I built a couple of these years ago. It's a shame that the kits have been dumbed down so they're no longer motorized / electrified. I still have a motorized one.
I'm currently modding one I recieved as a gift this christmast to the motorised and functionning plugs one. the starter is now functionning properly and the spark plugs should be working fine this week, just like the one I recieved in the 70's for christmast.
Actually, what I did was this...In 1975 I built Renwal's motorized version of this kit. It took about a month to complete and it ran and looked OK, nothing spectacular, with a 15-year-old's modeling skills. Nothing was painted. Fast forward to about 2016, when I got a new, Revell, non-motorized version that I wanted to try building with my more mature modeling skill level. I still had the 1975 model, so I cannibalized its working distributor and geared camshaft, its motor / gearbox, battery box, and its rear transmission to install them all on the new model. All of the old pieces fit perfectly in the new kit; Revell didn't change the mounting points for the new, "dummy" pieces. Also transferred from the old model were the air cleaner, carb., and intake manifold assembly, oil filler tube, oil filter, and dipstick, which were all cleaned and detailed. Seams were filled with " Squadron" plastic body putty and the sub-assemblies carefully primed and painted with either brush-on or aerosol modeling paint. I wasn't impressed with the fit of Revell's clear plastic pieces. Quite a bit of plastic had to be shaved off the bottom of the heads so they would fit flush with the block, which enabled the push rods to much more noticeably move the valves. The finished model was mounted on a piece of wood using the 1975's Renwal stand. It looks and runs like a champ. The process took three months to complete, but it sure was fun!
I had a suspition that all generations (Renwal, Revell motorized, & Revell manual operation) of this model would fit together. Thanks for the confirmation. I built my first one during the Christmas vacation of 79' when I was in junior high. The Revell motorized generation had actually two versions. The first version was clear plastic parts, pointed spark plug bulb ends and both the + & - wires in just black. The second "later" version was smoked clear plastic parts, rounded bulb ends with + wires red & - wires black. The build turned out pretty bad. I didn't file burrs from any of the parts and the cam binded up on the first start up and snapped in two after about the first 8 - 10 seconds of run time. For that reason, only about 1/4 the valve train moved. Pretty disappointing. So last year at about this time (fall/winter 2021) I purchased another one on ebay and spent a few months building it. Turned out great. Using small files on all the internal parts along with a silicon based lubricant. Oil based lubricant will eat into the plastic parts and cause them to deteriorate.
@@SoGoYoko I've heard of the "smoked" clear plastic parts but have never seen any in person. My 1975 version had a clear plastic block, heads, etc. and red grain of wheat bulbs with two black wires each. The original directions said to use Vaseline to lube gears and moving parts, but that stuff gets gummy after so many years. I used a light, lithium grease in the gearbox and just a few drops of sewing machine oil on the crankshaft, etc. So far, so good. The model is kept covered up so it won't get dusty; this conversation makes me think it's time to dig it out and fire it up for a minute or so. I'm happy your most recent build turned out well! This model certainly isn't for an inexperienced, or impatient builder, as we both have discovered.
@@Japcollector If you go on ebay and look them up, you'll see the ones with smoked colored clear plastic. On my most recent build (2021/2022) I went to ACE Hardware and got a small container of silicon lubricant that is specifically used for plastic. I actually got one more of these models still in the box not built and seriously thinking I may soon build that third one. Each time the results get better. Lessons learned each and every time.
Received one for x mas, last year, I finally finished it this week, but I added the working electric starter, and the working distributor and plugs, like the original one. Lots of trial and error, not possible without a 3D printer.
@@scalemodelmaker659 ok cuz it looked like the nut that sits under part 151 wasn’t in there before gluing the black 150 and 151 which I don’t understand where to glue 150 151
Your 14-year old should have no problem building this kit. It can be done in a easy day or two. I chose to paint most of the parts. You can skip that step. Thanks for watching!
@@scalemodelmaker659 gosh darn it’s taking me AND my dad about 3 days to get to the CAM SHAFT (mostly because he has work and we aren’t working on it constantly)
I built one when I was in junior high school back in 79'. I didn't paint anything or file off any burrs. Took me about three days. The second one I built in late 2021, it took me three months, because I painted most of the solid colored parts, filed all burrs and casting seams off everything, and did a major custom job to the spark plug wires to make them more realistic (8.8 Excel style wires). The only problem I had when building it this most current time was the very small spring that installs into the distributor was missing. I had to go to ACE hardware and find something that I could modify to use. Wasn't easy finding a small spring that would work with this application. So if you are building the version of this model that has the firing spark plugs, make sure not to lose that tiny spring during the build.
It’s a pretty realistic reproduction of the small block Chevy engine, including the actual intake and exhaust ports in the heads (better than the Francis engine models in this respect). The arrow on the bell housing points the wrong way, though. Contrary to the actual engine rotation and makes the radiator fan blow instead of pull.
Does anyone know the length of the short and long screws, and perhaps the thread so I don't have to size them before I can order some? My kit was missing the screws but had a bunch of nuts
They must’ve gone CHEAP to compensate for fed govt THEFT thru inflation of the $. My model in 1978 had an electric motor which made it rotate. I think it was mounted at the starter location.
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Thank you. I forgot the placement of the camshaft relative to the crankshaft. It helped me to look at the model I made more than another engine.
I built a couple of these years ago. It's a shame that the kits have been dumbed down so they're no longer motorized / electrified. I still have a motorized one.
Yes a motorized version would be a lot more interesting then the hand crank version. Thanks for your comment!
I'm currently modding one I recieved as a gift this christmast to the motorised and functionning plugs one. the starter is now functionning properly and the spark plugs should be working fine this week, just like the one I recieved in the 70's for christmast.
@@michelperron2780 Very cool!
@@michelperron2780 hey did you have any problems with parts not lining up correctly
Exactly. It's so cool to see the spark plugs firing in order.
Actually, what I did was this...In 1975 I built Renwal's motorized version of this kit. It took about a month to complete and it ran and looked OK, nothing spectacular, with a 15-year-old's modeling skills. Nothing was painted. Fast forward to about 2016, when I got a new, Revell, non-motorized version that I wanted to try building with my more mature modeling skill level. I still had the 1975 model, so I cannibalized its working distributor and geared camshaft, its motor / gearbox, battery box, and its rear transmission to install them all on the new model. All of the old pieces fit perfectly in the new kit; Revell didn't change the mounting points for the new, "dummy" pieces. Also transferred from the old model were the air cleaner, carb., and intake manifold assembly, oil filler tube, oil filter, and dipstick, which were all cleaned and detailed. Seams were filled with " Squadron" plastic body putty and the sub-assemblies carefully primed and painted with either brush-on or aerosol modeling paint. I wasn't impressed with the fit of Revell's clear plastic pieces. Quite a bit of plastic had to be shaved off the bottom of the heads so they would fit flush with the block, which enabled the push rods to much more noticeably move the valves. The finished model was mounted on a piece of wood using the 1975's Renwal stand. It looks and runs like a champ. The process took three months to complete, but it sure was fun!
Thanks for your great comment!!
I had a suspition that all generations (Renwal, Revell motorized, & Revell manual operation) of this model would fit together. Thanks for the confirmation. I built my first one during the Christmas vacation of 79' when I was in junior high. The Revell motorized generation had actually two versions. The first version was clear plastic parts, pointed spark plug bulb ends and both the + & - wires in just black. The second "later" version was smoked clear plastic parts, rounded bulb ends with + wires red & - wires black. The build turned out pretty bad. I didn't file burrs from any of the parts and the cam binded up on the first start up and snapped in two after about the first 8 - 10 seconds of run time. For that reason, only about 1/4 the valve train moved. Pretty disappointing. So last year at about this time (fall/winter 2021) I purchased another one on ebay and spent a few months building it. Turned out great. Using small files on all the internal parts along with a silicon based lubricant. Oil based lubricant will eat into the plastic parts and cause them to deteriorate.
@@SoGoYoko I've heard of the "smoked" clear plastic parts but have never seen any in person. My 1975 version had a clear plastic block, heads, etc. and red grain of wheat bulbs with two black wires each. The original directions said to use Vaseline to lube gears and moving parts, but that stuff gets gummy after so many years. I used a light, lithium grease in the gearbox and just a few drops of sewing machine oil on the crankshaft, etc. So far, so good. The model is kept covered up so it won't get dusty; this conversation makes me think it's time to dig it out and fire it up for a minute or so. I'm happy your most recent build turned out well! This model certainly isn't for an inexperienced, or impatient builder, as we both have discovered.
@@Japcollector If you go on ebay and look them up, you'll see the ones with smoked colored clear plastic. On my most recent build (2021/2022) I went to ACE Hardware and got a small container of silicon lubricant that is specifically used for plastic. I actually got one more of these models still in the box not built and seriously thinking I may soon build that third one. Each time the results get better. Lessons learned each and every time.
@@SoGoYoko The third time's a charm! Practice does make perfect. I'll look into silicon lube for plastic; thanks for the information.
At 2:38, as for the grease, would plain old disc wheel bearing grease work?
That might be a little heavy / thick.
@@Japcollector I have some points/cam lube, or what else would be better that I could find locally in Mt Home, AR?
The instructions for the old version called out vegetable oil for lube points.
I thought about making this model now I know I don’t want to .. great video to watch though 😎👍🏻
Received one for x mas, last year, I finally finished it this week, but I added the working electric starter, and the working distributor and plugs, like the original one. Lots of trial and error, not possible without a 3D printer.
I like your additions to the model!
So all 10 metal nutz were glued into place everywhere a metal nut had a place correct ? Before cementing the 150 and 151 on?
I secured all the metal nuts with glue
@@scalemodelmaker659 ok cuz it looked like the nut that sits under part 151 wasn’t in there before gluing the black 150 and 151 which I don’t understand where to glue 150 151
Hey did you have any problems with parts lining up correctly
Yes there were some small issues.
The clear plastic parts were challenging to get to fit together. Much trimming was necessary.
Always liked this kit. Nice job.👍
Thanks Charlie...it was fun to build!
How long does it take to build? I was thinking about getting it for my 14 year old
Your 14-year old should have no problem building this kit. It can be done in a easy day or two. I chose to paint most of the parts. You can skip that step. Thanks for watching!
@@scalemodelmaker659 gosh darn it’s taking me AND my dad about 3 days to get to the CAM SHAFT (mostly because he has work and we aren’t working on it constantly)
I built one when I was in junior high school back in 79'. I didn't paint anything or file off any burrs. Took me about three days. The second one I built in late 2021, it took me three months, because I painted most of the solid colored parts, filed all burrs and casting seams off everything, and did a major custom job to the spark plug wires to make them more realistic (8.8 Excel style wires). The only problem I had when building it this most current time was the very small spring that installs into the distributor was missing. I had to go to ACE hardware and find something that I could modify to use. Wasn't easy finding a small spring that would work with this application. So if you are building the version of this model that has the firing spark plugs, make sure not to lose that tiny spring during the build.
It’s a pretty realistic reproduction of the small block Chevy engine, including the actual intake and exhaust ports in the heads (better than the Francis engine models in this respect).
The arrow on the bell housing points the wrong way, though. Contrary to the actual engine rotation and makes the radiator fan blow instead of pull.
I remember when the cylinders lit up red and orange.
what type of glue?
Tamiya plastic glue. Also used some CA glue.
Where are the crankshaft supprts i cant find them?
How much do they go for?
I picked up my kit at Hobby Lobby on sale for about $45.
I got one in Melbourne Australia for $50.
Anybody else notice thats actually turning backwards of a real engine.
They put the distributor on 180° out of sync and got it fixed.
Yep, fan was turning wrong way, or put on backwards. Not like it’s going to be mounted in a car, though! Nice job on some of the detail painting.
Does anyone know the length of the short and long screws, and perhaps the thread so I don't have to size them before I can order some? My kit was missing the screws but had a bunch of nuts
👌👍
Thanks
If anyone out there has a valve cover for this model I have been looking for one but will not pay rediculous shipping
They must’ve gone CHEAP to compensate for fed govt THEFT thru inflation of the $. My model in 1978 had an electric motor which made it rotate. I think it was mounted at the starter location.