Ep7 - 1967 Jaguar E-Type IRS refurb part 2: sand blasting and painting
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- Опубликовано: 5 дек 2021
- In this episode I sandblast and repaint each part of the rear suspension and subframe, have more problems with the hub carrier (and learn a lesson) and strip and examine the brake pistons.
Please cover the bonnet when working so close to it. If I was doing the work that you did, I would have splattered paint, splashed acid wash, and knocked over the hanging parts onto the bonnet! Your videos are very informative and present a realistic point of view. I have enjoyed them all. Thank you.
Thanks Bruce, glad you're enjoying the videos. Good point about protecting the bonnet, I'll make a point to keep it better covered in future!
Great Work!!
Thanks very much! 😊
I've personally never had luck with air pressure, but a grease gun fitted to the caliper has never let me down. Makes a mess, of course, but I've also never launched one across the room ;-) I'm enjoying your series... All the best to you
Thanks for the tip Mike. Pleased to hear you’re enjoying the series. The project is growing significantly, more info to follow in the next episode!
Thank you so much.I agree about using a brush. It seems very old school but I get much better results.Perhaps I am rubbish at spraying!!! Many thanks and all best wishes.Pete.
Thanks Pete, glad you agree. The POR15 levels very well and you waste less and contain the mess much better than spraying too.
POR15 (which stands for Paint Over Rust) is great stuff. One secret is that it works best if there is a little surface rust left on what you're painting. Painting directly out of the can is discouraged, because if you carry any rust into the can, the whole can can harden. You can put the top on with a layer of plastic wrap between the top and the can, and you will be able to open it for at least a few weeks.
Hi! Yes I really rate POR-15 and like that it is sold in smaller cans too as I’ve had bigger ones previously that either go hard or I can’t open next time! I do exactly that, use some plastic wrap between the lid and the can now.
@@fossewayclassiccarworkshop It can be very slow to dry, but that can be assisted by spraying a mist of water on the paint. Strange chemistry at work. It does turn gray if exposed to sunlight, but it is still effective.
Here is a handy tip IF you purchase the large can of POR15 pour some into a glass jar and use it from the jar, then when finished put a couple of layers of cling film over the top of the jar prior to fitting the lid that way you will be able to get the lid off and not waste paint, also once the lid is on I invert the jar make sure it is not leaking and store it that way.
Top tip! Thanks! 😀
POR15 is great stuff ..... but it has no UV resistance and unless you top coat it with something else it will go all chalky and will be an eye sore on your e type but it is very tough and worth the effort
Enjoyed this progress and I use POR15 on my cars. Only comment is the bonnet left uncovered whilst your using brushes with acid and paint!
Thanks, noted…I’ve taken great care but will cover up from now on.
Not sure why you don't preheat your hub carriers before driving out your bearing shells. It's simply good engineering practice as cold driving will actually damage the aluminium shell housing even tho you can't see it with naked eye. Aluminium expands at a ratio of 3 to 2 compared with steel so the interference fit reduces meaning zero damage to the housing and the shell comes out much more easily.
Thanks Jeff, yes you’re right. I definitely heated the hub carriers for refitting the bearings but can’t remember (I might have missed in the edit) when removing them. Good point and one to watch in future. Thanks for watching and the advice.
Wouldn't it make sense to approach this project the same way as a mechanic would a brake job...fix one side then the other??? Taking everything apart at one time makes for 10x the work..this is the hard way to make stuff shiny,por15 requires topcoat (as directed),does not compare to powdercoat..maybe cover the car instead of the bench??
Hi Bruce, I guess it could have benefits doing a side at a time but I find that as I am doing the whole lot, getting to individual components allows me to refurbish them the same way at the same time i.e. one trip to the sand blaster etc. Also, freeing the diff from the centre means it can be refurbished in parallel.
POR-15 should remain black and shiny as long as it isn’t exposed to UV. I’ve got parts painted with it that have been in a drawer for years and still look freshly painted. I’m sure it is much better for impact resistance than powder coating too.