im a plumber myself and ive done underground rough ins, I have to say that this video is very explainable for anyone who is not a plumber and wanted to do their own plumbing. good enough video
Question - how does the drain for the lavatory act as the vent (wet vent for all other fixtures)? Around 6:40 he says it. So there's not actual vent that goes to the outside?
@@nofurtherwest3474 oversized drain line. The air is able to get between the water and the top side of the pipe. If it were a smaller pipe there would be no room for the air and water.
I was frying my head trying to understand what the heck was that pipe going absolutely nowhere in my basement. Thanks to you guys, now I fully understand the reason. You guys are awesome!
Great video and thanks for explaining the wet venting and local codes. I've had a basement rough in video on my channel for a while now and people are always questioning the venting and what is right and wrong. Different codes depending on where you are.
you never want to use flexible couplings under the concrete but rather a solid metal banded coupling with a rubber behind it, its called a mission band, over time flexible rubber couplings can flex to much, if shifting occurs in the ground that could potentially obstruct the flexible coupling they used in this video, what they used is a fernco, I suggest a mission band.
I agree buried under concrete is not the place for a fernco. Hopefully by the time it's a problem this couple's transgender kids will have to deal with it .
I am so glad they did not installed water supplies in the concrete floor. It would have been easier this way, but running water supply trough Sheetrock wall cavity is the best way to do it. Props to Rich!
Been in the trades 16 years. Have had a master plumber, master electrical, and master hvac license for 11 of those years. I am now a building inspector. First thing I see is working clearances to the breaker box when walls are built, you are not going to have three foot in front of it. Looks like about 32 inches if you go by seems in the blocks, and that's not counting that the front of the breaker box is four inches from the wall surface to start with. Second thing, depending on code they are on, they may or may not have done the venting correctly. As a plumber I would have vented the toilet separately, however depending on the code for that jurisdiction they may be within code, however codes are minimum standards, nothing saying you can't do more, and all we are really talking about is a few more dollars in fittings, not much in the overall cost of adding a bathroom. Third that is going to be a finished area, I would have depending on circumstances outside, dug down outside and made it to where I had PVC to outside of the home, as well as installed cleanouts on the outside of the home, again not required to do that per code, however why mess up a perfect finished area when cast iron fails, and it will fail. I might also would consider a check valve in the event of a sewer backup you don't flood the area, however check valves do fail, and that can be a problem too.
Back in the day guys used to mix 3/4 glue and 1/4 primer and you still got that purple color around each joint!!! It would water down your glue a bit but would actually go on better it's frowned upon these days though!!!
Boy if Osha saw you cutting out that closet bend with that grinder safety cover off!!! 😂 Greetings from Miami, Florida. I'm also a licensed Plumber, the things we have to do to get the job done! 🙃👍
1#...Use a soil pipe cutter. 2#...use some kind of 1/2" minus or screenings to support piping from underneath, before concrete comes. 3#... Box off shower for drain install..not wadded up plastic.
I see alot of comments about the wet vent smelling bad, it's not to open air. It either ties into the buildings existing vent or if code permits you can get a $20 one way vent that only allows air in. Wet vents work well. I may have added an additional vent for the shower at least but just my opinion .
consumer tip, if it's only a few more feet to get outside of the house, then have your plumber go ahead and replace it. If that "80 yr old cast" fails 6 months later, then your tearing out brand new floor, tile.
They are also installing a toilet so they will come at a point it all gets to rusty and toilet paper gets stuck there. You don't want to save on something like this when you can easily go outside you will regret it if you don't. When you spend so much money on renovation do it good or buy a new house.
This is the easiest install of all time being that there was already a bathroom there. Where I live, no one cares if you move your toilet from one side to another, but in states like NJ and NY it's endless bureaucratic red tape and paying for inspections.
TIP : When doing a lot of PVC cutting , a miter saw will make perfect cuts every time very quickly, and no burring , you can cut up to a 4 inch pipe with a standard saw .
No. That was a garbage job. I've been in the plumbing business before you were dropping deuces in diapers and I tell you that was a garbage plumbing job.
@@johnsmith-wc8gs I kind of have to agree with T Durden. I'm a Licensed Master Plumber in Michigan. In no particular order...there are a few things that I would not let fly if it were my job. Not necessarily code violations but just a few sloppy things. First, this is an underground. Not a "Rough". They should of built boxes to go around the trap for the shower, to help protect when concrete is poured. Risers should of been used and came high enough to cap. Not use plastic or cellophane. I would of used a sawzall with a diamond blade, instead of the grinder. Also would of been bedding the pipe with fresh fill as we went, which brings me to the next thing---If you are good at running DWV you should not have to "dry fit". You should measure, cut, prime and glue. Done! I also did not see an air test. Either way, neither of these two would ever cut it working for me.
You should have installed a backwater valve to protect the bathroom since this is the basement . Also our plumbing code mentions that you need 1/4 per feet pitch for a pipe that is 3"or less. 1/8 per feet is for pipes 4" to 6".
12.5" is all you need.... Thanks for deciding the wall covering for me by refusing to add enough room to possibly tile my walls... Did a bathroom reno and thankfully had the forethought to measure the closet flange placement, 12.5 wouldn't even fit cheap white builders tiles with adhesive let alone the 5/8" honed 18" square travertine I used. I moved mine to 13.25 and after the substrate, large format grout and tile there was less than 1/8" to spare after the 12" offset toilet was installed. Especially in the case of a basement install under concrete, give yourself an extra .25 to .5" clearance, you can tile in the future if desired and if your toilet tank needs to rest on the wall a small shim or spacer will never be noticed if installed properly.
You're the pro & I really don't know as I am just a handyman' But having done some jobs plumbing the inspectors alway's told me that any buried pipe connections such as your showing could not be hooked up w/a regular rubber boot as it had to be an emissions coupling. The truth be known, inspectors lie when they inspect a handyman's work & they resent a man making an honest living giving the home owners a fair price w/out taking him to the cleaners. It cut's in on the licensed plumbers license to steal. I know from experience plumbing is a dirty job, But I do believe it's just as dirty to rip people off!. I was installing schedule 40 in a basement that had 3" stacks to it & I installed 3" schedule 40. The inspector told me it had to be 4" pipe & I had to tear it out & waste it as it been already glued. I complied W/ 4" pipe when he came back & then said it had to be 3". I argued & told him he's already cost me hundreds of dollars of work & material when I had it already correct the first time. He just said well today it's back to 3" He did not like it that I was non-union & that I was a good man to have on hand, Dave the handyman. I don't rip people off & I believe what goes around comes around. His stupidity is in judgment day coming! May God bless his people.
First off, Plumbers are a licensed trade - not handymen. In Mass it takes 5 years of school before you can even sit for the Journeyman's test. You could not pull a plumbing permit in my state let alone perform work and stand for an inspection without being a licensed plumber. Plumbing work should always be left to the professionals since they are responsible for protecting the water supply in homes/neighborhoods/communities as well as Waste and Gas (propane and NG). We have codes that we must follow, we have continuing education (6 hours a year) to stay current with our craft. What does a handyman have to do, read another Plumbing for Idiots Book? Union or non Union does not matter, being a licensed tradesman is what really matters in the end. So stick with squeaky doors and stuck window panes. Leave the skilled trade work to the licensed guy. If you like Plumbing so much - go be an apprentice and work your way up like everyone else has in the trade! -GtheP.
There is a reason handyman shouldn't do plumbing for the public. If you mess up you might not only hurt your customer but the public as well. There's a reason that a plumber needs a license....they have to know what they are doing.
You need to use a stainless steel banded mission coupling for any connection between two different materials. Above or below ground anything else will shear or degrade over time and cause problems
lol I am glad im not the only one that noticed that. Totally inappropriate way to install that clamp. With the uneven clamping pressure on that coupler that's bound to leak down the road now.
Just for clarification no obstructions 15" either side of toilet measured from centre of drain. Also the lav can serve as the vent for both toilet and shower so long as it's within 6' of each fixture being served. When thats not obtainable you must increase pipe size by one size
@@KPAU07 \ Building codes. The never ending gov foot in the door. The amount of changes to simple crap over 20 years is insane. So many codes are added just to find something to charge you for.
@@BobBob-we3wr Maybe it's for a rental. If your basement is tall enough, and have the correct sized windows and the correct amount, you can legally build a bedroom.
such a great video! Thank you. What would you recommend if we want to add a bathroom with toilets in the basement of a house that is not connected to the plumbing. The plumbing is located at the level above the location in which the bathroom would be added. Thank you
when using the fernco coupling you should use a 4" fernco coupling with a metal brace and then reduced to 3" using a 4x3 pvc reducer, you cannot use a fernco with out a big metal brace
Who all remembers watching This Old House back in the 1970s and 80s when they offered absolutely no information of any value? Thank gawd for the new This Old House. Reputation REDEEMED!
these comments are simply classic. as soon as he measured the offset at 12.5" and not 13", i knew this was gonna be loaded with goodies. nobody here let me down either. hahahaha.
How do I see the rest of the episode? This is super helpful and exactly what I need to do but the link to the rest of the episode doesn't work anymore.
80 year old cast iron pipe that’s stood the test of time, let’s use a $2 Chinese coupling and some hose clamps that’ll rust out in 12 months and burry it in concrete.
So im doing my basement bathroom over. Its currently ABOVE concrete plumbing. Its almost 18in off the floor. Smh. So im trying to rough in plumbing. So I bought a 4in pvc to come from the upstairs toilet(i have a toilet stack down here) going vertically to a sanitary tee. To the left I have another 4 in pvc to a 90° ANGLE and attached a 4 in spigot flange with a cap and ring. On the right side i have another 4 in pvc (going in a straight line) transition to a 3 in pvc. A 3 inch to 2 inch elbow that then transitions to a small 2in. Pvc and shower drain and a for my shower. Am i doing this wrong
Eh... I'm a plumber of 10 years in Canada. This install is alright. My only grievance is the fact the shower is dumping over the lav, and I think they used too many fittings. The lav should be upstream of the shower so the shower can vent when it turns through the 45. I'd prob have put a 6*3 fernco on the hub of the CI. The hub will last way longer than the leaded joint. From there I would of put a 3" Y, the branch picks up the toilet. Bush down to 2", then a 2" Y, the branch picks up the shower, then two 45's to pick up the lav. I think this orientation saves a couple fittings. If the inspector demands a 3" cleanout I would probably put a 3" Y upstream of the toilet Y and have it 45 up into whatever wall near the toilet with an access panel in the drywall.
In New Orleans you can't use any metal fittings underground because of the soggy soil. So it's fernco or mission fittings with the bands removed, then cast in concrete, or donuts into a hub.
That rubber reducer with the clamps remind me of the old black water pipe that used a fitting and clamps years ago. Someone will suffer lots of grief someday because of those clamps stainless or not.
@@LumenChaser Short answer They may have noticed the seal was broken and just didn't include any info on it in the video to keep the complexity down. Long answer If they didn't notice it, that will definitely leak. It's not a pressurized line so it'll be a slow leak. What happens will depend on the ground. If it's dry ground it may leach away for many years or maybe it'll never be an issue, but that's a slim chance at best. If the ground is saturated with moisture any sewerage will seep under the slab and accumulate, anaerobic bacteria will build up and create a biomat, which will further trap moisture. That slab floor will always seem damp, but more importantly it will always smell dank because of the trace amounts of gas seeping through the slab. The trace gas probably won't be enough to hurt anyone but the smell will be noticeable. The first thing the homeowner will do is use sprays to kill the smells, then use cleaner/bleach on the floors, but the smell will persist. A moderately skilled plumber will most likely recognize the smell and be able to diagnose the issue. But if the homeowner brings in a general repair the first thing they'll likely suggest is to seal the slab, which won't work. A waste of money. If they get very unlucky a foundation repair will suggest a new foundation drainage system. Which is expensive and has a possibility of working because that will take away a lot of the moisture. Anaerobic bacteria flourish in wet conditions, less moisture the less bacteria. But the smell will likely persist. If they didn't fix that seal before they finished the remodel, they'll have to remove all the fixtures, take up the flooring, dig up the slab in that area, fix the seal and then put it all back. If they did replace the seal at that stage in the video, since the slab is already gone, a plumber would chisel carefully around the pipe for an hour or so to reveal it. Put on a new coupler and seal. Maybe $70-100 extra cost on the remodel price. Which is worth it. They never should have shown people that you can guess whether the seal is intact or not. Just replace it, the added cost is insignificant compared to the total cost of the remodel and a new seal will last for decades.
Hmmm. Looking at this. I see the elec circuit breaker box. Suppose to have a 3 ft clearance in front of that panel. Code. Can,t tell if this is far enough away from where the lubber is laid down in front?
I didn't know anyone is even pouring molten lead anymore. That process drove me OUT of plumbing as a young apprentice. The weight and excessive labor of working with cast iron. Then, some brilliant inventor came up with the rubber "donuts" as you mentioned. It turned everything 180 as far as labor and ease goes.
@@biff322 True, and they shared only 1 or 2 nuggets on how to do that part. But also, I'm sure people would've like to have seen them take the process at least to how it ties in with the framing, if not to the drywall phase.
They will probably silicone the joint then leave it exposed and fill all around it with concrete when they pour floor. They are hacks and I would not copy anything I saw in this video or take any of his advice.
Yeah some guy pointed that out and they deleted his comment and it looks like they put a suggestion box for another video over the pipe so nobody could see their fuck up
I like it,I'm technicians plumber from Tanzania, I agreed this cast pipe to change comes to PVC that nice,pls bring us that material in African there so many problems over hire.
I recommend using an electric 12" or 14" saw with a diamond blade for all basement ruff ins.. 14" is best for cutting in one pass any 4 inch cast. Electric becuase the stihl gas saws just stink the whole place up and gives everyone a headache
ike fun, don't go calling people f***** retards when you yourself are one. they arent foot blocks. standard concrete blocks are 16", occasionally they are 14"
ike fun ike fun you're insane! So what you're saying is at 5:15 when his foot is against the masonry wall and his KNEE is on the new wooden wall, that from his foot to knee is 3'???? So that means the next thing is from his knee to hip is again 3 more feet and so on!? So he must be 9-10 feet tall you moron. That wall is roughly 18" away from the face of the panel. It's completely wrong
@@timothybarney7257 It's actually 150V to ground and less, that is the cutoff for working space to always be 3 feet in depth, regardless of surface condition behind the worker. So this would apply for a residential 120/240V system, a 120/208V three-phase wye system, and a 120/208V single phase partial wye system for an apartment dwelling uint. Over 150V to ground, requires greater working space, depending on the surface condition behind you. So this would apply to high leg delta systems that have a B-phase that is 208V to ground on 120/240V three phase, commercial 277/480V applications, and 347/600V industrial applications. An insulated condition behind you, like a plastic fence, wood, drywall, or vegetation, would still require 3 feet. A conductive or conditionally conductive condition, would require 3'-6", such as concrete block walls, chain link fences, or the backs/sides of other equipment. A common aisle situation between to pieces of equipment would require 4 feet.
Remove cast from bell, install pvc ferrell, pack pour lead right into that bell, no band not disturbing a thing @ Philadelphia plumbers best tradesman in world
+Thias Russell those black ribbed pipes? That's called a French drain. Concrete is a porous material, moisture can seep through causing the basement to have water. These drains catch the water and slowly drains it into the ground below the slab.
Code might be different in the area this video was recorded in but where I work we would have needed to use a 3"x4" bushing inside a 4" fernco connecting to that cast iron with a sheer band around the fernco.
First off im surprised they had no shrinkage dry-fitting and gluing that whole layout. Second, why didn't they remove the cast iron all the way to the hub and use a soil pipe adapter?
Why would anyone be trashing her for being inquisitive? She's young, prob never been around things like that before and its probably the first house of her own! "A wise man didn't get wise by not asking questions!" Now.....gather your insecure selves and be gone! And have a great day while you're there!😀👍
Whos trashing her? I thought it was awesome she asks all those questions while her husband just sat back and smiled. A women who is always willing to learn something that normally men do is awesome. Wish more females were like her.
Harder to get underneath the pipe with it though. I usually just use the diamond grit sawzall blades, then you don't have to dig around the pipe so much
Thats such an easy build considering the main pipe to the sewer is under ground. What if it exits the house 4 feet above the finish slab.? Have to use a sewage ejector pump and that requires a lot more work
That's what we had done; went with a Liberty pump basin, with toilet, lav stubs, floor drain, util sink, $5K and some change. More work because cutting into concrete floor, yes, so we kept area to minimum, no shower.
@@bgregg55 When I first heard lavatory in the Monty Python Lumberjack song, I thought it was a species of tree, since we rarely use the term lavatory in the US in everyday speech. The British accent makes "lavatory" sound like "lavatree".
You might like the sound, but no one will like the smell of the sewer gasses. Even if you have no sense of smell, it is a fire hazard and a health hazard to let these gases in the house.
![Plumbing a bathroom explained in 4 minutes. [You CAN do it!] #diy #plumbing](/img/1.gif)
im a plumber myself and ive done underground rough ins, I have to say that this video is very explainable for anyone who is not a plumber and wanted to do their own plumbing. good enough video
Question - how does the drain for the lavatory act as the vent (wet vent for all other fixtures)? Around 6:40 he says it. So there's not actual vent that goes to the outside?
@@nofurtherwest3474 I wonder can an air admittance valve be used for everything instead of routing to the roof?
@@nofurtherwest3474 oversized drain line. The air is able to get between the water and the top side of the pipe. If it were a smaller pipe there would be no room for the air and water.
@@corysturgis6660 yes.. I am a plumber.. It is possible
@@lep8622 yes. I AM A PLUMBER AND IT IS POSSIBLE TO REPLACE A NATURAL VENT WITH A MECHANICAL ONE
Richard is so humble. My favorite member of this old house.
Growing up and even now still this show is just dope
Ikr, same here
smoke it, dope head !
I was frying my head trying to understand what the heck was that pipe going absolutely nowhere in my basement. Thanks to you guys, now I fully understand the reason. You guys are awesome!
Great! I’ll start excavating my basement to look for any vintage drain pipes. Hope I find one!
hehe lil funny
🤣🤣🤣
I'm doing the same, didn't find anything but the cost to put down new concrete is over 10,000...Whoops...should've just sh-t outside in the grass
@@johnames6430 😂😂😂😂😂😂
@@johnames6430hahhhhaa nice! , good laugh
As a aspiring plumber this channel is extremely fun to watch and also motivating. Thanks. :-)
Polymoon you will be great
I need a good plumber.
It's a great way to find out how NOT to do things
If you're learning to plumb. Stop watching u-tube. I can lay out 5 things wrong with this plumbing system.
No vent for the shitter lmao, that why cuts off any sort of wet vent lmao
Great video and thanks for explaining the wet venting and local codes. I've had a basement rough in video on my channel for a while now and people are always questioning the venting and what is right and wrong. Different codes depending on where you are.
I was after the info at the very end, as I'm ready for concrete, but was concerned about the pipes getting bound. Good tips.
you never want to use flexible couplings under the concrete but rather a solid metal banded coupling with a rubber behind it, its called a mission band, over time flexible rubber couplings can flex to much, if shifting occurs in the ground that could potentially obstruct the flexible coupling they used in this video, what they used is a fernco, I suggest a mission band.
I agree buried under concrete is not the place for a fernco. Hopefully by the time it's a problem this couple's transgender kids will have to deal with it .
@@wesfrazier5739 LOL!
Why would there be shifting?
Actually, I think it is reversed - you want banded coupling above ground so they don't sag!!
The old cast pipe moved as they tightened it! Among plenty of other issues!
yup saw that too. ruclips.net/video/gqwAETNyTnE/видео.html that joint is toast.
Richard is one of a kind. Great teacher, he is truly passionate about plumbing/HVAC
I am so glad they did not installed water supplies in the concrete floor. It would have been easier this way, but running water supply trough Sheetrock wall cavity is the best way to do it. Props to Rich!
Been in the trades 16 years. Have had a master plumber, master electrical, and master hvac license for 11 of those years. I am now a building inspector.
First thing I see is working clearances to the breaker box when walls are built, you are not going to have three foot in front of it. Looks like about 32 inches if you go by seems in the blocks, and that's not counting that the front of the breaker box is four inches from the wall surface to start with.
Second thing, depending on code they are on, they may or may not have done the venting correctly. As a plumber I would have vented the toilet separately, however depending on the code for that jurisdiction they may be within code, however codes are minimum standards, nothing saying you can't do more, and all we are really talking about is a few more dollars in fittings, not much in the overall cost of adding a bathroom.
Third that is going to be a finished area, I would have depending on circumstances outside, dug down outside and made it to where I had PVC to outside of the home, as well as installed cleanouts on the outside of the home, again not required to do that per code, however why mess up a perfect finished area when cast iron fails, and it will fail. I might also would consider a check valve in the event of a sewer backup you don't flood the area, however check valves do fail, and that can be a problem too.
I don’t really care about this video much but I just love reading comments. Such a fun time. God bless RUclips, God bless American inventors.
4:15 loved how he gently put his hands on the pvc cause he knew his buddy was dealing with a saw
i noticed that as well
I like how his glue and primer bottles are banded together. Great idea.
I noticed that also. I was wondering if it would help prevent me spilling the glue or make it where I spill both, instead of one.
Back in the day guys used to mix 3/4 glue and 1/4 primer and you still got that purple color around each joint!!! It would water down your glue a bit but would actually go on better it's frowned upon these days though!!!
There goes the 3 ft clearance for the breaker panel. Nice job guys...
Boy if Osha saw you cutting out that closet bend with that grinder safety cover off!!! 😂
Greetings from Miami, Florida.
I'm also a licensed Plumber, the things we have to do to get the job done! 🙃👍
I like how the cast iron pipe was moving as they were tightening up the clamp.
I thought i saw it move i was confused for a sec.... 😅
1#...Use a soil pipe cutter.
2#...use some kind of 1/2" minus or screenings to support piping from underneath, before concrete comes.
3#... Box off shower for drain install..not wadded up plastic.
I see alot of comments about the wet vent smelling bad, it's not to open air. It either ties into the buildings existing vent or if code permits you can get a $20 one way vent that only allows air in. Wet vents work well. I may have added an additional vent for the shower at least but just my opinion .
consumer tip, if it's only a few more feet to get outside of the house, then have your plumber go ahead and replace it. If that "80 yr old cast" fails 6 months later, then your tearing out brand new floor, tile.
Scott O'Brien" so true! that's what i said more money spent if it start coming apart.
It may be 80 years old but it will last another 900 years. Stupid advice to spend more money digging
They are also installing a toilet so they will come at a point it all gets to rusty and toilet paper gets stuck there. You don't want to save on something like this when you can easily go outside you will regret it if you don't. When you spend so much money on renovation do it good or buy a new house.
When he cut the line you could see how much material was still there. If pipe is in good shape why replace?
@@davem3789 Because, metal pipes only have a 30-50 year life expectancy when in use for water.
This is the easiest install of all time being that there was already a bathroom there. Where I live, no one cares if you move your toilet from one side to another, but in states like NJ and NY it's endless bureaucratic red tape and paying for inspections.
I was hoping to see how they were going to solution that problem... Thinking they were starting from scratch.
AxZxTxExCxA same
Copykon's Music
AxZxTxExCxA probably would have used a macerating unit.
They could have done this without a permit. No one would have been The wiser
I love everything about this channel, I gel the most useful tips and advice, and I get to see them actually do it.
TIP : When doing a lot of PVC cutting , a miter saw will make perfect cuts every time very quickly, and no burring , you can cut up to a 4 inch pipe with a standard saw .
This guy is a professional plumber, and you have Richard talking to him like he doesn't know what he's doing.
No. That was a garbage job. I've been in the plumbing business before you were dropping deuces in diapers and I tell you that was a garbage plumbing job.
@@tdurden9532 please explain?
@@johnsmith-wc8gs I kind of have to agree with T Durden. I'm a Licensed Master Plumber in Michigan.
In no particular order...there are a few things that I would not let fly if it were my job. Not necessarily code violations but just a few sloppy things.
First, this is an underground. Not a "Rough".
They should of built boxes to go around the trap for the shower, to help protect when concrete is poured.
Risers should of been used and came high enough to cap. Not use plastic or cellophane.
I would of used a sawzall with a diamond blade, instead of the grinder. Also would of been bedding the pipe with fresh fill as we went, which brings me to the next thing---If you are good at running DWV you should not have to "dry fit".
You should measure, cut, prime and glue. Done! I also did not see an air test.
Either way, neither of these two would ever cut it working for me.
@@gunsnstuff4040 See this man knows his craft. If your not a licensed plumber or been in business for over 20 years please shut up.
That and the dummy tape he's using 🤣🤦🏾♂️
You should have installed a backwater valve to protect the bathroom since this is the basement . Also our plumbing code mentions that you need 1/4 per feet pitch for a pipe that is 3"or less. 1/8 per feet is for pipes 4" to 6".
Backwater valve is required where I live, and horizontal dry vents are not allowed
@@HaakonAnderson horizontal dry venting not allowed because they can plug up with dirt and sediment?
Just curious..
@@REWYRED they will most likely function fine, inspectors don't wanna see it so we don't do it
It's just honestly not professional, water and waste could enter it, get paid to be professional and
Jesus, this man is an animal. Diamond blade grinder on cast iron with no ear plugs lol
exactly my thoughts
@@slandingham What?
Sweet mother of god do you know how loud that would have been? Dude must have insane tinnitus if he’s gone through his career like that.
Thank you so much for this old and informative video. Did he said an 1/8 of inch slope?
12.5" is all you need.... Thanks for deciding the wall covering for me by refusing to add enough room to possibly tile my walls... Did a bathroom reno and thankfully had the forethought to measure the closet flange placement, 12.5 wouldn't even fit cheap white builders tiles with adhesive let alone the 5/8" honed 18" square travertine I used. I moved mine to 13.25 and after the substrate, large format grout and tile there was less than 1/8" to spare after the 12" offset toilet was installed.
Especially in the case of a basement install under concrete, give yourself an extra .25 to .5" clearance, you can tile in the future if desired and if your toilet tank needs to rest on the wall a small shim or spacer will never be noticed if installed properly.
You're the pro & I really don't know as I am just a handyman' But having done some jobs plumbing the inspectors alway's told me that any buried pipe connections such as your showing could not be hooked up w/a regular rubber boot as it had to be an emissions coupling. The truth be known, inspectors lie when they inspect a handyman's work & they resent a man making an honest living giving the home owners a fair price w/out taking him to the cleaners. It cut's in on the licensed plumbers license to steal. I know from experience plumbing is a dirty job, But I do believe it's just as dirty to rip people off!. I was installing schedule 40 in a basement that had 3" stacks to it & I installed 3" schedule 40. The inspector told me it had to be 4" pipe & I had to tear it out & waste it as it been already glued. I complied W/ 4" pipe when he came back & then said it had to be 3". I argued & told him he's already cost me hundreds of dollars of work & material when I had it already correct the first time. He just said well today it's back to 3" He did not like it that I was non-union & that I was a good man to have on hand, Dave the handyman. I don't rip people off & I believe what goes around comes around. His stupidity is in judgment day coming! May God bless his people.
First off, Plumbers are a licensed trade - not handymen. In Mass it takes 5 years of school before you can even sit for the Journeyman's test. You could not pull a plumbing permit in my state let alone perform work and stand for an inspection without being a licensed plumber. Plumbing work should always be left to the professionals since they are responsible for protecting the water supply in homes/neighborhoods/communities as well as Waste and Gas (propane and NG). We have codes that we must follow, we have continuing education (6 hours a year) to stay current with our craft. What does a handyman have to do, read another Plumbing for Idiots Book? Union or non Union does not matter, being a licensed tradesman is what really matters in the end. So stick with squeaky doors and stuck window panes. Leave the skilled trade work to the licensed guy. If you like Plumbing so much - go be an apprentice and work your way up like everyone else has in the trade! -GtheP.
Actually Dave, you are ripping your customers off by not being a licensed plumber and doing plumbing work.
There is a reason handyman shouldn't do plumbing for the public. If you mess up you might not only hurt your customer but the public as well. There's a reason that a plumber needs a license....they have to know what they are doing.
I'm a jack of trades myself but there's 2 things I tell customers I will not touch. Plumbing and electrical. You fuck those up you're out of business.
You need to use a stainless steel banded mission coupling for any connection between two different materials. Above or below ground anything else will shear or degrade over time and cause problems
3:43 the clamp has slipped out of the groove on the bottom as he torques it down.
Its not a huge deal.. the compression will hold it in place
lol I am glad im not the only one that noticed that. Totally inappropriate way to install that clamp. With the uneven clamping pressure on that coupler that's bound to leak down the road now.
you need to account for 1/2” drywall, mud 1/8” and tile usually 1/4” so your toilet should have been 12 7/8” or 13”
This is the second one for the basement bat. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOuLt8IL_GxhhaK8DBuKEL-zV0UJVpWZn , works great
Just for clarification no obstructions 15" either side of toilet measured from centre of drain.
Also the lav can serve as the vent for both toilet and shower so long as it's within 6' of each fixture being served. When thats not obtainable you must increase pipe size by one size
The real question is why are they putting a master bedroom in the basement?
So the kids won't here mom and dad playing
illegal in most cases building codes.
It puts the lotion on or it gets the hose.
@@KPAU07 \ Building codes. The never ending gov foot in the door. The amount of changes to simple crap over 20 years is insane. So many codes are added just to find something to charge you for.
@@BobBob-we3wr Maybe it's for a rental. If your basement is tall enough, and have the correct sized windows and the correct amount, you can legally build a bedroom.
Im addicted to this channel and this guy
such a great video! Thank you. What would you recommend if we want to add a bathroom with toilets in the basement of a house that is not connected to the plumbing. The plumbing is located at the level above the location in which the bathroom would be added. Thank you
I've cut cast iron pipe using a fiberglass blade. Like butter.
when using the fernco coupling you should use a 4" fernco coupling with a metal brace and then reduced to 3" using a 4x3 pvc reducer, you cannot use a fernco with out a big metal brace
huh?
4:12 😳😳😳 my thumb is never anywhere close to my sawzall blade. Maybe this one has a shorter safer throw? Still I'm not that brave
Who all remembers watching This Old House back in the 1970s and 80s when they offered absolutely no information of any value? Thank gawd for the new This Old House. Reputation REDEEMED!
you don't encase the pipe in concrete, you bury it in thw sand/gravel that's been tamped down to evenly support the pipe
I’ve never used a diamond blade for metal only ever used them on block or concrete. Grinder zip cut discs are what I’ve used to cut cast.
Diamond seawall blade?
Diamond blade last much much longer, cuts cleaner and safer
Shouldn't flexible coupling (rubber fernco) have a stainless steel band/ shield if it's going to be buried underground?
Yes, In Massachutsets is a requirement
So the toilet and shower pipes are 1 inch correct? And then you upsized the vanity drain to 2 inches to double as a vent for all 3 fixtures??
these comments are simply classic. as soon as he measured the offset at 12.5" and not 13", i knew this was gonna be loaded with goodies. nobody here let me down either. hahahaha.
Standard offset for residential toilet with 1/2 wallboard is 12.5” off of the framing. 13 would be for commercial with rc channel and wallboard.
@@mitchjones2821 true
Umm, what if they going to tile the wall?
@@jamesintriago8816 tell em they cant have it
How do I see the rest of the episode? This is super helpful and exactly what I need to do but the link to the rest of the episode doesn't work anymore.
Great vudeo im gonna install my bathroom basement in 10 years from now
Sewer gas is not only smelly, it can be deadly and/or explosive.
80 year old cast iron pipe that’s stood the test of time, let’s use a $2 Chinese coupling and some hose clamps that’ll rust out in 12 months and burry it in concrete.
Is it okay to use those hose clamps in concrete?
I do not know if that piece of corrugated pipe was disconnected like that but I hope they put it back together
A proper ci/pvc transition would be to maintain 4" to the new closet bend, thereby creating a full sized cleanout through the foundation.
So im doing my basement bathroom over. Its currently ABOVE concrete plumbing. Its almost 18in off the floor. Smh. So im trying to rough in plumbing. So I bought a 4in pvc to come from the upstairs toilet(i have a toilet stack down here) going vertically to a sanitary tee. To the left I have another 4 in pvc to a 90° ANGLE and attached a 4 in spigot flange with a cap and ring.
On the right side i have another 4 in pvc (going in a straight line) transition to a 3 in pvc. A 3 inch to 2 inch elbow that then transitions to a small 2in. Pvc and shower drain and a for my shower. Am i doing this wrong
@@ladyrenaissance2026 ...or just pump it up
@@Freedomring-uk6yd sump pump?
No hearing protection. No gloves. Free hand cutting. Great example to set.
hearing protection? don't be a weenus
Eh... I'm a plumber of 10 years in Canada. This install is alright. My only grievance is the fact the shower is dumping over the lav, and I think they used too many fittings. The lav should be upstream of the shower so the shower can vent when it turns through the 45. I'd prob have put a 6*3 fernco on the hub of the CI. The hub will last way longer than the leaded joint. From there I would of put a 3" Y, the branch picks up the toilet. Bush down to 2", then a 2" Y, the branch picks up the shower, then two 45's to pick up the lav. I think this orientation saves a couple fittings. If the inspector demands a 3" cleanout I would probably put a 3" Y upstream of the toilet Y and have it 45 up into whatever wall near the toilet with an access panel in the drywall.
When I was a plumber in Mass a Fernco was not code. 4 band mission clamp underground only.
In New Orleans you can't use any metal fittings underground because of the soggy soil. So it's fernco or mission fittings with the bands removed, then cast in concrete, or donuts into a hub.
They didn't use purple primer when gluing the pipes.
So? What's wrong with clear? The inspector decides what color you use not the plumber.
That rubber reducer with the clamps remind me of the old black water pipe that used a fitting and clamps years ago. Someone will suffer lots of grief someday because of those clamps stainless or not.
Watch @ 05:01 when he's tightening the clamp, the cast iron pipe swivels. That means the lead seal is bad. It's going to leak.
Amazing eye, wonder if they will notice it or it will just seep into the ground without notice
@@LumenChaser
Short answer
They may have noticed the seal was broken and just didn't include any info on it in the video to keep the complexity down.
Long answer
If they didn't notice it, that will definitely leak. It's not a pressurized line so it'll be a slow leak. What happens will depend on the ground. If it's dry ground it may leach away for many years or maybe it'll never be an issue, but that's a slim chance at best.
If the ground is saturated with moisture any sewerage will seep under the slab and accumulate, anaerobic bacteria will build up and create a biomat, which will further trap moisture. That slab floor will always seem damp, but more importantly it will always smell dank because of the trace amounts of gas seeping through the slab. The trace gas probably won't be enough to hurt anyone but the smell will be noticeable.
The first thing the homeowner will do is use sprays to kill the smells, then use cleaner/bleach on the floors, but the smell will persist. A moderately skilled plumber will most likely recognize the smell and be able to diagnose the issue. But if the homeowner brings in a general repair the first thing they'll likely suggest is to seal the slab, which won't work. A waste of money. If they get very unlucky a foundation repair will suggest a new foundation drainage system. Which is expensive and has a possibility of working because that will take away a lot of the moisture. Anaerobic bacteria flourish in wet conditions, less moisture the less bacteria. But the smell will likely persist.
If they didn't fix that seal before they finished the remodel, they'll have to remove all the fixtures, take up the flooring, dig up the slab in that area, fix the seal and then put it all back.
If they did replace the seal at that stage in the video, since the slab is already gone, a plumber would chisel carefully around the pipe for an hour or so to reveal it. Put on a new coupler and seal. Maybe $70-100 extra cost on the remodel price. Which is worth it. They never should have shown people that you can guess whether the seal is intact or not. Just replace it, the added cost is insignificant compared to the total cost of the remodel and a new seal will last for decades.
Mrdead Inmypocket thanks for the detailed response
Mrdead Inmypocket you are so smart man
Hmmm. Looking at this. I see the elec circuit breaker box. Suppose to have a 3 ft clearance in front of that panel. Code. Can,t tell if this is far enough away from where the lubber is laid down in front?
5:03 you can see the old cast iron pipe has broken free under the foundation. Leak.
this is how dumb you are...its under the foundation, in dirt
@@bilbobaggins5962 Yes dirt. So a constant smell that cant be found. And the tree roots will 100% find it in the “dirt”, so guaranteed leak. Idiot.
So much for not disturbing the old cast iron pipe.... looks like the whole thing shifted at 5:04 as he was tightening up the fitting.
+Video Québec He was talking about the lead further back, not the pipe
+Video Québec Man oh man you have good eyes! It does rotate left a tiny bit; I had to watch 5 times......That's a world of hurt there! Good catch!
look a little closer & you can see that the lead is kinda gone. That joint should've been re-poured, or a new donut installed.
***** Ixnay o-nay oom-ray or-fay eality-ray in-way is-thay orld-way funtranslations.com/pig-latin
I didn't know anyone is even pouring molten lead anymore. That process drove me OUT of plumbing as a young apprentice. The weight and excessive labor of working with cast iron. Then, some brilliant inventor came up with the rubber "donuts" as you mentioned. It turned everything 180 as far as labor and ease goes.
Title: How to install a basement bathroom. Finishes 5% of the bathroom and ends the video.
yeah...wheres the other vids?
Man , I was thinking the EXACT same thing. SMH.
@@biff322 True, and they shared only 1 or 2 nuggets on how to do that part.
But also, I'm sure people would've like to have seen them take the process at least to how it ties in with the framing, if not to the drywall phase.
😂😂totlaly
"We don't want to disrupt this". LOL. Well, YOU DID! 5:04
cringed when i saw it
I was gonna point it out too. But you beat me to it lol. You can see the lead seal joint move. That's a goner.
They’re great! I admire those that are great with home improvement and cars. I’m very clueless to that stuff, which is why I chose computers instead.
How is this code? Where is the vent for this toilet? My city wouldn't let me run a vent that far over. St louis is crap!!
Its a miracle these guys have all their fingers!
I'd recommend a clean out or a backwater valve
“Master” in the basement
Cast iron to PVC.
Good to see you spared no expenses.
0:30 Does it? Their are a lot of places that will allow the home owner to do it so long as they get the proper permits and inspections.
True, but not the tv personality...
In Los Angeles you have to have a minimum 7 degree slope. Also you have to have the housing inspector sign off on it before you pour the cement.
You are brilliant.they have been doing this for a long time are you sure your not from Iowa
2:50 Grinding cast iron without hearing protection equals bad idea.
silverwoodchuck47 and no blade guard
LOL yeah right. That's not all that loud.
pro tip: use a dry rag to de-burr a freshly sawzawed pvc pipe. Squeeze the lip tight with the rag and give it a spin, it gets it clean fast.
Why at 5:06 did the cast iron pipe start to turn then the camera cuts away?
Good eye. It means somewhere down the line its loose or broken. Both not good
Josh Root it's broke right at the joint. The guy noticed it too lol but thinks to himself hell with it...
Josh Root i
They will probably silicone the joint then leave it exposed and fill all around it with concrete when they pour floor. They are hacks and I would not copy anything I saw in this video or take any of his advice.
Yeah some guy pointed that out and they deleted his comment and it looks like they put a suggestion box for another video over the pipe so nobody could see their fuck up
The video was enjoyable - the critics were not!
He didn't even clean the cast iron outer surface before installing the rubber coupling.
Nice water proofing on the that cinder block wall... or not.
4:53 when something actually works like you planned.
3 issues I see:
1 no backwater check valve to prevent sewage to back flow into basement
2 french drain was cut
3 proper clearance for electric panel
Thought all new work requires purple primer to see if the fittings are properly glued.
I like it,I'm technicians plumber from Tanzania, I agreed this cast pipe to change comes to PVC that nice,pls bring us that material in African there so many problems over hire.
Did no one notice the cast iron pipe move at 5:05 to 5:07?
Wow, nice catch.
I came to the comments to say that.
Yep, means they broke the lead in the hob. So now this lady has an open sewer line underneath her master bathroom
I did
I recommend using an electric 12" or 14" saw with a diamond blade for all basement ruff ins.. 14" is best for cutting in one pass any 4 inch cast. Electric becuase the stihl gas saws just stink the whole place up and gives everyone a headache
i may be mistaken, i believe the working clearance is 3ft in front of electrical panel. the wall looks too close for that.
3' minimum for low voltage (up to 250V)
jwest1305
ike fun, don't go calling people f***** retards when you yourself are one. they arent foot blocks. standard concrete blocks are 16", occasionally they are 14"
ike fun ike fun you're insane! So what you're saying is at 5:15 when his foot is against the masonry wall and his KNEE is on the new wooden wall, that from his foot to knee is 3'???? So that means the next thing is from his knee to hip is again 3 more feet and so on!? So he must be 9-10 feet tall you moron. That wall is roughly 18" away from the face of the panel. It's completely wrong
@@timothybarney7257 It's actually 150V to ground and less, that is the cutoff for working space to always be 3 feet in depth, regardless of surface condition behind the worker. So this would apply for a residential 120/240V system, a 120/208V three-phase wye system, and a 120/208V single phase partial wye system for an apartment dwelling uint.
Over 150V to ground, requires greater working space, depending on the surface condition behind you. So this would apply to high leg delta systems that have a B-phase that is 208V to ground on 120/240V three phase, commercial 277/480V applications, and 347/600V industrial applications. An insulated condition behind you, like a plastic fence, wood, drywall, or vegetation, would still require 3 feet. A conductive or conditionally conductive condition, would require 3'-6", such as concrete block walls, chain link fences, or the backs/sides of other equipment. A common aisle situation between to pieces of equipment would require 4 feet.
How protect pipes under house, on pier beems, built around late 40's. The drain pipes were upgraded to pvc 15 years ago.
Remove cast from bell, install pvc ferrell, pack pour lead right into that bell, no band not disturbing a thing @ Philadelphia plumbers best tradesman in world
Only if Union
Love the show. But what about those drain pipes in the ground ??? where are those connected too ???
Regards
+Thias Russell The sewer pipe in the wall. That either goes to the city sewer, or a septic tank in the yard.
+joshua jesse Yep I know but the water drain tubes next to the sewer pipes is what i mean.
Thx.
Regards.
+Thias Russell those black ribbed pipes? That's called a French drain. Concrete is a porous material, moisture can seep through causing the basement to have water. These drains catch the water and slowly drains it into the ground below the slab.
thx.
Where I live we have the same thing but they are connected to a sump and when it fills it will pump it over to sewer.
Code might be different in the area this video was recorded in but where I work we would have needed to use a 3"x4" bushing inside a 4" fernco connecting to that cast iron with a sheer band around the fernco.
Could they have used an air admittance valve?
The cast iron pipe moves at 5:05
Why does that matter? Wouldn't any pipe move somewhat when being worked on? Genuinely curious.
Garrett it turned in the hub to much not good
@@gjones963 That movement indicates that old style lead joint is deffo leaking at some point in the near future
First off im surprised they had no shrinkage dry-fitting and gluing that whole layout.
Second, why didn't they remove the cast iron all the way to the hub and use a soil pipe adapter?
Why would anyone be trashing her for being inquisitive? She's young, prob never been around things like that before and its probably the first house of her own! "A wise man didn't get wise by not asking questions!" Now.....gather your insecure selves and be gone! And have a great day while you're there!😀👍
No such thing as a stupid question.
Or it's scripted you idiots
Ken Hurlburt there I stupid question. I tell my customer the only stupid question is the one you don't ask
Whos trashing her? I thought it was awesome she asks all those questions while her husband just sat back and smiled. A women who is always willing to learn something that normally men do is awesome. Wish more females were like her.
Of course its scripted but hey questions are good. Most people who are not plumbers don't know what the vent or trap do.
I've always used a Sawzall with a rough diamond blade on cast iron pipe. That grinder with the diamond blade looks way faster.
Harder to get underneath the pipe with it though. I usually just use the diamond grit sawzall blades, then you don't have to dig around the pipe so much
4:17, seriously?
Totally.
Came here to find someone else that noticed this finger roulette!!! LOL
When you're a pro, you're a pro.
And no guard on the grinder.
After a full day of work your piping is done.
No backwater valve needed?
I was wondering the same
They are not close to the main line so it would not matter
Thats such an easy build considering the main pipe to the sewer is under ground. What if it exits the house 4 feet above the finish slab.? Have to use a sewage ejector pump and that requires a lot more work
That's what we had done; went with a Liberty pump basin, with toilet, lav stubs, floor drain, util sink, $5K and some change. More work because cutting into concrete floor, yes, so we kept area to minimum, no shower.
Are the lavatory and toilet two different things?
+MKRM27 in the UK, toilet & lav are used interchangably. in the US, a lav is a bathroom sink.
Same thing*
bgregg55
In North America yes, toilet and water closet are the same, lavatory is the same as a sink.
@@bgregg55 When I first heard lavatory in the Monty Python Lumberjack song, I thought it was a species of tree, since we rarely use the term lavatory in the US in everyday speech. The British accent makes "lavatory" sound like "lavatree".
I wonder what the last calibration date was on his " hose clamp torque wrench" .....lol
I kind of like the sound of gurgling that comes from unventeted pipes.
You might like the sound, but no one will like the smell of the sewer gasses. Even if you have no sense of smell, it is a fire hazard and a health hazard to let these gases in the house.