It’s super cool to know how to get this good of image quality. Replacing the capacitor especially helps, cause I always notice the repeating patterns. Once a mod is available for the first revision though, that’ll be even better since you won’t have to compromise on the games that have problems on the 1CHIP, no matter how small that list might be.
It's funny how this episode is basically the last 3 months of my SNES' Life for me. My SNES Jr. was the one that Voultar discovered the C11 fix with in the mega-thread about it on Shmups. What a ride this has been. I'm really glad he found a fix and, even better, he actually hand-tuned all color channels for me and will be shipping the SNES back soon with as accurate an image as possible via analog. I'm looking forward to testing the Super nt in February against this super beast SNES. Thanks to MLig, Voultar, and RetroRGB for all your info & help in this rocky transition.
Good stuff GigaBoots. I just installed Voultar's THS7374 RGB bypass board in my recently acquired brand new mini/jr 1chip, and to my dismay it has the same problem described in the forum thread. The wobble on the left side of the screen and the ghosting are pretty bad. I'd bet the issue is a bit more widespread than they think.
I've seen alot of youtube vids in my life, gaming related and otherwise, and I gotta say, you guys make some of the best videos out there! Keep up the great work :)
after hd retrovisions new products come out, i really would love to see an updated video on them. those 2 work their fingers to the bone designing the best products for our retro systems.
Videos and knowledge like this often amazes me. As an industrial smith you can hand me a hammer and an anglegrinder, and I'll build ya almost whatever you want, but when it comes to circuitboards, chips, programming and audio/video signals I have no idea how it works! As always, thank you *so* much for making these videos! I learn so much from them!
Oh and i forgot: ALWAYS add resistors(+a cap) when going the RGB route, add it to the sync line...i think its 470 ohms and an added 220uF cap for terminal connections
Really not going to spend time soldering anytime soon and will just stick with the basic RGB output on mine, but this is FANTASTIC info to have out there and come back to. Thanks!!
Another fantastic video gentlemen. I do want to add that a board based on the 7314 or 7316 can still give the same level of quality as the 7374. It's all in the board design and proper attenuation.
A quick way to distinguish a old version SNES and write that off in the search for a 1 chip is the "eject" on the eject button will be printed in white lettering..this is a old version snes...so if you see this you can pretty much put it to the side that its not a 1chip.
My SNES Mini has that very same ghosting problem -- I actually have the capacitor in question to perform the fix, but have been slacking hard due to playing Final Fantasy III so much instead of modding the thing, lol. I have to pass on my thanks to Voultar, Borti, and others who continue to research and develop all of these fixes to this beloved system.
Hey I recognize a lot of that comparison work with Mega Man X ;-) It was discovered unfortunately that some games show a glitch much more obviously with the C11 fix. Specifically some Capcom games (especially the Street Fighter series) will show darkened rows of pixels at the top of the screen. The higher the cap rating, the worse the glitch becomes. It should be noted that this glitch even shows up with the stock capacitor, so it's not the fault of the fix, but more just another in the list of issues with the 1CHIP compatibility of the SNES library. Also I want to point out that you can sometimes get lucky with the 1CHIP series and get beautifully sharp graphics WITHOUT a bypass board, but this is pure chance. My mini is modded with Voultar's board, but my SNES 1CHIP-03 is stock (though I added 750 Ohm resistors on the RGB lines myself to bring the brightness down to spec). I also restored the csync on my 1CHIP-03 using Console5's kit. This is an important PSA: previous methods of restoring csync on the 1CHIP-03 was to use a jumper wire soldered on the board. This is now considered bad practice, because the caps and resistors needed to ensure the csync line is in spec are missing. It requires SMD soldering skill, so have a modder do it you're not experienced with soldering. Lastly, ALL SNES consoles can be modded with digital sound output, which delivers crystal clear audio to compatible receivers and amps. Thankfully most amps are, as is my Sony amp. I also found a cheap USB digital audio box that lets me feed the SNES digital audio directly into my computer's sound recording program, making for perfect digital sound when recording gameplay footage, or just ripping my favorite SNES soundtracks.
I've had problems with digital output from game consoles before where, during silence, the output was not just zeroes, but completely unclocked. There is always a slight delay in starting up an external DAC when sound comes back in, because the digital audio receiver chip has to synch up to the new audio clock. This leads to just a bit of missing audio at the very start. This was particularly bad on the PS2 in games where there would be something like footsteps with no BG music. Every foot step would require the receiver to recover the stream anew, and you might not even hear the "step" because it was barely longer than the resynch time. (My receiver's display would constantly be scrolling "PCM 44kHz" as it reacquired the signal every 600ms or so.) This may not be an issue with the SNES, because it had a fixed clock, whereas the PS2 can be set for a few different sample rates. In that case, it might always be running whether there's audio or not. If so, then great! Point being, it's worth testing before going to the trouble of modding, and sometimes it's just better to stick with analog.
@ Unmaker, Sure no problem. Please note that your software recorder must be set to the same sample rate as the USB box, then you change the "playback rate" of the recording to 32Khz to correct the speed of the recording. Do not confuse "playback rate" with "sample rate" though. The USB box can be set to 44.1Khz or 48Khz. I just set mine to 48Khz, record the audio, and then change the playback rate to 32Khz. If you try playing the recording at the original 48Khz, it will sound really sped up. Anyway, here's the link to the one I use: www.amazon.com/VAlinks-External-Surround-Recording-Compatible/dp/B013256ODG
Damn guys I was hoping your collab with DF Retro would cause your sub count to explode. Your videos are incredible and need to be seen by more people. Anyway, great vid as always!
Thanks for updating the RGB2 series here and there, sometimes I wonder if any of the RGB2 series are out of date in some aspect. Maybe there should be a link to this video at the end of the RGB2 SNES video.
Thank you VERY much. (DK claps in the air for yall) This is helping me make a decision on what modded SNES to buy on ebay. I only play my original SNES & DKC at Christmas. I need a replacement to play on original 32inch CRT while it still works.
You guys really need to make a video on the third console that makes up the golden age of 16-Bit gaming: Turbografx 16 / PC Engine! I have mine RGB modded, but would like to see all the RGB options that I may have missed. I can't be the only one who wants see this. Thanks for all the uploads BTW!
I've found that a computer CRT makes for the most enjoyable Wii experience. With a transcoder or super fast scaler, you get a razor sharp 480p image with the vibrant CRT look.
I second this. I currently have my Wii hooked up to a 19" Samsung LCD via component. I would like not just the best settings for playing Gamecube/Wii games but emulators running via Homebrew also.
I just installed Voultar's board into a SNES mini for a friend, and it looks great! Still waiting on the fix for smearing on my 3 chip SNES however. Already lifted PPU2 pin 3 to clear up the grid pattern across the screen, just need a fix for smearing...
Hold on, guys. Let's not confuse electrolytic capacitors with capacitors in general. It's a safe bet that electrolytic caps, especially the cheap crappy ones often used in old game consoles, will dry up, leak, or otherwise die eventually. However, ceramic caps, which most SMD packages are, generally don't fail or drift out of spec unless they're damaged by something like a voltage spike or excessive heat. I wouldn't be surprised if C11 on the 1Chip SNES was badly-speced from the factory, and that ghosting issue was there from the start.
Buy the official component cables with the brake out box. Looks the best. Its that simple I personally tested almost every cable and the official ones are much like a GameCube its just the best way to do it.
where I live the original cables simply don't exist, nobody even knew that the xbox had component cables until I began soldering them in my little workshop, I just want to know if there is another way but the originals since those are not an option to me
Alanna Lopez where do you live? As far as I know the xbox isn't really country specific for video out puts. Like a cube only having rgb in Europe. But I could be wrong. Those games are gonna be just as rare as the cube ones soon.
I'm from Mexico, I've searched in every single retro store in two cities, the local online markets and in the whole country, there's just no way to find them, they're completely non existant, The only choice I'd have is to buy them from E-bay, go through the pain that is customs and pay 3 times the price of the cable in shipping... that being the case I think I'll stick to soldering component cables
Alanna Lopez yea basically you just solder the 360 component cable to the og xbox a/v cable correct? But since your in mexico your xbox is the same as the USA and canada. So if you ever find one In mexico it would work.
I'm as much of a purist as they come and even I have to laugh at some of the purists whom consider the 1-chip a clone console. That's just reaching! LOL! Great video, as always!
One day I decided to order a snes mini rgb mod off ebay. I ended up going to sleep then went to work then came back to make a order and the super nt was announced. true story. I rather a new system that is better in most cases then a old dieing system.
I'm getting a lot of motion blur when connecting my SNES to my 4K tv via framemeister. The TV is on "Game mode" and the motion smoothing feature is off. What could be causing that?
SNES RGB may look better than S-Video at a first glance but after awhile you will notice that the S Video coming out of the SNES is not as bright, is sharper and the colors look right. For right now im convinced that what ever set up you use. That the S-Video signal on a SNES is better than the RGB signal. So by default everyone says that the RGB signal is better than S-Video which is true for most retro consoles but not for the Super Nintendo and I might say that the Super Nintendo has a very good stock S-Video signal. My favorite SNES game Super Castlevania IV doesn't look good in RGB in my opinion (original or 1chip snes) but looks good in S-Video on original hardware and a 1 chip. With that being said the best way to play SNES in my opinon for the best video on stock is S-Video.
This is kind of outside the scope of a video on image quality, but what are your thoughts on the SuperCIC? Pulling the security tabs out might work for playing Japanese games on an NTSC console, but if you want to play PAL games the SuperCIC is the way to go. I had my PAL SNES fitted with one, and it works with every US and Japanese game I've thrown at it. Of course, the US games require an adapter. The modification also lets you change the output from 50Hz to 60Hz or Auto, which detects whether the game is PAL or NTSC and sets the output accordingly.
Canada-only for the moment. I want to get domestic shipments running smoothly before I ship anything internationally. I'm hoping to look into it in the near future in order to help Voultar spread his warez all over the planet.
@My Life In Gaming "The outside of the system doesn't give any tell tale signs" It can help though ... there is a page on retroRGB about this. Assuming you are not being conned the serial numbers can tell you if the inside components should be a 1chip. The probability of a UN31.... barcode being a 1Chip unless the insides have been gutted is extremely high. This is how I have managed to find them.
It's a (deceptive) function of the way humans perceive. We often find brighter images to be more appealing at first glace, just as we are often deceived into thinking higher volumes of music sound better.
[Try4ce] There is a reason that TVs in stores use "vivid" picture settings, when in reality that's not what you should use at home if you want to preserve detail and accuracy.
Cool thats theres still more mod development but I'll stick with my 1chip unmodded with pvm and scart cables. The image is basically perfect in my mind
There are cosmetic differences between a launch SNES and a 1Chip SNES. Look at the eject button. If the word “eject” is painted on it, it’s a launch SNES. If it’s embossed in the plastic, it’s probably a 1Chip. Also, later SNES consoles had a sticker under the power button.
thank you very much for the video I have a question, that liquid that you use to clean before welding what kind of liquid it is, by chance is isopropyl alcohol.
Man to buy an Anologue super NT or try to snake an SNES off ebay for cheap and RGB Mod :) Just looking for the best SNES experience... This was and is my fav console to date.
I love the video quality of the SNES Mini and the older 1CHIP SNES revisions, but the fact that they slow down Super FX games is a deal breaker for me. So I've instead settled for my SNES that has an SNS-CPU-GPM-02 motherboard. Its S-ENC video encoder outputs a softer, decent look on RGB to component. I don't mind it at all, I actually prefer it.
Great video i am happy with my PAL Super Nintendo with the 1 Chip and Super CIC installed. I actually seen a great increase in Video quality which Sync on Luma cables from RetroGamingCables over my standard RGB cabling the capacitor issue worries me though i guess when one leaks i just clean up the mess and soldier the equivalent replacement in right?
Wonder if its at all possible to improve the audio sampling of the snes console....all these mods focus on video and not one has focused on one of the snes weakest aspect, the sample quality of its audio chip
+My Life in Gaming Apart from the vertical line, will this THS7374 (w/ low pass filter disabled) eliminate all that ugly "noise" that can easily be seen in the FFVI intro? (The "noise" I'm referring to is even more noticeable when watching that intro with the lights out.)
Would it be possible to do an episode on high refresh & variable refresh (Gsync, freesync) monitors with emulated retro gaming? I think retroarch is the only way too fully take advantage of their features but variable refresh is the only way I know of for playing PAL, NTSC, 70hz PC and weird refresh arcade games on the same display without reclocking.
I dont seem to suffer from the too bright 1Chip video issue. I have a 1Chip-01 Super famicom with a CSync RGB cable from retrogamingcables.co.uk and the brightness is the same as using a S-Video cable. anyone else notice this?
Every week I learn that everything I own is inferior. Great video!
AJmon I bought this RGB Bypass chip by Voultar then I learned it’s already OBSOLETE.
People are making TRIPLE Bypass chips now.
@@magacop5180 link pretty please :D
“While the brighter image may look more appealing at first glance, it is objectively incorrect”, hahahah! I love it!
These guys are poets! 8-)
I don't understand half of what you talk about but your videos make me happy. Thanks, guys!
Are you guys still doing that crt calibration video? I recently got a Trinitron and it has some geometry issues
just get the electronic screwdriver setting for sony tvs
Guys, upvote the CRAP out of this.
that and i have in the upper left corner some red coming through around white text on my trinitron
tf2cheats i
Rat many times u can fix normal Trinitrons tvs or some Pvm geometric in the service menu
You guys really know your stuff. Love watching these videos and hearing all this detailed information.
It’s super cool to know how to get this good of image quality. Replacing the capacitor especially helps, cause I always notice the repeating patterns. Once a mod is available for the first revision though, that’ll be even better since you won’t have to compromise on the games that have problems on the 1CHIP, no matter how small that list might be.
Have you done it yet? If not, have any info that'll help doing that?
It's funny how this episode is basically the last 3 months of my SNES' Life for me.
My SNES Jr. was the one that Voultar discovered the C11 fix with in the mega-thread about it on Shmups. What a ride this has been. I'm really glad he found a fix and, even better, he actually hand-tuned all color channels for me and will be shipping the SNES back soon with as accurate an image as possible via analog.
I'm looking forward to testing the Super nt in February against this super beast SNES. Thanks to MLig, Voultar, and RetroRGB for all your info & help in this rocky transition.
Okay.
Good stuff GigaBoots. I just installed Voultar's THS7374 RGB bypass board in my recently acquired brand new mini/jr 1chip, and to my dismay it has the same problem described in the forum thread. The wobble on the left side of the screen and the ghosting are pretty bad. I'd bet the issue is a bit more widespread than they think.
Using voultar's mod on a mini and it's glorious. I really couldn't be happier.
Another great video, thanks!
I've seen alot of youtube vids in my life, gaming related and otherwise, and I gotta say, you guys make some of the best videos out there! Keep up the great work :)
after hd retrovisions new products come out, i really would love to see an updated video on them. those 2 work their fingers to the bone designing the best products for our retro systems.
Next up, try to identify the best mods for "2 CHIP" consoles :)
This is actually where the real challenge is.
That's a great topic for a video actually
Lift pin 3 on PPU2. No fix for smearing yet, but that should clear up the grid pattern for now.
@@bahamutbbob Where did you get that info from?
I'm currently trying to install a chip on my computer to give you more than one 1 like.
Matthew Shezmen This deserves to be pinned.
Videos and knowledge like this often amazes me.
As an industrial smith you can hand me a hammer and an anglegrinder, and I'll build ya almost whatever you want, but when it comes to circuitboards, chips, programming and audio/video signals I have no idea how it works!
As always, thank you *so* much for making these videos! I learn so much from them!
This channel creates such great and well produced videos, it's a bummer it only has 83K subscribers and 40K views. Spread the word people!
Oh and i forgot: ALWAYS add resistors(+a cap) when going the RGB route, add it to the sync line...i think its 470 ohms and an added 220uF cap for terminal connections
I have a SNES 1 chip-02 and using a quality scart RGB from retro cables, and it’s the best I have ever had out of the Nintendo.
Great video as always. I hate when I hear that ending music because the video is always over too soon.
Really not going to spend time soldering anytime soon and will just stick with the basic RGB output on mine, but this is FANTASTIC info to have out there and come back to. Thanks!!
Another fantastic video gentlemen. I do want to add that a board based on the 7314 or 7316 can still give the same level of quality as the 7374. It's all in the board design and proper attenuation.
I need to get myself a 1-chip SNES... (I have an original) I have that component Retroversion cables, so the brightness won't be an issue with it.
@My life in gaming Thank you for this video! It is exactly what I was searching for.
A quick way to distinguish a old version SNES and write that off in the search for a 1 chip is the "eject" on the eject button will be printed in white lettering..this is a old version snes...so if you see this you can pretty much put it to the side that its not a 1chip.
Currently on the look for an RGB SNES and this video helped me a ton!
Great video as always.
Hey, Lufia. Always nice to see that series acknowledged, even if it is just background video.
What’s that? A new RGB episode? Class is in session!
My SNES Mini has that very same ghosting problem -- I actually have the capacitor in question to perform the fix, but have been slacking hard due to playing Final Fantasy III so much instead of modding the thing, lol.
I have to pass on my thanks to Voultar, Borti, and others who continue to research and develop all of these fixes to this beloved system.
You're doing the lord's work.
lord vader
Hey I recognize a lot of that comparison work with Mega Man X ;-) It was discovered unfortunately that some games show a glitch much more obviously with the C11 fix. Specifically some Capcom games (especially the Street Fighter series) will show darkened rows of pixels at the top of the screen. The higher the cap rating, the worse the glitch becomes. It should be noted that this glitch even shows up with the stock capacitor, so it's not the fault of the fix, but more just another in the list of issues with the 1CHIP compatibility of the SNES library. Also I want to point out that you can sometimes get lucky with the 1CHIP series and get beautifully sharp graphics WITHOUT a bypass board, but this is pure chance. My mini is modded with Voultar's board, but my SNES 1CHIP-03 is stock (though I added 750 Ohm resistors on the RGB lines myself to bring the brightness down to spec). I also restored the csync on my 1CHIP-03 using Console5's kit. This is an important PSA: previous methods of restoring csync on the 1CHIP-03 was to use a jumper wire soldered on the board. This is now considered bad practice, because the caps and resistors needed to ensure the csync line is in spec are missing. It requires SMD soldering skill, so have a modder do it you're not experienced with soldering. Lastly, ALL SNES consoles can be modded with digital sound output, which delivers crystal clear audio to compatible receivers and amps. Thankfully most amps are, as is my Sony amp. I also found a cheap USB digital audio box that lets me feed the SNES digital audio directly into my computer's sound recording program, making for perfect digital sound when recording gameplay footage, or just ripping my favorite SNES soundtracks.
I've had problems with digital output from game consoles before where, during silence, the output was not just zeroes, but completely unclocked. There is always a slight delay in starting up an external DAC when sound comes back in, because the digital audio receiver chip has to synch up to the new audio clock. This leads to just a bit of missing audio at the very start.
This was particularly bad on the PS2 in games where there would be something like footsteps with no BG music. Every foot step would require the receiver to recover the stream anew, and you might not even hear the "step" because it was barely longer than the resynch time. (My receiver's display would constantly be scrolling "PCM 44kHz" as it reacquired the signal every 600ms or so.)
This may not be an issue with the SNES, because it had a fixed clock, whereas the PS2 can be set for a few different sample rates. In that case, it might always be running whether there's audio or not. If so, then great!
Point being, it's worth testing before going to the trouble of modding, and sometimes it's just better to stick with analog.
Nick, thankfully the SNES is fixed. You miss like 1 second of audio when first powering on the game, but then it stays on after that.
@ Unmaker, Sure no problem. Please note that your software recorder must be set to the same sample rate as the USB box, then you change the "playback rate" of the recording to 32Khz to correct the speed of the recording. Do not confuse "playback rate" with "sample rate" though. The USB box can be set to 44.1Khz or 48Khz. I just set mine to 48Khz, record the audio, and then change the playback rate to 32Khz. If you try playing the recording at the original 48Khz, it will sound really sped up. Anyway, here's the link to the one I use:
www.amazon.com/VAlinks-External-Surround-Recording-Compatible/dp/B013256ODG
KarbuncleX How does it look without C11? If its just a filtercap it will work without it.
It's unwatchable with out it. Try to imagine bright white spaghetti running up and down the screen. That's what it looks like without the C11cap.
Hope you guys get an early edition of the Super NT
LegionsOfAnon dude me too that's why I'm not doing any of this mod stuff
LegionsOfAnon it comes out February right ?
Yes, February.
I just gotta get the funds and then me an the nt are gonna dim the lights and get it on ;D canmt wait!
Damn guys I was hoping your collab with DF Retro would cause your sub count to explode. Your videos are incredible and need to be seen by more people. Anyway, great vid as always!
Great video, keep up the great work and you have opened up my world to see different things within the video qualities.
I love these episodes! Keep up the good work!
you guys are hardcore man, id be happy even with RF , as long as the game is good!
Interesting info guys, enjoy the holidays! :-)
You guys are the best, thank you for all you do.
Been waiting for this
Amazing job guys, continue creating great content to the platform, 1UP for your!
I love the mini, the sleekness of the pal SNES and super famicom but with the superior color scheme
I actually like the softer image of the 2-chip. It makes the pixels look a bit less harsh.
Quick Reference:
7:12 Use a THS7374 RGB Bypass. (Better than THS7316 & 14)
10:16 Replace the C11 capacitor.
Thanks for the guide! Looking forward to trying this myself soon.
Thanks for updating the RGB2 series here and there, sometimes I wonder if any of the RGB2 series are out of date in some aspect. Maybe there should be a link to this video at the end of the RGB2 SNES video.
Thank you VERY much. (DK claps in the air for yall)
This is helping me make a decision on what modded SNES to buy on ebay.
I only play my original SNES & DKC at Christmas.
I need a replacement to play on original 32inch CRT while it still works.
Another great video guys! Keep up the awesome work.
damn, love it when my phone tells me a new is up. You guys are great
You guys really need to make a video on the third console that makes up the golden age of 16-Bit gaming: Turbografx 16 / PC Engine! I have mine RGB modded, but would like to see all the RGB options that I may have missed. I can't be the only one who wants see this. Thanks for all the uploads BTW!
[Try4ce] Oh of course. It is something we would like to get to sooner than later if we can pull it all together. Won't be easy, but it will happen!
My Life in Gaming Great! Look forward to it!
Fantastic video as always!
the quality is everything....the quality is life
I'm not interested in any Nintendo console, but when you guys upload a video you know it's going to be good. I really enjoyed it!
Erik2Ammo
What a weird phobia you have
Amazing work, as always. You guys are awesome.
Are you guys getting the Super NT?
I was going to ask just this.
Only if a proper 240p RGB/Component version comes out in the future. HDMI is nice, but I game on a CRT proper.
[Try4ce] You can absolutely count on there being a Super Nt video.
its a snes made my kevtris. what more needs to be said... buy it!
My Life in Gaming great, can’t wait!
Please do getting the best picture out of your Wii. I'm so confused if I should use an LCD or CRT
I've found that a computer CRT makes for the most enjoyable Wii experience. With a transcoder or super fast scaler, you get a razor sharp 480p image with the vibrant CRT look.
Speedy Very good advice. I’ll definitely try this for Wii & GC games!
I second this. I currently have my Wii hooked up to a 19" Samsung LCD via component. I would like not just the best settings for playing Gamecube/Wii games but emulators running via Homebrew also.
I just installed Voultar's board into a SNES mini for a friend, and it looks great! Still waiting on the fix for smearing on my 3 chip SNES however. Already lifted PPU2 pin 3 to clear up the grid pattern across the screen, just need a fix for smearing...
1chip consoles serial number starts with UN3 but sometimes people swap boards when fixing or restoring.
Just when I thought I was all set with my modded SNES Minis Voultar has to find a way to take more of my money...
Hold on, guys. Let's not confuse electrolytic capacitors with capacitors in general. It's a safe bet that electrolytic caps, especially the cheap crappy ones often used in old game consoles, will dry up, leak, or otherwise die eventually. However, ceramic caps, which most SMD packages are, generally don't fail or drift out of spec unless they're damaged by something like a voltage spike or excessive heat. I wouldn't be surprised if C11 on the 1Chip SNES was badly-speced from the factory, and that ghosting issue was there from the start.
Well done video guys. Thank you for this great info!
Ooooo my god I love the intro beat !!!!!!
Brilliant video thanks & you have a new subscriber.
The original Xbox episode continues to elude me
Buy the official component cables with the brake out box. Looks the best. Its that simple I personally tested almost every cable and the official ones are much like a GameCube its just the best way to do it.
where I live the original cables simply don't exist, nobody even knew that the xbox had component cables until I began soldering them in my little workshop, I just want to know if there is another way but the originals since those are not an option to me
Alanna Lopez where do you live? As far as I know the xbox isn't really country specific for video out puts.
Like a cube only having rgb in Europe.
But I could be wrong. Those games are gonna be just as rare as the cube ones soon.
I'm from Mexico, I've searched in every single retro store in two cities, the local online markets and in the whole country, there's just no way to find them, they're completely non existant, The only choice I'd have is to buy them from E-bay, go through the pain that is customs and pay 3 times the price of the cable in shipping... that being the case I think I'll stick to soldering component cables
Alanna Lopez yea basically you just solder the 360 component cable to the og xbox a/v cable correct?
But since your in mexico your xbox is the same as the USA and canada. So if you ever find one In mexico it would work.
Man, I really wish there was an easier way to tell a 1-chip apart from the earlier models.
I'm as much of a purist as they come and even I have to laugh at some of the purists whom consider the 1-chip a clone console. That's just reaching! LOL! Great video, as always!
Hehe... Made by nintendo. Not a clone. 🙂
1chip was Nintendo really finessing their hardware in the end. Although, I have 2 SNESes a 1chip and an APU model just in case incompatibility issues.
One day I decided to order a snes mini rgb mod off ebay. I ended up going to sleep then went to work then came back to make a order and the super nt was announced. true story.
I rather a new system that is better in most cases then a old dieing system.
I'm getting a lot of motion blur when connecting my SNES to my 4K tv via framemeister.
The TV is on "Game mode" and the motion smoothing feature is off.
What could be causing that?
SNES RGB may look better than S-Video at a first glance but after awhile you will notice that the S Video coming out of the SNES is not as bright, is sharper and the colors look right. For right now im convinced that what ever set up you use. That the S-Video signal on a SNES is better than the RGB signal. So by default everyone says that the RGB signal is better than S-Video which is true for most retro consoles but not for the Super Nintendo and I might say that the Super Nintendo has a very good stock S-Video signal.
My favorite SNES game Super Castlevania IV doesn't look good in RGB in my opinion (original or 1chip snes) but looks good in S-Video on original hardware and a 1 chip.
With that being said the best way to play SNES in my opinon for the best video on stock is S-Video.
Kirby Super Star is superb. Fave game on system.
And your profile picture is Kirby.
I have a one chip-01 but unfortunately never see it compared to the other 2 or the mini
God i love darius twins music!
This is kind of outside the scope of a video on image quality, but what are your thoughts on the SuperCIC? Pulling the security tabs out might work for playing Japanese games on an NTSC console, but if you want to play PAL games the SuperCIC is the way to go. I had my PAL SNES fitted with one, and it works with every US and Japanese game I've thrown at it. Of course, the US games require an adapter. The modification also lets you change the output from 50Hz to 60Hz or Auto, which detects whether the game is PAL or NTSC and sets the output accordingly.
If you want to play Turrican, play T1 and T2 on the Amiga and T3 on the MegaDrive
There are tell tail signs for 1chips the eject button will be all gray I heard a difference when opening the expansion bay n obviously the vin number
I wish Voultar shipped to Canada D':
He does now! I just launched my Canadian store, and I'm an official distributor for Voultar's goods: retrostuff.ca/
I know someone who will be shipping to Canada, very soon.. :)
Voultar :D
Canada-only for the moment. I want to get domestic shipments running smoothly before I ship anything internationally. I'm hoping to look into it in the near future in order to help Voultar spread his warez all over the planet.
@My Life In Gaming "The outside of the system doesn't give any tell tale signs" It can help though ... there is a page on retroRGB about this. Assuming you are not being conned the serial numbers can tell you if the inside components should be a 1chip. The probability of a UN31.... barcode being a 1Chip unless the insides have been gutted is extremely high. This is how I have managed to find them.
[Try4ce] Yes, but you still can't be sure. I grabbed a $8 SNES that I thought had a good chance of being a 1CHIP, but alas, it was not.
yeah Voultar is the man,
Now this, is a cool idea!
Seriously why don't you guys have 100,000 subs?! That's ridiculous!
People watch and forget to subscribe because youtube just keeps suggesting the videos anyway. (I just noticed I am guilty of this)
Shyt, that slightly brighter image looked pretty good to me.
It's a (deceptive) function of the way humans perceive. We often find brighter images to be more appealing at first glace, just as we are often deceived into thinking higher volumes of music sound better.
Not really, there is a such thing as TOO bright and TOO loud, Some of us like it until it starts affecting detail more than very slightly :P
Yes, there's a point where it becomes obvious that it's out of range. My statement about human perception isn't wrong though.
Nick Mueller And that point of being too much is different for everyone due to preference.
[Try4ce] There is a reason that TVs in stores use "vivid" picture settings, when in reality that's not what you should use at home if you want to preserve detail and accuracy.
here, where I live, we call this tiny SNES an "SNES BABY" or an "SNES SLIM"
[Try4ce] Heh, it doesn't have an official name (except in Japan where it is officially the Super Famicom Junior), so I guess those work too!
Yarrr.... It is still an official super nintendo. A slimmed down version, yet a real snes after all.
Some of the colours are really dulled by the LPF on the SNESRGB board. Is there a better solution to correct oversaturation in 2024?
What was the game with the flying angel dude? Interesting video thanks
Cool thats theres still more mod development but I'll stick with my 1chip unmodded with pvm and scart cables. The image is basically perfect in my mind
There are cosmetic differences between a launch SNES and a 1Chip SNES. Look at the eject button. If the word “eject” is painted on it, it’s a launch SNES. If it’s embossed in the plastic, it’s probably a 1Chip. Also, later SNES consoles had a sticker under the power button.
[Try4ce] Yes this is true, but not at all 100% marker of 1CHIP. The embossed Eject buttons and stickers can absolutely be on non-1CHIP consoles.
thank you very much for the video I have a question, that liquid that you use to clean before welding what kind of liquid it is, by chance is isopropyl alcohol.
Man to buy an Anologue super NT or try to snake an SNES off ebay for cheap and RGB Mod :) Just looking for the best SNES experience... This was and is my fav console to date.
I love the video quality of the SNES Mini and the older 1CHIP SNES revisions, but the fact that they slow down Super FX games is a deal breaker for me. So I've instead settled for my SNES that has an SNS-CPU-GPM-02 motherboard. Its S-ENC video encoder outputs a softer, decent look on RGB to component. I don't mind it at all, I actually prefer it.
How come all comparison screenshots are aliased?
Ay terranigma. I love you
We need a Dreamcast episode
I had that ghosting issue on my 1st gen SNES, when it was new.
Great video i am happy with my PAL Super Nintendo with the 1 Chip and Super CIC installed.
I actually seen a great increase in Video quality which Sync on Luma cables from RetroGamingCables over my standard RGB cabling the capacitor issue worries me though i guess when one leaks i just clean up the mess and soldier the equivalent replacement in right?
How did you capture RF at 2:18?
Is there a list of games featured in this video?
Wonder if its at all possible to improve the audio sampling of the snes console....all these mods focus on video and not one has focused on one of the snes weakest aspect, the sample quality of its audio chip
It's incredible how dedicated you and the people of retro gaming are despite the days of emulation
+My Life in Gaming
Apart from the vertical line, will this THS7374 (w/ low pass filter disabled) eliminate all that ugly "noise" that can easily be seen in the FFVI intro?
(The "noise" I'm referring to is even more noticeable when watching that intro with the lights out.)
When you guys show shots of games like Act Raiser 2, is that from an emulator or the actual console itself? Oh and what do you use to record it?
Would it be possible to do an episode on high refresh & variable refresh (Gsync, freesync) monitors with emulated retro gaming? I think retroarch is the only way too fully take advantage of their features but variable refresh is the only way I know of for playing PAL, NTSC, 70hz PC and weird refresh arcade games on the same display without reclocking.
What's the best/easiest INTEGRATED method of fixing brightness on THS7374? Or another chip that does 'best quality' with better brightness?
Would we say if we are not going to do modding, the two chip is a better over the one chip then?
I dont seem to suffer from the too bright 1Chip video issue. I have a 1Chip-01 Super famicom with a CSync RGB cable from retrogamingcables.co.uk and the brightness is the same as using a S-Video cable. anyone else notice this?
Great update!