30K E-Type Engine Disassembly 🔧 Workshop Diary 3
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- Опубликовано: 22 май 2023
- In this video we disassemble completely disassemble E-Type engine 7E12319-9 from 1967 Jaguar XKE Series I 4.2 Roadster 1E14757.
Second job in the video we begin a Jaguar IRS rebuild and refinish the Dana44 differential case, Flange on Drive Shafts, Companion output Flange and Housing, For Drive Shaft Bearings.
Lastly, we setup the Rear Hub, Carrier, Outer Fulcrum Shaft, rear wheel bearings and Spacer, On Half-Shaft Splined Yoke, For Hub Bearing Adjustment using a depth micrometer.
Link to 1967 E-Type on BaT: bringatrailer.com/listing/196... 
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My late brother bought a new 1967 XKE 2+2 in red for $6,500....wish that was still around....thanks for the video
I really love these workshop masterclasses Richard, even though I will never be elbows deep into an E-Type engine I love learning, understanding how things work, come apart and go back together!
Thank you for your love of Jags especially the E-Type in all its flavours and taking the time with your Dad to show and tell for all of us like minded Jag Lovers.
He is one of a kind. He should be Knighted, Sir Richard...
It's a true blessing from God you work alongside your dad! It will really bring joy to your dad, for sure!
I love this channel. If I had the money to buy and restore an XKE this shop is the one I would have do it. Richard is the man!
Enjoy being in the shop with you.
Your attention to detail is amazing. I love watching you apply your craftsmanship.
Richard I really enjoy your videos and learning the secrets of the E type.
I especially love watching you and your Dad work together!
Keep up the great work and long live the E type!!
Wow your customer really found a solid runner on Bring a Trailer.
Looking forward to restoration ….
Hello Richard . Good to see you and Dad back in the workshop and really enjoyed your coverage of your recent car shows. I think l would have been quite content to leave that engine alone dimensionally. But what really surprised me was the complexity of the IRS . I'm having mine rebuilt and l can absolutely guarantee that no way has mine received,the attention as yours .Thanks Richard
Those cam cover washers are from self-tapping sheetmetal screws. For attaching corregated iron or acrylic roof panels 🙂
😮
@@forbiddenera No they are not! they are called "Dowty washers", used extensively throughout British machinery, for oil sealing.
Well they sure look exactly like a self sealing washer off of a self tapping sheet metal screw (roofing screw), to me too. As a matter of fact, I have some in my shop that look identical, made from stainless!
@@concrete542 😶🤔😯
I would absolutely have repaired that cam cover.
I restored my 1962 Series I roadster in 1980 but before doing that, I had to rebuild my 1965 S-Type sedan engine because a cotter pin from the con rod had gotten jammed in the oil pump. It somehow managed to break off and get past the oil pump screen and when the pump jammed, the brass coupling between the oil pump and distributer broke. When I heard the noise and noticed the oil pressure at zero, I managed to shut down the engine before damaging the bearings. Until I saw the broken coupling, I didn’t realize what happened. Needless to say, I used Loctite, not cotter pins when reassembling the engine. Had RUclips been around back when I was rebuilding Jaguars, life would have been a lot less stressful. Thanks for sharing your experience.
fab work, bravo
Richard that acorn nut washer is used to seal a roofing screw on tin roofs. Used them many times on tin roof repairs. Somebody tried the "low buck" repair approach on that valve cover crack!
Love listening to your comments and observations with the benefit of so much XK engine knowledge and experience!
I drive past your shop a few times a week, glad to see another video!
I love Jag E's and have owned two so understanding why people love them comes easy. However, the problem is THIS IS LITERALLY A BRAND NEW ENGINE, BARELY BROKEN IN and look at all the problems it has had for only 30,000 miles. These cars are beautiful but require so much love and attention...AND MAINTENACE, it takes a special person to want to own one. Richard definitely knows his stuff and you can tell he does love these cars. He'll no doubt get this baby back together but then it's the same old story...how long before something else requires major repair? You will never see an E-Type Jag go 100,000 miles without a major faux-pas like so many other cars do. That is a shame!
I remember when these e types were very attainable. Not so much anymore. Also they have shrunk. Stood by one a week ago, they are tiny. Great channel keep up the good work
I'm not in agreement with the 10 thou over. But I know nothing,. The anticipation builds, like a great book.!!
I wish I had your dad around to help me work on my Jag too
I'm sculptor but I real like Jaguars and watching you classes. thank you and your dad.
Another incredible video displaying the skill and patience it takes to build these machines properly. That was quite a formidable task. Thank you and your dad so much for sharing.
Weigh each plug you replace, matching the replacement exactly. I'm sure you know this. You Sir are a true Mechanic, a pleasure to watch. Thank you for your excellent content.
2:04 this washer looks just like the washer for Self Drilling Sheet Metal Roofing Screws. And I bet that this is it.
Ps Love your channel Richard and I got really interested in old Jaguars thanks to you. My favorite is XK120 and 140!!!
So very informative Richard and strengthens my believe that this kind of work should be left to the experts like you and not a novice like me.
The only Jag engine I ever saw in person was during the late '80's, an American 8 cyl. The dealer couldn't give 'em away. My co-worker was given two to drive to work on alternate days to garner interest in the car. It didn't work. 😂
I'm not a mechanic but I love watching your videos. I always learn some interesting fact about these classic cars and engines in a particular. Thanks for sharing, Richard.
Hi John, great to have you along ,🍻
I remember taking the timing chain tensioner out of a Rover 2000 - it had a locking catch to stop it flying across the workshop.
l love your channel and the great work you do, having owned (in '67-'78) a '67 drophead E-type and a 1967 Healey BJ8, which we both rebuilt and restored. But for god's sake get a wireless lavalier mic! Your audio is all over the place, and doesn't come close to the great quality of your camera shots. Please? Again, thanks for everything to you and your awesome Dad. Cheers from Kremmling, Colorado!
Brilliant video Richard.. As usual you and your dads attention to detail is first class...J
Thanks Richard great episode enjoyed your attention to detail! Cheers
Richard, fascinating stuff, love your attention to detail, that diff assembly will most certainly surpass its condition as originally assembled. With regard to the big end split pins, after an engine overhaul by an "expert" shop, my friend's '63, 3.8 series 1 E type oil pump "digested" split pins from 3 big end castellated nuts which busted the pump wide open. The pins were badly sized for the holes, anything loosely fitted will be worn away by reciprocation inertia. Love this content and the long detailed video.
I'm surprised that oil pump didn't jam, with the clearances in a grotor it only takes a small amount debris to spoil your day. Very interesting video 👍🏻
If you look at brass skew gear I think that you can see the damage when it locked up .
good work Michael. I enjoyed the entire video. keep it up when you can.
What a great video! Was neat to see what all went in to rebuilding a Jag rear as that was a “preferred” rear for 1960’s and 70’s hot rodders. I’ll bet they never did a rebuild like this!
Thanks Richard 👍
Hi Richard, it's very inspiring to see how much attention to detail you achieve! Though I don't own an"E type" , your methods and work ethic are helpful when I work on 1929 Ford Phaeton. This coming weekend is the "British by the Sea" in Waterford Ct. There are some fabulous cars, now when I check out the Jaguars I will know what to look for ! Keep up the amazing work!! Thanks Mark
Excellent video once again. I loved the little tips and tricks in there!
Another lovely video, Richard. Thank you so much. As always: I enjoyed it! By coincidence, I just overhauled the IRS of my XJ6 4.2. Cheers, Chris
And great work miss Jeff, educating us.. Thanks 😊
Good work Richard!
Great video. So interesting.
my welder here in Sydney Australia would weld that up both sides; piece of cake. Then finger file it down. I polish. Voila !!!
I didn't show it on camera very well but all the washer 'beds' for the nuts would have to be re-machined as well.
2:09 looks like a Honda K-series engine valve cover washer seal. They are found on all Honda auto engines, B, D, F, H, K, J, L and R series.
Seems like the best kind of mechano to play with!
Nice one RM...lovely looking engine
Most interesting , look like a factory original engine however the old gasket cement thats dribbling down the sump would say the it’s been off, but nothing to report there so carry on. Thank you .
Great update RMO! Completely wrong cam washers. Should be copper.
Don’t forget, you will have to recalibrate your speedo with 2.88 diff. Also although car will be higher geared and far better for freeway, you will notice the acceleration through all the gears will be slightly slower, that is why I put in a Tremec T5 which effectively just gives an overdrive 5 gear, so Speedo stays same and first four gears are the same so you do not lose acceleration. But of course my way is not original. I believe in UK the standard diff was 3.31 with option of 2.88. Whereas in USA it was 3.54 as you top speed on freeway was 55 whereas we we originally unlimited then later 70 ! Great video by the way. Looking forward to next.
Hi John thanks for watching definitely 5-Speed with 3.51:1 is the ultimate setup.
Great vid !!
Not that it is important - The washer underneath the valve cover nut is a rubber bonded washer, they are a common item at Fastenal or similar parts warehouse. The washer is domed from the factory, it is not warped. It was probably installed in the last 20 years, because that is when they became common. The valve cover crack can be repaired on the underside, but it would take a welding specialist to not heat it up enough to leave heat marks on the top side. The crack would still be visible, but it wouldn't leak. Yes, even if it is junk cast aluminum it can be repaired.
Great work as always 👍👍
great episode, learned lots. thanks
That was great Richard! You’ve probably already thought of this but with stud removal why don’t you pop a spare ring spanner down the stud before you put the two bolts on. That way you can engage that lower bolt regardless as to how the upper bolt is aligned!
That's a great tip thanks.
You get it
Actually it may have come out the factory as a black. Black was not a listed colour for E types. The paint shop would select a signal red car, and put it back through as a black.
Rochester short vowel sound as in rock.
While watching you assemble the rear wheel hub I noticed you hammered the second bearing all the way down against the outer race. You need to be very careful not to brinell the bearing raceways when you do this. I would consider inserting a large shim spacer before hammering the bearing down then measuring the bearing end float in a similar way that you did for the yoke bearings.
Richard, your enthusiasm is worth bottling! That engine was definitely well-looked after... clean oil, great bearing surfaces, no corrosion in the timing cover... wonderful!
Question: Is that filter mesh for the hydraulic camchain tensioner also present in Series 3 motors?
Thanks for the kind comment Mike, not sure about the V12 tensioner TBH.
Like a surgeon! However, I wonder why you didn't use some WD-40 or something on those long studs. Especially that rusty one instead of trying to remove it dry? I worked with a race engine builder/ rebuilder who used WD-40 or a similar spray product on bolts, studs, nuts as he went. Basically every fastener got sprayed, and with time to soak in. I don't remember any curse words from broken studs or fasteners. Occasionally, on the most stubborn fasteners, he used a torch, never on the studs, only on the piece the stud is stuck in. Then a rap with a hammer to shock it. I don't remember any fasteners getting the best of him. Just curious, I enjoy watching your workmanship. Well done...
2:42 he probably took the cam cover off (with great difficulty) prior to the video and then put it back and proceeded with the video-making. Notice how clean it was?
Those pins that brake and disappear like to find there way to the oil pump and break it. I saw one that was rebuilt by a respected shop. It was a lock bonnet full restoration. 3 year after client had the vehicle a piece of old pin killed the oil pump.
I boil these felt seals in thick oil. Merely soaking them in oil does not appear to be sufficient.
Have never experienced problems with subsequent water ingress.
I am sure you know. For others. iIf you ever have teflon lip seals, avoid complete polish. When they first run, they need a rougher surface. They leave teflon on the journal surface. Teflon likes to run teflon to teflon. It may leak if too smooth.
Life of the seal is longer on smoother surfaces.
Curious to know (ignoring the existing cosmetic issues) why the cracked cam cover cannot be repaired.
I am curious about that too. Could a good welder not make that as good as new?
Ok dig out the crack, try to weld porous aluminum full of oil, grind it back and repolish, then hope it holds, but it's so much easier to start with a better set.
Don't take it to the Rainman to weld it 😂
Send the cracked cam cover to the UK we have the skills to repair it 😂
With just the cost of shipping I can find a better set
I might be interested to know, where is who is doing it? Have a hole box full of them.
Even if you are not machining to crank, surely worth polishing ?
As for the rope seal , why would you not stagger it?
Hee Richard verry nice engine , perfect to use ... but where kan i order the diff replacement at 2.88 / 1 ?? i think it was impossible to find ( in europe) ...one question how do you fill up the diff... there is no breather or access to fill it upp
... hope to see more , you kan only enjoy when you drive them greetings form belgium
I fitted a used 2.88:1. Dennis Welsh make a new one for about 600GBP. Thanks for watching!
Could the wristpin be offset to compensate for thrustside wear. Just kind of flashed through my brain damage!
Hi Richard. Interesting video. You may be interested that Jaguar have released an online exhibition of Sir William Lyons. You will have to google it since lovely RUclips won't let me include a link!
Are you planning on going to Pebble Beach or any other events this year?
Hi Christina, thanks for watching, yes PB just in the works.
0:06 never lift an E-Type Jag off the ground with the IRS unsupported. If you do the only thing holding it up are four rubber mounts in who knows what condition, the drive shaft, and the rear brake line.
If the rear end falls out due to lifting, it was already extremely dangerous on the road. Good to check the mounts regularly.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Let's not leave out poor quality repro parts. The mounts though are less likely to fail catastrophically in compression, tension is a whole different thing.
@@jwh475ezc how about a big bump at 100 mph?
Is this chassis more sketchy then merc 300sl?
+100 for damps instaead of dampening (it's not wet!).
38:45 weight reduction 101
Why is one valve head blackened and the other not?
Is it normal to use Locktite on drive shaft splines? (Sounds pointless to me.)
New hubs have slight play on the shafts, so it helps protect against movement causing a clunk and wearing the splines.
domed piston 9:1 compression?
Did the previous owner bondo over the seams on bonnet on that white XKE? What was he thinking?
He claimed it was to change the look to C & D-Type, but it was really because the flange was so rusted away. Now the car needs an entire new bonnet assembly.
Please don’t wear sleeves when using you lathe!
Good day RMO, what a lucky guy you are with that engine. That looked like a Sunday afternoon walk, taking it apart. I have just been through a nightmare with the engine of my barn find project. A video on how things on that engine are going, will follow shortly. However, nice to see that the engine has all the OEM equipment, very rare I guess. To be honest, all the engines I have opened already had .30 oversize pistons. and I wonder how long did the originals last? What is your guess, 50.000 miles? What will happen to the body? Will you strip it and why has it been painted at all. Looking forward to your next release. Keep up the good work and excellent video quality. Maikel ruclips.net/video/IQsvKGQnzPQ/видео.html
Maikel, it was a 30k engine. The body is over with Coachwerks for metal and paint, new floors and bonnet too! Very curious to see your 2+2 engine.
Can you use metric
Just been chatting to a friend about my 3.8 engine you would definitely know
It breathes a bit from oil filler no smoke from exhaust
Sound's a bit tapety
Was laid up 30 years in a dry garage car was complete wasn't wreck I just wanted engine for my own 3.8 mk2
If you could give advice please regards Adam
That's blow by, combustion pressure getting past the piston rings. A leak down test will verify.
@@RichardMichaelOwen thank you very much for your reply for some reason it didn't notify me, ok il have to do a compression test, bugger was hopping to just fit it straight in 😭 thanks for your advice much appreciated, also
A friend has just bought an xk150 basket case
Made me think of that crashed 150 you showed us at auction thought front end could possibly be used
Could send you pictures if you like it's in the uk
Regards Adam
Lots of damage at 30,ooo miles ?!
It's not a big deal, all you have to do is flip the ring gear over on your flywheel, and voila, you have fresh teeth for the starter to engage !
All you need is an oxy-acetalene torch, heat the ring gear up on the flywheel, and it will nearly fall off. Flip it over heat it up and drop it back on the flywheel and your good.
27:59 Your saying Rochester wrong btw. You can Google it, but it's pronounced Roch-e-ster. Even the Americas that they LIVE there are saying it wrong.
When you type it in, make sure it's the UK pronunciation because the American one is wrong.
This is to America btw and it's not directed towards yous lot by any means.
So how come America uses SO MANY names and places from the UK? 🤨🤔 Is there any reason WHY you couldn't even be bothered to try and make up your own names for places? Because in my eyes that'd be so much cooler and easily AND you don't get confused when your trying to look up or search for something on a map.
At Last, my favorite You Tube Buddy is back, glad to know your still alive, how dare you put earning money in a business ahead of what I want 🤣🤣🤣🤣
ANYONE working a Jaguars could learn a lot just watching your videos I have worked on MANY classic Jaguars and sometimes think I know it all then you put me to shame with a little hint or tip, NEVER TOO OLD TO LEARN.
I was surprised you did not remove the cams prior to removing the head, did you do this for a reason ?
Not sure if I have mentioned this before but on the IRS hub carrier there is a small weep hole on the inside opposite the grease nipple we used to put a small self tapping screw in the hole to plug it, that way when pumping grease in it is forced out to the bearings on the shaft, if left open the grease will come out of the hole before reaching the bearings.
The washers look like roofing nail sealing washers for galvanized steel?