Dave , that may have been one of your longest video's but it flew by ! Great for reference for all would be restorers. Thanks so much. Take care and stay safe.
John, I was surprised that i got so many views within a day or so when i started back up on the jaguar, I hope part 1 & 2 goes as well. The problem is i don‘t do the buttery shots & fancy editing and i‘m the wrong age for youtube lol. Cheers Dave
Dave, great to see the a torsion-bar video online. Might make a note for people that the bars are sided and stamped on the front: RH/LH. They can't be swapped otherwise the car will sit very low. I believe there are two different thicknesses too.
Hi Dave, Great video, super intreasting never seen the makeup of the E-type front suspension and have to say how elegant it is in design though cutting edge for the 60s. Thanks Andy
Andy, As you say for the 60s there was some very clever ideas and designs coming from jaguar and the e type was developed from the C and the D type race cars, Cheers Dave
I need to do this on my 63 FHC which is 1.5 in too low in the front, I’ve been hesitant to tackle it, but with your video I think I will, looking forward to seeing the next video! Thanks
Ehab, I hope this video helps in understanding how to do this job, This is not the only one way to do the adjustment you can knock the bar backwards through the reaction plate to move the splines, Cheers Dave
Hi Dave, Great video as always. Don’t you just hate to have to take apart components that you have previously assembled! I know I do, but what choice do you have? Question for you. Could you share the brand name of the ball joint splitter you used? I have one, but it is junk. I need to find a new one. Thanks so much! Lin
Great how to video Dave think you could have done with an extendable ratchet tho them nuts and bolts needed extra leverage look forward to the next part mate Rob
Rob, I should have used the breaker bar i had on the wheel spinners but you know how it is you just want to get on with it. Im sure i will get some comments on using the ramp, ( It‘s OK for you you have a lift ) It‘s just quicker and easier with the 4 poster but the floor works just as well but not when your an old sod like me lol. Cheers Dave
Hi Dave. This is my task for the week . In fact l'm going to remove the whole front . So l have to remove the tensioner bar in order to remove the engine and space frames. I wondered if the sump could bare the weight of the car .....you've answered my question ! This is very helpful . Thanks Dave.
John, You could just drop the engine and gearbox out of the bottom and and just strip off the inlet & exhaust manifolds it would make things easier the suspension easier to get apart. The sumps are cast on the XK engines unlike the thin metal plate on modern engines that dent with a screwdriver. Best of luck Cheers Dave
John, The Reaction plate has to come out or you can't drop the gearbox down but the torsion bars can stay in place just release the lower ball joints to take out the tension, Cheers Dave
@@ClassicCarCave Good morning Dave. Thanks for your feedback . I'm going to order a motor bike lift from Machine Mart this morning to support the engine. Once l have the engine /box removed l will remove the spaceframes as both toe boards need replacing , along with the outer sills , floor pans and l'm going to fabricate inner sill sections as they appear to be serviceable above the mid point swage . Thanks for your very welcome tips.
Another awesome video Dave ,Personal Question can you see into the Future with them Glasses lol,The ntool for taking the wheels off what a cracking piece of kit would still like to see it lined with rubber or something to stop it scratching the chrome , you`ve made that job look too easy
Peter, Thanks, I must admit looking back at the footage with the light on my glasses they look like milk bottle bottoms lol. I have seen real fancy kits for a samll fortune this guy charges 50 Pounds thats a bárgain i would say. Cheers Dave
Dave on my 1970 2+2 series 2 have not fully assembled after total nut bold every piece dissassembly , . But with the front swing arm the small bolt holds the torsion bar into place with it removed the splines front or back are free to slide . Now that you have tension off lower swing arm can you pull the small bolt and drive the torsion bar forward 1 or 2 inches to release splines while arm still mounted to Frame ? then adjust rotation degree of swing arm down more slide torsion bar back install small bolt and reassemble suspension . .
Greg, You do not need to take apart the lower wishbone with this method, But i will explain in the next video that there are other methods that can be used for this job, Cheers Dave
Bernardo, I will give his name and e mail address in my next video, It was some years ago i bought the wheel spinner tool so i hope he is still producing them, Cheers Dave
This is great stuff Dave. Would you recommend the adjustable reaction plate? Hopefully I’ll be to this point in the spring. Thanks 😊 for the video cheers 🍻 John
John, Thanks, Without a doubt it gives you so much more room for error lol. With the original plate if you get it wrong you have to do it all over again or until you get the ride height correct. Cheers Dave
Bill, I have a old video when i first restored the car showing how to set up the suspension using the distance bars in the jaguar manual, Over some years there has been a slight sag in the torsion bars so i fitted the adjustable reaction plate so i could change the ride height without stripping everything apart, Unfortunately now the rear tear drops or anchors are at the highest point and have to do the whole thing again. Your comments seem quite negative so i will mention them in my next video and people can make up there own minds which way they want to go. Cheers Dave
John, I had one but when my motor had to come back out for work, (another story) I removed it and sold it. I never used mine and it was a bit larger and tighter fit in my particular car so it was much more difficult to install and remove than my original was. I used the setting links as described in the manual and the ride height turned out correct. I do have new torsion bars however, so as Dave said if your are original they may sag over time. Then you need to repeat the setting process to find the correct ride height. There is a posting on Jag-lovers.org E-type forum of someone that recorded the ride height vs. various length setting bars, so if you know your torsion bars are old and or weak, then using a slightly longer or shorter setting bar will generate more or less twist in the torsion bar and will result in more or less ride height.It's something you'll set one in the life of the car hopefully.
Bill, You made some good points and i have mentioned them in the next video, As i always say i‘m not an a professional restore it‘s just a hobby but i had a lot of help from people like yourself and John so i like to try and help if i can with the videos i post, I guess we are all feeling a bit low at the moment with this Covid thing going on so sorry if i over reacted. Cheers Dave
@@JohnCarey1963Jag John thanks so much for the info and I’ve been looking at your videos for quite some time to gleam as much as I can. My coup’e came in kit form and with the virus it’s time to get it done. Mines a very early 4.2 car with many grey areas between 3.8 and 4.2 bits and bobs, so much research needed to figure it out. I’ve been watching yours and Dave’s videos on wiring lately as I just received the wiring kit from British Wiring, beautiful quality and I used them for my Mk 2. I might go talk to Ed Grayson at Consolidated Jaguar at pick his brain on the reaction plate. One cannot have too much information. Thanks for reaching out it’s greatly appreciated. John
John, Good to hear from you, So did you removed the reaction plate each time or just knock the bar through the plate and off the tear drop or rear anchor to adjust the spline position, Cheers Dave
@@ClassicCarCave Dave, I just knocked it through both the reaction plate and tear drop anchor. The only difficulty I ran into was I used a large drift pin to knock my bars backward but the bonnet was in the way a bit. If the bonnet was off like your is, then my method would be very simple to do.
John, The problem i have is i could not get the tear drops or anchors off as the splines as they where solid or rusted on i should have used a press but i figured i could get away with doing the front splines. Cheers Dave
@@ClassicCarCave Dave I take them off rearward too, with the torsion bar bracket and reaction plate firmly fitted otherwise they just bounce around when you pound on the front.
It is nice to take a properly restored car apart, it makes any job so much easier, well done. Kind regards, Richard.
Richard, It has been a lot easier to take parts off this time around compared to when i bought and restored the car
the first time lol. Cheers Dave
Dave , that may have been one of your longest video's but it flew by ! Great for reference for all would be restorers. Thanks so much. Take care and stay safe.
John, I was surprised that i got so many views within a day or so when i started back up on the jaguar, I hope part 1 & 2 goes
as well. The problem is i don‘t do the buttery shots & fancy editing and i‘m the wrong age for youtube lol. Cheers Dave
@@ClassicCarCave Regarding the video , l would be similarly afflicted or more likely worse ! 😂😂
It's great to see how these jags work, great episode Dave
Kevin, Thanks, I hope you will follow my progress if there is any or not lol.Cheers Dave
Dave, great to see the a torsion-bar video online. Might make a note for people that the bars are sided and stamped on the front: RH/LH. They can't be swapped otherwise the car will sit very low. I believe there are two different thicknesses too.
Richard, Thanks, Good point i will show the stamps on the end of the splines showing each side, Cheers Dave
Hi Dave,
Great video, super intreasting never seen the makeup of the E-type front suspension and have to say how elegant it is in design though cutting edge for the 60s.
Thanks
Andy
Andy, As you say for the 60s there was some very clever ideas and designs coming from jaguar and the e type was developed
from the C and the D type race cars, Cheers Dave
I need to do this on my 63 FHC which is 1.5 in too low in the front, I’ve been hesitant to tackle it, but with your video I think I will, looking forward to seeing the next video! Thanks
Ehab, I hope this video helps in understanding how to do this job, This is not the only one way to do the adjustment you can
knock the bar backwards through the reaction plate to move the splines, Cheers Dave
Great vid Dave as always 👌👌💪💪
Mark, Thank you, I do try my best to make them to helpful and something to watch while we in lockdown again. Cheers Dave
Hi Dave, Great video as always. Don’t you just hate to have to take apart components that you have previously assembled! I know I do, but what choice do you have? Question for you. Could you share the brand name of the ball joint splitter you used? I have one, but it is junk. I need to find a new one. Thanks so much! Lin
Lin, I will show it in the next video, It‘s a lot better then takening parts off a restoration project lol. Cheers Dave
Great how to video Dave think you could have done with an extendable ratchet tho them nuts and bolts needed extra leverage look forward to the next part mate Rob
Rob, I should have used the breaker bar i had on the wheel spinners but you know how it is you just want to get on with it.
Im sure i will get some comments on using the ramp, ( It‘s OK for you you have a lift ) It‘s just quicker and easier with the
4 poster but the floor works just as well but not when your an old sod like me lol. Cheers Dave
Hi Dave. This is my task for the week . In fact l'm going to remove the whole front . So l have to remove the tensioner bar in order to remove the engine and space frames. I wondered if the sump could bare the weight of the car .....you've answered my question ! This is very helpful . Thanks Dave.
John, You could just drop the engine and gearbox out of the bottom and and just strip off the inlet & exhaust manifolds it would make things
easier the suspension easier to get apart. The sumps are cast on the XK engines unlike the thin metal plate on modern engines that dent with
a screwdriver. Best of luck Cheers Dave
@@ClassicCarCave l intend to do just that but l guess l still have to remove the rear tensioner plate in order to do this . Thanks Dave.
John, The Reaction plate has to come out or you can't drop the gearbox down but the torsion bars can stay in place just release the lower
ball joints to take out the tension, Cheers Dave
@@ClassicCarCave Good morning Dave. Thanks for your feedback . I'm going to order a motor bike lift from Machine Mart this morning to support the engine. Once l have the engine /box removed l will remove the spaceframes as both toe boards need replacing , along with the outer sills , floor pans and l'm going to fabricate inner sill sections as they appear to be serviceable above the mid point swage . Thanks for your very welcome tips.
Very good video, thank you.
Another awesome video Dave ,Personal Question can you see into the Future with them Glasses lol,The ntool for taking the wheels off what a cracking piece of kit would still like to see it lined with rubber or something to stop it scratching the chrome , you`ve made that job look too easy
Peter, Thanks, I must admit looking back at the footage with the light on my glasses they look like milk bottle bottoms lol.
I have seen real fancy kits for a samll fortune this guy charges 50 Pounds thats a bárgain i would say. Cheers Dave
Great vidéo. Thank you so much :)
Olivier, You are more than welcome i‘m glad you liked the video. Cheers Dave
Thanks for the video. Do you only use hand tools? I love Milwaukee! Subscribed....
Dave on my 1970 2+2 series 2 have not fully assembled after total nut bold every piece dissassembly , . But with the front swing arm the small bolt holds the torsion bar into place with it removed the splines front or back are free to slide . Now that you have tension off lower swing arm can you pull the small bolt and drive the torsion bar forward 1 or 2 inches to release splines while arm still mounted to Frame ? then adjust rotation degree of swing arm down more slide torsion bar back install small bolt and reassemble suspension . .
Greg, You do not need to take apart the lower wishbone with this method, But i will explain in the next video that there are
other methods that can be used for this job, Cheers Dave
Great video, thanks! Can you in addition name the guy that makes this tool to remove the wing nuts? Cheers, Bernardo
Bernardo, I will give his name and e mail address in my next video, It was some years ago i bought the wheel spinner tool
so i hope he is still producing them, Cheers Dave
This is great stuff Dave. Would you recommend the adjustable reaction plate? Hopefully I’ll be to this point in the spring. Thanks 😊 for the video cheers 🍻 John
John, Thanks, Without a doubt it gives you so much more room for error lol. With the original plate if you get it wrong you have
to do it all over again or until you get the ride height correct. Cheers Dave
Bill, I have a old video when i first restored the car showing how to set up the suspension using the distance bars in the
jaguar manual, Over some years there has been a slight sag in the torsion bars so i fitted the adjustable reaction plate
so i could change the ride height without stripping everything apart, Unfortunately now the rear tear drops or anchors
are at the highest point and have to do the whole thing again. Your comments seem quite negative so i will mention
them in my next video and people can make up there own minds which way they want to go. Cheers Dave
John, I had one but when my motor had to come back out for work, (another story) I removed it and sold it. I never used mine and it was a bit larger and tighter fit in my particular car so it was much more difficult to install and remove than my original was. I used the setting links as described in the manual and the ride height turned out correct. I do have new torsion bars however, so as Dave said if your are original they may sag over time. Then you need to repeat the setting process to find the correct ride height. There is a posting on Jag-lovers.org E-type forum of someone that recorded the ride height vs. various length setting bars, so if you know your torsion bars are old and or weak, then using a slightly longer or shorter setting bar will generate more or less twist in the torsion bar and will result in more or less ride height.It's something you'll set one in the life of the car hopefully.
Bill, You made some good points and i have mentioned them in the next video, As i always say i‘m not an a professional
restore it‘s just a hobby but i had a lot of help from people like yourself and John so i like to try and help if i can with the
videos i post, I guess we are all feeling a bit low at the moment with this Covid thing going on so sorry if i over reacted.
Cheers Dave
@@JohnCarey1963Jag John thanks so much for the info and I’ve been looking at your videos for quite some time to gleam as much as I can. My coup’e came in kit form and with the virus it’s time to get it done. Mines a very early 4.2 car with many grey areas between 3.8 and 4.2 bits and bobs, so much research needed to figure it out. I’ve been watching yours and Dave’s videos on wiring lately as I just received the wiring kit from British Wiring, beautiful quality and I used them for my Mk 2. I might go talk to Ed Grayson at Consolidated Jaguar at pick his brain on the reaction plate. One cannot have too much information. Thanks for reaching out it’s greatly appreciated. John
👍
Thanks, Cheers Dave
I always pushed the torsion bars backward to reset the suspension, so I never ran into the casting interference.
John, Good to hear from you, So did you removed the reaction plate each time or just knock the bar through the plate and
off the tear drop or rear anchor to adjust the spline position, Cheers Dave
@@ClassicCarCave Dave, I just knocked it through both the reaction plate and tear drop anchor. The only difficulty I ran into was I used a large drift pin to knock my bars backward but the bonnet was in the way a bit. If the bonnet was off like your is, then my method would be very simple to do.
John, The problem i have is i could not get the tear drops or anchors off as the splines as they where solid or rusted
on i should have used a press but i figured i could get away with doing the front splines. Cheers Dave
@@ClassicCarCave Dave I take them off rearward too, with the torsion bar bracket and reaction plate firmly fitted otherwise they just bounce around when you pound on the front.
Can I adjust one side without releasing tension on both torsion bars?
Bari, Yes know problem you can do one side at a time. Cheers Dave