Nice video. I also had my son assist me in removing the engine. I only removed my engine from the top the first time. I reinstalled it from the bottom. Much easier. My 70 e type also has the ribbed valve covers. I thought a 67 would have the smooth covers. I look forward to your next video.
Thanks John, ideally I’d have a lift in the workshop to lift the body up and over (a future upgrade perhaps 🤔). When it comes to refitting I might try and do it where I have a lift. I’ve sourced some smooth cam covers and have started polishing them up in one of my other videos. The head is from a later car but we want the original look. Thanks for watching 😀
Thanks! That's an interesting observation. The frame structure used to support the engine and suspension on the E Type was directly from the learning from the D Type Le Mans racers in the 1950's. The approach of mounting both engine and suspension around a common frame is very much in keeping with Colin Chapman's approach.
a great watch, as planning to do this job myself..... but, you don't really want to take those lifting eyes off.... as you compromise the head gasket sealing. which on replacing the engine, you don't want a problem.... so just get a couple of thick nuts and bolts, with 'penny' washers, and put through two of the chain links, of the dangling chains, and use the lifting eyes.
Hi and thanks! The head is coming off shortly anyway as the engine is being completely stripped and rebuilt. I’ll have to reinstall it differently though!
Another great video. Many thanks. I found the timing pointer to be in a very difficult position. To see it properly I needed the bonnet closed which means you can’t access the plug leads etc or see the timing light.Withthe bonnet open it was very difficult to see the pointer. What I did was to move the pointer to a position of 120 degrees from tdc-there are bolts already on the front of the block that you can use. Then use the timing light on no.4 plug lead counting from the back!! So much easier as I can time the engine by standing near the nsf wheel and just lean in. Anybody else done this???
I note you did not have an insulation pad above the gearbox. This does make a difference to noise level. Really enjoying your series as I have 2 E types and have experienced all the dramas.
Hi Gregory, there is a gearbox sound insulation pad, it’s at 10:02 into the video. It’s so dark and oily looking you might have missed it. Will have to look into how to replace it!
When I’ve removed the torsion plate I inserted two pins in the bolt holes, as per the shop manual. These were series 1 cars. Did you have trouble getting the torsion plate back on?
Thank you. I haven’t actually removed the engine and gearbox from the S-Type. Other than an oil service (engine and gearbox), carb rebuild, cooling circuit replacement I haven’t done anything to them.
Dude man u should have been following the book removing the reaction plate.. knocking a dummy pin in the top bolt hole,as not to unload the torsion bars..now u have no choice but to pull the front end apart and start over to reset the torsion preload!! Assembly has no chance to be reverse of removal, u could benefit from an E-TYPE shop manual
Hi Bruce, I’ve got a couple of workshop manuals and do refer to them. It is all coming apart to be refurbished so I’m going to have to set it all up again anyway. Thanks for your observation and for watching.
@@brucecolby5016 of course. I’m stripping the whole front suspension and replating the wishbones. If you haven’t seen them from a previous episode have a look, they really need it! 😅
@@fossewayclassiccarworkshopgreat video but you should put a note in about the pins, really important if one not disassembling the rest of the front suspension. I ove that lifting fixture that tilts the engine. I used a block and tackle and a plate per the workshop manual.
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Great progress and a big thank you to Isaac for lending a hand! Major milestone, well done!
Nice video. I also had my son assist me in removing the engine. I only removed my engine from the top the first time. I reinstalled it from the bottom. Much easier. My 70 e type also has the ribbed valve covers. I thought a 67 would have the smooth covers. I look forward to your next video.
Thanks John, ideally I’d have a lift in the workshop to lift the body up and over (a future upgrade perhaps 🤔). When it comes to refitting I might try and do it where I have a lift. I’ve sourced some smooth cam covers and have started polishing them up in one of my other videos. The head is from a later car but we want the original look. Thanks for watching 😀
Good job men, thumb up! While watching this video it came to me, that Jaguar E-type without fenders looks much like a rich man's Lotus super 7.
Thanks! That's an interesting observation. The frame structure used to support the engine and suspension on the E Type was directly from the learning from the D Type Le Mans racers in the 1950's. The approach of mounting both engine and suspension around a common frame is very much in keeping with Colin Chapman's approach.
a great watch, as planning to do this job myself..... but, you don't really want to take those lifting eyes off.... as you compromise the head gasket sealing. which on replacing the engine, you don't want a problem.... so just get a couple of thick nuts and bolts, with 'penny' washers, and put through two of the chain links, of the dangling chains, and use the lifting eyes.
Hi and thanks! The head is coming off shortly anyway as the engine is being completely stripped and rebuilt. I’ll have to reinstall it differently though!
Another great video. Many thanks. I found the timing pointer to be in a very difficult position. To see it properly I needed the bonnet closed which means you can’t access the plug leads etc or see the timing light.Withthe bonnet open it was very difficult to see the pointer.
What I did was to move the pointer to a position of 120 degrees from tdc-there are bolts already on the front of the block that you can use. Then use the timing light on no.4 plug lead counting from the back!!
So much easier as I can time the engine by standing near the nsf wheel and just lean in.
Anybody else done this???
I note you did not have an insulation pad above the gearbox. This does make a difference to noise level. Really enjoying your series as I have 2 E types and have experienced all the dramas.
Hi Gregory, there is a gearbox sound insulation pad, it’s at 10:02 into the video. It’s so dark and oily looking you might have missed it. Will have to look into how to replace it!
When I’ve removed the torsion plate I inserted two pins in the bolt holes, as per the shop manual. These were series 1 cars. Did you have trouble getting the torsion plate back on?
Hi, I’ve removed everything on the front end so it’ll all need reinstalling and setting up again when I’ve finished refurbishing it all! 😅
Excellent work...looks easier than i imagined. Did you use the same method for the S type?
Thank you. I haven’t actually removed the engine and gearbox from the S-Type. Other than an oil service (engine and gearbox), carb rebuild, cooling circuit replacement I haven’t done anything to them.
Good job
Thanks very much 😊
super useful thank you!!
Very kind of you to say and pleased to hear it! Thanks for watching :)
Dude man u should have been following the book removing the reaction plate.. knocking a dummy pin in the top bolt hole,as not to unload the torsion bars..now u have no choice but to pull the front end apart and start over to reset the torsion preload!! Assembly has no chance to be reverse of removal, u could benefit from an E-TYPE shop manual
Hi Bruce, I’ve got a couple of workshop manuals and do refer to them. It is all coming apart to be refurbished so I’m going to have to set it all up again anyway. Thanks for your observation and for watching.
@@fossewayclassiccarworkshop u will need the origional manual now..the only reason to loose ride height is replating the A arms.
@@brucecolby5016 of course. I’m stripping the whole front suspension and replating the wishbones. If you haven’t seen them from a previous episode have a look, they really need it! 😅
@@fossewayclassiccarworkshopgreat video but you should put a note in about the pins, really important if one not disassembling the rest of the front suspension. I ove that lifting fixture that tilts the engine. I used a block and tackle and a plate per the workshop manual.
Make that 60 degrees from tdc Sorry!
That’s an interesting suggestion, I’ll consider it when the engine goes back in!