I've bought it and checked it with an oscilloskope. It is genereting 3 pulses, SEG1 sets parameters of the first pulse, SEG2 is for the second and SEG3 is for the third one. You will want to set the deley in SEG1 to something like 500 to get the comfortable delay. All values in SEGs are in milliseconds, so 500 is half a second. All mosfets are used as one block, they are driven from one single driver (TLP250) and are not divided in any way. I would start with seg1=2, delay=500; seg2=2, delay=10; seg3=10, delay=10 and fine tune the seg3=10 according to strip thickness and other conditions like battery voltage and internal resistance. Seg3 is the pulse that does the real welding. I have never seen a spot welder with 3 pulses, I don't know if it does make any sense to implement more pulses then 2. Other than that the board should be able to make some decent welds, I will try it with nickel-copper sandwich.
@@brenthawkins204 I did not have 0.1 copper, so I played with 0.04mm copper foil and 0.1 nickel plated strip on top and it did a fine job. I'm guessing there will be no problem with 0.1mm. I will try 0.2mm, I won't have a chance to test it for the next few weeks though. I'm using supercapacitors, maxwell 350F in 3s2p arrangement at 7.5V. The only thing that got somewhat warm were the cables, I will probably switch from stock 10AWG to 6AWG and maybe try 3s3p.
@@TheUltimateDIY Sorry for the delay. My previous test were with bank of supercapacitors charged to 7.5V, it worked fine with 0.08mm copper. Few weeks later I got a car audio 1 farad 16V capacitor. It was HFC1000 form Hifonics. Its ESR is less then 1.5 mohm. After charging it to 12V (well within the welder specifications) I used it on copper 0.2mm. One mosfet has shorted. I have removed it and tried again with 7.5V supercapacitor. At least one more mosfet has blew, this time with small explosion. I guess some mosfets were not shorted but still damaged and couldn't hold the stres they had no problem with before. I'm guessing the very low internal resistance of the 1F capacitor charged to 12V delivered a current pulse high enough to produce EMF overvoltage and fried at least some of the mosfets. The manufacturer is probably testing it with lipos or car battery, both usually have higher ESR and so have lower short circuit current. So added a big 18V TVS diode to try and clamp overvoltage spikes between drain and source of the mosfet bank. But, I have not tested it yet. I am aware that some cheap spot welder boards have a problem where the supply voltage drop can cause mosfet to fail to open at the and of the pulse, but I don't think this board is afflicted with this. I'm guessing it is the overvoltage spikes created by the self-inductance of the probe wires. I have already replaced the mosfets, added the TVS diode, and bought another HFC1000 cap (I have found one for 25USD, coudn't resist). When I will finally get around to try and actually use it, it'll be with 2 caps at 2F 0.75mohm. If the board survives this, it will survive anything.
Thank you so much! This information is very helpful. I bought one based on this video and revisited it after some initial confusion and found your comment which cleared everything up. Thanks again!
A three-stage pulse for a battery spot welder is an advanced technique used to enhance the welding process 1. Improved Heat Management Pre-Weld Heating: The first pulse can be a low-energy pulse that preheats the materials to be welded. This initial pulse increases the temperature of the metal surfaces, reducing the resistance at the weld interface, which can make the subsequent main weld pulse more efficient. Main Weld Pulse: The second, higher-energy pulse performs the actual welding by rapidly heating the metal to create the weld joint. This pulse must be carefully controlled to ensure it is strong enough to create a durable bond without overheating the materials. Post-Weld Heat Treatment: The third pulse, which may be lower in energy than the main weld pulse, can serve to anneal the weld area, reducing stresses and the risk of crack formation in the weld. This can improve the overall strength and durability of the weld.
@@benperkins2929 i have that same question but i think it depends on the battery plus material and elevation that you are at bc the closer you are to the sun the more energy is conducted through the stratusphere
Ordered one because of this video. Used the same battery as you. LED screen was DOA, but it works. Pro tip, inspect board closely. One side of the ground bar on mine was not soldered. I suspect thats the reason others are blowing these up.
You should connect the white power wire to a separate battery and connect the batteries negative to common ground so that the mosfets wont stay open during a voltage drop and frying the mosfets, especially when using lead acid battery as a source.
That happened to me. It blown on the first run. Lead acid 40Ah but not charged. Even though I don't know how can they stay open if voltage is ok from thr battery. It drops to 11V but not less
Yeah, I burned mine on the first weld. It needs separate power supply to work and separate to weld. So I bought a new one, capacitor version, much safer and much better welds and 4x more moeny. But now I am absolutely satisfied. .@@benperkins2929
This is my second spot welder. I burnt up the first more expensive one within a few minutes. RTFM, I guess. So I bought this one because it looked like the best of the inexpensive ones on the internet. It actually seems to work well, though it sure would be nice to have more, i.e. any, information on the segmented pulse welding function of this thing. I guess it will trial by error. I don't think I would of ever have gotten it to work if not for Steven's video. So, muchas gracias Steven. Oh, and I bought 3 more, all for $40.
It also seems to be controlling the sequence of pulses. The video 18:35 shows that during welding there is a series of three pulses, which are configured in the menu. And there are delays between the pulses, so before the first one you need to make a long delay. and the following ones are smaller.
Very interesting. My only issue is that I am not into "unboxing discovery" style of making videos... meaning I prefer the information to be explained by someone who has "already" gone thru that process and is providing the important details. I realize this means having to spend the time to edit them, but it also means higher quality videos too.
Your video on the JQ welder convinced me to give it a shot and I’m blown away by it. So far I’ve tried a 4S8P A123 pack and a 3S2P Headway pack (ruined a Headway so I’m down to 7). The A123 pack definitely seems more powerful. I’m spot welding 0.20mm thick pure nickel on the middle power setting with just one A123 pack and only 12AWG wire coming off the pack but I am using an 8AWG pen. I have some 6AWG for making even beefier pens but I haven’t figured out how I want to build it yet. I have another A123 pack and then about 24 good loose cells. It originally was a 12S8P pack I bought off eBay (they are $110 shipped and worth every penny, all you have to do is use a Dremel to cut the pack into thirds). I’m sure with a second A123 pack in parallel using some 6AWG or 2AWG I could blast through just about anything. I genuinely believe 0.30mm nickel might be possible and I’m sure I could do a copper nickel sandwich with 0.20mm copper. My CNHL Lipo was a terrible letdown. 5600mAh 3S2P “120C” with 7mR IR per cell. Absolute junk. If you need a power source for a spot welder get one of those A123 packs on eBay before they are sold out!
Another great review Steven. After trying a few options I still find the JQ-DHJ02B by far the best even better and much preferred than my BIFRC. I got the JQ one after one of your videos a yr ago and it does such a solid weld without burning any nickel. It also easily welds copper nickel sandwiches with ease. Perhaps you should add some tougher options for these spot welders to really compare and tell them apart as they ease through your 0.15 nickel. Try with copper or see how they get on with 0.3 nickel
Hello. I bought this device. I sharpened my welding pen. works with lipo 3s 5600 120c. I set the delay to 999 and the power to 20 on all three sections. the welds are repeatable and great. now I will try to make a copper-nickel sandwich. but I think he will do it without any problem. the power reserve is sufficient
I have done a copper nickel sandwich with 0.15 pure nickel and 0.15mm copper sheet. Used 20 - 200ms, 20 - 150ms, 20 - 100ms for seg 1, 2 ,and 3 with 600CCA Old Car Battery
@@stevenc22 Thanks for the reply. I have ordered the spot welder and battery. I will soon be building my first e bike battery. Your videos have been very helpful.
Thanks for your video. This spot welder seems much better than the two others I have tried. I don't see any other videos on RUclips about this particular board. Thanks for putting the link to it in your description. I just ordered myself one.
You can bypass the automatic trigger by interrupting the voltage sense track. I cut the small track on the back of the board behind the (IN-/GND) and soldered a connector from that to the (IN+). I can now use my foot pedal to trigger the weld.
What sort of connector did you add? I really want to add a foot pedal but i don't know how. Also , the new version (Which i have) has the mosfets attached back to front, instead of 2 rows.
@@orangehokage7 I just finished putting it together today. I haven't tested it on batteries yet, but it can weld 2 pieces of .2 mm pure nickel together no problem. What I ended up doing is after figuring out what track to cut is solder a thin wire to each side of the cut track then encase it in epoxy. For the connectors I used xt30 connectors soldered to the wires of the board and wires of the foot pedal. Polarity shouldn't matter since the foot pedal is an on/off switch. As for what trace to cut on the new version I can't say for sure. If you cut the wrong track you can always bridge it with solder.
IMHO, to prevent MOSFET frying: The answer is that with an insufficient battery, the high current discharge causes the battery voltage to drop below the operating voltage required by the control circuit. That causes the MOSFET to go to a higher resistance on state. Heat is generated and MOSFETs fry. Using a separate supply for the control circuit would prevent that. This unit makes it easy to do that with the separate input. OR, you can just get a sufficient battery and make sure the charge level is high enough to prevent the voltage from dropping too low when welding.
Ignore that noise, some people are ignorant enough to file and shape the tips sharper than needles, that's how you burn through a cell. Make your welding pen tips round, get a better high quality spot welding spring pen. this welder is fine, the electrodes in this kit are crap.@@bushratbeachbum
Just watched the video. I didn’t see the battery pack you powered the spot welder up with but suspect it’s the 11.1-5200mah You use in other spot welder video - ??
Would be interesting if the mcu can be custom flashed for better menu options and such. They do expose the SDA/SCL pins, so makes me think this might be possible. Can you tell what chip is the brains to this nice welder?
What is the principle of welding batteries? I understand the basics and that the welding spot should have the highest temperature for the shortest time. We have a spotter with a bunch of settings: first welding, second and third, where the second welding is the main welding and the third is hardening. There are also peripheral settings such as pause between pulses, current rise and fall times. So let's get down to business: the first and last welds should not have as high a current as the second. The first weld prepares the nickel strip for welding, the second welds it directly, and the third releases the strip. We have two main problems that I still can't figure out: 1. Why do the electrodes "stick" to the workpiece? According to my observations, this is due to the cross-sectional area of the electrode tip in contact with the nickel tape. On the one hand, a smaller contact area creates better welding, but the electrodes stick 👉👈 On the other hand, a larger area cooks worse. By increasing the current, the workpiece overheated too much and still nothing happened) 2. One electrode cooks and the other does not. In the case of DC welding, this is understandable. The "positive" electrode, where the current enters the battery substrate, welds better than the "negative" electrode, where the current leaves the battery. However, with AC welding, this is illogical for me, because the current flows back and forth across the workpiece. Maybe someone has a few gigabytes of information about welding batteries?) I want to absorb all the text from anyone that is related to welding batteries
Great review as always ❤I request another series of affordable diy spot welder like purple board with 99 gears (proper copper rod installed) /red maple etc
Hi Steven, u posted 3 spot welder. Is there any difference or is it only a slighty other design? Did you test your spot welder with an car battery? After some time how is it still working ?
Sometimes the links change on Ali Express. Only buy the same one that looks like the one in my video. The one in my video is very good. Yes i tested with car battery. Works the same as Lipo. This one is still working and probably my main spot welder right now.
I saw one of the reviews on aliexpress where the user blew it up on first use. That happened to me with the purple welder too. I might still buy it, although I can manage with the old red welder from late 2021, the version with the simple capacitor mod. Still works well.
@@yg7059 I bought the red welder in 2021 and have the version that only needs a capacitor, They have worked fine with a Turnigy 12V5AH 70-140C drone battery to do .15 nickel. I blew up two purple welders, Trouble is, I do not know if you can still buy the red welder or what mods the current versions require. That's why I have a spare. I would consider one of the supercapacitor welders, mainly because I don't like keeping a Li-po battery around.
I have the version with mosfets on both front and rear of the board. The buss bar doesn’t go all the way to the ground terminal which doesn’t seem correct. Can anyone clarify the track to cut to fit a foot pedal? Thanks
My welder died today after about 100 welds. Went out with a bang, blowing a mosfet and causing the battery to release a fury of sparks, fire and smoke. Figures, the store I got it from is called Ci-Boom.
Hi Steven, great video en reviews. Question have you already solved the innitial pulse timing issue?? If that cannot be solves i guess that thas it one of the main disadvantages of the spot welder
I think I sort of have it solved. The spot welder does three pulses. Each pulse is controlled by each of the three settings. So if you set the delay long on the first pulse and short on the other 2, it works like we want where is doesn't fire immediately but once it does fire it does all three pulses in quick succession
Steven Thanks, 1- What is the longest delay in time in (milli)seconds you can get before the first spot weld hits and is that long enough to stabilize the probes ? 2- If you now compare this spot welder with the JQ-DHJ02B which one would you buy and why? I want to buy one of these 2 spot welders for testing and experience and after that I might go for a kweld type of spotwelder. PS Found out on an Russian site (ruclips.net/video/5p70zYPeGRY/видео.html) that BRFIC has a max pulse of 70ms which is much longer than the other tested spot welders. This in combination with the 8 mosfet gives a great punch at the highest levels. The JQ-DHJ02B has a max spot weld pulse of approx. 35ms (ruclips.net/video/xylgjPVH8HE/видео.html). @@stevenc22
I am using it for something it's not intended for. I used it to tack nickel strips in a stainless metal case so i can mount an devboard/pi like board on the front without screw holes. I still don't understaind why it blew up and it burned to all the strips at l5
Yup, bought one from Ali, $26 down the drain in 8 spot welds. Didn’t even make it thru the setup/test weld process. Quality was off, u shaped incoming buss bar was soldered on crooked. Fingers crossed they (Ali) refund my $$.
Steven Thanks (posted previous comment on the wrong place) anyway , 1- What is the longest delay in time in (milli)seconds you can get before the first spot weld hits and is that long enough to stabilize the probes ? 2- If you now compare this spot welder with the JQ-DHJ02B which one would you buy and why? I want to buy one of these 2 spot welders for testing and experience and after that I might go for a kweld type of spotwelder. PS Found out on an Russian site (ruclips.net/video/5p70zYPeGRY/видео.html) that BIFRC has a max pulse of 70ms which is much longer than the other tested spot welders. This in combination with the 8 mosfet gives a great punch at the highest levels and maybe the reason it might get hotter in comparrisson to other spot welders. The JQ-DHJ02B has a max spot weld pulse of approx. 35ms (ruclips.net/video/xylgjPVH8HE/видео.html).
Seems like a cheapr ripoff from kweld. I hope they are not brass bars as you mentioned, because brass has only around 30% of the conductivity of copper (kinda the same as aluminium).
It must be able to do the copper nickel sandwhich. I have a JQ-DHJ02 with 6 mosfets and with that one I am able to weld 0.1Plated Nickel with 0.1mm Copper. I do that at 14.8V - 2nd setting - and measure 900-1000A current. I use 4 very old (> 10years) 5000hAh 45-90C batteries in parrallel. Before pushing the JQ-DHJ02 even futher I have to install first some TVS diodes for surge protection (probably the 1.5KE18A ) Attached link Russian user who actually weld the Copper Nickel. ruclips.net/video/JLL7fefjgLI/видео.html
You know you can use a regular TRIAC controller powered off an external battery? You don't need to mess around with this unreliable FET nonsense. Get a good dual pulse controller
@@ericklein5097 They fail too often & destroy what you're working on its not worth it. The last one that failed on me killed every FET & blew the tracks off the board it was terrible
@@neiliewheeliebini’m sick of blowing mosfets on my BifRC likely due to them being fake and ruining my battery or board. Could you recommend any spot welder which is not as expensive as kWeld and would do a 0.1mm pure copper + 0.15mm pure nickel sandwich? Thanks
15:14 you can see the spark going from lead to lead because you are laying them sideways instead of straight up and down. So many instructional videos from people who aren't even sure of what they are doing. 😂
I've bought it and checked it with an oscilloskope. It is genereting 3 pulses, SEG1 sets parameters of the first pulse, SEG2 is for the second and SEG3 is for the third one. You will want to set the deley in SEG1 to something like 500 to get the comfortable delay. All values in SEGs are in milliseconds, so 500 is half a second.
All mosfets are used as one block, they are driven from one single driver (TLP250) and are not divided in any way.
I would start with
seg1=2, delay=500; seg2=2, delay=10; seg3=10, delay=10
and fine tune the seg3=10 according to strip thickness and other conditions like battery voltage and internal resistance.
Seg3 is the pulse that does the real welding.
I have never seen a spot welder with 3 pulses, I don't know if it does make any sense to implement more pulses then 2. Other than that the board should be able to make some decent welds, I will try it with nickel-copper sandwich.
How did it do on the copper sandwich?
@@brenthawkins204 I did not have 0.1 copper, so I played with 0.04mm copper foil and 0.1 nickel plated strip on top and it did a fine job. I'm guessing there will be no problem with 0.1mm. I will try 0.2mm, I won't have a chance to test it for the next few weeks though.
I'm using supercapacitors, maxwell 350F in 3s2p arrangement at 7.5V. The only thing that got somewhat warm were the cables, I will probably switch from stock 10AWG to 6AWG and maybe try 3s3p.
@@kgrzeg have you tried greater thickness? why not use 2 large 2.7v 3000uf supercapacitors?
@@TheUltimateDIY Sorry for the delay.
My previous test were with bank of supercapacitors charged to 7.5V, it worked fine with 0.08mm copper. Few weeks later I got a car audio 1 farad 16V capacitor. It was HFC1000 form Hifonics. Its ESR is less then 1.5 mohm. After charging it to 12V (well within the welder specifications) I used it on copper 0.2mm. One mosfet has shorted. I have removed it and tried again with 7.5V supercapacitor. At least one more mosfet has blew, this time with small explosion.
I guess some mosfets were not shorted but still damaged and couldn't hold the stres they had no problem with before.
I'm guessing the very low internal resistance of the 1F capacitor charged to 12V delivered a current pulse high enough to produce EMF overvoltage and fried at least some of the mosfets. The manufacturer is probably testing it with lipos or car battery, both usually have higher ESR and so have lower short circuit current. So added a big 18V TVS diode to try and clamp overvoltage spikes between drain and source of the mosfet bank. But, I have not tested it yet.
I am aware that some cheap spot welder boards have a problem where the supply voltage drop can cause mosfet to fail to open at the and of the pulse, but I don't think this board is afflicted with this. I'm guessing it is the overvoltage spikes created by the self-inductance of the probe wires. I have already replaced the mosfets, added the TVS diode, and bought another HFC1000 cap (I have found one for 25USD, coudn't resist). When I will finally get around to try and actually use it, it'll be with 2 caps at 2F 0.75mohm. If the board survives this, it will survive anything.
Thank you so much! This information is very helpful. I bought one based on this video and revisited it after some initial confusion and found your comment which cleared everything up. Thanks again!
A three-stage pulse for a battery spot welder is an advanced technique used to enhance the welding process
1. Improved Heat Management
Pre-Weld Heating: The first pulse can be a low-energy pulse that preheats the materials to be welded. This initial pulse increases the temperature of the metal surfaces, reducing the resistance at the weld interface, which can make the subsequent main weld pulse more efficient.
Main Weld Pulse: The second, higher-energy pulse performs the actual welding by rapidly heating the metal to create the weld joint. This pulse must be carefully controlled to ensure it is strong enough to create a durable bond without overheating the materials.
Post-Weld Heat Treatment: The third pulse, which may be lower in energy than the main weld pulse, can serve to anneal the weld area, reducing stresses and the risk of crack formation in the weld. This can improve the overall strength and durability of the weld.
What do you reccommend setting the power and delay to then for the stages?
This is just what Chatgpt says, it recommends on average 20ms bw stages. @@benperkins2929
@@benperkins2929 i have that same question but i think it depends on the battery plus material and elevation that you are at bc the closer you are to the sun the more energy is conducted through the stratusphere
My battery =15v 120c discharge and my settings are seg 1 > 300 / 70 seg-2 & 3 = 350/ 100
Im using 0.2 nickel
It barely welds
@@1DumbSquirrel Oh does it allow 4S? In the video he is using 3S. WHen I look on Aliexpress is says it a 12v input.
Ordered one because of this video. Used the same battery as you. LED screen was DOA, but it works. Pro tip, inspect board closely. One side of the ground bar on mine was not soldered. I suspect thats the reason others are blowing these up.
You should connect the white power wire to a separate battery and connect the batteries negative to common ground so that the mosfets wont stay open during a voltage drop and frying the mosfets, especially when using lead acid battery as a source.
How did you manage all that in practice? What kind of battery you suggest as auxiliary power source?
That happened to me. It blown on the first run. Lead acid 40Ah but not charged. Even though I don't know how can they stay open if voltage is ok from thr battery. It drops to 11V but not less
I'm going to try power the board from a 9v battery and the actual spot welder to a 110ah lead acid 850cca battery
Be cautious with this. I believe the 9V battery caused the mosfets to stay open. 12.7v car battery. Fried mosfets.
Yeah, I burned mine on the first weld. It needs separate power supply to work and separate to weld. So I bought a new one, capacitor version, much safer and much better welds and 4x more moeny. But now I am absolutely satisfied. .@@benperkins2929
This is my second spot welder. I burnt up the first more expensive one within a few minutes. RTFM, I guess. So I bought this one because it looked like the best of the inexpensive ones on the internet.
It actually seems to work well, though it sure would be nice to have more, i.e. any, information on the segmented pulse welding function of this thing. I guess it will trial by error.
I don't think I would of ever have gotten it to work if not for Steven's video. So, muchas gracias Steven.
Oh, and I bought 3 more, all for $40.
Had a bait and switch with an even cheaper welder on my order for 3 of these , so that order is cancelled.
It also seems to be controlling the sequence of pulses. The video 18:35 shows that during welding there is a series of three pulses, which are configured in the menu. And there are delays between the pulses, so before the first one you need to make a long delay. and the following ones are smaller.
Very interesting. My only issue is that I am not into "unboxing discovery" style of making videos... meaning I prefer the information to be explained by someone who has "already" gone thru that process and is providing the important details. I realize this means having to spend the time to edit them, but it also means higher quality videos too.
...and complete sentences would be nice, at least every now and then.
Your video on the JQ welder convinced me to give it a shot and I’m blown away by it. So far I’ve tried a 4S8P A123 pack and a 3S2P Headway pack (ruined a Headway so I’m down to 7). The A123 pack definitely seems more powerful. I’m spot welding 0.20mm thick pure nickel on the middle power setting with just one A123 pack and only 12AWG wire coming off the pack but I am using an 8AWG pen. I have some 6AWG for making even beefier pens but I haven’t figured out how I want to build it yet.
I have another A123 pack and then about 24 good loose cells. It originally was a 12S8P pack I bought off eBay (they are $110 shipped and worth every penny, all you have to do is use a Dremel to cut the pack into thirds). I’m sure with a second A123 pack in parallel using some 6AWG or 2AWG I could blast through just about anything. I genuinely believe 0.30mm nickel might be possible and I’m sure I could do a copper nickel sandwich with 0.20mm copper.
My CNHL Lipo was a terrible letdown. 5600mAh 3S2P “120C” with 7mR IR per cell. Absolute junk.
If you need a power source for a spot welder get one of those A123 packs on eBay before they are sold out!
Another great review Steven. After trying a few options I still find the JQ-DHJ02B by far the best even better and much preferred than my BIFRC. I got the JQ one after one of your videos a yr ago and it does such a solid weld without burning any nickel. It also easily welds copper nickel sandwiches with ease. Perhaps you should add some tougher options for these spot welders to really compare and tell them apart as they ease through your 0.15 nickel. Try with copper or see how they get on with 0.3 nickel
Hello. I bought this device. I sharpened my welding pen. works with lipo 3s 5600 120c. I set the delay to 999 and the power to 20 on all three sections. the welds are repeatable and great. now I will try to make a copper-nickel sandwich. but I think he will do it without any problem. the power reserve is sufficient
I have done a copper nickel sandwich with 0.15 pure nickel and 0.15mm copper sheet. Used 20 - 200ms, 20 - 150ms, 20 - 100ms for seg 1, 2 ,and 3 with 600CCA Old Car Battery
2. Enhanced Weld Quality 3. Reduced Thermal Damage 4. Adaptability to Different Materials 5. Control Over Weld Penetration and Aesthetics
Do you monitor the cells of the 3s lipo battery while welding? How many welds do you get before needing to recharge the lipo?
I don't really monitor. The lipo lasts a long time. I built my whole bike battery and the lipo only went down 25%
@@stevenc22 Thanks for the reply. I have ordered the spot welder and battery. I will soon be building my first e bike battery. Your videos have been very helpful.
looks to be a good option welder going forward, shame it doesn't have an on board connection for a foot switch,
Thanks for your video. This spot welder seems much better than the two others I have tried. I don't see any other videos on RUclips about this particular board. Thanks for putting the link to it in your description. I just ordered myself one.
You can bypass the automatic trigger by interrupting the voltage sense track. I cut the small track on the back of the board behind the (IN-/GND) and soldered a connector from that to the (IN+). I can now use my foot pedal to trigger the weld.
What sort of connector did you add? I really want to add a foot pedal but i don't know how. Also , the new version (Which i have) has the mosfets attached back to front, instead of 2 rows.
@@orangehokage7 I just finished putting it together today. I haven't tested it on batteries yet, but it can weld 2 pieces of .2 mm pure nickel together no problem. What I ended up doing is after figuring out what track to cut is solder a thin wire to each side of the cut track then encase it in epoxy. For the connectors I used xt30 connectors soldered to the wires of the board and wires of the foot pedal. Polarity shouldn't matter since the foot pedal is an on/off switch. As for what trace to cut on the new version I can't say for sure. If you cut the wrong track you can always bridge it with solder.
@@orangehokage7 Unfortunately the welder blew a mosfet and shorted out today. I would stay away from this one.
IMHO, to prevent MOSFET frying: The answer is that with an insufficient battery, the high current discharge causes the battery voltage to drop below the operating voltage required by the control circuit. That causes the MOSFET to go to a higher resistance on state. Heat is generated and MOSFETs fry. Using a separate supply for the control circuit would prevent that. This unit makes it easy to do that with the separate input. OR, you can just get a sufficient battery and make sure the charge level is high enough to prevent the voltage from dropping too low when welding.
That looks like a really good spot welder the issue I will have with it there is no manual feature
Careful with those powerful spot welders. They punch super small microscopic holes into the cell walls and the electrolyte escapes away slowly.
Really?
How have you discovered this?
Ignore that noise, some people are ignorant enough to file and shape the tips sharper than needles, that's how you burn through a cell. Make your welding pen tips round, get a better high quality spot welding spring pen. this welder is fine, the electrodes in this kit are crap.@@bushratbeachbum
Would you like to try pure nickel strip 0.1-0.3 mm thick?
The delay is there so you can do 3 hits with the Mosfets. Very nice feature!
Just watched the video. I didn’t see the battery pack you powered the spot welder up with but suspect it’s the 11.1-5200mah You use in other spot welder video - ??
Yes. 3s lipo 80c
Can it weld copper nickel
I might have missed it - but did you also test with a lead acid battery? Thanks.
I did not. Follow up coming!
Would be interesting if the mcu can be custom flashed for better menu options and such.
They do expose the SDA/SCL pins, so makes me think this might be possible.
Can you tell what chip is the brains to this nice welder?
MS51FB9AE - Nuvoton
Any updates on this? Copper Nickel Sandwich?
What is the principle of welding batteries? I understand the basics and that the welding spot should have the highest temperature for the shortest time. We have a spotter with a bunch of settings: first welding, second and third, where the second welding is the main welding and the third is hardening. There are also peripheral settings such as pause between pulses, current rise and fall times.
So let's get down to business: the first and last welds should not have as high a current as the second. The first weld prepares the nickel strip for welding, the second welds it directly, and the third releases the strip.
We have two main problems that I still can't figure out:
1. Why do the electrodes "stick" to the workpiece? According to my observations, this is due to the cross-sectional area of the electrode tip in contact with the nickel tape. On the one hand, a smaller contact area creates better welding, but the electrodes stick 👉👈 On the other hand, a larger area cooks worse. By increasing the current, the workpiece overheated too much and still nothing happened)
2. One electrode cooks and the other does not. In the case of DC welding, this is understandable. The "positive" electrode, where the current enters the battery substrate, welds better than the "negative" electrode, where the current leaves the battery. However, with AC welding, this is illogical for me, because the current flows back and forth across the workpiece.
Maybe someone has a few gigabytes of information about welding batteries?) I want to absorb all the text from anyone that is related to welding batteries
Brass buss bars are not as great as you think. Tin-plated copper bus bar tin plated should have been used for this application.
Great review as always ❤I request another series of affordable diy spot welder like purple board with 99 gears (proper copper rod installed) /red maple etc
Hi Steven, u posted 3 spot welder. Is there any difference or is it only a slighty other design? Did you test your spot welder with an car battery? After some time how is it still working ?
Sometimes the links change on Ali Express. Only buy the same one that looks like the one in my video. The one in my video is very good. Yes i tested with car battery. Works the same as Lipo. This one is still working and probably my main spot welder right now.
Man 20 whole minutes for what could be 3
2X Speed and going straight to the comments makes a bit of a difference.
I saw one of the reviews on aliexpress where the user blew it up on first use. That happened to me with the purple welder too. I might still buy it, although I can manage with the old red welder from late 2021, the version with the simple capacitor mod. Still works well.
Did you find anything better then the red one, I’m considering buying that one
@@yg7059 I bought the red welder in 2021 and have the version that only needs a capacitor, They have worked fine with a Turnigy 12V5AH 70-140C drone battery to do .15 nickel. I blew up two purple welders, Trouble is, I do not know if you can still buy the red welder or what mods the current versions require. That's why I have a spare.
I would consider one of the supercapacitor welders, mainly because I don't like keeping a Li-po battery around.
I got one of these and one of the mosfets popped after two dozen welds 😞
Nice work! I wanna diy a 18650/21700 battery pack，could you please tell me which spot welder works well and where to buy one？Thanks!
buenas mi hermano como estas bien. pregunta cuanto vale y donde lo puedo comprar
I want to buy this spot welder and use a car battery to power it, but i don't want to fry the mofset. What can i do?
I have the version with mosfets on both front and rear of the board. The buss bar doesn’t go all the way to the ground terminal which doesn’t seem correct. Can anyone clarify the track to cut to fit a foot pedal? Thanks
How does this work with a server power ?
My welder died today after about 100 welds. Went out with a bang, blowing a mosfet and causing the battery to release a fury of sparks, fire and smoke. Figures, the store I got it from is called Ci-Boom.
왜 당신 영상이 유튜브 메인 화면에 올라왔는지 모르겠습니다.
하지만 영상을 보니 저와 같은 취미를 가졌네요.
영상 잘봤습니다. 👍
Hi Steven, great video en reviews. Question have you already solved the innitial pulse timing issue?? If that cannot be solves i guess that thas it one of the main disadvantages of the spot welder
I think I sort of have it solved. The spot welder does three pulses. Each pulse is controlled by each of the three settings. So if you set the delay long on the first pulse and short on the other 2, it works like we want where is doesn't fire immediately but once it does fire it does all three pulses in quick succession
Steven Thanks,
1- What is the longest delay in time in (milli)seconds you can get before the first spot weld hits and is that long enough to stabilize the probes ?
2- If you now compare this spot welder with the JQ-DHJ02B which one would you buy and why?
I want to buy one of these 2 spot welders for testing and experience and after that I might go for a kweld type of spotwelder.
PS Found out on an Russian site (ruclips.net/video/5p70zYPeGRY/видео.html) that BRFIC has a max pulse of 70ms which is much longer than the other tested spot welders. This in combination with the 8 mosfet gives a great punch at the highest levels.
The JQ-DHJ02B has a max spot weld pulse of approx. 35ms (ruclips.net/video/xylgjPVH8HE/видео.html).
@@stevenc22
Just a heads ip I purchased from the first aliexpress link and I did not get the advertised spot welder. I got a different one.
Sorry man. That sucks!
I also have this welder. I would like to see what you've figured out. I was getting huge sparks on what I thought was the lowest setting.
I have the same problem, even at 8 i blow throug the strip
@michaelzweers1807 My big LiFePO4 battery is 13.8 volts. I'm thinking I need a lower voltage source. What is nominal voltage on your power pack?
I was using level 1
@@jspencerg i was on a 3 pack that was charged to 85%. The unit said the voltage was 12v~ . But mine is dead now. The fets blew them self up :(
I am using it for something it's not intended for. I used it to tack nickel strips in a stainless metal case so i can mount an devboard/pi like board on the front without screw holes. I still don't understaind why it blew up and it burned to all the strips at l5
AvE sounds different today.
Yup, bought one from Ali, $26 down the drain in 8 spot welds. Didn’t even make it thru the setup/test weld process. Quality was off, u shaped incoming buss bar was soldered on crooked. Fingers crossed they (Ali) refund my $$.
What battery capacity and type did you use?
3s 80c lipo
More Power BABY!!!
A new firmware on this, and it should all be set - perhaps it's hackable? ;)
Try the Kweld you will see what's the King
Agreed but K Weld is very expensive
@@stevenc22 you've got what you paid for
Steven Thanks (posted previous comment on the wrong place) anyway ,
1- What is the longest delay in time in (milli)seconds you can get before the first spot weld hits and is that long enough to stabilize the probes ?
2- If you now compare this spot welder with the JQ-DHJ02B which one would you buy and why?
I want to buy one of these 2 spot welders for testing and experience and after that I might go for a kweld type of spotwelder.
PS Found out on an Russian site (ruclips.net/video/5p70zYPeGRY/видео.html) that BIFRC has a max pulse of 70ms which is much longer than the other tested spot welders. This in combination with the 8 mosfet gives a great punch at the highest levels and maybe the reason it might get hotter in comparrisson to other spot welders.
The JQ-DHJ02B has a max spot weld pulse of approx. 35ms (ruclips.net/video/xylgjPVH8HE/видео.html).
Seems like a cheapr ripoff from kweld. I hope they are not brass bars as you mentioned, because brass has only around 30% of the conductivity of copper (kinda the same as aluminium).
Mine are made of copper.
They updated them now with a newer design, mine seem to perform on par with kweld but I wonder how long it would last lol.
I just received one of these welders and you're are correct: the buss bars are brass, not copper.
Read the manual allready!!
thanks you helped a lot
Glad it helped
Preferably before you make a video!!
BOB BROSS
It must be able to do the copper nickel sandwhich. I have a JQ-DHJ02 with 6 mosfets and with that one I am able to weld 0.1Plated Nickel with 0.1mm Copper. I do that at 14.8V - 2nd setting - and measure 900-1000A current. I use 4 very old (> 10years) 5000hAh 45-90C batteries in parrallel. Before pushing the JQ-DHJ02 even futher I have to install first some TVS diodes for surge protection (probably the 1.5KE18A ) Attached link Russian user who actually weld the Copper Nickel. ruclips.net/video/JLL7fefjgLI/видео.html
This thing breaks after less than a couple days of use.
i ordered it, and it fucking blew up into my face pretty spectacular. dont buy it people
Blew up?
@@xwatchid yep, into my face
What power source were you using for it?
more Chinese cloning someone elses hard work
You know you can use a regular TRIAC controller powered off an external battery? You don't need to mess around with this unreliable FET nonsense. Get a good dual pulse controller
Unreliable fet nonsense? If you use genuine fets and a battery that doesn’t sag too much then you won’t have any problems.
@@ericklein5097 They fail too often & destroy what you're working on its not worth it. The last one that failed on me killed every FET & blew the tracks off the board it was terrible
Cuz you don't know what you're doing@@neiliewheeliebin
@@ernieschatz3783Your standards are low if you think this is a good welder, you have no idea obviously
@@neiliewheeliebini’m sick of blowing mosfets on my BifRC likely due to them being fake and ruining my battery or board. Could you recommend any spot welder which is not as expensive as kWeld and would do a 0.1mm pure copper + 0.15mm pure nickel sandwich? Thanks
Please stop saying bbbbrrrraaaaasssss.
Hi, can I use a 12v motorcycle battery with a 25 ah capacity? Its a DEEP CYCLE AGM Lead Acid Type kind. TIA
Yeah that is about big enough
15:14 you can see the spark going from lead to lead because you are laying them sideways instead of straight up and down. So many instructional videos from people who aren't even sure of what they are doing. 😂