Seriously Who down Thumbs this fantastic information from these experienced mechanics? They're doing a great job of videoing and telling us whats going on! This is awesome and valuable information. Thank you for doing this hard work and sharing it with us!
I was doing a job on a car the other day and it was something really weird that not everyone would be doing having to do with swapping out wires on a connector on a window switch and i told myself "i sure could use some help with this but there is no video out there showing how to do this, couldn't be" but low and behold there was one (1) video on RUclips, incredible. @@tarstarkusz
use 50% acetone and 50% transmission oil as rust breaker will even free seized rings. Old School better than any penetrant or marvel mystery oil. would of worked on studs, I have done several Jags.
On the head stud bolts use the valve method to keep locations of the studs accurate. Piece of cardboard with the studs arranged in the proper pattern as they come out.
There must be a better way to try and rotate the engine?! Prying on the starter ring in raising my blood pressure, through the screen. Lol P.s. I know that necessity forces unfavorable circumstances to be used at times, so I do completely understand. : )
Joshua Collins... and what would you recommend? the starter motor uses it every time you press the button.. perfectly acceptable method, best done using a decent bolt into the top threaded holes. best use 2 . and 2 levers, rocking it back and forth. I'd rather they freed it off before removing the flywheel.
I was gonna say that,could use a nice grade 8 bolt or something strong, every time i saw that bolt flex i was like nooo,the gentleman was being very careful so it wasn't like some kid standing on the prybar or hitting it with a hammer,easy does it. @@captainboggles
There is a tool for holding the flywheel. Tools for everything.lol. It’s a complete tear-down. Just pull it apart. You will find the stuck parts, eventually. Been there done that! Great shape for an old engine.
The "G" on the top deck is apparently the bore size. Should be one for each cyl. Original pistons should be one size up from bore, "H" in this case. Info from another youtube video so maybe OK! Sorry if this is repeat info, I can't read 175 comments (+replies) to check. Here is youtube that discusses bore grade/size- thanks youtube for edit feature. ruclips.net/video/Qo96pQZ5Y78/видео.html
I have always love those engines because of the design. That paint by the way is armature paint that the use in generators. That ol girl is in great shape buddy and you got a heck of a deal on it. I assume you know how to check the ware on the timing gears. They dont look real bad at all but worn a bit. I figure about 30-40,000 miles on it. Good video chum.
painting the inside of the crankcase with red lead paint was to protect the metal and 'improve viscosity?' twas a typically british thing. When red lead primer was banned in NZ we switched to zinc chromate primer. until that too was banned.
@Sam Babbitt glyptol, armature paint was paint of preference for race car engine builders in the sixties and seventies, sealed the block and increased oil flow on drainback.
About the painted engine block: I learned that high quality machines and engines are factory painted inside to prevent any left over sand corns or particles from the casting process to fall off. Sometimes engine cases were sandblasted after the casting sand was removed. That is what an old mechanical engeíneering professor told me. Mercedes-Benz says in their documents it is done to "bind the cast iron molecules" whatever that means :-)
ALU...MIN..IUM say it slowly if you still struggle with it..just change the spelling to the yank version..same as COLOUR..METRE.. LITRE just dont ever go near HYDROMINIUM the alloy that Rolls Royce invented..great video anyway. yes ..no S..on anyway
Brilliant. I only just came across this. I like how you are so cautious with the hows and whys of the next bit of the disassembly. Now I'm off to watch the next bit :)
I'm amazed that flywheel would come off that way at ALL usually those and the crank pully, are stuck on the crank with a death-grip that nothing short of dynamite and/or the gear puller would budge -
Removed the head studs without too much issue? That is fortunate and as you say you 'lucked out'. Good to see. Will have to watch the rest of this series now......B-)
I have to compliment you on producing a well made and detailed Video Recording. Once I watched the most interesting 'Episode One', I was compelled to watch the second. I have yet to watch the remaining episodes. Some very interesting comments too, all in all I learned something from the experiences of others. Just to think; when that E Type Jaguar was made I was age 9. Always liked the E Type. When my dad sold the Ford Zodiac and was out looking for a replacement it was down to a Mercedes Benz and Jaguar ... He bought a Mark ll in British Racing Green. When I was 13 I was attending College to learn Motor Mechanics, as it so happened Jaguar were donating Coventry Climax Racing Engines and other Jaguar Engines. There are a few stories I could tell, much too long to write here. Though one interesting story of the husband of a cousin who owned a nice dark Silver color 3.8 Mark ll, having taken the engine apart for some kind of repairs, and after re-asssembly discovering that it was shooting flames out of the carburettor. I said to him that he has transp[osed the two cam shafts --- His attitude was 'What would a 14 year old know?' Years later his wife admitted that I was correct after he towed the car to a Mechanic. All that of course was in Leicester England, Coventry being 27 miles / 43 Km South of Leicester City. Anyway he has been dead three decades or so, so what does it matter. Anyway I guess he died happy in that he enjoyed his variety alcohol poisons. As for me ... I don't touch the stuff. Many thanks for making these interesting and informative videos of your experience with this Engine. Brings back memories for sure. You won another subscriber.
@Alan Torrance Actually ALUMINUM is correct .. As the metal starts with being BAUXITE -> ALUMINA -> ALUMINUM It does not go from BAUXITE to ALIMINIA ... Get it? And Mr Yank is CANADIAN - So you got that wrong also. Which is not surprising. So get the point.
Question, @17:56 you said that you were just going to leave the chain guides. Why wouldn't you just replace them since you are so far into this job? I am at this decision point. Any advice is appreciated.
I'm late, but I can explain the paint on the inside. This coming from an old CAT engine guy. CAT would put a ceramic-like coating on the oil area of the block. The cast iron would weep oil externally, over time. The coating prevented that.
at 19:13 in the video, there's a bolt into the side of the casting for the distributor shaft, i was thinking it needed to be loosened to remove the shaft, being a locator with the end riding in a groove maybe, but now i bet it's a block off for an oil passage to the distributor shaft? also, with the motor locked, would just loosening the distributor drive gear nut put too much pressure on the gears? you said "getting kind of hasty" but your method turned out well. thank you for making this video.
Jeff in Toronto FILM has not been used fro decades Jeff. Video Recordings have been made on digital equipment. Recording on to FILM (aka: Filming) is finished, Over. You like many others have been successfully indoctrinated (aka: Brainwashed) into using the term Filming that you CANNOT get it out of your head. This is a human condition .. People are EASILY MANIPULATED. Just use the word RECORDING [ meaning : keeping a record of ] That way you will not have to use outdated TERMINOLOGY.
Amazing how clean the inside of the engine is. I’ve seen modern V-8’s with 80,000 miles with way more varnish and crud in the oil pan. This engine must not have that many miles on it.
Hello sir. What the differences between engine of E.type 4.2 & xj6??? Cylinder block, head, valves size, piston shape, cam shafts??? Why etype 4.2 makes 280-300 hp but XJ6 makes 150-160 hp
Actually the true definition of a british mechanic is a guy with 6 inch hands and 12 inch fingers. Rear seals on large English engines, Rustons, Bellis and Morcom, Paxmans, Napier Deltic. So on most British engines the money was made by selling speciality tools.
@@twotone3070 CORRRECT People imagine that everything was invented in the USA. Clearly it was not. Many an invention the USA copied from the British. The Computer was known as ' Colossus ' There was also a movie made entitled ' Colosus ' The Colossus Computer is recognized as being the world's first programmable, electronic, digital computer. Developed around 1942. As an Electronics Engineer (ex-Philips & ex- Military) I know this stuff very well.
On the earliest XK engines, the letter stamped on the deck, outboard of each cylinder, corresponded to a letter stamped on each piston crown. If the letters still correspond, then the engine still has its original pistons. This later engine may be similarly stamped.
The reason that they paint the inside of the engine block is to prevent oil from seeping through the engine block. I believe that is because the cast iron is porous.
I used to do jobs like this with old motorcycle engines. When I removed stuck nuts, bolts, studs, I would tap on the ends, then, twist off, twist on, pound on the end and repeat until it broke loose. The reason to do so is that the rust forms a bond between the two surfaces, but it is very brittle. Once it is broken lolose, it is wise to unscrew, screw on, unscrew and so on. The rust particles can acts like key between two tight fitting surfaces. Reversion the rotation unlocks the keys and allows the nut to turn a bit more before it locks up again. Also, applying too much torque can twist and then break the stud, Ouch. Another help is to bath the joints with WD 40. This lubricates the stuck surfaces and partially softens some of the rust particles. I some times would apply the WD 40 and then go do something else, like go to bed, and then come back the next day. Another improvement pulling the rotation parts off a shaft is to use wheel puller when possible. Tapping on only one side can cock the part. As with the nuts and bolts, pull it off a little, then push it back on and so on. I learned, early on, that a good part of being a good mechanic was knowing how hard to hit things. The videos are very well done and edited, showing only actual important steps and omitting the boring parts between. I once had a dream of sectioning a XK 120 engine cleaning it up shiny, putting in a display case in my living room. My wife would have objected. An antique engine next to her antique furniture did not appeal to her. She could not see the beauty in an engine.
I would make fixed. “usually” the engine will turn, to facilitate the removal of the off-set drive gear/shaft. I’m a hobby machinist, I can make tools, always out of steel.
The first ones had 3.6 (maybe 3.2??), then 4.2 straight sixes - The V12 5.3's were mainly export and I think had a lower top speed! The V12 5.3 engine was also used in the XJS. As a kid I grew up with these engines but mounted in XJ6's and were magical to be driven about in. I bought a series 2 XJ6 4.2 back in the eighties with an auto box - I could put it in drive and without any throttle would quickly get up to 25-30 MPH!
nope... 3.8l , then 4.2. series 1,2 and 3, (this is probably a series 3) The v12 5.3 were last, including 'commemoration series' . awful engine, never worked hard enough to run clean. when i lived in Canada, worked on these, , would never go thru emissions (dirty engine) had to half fill tank with ethanol to make them run hot enough to pass emissions.
Why did British car manufacturers prefer studs to bolts to tie down the head and block? These are long and so can easily stretch with the engine heat and the nuts do not have as much holding pressure than bolts. Also the studs passing through the water jacket?? About that oil sump hose (@5.15) why did they not use a metal tube. The timing chain drive mechanism seems a bit overboard too, but I will follow up on your next videos.
This was the days before camshafts were driven with a rubber band - one of the worst ideas I have ever come across for driving a vital part of the engine. Rubber belts are used because they are cheap and you don'y need to run them in an oil bath as you doe with a chain. The rubber belts break whereas timing chains stretch. When the belt breaks the valves usually have an argument with the pistons (which win!). Result is bent valves and often cracked valve guides. It is easy to tell when a timing chain stretches as the engine noise changes and the problem can be sorted before any serious damage is done. The rubber hose is used rather than a metal tube to give flexibility and allow for expansion. A metal tube secured at both ends and subject to vibration will inevitably fail due to fatigue. When it breaks all the oil comes out under pressure - pretty catastrophic if it happens at speed and new engine required. Rubber hoses tend to leak long before they fail.
@@johnspencer6270 Engine designs have changed a lot, these modern engines are more fast revving than the older units. A cam belt arrangement drive suits these engines as a belt requires less energy than a heavier chain to go around(dynamic). Less noise and no lube needed, and ancillaries like water pump come with the belt change service interval.Its just that the belt change service must be followed to prevent engine damage. For the manufacturers, the cost of production is low and easy for belts.
head studs don't stretch with heat. .. and torqueing down a head to 80 ft'lbs when the thread may be in an ali block is asking for a strip. besides , to torque a bolt that is 15" long into ali is nonsense. nuts have just as much holding capability as bolt, especially as in these engines the nuts are about 1" deep. .. you seem to ask a lot of pointless questions, like why use a rubber drain hose?... WHO CARES? the engine is 50 years old.. the people who built it and designed it are all dead. . You're obviously not a mechanic, .. stick to question that show a little savvy. ..
@@captainboggles Continental and Japanese auto manufacturers always use bolts for torquing the head, you will only find studs in British vehicles. I have owned and worked on Mercedes Benzs, Nissan/Datsun, Mini Mk1, and a host of mainly Japanese vehicles over the years. I find that British vehicles do have weak engineering. They are only good in trim and interior - just like your average Jaguar or Rolls Royce - but when it comes to engine design or electrics, they fail miserably. History testifies to this. For your information, I have a diploma in Automobile Mechanics and BSc in Mechanical Engineering.
Studs/bolts for holding down the head. It depends what kind of steel either is made of.The same quality of steel of the same length and diametre would stretch the same for the same amount of heat, whether stud or bolt.Whether stud or bolt, a hole has to be drilled in the block. British engine design and electrics. In the good old days of the Morris Oxford both were remarkably robust and pleasantly simple. The early Nissan/Datsun motor was based on the Morris 1000 motor. My old BMW used studs and being of German design was a pain in neck to try to work on. The Jowett Javelin, 1948-1953, had an excellent engine and one that was remarkably advanced for its time. The same motor won the Jowett Jupiter the 1.5 litre class in three successive Le Mans 24 hour races back in the early fifties and about that time, the Javelin, like the later Mini won the Monaco Rally. From experience the Javelin motor was extremely tough; the 1983 Subaru flat four was an updated copy and also was a good motor with identical characteristics to the Javelin engine. Modern engines are totally different and are remarkable. But when that computer bit fails.........
You are excellent mechanics, and you have a nice clean orderly shop. I used to service all British cars from 1936 to 1980. It is a pleasure to see such beautifully kept cars.
Better still, rather than knock f**k out the flywheel with hammer, do the job properly and extract the 2 dowels first using suitable oversize socket and bolt with long thread to pull them out. Simple matter to then give flywheel light tap to knock it off the crank flange. (Note: flywheel is heavy - if working single handed leave one of the ten 3/4 AF bolts screwed loosely in place to hold flywheel once it releases from flange.)
Seriously Who down Thumbs this fantastic information from these experienced mechanics? They're doing a great job of videoing and telling us whats going on! This is awesome and valuable information. Thank you for doing this hard work and sharing it with us!
Thanks for the encouragement. Going to get this engine running very soon.
"If you don't have anything nice to say, then don't say anything at all"
Best quote EVER(!).
@Bob Green Reported as spam :D
+Phil... Yes. YT is an awesome repository of knowledge and experience that was simply unavailable before 2006!
I was doing a job on a car the other day and it was something really weird that not everyone would be doing having to do with swapping out wires on a connector on a window switch and i told myself "i sure could use some help with this but there is no video out there showing how to do this, couldn't be" but low and behold there was one (1) video on RUclips, incredible. @@tarstarkusz
Brilliant mechanic always got that hammer in the hand.
Worked on these engines back in the 60s when they were new. Many thanks for a walk down memory lane.....
use 50% acetone and 50% transmission oil as rust breaker will even free seized rings. Old School better than any penetrant or marvel mystery oil. would of worked on studs, I have done several Jags.
On the head stud bolts use the valve method to keep locations of the studs accurate. Piece of cardboard with the studs arranged in the proper pattern as they come out.
Good idea, I have all new studs to fit.
Exactly .... Make a LIST But not a Bucket List ....
Prying on that bolt is a good way to break that casting.
Everything has a torque specification
Talking about using that bolt in the block as a fulcrum to pry on the flywheel. You risk breaking the casting.
@@josephcivita1450 I'd only expect that to happen if there were casting defects in the material. I doubt he's applying enough force to break metal.
As it turns out, not that good. He's probably done it before.
I thought that but remembered I have done the same myself a few times.
Makes me think the Brits designed this with lots of influence from the aircraft engine industry.
The red stuff is a casting sealant to prevent oil impregnation of the casting and more importantly to be a corrosion resistant.
I keep thinking, "don't pry on the teeth!!!"
Also, don't hit the teeth.
You need some pullers. Just saying.
lots of comments from people who are obviously not from a mechanical background, or practical experience. .
Same engine, 4.2 Liter, found on my 1972 XJ6. Thanks for making this video.
There must be a better way to try and rotate the engine?! Prying on the starter ring in raising my blood pressure, through the screen. Lol
P.s. I know that necessity forces unfavorable circumstances to be used at times, so I do completely understand. : )
luckily nothing broke, those ring gears are really strong
I know. Jesus Christ
Joshua Collins... and what would you recommend? the starter motor uses it every time you press the button.. perfectly acceptable method, best done using a decent bolt into the top threaded holes. best use 2 . and 2 levers, rocking it back and forth. I'd rather they freed it off before removing the flywheel.
I was gonna say that,could use a nice grade 8 bolt or something strong, every time i saw that bolt flex i was like nooo,the gentleman was being very careful so it wasn't like some kid standing on the prybar or hitting it with a hammer,easy does it. @@captainboggles
There is a tool for holding the flywheel. Tools for everything.lol. It’s a complete tear-down. Just pull it apart. You will find the stuck parts, eventually. Been there done that! Great shape for an old engine.
Can you imagine how long it would take to document the knowledge that your dad has on how to work on this engine?
The "G" on the top deck is apparently the bore size. Should be one for each cyl. Original pistons should be one size up from bore, "H" in this case. Info from another youtube video so maybe OK! Sorry if this is repeat info, I can't read 175 comments (+replies) to check.
Here is youtube that discusses bore grade/size- thanks youtube for edit feature.
ruclips.net/video/Qo96pQZ5Y78/видео.html
I have always love those engines because of the design. That paint by the way is armature paint that the use in generators. That ol girl is in great shape buddy and you got a heck of a deal on it. I assume you know how to check the ware on the timing gears. They dont look real bad at all but worn a bit. I figure about 30-40,000 miles on it. Good video chum.
Someone else pointed out that was lead paint and helped seal in any residual casting sand.
That engine was beautiful and new looking!!
Fella lucked out is not an english expression but for us it implies that you were unlucky...//
Pry bar on the starter ring? Ugh I don't like that,
yep... got any better ideas?
I will be doing this. I’m inspired now. Thank you
painting the inside of the crankcase with red lead paint was to protect the metal and 'improve viscosity?' twas a typically british thing. When red lead primer was banned in NZ we switched to zinc chromate primer. until that too was banned.
@Sam Babbitt glyptol, armature paint was paint of preference for race car engine builders in the sixties and seventies, sealed the block and increased oil flow on drainback.
About the painted engine block: I learned that high quality machines and engines are factory painted inside to prevent any left over sand corns or particles from the casting process to fall off. Sometimes engine cases were sandblasted after the casting sand was removed. That is what an old mechanical engeíneering professor told me. Mercedes-Benz says in their documents it is done to "bind the cast iron molecules" whatever that means :-)
Interesting, did not know that. Thanks for sharing.
Why didn't you take the sump off and sprayed the cylinder bores from the bottom?
ALU...MIN..IUM say it slowly if you still struggle with it..just change the spelling to the yank version..same as COLOUR..METRE.. LITRE
just dont ever go near HYDROMINIUM the alloy that Rolls Royce invented..great video anyway. yes ..no S..on anyway
When you rebuild always replace all studs and bolts that are put under a heavy torque.
Brilliant. I only just came across this. I like how you are so cautious with the hows and whys of the next bit of the disassembly. Now I'm off to watch the next bit :)
Invest in a set of gear pullers instead of hoping the prybar and hammer do not damage your parts
I'm amazed that flywheel would come off that way at ALL usually those and the crank pully, are stuck on the crank with a death-grip that nothing short of dynamite and/or the gear puller would budge -
Removed the head studs without too much issue? That is fortunate and as you say you 'lucked out'. Good to see. Will have to watch the rest of this series now......B-)
i saw a chap heat a pan of motor oil and poured it in the cylinders and it unstuck prety quick
I like that idea.
That's weird how those flywheel bolts are so close to each other, most flywheels have 6 bolts or so, this one has 10,thats awesome!!
Amazing how many bolts the Engineers put on that Flywheel. Heat stuck parts, you will be surprised. My 2 pennies.
You didn't 'luck out' with the studs double nut technique, you 'lucked in'.. (To 'luck out..' is to fail..)
Actually I think it means the opposite thing depending on where you are from. In the UK it means "out of luck" but in the US it means "got lucky"
@@JM-oo3rb I think you're right :) No biggie I just thought that maybe it originated in the UK.. (Maybe not..)
Never mess with an English major.
I have to compliment you on producing a well made and detailed Video Recording.
Once I watched the most interesting 'Episode One', I was compelled to watch the second.
I have yet to watch the remaining episodes.
Some very interesting comments too, all in all I learned something from the experiences
of others.
Just to think; when that E Type Jaguar was made I was age 9.
Always liked the E Type.
When my dad sold the Ford Zodiac and was out looking for a replacement it was down
to a Mercedes Benz and Jaguar ... He bought a Mark ll in British Racing Green.
When I was 13 I was attending College to learn Motor Mechanics, as it so happened
Jaguar were donating Coventry Climax Racing Engines and other Jaguar Engines.
There are a few stories I could tell, much too long to write here.
Though one interesting story of the husband of a cousin who owned a nice dark Silver
color 3.8 Mark ll, having taken the engine apart for some kind of repairs, and after
re-asssembly discovering that it was shooting flames out of the carburettor.
I said to him that he has transp[osed the two cam shafts ---
His attitude was 'What would a 14 year old know?'
Years later his wife admitted that I was correct after he towed the car to a
Mechanic. All that of course was in Leicester England, Coventry being 27 miles / 43 Km South
of Leicester City.
Anyway he has been dead three decades or so, so what does it matter.
Anyway I guess he died happy in that he enjoyed his variety alcohol poisons.
As for me ... I don't touch the stuff.
Many thanks for making these interesting and informative videos of your experience
with this Engine. Brings back memories for sure.
You won another subscriber.
Great to have you along Andrew, would like to do a MKII at some point.
At 5:50. "Aluminum oil pan". This is a British unit. It is an "Aluminium oil pan", thank you Mr Yank. Get your metals correct!
@Alan Torrance
Actually ALUMINUM is correct ..
As the metal starts with being BAUXITE -> ALUMINA -> ALUMINUM
It does not go from BAUXITE to ALIMINIA ... Get it?
And Mr Yank is CANADIAN - So you got that wrong also.
Which is not surprising. So get the point.
The part in English is sump.
actually, the original term was 'Aluminum' m... but the british changed it so it would fit into the periodic table. ...
um, all the plates you catch glimpses of are BC plates, so going out on a limb that would make him NOT a yank!
Your father is the real deal !!
I see from the background shots that you have a super collection of British sports cars!
I see Mg’s all over the place. No triumphs! What’s up with that?
The lack of wear on this engine is stunning. This engine obviously was well taken care of and/or didn't have a lot of use before it sat. Beautiful.
262 JAG is the CI stamp for the block. Back then Britain were still using Inches and Feet etc.
Question, @17:56 you said that you were just going to leave the chain guides. Why wouldn't you just replace them since you are so far into this job? I am at this decision point. Any advice is appreciated.
I'm late, but I can explain the paint on the inside. This coming from an old CAT engine guy. CAT would put a ceramic-like coating on the oil area of the block. The cast iron would weep oil externally, over time. The coating prevented that.
Absolutely fascinating and informative video..thank you for sharing this with us
Hello,,,,,for my Triumph TR6. I bought a stud remover,,,,,I'd never heard of such a tool,,,,,,,but Amazon have them,,,,fits on your ratchet,,,,
seems like levering off the flange is risky
Possible, never cracked one there.
Great project but sadly the actual work isn't filmed. I'd much rather see the work as it's being done rather than this before and after format.
that engine looks to be in great shape
at 19:13 in the video, there's a bolt into the side of the casting for the distributor shaft, i was thinking it needed to be loosened to remove the shaft, being a locator with the end riding in a groove maybe, but now i bet it's a block off for an oil passage to the distributor shaft? also, with the motor locked, would just loosening the distributor drive gear nut put too much pressure on the gears? you said "getting kind of hasty" but your method turned out well. thank you for making this video.
That bolt locates the distributor drive shaft bush. Those gear nuts are usually really stuck and I wouldn't bet the drive gear on them.
Wish I could work with you guys to learn more about engine. Love them!!
19:40 -- I would describe them as dogs or lugs??
Interesting watching this but please invest in a tripod so you don't have to stop filming, do the work, and then film the results.
Yeah I know what you mean, this was pretty lazy filming. Part 4 will be better I promise :)
Jeff in Toronto
FILM has not been used fro decades Jeff.
Video Recordings have been made on digital equipment.
Recording on to FILM (aka: Filming) is finished, Over.
You like many others have been successfully indoctrinated (aka: Brainwashed)
into using the term Filming that you CANNOT get it out of your head.
This is a human condition .. People are EASILY MANIPULATED.
Just use the word RECORDING [ meaning : keeping a record of ]
That way you will not have to use outdated TERMINOLOGY.
Dear Andrew, frankly, who gives a toss? Nobody but you. Your grammar is questionable, let alone your spelling. Love from a Kraut.
The Red Paint is Red Lead
Amazing how clean the inside of the engine is. I’ve seen modern V-8’s with 80,000 miles with way more varnish and crud in the oil pan. This engine must not have that many miles on it.
I agree! Driven only on Sunday’s and maintained well.
Jaguar tool-tip: if it doesn't move, use a bigger hammer.
Ross’s tip: Use heat and penetrating oil.
fill the bores with diesel and leave over night
Hello sir. What the differences between engine of E.type 4.2 & xj6??? Cylinder block, head, valves size, piston shape, cam shafts??? Why etype 4.2 makes 280-300 hp but XJ6 makes 150-160 hp
XJ6 4.2 Series 1 is very similar. Some items like the oil pan, exhaust manifolds and oil filter housing are different.
@@RichardMichaelOwen tnx sir🙋🙏
You know why the Britts don't make computers?
They never figured out how to get them to leak oil.
"Don't make them"? .... they invented them.
Actually the true definition of a british mechanic is a guy with 6 inch hands and 12 inch fingers. Rear seals on large English engines, Rustons, Bellis and Morcom, Paxmans, Napier Deltic. So on most British engines the money was made by selling speciality tools.
vanpenguin22 The Jags use to leak in showroom .
🤣🤣🤣🤣good one!!!
@@twotone3070
CORRRECT
People imagine that everything was invented in the USA. Clearly it was not.
Many an invention the USA copied from the British.
The Computer was known as ' Colossus '
There was also a movie made entitled ' Colosus '
The Colossus Computer is recognized as being the world's first programmable, electronic, digital computer. Developed around 1942.
As an Electronics Engineer (ex-Philips & ex- Military) I know this stuff very well.
Night mare on E-street.
Do you push oil pressure before you try to turn the Engine the first time we use a preluber..
for sure, that video is coming up
Do you happen to know what the meaning of SHF means on the main bearing caps ?
This seems a low mileage engine. Great news for you.
Yeah, I thought I was going to open a junk engine
On the earliest XK engines, the letter stamped on the deck, outboard of each cylinder, corresponded to a letter stamped on each piston crown. If the letters still correspond, then the engine still has its original pistons. This later engine may be similarly stamped.
British engineering hit it with a hammer
What brand is that heavy duty rachet with which your dad took that stuck stud??
The weird one is a Wera Joker
This engine make 265 HP
Subscribed! :)
The reason that they paint the inside of the engine block is to prevent oil from seeping through the engine block. I believe that is because the cast iron is porous.
Ah so that's why I love the smell of old Jags the oil burning :P Glyptal engine coating !
Sadly another of those jewels left the country. Hope to god she will return to Blighty in the near future.
Spigot bush in crank.
Spigot bush = pilot bushing?
I used to do jobs like this with old motorcycle engines. When I removed stuck nuts, bolts, studs, I would tap on the ends, then, twist off, twist on, pound on the end and repeat until it broke loose. The reason to do so is that the rust forms a bond between the two surfaces, but it is very brittle. Once it is broken lolose, it is wise to unscrew, screw on, unscrew and so on. The rust particles can acts like key between two tight fitting surfaces. Reversion the rotation unlocks the keys and allows the nut to turn a bit more before it locks up again. Also, applying too much torque can twist and then break the stud, Ouch. Another help is to bath the joints with WD 40. This lubricates the stuck surfaces and partially softens some of the rust particles. I some times would apply the WD 40 and then go do something else, like go to bed, and then come back the next day. Another improvement pulling the rotation parts off a shaft is to use wheel puller when possible. Tapping on only one side can cock the part. As with the nuts and bolts, pull it off a little, then push it back on and so on. I learned, early on, that a good part of being a good mechanic was knowing how hard to hit things. The videos are very well done and edited, showing only actual important steps and omitting the boring parts between. I once had a dream of sectioning a XK 120 engine cleaning it up shiny, putting in a display case in my living room. My wife would have objected. An antique engine next to her antique furniture did not appeal to her. She could not see the beauty in an engine.
I use liquid wrench, repeat and let soak for a few days. Works all the time! Stand part up, let gravity do the work.
Britain was still kinda Great when these were built...
that timing tensioner and guide looks almost identical to the Saturn/Vauxhall
Is that a german wrench? I can't remember the brand.
Wera Joker
If you use Tri-flow, that will free your engine.
dont replace the studs with bolts, they were made that way for a reason.
What part of Canada are you guys from?
Fantastic 👍🏻
so your dissi tool is set in one posi,??.dont distributers turn,or is the wrench welded to it.seems wierd.
I would make fixed. “usually” the engine will turn, to facilitate the removal of the off-set drive gear/shaft. I’m a hobby machinist, I can make tools, always out of steel.
"Red paint" is likely Glyptol.
I dont know much about Jags, so forgive my dumbass question. I thought 'E' types had 12 cylinders?
They had both.
The original 'E' types were all 4.2 litre straight six engines. The 5.3 litre V12 was only fitted to the Series III cars
The first ones had 3.6 (maybe 3.2??), then 4.2 straight sixes - The V12 5.3's were mainly export and I think had a lower top speed! The V12 5.3 engine was also used in the XJS. As a kid I grew up with these engines but mounted in XJ6's and were magical to be driven about in. I bought a series 2 XJ6 4.2 back in the eighties with an auto box - I could put it in drive and without any throttle would quickly get up to 25-30 MPH!
Tony Eezi Original Series 1 E Type (XKE for the US market) were 3.8 litre straight six.
nope... 3.8l , then 4.2. series 1,2 and 3, (this is probably a series 3) The v12 5.3 were last, including 'commemoration series' . awful engine, never worked hard enough to run clean. when i lived in Canada, worked on these, , would never go thru emissions (dirty engine) had to half fill tank with ethanol to make them run hot enough to pass emissions.
Did you break a piece off when levering the gear off the crank?
I don't think so.
I guess I skipped ahead of this
Why did British car manufacturers prefer studs to bolts to tie down the head and block? These are long and so can easily stretch with the engine heat and the nuts do not have as much holding pressure than bolts. Also the studs passing through the water jacket?? About that oil sump hose (@5.15) why did they not use a metal tube. The timing chain drive mechanism seems a bit overboard too, but I will follow up on your next videos.
This was the days before camshafts were driven with a rubber band - one of the worst ideas I have ever come across for driving a vital part of the engine. Rubber belts are used because they are cheap and you don'y need to run them in an oil bath as you doe with a chain. The rubber belts break whereas timing chains stretch. When the belt breaks the valves usually have an argument with the pistons (which win!). Result is bent valves and often cracked valve guides. It is easy to tell when a timing chain stretches as the engine noise changes and the problem can be sorted before any serious damage is done.
The rubber hose is used rather than a metal tube to give flexibility and allow for expansion. A metal tube secured at both ends and subject to vibration will inevitably fail due to fatigue. When it breaks all the oil comes out under pressure - pretty catastrophic if it happens at speed and new engine required. Rubber hoses tend to leak long before they fail.
@@johnspencer6270 Engine designs have changed a lot, these modern engines are more fast revving than the older units. A cam belt arrangement drive suits these engines as a belt requires less energy than a heavier chain to go around(dynamic). Less noise and no lube needed, and ancillaries like water pump come with the belt change service interval.Its just that the belt change service must be followed to prevent engine damage.
For the manufacturers, the cost of production is low and easy for belts.
head studs don't stretch with heat. .. and torqueing down a head to 80 ft'lbs when the thread may be in an ali block is asking for a strip. besides , to torque a bolt that is 15" long into ali is nonsense. nuts have just as much holding capability as bolt, especially as in these engines the nuts are about 1" deep. .. you seem to ask a lot of pointless questions, like why use a rubber drain hose?... WHO CARES? the engine is 50 years old.. the people who built it and designed it are all dead. . You're obviously not a mechanic, .. stick to question that show a little savvy. ..
@@captainboggles Continental and Japanese auto manufacturers always use bolts for torquing the head, you will only find studs in British vehicles. I have owned and worked on Mercedes Benzs, Nissan/Datsun, Mini Mk1, and a host of mainly Japanese vehicles over the years. I find that British vehicles do have weak engineering. They are only good in trim and interior - just like your average Jaguar or Rolls Royce - but when it comes to engine design or electrics, they fail miserably. History testifies to this.
For your information, I have a diploma in Automobile Mechanics and BSc in Mechanical Engineering.
Studs/bolts for holding down the head. It depends what kind of steel either is made of.The same quality of steel of the same length and diametre would stretch the same for the same amount of heat, whether stud or bolt.Whether stud or bolt, a hole has to be drilled in the block. British engine design and electrics. In the good old days of the Morris Oxford both were remarkably robust and pleasantly simple. The early Nissan/Datsun motor was based on the Morris 1000 motor. My old BMW used studs and being of German design was a pain in neck to try to work on. The Jowett Javelin, 1948-1953, had an excellent engine and one that was remarkably advanced for its time. The same motor won the Jowett Jupiter the 1.5 litre class in three successive Le Mans 24 hour races back in the early fifties and about that time, the Javelin, like the later Mini won the Monaco Rally. From experience the Javelin motor was extremely tough; the 1983 Subaru flat four was an updated copy and also was a good motor with identical characteristics to the Javelin engine. Modern engines are totally different and are remarkable. But when that computer bit fails.........
You are excellent mechanics, and you have a nice clean orderly shop. I used to service all British cars from 1936 to 1980. It is a pleasure to see such beautifully kept cars.
4:00 the other side as well, man!!!
Better still, rather than knock f**k out the flywheel with hammer, do the job properly and extract the 2 dowels first using suitable oversize socket and bolt with long thread to pull them out. Simple matter to then give flywheel light tap to knock it off the crank flange. (Note: flywheel is heavy - if working single handed leave one of the ten 3/4 AF bolts screwed loosely in place to hold flywheel once it releases from flange.)
GREAT SERIES!! WHAT BRAND ARE THOSE WRENCHES??
Are you talking about the ratcheting wrench, it's an old Wera Joker I picked up on sale.
@@RichardMichaelOwen YES -- THAT IS IT----VERY PRICEY OVER HERE IN US.---THX
Couldn't you have hooked up the starter to free it up?
Not enough torque, this motor was essentially rusted in place
@@RichardMichaelOwen ah fair enough, love the show and watched lots of your videos today. Reminds me of the detail we went to in school
wish we could actually see the work being done instead of before and after
If you keep watching this whole thing goes back together.
why not do our own engine. best way to learn.