Thanks so much for this. I half-assed a few bad practice batteries to get an idea of how spot welding works. I now know some of the mistakes I was making. I didn't even know the spacing between my electrodes could be adjusted. Very helpful.
There are two things I do for perfect spot welds. First I run used electrodes across a piece of fine emery cloth. Since I am also a Tig welder it is most important that there is no burn oxidation on the electrodes or if so you get an uneven current path or poor weld. I also know that we can only spot weld with the electrodes on one side.⚠ I thought about springs under the electrodes for equal pressure. I found a much better workaround. I place the battery pack between a loose fitting wood jig to keep cells vertical. Loose enough so no binding in the jig when finger pressing on the top of the pack. Under the pack I have a small 3/8" strip of plastic foam similar to the black pads found in some equipment cases. (I don't remember what old case they came from). Do not use foam rubber or styrofoam. When I press the electrodes on the nickel strip it allows the pack to shift a tiny bit giving almost equal pressure on each electrode.👌 This gives me excellent welds under both electrodes without one with great penetration and the other almost none. 🧡. A quick scratch across cleaning strip and on to the next weld.💥
I have an older spot welder Sunkko 788H, which doesn’t have the remote handle. Due to this reason, I find it very very difficult to spot Battery Banks eg: 3S5P and so on. Your demo is prompting me to procure a handle, like yours to ease the job. Thanks again.
Very good overview of ALL the factors, with the physics! Thank You! Also good IPM (Information per minute)! I was intently listening and relating your info to my project in a Flow; EXCELLENT timing on your part! Or is that Pace...OK,just call it IPM (yes, I'm building a spot welder from my "junk box" parts, so results WILL vary.....6xIGBTs, 556, 12v 10A batt, trickle charged, )
Thanks a lot for detail info' on spot welding ( esp. for 18650 cells). S= space and size of the electrode. P=pulse or period of welding time. O= operating system of electrical power, eg. dc,ac.or pulsating dc. And T=temperature or Amps. used by the machine for welding the work piece . What about my thinking ?
Thanks! I have spot welds on a CR2032 type button battery for a tire pressure sensor. What’s the best way to remove those spot welds to replace the battery? Will a regular solder gun heat up enough to remove them? I don’t wanna eat the battery too much obviously
My spot welder is collecting dust as my first experience did not go so well. Maybe I will try again doing the fuses on 1 pack. As usual Great Tutorial!!!
I built a spot welder using micro wave transformer. I can vary the number of ac cycles and delay per half cycle. Not really pulses but negative and positive half sine waves. So I have a lot of control but can get consistant welds. I like your probe I think it is better than the the cables I bought. What shape do you recommend on the electrodes, pointy, round, knive edge ?
Ahh Dar, nice to find you... I'm having problems with spot welding fuse wire onto cell (no probs with nickel to cell or nickel to nickel)... lets see if I find an answer or else I'll see you on SLS :D jes
What would you think about having one larger tip to contact the battery case and the smaller tip to do the welding. I would think the larger contact area of the larger tip would do less damage to the battery case and the smaller contact of the small tip would weld more efficiently? If I could afford one this is what I would try.
For spot welding fuse-wire i think that would be worth testing! I think that would save you the probability to weld through at the tip that is not on the fuse-wire. For normal spot-welding you want the small ones
so where do I get a spot welder and how much are they? sounds like it might be worthwhile to get one, as it would pay for itself after several battery rehabs.
Great video! Even though I have my own home-made set up powered by a [too big] car battery, a 300A starter solenoid, a DROK timer [that goes down to the 0.05 second timing I find workable] and a momentary trigger button, I picked up several useful tips from you. Thanks. You might update your product links since the google shortened links don't work any more and aren't earning you anything. Also, the welding pen you use seems a bit hard for me (in the US) to track down with the retracting tip shafts as non of the ebay listings state anything about that capability. Think they all are anyway? If you'd add a link to one in the US, or ships here, I'd be happy to use it. I'll be heading over to your main site to poke around since I also have solar on my house. Thanks again!
Hi there, thanks for the vid. A quick question, if the probes of the spot welder put at either end of the battery and cause a surge of current through it. Will this cause an explosion?
Hey Daniel, thanks for the video! you mentioned that you would have a link to determine whether the nickel plates are thick enoug for the application, but I can't find it?
Great video but I wish you'd mentioned what THICKNESS of nickel strip you were using when you began the experimenting here at the 11 minute mark. I'm sure many viewers would feel the same.
I'm thinking about getting one of these spot welders and wondering about the longevity of them. How long do you think your Ebay spot welder will last before it breaks down (doing fuses and nickel strips)?
Its a very good question and Im not sure. Perhaps google can get you the answers? If the spot welder breaks down its most likely the electronics and they can easily be switchet out to an Arduino if you have that knowledge.
Do you know why my electrodes that are standard copper after ten dots they are blunt? Don't know how others can solder in videos like on a machine gun to a fixed electrodes station for example. I have to hold the metal fille near by and stop after a few cells, is this normal? I have the 99gear spot welding board to 25-30 gear, connected to a car batt, don't press to much, keep them about 3-4mm apart..
Flying sparks can also mean that your strip is not pure nickel, but rather nickel-plated steel. This has a lot more resistance than pure nickel. It's a disadvantage for carrying current, but actually an advantage if you want to sport weld copper. Copper is too conductive to easily spot weld with a hobbyist spot welder, but if you put nickel or steel on top, copper 0.1mm in between and the cell at the bottom, the resistive metal will get hot enough to weld the copper to the cell.
Hi, Thank you for your video, could you help me learn how to spot weld stainless steel rings closed. The rings are used on jewellery, so they are very small. some diameters of the wire are .6mm-1.2mm. thank you for your help
You most likely will need a PUK-welder for that. There are a few different models, but the most important part is that they weld a bit of material INTO the joint instead of joining two metals without any material added. The more advanced models even pull the electrode away as it makes the weld. Those units are timer-controlled most of the time, but even though the weld is extremely short, the electrode has to be removed to quench the arc.
@@erikgarston1395 I'm afraid not. I'm no expert, but did look into PUK-welding once, to see if I could utilize it for scratch-building. That's the way I found out it usually incorporates an additive to close gaps/joints. I would seriously avoid trying to weld lithium cells with such devices, as they seem to get extremely hot and are easily able to melt materials. With the thin housings of the average lithium cell, not a good idea ;) Especially the electrode configuration with lithium spotwelding is a little different, as lithium-cell spotwelding incorporates having the two electrodes on the same material, where PUK-welding usually has the metal you are working with connected to an electrode, with the welding-electrode (a sharp, pointy electrode) being the other. The arc between the two joins the parts or closes gaps.
@@weeardguy Its only a hobby I like to do after work, these machines are a but expensive for my application. Thank you for your input it is really helpful to me. I will try configure something from the information you have given. thanks again
I havent. There is so many different type of nickel strips and sizes. The one I used here i used 10p and power set to 6.5 roughly. That worked well. Can go to power 7 as well
good video, not super long when it's contains full details for every level of cooking nickel would've been good to have quick howto on knowing which nickel strips are dodgy online and which to buy.
You can spot weld with car battery or caps yes. You just need to get some electronics that can turn it on and off. Mosfets of some kind and all that. There is kits out there that you can build.
Make sure to use the 220VAC version rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575290868&campid=5338074051&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FSUNKKO-709AD-2-2KW-110V-220V-Batterie-Digital-Punktschweisgerate-Schweisgerat%2F362702442803%3Fhash%3Ditem5472c01133%3Am%3Am3fllu_cNmNYhHkTTskHO9w
There are too many errors in your video that contradict the facts. 1) 2:32 The probes on the different terminals of the battery do not kill it, but rather restore it - remove the dendrites. The main thing is not to burn out the battery itself and the safety valve. the pulses should be very short and intermittent. 2) 3:28 For a good welder, the dependence of the quality of the points and the presence of the experience track is weakly dependent on the distance between the points and should not differ by 2-10 mm. if it's different, then your welder sucks.
Plus: 5:40 Stating *must* use probs at *90°* aka *_perpendicular_* to strip/battery. As opposed to w/any sort of angle, which IMO is nearly essential, esp w/o a "pen style" welder. To what degree varies depending on application, but 90° when using separate probes is not very practical and can create resistance issues leading to poor welds. 3:10 As well as his mention of needing "very very firm pressure" when welding, rather than just enough to make sure there's good contact. IME Too much can burn it esp when applying probes completely perpendicular (90°) to the nickel strip. 4:21 Another issue: *Essential* to have "Even Pressure" on each probe when welding + must have "spring loaded" probes, both not true at all. 7:03 He greatly contradicts himself now stating to use *"Gentle Pressure"* on the probes. I believe about 250 grams worth, idk how the avg DIY user is going to make that calculation, but it is what it is. _To clarify the correct amount is just enough to ensure solid contact_ I don't think any of the issues are intentional and to each his own. Not hating but this will waste a lot of users time and perhaps property as well. My suggestion is to practice and do your own research never relying on just one (or two) opinion [esp online]. Good luck.
One of the best tutorials on spot welding . Thx a lot.
Thank you, very much. I learned that a space between the electrode must be 2~2.5mm for optimum welded joint. Appreciate your advice.
*_1.5 ~ 2.0mm_*
Thanks so much for this. I half-assed a few bad practice batteries to get an idea of how spot welding works. I now know some of the mistakes I was making. I didn't even know the spacing between my electrodes could be adjusted. Very helpful.
There are two things I do for perfect spot welds. First I run used electrodes across a piece of fine emery cloth.
Since I am also a Tig welder it is most important that there is no burn oxidation on the electrodes or if so you get an uneven current path or poor weld.
I also know that we can only spot weld with the electrodes on one side.⚠
I thought about springs under the electrodes for equal pressure.
I found a much better workaround.
I place the battery pack between a loose fitting wood jig to keep cells vertical. Loose enough so no binding in the jig when finger pressing on the top of the pack.
Under the pack I have a small 3/8" strip of plastic foam similar to the black pads found in some equipment cases. (I don't remember what old case they came from). Do not use foam rubber or styrofoam.
When I press the electrodes on the nickel strip it allows the pack to shift a tiny bit giving almost equal pressure on each electrode.👌
This gives me excellent welds under both electrodes without one with great penetration and the other almost none. 🧡.
A quick scratch across cleaning strip and on to the next weld.💥
I have an older spot welder Sunkko 788H, which doesn’t have the remote handle. Due to this reason, I find it very very difficult to spot Battery Banks eg: 3S5P and so on. Your demo is prompting me to procure a handle, like yours to ease the job. Thanks again.
Very good overview of ALL the factors, with the physics! Thank You! Also good IPM (Information per minute)! I was intently listening and relating your info to my project in a Flow; EXCELLENT timing on your part! Or is that Pace...OK,just call it IPM (yes, I'm building a spot welder from my "junk box" parts, so results WILL vary.....6xIGBTs, 556, 12v 10A batt, trickle charged, )
Thanks for nice tips. Please inform what size of inside spring you are using? Dia, no. Of turns & length. Regards
Thank you for the very informative video about spot welding with fuse wire
and How spot welding works
Thanks a lot for detail info' on spot welding ( esp. for 18650 cells). S= space and size of the electrode. P=pulse or period of welding time. O= operating system of electrical power, eg. dc,ac.or pulsating dc. And T=temperature or Amps. used by the machine for welding the work piece . What about my thinking ?
Thanks! I have spot welds on a CR2032 type button battery for a tire pressure sensor. What’s the best way to remove those spot welds to replace the battery? Will a regular solder gun heat up enough to remove them? I don’t wanna eat the battery too much obviously
My spot welder is collecting dust as my first experience did not go so well. Maybe I will try again doing the fuses on 1 pack.
As usual Great Tutorial!!!
Hello Sir, This is really great video. I learned settings of spot welding machine.. Can you guide me how to replace pen tip of this machine?
I built a spot welder using micro wave transformer. I can vary the number of ac cycles and delay per half cycle. Not really pulses but negative and positive half sine waves. So I have a lot of control but can get consistant welds. I like your probe I think it is better than the the cables I bought. What shape do you recommend on the electrodes, pointy, round, knive edge ?
Very good tutorial! I learned a lot from this about adjustments that I did not know I could make. I really appreciate that you made this video. Thanks
Ahh Dar, nice to find you... I'm having problems with spot welding fuse wire onto cell (no probs with nickel to cell or nickel to nickel)... lets see if I find an answer or else I'll see you on SLS :D jes
Thanks a lot for the tips and for taking the time to make this video
Great tutorial. Thank you!
What would you think about having one larger tip to contact the battery case and the smaller tip to do the welding. I would think the larger contact area of the larger tip would do less damage to the battery case and the smaller contact of the small tip would weld more efficiently? If I could afford one this is what I would try.
For spot welding fuse-wire i think that would be worth testing! I think that would save you the probability to weld through at the tip that is not on the fuse-wire. For normal spot-welding you want the small ones
so where do I get a spot welder and how much are they? sounds like it might be worthwhile to get one, as it would pay for itself after several battery rehabs.
Thanks for information. That's beautiful.
Yep you said it perfect. That is what I did before I started mine thanks for showing
Great video! Even though I have my own home-made set up powered by a [too big] car battery, a 300A starter solenoid, a DROK timer [that goes down to the 0.05 second timing I find workable] and a momentary trigger button, I picked up several useful tips from you. Thanks. You might update your product links since the google shortened links don't work any more and aren't earning you anything. Also, the welding pen you use seems a bit hard for me (in the US) to track down with the retracting tip shafts as non of the ebay listings state anything about that capability. Think they all are anyway? If you'd add a link to one in the US, or ships here, I'd be happy to use it. I'll be heading over to your main site to poke around since I also have solar on my house. Thanks again!
Oh, I use tinyURL now that Google URL shortener went away.
@@DeeBeesvideochannel yeah should go back and change Links on My videos :)
Hi there, thanks for the vid.
A quick question, if the probes of the spot welder put at either end of the battery and cause a surge of current through it. Will this cause an explosion?
Try it ;) No dont. It can in best case cause a dead battery and in worst case set it on fire
@@DIYTechRepairs Thanks for your effort in testing it out. :-)
That flashing led on the potentiometer would drive me nuts
Thanks a lot! Cheers from Germany
Hey Daniel, thanks for the video! you mentioned that you would have a link to determine whether the nickel plates are thick enoug for the application, but I can't find it?
images.app.goo.gl/5hozJY9sFgvqdHgQA
Great video thanks. I'm about to buy a 709a spot welder, do you rate it well? Thanks
Great video but I wish you'd mentioned what THICKNESS of nickel strip you were using when you began the experimenting here at the 11 minute mark. I'm sure many viewers would feel the same.
Hi Daniel, i would love to see how you build the cheap ass spott welder ;)
I'm thinking about getting one of these spot welders and wondering about the longevity of them. How long do you think your Ebay spot welder will last before it breaks down (doing fuses and nickel strips)?
Its a very good question and Im not sure. Perhaps google can get you the answers? If the spot welder breaks down its most likely the electronics and they can easily be switchet out to an Arduino if you have that knowledge.
Hey thanks a lot man! Very helpful and informative. I appreciate you for saving me from starting a fire lol
Would love to see how you build the cheap welder! Also why do my electrodes stick to the nickel everytime? Very difficult to remove 😭 many thanks!
Too long pulse or too low contact pressure can make the electrodes stick.
learned what i needed to know. Thanks
Thank you for a great, informative presentation.
it was so useful and so helpful thanks
I'm very interested in the DIY cheap ass transformer spot welder! I have a transformer from a 660 watt ups that I could utilize.
Not all transformers are useable but your might. MOT are known to be easily modified. Especially for this purpose even though they arent optimal.
DIY Tech & Repairs
MOT?
Micro Owen Transformer
Do you know why my electrodes that are standard copper after ten dots they are blunt? Don't know how others can solder in videos like on a machine gun to a fixed electrodes station for example. I have to hold the metal fille near by and stop after a few cells, is this normal? I have the 99gear spot welding board to 25-30 gear, connected to a car batt, don't press to much, keep them about 3-4mm apart..
During the video timing 11:00, you fingers touch on the strip while welding, wouldn’t you get electric shock? Sorry I don’t know about spot welding.
It's low voltage so you won't feel it. :)
Very good video. Thank you for making this.
Flying sparks can also mean that your strip is not pure nickel, but rather nickel-plated steel.
This has a lot more resistance than pure nickel. It's a disadvantage for carrying current, but actually an advantage if you want to sport weld copper. Copper is too conductive to easily spot weld with a hobbyist spot welder, but if you put nickel or steel on top, copper 0.1mm in between and the cell at the bottom, the resistive metal will get hot enough to weld the copper to the cell.
Nice tutorial. Thank you for the good work.
Hi friend. I want time période and output voltage of the spark.. Nice day. Your friend from Sangapour.
Hi, Thank you for your video, could you help me learn how to spot weld stainless steel rings closed. The rings are used on jewellery, so they are very small. some diameters of the wire are .6mm-1.2mm. thank you for your help
You most likely will need a PUK-welder for that. There are a few different models, but the most important part is that they weld a bit of material INTO the joint instead of joining two metals without any material added. The more advanced models even pull the electrode away as it makes the weld. Those units are timer-controlled most of the time, but even though the weld is extremely short, the electrode has to be removed to quench the arc.
@@weeardguy thank you for your information, so fusion welding is not good ?
@@erikgarston1395 I'm afraid not. I'm no expert, but did look into PUK-welding once, to see if I could utilize it for scratch-building. That's the way I found out it usually incorporates an additive to close gaps/joints. I would seriously avoid trying to weld lithium cells with such devices, as they seem to get extremely hot and are easily able to melt materials. With the thin housings of the average lithium cell, not a good idea ;)
Especially the electrode configuration with lithium spotwelding is a little different, as lithium-cell spotwelding incorporates having the two electrodes on the same material, where PUK-welding usually has the metal you are working with connected to an electrode, with the welding-electrode (a sharp, pointy electrode) being the other. The arc between the two joins the parts or closes gaps.
@@weeardguy Its only a hobby I like to do after work, these machines are a but expensive for my application. Thank you for your input it is really helpful to me. I will try configure something from the information you have given. thanks again
@@erikgarston1395 haha, don't worry, I'm only a hobbyist myself and I'm now working on my DIY-spotwelder for lithium cells myself.
Solid video! Thanks for the tips.
Would there be any problem using the weld machine if you have a pacemaker?
Shouldnt be. You aint inducing it in your Body but perhaps check with a doctor
Have you developed any recommended settings for various thicknesses of the nickel strip?
I havent. There is so many different type of nickel strips and sizes. The one I used here i used 10p and power set to 6.5 roughly. That worked well. Can go to power 7 as well
Could you please tell us how the welder pen rods are changed.
good video, not super long when it's contains full details for every level of cooking nickel
would've been good to have quick howto on knowing which nickel strips are dodgy online and which to buy.
Was thinking of that part but I dont have enough knowledge myself to say which ones are good. Might be that I follow that up in short
Sand the strip and soak in salt water. Look for corrosion . Pure ni will not rust and will not spark when cut with grinder.
why do you use that fuse wire? what is the purpose of it?
It's fuse for dead shorts. Same as tesla did on their batteries with that type of cells.
typiskt svengelska!lol
enyoyed this video lol
What the electrode tips are made of, I use copper tips but they won't last long. Thanks
I use Cooper too. Works as Long as you dont over heat them
You can resharpen copper when dull.. load up in drill to resharpen tips. I just make several sets at a time
Test for cmos cell baterai
Hi it's possible changing the needle of the pen spot welder? thanks
Yes it is
@@DIYTechRepairs how?
Yis is german youtuber? Or perhaps czech?
Thanks that is great
Would that weld glass fuse leg's onto the cells though, that is the real question. ???
Garuthius Hall check out my video about that ;)
great!
Really nice. :)
How about a cheap ass spot welder straight off a car battery (without transformer)?
You can spot weld with car battery or caps yes. You just need to get some electronics that can turn it on and off. Mosfets of some kind and all that. There is kits out there that you can build.
I inyoyed this video
please link tool
Make sure to use the 220VAC version rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575290868&campid=5338074051&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FSUNKKO-709AD-2-2KW-110V-220V-Batterie-Digital-Punktschweisgerate-Schweisgerat%2F362702442803%3Fhash%3Ditem5472c01133%3Am%3Am3fllu_cNmNYhHkTTskHO9w
Yes...Cheap-ass spot welder...
There are too many errors in your video that contradict the facts.
1) 2:32 The probes on the different terminals of the battery do not kill it, but rather restore it - remove the dendrites. The main thing is not to burn out the battery itself and the safety valve. the pulses should be very short and intermittent.
2) 3:28 For a good welder, the dependence of the quality of the points and the presence of the experience track is weakly dependent on the distance between the points and should not differ by 2-10 mm. if it's different, then your welder sucks.
Plus:
5:40 Stating *must* use probs at *90°* aka
*_perpendicular_* to strip/battery. As opposed to w/any sort of angle, which IMO is nearly essential, esp w/o a "pen style" welder. To what degree varies depending on application, but 90° when using separate probes is not very practical and can create resistance issues leading to poor welds.
3:10 As well as his mention of needing "very very firm pressure" when welding, rather than just enough to make sure there's good contact. IME Too much can burn it esp when applying probes completely perpendicular (90°) to the nickel strip.
4:21 Another issue: *Essential* to have "Even Pressure" on each probe when welding + must have "spring loaded" probes, both not true at all.
7:03 He greatly contradicts himself now stating to use *"Gentle Pressure"* on the probes. I believe about 250 grams worth, idk how the avg DIY user is going to make that calculation, but it is what it is. _To clarify the correct amount is just enough to ensure solid contact_
I don't think any of the issues are intentional and to each his own. Not hating but this will waste a lot of users time and perhaps property as well. My suggestion is to practice and do your own research never relying on just one (or two) opinion [esp online]. Good luck.