DIY SPOT WELDER SHOWDOWN - BIFRC vs JQ-DHJ
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- Опубликовано: 19 ноя 2021
- I compare the power and performance of the two best DIY spot welders on the market. Both are excellent. The BIFRC is slightly more powerful but isnt as consistent and gets very hot. The JQ-DHJ makes consistent spot welds and stay much cooler. The JQ is going to become my day to day spot welder.
Link to JQ-DHJ spot welder
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ACyI4L
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9uuIGx
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A7Ryr1
Link to BIFRC spot welder
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AOvbd5
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AUpuPz
Link to Lipo Battery
amzn.to/3wmNjUX 
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Hi, thanks for your video, I have this 2 units and I love the JQ-DHJ, look made with quality components....sorry for my english
Note that every weld done with BIFRC is done with the needles closer together....that is why they appear and probably are stronger. The battery is what contains the weld energy and the boards are just controllers. Both use MOSFETS essentially equal in current handling.
Partially true. The size of the traces, the number of MOSFET, the wire guage determine how much current ultimately flows. I have tried dozens of spot welders and few push the current that the BIRFC can...
BFRC u have to use the flashing light to time the spot welds....
Hello Steven does the new spot welder have a different description. I have searched for JQ-DHJ and can not find it. I have the BIFRC and it works well but as you identified it sometimes fires when not needed and does burn through the Nickel. I would like to try the new one. Keep up the excellent reviews.
The links in the description work, so use those to buy or check the description. Thanks 👍
Thanks for your demonstration. Are you still using JQ-DHJ or have you found something better. I'm almost ready to buy it from CN.
It's good. It's my top 3. Recently I have been using this spot welder ruclips.net/video/09D6r1U1f1M/видео.htmlsi=5hB8SZa0ij_-AMRn
Hi! Good video, I enjoyed it. Any luck with a 3d printed case for the china spot welder? All the best!
Thanks. No luck with a case, sorry.
@@stevenc22 am trying to find a good model, if I manage to find a good one or make it myself, will also share it here. Thanks again for sharing!
whether the direct current is on the weld
Extremely informative video @Stevenc22. Does the JQ-DHJ work with a 4s battery (16.5V fully charged)? Specifications mention working voltage between 6.5V-16V but unsure if 16V is a hard maximum of can be 16.8V of a fully charged 4s lipo battery. Thanks.
Not sure but just only charge your lipo to about 16v then it should be fine.
@@stevenc22 Thanks for the comment. I was just trying to re-use a car jump start battery I had around. It claims to have up to 800A (it is the DINKALEN starter 12800mAh 800A in amazon uk but i am pretty sure specs are really inflated ). I might just give it a try when the spot welder arrives from aliexpress. Hope it is not too dangerous and don't blow the board!
@@jrhbcn just keep the voltage within specof the board and it should work fine
@@stevenc22 Just a follow up after testing the board. It worked perfectly with the 4s battery (discharged to 15.8V). It created more sparks while welding than the videos I have seen but it is sure due to my lack of skills welding (my first time) rather than the board itself. The jump start battery seemed to cope with the board needs just fine. Thanks for the video again!
@@jrhbcnWhat is the highest mm of nickel strips you can weld? Does it still work now?
Hello, can i use a car battery 12v 60Ah 540A ? could it burn out the mosfet ?
How much cost the 5200mAh 12V 80C battery ?
what kind of other battery can i use ? 18v drill battery ? 12v or 24v vacuum battery ?
a lead acid battery with 250cca+ will work fine. I dont think it will burn out the mosfets. Do not use 18v batteries. this board is for 12v batteries. The battery i use is about $30. Link in description.
Review yang bagus!
Apakah alat spot welder ini akan bekerja dengan battery 3s, 11.1v, 5000 mAH, 50C?
Terimakasih atas jawaban anda
Salam hormat
What happened to the 12v AC adapter used to power the BIFRC? Did you come to the conclusion that the adapter wasn't necessary?
I have still have both versions of the BIFRC. The wall powered version was for a demonstration for people who have weaker batteries.
I'm going to start building some high current packs. Have you had any luck with these on 0.3 nickel strips?
I think it can do 0.3 but that is damn thick.
Could you power this with a cheap 16v DC power supply for the wall? I see working current is 20mA.
To actually weld takes 200amps. So to weld won't work with a wall power supply
I just got a JQ-DHJ02B-Rev1.4, and managed to fry it on the second go. First I attached a 12v pb backup battery, and that didn't seem to have enough juice, so I got my auto battery charger.
Smoke happened just being hooked up, I turned it down, and upon the first attempt, it fried C4 glowing red, and D1 maybe cracked, and maybe the IC to the right of L1.
Any ideas? Anywhere people discuss potential fixes? Thanks.
Had the same happen after about 30 good welds: Supposedly this happens when the MOSFETs don't close correctly due to the battery voltage dropping. You can solve it by using another GOOD power source for the control electronics (probably the safest option as a good battery will eventually become a bad battery), or you can use a good battery. To see how to connect a second power source see this video by Stevenc22: ruclips.net/video/VggXUXeHtLI/видео.html. My experience kinda confirms that a bad battery is the cause, I use an old car battery that almost dead as it didn't always start anymore, had it tested and it wasn't close to its spec (700 A) but still had about 400 A but I guess because it's almost dead voltage sag can be (much) worse.
Some battery chargers, pulse chargers, use a high voltage pulse to remove sulfide buildup on the plates of a lead acid battery.
I built a BIFRC spot welder that is not performing well enough to use. I'm using the same battery as you, 8 gauge copper stranded cable (450mm long) that is soldered onto the board, 60 amp Deans connector on the battery and although the .15 nickel sticks to the battery I can easily pull it off of the battery even using the highest power setting. My electrode is 3mm with a 1.5mm radii machined onto the tip. Any idea what might be wrong? I'm thinking I may have to big of a radii machined on the tip and may try reducing the radii so that the contact patch is smaller.
Not sure, but you could check if all your mosfets are properly soldered, if one or two aren't connected/poorly connected that would make it weaker and you don't have to, but it wouldn't hurt to add some solder to the traces.
Is your BIFRC a real BIFRC or a knock off? There are knock off verions.
@@stevenc22 I believe it is genuine. I bought it using your link and it has the markings (V1.2 20200304) of genuine. How can I tell for sure? As far as keeping your BIFRC cool have you tried using a fan? On top of my heat sink I added a tiny 5015 DC 12V 0.18A fan which is powered by my 12V AC adapter. The fan moves a lot of air and seems to keep the mosfets cool.
@@vgamesx1 Thanks, I'll look.
@@TC-hl1ws if it's not working right, it might be faulty. I have bought 4 BIFRC including a knock of version and they all welded very strong. As long as your battery is solid it might be a faulty board. Maybe all the MOSFETs aren't firing
Great videos, This still the spot welder of choice? Also are you still recommend the Zeee batteries? I'm looking at grabbing this JQ-DHJ welder with a ZEE 5200mAh 100C version to do some Ebike battery rectification work.
Buy the BRFIC. It is a better spot welder. I'm building a new bike battery right now
@@stevenc22 oh really? I thought you consistently thought and said the JQ one was the better welder. Also hard to find the BIFRC one - all your links don’t work. What’s changed since these videos?
I’m also contemplating going for a suitable car battery with ~600+CCA as I have no lipos and would also need a balance charger for it too and just expensive and little choice in UK so may go Varta battery which is similar price for a lipo+charger and I guess would be more powerful than the lipo and I could use for other Leisure type stuff.
Any other advice?
@@jamo9000 the JQ is a good welder but the BIFRC is more powerful. Sometimes you need that extra power for a thick weld. Let me look for a link for you. The BIFRC gets hot so install a small heat sink on it like mine.
a.aliexpress.com/_mKSrrha
@@stevenc22 brilliant that would be great thanks
BTW you can change the delay on the BiFRC by holding the button down and cycling through the delay. I think you can set the delay upto 8secs. Also, the BiFRC can be sent in manual mode to use a soldering handle with a switch.
Have to ask, I see you are using a 5200mah battery and you mention selecting your battery, how come you chose to use 10-20ah instead of 40-50Ah
Thanks
It's a 5,200mah battery not 52,000mah
@@stevenc22 Well spotted, didn't spot I added an extra 0 :)
With the BIFRC you can also do spot welds with a paddle interface in manual mode and adjust pulse timing in between welds in auto mode.
It would be cool to if you could try welding with a super cap configured in 5.4v and switch the negative side only.
Could the difference in weld power be down to the fact you have leads that are twice as long on the JQ-DHJ? Would be good to see this test re-done with battery connector pigtail on the DHJ shortened as much as possible.
Good point
Good question. In another video i compared XT60 leads vs direct soldering the battery to the board. There wasn't much difference.
No, the lead differences would be insignificant with either cable length
birfc does not adjust the current but the timing
Hello friend! How many amperes of lead acid battery would be good for spot welding PCB?
Yes as long as it's a decent size lead acid battery, it should work fine
@@stevenc22 I have 70AH, !00AH lead acid batteries, but someone told me not to use these batteries because these batteries have large numbers of amperes, this causes the MOSFET to burn. What do you say about it?
The thickness of the wires for the spot welder will limit the amps. I think you will be okay
Can I use a 2200mah 25c 3s lipo with the JQ? Thx
That's about 50amps, which is not enough.
@@stevenc22 What if I use 2 x 1800mah 3s 30c in paralel?
What is the size of that heatsink?
Thanks!
Small look up "VRM heatsink"
Could you tell me bifrc board's size?
80mm x 35mm
Don't be shy rip them off and show us how was it spotweld. That test give me nothing to be honest.
yup
Do not understand the proper button set-up of capacity and power ratio selections for the JQ-DHJ spot welder using a 12 volt car battery rated at 800 CCA.
Ah x C = CCA. First column is the AH of the battery, how many amps can it deliver in one hour. The second column is the C rating, how much do energy can it deliver instantaneously. A normal car battery is about 50ah, so set the first row of lights to 50. A 50ah battery with a 800cca, means it has a C rating of 16. 16x50 = 800. So set the second row of lights to 16C.
Eeemnmn.eeeem...eeeem... annoying man!