Best Oil & Additive For Diesel Engines
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
- Best diesel engine oil and additives for Duramax, Powertroke, or Cummins! How to get to 1 million miles out of your diesel engine
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A huge factor for the longevity of this Million mile engine is the operating regime. 10k in a week means very few cold starts. In the old days, Mercedes handed out badges for every 250k and most taxis with the famous 4 and 5 cyinder pre-chamber diesels had several of them stuck on the radiator grille. Those engines were not shut off for several days as several drivers would operate the same taxi owned by the dispatcher. The current Mercedes-Benz High Mileage champ is Gregorios Sachinidis, a Greek taxi driver who holds the known record of more than 2.8 million miles in his 1976 Mercedes-Benz 240D. I can guarantee that he did not use the current Lucas additive.
Rotella is premium stuff - no argument there. We need a comparison between two identical trucks, driven in a very similar way, one with Lucas the other one without to see what difference the additive makes.
If anything, I'd be concerned by the change in diesel fuel that supposedly got rid of many of the lubricants so that's the main reason why I've heard people recommend addititves.
I didn’t believe in additives. But i didn’t have a diesel since the change. I kep getting a lean code in my psd and then i was f it and added some seafoam to the fuel and then started an opti lube xl. Code went away and not even as a pending code. Milage from 15.2 to 17.1-17.3 mpg. So you tell me.
A Mercedes 5 cyl that powers a 4000lb car vs this 5.9 moving 25k pounds is not the same thing
@Jim Barrows Around here we have the Flashlube Diesel Conditioner that truckies use. Some operators can't live without it and buy it in bulk for their fleets. One claim is that it gets you one gear better going uphill. I don't necessarily believe that, but I use it myself mainly to keep the injection pump and injectors in good nick. I prefer to stay away from oil additives entirely though. Diesel oils are already high in anti-wear additives because they're exempt from phosphorous limits, so adding an oil stabiliser (usually extra ZDDP and thickener) just upsets the chemistry for no good reason.
@claus that diesel was also running in the era before ultra low sulfur diesel. That was a big changing point as it took all the lubrication out of diesel.
Gotta love when you watch deboss's video and he tells you to use the additive and oil that you've been using all along👌
"There's a million mile 6.0 or 6.4 out there but I think big foot drives it." I have to start taking notes of all the shit diesel people say.
Actually the 6.0 has a few million mile guys only one not bulletproofed
Difference is for every million mile 6.0 theres 400 million mile cummins
@Jim Barrows He means the myth bigfoot not the actual monster truck.
@@freedom24v86 More like a few million mile dashes that have been in 10 different trucks.
Any diesel engine will last a long time if youre not being a knobhead riding around in it everyday. I have 140k on my 2008 6.4 and 265k on my 2002 f550 and well over 2 million miles on a 3406b that uses no oil etc etc.
My uncle has a 5.3 gas motor with 600k miles on it
Up here in salty Minnesota you'd have a hard time finding a Dodge with a worn out Cummins that still has a body left.
Or a dashboard left
I've seen them go trough 3 bodies on a truck that was oil sprayed every year (Ontario)
I don't think there a state north of the Mason-Dixon line that hasn't eaten multiple Dodge Ram trucks. I saw dodge from Tennessee that had the road salt cancer. Pretty rough if you don't try to mitigate the damage.
Well, hes in salty Ontario... so.... not much difference
@john m I don't think there's any vehicle in Minnesota that has a good body with a motor
I've been a mechanic for 42 years now with most of that time as a mechanic working for construction companies and fleet operations.
I worked for a large asphalt paving contractor doing roads and large parking lots when I first got into heavy equipment repair. They had over 100 pieces of equipment and a dozen or so pickup trucks.
The equipment ran from small riding compactors to Cat D9s, Scrappers, loaders tracked excavators, large air compressors running 6 cylinder diesel engines.
When they switched from petroleum lubricants to Amsoil products through the entire line from the office runner car to the heavy equipment and class 8 trucks. We switched everything to Amsoil, engine lube oil, transmission fluid, gear oil, hydraulic oil, grease and used their filters.
The company kept very detailed maintenance logs on every thing.
At the end of the 1st year they saw cost reduction on oil changes intervals extended on the oils ( we no longer changed oils by hours or miles but pulled oil samples at set intervals and changed only when reports showed )
The savings in cost reduction paid off in the 1st year the cost of the Amsoil products. Next was a major reduction in down time, lost time, major increase in production time per machine and a huge savings in fuel cost.
Ever machine ran longer on the same amount of fuel. The dump trucks and haul trucks all saw on average of 2 to 4 mpg increase.
Same with the pickup trucks and the cars.
After 3 years of running Amsoil they charted a 40% maintenance cost reduction about the same in fuel purchases, 60% increase in production per machine with a corresponding reduction repair cost.
Why, because Amsoil is one of the few oils that are tier 5 oils. Regular oils are tier 3, the on the shelves synthetic oils are most all tier 4 oils, which before the oil industry lobbied the FTC to allow the name game.
Meaning that companies can claim their products synthetic even when it really is not.
Tier 4 oils are refined to a higher level with an advanced additives package blended in. Under the old standard the label would have been " para synthetic oil"
Tier 5 oils are not from petroleum
In the case of Amsoil they design the oil from the molecular level up.
They do everything in house to control the quality.
Looking at petroleum oils through a microscope it looks like goathead stickers. Looking at Amsoil you see prefectly round molecules that leads directly to reduced friction.
Amsoil film strength is 10 times stronger than petroleum oils which makes the oil highly resistant to shear under high loading.
Further there are no impurities in Amsoil like with petroleum oils.
Amsoil pour point is far superior to petroleum oils meaning on those cold sub zero morning start ups the oil flows easily getting to the bearings faster. 50 of engine wear happens in the 1st 30 seconds of operation due to the oil having to reach all moving parts.
Amsoil ability to cling to surfaces are suprior at 10,000miles on the oil than petroleum oil right out of the bottle. That leads to reduced wear inside the engine.
Amsoil is far more stable at both cold extremes and high temperature extremes.
I started using Amsoil products 30 years ago because of what I saw working for the paving contractor. I use it in everything I own.
And many customers through the years switch to Amsoil as well.
When running Amsoil engine oil or ATF in automatic transmission by adding in their oil filter system the oil change intervals go way up.
I've personally had customers who never changed the oil.
They would have an oil sample tested once a year just before they changed the filters. Changing the bypass filters once a year or 25,000 miles, change the engine mounted filter every 6 months or 12,500 miles and keep going until the oil testing says to change it.
I have put well over 100,000 miles on the oil before changing.
Also due to the oils being so stable they resist breaking down, and burn off far better than petroleum oils.
Changing to Amsoil can be done even in high mileage engines.
When I do that for a new customer I 1st run Amsoil engine flush in the engine per the labe.
Oil consumption also drops in engines that we're burning oil.
I have had nothing but great experience with Amsoil products as well as my customers.
Hope this helps.
obviously a Amsoil snakeoil salesman.regular oil changes is the best policy,not need for this overpriced shit Amsoil.
@@mariomartin1981 shows how clueless you are.
Catch up with the times.
typical AMSOIL SNAKE OIL salesman,, i've built racing engines for 30 years,your Amsoil is all about HYPE,,nothing more,just brainwashing owners who really dont know too much,and PAYING big names to endorse your crap.
I have on 2002 5.9 2wd auto trans - I bought it with 450,000 km - my friends and family thought I lost my mind. I don't drive a ton, but it now has 650 on it. Runs like a top! It hauls my 5th wheel and my boat and is my daily driver. LOVE my truck! I've only ever used Rotella - and now will be adding Lucas! My older brothers 5.9 had close to a million when it got in o a collision and wrecked. I will have this truck til the day I die!!
And I imagine you probably paid way way way less than for a new truck that would be a gamble these days to get 200,000 km out of it. New trucks are in and out of the dealer with a ton of warranty issues.
I’ve always ran Shell Rotella in my diesels. Using 5w40 synthetic now. I’ve always used Mobil 1 5w20 and Lucas engine oil treatment in my 2004 Honda. It now has 485,600 miles on it and I bought it new!
Got 950000 on my 7.3 all stock 1 owner its all in how you drive and how well you maintenance your truck.
rusty aucoin,ii
I also have a 1999 7.3 I bought used at 280k miles I’m curious how you maintained your truck and what has gone wrong along the way. What oil did you use, intervals, additives and how you drove it and what it’s mainly used for? Thanks, Alex
Maintenance is the biggest, also just standard modifications to make them more reliable
Had a 7.3 plow rig with 525,xxx when I sold it to a kid in the neighborhood
Word!
I had one with 650k on it. Frame finally rusted out. Over 10 yrs later motor is still running an irrigation pump.
My family has always just used TCW3 2 stroke oil in the fuel. three trucks with 1.5+ million on them. Pretty great for pre-emissions diesel's IMO!
As an individual who works at a Ford dealership as a diesel mechanic, I've grown a new hatred of the 6.0/6.4 powerstrokes. Mostly because it's pretty much all I get to work on. They are complete junk and I have my doubts that even Bigfoot could squeeze a million miles out of one. But that's just my two cents
I also work at a diesel shop and hate fords, the way i see it is they keep us in business . Thanks ford👍
When work is running low, you can count on ford to bring you business.
Mainly the 6.0/6.4's. 7.3's never come in where I'm at
Just because you don’t know how to make a 6 liter live, don’t trash the engine. I’ve got close to 140,000 miles on my 06 powerstroke and never had an engine failure, other than an egr valve. Still on my original turbo and injectors.
I've grown new hatred for all Fords, they suck! I have f-350 gas truck other than the engine everything goes wrong with it.
My Good friend has a 96 f350 with a 7.3 it is 1.45 million km on it still running strong never been rebuilt
My 90 12v has 900,000 on it. only run rotella . Changed every 5000 miles the engins is dynoed at 254 hp .love my Cummins
Hmm every 5k miles, your pockets much be deep :)
I will say I've always used shell rotella t6 in every diesel I've ever had and my family has ever had and I have never had an issue what so ever in my opinion as a heavy equipment mechanic shell rotella t6 is by far the best diesel engine oil out there
I run the same oil and additive in my 03 lb7 k3500hd. I'm the 2nd owner and the truck has been used for hot shotting since it was new. 1 set of injectors and 1 cracked head/ head gaskets and a turbo in 850k miles or 1.3 million km. Everyone that hears the miles on it says bs but with the fass 150 lift pump and dedication to maintenance, it's perfectly doable. What's more shocking than the miles on the motor is the fact it is the original allison 5 speed in the truck. every 2 oil changes the spin on filter was changed and every 200k miles the internal filter and fluid was changed. All fuel filters changed every other oil change and the truck is still going strong.
I'm running a 6bt with 450,000 kms and using Shell Rotella T4 15W40, second owner for the last 10 years. Runs like new with no signs of wear.
Rotella synthetic for me. 2009 Cummins Runs great, tons of power. All deleted efi live tune. No stupid smoke garbage. Love my dodge best truck I ever owned.
I used to haul for a living with a 2003 Duramax, there are actually a lot of Duramax Diesels with over a million miles.
I bought a 74 Chevy C10 with a 454 and 103,000 miles on it. Previous owner said he used oil in the green jug but never said what brand it was.
Due to the age of the gaskets and the flat tappet cam I started asking for oil recommendations. Have a trucker friend who routinely gets a million+ miles out of an engine before having an in-frame done and he recommended Rotella 15-40. His last Cummins ISX had 1.4 million miles on it when it had an in-frame rebuild and the mechanic told him the rod and main bearings were good enough to be re-used. Of course they weren't reused but the mechanic was impressed with the condition of the engine. Seems a lot of hot rodders also use Rotella for big block gas motors so I switched.
The "green jug" oil the PO had been using didn't look dirty but now that I'm using Rotells I've increased the OCI because it gets dirty quick - like black in 500 miles quick. I figure the detergents are cleaning out 44 years of sludge so as long as it keeps turning black I'll keep changing it. I've done 3-4 oil changes with Rotella and the oil is now staying cleaner longer so I take as a good indication it's working.
We used to use Shell but now that we've shifted to Amsoil our mileage increased and it quieted down as well. We have extended our changes to 15K miles and are loving it. I personally feel most oil today is advanced, although I would like to see the protection (zinc) in oil today so the cams in my muscle cars never had issues, there have been extreme advancements from just about every company.
@Aidan callen '07 Megacab, '09 quad cab (both 5.7s), '91 Cummins & '15 Cummins
I just bought an 02 7L powerstroke. Its sitting handsomely at 400k, I will push her past 1 million ! thanks for the knowledge
We had a '97 Cummins that my dad gave to my uncle at just north of 1.3 million kms and he used it on the farm and in the bush for about 4 more years until he gave it to someone else this spring. I think itll be on the 9th transmission now though.
Rotella, Rotella, Rotella. I sneak in a couple of oil samples at my work, (12 Waukesha V12 gens the size of RVs ). And after a year our engineers came in wanting to audit us because they thought we weren't running the "#12 gen" as often as documented, after logging the engine hours I came clean on it and they said that those samples never broke down , after I got a CAM for it, they now use all Rotella
My father-in-law had an old international truck with whatever 13litre engine Cat produced in the late 80s. It never was rebuilt but he always used Rotella and he swears by Lucas and puts it in everything. He sold the truck with 1.8 million km about 6 years ago. It currently still runs well with about 2.4
I have always wondered what these million mile cummins drivers used for oil so thanks rich
I work for Cummins in the U.K. Our train fleets run QSK19 engines at 700hp on high speed trains. They run them to 33000 hours (nearly 2 million miles) and they only use Valvoline oil changed every 24000 miles. Engines are usually in good condition when they get removed for overhaul. I put some of that down to Cummins developing Valvoline for there own engine's.👍
For my Duramax lly I used rotella 15-40 until I tried Mobil delvac 15-40. The delvac made my truck run quieter and smoother. For the diesel additive fppf makes the best additives in my opinion. I can tell when I don't have the treatment in the fuel. This is what works best for my lly. I'm always working my truck also I use it for work every day it's pulling 15k lbs or more stop and go
I use the Mobil Delvac in my 15 LML! I've done Lucas and Hotshots in the fuel so far. No oil additives yet. Was gonna try HotShots FR3 oil additive soon.
WhipGame914 I’ve tried the fr3 on my 6.7 Cummins didn’t really feel any diff but I’m now using motorkote and been running the edt from hotshot secret in my diesel tank...so far feels smooth !
I have pulled 50,000 lbs with my 2014 Ram 3500HD with a 6.7 Cummins before. It has 138,000 miles on it (still a baby) and the only issue it has is the DEF system (go figure...). Here's the kicker, it's a single rear tire truck, not a dually. I had an aftermarket airbag system installed in the rear end with a remote air control system. It has never let me down. I just pulled a 36,000 lb gooseneck at 80 mph for 4.5 hours the other day with it. I LOVE my Dodge.
What kind of oil do you run ?
@@JuanVazquez-gg8nc I typically run Rotella 15w40 with a bottle of STP oil treatment.
Wow I wanna see that scale ticket and video.
What air bag system do you run?
@@jnk26 he know he lying a single wheel 3500 pulling 50k lbs 🤣 come on now he know he lying a not even a dually can pull that 30k lbs is more believable but 50k without blowing the transmission is not possible.
I had a 94 f250 that hit 750000km, still ran but used almost as much oil as fuel lol Iv always used Lucas in everything, I drive old worn out crap and it keeps them going for much longer than they should
2002 Chevy HD 2500 I haul RVs as well little over 800,000 kilometers bought the truck brand new Shell Rotella 15 w40 and Lucas Oil additive use stana dyne fuel additive still running strong lb7 Duramax no tune swap the injectors out once.
Ontario Cash Crop farmer nice
Ontario Cash Crop farmer nice.
FYI for those in the us that's 500,000 miles.
t5 or t4? nobody mentions which the get these huge numbers with.
Jack S i use t6. But I am way up North.
same transmission?
I run Delo 400, 15w - 40w and I have had great luck with it.
All Ford Powerstroke trucks since 1997.
Changed my oil and filters @7500 miles.
That is the oil I’m using in my cummins
This is a testament to maintenance not to BG oil additives but,,,,, back in the eighties my first job was at a gas station and when we weren't doing anything we pulled in all the fleet equipment and serviced and added BG products one for the antifreeze water pump Lube,, engine oil lube,, transfer case rear ends,,, always we added BG,,, the 76 Chevy 4 wheel drive which was the worker( Hefty half) 350 Chevy everything stock,, long story short that truck had a little over three 300,000 original mi ,,crappy Chevy timing chain with plastic gears original transfer case chain,,, thing ran as good as it was new he sold it when he was going out of business that truck was on the road for years after that,,,, now I swear by putting ATF in your older diesel fuel engines ATF half a quart in the engine oil every
I had a 4BT Cummins in a 20 kw gen set in Alaska and I got 43,000 hours out of it. I used dello 400 and was quite satisfied. 43,000 hours is like 2.15 million miles if it was in a truck. It finally broke a valve spring and I had to shut it off.
John Deere Plus 50 ll 15W-40 and Archoil in my 07’ 6.0 Powerstroke F-350. 500,000 miles and climbing.
Gee Wizz what a machine!! I thought my old 02 mustang gt had lots of miles on it?? At 330,000.0miles got as left over in Feb 03 drove every day sents!! Zero trouble with Mobil1 10w30 syn and Motocraft filters!!!
The Company I used to work for had a 2007 (Classic Body Style) Crew Cab Long Bed 3500 Dually 4x4 with the 6.6 Duramax LBZ (Vin D) and 6-Speed Allison. It was bought new by the company, and has only used Delo Oil with Lucas Fuel and Oil Additive. I was used as a cargo transport truck and usually had a Gooseneck Flatbed behind it. It generally towed right at its max tow rating and a tad over, 15,000-17,000 lbs, and 23,500 lbs GCWR, and has been way over its max towing a few times at 20,000 lbs. It just hit 905,000 miles before I left the company 7 years ago. I am sure it has over 1 million miles on it now. They still have it and it is still going.
Now, it has never been rebuilt, but has been "Bullet Proofed" to prevent any issues down the road. It has had ARP Studs Throughout (Head and Mains, with Rod Bolts) Alligator Performance "Bulletproof LBZ Package" (Deviant PCV Re-Route Kit, Deviant EGR Blocker Plates, FASS 150 Titanium Lift Pump), Rear Self Adjusting Airbags, E-Rated Tires, and a basic tune for towing. Nothing crazy.
My Father in law swore by lucas oil additive for his 7.3. I've tried it on a couple of my diesel trucks (7.3 powerstroke and the rickety 6.2 detroit) and haven't noticed anything other than a more expensive oil change. From what I've read by oil experts, modern oils have a great additive package already, the trouble comes from not changing it as you should. Those additives break down and no longer do their job. If you stay current on your oil changes (as you should, anyway) you don't need to spend extra.
The only additives I use are for the fuel in the fall, when it's getting cold and some stations haven't switched to winterized diesel yet. A few bucks to prevent gelling is worth avoiding the headache. In my old 6.2, I will add a little bit of 2-stroke oil because it wasn't designed to run on ULSD and the injection pump will wear out faster without a little help.
I run mystic and Lucas my 12 valve has 1 million 300 thousand pulls a 32 foot cow trailer 6 days a week has never had the head off
andrew sanders km or miles? 😶
Kody Nish miles I have a fresh engine ready this one can't last much longer
andrew sanders yeah that's a good idea
andrew sanders go for 2,000,000 miles!
disturbedrocks1996 I am going to run it tell it dies
I have used Lucas products and love them. Currently have a 7.3 with 546k miles on it. Here is the kicker. It gets the waste oil out of my track car which is Amsoil 20/50 zrod. I do run a Frantz toilet paper filter in addition to the stock filters. Bought this used and am the third owner having put almost 275,000 miles on myself.
thats pretty funny, using the used oil out of a track car. i like it, doesnt waste as much.
@@SketchyAtBest The traccck ccar get an oil change every 6 track days so the oil is pretty fresh and at track temps pretty clean.
Nice. I just bought a drum of rotella and a couple gallons of lucas oil and fuel. 8 hours later you reassure me of my purchase. Thanks rich!
You cant go wrong with rotella and lucas, I have always gotten my moneys worth, and then some, with both.
Go look at an oil analysis of the Lucas Oil Stabilizer and see what you get for your money.
Joshua Skinner I have and compared to additives like slick 50 and cheaper than microlon, the 240k miles also speaks for itself, the body of my truck will be long gone before the engine will.
Joshua Skinner ive done wear tests on timken bearings, mixed as directed. Tested 3 brands and liked what i seen. Plus i get the Lucas at $28 a gallon. Compared to $45 at the nearest Crappy tire/parts store
I have used Royal Purple 15w/40 with K&N oil filters since new, no leaks, doesn't use any oil. Change at 8,000. Got 225,000 on her. Love my Cummins!!!!
Bigfoot must drive the 6.4 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
That's odd I have one with 325k miles the only issue is the radiator. It's never had a tune on it.
Great video & basic maintenance goes a very long way my LLY has 390k miles w/Never being in the engine or allison-orignal hg’s injectors etc. I bought the Dmax in late 2004 after selling my 2001 24v that had it’s 3rd injector pump(vp44). I appreciate your videos and I personally can make any Diesel last & last w/standard maintenance intervals and getting the engine to breathe freely in & out. I have fallen in love with my lly but Cummins has always been @ the top of my list as I am an International Trucks Mobile Diesel Mechanic.Thanks again for your videos!!!🤙
Shell Rotella T6 all day! Working on getting my 7.3 to the 1 mil club
260K miles on my 6.0 and still going strong with the factory head bolts and factory head gaskets. It still has the stock EGR and oil coolers. No chips. No tunes. No problems.
Wes Johnson if you don't chip them they're good engines they just can't handle a chip without head studs
I just bought a factory 6.0 replaced oil cooler and egr for good measure and I plan on keeping it tuner free and see how long I can get on factory bolts
the thousands upon thousands of consumer complaints and lawsuits seems to contradict your "good engines" statement.
Wes Johnson. I use to work on them 6.0 engines at the International dealership we never had issues with the following u stated,more so injectors and idm good engines if u keep up on maint.
I had a 04 6.0 with 416k miles leaks oil like a son of a bitch but will still pull hell off its hinges
Amsoil oil filter bypass systems really help the oil life. I’ve always run Mobil 1 in my truck and has done a great job.
Problem is the oil turns acidic and you can’t add base to offset that
I run shell rotella t6 5w-40 on my 2016 F-250 Powerstroke 6.7L. The last year of the steel body super duties! The only oil I've been running on it so far is the rotella t6 which I've heard good things about for diesel engines that take a lot of abuse. I have pulled a lot of heavy loads of logs so far but granted only have 30k on the engine so far so a very small sample size but the engine and transmission has been well taken care of so far! Bought the truck brand new and maintenance it myself. Fuel filter has already been replaced at 20k miles as well as new transmission fluid by accident but was pretty dirty at about 20k miles as well from all the heavy towing. I have not messed with the engine at all with regards to tuning it for power or show and plan on only leaving it stock and using OEM Motorcraft parts on the truck which for the most aren't that expensive and a lot of times cheaper!
I have a 1980s Pettibone with the famous 4 cylinder Cummins 4BT and have had good luck with it so far. Found a good deal and bought the machine off Craigslist. Luckily noticed it was running on low coolant before it was too late and the engine burned up! Also was leaking a lot of oil which apparently Cummins engines are known for but it always starts up and runs well. The hour meter needs to be replaced since it is not working so who knows how many hours it really has! Maybe 6-7k hours total. I have maintained it pretty well so far doing all the basics such as new fuel filter, oil and oil filter. I run Napa fleet 15-40 conventional oil on the Cummins since it's older and I don't use as much as the truck I will just change more frequently. Customer gave me original Carquest Wix made in USA filters for the Pettibone Cummins engine which is neat since they now are bought out by Advanced Auto.
Same here rotella and Lucas are the best have over half million miles on my Cummins with it and my dad's semi has 1.2 million miles on it with rotella and Lucas since new and the motor has never been cracked open. That's pulling lowboy all it's life with oversized loads grossing 100-150k combined weight still runs like new. Thanks for the great content.
I have a 89 F250 7.3 IDI NA, only 61K miles but for the last 2 years I use delo 15W-40 and lucas, So I have a long way to go, I may switch to Shell now though. I regularly change oil, recently did a full fluid change including anticav in coolant after multiple flushes, rear diff and ZF5 ATF, now if I could just stabilize the body rot issues haha
Love Rotella, ran both T5 and T4 and I can't tell the difference even with cold weather starts. Great oil. I run a bypass filter and my oil looks as clean after 10K as it does at 1K.
Ive daily driven a diesel truck for the last 3-4yrs & I can’t tell a difference between synthetic, & conventional. I can tell the Shell is better oil, but as far as synthetic goes it is a waste of money. A Diesel truck or any vehicle cant go more than 5K on a single oil change. I’ve gone to 7 once, but haven’t since then cuz it’s bad for it.
Get a decent conventional oil, & a OEM filter or Mobil 1. NO Fram or wix oil filters. We had a wix filter nearly blow up our van on the road. The fuel filters are ok tho.
@michaelbenoit248 is that because diesels dirty the oil with the recirculation of the exaust and therefore need to change it at 5k? so it doesnt really matter if you use conventional vs synthetic?
@@wezkos2063 I run the bypass filter to keep my oil as clean as possible. It filters down to particles of 2 microns. Conventional filters only remove 35 microns and above so it removes the soot. Synthetic oil is best for cold starts and longevity of the injectors
Rotella 15w40,one of the best oils on the market for heavy duty diesel engine applications.BUT,i believe regular oil changes are key to longevity.ALSO,oil filters are not created equally.FLEETGUARD makes some of the best commercial,industrial filters out there.The difference comes with length of pleating in the filter,and the anti drain construction on the filter for cold engine starts.Have you ever bought an oil filter and noticed its shorter than the OEM filter?Run em' hot,and regular changes,thats the key.
I had a Dodge ram V10 and I changed the oil and filter every 3000 miles and added Lucas oil treatment when I sold it it had over 250000 miles on it. It ran like new and never burned or leaked oil. I know it's not a diesel but I pulled a 26' trailer and it was a real beast. It could pull a house. Great truck's, Dodge Ram is the only truck for me!!!!!
I'm an Amsoil guy myself and love it. But, no matter what, I think the real key is to get the factory fluids out of your vehicle ASAP after buying it and put lubricants in it from a lubricant campany. Auto makers aren't in the lubrcant business. they're in the "money making business".
That's the truth. I'm an Amsoil man myself.
Same, your logic goes for gas or diesel. I’m an amsoil dealer and have seen the difference it makes whether it be better fuel mileage in my Cummins or wife’s subie. I did see a oil pressure rise at cold start from rosella to amsoil. What people don’t understand is you can drive twice the mileage as standard crap oil and get better protection. Old dogs usually stick to old tricks and that is fine, just so as long as it doesn’t bother me with my rig.
The original oils are running in oils, good for purpose.
2007 lariat outlaw 6.0l powerstroke just rolled 270k miles and I replaced oil cooler. That's only work that has been done. Still running original EGR.
A long ways to go before 1 million lol
I run Rotella 15w40 exclusively in all my diesels. and as of a few years ago, every other engine I own.
Never been a believer in additives, may have to give the lucas a shot to see if its any good.
A few stories of my Rotella adventures:
A couple years back I picked up an ex-rental honda jetski.
It's engine is very similar to a cbr1000 engine, had been abused its whole life.
I immediately started running mobil 1 synthetic in it, and it didn't matter how long I ran it the oil always was clean. I randomly did a change and put rotella in.
Within an hour the oil was as black as any diesel oil. I changed it and put more rotella in. after about 5hrs it was jet black again, kept doing changes when it was dirty and using rotella.
Engine runs smoother now, sounds better, and gained 5mph on the top end.
Also bought an abused craftsman riding mower when we first moved here, has a Kohler cv22 I believe. Guy swore it was clapped out, I changed the oil, put in Mobil 1 (which I still think is a great oil, but would be better suited if I bought something brand new rather than other peoples worn out abused engines)
I'd use at least a quart of oil mowing my grass (maybe half an acre). When the smoke stopped rolling out of the exhaust that meant there wasn't any oil left in it. Kept the mosquitoes down pretty good though.
After about 2 years of buying a couple gallons of oil every time I got gas for the mower I put rotella in, and kept topping it up with more rotella as it burned it. mowed a few times, still smoking which was odd because it should have run out before then, changed the oil, looked like road tar coming out of that engine, the mobil 1 came out clean every time, then mowed a few more times and changed it again.
After a few changes the mower stopped smoking. Now very rarely it'll puff a little blue haze when I first fire it up, but doesn't use any noticeable amount of oil, and has outlasted my expectations of its lifespan by about 5 years now.
Now I sit back and wait for someone to tell me how I'm ruining something by using a diesel oil in my gasoline engines, or otherwise try to tell me what I've witnessed firsthand is wrong.
As you know you're better off running the Rotella in older stuff,the damn EPA made them take the zinc and other additives from the gas formulations a few years back.I personally might rethink running it in a new car but only if its a new engine designed to run the new oil that is like piss lol.I actually have changed 6 low hour boat motors do to oil related failures where the guys thought it was fine to run a modern car formula oil in a older push rod v8 with flat tappets ;-)
I run Rotella in everything. Including all of my high-reving Japanese sport bikes. In most cases, switching from the manufacturer's pricey branded oil to Rotella has really smoothed out the shifting. Engine internals look great during valve adjustments, etc. Plus, it's cheap. The best oil is the one you can afford to change often.
Go look at an oil analysis of the Lucas Oil Stabilizer before you buy it. Or have one done.
good or bad?
bumblebeecbr what I saw in those analysis of Lucas was basically the only thing it changes is the viscosity. Which if that's a concern, run 20w50, all my stuff seems happy with 15w40, the Lucas from what reports were on bobistheoilguy doesn't have any additives or much other than its really really thick.
I’ve had fantastic results running Rotella in inboard towboats, and all sorts of air cooled Commercial lawn equipment and agricultural equipment. No problems and great compression with zero leak down.
I run Rotella in all my cars/trucks. Great stuff 👌
I have only 287K miles on my 6.0 ford. Rotella T 15-40 is the only oil this beast has seen. Engine has never been apart or bullet proofed other than in set of injectors and two turbos. I bought it new on 2003
Optilube XL is the fuel additive I use. It increases lubricity the most of any additive. That and Archoil 9100 in the oil (Delo Full synthetic), and I get 24 mpg out of my 7.3 IDI 1990 F250 XLT Lariat 4x4
Holy shit I get like 9mpg out of my idi
@@noahduppler619 this was optimized highway driving, albeit I climbed 7000 feet and back down
Duramax at 800k miles. 2015. Allison transmission. No additives ever in fuel or oil. All services done at dealership, even after warranty over. Only constant problem was crossover pump. And pullies. And one recall repair of what I cant remember.
1 ton still goin strong even after forklift backed into it too.
I had a Tacoma with 780k on it and granted it wasn't hauling heavy loads but it was used for everything including off-road recoveries.
I believe you the Toyota tacoma is all around a great truck
They constantly pop ball joints and blow head gaskets
It's a wonder the frame was still alive considering their rust failure problems 😲😲
I'm running a 1998.5 dodge with a 5.9 24 valve cummins and It has been on the rotella diet for a very long time. It has just under 300,000 miles on it and I had to pull the oil pan to change the oil pan gasket and it looked amazing in the engine. There was great cross hatching in the cylinders and everything else looked great. I was going to change to a full synthetic oil later on but as you said the proof is in the pudding that oil just straight up works and works great.
310 thousand on my 99 3500 ram only run shell rotella conventional oil.runs like new great mileage edge chip in it for top end towing maybe 80 more horsepower and 100 ft pounds torque. 25.5 on hyw at 60 mph cruise. Also its 4x4 dually.
I run mobile1 5W 40 with no oil additives I do use Lucas in my fuel and I’m at 586,000 miles on a fully delete truck not bad for a Duramax
300,000 miles in my 1994 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 360 in it, still runs like a champ
Looks like I have a long way to go, only 188,000K on my 7.3, always run Rotella, but I'll look into the oil treatment. I do run the fuel treatment. Oil still looks mint every time I check it!
BarnStangz that trucks brand new !! Low for an older truck haha
Haha, yeah you're right!
I'll have to check out the Opti Lube thanks!
That still has a lot of life left. Mine just turned over 365K, drive it every day.
She's been a dependable rig for sure! Hope to get many more miles out of it! Sure beats having a payment for these new super expensive trucks! :D
I had 700,000 km on my 1993 Mazda B2300 I bought from my grandpa before I passed her on to another family member who promptly totalled it... only big jobs I had to do were rear suspension bushings and a clutch job. Other then that she was all maintenance.
I now have a visual in my head of Bigfoot driving around in a 6.0...priceless
😂😂😂
Somebody should make a meme vid with Harry from Harry and the Hendersons driving a 6.0...
Think of the noises it would make
We did an in frame on a detroit 60 series with 1.4 million miles that ran rotella synthetic and lucas every service at 20k intervals and the truck still had the cross hatch on the cylinders and almost 0 wear on the the main bearing with all the bearing coating in tact...
460k miles on my 96 7.3 still got a ways to go i run rotella as well
I've got a 95 Nissan pickup with the VG30E. I don't know what the previous owners ran in it for oil, but I use Castrol GTX. Discovered that my year old Castrol went from 4.7Q to less than one quart by the time I changed it. Driven daily at an average of about 10 miles a day, usually 5 miles, but sometimes 80. Guam is a small island, but it's always more than enough to warm the engine up before I'm even a quarter of the way done with my commute. I'm not easy on the throttle either, I regularly get the truck into 5K passing other drivers. Even with that little of oil in the engine, it made no unusual noise and had no unusual wear when I was pulling the engine apart for unrelated work.
I'm not sure if that's a testament to the oil, or the engine design, but it's defiantly something. No additives besides random fuel cleaners, be it Lucas, Berryman's, whatever is available, every month to two months since I've owed the truck as of two years ago.
Got over 500,000 on my 7.3powerstroke running Lubrication Engineers oil 15-40
Hell yeah I own a 97 F250HD 7.3l with 809,000. I run rotella 15w40 and Lucas oil stabilizer. Change it every 4000 miles runs like new
My 6.0 has around 300k but its pulled 28000 plus some everyday for 13 years. It's had some work but never had the head off. It's got a sassy old 5 spd. with a granny low and it's an F550
Drove jockey truck for 5 years, company bought 3 brand new Capacity yard dogs with the 6.7cummins@173 or 183 horse if memory serves. Contracted to USG jockeying flatbeds of drywall. We ran two of the three trucks from Monday 6am to Saturday 11am with the only downtime for routine maintenance, I worked there for 5 years and they ran 3 shifts without problems from our trucks for 3+years. It had an Alison rds3000 limited to 3 speeds, it would do 19mph at 2300rpm all day in 3rd gear with a loaded flatbed. The last time I can remember checking, my favorite truck #605 had 21,000 engine hours and counting. Those trucks and how we had them setup was the most reliable piece of gear I’ve ever operated to date. Ran nonstop from Monday morning Tull Saturday morning, Non-stop for over 3 years.
180 horsepower= 1 million plus miles.. crank it up to 8-900 horsepower= 50,000 miles
it sure would be a fun 50k though lol
I would still think it would last longer if maintained well
Who cases about a million miles if it takes forever to get there! Lol
I have a 700 hp 6.7 has just under 40k and runs amazing so we will see but I dont think a diesel is in trouble at all until 250k I disagree with this guy almost evrey video but whatever
@@becraftcorey that's because hes probably forgotten more than you know about the vehicles and engines hes worked on.
Sold my 98 24v cummins no mods other than a 4 inch exhaust no muffler 390000 miles all work service always shell rotella always only problem had to replace the vp44 bosh covered part of the cost .. no blow by guy I sold it to is pushing 700000 now ... the truck rotted away but he transplanted it into a truck from the south west states truck
I've got a 1996 ford f350 turbo 7.3. When I bought it the owner said it would never run again and it had been sitting for 10 plus years. Well after countless headaches and blood sweat and tears she ran and I'm currently at 900000 plus. I run only shell and Lucas and I'm sure if i didnt...she would be dead. Now with that being said my dad has a 24 valve cummins that he runs only shell and blah blah blah and the spedo stopped like a long time ago and he has a mil plus. So I swear by it. Not saying the trucks run like new but they still run! Lol
Lucas oil additive is bad to run in a 7.3 STOP. We have a much different fuel system, and oil is used to actuate your injector. the lucas causes the oil to FOAM. Google this your self and stop using it. I hope you read this. I think it even says not to use on powerstrokes....
I buy Lucas Fuel Stabilizer by the gallons. Started using the product 5 years ago and never looked back. I've got a gas drinking 2003 Ford Expedition that was getting 16.5 mpg out on the road. After using the fuel stabilizer, mileage went up 18.3 mpg. Now that doesn't sound like much , but with 475,000 miles on the truck, it all adds up. Love Lucas products that work. And the family ( Lucas ) support all kinds of auto racing .
6.6 duramax lbz. Rotella every 5,000 miles with archoil additive In the oil and the fuel. Also fuel filter change every 10,000. That's the key to not blowing it up
Agreed I do this exact setup but use motorkote instead of archoil in my oil to add to the shell rotella t6. And seafoma every time I do fuel filter. I have 415000kms still going strong
My 7.3’s only got 142000 miles and only uses rotella t6 and 1 quart of marvel mystery oil and k&n on all its oil changes for the past 60000 miles or so. She still starts like a champ in -20F weather
It's much easier to notice the difference when you know it's there. Also, the key aspect is consistency. You can't skip oil changes for 200k miles then add some treatment and expect it to help anything. I put Red Line in every engine that I want to last a long time.. is it worth it? Probably not, however, I have noticed more ideal oil pressures at all temperatures, easier startups, and its flow rate at cold temps out of the bottle is unrivaled. Also, when I switched to Red Line in the diesels, I noticed that it didn't turn black instantly like the conventional did. I'm a little more open to the idea of additives for fuel (given your purchase options are much more limited). With oil, it seems that people love the self bargaining, talking about how they've run the cheap stuff for years and never had a problem. There are factors like frequent cold starts, short engine run cycles, how much ZDDP you want in the oil, etc. that they may not consider.
Redline and brad penn are the best out there as far as additive packages. Driven oil is pretty close
365,000 mile 1999 7.3 drive it every day. Always use synthetic Rotella 15w40 every 3-5 thousand miles. Still on stock injectors!
Lucas is good stuff, does what it says.
However oil additive "thickens" the base, which makes it harder to pump, and to those of us paying close attention to fuel mileage, it does add up.
2004 6.0 Powerstroke Lariat with 212,500 miles on it. Tranny is rebuilt from the previous owner and I've changed the trans oil with Red line T6 to replace Mercon SP and exclusively use Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel full Synthetic with no additives. Daily drives and runs like a charm. I have gone through 2 alternators and one AC compressor already since 190,000 miles since I bought it.
""My Lucas Story"". Been a long haul trucker over 30 yrs. ''' My Bro showed up with his 1.6 Honda Civic.''' I asked him what fuel injector cleaner he's been using. as he had 200k on the clock.He replied "0" Never... as he had 3/4 tank of gas I added 6 oz Lucas with few pints of gas "(It's thick so adding gas makes it easier to pour down the funnel") - I told him now go fill-up... let me know in couple days if you notice any results..... This is what he stated.... Before when I pulled up to a Red Light, I'd just leave the tranny shifter in drive take my foot off the gas and it would idle with no forward movement.. after you added the Lucas injector cleaner... when I pulled to Red Light I had to keep my foot on the brake to stop forward movement,... then when the light changed green.. and I hit the gas the tires chirped on take - off... I've been using Lucas for well over a decade... even in Old Carburetor motors ...it definitely makes HUGE Difference.... as I live in an extremely cold climate, I'm careful how much Oil Stabilizer I use in the winter. "If you think it's thick when you pour it...Imagine what it's like at -45... I still add some every oil change, (Rice Rocket 4 banger) but not more than a 1/3 litre, - I use injector cleaner about 6 oz's to a tank, every 4-5 tanks it makes a Gigantic Difference... I average 500 miles on 3/4 tank of gas in a Saturn Ion standard driving the speed limit...Yeah My Lic. is clean...sort of....
Mk
2006 Ram 5.9 CR Cummins 300,000 miles. Bone stock other than CAI and strait 5" exhaust. Never been apart or any parts bought other than maintenance/belt driven accessories. Rotella 15w40 its entire life. Diesel Kleen Power Service in the fuel every other fill up. 7,000 miles on the first replacement 48re trans.
Had a customer with a 900k mile 6.0 LS van engine. Still running when van was scrapped.
The 6.0 is a fantastic Engine
I had a 4.8 had 270k miles but the 4L60 would fall apart easily.
I have a 96 Grand Marquis with 645,000 miles on the original 4.6, only on its second trans. Did valve stem seals, timing chain guides & tensioners at 300k but probably didn’t need to. Still plenty of meat left on the guides at the time. Been the best car I’ve ever owned. Still only uses 1/2 quart or so between oil changes - I change at 4000 miles using valvoline 5w30 conventional.
When the 4L80 was behind it they were awesome.
I have a 2002 Excursion RWD with 7.3. Haven't towed anything as yet but bought it anticipating it will tow a travel trailer. Gets 22 mpg highway and 14 mpg city. I run Royal Purple 15w40 diesel oil with Mobil 1 extended life oil filter. I always suck the old oil from the HPOP reservoir and refill with fresh oil before start up. I run the oil 10,000 miles between oil changes. I change the fuel filter at each oil change along with cleaning and reoiling the K&N air filter. Had oil lab tested at 7,500 miles and results showed lots of miles left on the oil. Test lab said the engine was in great shape with lots of miles still to run. Engine has 282k miles and runs great. Run a good synthetic oil and stay in the 10,000 mile interval and you'll have a long lasting engine. Rather than argue my approach, get your own oil tested regularly and you will get the true picture of how your engine is doing. Well worth a few buck to test the oil.
In Australia the Ford 4.0L inline six (known in its later forms as a Barra) was used in countless taxis, set up to run on LPG/Propane. Many of these cabs would hit the 1M kilometre mark, and theres plenty of rumors that at least one or two in Melbourne made it to the 1.6m km (near as well be 1M Mile).
If you are interested a good friend has on 02' DuraMax with over 800.000 miles, tows with it most of the time, Changes oil often and has never had the valve covers off the engine. The trans and 'T' case have been changed, brake lines replaced, the flat bed installed when new is abut dissolved, but the truck runs great and is still in daily use. I can send pictures if you like.
I really enjoy your channels and look forward to the next video.
I always ran rotella in my 12v and in my Kawasaki v-twins. I talked to Mickey Dunlap about oils and he recommends Brad Penn, which is what we use in all our equipment in the gas patch. Would be interesting to test the two.
97 4.6l ford gasser. 480,000 miles currently sittin with a bad clutch slave. All original engine miles, no smoke, still gets good mileage, its been overheated by me 2x in last four years to the point itnwas pinging and stalled. No oil leaks, i use cheapest oil oreillys has when im doing an annual change. Truck gets 35k a year on the log book pulling trailers last 4 years ive owned it. I use the truck to pull single axle lawn service trailer usually loaded around 3.5k. City and highway miles. Did the 5 speed manual at home when i bought the truck 280,000 miles ago. True story.
I have a 2000 Audi S4 that most people think is the most unreliable car ever and I run Rotella T6 in it and have almost 300,000 miles. I know compared to a diesel that's not a lot but for these cars that's crazy. I even have the full stage 3 build on the car so it's making almost 500 horsepower and it's still holding together.
I have a 01 A4 with a built 1.8t in it that has 240k on the stock pistons,crank etc.Pretty much just did rods,cams,bearings and rings when I put the 35R on it.I ran M1 Diesel oil till about 100k and switched over to Rotella T6 and havent looked back since.It's insane how reliable the car is and it too is capable of 500+whp although I run it daily around 430 on pump.In full street trim it's gone a best of 10.52 @ 123mph.It's really hurt some feelings of guys with a lot more power and other than tearing up a compressor wheel that was my fault its been as reliable if not more than stock.
SouthJerseySound that's awesome. I really like the b5 platform. The last of the lightweight Audis before they started being super heavy
Same here,I just cant bring myself get rid of it and I've tried.I did the build years ago and have yet to find another car to replace it.I forget how long its been,but I was only the second or 3rd in the States to use the Eurodyne Maestro.Between Chris Tapp and Pag Parts Turbo near me I got really lucky,the thing is as good or better than stock reliability and it rips.I did leave some power on the table so to speak but the reliability gained using the PPT V band stuff and a old school Garret was worth it to me.One thing I have to say is if you havent done a rear LSD and the torsen shims to give it some more rear bias then do it.It truly made it a whole new car.You really cant put it into words but being able to AWD power slides is a guaranteed smile ;-) and I've yet to find anything close.
SouthJerseySound nice! I'll definitely look into that
I think it is Stasis that makes the shim kit but we machined our own.The dimensions used to be on the forums and it is stupid easy once you figure it out.I gave my local machine shop the dimensions and he made them in about 10 min for $40 ;-)
I drive a 95 cummins 12 valve. It has 321000 miles on it. My uncle bought it with 20,000 miles and put an Amsoil bypass filter system on it. He would change the oil filter ever 25k and the bypass every 50k. It has no blowby and runs great, everything on the motor is original besides the fuel plate.
I bought my 98 Ford F-150 lariat brand new off the lot has the 4.6 in it and just rolled over 500,000 miles. Anything is possible lol.
interesting. I cant find a F-150 diesel. never heard of it. you must have an F-250?!?!?!?
Yep, my 96 grand marquis with the 4.6 has over 600,000 miles. Good engines.
@@constructioninc 4.6 is a Gasser Twin Cam !!
My dad's 03 cummins was still going strong at 330k miles, but he was getting tired of hunting down the various fluid leaks and was looking at rebuilding the diffs and transfer case because of driveline slop. 7500 mile oil changes with Rotella T6 or Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme. No oil additives, but he would religiously use Power Service in the fuel tank. He had the manual transmission and either had the factory clutch or changed it once in the time he owned it. Almost as soon as we walked into the dealership they had people crawling all over checking it out. About a week after trading in the truck before that, a '98, he got a call from the salesman at the dealership. The service manager claimed it as his vehicle for parts runs and wouldn't let the dealer sell it. You take care of a cummins and it'll sure as hell take care of you.
The big problem is they changed shell rotella T oil blend and additive package when they went to the new CK4 standard testing and removed specific testing that used to be in the CJ4 testing this opened up a issue that ford themselfs found that was killing the 6.7L engines killing theyre cam and upper end Delo 400 on otherhand has been found to offer same protections that rotella T CJ4 blend offered so in short new rotella T oil isn't as good also has a major issue with evaporation and killing EGR and turbo's coking / sooting while delo 400 doesn't.
I have a 7.3 idi NA that is at 1,280,000 miles and is just now going down hill with original headgaskets and all it still has okay compression but is starting to have the dreaded blowby and oil smoke on decel and also getting the chuffing out the exhaust telling me valves are about toast so I am about to tear it down and rebuild it. I am going to do some upgrades while is apart going with modified power stroke rods and powerstroke rod / main bearings and 10 thousands shaved off top of pistons also going to use MLS turbo version head gaskets along with ARP studs. I also am going to use the R&D idi cam and as for rings going with factory rings and use a set of 390 60 thousands overbore 2nd compression cast iron rings to tighten the 2nd ring gap issues these motors have like 60 thousands ring gap on 2nd ring oem and first ring is 24 thousands or so ring gap this will almost eliminate the factory blowby issue these motors are prone to.
I've used Delo for 50 years. Pour a gallon of Rotella T out and look in the bottom for the trash left.
I changed from Delo to Amsoil synthetic. Nothing but pluses with Amsoil.
I know a Danielle W Sixtoe... approximately 6'11" tall and his wife shaves his back and front....who drives a 6.4 with a mil+ .....if that counts. (laughing hard here). God Bless ya my friend. You have the most informative "understandable" diesel info out there. Totally enjoy your quick edited jobs you do. In maybe 1 year or less expect to have the money,in full (cash) and would seriously be into a silverado/diesel conversion. I work for a livin' like you,construction. Loved that conversion. Will keep watchin'. And will be in touch my friend. I see your work...and respect it. Future business/friends too...laughing, I hope... : )
98-12v 760k miles, valvoline and Lucas additive
Much respect!! I have a 2001 cummins 2500 with 200,000 miles on it use Lucas Fuel stuff all the time and I'm using lubeguard oil additive and have the oil changed at the dealer every five to seven thousand miles. And thank you and for people like you that share your information
brad olympia , the old truck is currently at 774k miles
I been telling people this for years. I actually have saved a bunch of injectors by throwing a whole gallon of lucus fuel stabilizer and a few quarts of transmission fluid in the tank can think of 4 different trucks off hand. I know a guy that wouldn't listen to me and was running amzoil on his 2012 Dodge blew the motor at 20k miles. I never seen and motor so bad off the whole valve cover was full of black sludge. Was a combination of Amzoil and not deleting his EGR and Converters. thanks
I read this in an italian mobster voice.
Great info. Diesels need to work and pull, not drive around town rolling coal....
225K miles on my 03 Dodge, running Schaeffers in both the engine and trans and never opened either up........yet!