Even putting the spring into the slot, I was STILL not satisfied with the amount of force of the eject button popping back up, but I found a very simple solution to this issue which plagues us all.... simply install a motor to the eject button! The motor I use is from a 1986 Ford Thunderbird (with turbo) and of course must rest on a platform externally from the SNES and requires gas, but an engine from a 1992 Ferrari 250 GTO can be used as well . It must also be started and running BEFORE you eject that SNES cart! A shaft about 3 inches in diameter can be made to go through the side of your SNES and attach to the eject button. If you wired everything up correctly, when you press down on the EJECT button to remove that cartridge, it engages the clutch on the engine transmission. When you let go, it's the same as releasing the clutch pedal while driving, the engine revs in its first gear and the eject button pops back up with a force that's FINALLY good enough for us SNES gamers.
Thanks for putting in the time to finding a solution to the ghosting issues. You make the knowledge of electronics look like a skill every time you make a video.
I love your attitude towards the soldering you do. Each time you solder something you say "perfect". Its not always the cleanest, its not always the straightest but it doesn't need to be. Is the soldered item firmly attached? Yes. Is it where it should be? Yes. Is there continuity? Yes Is it shorting with anything? No Then it's as perfect as it needs to be. Its great for people like me who don't get things perfectly straight, solder points look untidy but it does the job.
I just realized that you sound very similar to Mr. Carlson's Lab at times. Now I can't stop picturing him working on a game console, and you messing with vacuum tube stuff. Both of you seem to take pride in your work too. That's becoming a rare attribute these days.
Just so I am getting it right, as well as everyone else who might missed it, correct me if I am wrong. You want a Capacitor with the values between 200 nF and 470 nF, with the 300s being the sweet spot. 0805 sized package for older One Chip and 0603 for the Mini .
You did a pretty good job bro. Congrats! But I think you should consider for shipping it to other countries. I'm living in Brazil and here there's no mods available like that for my SNES. See ya!
Pardon my noob question, but how do you connect the SNES and to what type of display do you connect it once you have done an RGB mod? I understand that SCART cables are a thing that can transmit the RGB signal, but what do you hook those up to in order to get an image out?
Short answer: In North America use HDretrovision component cables. Long answer: You could use something like the ossc or framemister to connect to your TV via hdmi. You could get a scart to bnc adapter then hook up to either a PVM or BVM. You could also import a TV from the UK with scart inputs. Japan also had TV's with rgb inputs but they are not scart. It's either jp21 or the Sony multi a/v port. There are adapter available for both.
Thank you for this install Mr. Voultar, much appreciated. This video confirms my speculation that the FC twin has this same issue while using a HDMI upscaler. The composite to HDMI device rocks while using it with the Sega Saturn but the FC twin there's a noticeable vertical line much like what you described in this video. Needs a cap easy enough but would you happen to have a FC twin laying around for modding because I would much rather use the newer console vs my original top loader. The top loader needs a conversion card for the game genie (mail order) adaptor that I will never be able to afford. Just curious but excellent informative 1CHIP install SNES fans rejoice.
@voultar I'm so lost between old and more current information With this RGB board, do I need an RGB cable like the Retrovision HD cable? Or will a more genaric cable like an N64 RGB cable work?
First off, bravo you sir are an artist. Second you’re the fucking man you remind me of the painter with the fro how you masterfully go through your work calm and on point. You had me dying with the “ you don’t need the big expensive cutters if you don’t have them” then you bust out with the most ghetto ingenious shit I ever heard and done myself with the no fucks given “ you can use a cheap ass nail cutter”!! 😂😂👌 “set you back about a buck fifty at your local pharmacy.” That was some real shit right there and your demeanor was so perfect. You are the freaking man! I bow to you sir. And last by no means the least that soundtrack doe!! I wish you the very best man. I sub and liked your vid bravo bravo!
Regarding replacing C11 with a 200-470nf cap, is there any benefit to the going one way or the other within that range? Is it possible you might still experience ghosting with 200nf and going to a higher value would work better for example? Nice video. You make it look so easy that even I feel like I'd be comfortable doing this
I bought a 20$ solder kit off Amazon and have successfully modded all my consoles and fixed all kinds of electronics I'm an absolute beginner but it's really not that hard you should definitely give it a shot.
I started out with a cheap 30 dollar amazon soldering iron and used a couple busted hard drive boards and transferred parts back and forth until I got comfortable with the process and my technique. Then I moved onto actually repairing something very easy and worked my way up to more difficult jobs. Practice, practice, practice...
Hey Voultar, have you ever explored audio mods on retro consoles like adding TOSLINK to an SNES or Saturn or a more modern amplifier boards such as the Mega AMP? Not sure if audio is your thing but I was curious if these types of mods were worth the effort.
Hey Voultar I have a 01 board but my setup looks nothing like what you have in the video here, I can’t seem to locate the area the pcb goes and the one area I think it goes none of the little resistors are configured the same way
Hello, I have a 1chip outputting very low audio from the dac converter that goes low all the way to the rf and composite, caps measure all good, voltages are ok, my local tech says he's never seen such problem, do you have any idea what could be causing this(tested on different tvs various cables and jumpered everything tried all possible fixes with jumpers)
Hey, I just installed your board exactly like you did in this video for a 1-Chip 03. When I put it on the screen, it acts like the Csync is all messed up (screen freaks out diagonally but displays proper color and sound) Does that mean I need to get a new cable that bypasses Csync? Or should I remove the Csync capacitor and wire in the fourth wire to CS on the mod chip? Edit: If anyone else has this problem with their 1 Chip-03, go to retrorgb.com/snes1chip7374.html. I ended up using a jumper wire from R9 to the CS on the amp board. The 1 Chip-03 doesn't even have the hardware for native CSYNC so all you have to do is connect the wire to each board. Works perfectly.
Most main ghosting is from slow,pixels ms or not matched refresh to your tv.If you using led tvs.crt different but usly do not have problems unless its not syn.
Voultar, I have 4 sness and all of them seem to not be a onechip... any way to fix the vertical band on those? it really bothers me. Your videos are great!
@@ximonx I have a pretty elaborate ESD setup here in the lab. And nylon typically isn't a good candidate for ESD discharge. So no, I've never had a problem.
I just installed a dejitter board myself from Videogame perfection.com it was easy to install and worked great first shot so happy to have my SNES working perfect with my OSSC.
I just did the same as well. My Sony TV which wouldn't take any signal from my snes or av famicom can now display 5x scaled ossc from both. It's a great mod and would be cool if these two were combined
I have the SNS-CPU-RGB-02. It's a 3 chip board, but it uses the same S-RGB for its RBB encoder. Do you think I could use this mod (changing where I land my wires to fit my board) and get any benefits or do I need to look at a different board?
Great video Voultar I congratulate you I have a question how can I know if a normal SNES brings the 1CHIP without opening the console, in my city Tulsa, there is a retro store they sell consoles but they are not going to allow you to open the console to see if they are 1CHIP or they are not, there is another way to find out, I hope you can answer my question thank you very much.
Usually the Serial number at the bottom of the console with be a UN3..... it's not a guarantee necessarily but just know if it starts with a 1 or 2 it's most definitely not a 1 chip unless some weird swap has been done at some point which I'd think is super rare.
Hey, thanks for the amazing video! I'm planning on doing this to my 1chip03 super famicom. For the 1chip03 will I still need to reenable c-sync? Also is the brightness mod still necessary? Thank you very much :) Edit: Nevermind! Your blurb on the store page answered all my questions! :)
I'm looking at this as a mod for my 1CHIP, but the other guides I have read don't mention removing those SMD resistors. Why is it needed here? EDIT: Looks like the other guide I was looking at was for a SNES Mini/Jr, so there is no RGB encoder to take out of circuit, that's why.
Even putting the spring into the slot, I was STILL not satisfied with the amount of force of the eject button popping back up, but I found a very simple solution to this issue which plagues us all.... simply install a motor to the eject button! The motor I use is from a 1986 Ford Thunderbird (with turbo) and of course must rest on a platform externally from the SNES and requires gas, but an engine from a 1992 Ferrari 250 GTO can be used as well . It must also be started and running BEFORE you eject that SNES cart! A shaft about 3 inches in diameter can be made to go through the side of your SNES and attach to the eject button. If you wired everything up correctly, when you press down on the EJECT button to remove that cartridge, it engages the clutch on the engine transmission. When you let go, it's the same as releasing the clutch pedal while driving, the engine revs in its first gear and the eject button pops back up with a force that's FINALLY good enough for us SNES gamers.
.... Meet me at the hotel, tonight..
You said “shaft” 🤣
ahaha I didn't know Game Sack makes funny comments on other channels :D
I smell gasoline, is that normal?
good old 16-bitoline
Thanks for putting in the time to finding a solution to the ghosting issues. You make the knowledge of electronics look like a skill every time you make a video.
Clearly this is the most correct retro video game repair channel to watch.
Favorite line: "Keep pulling, Keep pulling, Keep pulling, we're almost there."
Drinking game: every time Voultar says “Sole-dur”, take a drink.
Voultar’s fortress of Soldur Dor
the metroid music 10/10
I'm always ready to go right after I watch a Voultar vid 😍
I love your attitude towards the soldering you do. Each time you solder something you say "perfect". Its not always the cleanest, its not always the straightest but it doesn't need to be.
Is the soldered item firmly attached? Yes.
Is it where it should be? Yes.
Is there continuity? Yes
Is it shorting with anything? No
Then it's as perfect as it needs to be. Its great for people like me who don't get things perfectly straight, solder points look untidy but it does the job.
>new Voultar video
7:58
"and pre-wet that tip"
Dude, you have no idea.
15:16 "So we'll start with the shaft. And you want to carefully insert the shaft into the hole." "Work it in there nicely"
A lot of shaft action as well.
watching other people mod console made me really appreciate your neatness and attention to sexiness
Loving the videos, my dude.
If the rev.1 snes can get a mod to upgrade the soft rgb we'll be in business
Dear Voultar, I enjoy your videos. Thank you.
I just realized that you sound very similar to Mr. Carlson's Lab at times. Now I can't stop picturing him working on a game console, and you messing with vacuum tube stuff. Both of you seem to take pride in your work too. That's becoming a rare attribute these days.
Good vid but more important great choice of music these are the best versions of super metroid songs I've heard
some of them sound like metroid prime, though I think prime borrowed alot of music from super
Woah! One of those few videos here on YT where someone can actually solder things!
Watching you work that shaft into that eject mechanism. God.
i love the metroid music man ..... thats one of my favorite games and the old soundtrack for that game was amazing
Bob Ross of electronics I swear “ just gonna flip this baby over because that’s where the magic happens “ mmmmhhhhmmmmmm
I always assumed the noise I was seeing on screen was generated by my shitty Magnavox tv.
I never find pre-modded SNESs on voultar.com... Someday I will catch one!
Awesome video as always dude!
Excellent, now I gotta get a chip and do it up! I haven't modded anything since my Dreamcast back in the day, I got the itch.
Always is a pleasure to learn from you ! Thank you ! Have a great day !
Just so I am getting it right, as well as everyone else who might missed it, correct me if I am wrong.
You want a Capacitor with the values between 200 nF and 470 nF, with the 300s being the sweet spot. 0805 sized package for older One Chip and 0603 for the Mini .
Always giving us a happy ending.
Deenergize system. At last I hear this words on youtube. Like&subscribe.
Brilliant relation to work. Thanx for video. Need more.
Love watching you wiggle your shaft to and fro.
Looks like cadmium plated steel, definitely not brass or copper.
Prewet that tip and work the shaft all the way. Yup.
I love see old electronics from old machines... its so *A E S T H E T H I C C*
You did a pretty good job bro. Congrats! But I think you should consider for shipping it to other countries. I'm living in Brazil and here there's no mods available like that for my SNES. See ya!
is the intro compressed to hell and back for anyone else?
duh, it's supposed to be retro.
Sure, but compare it to other Voltaur's other vids - It sounds really quite bad.
retro is 8bit, not compressed af
idk it looks fine on my 60 inch tv
The audio sounds like a bad Limewire MP3
Great improvement mod, i guess nintendo just used cheaper capacitators and rgb decoders in their snesses along with pior shielding to save costs.
At 100k subs Voultar should have a coming out party ;)
Shaft is just plated steel, no?
letsgetsteve Yes.
Shaft lolz 😂
The brass color is an anti-corrosion finish you'll see it on Hardware screws sometimes too
Its Aerospace grade Titanium
This is likely a thin film interference effect from the oxide layer formed during the tempering process.
Pardon my noob question, but how do you connect the SNES and to what type of display do you connect it once you have done an RGB mod? I understand that SCART cables are a thing that can transmit the RGB signal, but what do you hook those up to in order to get an image out?
Short answer: In North America use HDretrovision component cables.
Long answer: You could use something like the ossc or framemister to connect to your TV via hdmi.
You could get a scart to bnc adapter then hook up to either a PVM or BVM.
You could also import a TV from the UK with scart inputs.
Japan also had TV's with rgb inputs but they are not scart. It's either jp21 or the Sony multi a/v port. There are adapter available for both.
I think i played super metriod way too much when my mind keeps telling me where hidden items are based on what song is playing
Voultar is the Bob Ross from Technology
Holy Crap! Good job bro keep up the good work :)
Id like to see a video for NES RGB mod wiring. I try to replicate how clean you do your mods.
SNAKE!!! THE VAN ARE MOVING!!!!!!
I wish I knew a guy like you near me so that damn white line could be fixed on my snes.
i really don't know too much about electronics, but man i love watching these videos, makes me want to start learning electronics... any advices?
I'm now able to run crisis in Ludacris mode thanks alot bro
Is this compatible with the Japanese Super Famicom with 1chip?
I needed this!
Thank you for this install Mr. Voultar, much appreciated. This video confirms my speculation that the FC twin has this same issue while using a HDMI upscaler. The composite to HDMI device rocks while using it with the Sega Saturn but the FC twin there's a noticeable vertical line much like what you described in this video. Needs a cap easy enough but would you happen to have a FC twin laying around for modding because I would much rather use the newer console vs my original top loader. The top loader needs a conversion card for the game genie (mail order) adaptor that I will never be able to afford. Just curious but excellent informative 1CHIP install SNES fans rejoice.
@voultar I'm so lost between old and more current information
With this RGB board, do I need an RGB cable like the Retrovision HD cable? Or will a more genaric cable like an N64 RGB cable work?
First off, bravo you sir are an artist. Second you’re the fucking man you remind me of the painter with the fro how you masterfully go through your work calm and on point. You had me dying with the “ you don’t need the big expensive cutters if you don’t have them” then you bust out with the most ghetto ingenious shit I ever heard and done myself with the no fucks given “ you can use a cheap ass nail cutter”!! 😂😂👌 “set you back about a buck fifty at your local pharmacy.” That was some real shit right there and your demeanor was so perfect. You are the freaking man! I bow to you sir. And last by no means the least that soundtrack doe!! I wish you the very best man. I sub and liked your vid bravo bravo!
I swear, if Beavis and Buttthead watched this video, they would laugh themselves to death. All of the suggestive dialogue, it was quite impressive.
I love that you say soldering and not soddering. That alone is worth a like and a subscribe. The content is excellent too.
Regarding replacing C11 with a 200-470nf cap, is there any benefit to the going one way or the other within that range? Is it possible you might still experience ghosting with 200nf and going to a higher value would work better for example?
Nice video. You make it look so easy that even I feel like I'd be comfortable doing this
"I'm gonna put it in that slot..." "Perfect It's in the slot" ... I am just going to leave this here.
Guess I should start saving money for your chips man. Mailing it abroad costs a lot for my country. Anyway, great video as always, keep it up.
I am a bit curious why you don't make use of needle nosed tweezers more for manipulating your wire when soldering.
Nice foreboding music :D
Awesome video as usual! Can you do some basic soldering skills videos? Something we can practice before doing work on consoles.
I bought a 20$ solder kit off Amazon and have successfully modded all my consoles and fixed all kinds of electronics I'm an absolute beginner but it's really not that hard you should definitely give it a shot.
I started out with a cheap 30 dollar amazon soldering iron and used a couple busted hard drive boards and transferred parts back and forth until I got comfortable with the process and my technique. Then I moved onto actually repairing something very easy and worked my way up to more difficult jobs. Practice, practice, practice...
Hey Voultar, have you ever explored audio mods on retro consoles like adding TOSLINK to an SNES or Saturn or a more modern amplifier boards such as the Mega AMP? Not sure if audio is your thing but I was curious if these types of mods were worth the effort.
Toslink is definitely worth doing, but the board also does spdif and is worth doing as well.
Hey Voultar I have a 01 board but my setup looks nothing like what you have in the video here, I can’t seem to locate the area the pcb goes and the one area I think it goes none of the little resistors are configured the same way
Pre-wetting that tip!
JUST ANOTHER 1.27mm I love you
Double entendre overload! Straps... are... tearing... apart...
Voltar you are amazing
"Say shaft one more time!"
Awesome video! So where do you buy these parts at?
Hello, I have a 1chip outputting very low audio from the dac converter that goes low all the way to the rf and composite, caps measure all good, voltages are ok, my local tech says he's never seen such problem, do you have any idea what could be causing this(tested on different tvs various cables and jumpered everything tried all possible fixes with jumpers)
I assume this kit / capacitor fix will work just fine with a Japanese Super Famicom running on 100 V? Thanks!
You bet, it'll work just fine in a 1CHIP SFC.
Cool, thanks!
Hey, I just installed your board exactly like you did in this video for a 1-Chip 03. When I put it on the screen, it acts like the Csync is all messed up (screen freaks out diagonally but displays proper color and sound) Does that mean I need to get a new cable that bypasses Csync? Or should I remove the Csync capacitor and wire in the fourth wire to CS on the mod chip?
Edit:
If anyone else has this problem with their 1 Chip-03, go to retrorgb.com/snes1chip7374.html. I ended up using a jumper wire from R9 to the CS on the amp board. The 1 Chip-03 doesn't even have the hardware for native CSYNC so all you have to do is connect the wire to each board. Works perfectly.
your voice is calming, just like louise rossman's voice...
Don't delay buy today!
Where can we see some before/after pictures of some games with and without this mod?
The shaft on the eject lever is neither copper nor brass; copper is...copper colored, and brass is a bright gold color. That is alloy steel.
"If you shake it, and rotate it, while pulling it out... it'll come out like butter"
Great video, creepy music!!
Most main ghosting is from slow,pixels ms or not matched refresh to your tv.If you using led tvs.crt different but usly do not have problems unless its not syn.
Does the ghosting fix and bypass apply to pal units also? Thanks
Hello it’s for 1chip 01 , 02 or 03 ?
Thinks
Voultar, I have 4 sness and all of them seem to not be a onechip... any way to fix the vertical band on those? it really bothers me. Your videos are great!
Does this fix the background checkerboard effect on some title screens also?
Nice ESD safe brush you've got there 👍
Thanks for knowing what ESD even is.
@@Voultar have you never had any issues with it? (I guess not if you've done lots of consoles using one)
@@ximonx I have a pretty elaborate ESD setup here in the lab. And nylon typically isn't a good candidate for ESD discharge. So no, I've never had a problem.
@@Voultar good to know 👍
I'm getting a purple hue when using scart. It wasn't like this before. Tried different cables but it's still the same. Bad ths7374 you think?
I assume this will still work fine with an HD Retrovision component cable, correct?
Yes absolutely
Nice mod, do you do any mods on modern gear?
What a soldering torture...
I am literally itching from the soldering in these videos
Any thoughts of integrating a dejitter option into the RGB amp?
I just installed a dejitter board myself from Videogame perfection.com it was easy to install and worked great first shot so happy to have my SNES working perfect with my OSSC.
I just did the same as well. My Sony TV which wouldn't take any signal from my snes or av famicom can now display 5x scaled ossc from both. It's a great mod and would be cool if these two were combined
You can always tell who the real gurus are by how worn their irons looks. You do clean work.
What size and kind of wire is sent in the kit? I just wanna make sure I the right size wire to do the svideo part of the mod. Thanks 👍
Hello, I bought this awesome mod, but I am confused because I dont know which rgb cable ,shoukd I use, there are so many variations((( Help me
enjoyed the video and your channel thank you for sharing :)
I have the SNS-CPU-RGB-02. It's a 3 chip board, but it uses the same S-RGB for its RBB encoder. Do you think I could use this mod (changing where I land my wires to fit my board) and get any benefits or do I need to look at a different board?
the heck do i get this capacitor? i cannot find a single result on amazon or ebay, what am i missing?
great tip! and in the other revisions of the SNES, GPU, SHVC, APU, where would the C11-related capacitor of the 1-chip revision be?
Great video Voultar I congratulate you I have a question how can I know if a normal SNES brings the 1CHIP without opening the console, in my city Tulsa, there is a retro store they sell consoles but they are not going to allow you to open the console to see if they are 1CHIP or they are not, there is another way to find out, I hope you can answer my question thank you very much.
Usually the Serial number at the bottom of the console with be a UN3..... it's not a guarantee necessarily but just know if it starts with a 1 or 2 it's most definitely not a 1 chip unless some weird swap has been done at some point which I'd think is super rare.
Here's a fun drinking game. Everytime he says shaft, take a shot. You'll vomit very quickly
voltar will you do a intro to soldering. I REALLY want to work on some tech but never was taught how to
Hey, thanks for the amazing video! I'm planning on doing this to my 1chip03 super famicom. For the 1chip03 will I still need to reenable c-sync? Also is the brightness mod still necessary? Thank you very much :)
Edit: Nevermind! Your blurb on the store page answered all my questions! :)
what temp do you set your solder iron to?
I would love to know this, haven't found a video where he says.
I'm looking at this as a mod for my 1CHIP, but the other guides I have read don't mention removing those SMD resistors. Why is it needed here?
EDIT: Looks like the other guide I was looking at was for a SNES Mini/Jr, so there is no RGB encoder to take out of circuit, that's why.
Hey voultar I love the videos, do you repair and mod game gear ?
Hi Voultar, question. Is there a difference with the super nes 1 chip 01, vs 02, 03?