It's nice that you have sourced a good genuine E type motor but I'd have probably cheated and used an XJ6 motor as they are basically identical, far cheaper and more well developed- fewer problems.
You mentioned Whitworth, a word I've not heard since I restored a BSA motorcycle in the early 60's. Many people think that anything that comes from Europe is metric.
If you REALLY want to turn the engine over then best use the crank bolt at the forward end of the engine. Remove all the spark plugs, ensuring that the 'trough' inbetween the camshafts where the spark plug live is spotless to prevent ingress of dirt. I would wager that if you had removed the spark plugs, sprayed oil into the cylinders you would have turned the engine no problem....maybe....unless it was all a bit dry in there!!
Alloy head cast block! i have heard of this job being done in situ and it wouldnt separate. They did up the head to a hoist and lifted with a few bangs, used a lot of penetrene and left it hanging over the weekend - On monday it hadn't done anything. Think they heated it up with the Roxy for success.
I served my apprenticeship with Jaguar in the early to mid-80s ... hated every minute of it. Spent many hours fixing oil leaks - front seal, rear seal, etc. - which would only return due to poor engineering. We had endless cars coming in with AT gearbox problems, blown head gaskets (battled to get the head off, even with special tools - residue and corrosion build up between the stud and head, this forms a wedge when one tries to remove the head making it extremely difficult to remove in some cases), worn engines due to flooding auto chokes, PS leaks, electrical problems, fuel fires on the XJS. Disaster cars! Luckily you don't have cracks between cylinders.
My brother was mechanic at British-Leyland dealer back in 1970s. They method they used for removing XKE heads, which were always a pain in the neck, was: Unbolt everything holding head on, attach hoist to head, jack up front of car about 3ft, go home. The next morning when they walked in the the front wheels of car were on the ground and head was swinging slowly from hoist.
They sure designed engines different didn't they! The timing chain, is very interesting, there is room for improvement, especially in the pistons, that's alot of skirt!, more like a full dress, than skirt! I have heard the 6 us more preferred than the 12cyl. I don't know much about these. Looks like the 12 would offer more power! Yea if I was offered this deal, I'd jumped on it also!
Hi Richard, love to see you working on those engines. just a question ...it is a long shot, but who doesn’t dare, doesn’t … I have a 1967 S1 OTS working perfectly, but the engine in it is a bit to “young” (7E10711-9). I am looking for the engine 7E11043-9 … it is a long shot, but you did not come across this one, did you ? thx
A common problem with the head studs is the electrolytic reaction. We used to heat the studs to a warm enough temperature then apply plus gas and repeat until the fluid did its best to free. On the XJ6 engines, it was common to have the studs break inside the head or at the block. Good to see a well-used engine taken apart.
I can't get my cylinder head to pop loose! Tried all your tricks. Tapped and squirted the Free-All. Tried to tap a thin metal scraper into the seam of the gasket. Still stuck. Advice?
John, hamfisted dead-blow hammer no-go? You can make a plate that threads into the spark plug holes and studs, or bottle Jack the oil filter side. Good times 😁
Amazing craftsmanship! Love this series of videos about renovating your old rusty engine to a timeless piece of elegant art in the engine bay. What a work you and your dad put in! It was at times like surgery, and the attention to all the details, it's very admirable and encouraging for anyone who dreamt of renovating and engine! And what a cool engine that is! You also present the project and explain everything in a very good straightforward way. Thank you for sharing this!
Always remember that with OHC engines, if the head is warped then the cam bores are also warped. The usual fix is to mill the head but that's not the correct way because the cam bores are still warped. Most OHC engines don't have replaceable cam bearings, the aluminum of the cam bores are the bearings. If an engine is started with the head milled and with cam bearing surfaces out of alignment from warping, the cam will create clearance for itself, if it doesn't break in half from binding. This self-boring will cause a reduction in oil pressure. I saw a Honda cam broken in 3 pieces from this. We had a fixture that clamped the head putting pressure in the center of it. Then we put it in an oven and heated it overnight to "warp" it back flat. Sometimes we could save heads this way.
Is tosh a type of stew? If you notice I wrote "most", that doesn't mean "all". I'm speaking from experience having worked for a production engine rebuilder. We built around 6,500 engines a year plus sold around 1,500 engines and heads from Japan. Furthermore, replaceable cam bearings, aka "inserts", or not, the cam bores where the bearings go still warp. The V12s don't have replaceable bearings.
I have taken several Fiat and Lancia twin overhead cam engines apart over the years, both the 8 valve 2.0 litre fitted to the 131 Sport / Racing and the 16 valve version fitted to the Lancia Thema. In all of them the cam bearings are the aluminium of the cylinder head. Remember, whatever a plain bearing is made of, the surfaces are separated by an oil film, that's what they run on and what takes the load, not the metallic surface of the bearings. Any wear of the bearings tends to take place on startup when the oil film is not pressurized. As mindtouchone says, if the head is warped, then so are the cam shaft bores. I have always skimmed the head on any engine as a matter of course when I have had the head off. I then re-assemble the cams in the stripped head (valves out) and check if the cams rotate freely before re-building the rest of the head.
@@mindtouchone A friend of mine used to repair aluminum heads. He build an oven to heat the heads, and had good success putting them in a press to bend them back into close tolerance to flat. Then he was able to skim the head and still have cam bores work like they should. He didn't do this often, he used the method to save rare or expensive heads. Otherwise he just used another core for common stuff.
@MichaelKingsfordGray No there are bearing shells along the head that camshafts rotate in. Bad cam bearings can affect engine oil pressure. But a warped head causing a warp situation for the cams as well is reality. So mindtouchone is correct in writings above. But a proper shop can set up gauges to detect warping that affect cams. So you can find out if they will be in trouble or not.
Holy cow this takes me back , Just stumbled across this video , worked on so many of these buggers years ago , they are both my best loved and most hated engines , the good side can be super smooth and quiet , the bad side , this is really a 4-2 problem the head studs unlike the 3-8 go through the waterways over the years if not had inhibitor the studs rust and get very thin just above the threads where they bolt into the bottom of the block then when turned from the head bolt they snap off deep in the block ( ouch ) if your lucky and the bolt comes out then the thread hole gets filled up with the rust from inside the block as you remove it , oh happy days , by the way don't overheat one as its common for the valve bucket sleeve to come loose in the head then the whole assembly starts lifting up to play with the camshaft . Having said that a well sorted and cared for engine will give years of trouble free service .
I had a Series 1 XJ once where I happened to unscrew one of the long studs that thread down into the bottom of the engine. When I undid it (me not realising at the time) lots of debris fell down into the bottom threaded hole so that when I later put the stud back then only about half of the threads would turn down until the debris blocked further tightening. I didn't reflect on that but put the head back on and finally torqued down the head on the bolts. But too little of the bottom threads could have a grip on that stud so the bottom threads in the block stripped when I kept tightening... There exists a proper repair of such threads that shops can do. But I solved the embarrassment by skipping that stud altogether and plugged the hole in the head water tight.. And the engine held up pretty well despite the loss of one stud. But I was only 20 years old with no resources or past experience so that could explain my DIY workaround.
that's not an E-type engine, its a post British leyland 4.2, probably XJ6, they have the head studs going through the water jackets, you can fix the problem of sheared off head studs due to electrolysis by removing the core plugs and weld T pieces on the end of shorter replacement head studs, you can do that via the core plug holes.
Thanks for the tip on the exhaust stud. This had E-Type oil pan, oil filter housing, manifolds, front pulley, corner brackets, alternator bracket. Actually there was nothing XJ6 on it.
Just to be fair, the car is an E-Type - to which the reference is made. In that context, it is. I cringed a little myself, but if you understand it's the junk engine FROM an E-type, it's fine.
@@RichardMichaelOwen I think your right, its the cam covers that threw me, all the E-types I've worked on had smooth cam covers, maybe its a later engine, definitely an E-type sump there, also the two I worked on were both 3.8's, hopefully the head stubs wont be going through the water jackets on this engine.
Holy shit you really beat the shit out of that cilinder head. I saw that one exhaust stud was completely bend and saw that a part of Aluminium was hit flat next to the stud.
Back in the early seventies I used to buy and sell cars and somebody had a Jaguar for sale out in the middle of nowhere I went to pick it up for $600 it was an XKE with that long back on it a big front and the damn thing even ran I got at home cleaned it up and I think I sold it for over 2,000 too bad I didn't hold on to it selling for 200,000 stinking first guy looked at it bought
Really miss those days. Bought my '63 Austin Healy 3000 in '67 for $1200. At that time the parts manager at the MG dealer where I bought the car drove a '61 XKE. He let me take at one day when my car was being serviced. I fell in love! When he decided to sell it (because his dress shoes wouldn't fix under the dash!) I said I would buy it. He refused to sell it to me because I couldn't afford to maintain it properly.
Yeah, it's easy to work on that engine where it sits, but they sure are a pain to get to when they're in the car. I still think the Jaguar XKE is the most beautiful car ever built. When I was in college, I drove an MG Midget. What an unreliable car (mostly electrical)! I eventually traded it for a nice Chrysler Cordoba.
Hitting the roads long before the V12 era, E-type Jags had a 3.8 litre DOHC straight six, later increased to 4.2 litre. How fast do you want to go anyway??!! Stock standard with triple SU carburettors, the E-Type's maximum speed was 150mph (240 km/hr).
It a 4.2 xk engine which was found in many of jaguars products. The date is the casting date of the cylinder block it may not be the date the engine was assembled or even put into a car.
The updated AJ-16 engine from the '90s revamped it to a 4v/cyl design, which got sold to GM after Ford took over and went on to be the basis for their Atlas 6,5, & 4cyl motors [or at least that's what the internet told me!]
Nice video, but funny how these videos fade out or don't show intake manifold removal-- not easy. On 4.2 engine with studs going into water jacket, makes for a huge job removing head. If it was easy, we would all be pulling heads in our backyard. Try doing this with engine in situ - you will cry. It's all worth it !
@@leonardclutterbuck3257 Why would it make any difference? The mild acid/ acetic acid part is what's important. I WOULD use white vinegar, tho. Hate to waste nice malt vinegar on anything but fish.
@@RichardMichaelOwen The comment was probably meant as "Do you believe you would have been able to turn the engine over if you had removed the spark plugs first, so you didn't have to work against the compression in the cylinders?".
@@sjokomelk the pistons were corroded into the bores: had to bash them out one-by-one. The slight combustion pressure at certain points of the crank would make hardly any difference.
Looks as though is easy to remove the with the engine out, you can hammer it, Mine took a week, using acid around the bolts to free the damn thing. however, it needed a re bore, so had to come out. top clip Richard, thanks wes horton
This engine is in better shape than most of the ones coming through my shop. ALL 4.2 liter blocks crack between 3 and 4. If, after you've cleaned it up you find the crack don't do anything about it, it won't affect anything. Most of the time I get engines people have tried to braze and it really messes up the liners. Replace the stretch bolts holding down the head and check the threaded base for corrosion.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Now that you mention it you Could snug up a hole or two in your belt. What do they call those dudes who wear their 'troosers' on their cheeks? No disrespect intended, just a crack.
If replacing the stretch bolts make sure the clean up the block at the bottom so that debris will not make it into the threads and block part of the thread when installing new studs.
I wonder why the engine is lifted/suspended by only two bolts ( see beginning at 2:16 mark ) instead of the cross brackets on 4 bolts as clearly visible there? Wouldn't those lifting eye's that you installed cause undue sideways stress on the bolt?
Always fun watching the American cousins grappling with English, let alone Brit engines. (I mean that in a good way.) FYI, if it's the word 'eccentric' you say " ESS-entric", when it is actually pronounced "ECK-sentric". A small but important difference. What was the off-camera discussion? "Stand back, son, let me do this otherwise you'll probably break it". :-D
Hoping you mean by the term American is that they are from North American and not the USA?Note the licence plate and province they are from... British Columbia, as in Canada.As for the date thing a lot of bickering about nout!Military dates in most militaries regardless of origin is day Month year.
I still have 3 of these 1 4.2 and 2 3.8 . dual card sets and manifolds, I love and hate Jaguar !!! XK-120,XK-140, XK-150, Series 1 and 2 E-Type . So glad I build and restore the Land Cruiser FJ-40's and 55's.....Less hassle and pain lol ....
If you clean the threads on the head studs before trying to remove it that might help. Also I never seen cam gears set up that way with a eccentric tensioner. I love it.
that was what I was thinking, only ever worked on English diesels like the 3 and 4 cyl Perkins and hated them for studded heads, glad I never had to deal with galvanic corrosion like you did there, just packed with carbon
ive taken 4.2 heads off old jags..its easier if you leave the manifolds on (if they are cast )..I welded lifting eyes to old spark plugs and arranged a pulley system with all the eyes to get a square lift...that cam chain gear setup should be universal..it keeps everything in place ..when you bolt the head back on the valve timing is correct.
So, does anyone make a cam with a modern grind that has better valve control than that ridiculously pointy old thing in there? Don't forget to upgrade the valve springs w/ some beehives!
Was there a reason why you were tapping the head whilst the timing chain was still around the cams? I noticed that the chain and sprockets were off in the next shot. It's lovely to see an old engine coming apart after fifty years. The head gasket leak was probably the reason why the engine had never been refitted?
Amazed, here we have an old Jag engine with lifting eyes between the rocker boxes. Could be there wasn’t a Whitworth hook to fit the existing lifting eyes.
It's much easier to use a pair of bottle jacks between the head and lower rib on the block. Just make sure the head is being jacked straight up and it comes off every time. Sometimes the headgasket causes grief, so make sure that stays flat on the block, or cut it out with tin snips.
Looking at the block there is a bright ring around the cylinder bores. Are the cylinders bored in the block or are replaceable sleeves used? very interesting to watch the disassembly process for that engine.
I noticed the cam lobes have oil holes, this was a Jaguar experiment to quiet the engine down and those with drilled cam lobes will burn oil quite a bit, to use those cam I would suggest plugging those holes which an be done with aluminum welding rod. They get plenty of oil at the cam bearings.
I'm not drooling, I'm ABSOLUTELY CRINGING!!!!!!!. They way those animals took the head off (and yes, it's a head NOT a fucking deck), is tantamount to criminal damage. Those two shouldn't be allowed near a fine piece of (British) engineering like that. Did it even occur to them that where that stud (that they murdered) was located could have broken off? I doubt it. Absolute fucking wankers. p.s. NOT directed at you 'allen schmitz' , but seemed like a good place to put this comment. Regards Mark in the UK
Very nice. I never saw one apart before. English has a terrible reputation, al least for automotive engines. This one seems really well designed. Beautiful.
You whack and bend manifold bolts, and put a bolt inside a hole and whack it?. You absolute butcher!. There were plenty of other places to put a drift in order to get that head off.
So RUclips viewers, Taffy7hfa has referred to this Jaguar engine as "built to last engineering that modern engines have mostly lost." When I responded that, "I have 263,000+ miles (421648.128km) on my humble little 2000 Toyota RAV4. If you somehow think that Jaguars are known for longevity, then you should buy one." I want everyone to understand that I have a huge place in my heart for Jaguar's enduring style and elegance, but will always find their lack of reliability damn near comical. So, in the time that I have had my little RAV4 which I have dubbed the roller-skate due to it's short wheelbase and huge in comparison tires. It really does bring back memories of the 1970s roller discos. But, in spite of it's rather pedestrian styling it has gone over 260,000 miles and I have been stuck on the side of the road only twice in a 19 year old car that has never had an engine rebuild. Once was because a rodent had chewed through a wire (a hazard of mountain living) and the other time around 250,000 miles, the rubber core of the harmonic dampener finally gave way and the accessory belt quit turning. So this is the Jaguar/Toyota challenge. Tell me your Toyota and Jaguar breakdown or longevity stories. Here are the first non-advertisement ratings of Jaguars I already found a few reviews of reliability for the Jags. It has not been very promising to begin with. www.osv.ltd.uk/how-reliable-are-jaguar/ cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/jaguar/f-pace/reliability cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/jaguar/xf/reliability repairpal.com/reliability/jaguar www.quora.com/Are-Jaguars-reliable-cars www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/jaguar.html www.cheatsheet.com/automobiles/when-reliability-ratings-actually-dont-matter-to-car-buyers.html/ www.latimes.com/business/autos/la-fi-hy-jaguar-new-car-warranties-20150901-story.html I did find this article that says that Jaguar just shot to the top of the top of the J.D. Power reliability rating. I have always felt that their scoring was a bit dubious and favored U.S. brands whereas I always felt better about the Consumer Reports ratings. But, still this is a major achievement for Jaguar to finally get there and I admire that. But I digress, we are talking about vintage Jags as being reliable. So that was Jaguar, let's look at Toyota. www.autonews.com/article/20181029/OEM01/181029756/why-toyota-rules-the-reliability-roost www.consumerreports.org/car-reliability-owner-satisfaction/10-best-cars-to-get-to-200000-miles-and-beyond/ cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/best-toyota-cars www.jdpower.com/Cars/2018/Toyota/RAV4 www.autotrader.com/car-shopping/buying-used-car-why-does-everyone-recommend-honda--244178 autoweek.com/article/car-news/lexus-toyota-top-latest-consumer-reports-reliability-survey www.cheatsheet.com/money-career/most-reliable-cars-decade-according-consumer-reports.html/ www.usatoday.com/story/money/cars/2017/10/19/consumer-reports-toyota-tops-reliability-and-cadillac-last/777807001/ www.chron.com/technology/businessinsider/article/Here-are-the-8-most-reliable-car-brands-in-10283450.php#photo-14753929 repairpal.com/reliability/toyota/rav4 I will agree however, that the move to add a lot of plastic under the hood that will become brittle over time is frustrating, but our engines in general are by far more reliable than they ever had been and Toyota has been leading the charge for the vast majority of the past 50 years or so. My 19 year old RAV4 has always passed it's emissions tests, starts every time and it runs remarkably smoothly still. I also discovered when I looked at the dash that I had actually passed 263,000 miles right after I claimed only 262,000. Oops, I guess I wasn't too worried and don't look that often.
and a look back at my 1970 1600 engine in my Datsun truck and think, 250,000 miles and still going and that jag. engine had a 50 year rest -250,000 miles..yes that e-type 4.2 will run just like new for those sunday drives and six days rest in the garage...lol'.
British cars of that era reliable!???!! what??? I've owned MG's, TVR's, Jags, Triumphs, etc. really like them but they are horrible with respect to quality and reliability. Meant for infrequent sunny day joyriding...
Thank you so much for showing this. I will watch the complete series during the next few days, as time permits. An advice about your voice: try to speak as if you are talking to someone. Your tone sometimes comes out as if you are doing a presentation (higher pitch at the end of the sentence), which spoils a bit the effect of being there with you as you go about discovering the engine and showing us. I suggest you imagine you are talking and explaining things to someone who is actually there, and not talking to a camera or an audience. (Oh, I see someone already mentioned this, it seems to be called "uptalk", or "ending every sentence with a question". I'll leave this here anyway...) Thanks again, really enjoyed this video. My first of your channel.
This reminds me of my XJ6 4,2 where I had to take the cylinder head off. It was in the year 1988. I struggled two days with the head, but I finally made it. I did this with the the engine installed, so I was not supported by the weight of the block hanging under the head. I sure enjoyed my beer after it was off. Question to the Jaguar guys: What is wrong about screws to fix the head? Screws work on Mercedes, BMWs, Audis, and I am sure they would work on Jaguars, too.
Those long studs are kind of long screws. There probably exist some justification for why they threaded the bolts to the bottom of the block. One could be that the long studs will have some flex so that the head is held down in a different way in the face of thermal expansion than if the threads would be on top of the block ? Well I know nothing about the proper answer.
back in the day a lot of people actually swapped in a pontiac straight 6 into the E-types... never seen such a hybrid but it had to be cheaper then original if you didn't give a fig about original parts. Not to mention, there was NO WAY you could change a clutch in the E-type without removing the engine and trans as a unit! Some people tried quick and dirty tricks like actually cutting the sheet metal from the floor transmission hump to get it out - then weld it all back together. An amazing car, if you could afford 1 for spare as there was no way you could own an E-type as your only driver and still hope to keep steady employment. Between the Lucas electrics (truly terrible and unreliable fuel pumps, distributor, starter, you name it really) and the rest of the bugs (Jaguars never produced enough of them to ever get the bugs out) the unreliability was just as legendary as the car's beautiful styling and performance (when it worked, of course).
Actually the fuel pumps were SU, not Lucas. I think having a relatively small country with a very good public transport system made reliability a lesser factor to the domestic market. If your Jagger or Humber didn't start, grab the umbrella and walk to the corner for the bus. IN the US, south west, or northern states, a breakdown on the road might mean you could die. Serious reliability came from that situation.
My feedback was constructive. I only said that you could have cracked the head when hammering the stud on the corner of the head. My comment seems to have disappeared. :(
Nothing good was coming out of that top thread. This video is now getting more views then I ever imagined and the comments about me and my dad bending a few 50 cent studs was unwarranted.
That is the 16 of January 1969. Jaguar did not make much of a change in that engine until the late 80’s early 90’s. my father was a mechanic and owned a series 2 Daimler and 2 Daimler sovereign XJ6’s if my memory serves me correctly all of them had the 4.2 engines but all basically the same as your 4.2 engine.
Don't resurface the aluminum head,,,,, Years ago working at a machine shop we resurfaced one and then had to redo all the installed hight of the valves and springs & Line hone the Cam bearings. I guess there is a lot of flex in the aluminum head and it is acceptable for a large gap in the center for head gasket fitting. I will always remember that Because it was my manager that did it and he was the one sweating to fix it!
From the rust around one of those studs, my guess is that the motor was parked because of a blown head gasket leaking coolant. When the owner saw the estimate for fixing it, that was the end.
being in Canada, you have probably never heard of very popular technique in the states, it's called, Hot Tanking, an hour or three, in 200 degree water, does wonders !
I would think using hydraulic pressure to lift the head would save a lot of misery. Remove the cans, then pump oil down into the spark plug holes. I have removed one Jaguar head in my life, and I well remember what a pain in the ass it was. I used a hoist to lift the head, so much so I had the front wheels off the ground. After sitting over night, I ended up driving a wedge between the block and head in various places, it was not pretty. But looking back with 50 years experience, there has got to be a better way. If I worked on these much at all, I'd devise a way to remove the head with little or no sweat. I'd say a manifold that went to every plug, and a large container of oil, used oil would work fine, and a damn good hydraulic pump would push it right off. At least it'd crack the "seal". Also, wouldn't removing the studs make sense? That one job made me hate Jaguar from then on. Air pressure might do the trick also, if applied to all cylinders at once. 130 psi over that area is a lot of force. Explosives come to mind also, six blasting caps, leave the acorn nuts, by the way, that's what they're called, on loose so the head doesn't end up in the next county. I don't know why I am watching this video.. I'm gonna stop now before you go any further, at 8:07. Thank God I don't have to work on Jaguar.
I like where you are coming from, there is actually a method to lever the studs against the plug holes. But as you see a few good blows gets these heads loose.
I used to do hobby work involving pulling heads of the two stroke 750cc 3-cylinder Suzuki engines that often were severely stuck. Various folklore developed where the more successful involved looking at the situation from a zen wisdom point of view. Letting time do work. Add some rust penetrating oil. Wait, play favourite music, enjoy other aspects of life. Eventually one day things begin to move. Some gave up early and used force that destroyed engine blocks, etc. Brute forced methods to saw off entire cylinder barrels, etc.
It's nice that you have sourced a good genuine E type motor but I'd have probably cheated and used an XJ6 motor as they are basically identical, far cheaper and more well developed- fewer problems.
You mentioned Whitworth, a word I've not heard since I restored a BSA motorcycle in the early 60's. Many people think that anything that comes from Europe is metric.
had a bsa 175 jjunk too
If you REALLY want to turn the engine over then best use the crank bolt at the forward end of the engine. Remove all the spark plugs, ensuring that the 'trough' inbetween the camshafts where the spark plug live is spotless to prevent ingress of dirt. I would wager that if you had removed the spark plugs, sprayed oil into the cylinders you would have turned the engine no problem....maybe....unless it was all a bit dry in there!!
Malcom, thanks for watching. I soaked for a week or more, pounded first cylinder with 2x4, that broke so I made a crude hardwood punch.
Alloy head cast block! i have heard of this job being done in situ and it wouldnt separate. They did up the head to a hoist and lifted with a few bangs, used a lot of penetrene and left it hanging over the weekend - On monday it hadn't done anything. Think they heated it up with the Roxy for success.
Borg and Beck clutch cover 76588/21
for a Jaguar XKE 4.2, S Type, MKX 4.2, 420G
from google.
I served my apprenticeship with Jaguar in the early to mid-80s ... hated every minute of it. Spent many hours fixing oil leaks - front seal, rear seal, etc. - which would only return due to poor engineering. We had endless cars coming in with AT gearbox problems, blown head gaskets (battled to get the head off, even with special tools - residue and corrosion build up between the stud and head, this forms a wedge when one tries to remove the head making it extremely difficult to remove in some cases), worn engines due to flooding auto chokes, PS leaks, electrical problems, fuel fires on the XJS. Disaster cars! Luckily you don't have cracks between cylinders.
Oh man. Not the best era for Jaguar. Great for no one except the shop owner.
My brother was mechanic at British-Leyland dealer back in 1970s. They method they used for removing XKE heads, which were always a pain in the neck, was: Unbolt everything holding head on, attach hoist to head, jack up front of car about 3ft, go home. The next morning when they walked in the the front wheels of car were on the ground and head was swinging slowly from hoist.
no way! That's a miracle right there.
yeah, thats the way we did it,
Tristars main (Rover/Jag) dealer late 80's ...nasty
They sure designed engines different didn't they! The timing chain, is very interesting, there is room for improvement, especially in the pistons, that's alot of skirt!, more like a full dress, than skirt! I have heard the 6 us more preferred than the 12cyl. I don't know much about these. Looks like the 12 would offer more power! Yea if I was offered this deal, I'd jumped on it also!
I would rebuild a series one of these just to put in my living room, probably one of the most beautiful engines ever.
Hi Richard, love to see you working on those engines. just a question ...it is a long shot, but who doesn’t dare, doesn’t … I have a 1967 S1 OTS working perfectly, but the engine in it is a bit to “young” (7E10711-9). I am looking for the engine 7E11043-9 … it is a long shot, but you did not come across this one, did you ? thx
P.S. Take a close look. These are hemi pistons and heads. That's why they gave Vettes so much trouble.
Prising against flywheel ring gear teeth with screwdriver, to turn stuck engine, doesn't seem a healthy idea to me. Interesting video though.
The cylinder head rebuild is a nightmare
A common problem with the head studs is the electrolytic reaction. We used to heat the studs to a warm enough temperature then apply plus gas and repeat until the fluid did its best to free. On the XJ6 engines, it was common to have the studs break inside the head or at the block. Good to see a well-used engine taken apart.
I can't get my cylinder head to pop loose! Tried all your tricks. Tapped and squirted the Free-All. Tried to tap a thin metal scraper into the seam of the gasket. Still stuck. Advice?
John, hamfisted dead-blow hammer no-go? You can make a plate that threads into the spark plug holes and studs, or bottle Jack the oil filter side. Good times 😁
When these are right and tuned up, they're great and sound glorious.
Amazing craftsmanship! Love this series of videos about renovating your old rusty engine to a timeless piece of elegant art in the engine bay. What a work you and your dad put in! It was at times like surgery, and the attention to all the details, it's very admirable and encouraging for anyone who dreamt of renovating and engine! And what a cool engine that is! You also present the project and explain everything in a very good straightforward way. Thank you for sharing this!
I love this channel. I have done all this 30 years ago.
Always remember that with OHC engines, if the head is warped then the cam bores are also warped. The usual fix is to mill the head but that's not the correct way because the cam bores are still warped. Most OHC engines don't have replaceable cam bearings, the aluminum of the cam bores are the bearings. If an engine is started with the head milled and with cam bearing surfaces out of alignment from warping, the cam will create clearance for itself, if it doesn't break in half from binding. This self-boring will cause a reduction in oil pressure. I saw a Honda cam broken in 3 pieces from this. We had a fixture that clamped the head putting pressure in the center of it. Then we put it in an oven and heated it overnight to "warp" it back flat. Sometimes we could save heads this way.
Is tosh a type of stew? If you notice I wrote "most", that doesn't mean "all". I'm speaking from experience having worked for a production engine rebuilder. We built around 6,500 engines a year plus sold around 1,500 engines and heads from Japan. Furthermore, replaceable cam bearings, aka "inserts", or not, the cam bores where the bearings go still warp. The V12s don't have replaceable bearings.
You're right, I just did a cylinder head, previous guys just skimmed the warped head and about 10,000km later it had problems.
I have taken several Fiat and Lancia twin overhead cam engines apart over the years, both the 8 valve 2.0 litre fitted to the 131 Sport / Racing and the 16 valve version fitted to the Lancia Thema. In all of them the cam bearings are the aluminium of the cylinder head. Remember, whatever a plain bearing is made of, the surfaces are separated by an oil film, that's what they run on and what takes the load, not the metallic surface of the bearings. Any wear of the bearings tends to take place on startup when the oil film is not pressurized. As mindtouchone says, if the head is warped, then so are the cam shaft bores. I have always skimmed the head on any engine as a matter of course when I have had the head off. I then re-assemble the cams in the stripped head (valves out) and check if the cams rotate freely before re-building the rest of the head.
@@mindtouchone A friend of mine used to repair aluminum heads. He build an oven to heat the heads, and had good success putting them in a press to bend them back into close tolerance to flat. Then he was able to skim the head and still have cam bores work like they should. He didn't do this often, he used the method to save rare or expensive heads. Otherwise he just used another core for common stuff.
@MichaelKingsfordGray No there are bearing shells along the head that camshafts rotate in. Bad cam bearings can affect engine oil pressure.
But a warped head causing a warp situation for the cams as well is reality. So mindtouchone is correct in writings above. But a proper shop can set up gauges to detect warping that affect cams. So you can find out if they will be in trouble or not.
Holy cow this takes me back , Just stumbled across this video , worked on so many of these buggers years ago , they are both my best loved and most hated engines , the good side can be super smooth and quiet , the bad side , this is really a 4-2 problem the head studs unlike the 3-8 go through the waterways over the years if not had inhibitor the studs rust and get very thin just above the threads where they bolt into the bottom of the block then when turned from the head bolt they snap off deep in the block ( ouch ) if your lucky and the bolt comes out then the thread hole gets filled up with the rust from inside the block as you remove it , oh happy days , by the way don't overheat one as its common for the valve bucket sleeve to come loose in the head then the whole assembly starts lifting up to play with the camshaft . Having said that a well sorted and cared for engine will give years of trouble free service .
I had a Series 1 XJ once where I happened to unscrew one of the long studs that thread down into the bottom of the engine. When I undid it (me not realising at the time) lots of debris fell down into the bottom threaded hole so that when I later put the stud back then only about half of the threads would turn down until the debris blocked further tightening. I didn't reflect on that but put the head back on and finally torqued down the head on the bolts. But too little of the bottom threads could have a grip on that stud so the bottom threads in the block stripped when I kept tightening... There exists a proper repair of such threads that shops can do. But I solved the embarrassment by skipping that stud altogether and plugged the hole in the head water tight.. And the engine held up pretty well despite the loss of one stud. But I was only 20 years old with no resources or past experience so that could explain my DIY workaround.
48 minutes later, and pop doin all the work! go pop!
saw that number one cylinder stud (manifold stud) go !
Pops: The Expert!
I think it was number 6 cylinder stud (rear pot)
that's not an E-type engine, its a post British leyland 4.2, probably XJ6, they have the head studs going through the water jackets, you can fix the problem of sheared off head studs due to electrolysis by removing the core plugs and weld T pieces on the end of shorter replacement head studs, you can do that via the core plug holes.
Thanks for the tip on the exhaust stud. This had E-Type oil pan, oil filter housing, manifolds, front pulley, corner brackets, alternator bracket. Actually there was nothing XJ6 on it.
Just to be fair, the car is an E-Type - to which the reference is made. In that context, it is. I cringed a little myself, but if you understand it's the junk engine FROM an E-type, it's fine.
@@RichardMichaelOwen I think your right, its the cam covers that threw me, all the E-types I've worked on had smooth cam covers, maybe its a later engine, definitely an E-type sump there, also the two I worked on were both 3.8's, hopefully the head stubs wont be going through the water jackets on this engine.
Did you watch the video? The engine is from 69 so how would that be pre BL? You know that it's very easy to change cam covers no?
@Gen Me, the 7R engine number refers to an E-Type engine from a Ser 2 car.
Holy shit you really beat the shit out of that cilinder head. I saw that one exhaust stud was completely bend and saw that a part of Aluminium was hit flat next to the stud.
Yeah it survived. I really went hard on it for the video.
Back in the early seventies I used to buy and sell cars and somebody had a Jaguar for sale out in the middle of nowhere I went to pick it up for $600 it was an XKE with that long back on it a big front and the damn thing even ran I got at home cleaned it up and I think I sold it for over 2,000 too bad I didn't hold on to it selling for 200,000 stinking first guy looked at it bought
Really miss those days. Bought my '63 Austin Healy 3000 in '67 for $1200. At that time the parts manager at the MG dealer where I bought the car drove a '61 XKE. He let me take at one day when my car was being serviced. I fell in love! When he decided to sell it (because his dress shoes wouldn't fix under the dash!) I said I would buy it. He refused to sell it to me because I couldn't afford to maintain it properly.
There are lots more out there
Really interesting as I am about to do same exercise thanks Richard looking forward to more
You can't beat having your dad to help you, you're so very fortunate.
Yeah, it's easy to work on that engine where it sits, but they sure are a pain to get to when they're in the car. I still think the Jaguar XKE is the most beautiful car ever built. When I was in college, I drove an MG Midget. What an unreliable car (mostly electrical)! I eventually traded it for a nice Chrysler Cordoba.
Did it have rich Corinthian leather?
Wait.. where are the other six pistons?
Hitting the roads long before the V12 era, E-type Jags had a 3.8 litre DOHC straight six, later increased to 4.2 litre. How fast do you want to go anyway??!! Stock standard with triple SU carburettors, the E-Type's maximum speed was 150mph (240 km/hr).
A lot easier to turn the engine if you remove the plugs first.
It a 4.2 xk engine which was found in many of jaguars products.
The date is the casting date of the cylinder block it may not be the date the engine was assembled or even put into a car.
The updated AJ-16 engine from the '90s revamped it to a 4v/cyl design, which got sold to GM after Ford took over and went on to be the basis for their Atlas 6,5, & 4cyl motors [or at least that's what the internet told me!]
I have a 3 1/2 Litre from a Mk 9 with the lovely smooth cam covers.
Going to watch these all again in case I missed something, better than TV, great work
Brings back memories of having to make a cam chain tensioner tool to slacken the chains.
If it can be rebuilt it's not junk,
this video reasured me to stay away from anything english made. ill stick to 2jz's
The recent video of Stephan Papadakis stripping down a 2JZ is great. Looks like a lovely engine.
Nice video, but funny how these videos fade out or don't show intake manifold removal-- not easy. On 4.2 engine with studs going into water jacket, makes for a huge job removing head. If it was easy, we would all be pulling heads in our backyard. Try doing this with engine in situ - you will cry. It's all worth it !
Nice looking Midgets! I have a ‘78 myself.
TIP, remove the spark plugs, it will make turning the engine over a lot easier, (no spark plugs - no compression.
Yeah no kidding! LOL
I have about 10 engines in my garage series 1 and series 2 and mk10 never been raced . I use to use a triumph 2500 distributor would sell them ?
You have a new subscriber because of this video! I will try to catch up with your work.
John, great to have you along
NIce too see an mg in a video looks very clean
wow thats a tall boi
we always put vinegar on the studs and leave it hanging over night and when in the morning the head would be off
must be white vinegar
@@leonardclutterbuck3257 Why would it make any difference? The mild acid/ acetic acid part is what's important. I WOULD use white vinegar, tho. Hate to waste nice malt vinegar on anything but fish.
Why is everything studs? Motor looks like a porcupine.
Why did you try turning the engine with the plugs in
You can turn an engine with the plugs in, it just takes a little more force.
@@RichardMichaelOwen The comment was probably meant as "Do you believe you would have been able to turn the engine over if you had removed the spark plugs first, so you didn't have to work against the compression in the cylinders?".
@@sjokomelk the pistons were corroded into the bores: had to bash them out one-by-one. The slight combustion pressure at certain points of the crank would make hardly any difference.
@@RichardMichaelOwen I saw that in your other video later. That things wouldn't have moved an inch with or without the spark plugs :-D
Because he thinks like a British Anglophile
I just linked this to a 3.8 for sale on Bring a Trailer. should bring some views!
Awesome thanks!
Cool video. Reminds me of my wrench turning days. Time to cook.
Me too. My elbows creaked,just seeing that truck engine starter! In an Etype you have to hold starter by the end with one hand !
Is that a strap around the camshaft you're using to lift the head?
Looks as though is easy to remove the with the engine out, you can hammer it, Mine took a week, using acid around the bolts to free the damn thing. however, it needed a re bore, so had to come out. top clip Richard, thanks wes horton
Hi 👋 Fantastic seeing someone saving an iconic good old British engine 👍🏻 Looking forward to catching upon on this one 😄 Thanks Stevie 🇬🇧😁
Great to have you along! Thanks for watching
Nice Motor, nice video, the car is shreaded? Thanks
This engine is in better shape than most of the ones coming through my shop. ALL 4.2 liter blocks crack between 3 and 4. If, after you've cleaned it up you find the crack don't do anything about it, it won't affect anything. Most of the time I get engines people have tried to braze and it really messes up the liners. Replace the stretch bolts holding down the head and check the threaded base for corrosion.
Thanks for the comments on the crack, very interesting. If I left a crack in video I'd be getting a lot of comments.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Now that you mention it you Could snug up a hole or two in your belt. What do they call those dudes who wear their 'troosers' on their cheeks? No disrespect intended, just a crack.
If replacing the stretch bolts make sure the clean up the block at the bottom so that debris will not make it into the threads and block part of the thread when installing new studs.
I wonder why the engine is lifted/suspended by only two bolts ( see beginning at 2:16 mark ) instead of the cross brackets on 4 bolts as clearly visible there? Wouldn't those lifting eye's that you installed cause undue sideways stress on the bolt?
Those are the head studs, they are fine because I really locked them down tight. And they are being replaced too.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Asked and answered,..Thanks for the reply.
I was surprised how dry and rusty it was inside. Looks like it's been in a farmyard for the last 50yrs.
I burnt my forehead by trying to fix a Daimler V8 oil leak MY FIRST EXPERIENCE of competition engines
Always fun watching the American cousins grappling with English, let alone Brit engines. (I mean that in a good way.)
FYI, if it's the word 'eccentric' you say " ESS-entric", when it is actually pronounced "ECK-sentric".
A small but important difference.
What was the off-camera discussion?
"Stand back, son, let me do this otherwise you'll probably break it".
:-D
Looking forward to see part 2
Hoping you mean by the term American is that they are from North American and not the USA?Note the licence plate and province they are from... British Columbia, as in Canada.As for the date thing a lot of bickering about nout!Military dates in most militaries regardless of origin is day Month year.
I still have 3 of these 1 4.2 and 2 3.8 . dual card sets and manifolds, I love and hate Jaguar !!! XK-120,XK-140, XK-150, Series 1 and 2 E-Type . So glad I build and restore the Land Cruiser FJ-40's and 55's.....Less hassle and pain lol ....
If you clean the threads on the head studs before trying to remove it that might help.
Also I never seen cam gears set up that way with a eccentric tensioner. I love it.
that was what I was thinking, only ever worked on English diesels like the 3 and 4 cyl Perkins and hated them for studded heads, glad I never had to deal with galvanic corrosion like you did there, just packed with carbon
ive taken 4.2 heads off old jags..its easier if you leave the manifolds on (if they are cast )..I welded lifting eyes to old spark plugs and arranged a pulley system with all the eyes to get a square lift...that cam chain gear setup should be universal..it keeps everything in place ..when you bolt the head back on the valve timing is correct.
you heard of pb blaster.&,how about take the plugs ot,ie,compresion.??.why jack it all the way up,get it on the ground,its alloy.,
So, does anyone make a cam with a modern grind that has better valve control than that ridiculously pointy old thing in there? Don't forget to upgrade the valve springs w/ some beehives!
Was there a reason why you were tapping the head whilst the timing chain was still around the cams? I noticed that the chain and sprockets were off in the next shot. It's lovely to see an old engine coming apart after fifty years. The head gasket leak was probably the reason why the engine had never been refitted?
Looks better then mine!
Amazed, here we have an old Jag engine with lifting eyes between the rocker boxes.
Could be there wasn’t a Whitworth hook to fit the existing lifting eyes.
It's much easier to use a pair of bottle jacks between the head and lower rib on the block. Just make sure the head is being jacked straight up and it comes off every time. Sometimes the headgasket causes grief, so make sure that stays flat on the block, or cut it out with tin snips.
Looking at the block there is a bright ring around the cylinder bores. Are the cylinders bored in the block or are replaceable sleeves used? very interesting to watch the disassembly process for that engine.
Hi Raymond. The block has sleeves that can be replaced or bored 0.020
@@RichardMichaelOwen Thank you
I noticed the cam lobes have oil holes, this was a Jaguar experiment to quiet the engine down and those with drilled cam lobes will burn oil quite a bit, to use those cam I would suggest plugging those holes which an be done with aluminum welding rod. They get plenty of oil at the cam bearings.
All the english viewers are drooling....only in america!
I'm not drooling, I'm ABSOLUTELY CRINGING!!!!!!!.
They way those animals took the head off (and yes, it's a head NOT a fucking deck), is tantamount to criminal damage. Those two shouldn't be allowed near a fine piece of (British) engineering like that. Did it even occur to them that where that stud (that they murdered) was located could have broken off? I doubt it. Absolute fucking wankers.
p.s. NOT directed at you 'allen schmitz' , but seemed like a good place to put this comment.
Regards Mark in the UK
Put the spark plugs before you try to turn it over next time. Spray some Rost off in there. Cast iron rings will rust to the cylinder walls.
Very nice. I never saw one apart before. English has a terrible reputation, al least for automotive engines. This one seems really well designed. Beautiful.
You whack and bend manifold bolts, and put a bolt inside a hole and whack it?. You absolute butcher!. There were plenty of other places to put a drift in order to get that head off.
Really went for it on purpose, don't want to keep the viewers waiting 😊
@@RichardMichaelOwen LOL
no stakedown tappet brackets!
So RUclips viewers, Taffy7hfa has referred to this Jaguar engine as "built to last engineering that modern engines have mostly lost." When I responded that, "I have 263,000+ miles (421648.128km) on my humble little 2000 Toyota RAV4. If you somehow think that Jaguars are known for longevity, then you should buy one." I want everyone to understand that I have a huge place in my heart for Jaguar's enduring style and elegance, but will always find their lack of reliability damn near comical. So, in the time that I have had my little RAV4 which I have dubbed the roller-skate due to it's short wheelbase and huge in comparison tires. It really does bring back memories of the 1970s roller discos. But, in spite of it's rather pedestrian styling it has gone over 260,000 miles and I have been stuck on the side of the road only twice in a 19 year old car that has never had an engine rebuild. Once was because a rodent had chewed through a wire (a hazard of mountain living) and the other time around 250,000 miles, the rubber core of the harmonic dampener finally gave way and the accessory belt quit turning. So this is the Jaguar/Toyota challenge. Tell me your Toyota and Jaguar breakdown or longevity stories.
Here are the first non-advertisement ratings of Jaguars
I already found a few reviews of reliability for the Jags. It has not been very promising to begin with. www.osv.ltd.uk/how-reliable-are-jaguar/
cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/jaguar/f-pace/reliability
cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/jaguar/xf/reliability
repairpal.com/reliability/jaguar
www.quora.com/Are-Jaguars-reliable-cars
www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/jaguar.html
www.cheatsheet.com/automobiles/when-reliability-ratings-actually-dont-matter-to-car-buyers.html/
www.latimes.com/business/autos/la-fi-hy-jaguar-new-car-warranties-20150901-story.html
I did find this article that says that Jaguar just shot to the top of the top of the J.D. Power reliability rating. I have always felt that their scoring was a bit dubious and favored U.S. brands whereas I always felt better about the Consumer Reports ratings. But, still this is a major achievement for Jaguar to finally get there and I admire that. But I digress, we are talking about vintage Jags as being reliable.
So that was Jaguar, let's look at Toyota.
www.autonews.com/article/20181029/OEM01/181029756/why-toyota-rules-the-reliability-roost
www.consumerreports.org/car-reliability-owner-satisfaction/10-best-cars-to-get-to-200000-miles-and-beyond/
cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/best-toyota-cars
www.jdpower.com/Cars/2018/Toyota/RAV4
www.autotrader.com/car-shopping/buying-used-car-why-does-everyone-recommend-honda--244178
autoweek.com/article/car-news/lexus-toyota-top-latest-consumer-reports-reliability-survey
www.cheatsheet.com/money-career/most-reliable-cars-decade-according-consumer-reports.html/
www.usatoday.com/story/money/cars/2017/10/19/consumer-reports-toyota-tops-reliability-and-cadillac-last/777807001/
www.chron.com/technology/businessinsider/article/Here-are-the-8-most-reliable-car-brands-in-10283450.php#photo-14753929
repairpal.com/reliability/toyota/rav4
I will agree however, that the move to add a lot of plastic under the hood that will become brittle over time is frustrating, but our engines in general are by far more reliable than they ever had been and Toyota has been leading the charge for the vast majority of the past 50 years or so. My 19 year old RAV4 has always passed it's emissions tests, starts every time and it runs remarkably smoothly still. I also discovered when I looked at the dash that I had actually passed 263,000 miles right after I claimed only 262,000. Oops, I guess I wasn't too worried and don't look that often.
and a look back at my 1970 1600 engine in my Datsun truck and think, 250,000 miles and still going and that jag. engine had a 50 year rest -250,000 miles..yes that e-type 4.2 will run just like new for those sunday drives and six days rest in the garage...lol'.
British cars of that era reliable!???!! what??? I've owned MG's, TVR's, Jags, Triumphs, etc. really like them but they are horrible with respect to quality and reliability. Meant for infrequent sunny day joyriding...
@@gfuch111 THATS WHAT i POSTED ALL SO..just a sunday drive toy.
my christ are you boring
I had 312,000 miles on one of my Civics when I sold it, it was still in great shape too!
Thank you so much for showing this. I will watch the complete series during the next few days, as time permits.
An advice about your voice: try to speak as if you are talking to someone. Your tone sometimes comes out as if you are doing a presentation (higher pitch at the end of the sentence), which spoils a bit the effect of being there with you as you go about discovering the engine and showing us. I suggest you imagine you are talking and explaining things to someone who is actually there, and not talking to a camera or an audience. (Oh, I see someone already mentioned this, it seems to be called "uptalk", or "ending every sentence with a question". I'll leave this here anyway...)
Thanks again, really enjoyed this video. My first of your channel.
Nice!!
Is this a Jaguar "E" engine? Sorry still watching the video so you may mention it in the video. O.K., I can see it on the valve cover now.
Wow I passed up a WHOLE car XJ/6 a couple of years ago for $600.00.
I have never owned a Jaguar, however I would like to know about their engines generally. How do you rate this straight six unit??
Way ahead of their time... it was/is a race car engine.
@@taffy7hfa897 I believe the DOHC hemi was developed by Peugot (French) in 1912 although Welch (American) invented the Hemi in 1904!
This reminds me of my XJ6 4,2 where I had to take the cylinder head off. It was in the year 1988. I struggled two days with the head, but I finally made it. I did this with the the engine installed, so I was not supported by the weight of the block hanging under the head. I sure enjoyed my beer after it was off. Question to the Jaguar guys: What is wrong about screws to fix the head? Screws work on Mercedes, BMWs, Audis, and I am sure they would work on Jaguars, too.
Those long studs are kind of long screws. There probably exist some justification for why they threaded the bolts to the bottom of the block. One could be that the long studs will have some flex so that the head is held down in a different way in the face of thermal expansion than if the threads would be on top of the block ? Well I know nothing about the proper answer.
Thank you for sharing, this reminds me of repairing cars 50 years ago. I miss it
back in the day a lot of people actually swapped in a pontiac straight 6 into the E-types... never seen such a hybrid but it had to be cheaper then original if you didn't give a fig about original parts. Not to mention, there was NO WAY you could change a clutch in the E-type without removing the engine and trans as a unit! Some people tried quick and dirty tricks like actually cutting the sheet metal from the floor transmission hump to get it out - then weld it all back together. An amazing car, if you could afford 1 for spare as there was no way you could own an E-type as your only driver and still hope to keep steady employment. Between the Lucas electrics (truly terrible and unreliable fuel pumps, distributor, starter, you name it really) and the rest of the bugs (Jaguars never produced enough of them to ever get the bugs out) the unreliability was just as legendary as the car's beautiful styling and performance (when it worked, of course).
Actually the fuel pumps were SU, not Lucas. I think having a relatively small country with a very good public transport system made reliability a lesser factor to the domestic market. If your Jagger or Humber didn't start, grab the umbrella and walk to the corner for the bus. IN the US, south west, or northern states, a breakdown on the road might mean you could die. Serious reliability came from that situation.
Engine looks to be the same as the one on my old '73 XJ6. Dual Stromberg carbs and all. Those things were hell adjust.
Please leave only constructive feedback, this is a no BS channel. We bashed the cylinder head hard and broke some studs and got away with it.
My feedback was constructive. I only said that you could have cracked the head when hammering the stud on the corner of the head. My comment seems to have disappeared. :(
Nothing good was coming out of that top thread. This video is now getting more views then I ever imagined and the comments about me and my dad bending a few 50 cent studs was unwarranted.
@@RichardMichaelOwen That was some hamfisted shit though.
@@memyself3275 Totally agree, I really went for it like it was my own.
06:29 Even the chain looks fine but to rotate the engine you have to lubricate it first. Then you can try it again.
That is the 16 of January 1969. Jaguar did not make much of a change in that engine until the late 80’s early 90’s. my father was a mechanic and owned a series 2 Daimler and 2 Daimler sovereign XJ6’s if my memory serves me correctly all of them had the 4.2 engines but all basically the same as your 4.2 engine.
This is the first of the long blocks with steam vents and extra cooling passages near cyl 1
ughh,, Good luck getting that head off,,
his finger is stuck in the engine, no wonder it doesn,t work...
Awesome video,love those acorn nuts on the engine,very elegant.
perfect for boost !
Don't resurface the aluminum head,,,,, Years ago working at a machine shop we resurfaced one and then had to redo all the installed hight of the valves and springs & Line hone the Cam bearings. I guess there is a lot of flex in the aluminum head and it is acceptable for a large gap in the center for head gasket fitting. I will always remember that Because it was my manager that did it and he was the one sweating to fix it!
Err, isn't that what machine shops are for?
Hey, could you come out to Colorado and get my 76 XJ12 running?
Yanks use RPMS but do say how many minutes...Whats the point??
This is a fine Etype motor.
I own 2 ‘95 Xj6,great,powerful,reliable motors!
It amazes me how much money people will spend to make a yt vid
What exactly do you mean? This is going in my car
From the rust around one of those studs, my guess is that the motor was parked because of a blown head gasket leaking coolant. When the owner saw the estimate for fixing it, that was the end.
Making dad do all the work, LOL!
Poor old bugger, LOL!
I love the e-type.
for Canada, a grand for that is ok. I lived there and worked in Ontario at various brit resto shops, . you're doing ok.
being in Canada, you have probably never heard of very popular technique in the states, it's called, Hot Tanking, an hour or three, in 200 degree water, does wonders !
Oh yeah! We tanked the crank with the sludge plugs out.
Is that Daisy Red Ryder BB gun at (10:13) registered?
I would think using hydraulic pressure to lift the head would save a lot of misery. Remove the cans, then pump oil down into the spark plug holes. I have removed one Jaguar head in my life, and I well remember what a pain in the ass it was. I used a hoist to lift the head, so much so I had the front wheels off the ground. After sitting over night, I ended up driving a wedge between the block and head in various places, it was not pretty. But looking back with 50 years experience, there has got to be a better way. If I worked on these much at all, I'd devise a way to remove the head with little or no sweat. I'd say a manifold that went to every plug, and a large container of oil, used oil would work fine, and a damn good hydraulic pump would push it right off. At least it'd crack the "seal". Also, wouldn't removing the studs make sense? That one job made me hate Jaguar from then on. Air pressure might do the trick also, if applied to all cylinders at once. 130 psi over that area is a lot of force. Explosives come to mind also, six blasting caps, leave the acorn nuts, by the way, that's what they're called, on loose so the head doesn't end up in the next county.
I don't know why I am watching this video.. I'm gonna stop now before you go any further, at 8:07. Thank God I don't have to work on Jaguar.
I like where you are coming from, there is actually a method to lever the studs against the plug holes. But as you see a few good blows gets these heads loose.
I used to do hobby work involving pulling heads of the two stroke 750cc 3-cylinder Suzuki engines that often were severely stuck. Various folklore developed where the more successful involved looking at the situation from a zen wisdom point of view. Letting time do work. Add some rust penetrating oil. Wait, play favourite music, enjoy other aspects of life. Eventually one day things begin to move. Some gave up early and used force that destroyed engine blocks, etc. Brute forced methods to saw off entire cylinder barrels, etc.
may not be quite as good as new but I bet it runs.