I like watching your videos, especially when you hit a snag like with frozen bolts. I can't tell you how many times I've had to cut off a bolt head, drill out the meat of the bolt, until the hole can be rejuvenated for new hardware. You are a master at solving these challenges. Any one of the "challenges" brings any part of the rebuild to a complete halt...for hours or days. The rebuilds are a cinch compared to overcoming the "surprises". You are very good at this... Thank you for these videos.
Thanks Stan, very kind of you. I completely agree, sometimes the smallest and seemingly simplest jobs can set you back hours trying to remove or repair or rectify! I’m still learning and I’m sure I always will be, but that’s what keeps it interesting!
This is crazy. The man is doing the entire job with a hammer,screwdriver and an occassional bottle jack. And im waiting for the Snap On man to come by to tell me the next best tool to get. Excellent presentation as usual
Graham, I am in the midst of full mechanical rebuild of my series 2 E Type. ( engine, gearbox, etc.) i am currently rebuilding the front brakes and later the rear brakes. Your video on rebuilding the IRS provides a very clear and concise description of all that is involved. It will save me countless hours of work. Thank You.
Thanks very much John, I'm glad it will be of use. I'm still learning too, in episode 7 I damage the rear hub carrier but worked out a fix to avoid doing it again so watch out for that. Good luck with your restoration!
Hi pleased that you managed to separate the hub carrier from the hub.I remember all the parts when I did mine. Thank goodness for phones with cameras. All the best Pete.
Thanks, was worried for a bit! Smart phones really are quite powerful! I’ve had some more hiccups that I’ll be sharing in future episodes plus a big expansion in the brief…
To have my 1966 EType IRS completely refurbished it was almost £4000 (2019) so worth having a go yourself if you have time and competence. Great video again Graham. 😎
Very enjoyable videos Graham, I look forward to future episodes. There are plenty of good images along with a detailed explanation. Shame (for us!) that the whole car doesn't need restoring, as I'd be keen to watch the rest of the work being done.
I love your detailed yet accessible explanations. I'm curious to know, how much time did you have to spend on the dismounting and refurbishment of the IRS?
I've always had a problem with the grease cap at 12:57. Getting sufficient grease into the hub & knowing that you've done so is a problem. Your thoughts on this lub point & how it can best be done? Not asking for an exact figure but can you share what a typical IRS rebuild normally cost. Thank you
Good question, the last IRS I rebuilt, I remember packing the bearings well with grease but can't remember how much else I put in the hub before putting the cap back on. I'll read up and share that when I get to it in the next few weeks. As for cost of IRS rebuild. It depends on how much you need to replace. In a lot of cases if you have good history with the car it is possible to inspect, clean and repack things like wheel and fulcrum shaft bearings with grease, reuse distance pieces and shims and only replace the seals. Similarly, it might not be necessary to replace splined hubs and spinners. I would estimate that it is likely to cost at least £1000-1500, including blasting and painting/powder coating parts for a basic refurb with new bushes/mounts and closer to £2500-3000 if you need new springs/dampers/bearings/brake pistons etc. As for the diff - this is an expensive part to rebuild if it needs a complete professional rebuild. It is possible for the DIY'er and there are good videos on RUclips for it specifically, but not one you want to get wrong either! Hope that helps.
Graham, great videos. Thanks for taking the time and effort to record your work. I'm restoring a 1966 S type. I'm working on the front subframe first, but the IRS is next. I'm converting to splined hubs as part of the refurb and have read a bit about the process of and having to shim the rear hubs to ensure the correct end float. I didn't see you remove any shims from the hub carriers... are there none fitted to the E type hubs?
Thanks Chris, kind of you. I’m finishing the restoration of a ‘68 S-Type so you might find my website tracking it interesting. Lovely cars and underrated. sites.google.com/view/jaguar-1968-s-type/home Yes, I’m pretty sure there were some shims to set the hub bearing end float.
I like watching your videos, especially when you hit a snag like with frozen bolts. I can't tell you how many times I've had to cut off a bolt head, drill out the meat of the bolt, until the hole can be rejuvenated for new hardware. You are a master at solving these challenges. Any one of the "challenges" brings any part of the rebuild to a complete halt...for hours or days. The rebuilds are a cinch compared to overcoming the "surprises". You are very good at this... Thank you for these videos.
Thanks Stan, very kind of you. I completely agree, sometimes the smallest and seemingly simplest jobs can set you back hours trying to remove or repair or rectify! I’m still learning and I’m sure I always will be, but that’s what keeps it interesting!
This is crazy. The man is doing the entire job with a hammer,screwdriver and an occassional bottle jack. And im waiting for the Snap On man to come by to tell me the next best tool to get. Excellent presentation as usual
Thanks very much ☺️
Graham, I am in the midst of full mechanical rebuild of my series 2 E Type. ( engine, gearbox, etc.) i am currently rebuilding the front brakes and later the rear brakes. Your video on rebuilding the IRS provides a very clear and concise description of all that is involved. It will save me countless hours of work. Thank You.
Thanks very much John, I'm glad it will be of use. I'm still learning too, in episode 7 I damage the rear hub carrier but worked out a fix to avoid doing it again so watch out for that. Good luck with your restoration!
Hi pleased that you managed to separate the hub carrier from the hub.I remember all the parts when I did mine.
Thank goodness for phones with cameras. All the best Pete.
Thanks, was worried for a bit! Smart phones really are quite powerful! I’ve had some more hiccups that I’ll be sharing in future episodes plus a big expansion in the brief…
To have my 1966 EType IRS completely refurbished it was almost £4000 (2019) so worth having a go yourself if you have time and competence. Great video again Graham. 😎
Many thanks :)
Very enjoyable videos Graham, I look forward to future episodes. There are plenty of good images along with a detailed explanation. Shame (for us!) that the whole car doesn't need restoring, as I'd be keen to watch the rest of the work being done.
Thanks Steve. The project scope is expanding a lot. Keep watching, I’ll share details and explain why
At school we had copper soft jaws for the vise.
Good observation, I do have them on another vice but could probably do with some on this one too. Thanks
I love your detailed yet accessible explanations. I'm curious to know, how much time did you have to spend on the dismounting and refurbishment of the IRS?
Thank you Christoph, I think it took me about 100 hours to do from start to finish.
I did all of this more than 40 years ago when building my "Special" , it might need overhauling again soon. 😐
Sounds like you did a good job of it if it is still going strong after 40 years!
I've always had a problem with the grease cap at 12:57. Getting sufficient grease into the hub & knowing that you've done so is a problem. Your thoughts on this lub point & how it can best be done? Not asking for an exact figure but can you share what a typical IRS rebuild normally cost. Thank you
Good question, the last IRS I rebuilt, I remember packing the bearings well with grease but can't remember how much else I put in the hub before putting the cap back on. I'll read up and share that when I get to it in the next few weeks.
As for cost of IRS rebuild. It depends on how much you need to replace. In a lot of cases if you have good history with the car it is possible to inspect, clean and repack things like wheel and fulcrum shaft bearings with grease, reuse distance pieces and shims and only replace the seals. Similarly, it might not be necessary to replace splined hubs and spinners. I would estimate that it is likely to cost at least £1000-1500, including blasting and painting/powder coating parts for a basic refurb with new bushes/mounts and closer to £2500-3000 if you need new springs/dampers/bearings/brake pistons etc. As for the diff - this is an expensive part to rebuild if it needs a complete professional rebuild. It is possible for the DIY'er and there are good videos on RUclips for it specifically, but not one you want to get wrong either! Hope that helps.
Graham, great videos. Thanks for taking the time and effort to record your work. I'm restoring a 1966 S type. I'm working on the front subframe first, but the IRS is next. I'm converting to splined hubs as part of the refurb and have read a bit about the process of and having to shim the rear hubs to ensure the correct end float. I didn't see you remove any shims from the hub carriers... are there none fitted to the E type hubs?
Thanks Chris, kind of you. I’m finishing the restoration of a ‘68 S-Type so you might find my website tracking it interesting. Lovely cars and underrated.
sites.google.com/view/jaguar-1968-s-type/home
Yes, I’m pretty sure there were some shims to set the hub bearing end float.