would pay for itself. Several years ago I stopped counting how many mortises I have cut. That was at 10,000 mortises. So yes it has paid for itself time and again. And I will say I am a professional furnature designer and builder. I would say for most any furnature and smaller items the 500 is going to fit the bill 99.9% of the time. Get the 700 if you are building large heavy entry doors or building with large timber. The smaller Domino is heavy enough, you don’t want to be using the larger one for small mortises when cutting hundreds at a time.
My wife and daughter love rusty metal and weathered wood. So when I make outdoor projects I don’t finish them. Saves me the finishing effort, so it makes all of us happy. EXCEPT…when people see the item a few years out and are told that I made it, I cringe. My preference would be to do the work to maintain the original character of the wood. But, as they say, happy wife, happy life!
Yes, size matters, but so do ergonomics. I am a hobbyist and made the decision to get the XL, Seneca adapter, and Ramon Valdez domino dock plan about 4 years ago. I mostly use the adapter and work with 6/4 or less material. I have required the large capacity about a dozen times. This year I had a bunch of cabinets to build and thought the 500 would be a better fit for the job and reason to own both, so I ordered it before the price increase. When it showed up, I compared them side by side, especially on the plywood carcass edges where I thought the 500 would have an advantage. I was very surprised that I liked the ergonomics and control of the 700 over the 500, especially when putting the fence on the edge of the plywood. It also seems to be a better built tool, e.g. metal offsets vs. plastic. Yes, 700 is heavier, but side by side it didn't seem that much and maybe added to feel of better control on the edge. Also, the 700 handle seems more conducive to plunging than the 500. One small detail is also the center mark on the face of the body of 700. I use it all the time. You could scratch in your own on the 500. After the side by side comparison, I sent the 500 back and built the cabinets with the 700. Unless I was a production shop using or having someone use the Domino all day long, I would recommend the 700 with the adapter. Sorry so long of reply, and know not everyone will agree with me, but I hope my experience resonates with some that are trying to choose. I find the tool worth it, but did not find owning both sizes worth it.
My old neighbor had a bunch of old grayed outdoor furniture in their flower garden. The tray worked so well there because it contrasted with the vibrance of not only the flowers but the greenery. The stone path leading to it was also mostly grey and light auburn earth tones. After seeing that I was sold on the idea of gray working in specific circumstances, but I prefer to maintain my furniture. I don't mind a patina or signs of aging, but if I wanted it to look like driftwood, I'd use driftwood to make it.
I negotiated hard on a 10' x 5' CNC and Laguna by far gave me the best deal. You are visible with the cannel so you might get an even better deal. I didn't go for their cheap line, I went for the Smartshop2 with ATC. So far happy with it.
@@Marcus_Caius You can buy a vacuum pump that will fit inside. Also available in single phase. I think Black Box Vacuum Solutions makes this. Most others will be much bigger and 3 phase power. If you call Laguna, ask for Jason and tell him Phil Stevens recommended you to him. he should take care of you.
WRT the Domino I have the XL. I'm not a professional and my (ex) wife didn't think so either. I have to keep reminding myself that the XL, as well as being bigger, is actually a better machine than the 500. It's as though Festool ironed out the design issues and made a "2.0" albeit larger. Things I'm talking about are the height adjustment which on the 500 is the thickness of the workpiece, the cruddy depth adjuster, and the lack of paddles. Also the cranky way that you change from the tight setting. If the 500 were made by DeWalt or Milwaukee nobody would notice or care. But Festool - come on. I've successfully edge jointed two pieces of 18mm MDF using the smallest standard XL cutter (8mm). Not ideal as the inserted dominos are far stronger than the MDF, but as this guy says, an adapter can be purchased to anable the use of a 4mm or 5mm cutter. The other thing is the depth of cut is immense with the XL at 70mm. I recentlly made an oak door that was 80mm thick and had 24 140mmx14mm dominos per side - all cut on the tight setting. Everything fitted EXACTLY. Glue-up was a challange and with hindisght I should have used epoxy rather than PVA. Sorry about the long comment but I really rate the XL!
Learned my woodworking at school around 1970. No power tools then, except table saw, band saw, pillar drill. So we had mortise chisels for mortices and bevel-edge for dovetails. So I bought, and still have, mortise chisels which were widely available. 30 to 40 years later, you have to find specialist stores to get mortise chisels.
What a great channel, regarding teak finish, here’s a sneaky cheat from our boat shop. 1. Clean it with methylated spirits or acetone as teak is EXTREMELY oily and if you don’t clean it then your finish doesn’t want to mingle with the wood grain. 2. Here’s the sneaky part, start with a very thin coat of 105 epoxy and let dry for 24 hours. Sand it the next day, and, because it was so much fun to do one coat, do one more, let dry for 24 hours and sand with 220. Doing two coats of epoxy seals the wood and is about the same as 4 coats of Epifanes clear varnish. 3. Now comes the truly fun part, get a tin of Epifanes clean varnish and apply a thin coat over the epoxy, let dry and sand very lightly with 360. Repeat this step 5 more times upping the grit until you’re wet sanding with 4000 and you’ll have a deep mirror finish to your bright work.
Thanks Mark. Hearing your analysis of viewer indecision clarified my uncertainty on dominos. Good idea if it satisfies a market sector such as custom tables but irrelevant for a happy hobby sawdust maker.
One consideration abt the Domino choice, consider that if you bought the 700 you (might) end up doing 80 to 90% of all your joinery with that adaptor. This may be fine but it seems silly to have a more expensive version that can’t even use the bit (w/out adaptor) for most of your work! Festool has this figured out quite well, compelling a decent percentage of their customers to buy both for more money than a very good full sized 16” bandsaw, table saw, lathe and many other industrial quality shop tools! All that said, I hope to get a 500😉
Best finishing advice I received early on was to learn how to use Shellac. Not only because each coat melts into the previous one for a smooth result, but also shellac can be reapplied later if furniture gets damaged and I need to do a repair.
Sandy, I’ve learned this as well. Some of the best furniture makers I’ve followed (Tom McLaughlan of Epic Woodworking for one) talk about how wonderful this age old finish is. Not great for a surface in danger of water, but otherwise for most furniture it’s one of the very best in bringing out the beauty of wood. Sometimes it’s used in combination with other varnishes as well like Waterlox etc but in that case I’ve heard to go with wax less shellac. I’m just a beginner when it comes to fine finishes but I’m intrigued by the many possibilities of shellac.
I have a shopbot prsalpha and it's been great. Seemed like a good compromise between power, size, and capability for the price. With a homemade vacuum hold down system I saved a bundle. Customer support has also been amazing considering I bought the machine used.
One of the main reasons I have heard for the robust sides on a mortise chisel is so it does not twist in the mortise when you pound it. With the sharp angles on the side of a bench chisel, it's easy for it to not stay straight as you dig deeper.
I have used Next Wave’s Shark HD520. I have found the software very easy to use. I have had zero issues with it in the 2+ years I have owned it. If there is a draw back it is the size. It is limited to 2’x4’ cutting size. My current shop size doesn’t allow for a larger more commercial cnc. One other item to note is that I did upgrade to a water spindle. Heat has never been an issue and the added bonus is how quiet it is vs using a router in its place.
CNC Marc, I have tried all the top (aka popular) brands of CNCs, as well as a number of my woodworking pro-maker buddies, and we all agree that the T5 from NewCNC out of Holland, Michigan, is in a class of its own. At just over 9,000 pounds, it's as stable and accurate as is possible to measure. 12-HP vacuum pump exerts over 77,000 pounds of downward holding force on a 4×8 workpiece. As a bonus, it's the largest "jointer" you'll find anywhere. Have had one for 3+ years without a single service call. Can't recommend highly enough.
If you want to understand how to use the Mortise Chisel, you might watch Rob Cosman's "Chopping a Mortise by Hand" video. The section on using the Mortise Chisel made it clear to me how the tool is supposed to work (even if I'm not going to do everything like Cosman does).
If you want to stick to non-production cncs, I'd recommend the onefinity. They have an elite model that's pretty cool. I have their x50 woodworker and it's really nice. That said the onefinity biggest size is 4x4.
I highly recommend CAMaster CNC out of Georgia. Robust frame, high quality spindles and options and great customer service. I’ve had mine for four years and it’s rock solid with high performance operation
I have an Ipe deck. The Ipe, like Teak grays out pretty quickly. About every two years I’ll rent a floor sander with some real coarse paper and use my 6” orbital for the right spots to clean it up before applying Ipe oil. It’s a real pain but it looks brand new when I’m done.
Thanks for the great information and video. Would love to see you at the router table showing us your skills specifically with flush trim bits. I have seen your other video, just wondering if you can do a refresh especially with all of the new people out here in the woodworking community that may rely on this skill. As always, thank you for your time, content and sense of humor.
Great video as always. CNC wise, maybe Shop Sabre, Laguna…. it really depends how industrial you want to go or if you want to stay closer to a hobby version. I know April Wilkerson has a big CNC shop that has come on strong over the years. Her channel would be a good resource…
Regarding outdoor furniture, we have 35 pieces, and maintenance is becoming a tremendous job. I find that simply hitting it with a pressure washer and a good deck stain in a spray bottle is the easiest way to keep it looking good and it lasts a long time here in the Texas weather,
My view on the Domino is if you are a professional shop where time really is money then the Domino may be the best choice. However, if you are a hobbyist where time is of less concern, or even a professional building smaller pieces than there are other far less expensive alternatives available. I had to do a 14' faux beam (to cover an LVL beam) with side columns out of maple veneered plywood. I used a DowelMax to strengthen and align the 3 sides of all 3 components. It took a lot of time and far more time than the Domino would have, but the results were spectacular. And it was far cheaper than buying a Domino. Thanks.
I use biscuits. For heavier structural joints, I will use 2 or more biscuits with 100% success, no failures. I also like using pocket screw joinery. Where it's hidden. Quick and strong. No clamping. I also use traditional joinery for special projects when I have time. Through dovetails are my favorite. If I am doing that much, I want the work to be seen.
Hey Marc. Great video as usual. I have a Laguna Smart Shop II. Love it for its ability to do a large volume if I need it without the price tag of the MultiCam. I’ve had the Laguna for 8 years now. Six of those it ran at least 8 hours a day, 5 days a week with no issues. The Laguna is now home at my personal shop as the volume we needed at the business has out paced the SmartShop. So now the shop I sold has three MultiCams which are work horse beasts. I guess it depends on the scale of work you plan on. I’m your area you could probably build a decent clientele on service work. I have both Dominoes and although I do some heavy stuff I really like the light weight and versatility of the 500 so it’s my go to. Plus I work in the field quite a bit. I would say though for furniture, I’m extremely happy that I picked up a PantoRouter. If you’re doing angles other than 90 degrees, yes you can use a Domino but the flexibility of a PantoRouter is hard to beat.
I build outdoor furniture with western cedar, let it grey over the year and in the spring I pressure wash them and it looks great without damaging the wood. My two cents.
Expanding the building forward and removing the large garage door may be viewed as a huge benefit because of energy. The wall space may be nice too. Just need a small single car or shed sized garage door or even large commercial double doors would be enough. Would really transform the look of the building. Space won’t be an issue for a few years anyway but who knows what the future could bring. Time and money.
Hi Marc, with regards to a CNC recommendation. I live in the uk and I took delivery Ive my first “proper” CNC in June last year. After extensive research I went with an i2R. Which I believe have there HQ in New York. I went for the b series and it’s been BRILLIANT. They have bigger more powerful models to suit different budgets. Setup time was about 1 hour, from delivery to cutting! HTH. Happy to help of you have any questions mate.
Re CNC, I have the Onefinity and love it. They are coming out w a new model called the Elite. New controller. Very interesting. Ben Myers has a great intro video to it.
Some great tips there, Marc! Thanks! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊 BTW, the only thing getting in my way right now is the weather... It's too freaking hot here in Brazil and I don't have an AC in my shop... Yet.
I ordered the new Onefinity with the Masso controller. Should be arriving in a month or two. I can report on it once I receive it. There’s already a few other influencers with an early release who have positive feedback on it so far.
I am on my third CNC machine and I step up each time. The one I have now will be my last. Well built and versatile the CAMaster CNC will do anything from small to large jobs. You need to stay away from the router style of CNC’s. Stick with the spindle. It’s quieter and last much longer when cared for.
As far as cnc goes, I have a 5x10 avid. And while it does work for everything I need, I'd recommend a welded frame, atleast a 4x8, and standard auto tool changer. I'll probably upgrade to a shopsabre in a few years. I really like having a Vacuum pump, and good software is a must. I use aspire(vcarve) and mozaik and can do most all I need to do.
Congratulations on a great build out of the new shop, and envious as well . Always glad to see old buildings repurposed for new and better use. Your property has MUCH potential. I Just noticed in this video that you apparently have some acoustic panels on the walls (video stuff?), but that is a good idea for many shops to reduce the echo and overall noise. Did you cover the construction of those in another video?
my dad has a teak bench in front of the house. i sand and refinish it every 1-3 years. he, sadly, only wants a clear oil finish. i usually go for colorless danish, or teak oil and that still greys out. its always keept great shape, but if you want it to keep the color aswell, maybe go for a colored finish.
Osmo sells a product that removes the grey from wood; I have seen it used (looks like magic!) but haven’t used it myself. Maybe that might help you with maintenance!
Many people like the Avid CNC it is more expandable and I know John Maliaki has one and loves it. His is I believe 6 by 16 but you vmcan always add or take away as much as you need.
RE: CNC As you say, I may need some more information on what you plan on using it for. I also have the Onefinity (woodworker) and love it. I do smaller scale items so the 32"x32" working area is fine for me. They do have larger sizes up to 48x48. If you want to utilize the CNC to process 4x8 sheet goods this is likely not the CNC for you (although you can use tiling methods to process it). In the Avid seems to be a popular choice for the larger work area but I do not have any direct experience or knowledge of it.
Well not sure but the one that I'm personally thinking of is onefinity. This is a screw base of movement not belt since belt you will have to tighten more often since it does get loose quicker.
For the finishing questions, I might add touch to the list of criteria. While not applicable for all projects, if you want to feel the grain so to speak, you should consider what prep steps are necessary. An example of what I am referring to here is Odies asks for you to sand up to 320 and then buff during application. This creates a very very silky surface. Wonderfully smooth. However, if that's not what you want or expected, you might be disappointed.
Great topics for the videos. I sell the Domino's and I get that question all the time. It means they have not done their homework and want me to make the choice for them for which I tell them it's an investment made on how much you think you will use this tool.
I mainly watched this to see if I should get the bigger Domino. I already have the 500. I’m about to make a new outfeed/assembly table. The legs are going to be pretty beefy. 3 1/2”. I started wondering if I can use the 500 and just add more tenons.
Actually, the sides of a mortice chisel should be slightly tapered from front to back, not parallel to each other. You’ll see this on older chisels, but it’s rare on new ones. The reason is obvious, it reduces friction on the mortice sides, particularly when levering out waste.
The dom 500. Don’t matter the size for me. Glue joints are strong than the wood (going off endless tests, I’m sure exceptions exist) and a tenon will be weakest on the joint (vs inside the wood). Plus, I’m using it for alignment, not for strength. I love using a domino, I don’t own one, just used them. Much easier with alignment!
You don't HAVE to use a loose tenon with the Domino. You can use it to cut the mortice on the stile, and cut the tenon on the rail using more traditional means.
@@woodwhisperer hey Marc! If it makes the tool just a little more versatile, then that might make it just a little more appealing to someone considered buying one. It's what made me take the plunge. (Boom tish.) A bed or bench leg is big enough to balance a router on, but a skinny 18 to 25mm edge, I'd rather find a different tool. It also enables more complicated haunched tenons, or mortices wider than a domino, by cutting overlapping mortices, with the possibility of using different depth settings. And of course, having the option to cut a traditional tenon, if I've run out of store bought floating tenons, makes it more usable.
I forgot The most important is the software and the support of its user group Vetric is the best and very cost Effective A very good vets comes w the Shopbot!
As for outdoor finishing: I hate maintenance, so if it wants to go grey, then gray it should be. Painting, finishing, these are few of my least favorite things.
I was watching one of your older videos and noticed you had an Incra table saw guide. Newer videos don't show you using it. I've been considering getting one for my old Delta Unisaw for precision and repeatability. Would you still recommend it?
I would like to up grade my planer from a bench top to bigger 15". The Reson I haven't pulled the trigger is I want one with presets. Is there such an animal? If not, why?
I purchased the XL and have used it to make 3 beds and a woodworking bench. For the beds, I used the Domino Double-Headed Bolt Connectors for the knock-down hardware instead of bed bolts . What would have taken hours to machine was done in much less time.
I don't regret buy the XL.
Marc, please keep up the Q&A videos, excellent insight into all aspects of woodworking. Thanks again 😊
As far as CNC, I am a hobby woodworker, and I saved and purchased the Onefinity. I love how easy it is to use.
I have a OneFinity journeyman, but I’d bet an AVID is in his future.
The Domino is great for people who enjoy designing furniture more than they necessarily like doing complex joinery. It’s definitely not necessary to make anything, but it’s great to speed things up and focus on designing and experimenting.
I've got a Domino 700 with the adapter and have had it for quite a long time. It covers everything and so far, I haven't run into any problems with the adapter. I will say this, as Mark noted, the 700 is heavy! And if you're building mostly cabinets, picture frames, small furniture pieces, the 500 would be my personal choice because hefting the 700 around does get tiring. Why buy the big one knowing (I demoed both at a local store before buying) it was so heavy? Because I build enough large projects that I knew I didn't want to be staring at a large project plan thinking that I should have bought the 700 as I only have enough cash for one.
The 799 does allow you to use the smaller bit. I'd likely take the weight and have the ability to use both the large and the small bit. If I found it to cumbersome to use it or I was using the small bit only I might sell the larger and purchase the smaller one or simply buy the smaller one for an option. I don't use them to make money, but would likely take on some projects that would make it eventually pay for itself. I'm a tool head anyway and usually don't mind having nice tools available.
In 2007 I bought the only Domino available. I saw potential and hoped it would pay for itself. Several years ago I stopped counting how many mortises I have cut. That was at 10,000 mortises. So yes it has paid for itself time and again. And I will say I am a professional furnature designer and builder. I would say for most any furnature and smaller items the 500 is going to fit the bill 99.9% of the time. Get the 700 if you are building large heavy entry doors or building with large timber. The smaller Domino is heavy enough, you don’t want to be using the larger one for small mortises when cutting hundreds at a time.
My wife and daughter love rusty metal and weathered wood. So when I make outdoor projects I don’t finish them. Saves me the finishing effort, so it makes all of us happy. EXCEPT…when people see the item a few years out and are told that I made it, I cringe. My preference would be to do the work to maintain the original character of the wood. But, as they say, happy wife, happy life!
Yes, size matters, but so do ergonomics. I am a hobbyist and made the decision to get the XL, Seneca adapter, and Ramon Valdez domino dock plan about 4 years ago. I mostly use the adapter and work with 6/4 or less material. I have required the large capacity about a dozen times. This year I had a bunch of cabinets to build and thought the 500 would be a better fit for the job and reason to own both, so I ordered it before the price increase. When it showed up, I compared them side by side, especially on the plywood carcass edges where I thought the 500 would have an advantage. I was very surprised that I liked the ergonomics and control of the 700 over the 500, especially when putting the fence on the edge of the plywood. It also seems to be a better built tool, e.g. metal offsets vs. plastic. Yes, 700 is heavier, but side by side it didn't seem that much and maybe added to feel of better control on the edge. Also, the 700 handle seems more conducive to plunging than the 500. One small detail is also the center mark on the face of the body of 700. I use it all the time. You could scratch in your own on the 500. After the side by side comparison, I sent the 500 back and built the cabinets with the 700. Unless I was a production shop using or having someone use the Domino all day long, I would recommend the 700 with the adapter. Sorry so long of reply, and know not everyone will agree with me, but I hope my experience resonates with some that are trying to choose. I find the tool worth it, but did not find owning both sizes worth it.
My old neighbor had a bunch of old grayed outdoor furniture in their flower garden. The tray worked so well there because it contrasted with the vibrance of not only the flowers but the greenery. The stone path leading to it was also mostly grey and light auburn earth tones. After seeing that I was sold on the idea of gray working in specific circumstances, but I prefer to maintain my furniture. I don't mind a patina or signs of aging, but if I wanted it to look like driftwood, I'd use driftwood to make it.
I negotiated hard on a 10' x 5' CNC and Laguna by far gave me the best deal. You are visible with the cannel so you might get an even better deal. I didn't go for their cheap line, I went for the Smartshop2 with ATC. So far happy with it.
I just look at that machine and 😱pretty!
Is the vaccum pump inside the frame?
@@Marcus_Caius You can buy a vacuum pump that will fit inside. Also available in single phase. I think Black Box Vacuum Solutions makes this. Most others will be much bigger and 3 phase power. If you call Laguna, ask for Jason and tell him Phil Stevens recommended you to him. he should take care of you.
WRT the Domino I have the XL. I'm not a professional and my (ex) wife didn't think so either. I have to keep reminding myself that the XL, as well as being bigger, is actually a better machine than the 500. It's as though Festool ironed out the design issues and made a "2.0" albeit larger. Things I'm talking about are the height adjustment which on the 500 is the thickness of the workpiece, the cruddy depth adjuster, and the lack of paddles. Also the cranky way that you change from the tight setting. If the 500 were made by DeWalt or Milwaukee nobody would notice or care. But Festool - come on.
I've successfully edge jointed two pieces of 18mm MDF using the smallest standard XL cutter (8mm). Not ideal as the inserted dominos are far stronger than the MDF, but as this guy says, an adapter can be purchased to anable the use of a 4mm or 5mm cutter. The other thing is the depth of cut is immense with the XL at 70mm. I recentlly made an oak door that was 80mm thick and had 24 140mmx14mm dominos per side - all cut on the tight setting. Everything fitted EXACTLY. Glue-up was a challange and with hindisght I should have used epoxy rather than PVA. Sorry about the long comment but I really rate the XL!
RE: CNC machine. I have a Legacy and love it! The machine is well made and the service is excellent.
Learned my woodworking at school around 1970. No power tools then, except table saw, band saw, pillar drill. So we had mortise chisels for mortices and bevel-edge for dovetails. So I bought, and still have, mortise chisels which were widely available. 30 to 40 years later, you have to find specialist stores to get mortise chisels.
What a great channel, regarding teak finish, here’s a sneaky cheat from our boat shop.
1. Clean it with methylated spirits or acetone as teak is EXTREMELY oily and if you don’t clean it then your finish doesn’t want to mingle with the wood grain.
2. Here’s the sneaky part, start with a very thin coat of 105 epoxy and let dry for 24 hours. Sand it the next day, and, because it was so much fun to do one coat, do one more, let dry for 24 hours and sand with 220.
Doing two coats of epoxy seals the wood and is about the same as 4 coats of Epifanes clear varnish.
3. Now comes the truly fun part, get a tin of Epifanes clean varnish and apply a thin coat over the epoxy, let dry and sand very lightly with 360. Repeat this step 5 more times upping the grit until you’re wet sanding with 4000 and you’ll have a deep mirror finish to your bright work.
@TheWood_Whisperer hello! I just sent you a message from John Loverock with Reverence Marine
Do NOT contact anyone on telegram. This is a known RUclips scam. We do not giveaway away anything this way.
I prefer that outdoor wood furniture look the same or very close to how it looks the day I put it out so I’m in the camp of refinishing
Main reason why I want the festool domino is the connector stuff is super strong and makes it easy to take things apart for transportation.
Thanks Mark. Hearing your analysis of viewer indecision clarified my uncertainty on dominos. Good idea if it satisfies a market sector such as custom tables but irrelevant for a happy hobby sawdust maker.
One consideration abt the Domino choice, consider that if you bought the 700 you (might) end up doing 80 to 90% of all your joinery with that adaptor. This may be fine but it seems silly to have a more expensive version that can’t even use the bit (w/out adaptor) for most of your work! Festool has this figured out quite well, compelling a decent percentage of their customers to buy both for more money than a very good full sized 16” bandsaw, table saw, lathe and many other industrial quality shop tools! All that said, I hope to get a 500😉
Best finishing advice I received early on was to learn how to use Shellac. Not only because each coat melts into the previous one for a smooth result, but also shellac can be reapplied later if furniture gets damaged and I need to do a repair.
Sandy, I’ve learned this as well. Some of the best furniture makers I’ve followed (Tom McLaughlan of Epic Woodworking for one) talk about how wonderful this age old finish is. Not great for a surface in danger of water, but otherwise for most furniture it’s one of the very best in bringing out the beauty of wood. Sometimes it’s used in combination with other varnishes as well like Waterlox etc but in that case I’ve heard to go with wax less shellac. I’m just a beginner when it comes to fine finishes but I’m intrigued by the many possibilities of shellac.
I have a shopbot prsalpha and it's been great. Seemed like a good compromise between power, size, and capability for the price. With a homemade vacuum hold down system I saved a bundle. Customer support has also been amazing considering I bought the machine used.
One of the main reasons I have heard for the robust sides on a mortise chisel is so it does not twist in the mortise when you pound it. With the sharp angles on the side of a bench chisel, it's easy for it to not stay straight as you dig deeper.
I have used Next Wave’s Shark HD520. I have found the software very easy to use. I have had zero issues with it in the 2+ years I have owned it. If there is a draw back it is the size. It is limited to 2’x4’ cutting size. My current shop size doesn’t allow for a larger more commercial cnc. One other item to note is that I did upgrade to a water spindle. Heat has never been an issue and the added bonus is how quiet it is vs using a router in its place.
CNC
Marc,
I have tried all the top (aka popular) brands of CNCs, as well as a number of my woodworking pro-maker buddies, and we all agree that the T5 from NewCNC out of Holland, Michigan, is in a class of its own. At just over 9,000 pounds, it's as stable and accurate as is possible to measure. 12-HP vacuum pump exerts over 77,000 pounds of downward holding force on a 4×8 workpiece. As a bonus, it's the largest "jointer" you'll find anywhere. Have had one for 3+ years without a single service call. Can't recommend highly enough.
If you want to understand how to use the Mortise Chisel, you might watch Rob Cosman's "Chopping a Mortise by Hand" video. The section on using the Mortise Chisel made it clear to me how the tool is supposed to work (even if I'm not going to do everything like Cosman does).
To your point Kyle,Paul Sellers also has video where he cuts mortises with both types of chiesels. The vidéo is well worth watching.
If you want to stick to non-production cncs, I'd recommend the onefinity. They have an elite model that's pretty cool. I have their x50 woodworker and it's really nice. That said the onefinity biggest size is 4x4.
I highly recommend CAMaster CNC out of Georgia. Robust frame, high quality spindles and options and great customer service. I’ve had mine for four years and it’s rock solid with high performance operation
CNC recommendation, Shop Sabre. Had my pro 408 for 6 years. Outstanding tolerances and an outstanding support staff. Good luck and love your content.
I have an Ipe deck. The Ipe, like Teak grays out pretty quickly. About every two years I’ll rent a floor sander with some real coarse paper and use my 6” orbital for the right spots to clean it up before applying Ipe oil. It’s a real pain but it looks brand new when I’m done.
Saw the ladder to the roof, any Clerks style hockey games planned?..lol..thanks for all the info!
Keep good wood looking nice - finish it!
Thanks for the great information and video. Would love to see you at the router table showing us your skills specifically with flush trim bits. I have seen your other video, just wondering if you can do a refresh especially with all of the new people out here in the woodworking community that may rely on this skill. As always, thank you for your time, content and sense of humor.
That’s a great building, very nicely set. Well chosen.
Great video as always.
CNC wise, maybe Shop Sabre, Laguna…. it really depends how industrial you want to go or if you want to stay closer to a hobby version. I know April Wilkerson has a big CNC shop that has come on strong over the years. Her channel would be a good resource…
Regarding outdoor furniture, we have 35 pieces, and maintenance is becoming a tremendous job. I find that simply hitting it with a pressure washer and a good deck stain in a spray bottle is the easiest way to keep it looking good and it lasts a long time here in the Texas weather,
My view on the Domino is if you are a professional shop where time really is money then the Domino may be the best choice. However, if you are a hobbyist where time is of less concern, or even a professional building smaller pieces than there are other far less expensive alternatives available. I had to do a 14' faux beam (to cover an LVL beam) with side columns out of maple veneered plywood. I used a DowelMax to strengthen and align the 3 sides of all 3 components. It took a lot of time and far more time than the Domino would have, but the results were spectacular. And it was far cheaper than buying a Domino. Thanks.
I use biscuits. For heavier structural joints, I will use 2 or more biscuits with 100% success, no failures.
I also like using pocket screw joinery. Where it's hidden. Quick and strong. No clamping. I also use traditional joinery for special projects when I have time. Through dovetails are my favorite. If I am doing that much, I want the work to be seen.
Hey Marc. Great video as usual.
I have a Laguna Smart Shop II. Love it for its ability to do a large volume if I need it without the price tag of the MultiCam. I’ve had the Laguna for 8 years now. Six of those it ran at least 8 hours a day, 5 days a week with no issues. The Laguna is now home at my personal shop as the volume we needed at the business has out paced the SmartShop. So now the shop I sold has three MultiCams which are work horse beasts. I guess it depends on the scale of work you plan on. I’m your area you could probably build a decent clientele on service work.
I have both Dominoes and although I do some heavy stuff I really like the light weight and versatility of the 500 so it’s my go to. Plus I work in the field quite a bit. I would say though for furniture, I’m extremely happy that I picked up a PantoRouter. If you’re doing angles other than 90 degrees, yes you can use a Domino but the flexibility of a PantoRouter is hard to beat.
I build outdoor furniture with western cedar, let it grey over the year and in the spring I pressure wash them and it looks great without damaging the wood. My two cents.
Expanding the building forward and removing the large garage door may be viewed as a huge benefit because of energy. The wall space may be nice too. Just need a small single car or shed sized garage door or even large commercial double doors would be enough. Would really transform the look of the building. Space won’t be an issue for a few years anyway but who knows what the future could bring. Time and money.
Love my Longmill CNC. Just did my first 3d carve, it ran great.
Hi Marc, with regards to a CNC recommendation. I live in the uk and I took delivery Ive my first “proper” CNC in June last year. After extensive research I went with an i2R. Which I believe have there HQ in New York. I went for the b series and it’s been BRILLIANT. They have bigger more powerful models to suit different budgets. Setup time was about 1 hour, from delivery to cutting! HTH. Happy to help of you have any questions mate.
Re CNC, I have the Onefinity and love it. They are coming out w a new model called the Elite. New controller. Very interesting. Ben Myers has a great intro video to it.
Gotta keep outdoor furniture fresh
Some great tips there, Marc! Thanks! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
BTW, the only thing getting in my way right now is the weather... It's too freaking hot here in Brazil and I don't have an AC in my shop... Yet.
I ordered the new Onefinity with the Masso controller. Should be arriving in a month or two. I can report on it once I receive it. There’s already a few other influencers with an early release who have positive feedback on it so far.
I also recommend the Onefinity CNC, Love mine.
I am on my third CNC machine and I step up each time. The one I have now will be my last. Well built and versatile the CAMaster CNC will do anything from small to large jobs. You need to stay away from the router style of CNC’s. Stick with the spindle. It’s quieter and last much longer when cared for.
As far as cnc goes, I have a 5x10 avid. And while it does work for everything I need, I'd recommend a welded frame, atleast a 4x8, and standard auto tool changer. I'll probably upgrade to a shopsabre in a few years. I really like having a Vacuum pump, and good software is a must. I use aspire(vcarve) and mozaik and can do most all I need to do.
Congratulations on a great build out of the new shop, and envious as well . Always glad to see old buildings repurposed for new and better use. Your property has MUCH potential. I Just noticed in this video that you apparently have some acoustic panels on the walls (video stuff?), but that is a good idea for many shops to reduce the echo and overall noise. Did you cover the construction of those in another video?
my dad has a teak bench in front of the house. i sand and refinish it every 1-3 years. he, sadly, only wants a clear oil finish. i usually go for colorless danish, or teak oil and that still greys out. its always keept great shape, but if you want it to keep the color aswell, maybe go for a colored finish.
Osmo sells a product that removes the grey from wood; I have seen it used (looks like magic!) but haven’t used it myself. Maybe that might help you with maintenance!
CNC....Camaster.. Made in USA, beefy welded frame, Excellent support.
Love your new shop space.
I am patiently waiting for my Onefinity Elite Foreman, unless you want a 4x8+... for me 4x4 is enough for what I do
Many people like the Avid CNC it is more expandable and I know John Maliaki has one and loves it. His is I believe 6 by 16 but you vmcan always add or take away as much as you need.
Yeti tools has been awesome for my cnc. Great customer support!
I've had a great experience with Techno CNC. I've got a 4'x8' Atlas series. They make models with a smaller footprint as well. Give them a look.
Thanks for the tips! I am also in the market for a domino, and will likely proceed with the xl.
RE: CNC As you say, I may need some more information on what you plan on using it for. I also have the Onefinity (woodworker) and love it. I do smaller scale items so the 32"x32" working area is fine for me. They do have larger sizes up to 48x48. If you want to utilize the CNC to process 4x8 sheet goods this is likely not the CNC for you (although you can use tiling methods to process it). In the Avid seems to be a popular choice for the larger work area but I do not have any direct experience or knowledge of it.
Really the domino saves hours of time. That's it's justification. If you're not looking to save hours than the product's not for you.
I hope your enjoying Missouri Marc, I grew up around Joplin and it’s a great state.
Well not sure but the one that I'm personally thinking of is onefinity. This is a screw base of movement not belt since belt you will have to tighten more often since it does get loose quicker.
For the finishing questions, I might add touch to the list of criteria. While not applicable for all projects, if you want to feel the grain so to speak, you should consider what prep steps are necessary. An example of what I am referring to here is Odies asks for you to sand up to 320 and then buff during application. This creates a very very silky surface. Wonderfully smooth. However, if that's not what you want or expected, you might be disappointed.
Great content.
Love this format! Thanks Marc
Without knowing how much work surface you want with your CNC, I’ll vote for Onefinity. I love my journeyman.
CNC....... The QueenBee 1015 or the 1515 model. Does a lot for a fraction of cost when compared to industrial CNC product lines.....it may help
Great topics for the videos. I sell the Domino's and I get that question all the time. It means they have not done their homework and want me to make the choice for them for which I tell them it's an investment made on how much you think you will use this tool.
I mainly watched this to see if I should get the bigger Domino. I already have the 500. I’m about to make a new outfeed/assembly table. The legs are going to be pretty beefy. 3 1/2”. I started wondering if I can use the 500 and just add more tenons.
you should get a blue elephant cnc really great for the price and all the important bits arnt Chinese
Actually, the sides of a mortice chisel should be slightly tapered from front to back, not parallel to each other. You’ll see this on older chisels, but it’s rare on new ones. The reason is obvious, it reduces friction on the mortice sides, particularly when levering out waste.
Great info Marc
Great new format! It’s like a simpler version of the live show. Also looks like you have a new camera or maybe lighting, it looks improved
Nope. Just used my phone. 😂
Haha nice!!!
Build a Dairy Queen on the property!
I WANT the wood to always look good but I also know my personality and situation so something that is OK to age naturally might be best 😂
biesse cnc machine used one for years so accurate
I personally think
Festool is nice
But I feel like I'm
Bending over
With there prices!
The dom 500. Don’t matter the size for me. Glue joints are strong than the wood (going off endless tests, I’m sure exceptions exist) and a tenon will be weakest on the joint (vs inside the wood). Plus, I’m using it for alignment, not for strength. I love using a domino, I don’t own one, just used them. Much easier with alignment!
Great video Marc
Thanks 👍
You don't HAVE to use a loose tenon with the Domino. You can use it to cut the mortice on the stile, and cut the tenon on the rail using more traditional means.
Well, of course. But how does that impact someone making the decision to buy one? They'd still have to buy one in order to make the mortise.
@@woodwhisperer hey Marc! If it makes the tool just a little more versatile, then that might make it just a little more appealing to someone considered buying one. It's what made me take the plunge. (Boom tish.)
A bed or bench leg is big enough to balance a router on, but a skinny 18 to 25mm edge, I'd rather find a different tool.
It also enables more complicated haunched tenons, or mortices wider than a domino, by cutting overlapping mortices, with the possibility of using different depth settings.
And of course, having the option to cut a traditional tenon, if I've run out of store bought floating tenons, makes it more usable.
Outdoor Upgrades for the Shop, Recommend composting toilet for your “Guests”
The whole property is their toilet.....apparently. :)
Do you build new furniture to furnish each of the houses you buy?
I don't like to let the wood turn grey either.
video quality is great on this one!
iPhone 😂
camaster is what i have.. good company to work with
I forgot
The most important is the software and the support of its user group
Vetric is the best and very cost
Effective
A very good vets comes w the Shopbot!
Not sure of the camera and lens you’re using, but it looks great! Well done!
iPhone. Apple knows what people like. :)
I would like to know what you are using for your dustbin liner. I have the same DC.
thanks
Check out onefinity or i2r for a cnc.
What camera and lens are you using there? Great image and bokeh (if that's what it's called).
I always enjoy the Q&A.🙂🙂
AVID CNC great products 👌
As for outdoor finishing: I hate maintenance, so if it wants to go grey, then gray it should be. Painting, finishing, these are few of my least favorite things.
My friend Brian says I need both
I was watching one of your older videos and noticed you had an Incra table saw guide. Newer videos don't show you using it. I've been considering getting one for my old Delta Unisaw for precision and repeatability. Would you still recommend it?
Thank you!!!! Amazing video
I would like to up grade my planer from a bench top to bigger 15". The
Reson I haven't pulled the trigger is I want one with presets. Is there such an animal? If not, why?
1:36 Did you get a new gimbal and camera or did you (Todd) do some fancy video editing?
Old gimbal + iPhone.
I really like these Q&As
Re CNC I’m liking what I see from Phantom, check Izzy’s RUclips channel.