How did I miss this I bought my deuce off Keith! Awesome guy. If he's selling some brackets I'm buying 'em. That's wild, small world. Wonder if he still has the for sale video for my truck on the channel xD
Ill have to go check his channel out maybe I'll find my answer there but I'm curious on what the pedal will feel like with disc in the rear and what the operating pressure difference is between the drums and the disc I'd assume the stock deuce drums are self energising if and when they are actually working properly
You are the Man Garrett! I saw it asked below, is there a recommendation for a front disc conversion? Or does Keith at 16RoadOutdoors have a plan for a bracket for the front?
I've seen that question hundreds of times. They work fine off road, but on road they overheat too quickly, burn through pads fast, etc. Remember the pinion is spinning 6.72 times for every one rotation at the wheel, so having only one rotor and set of pads on each axle spinning almost 7× faster than an equivalent pair of them at the wheels is far less effective. Basically having the brake upstream from the differential gears means the reduction gears are working against that brake. You really want your brakes downstream of the gears.
Another reason why the pinion brake is usually not a good setup for the street, is the simple fact that it’s on the input side of the differential. Not only is the gearing going to highly affect it as stated before, it also means that it’s only going to add braking effect to whichever tire has the least traction. Most street trucks have open differentials, so when you apply the brakes on a pinion brake, it’s only going to add brake affect to whichever tire is easiest to stop turning. So if you hit a wet spot in the road, ice, or anything like that that’s low in traction, it’s going to lock up that tire while letting the other one continue rolling. Pinion brakes technically only work on both tires/sides when the differential is locked. Driving a truck on the street with a front differential locked in order to use the pinion brake set up to stop both tires/sides, would be a nightmare.
Garrett, i am seriously considering doing this upgrade. As you recall, my truck has 395 singles on it. My question is how does the wheel spacing work? Hubs flipped etc.
Should work fine. Rotor bolts to the drive flange surface on the hub, not the wheel bolt flange. Rotor will be in the same place regardless of hub orientation.
@@tacticalrepair Garrett, I guess that I don't fully understand. As I understand it, the new caliper bolts to the new bracket on the axle flange after some modifications(removing the existing backing plate and cutting away some of the flange). I am thinking that the new rotor slips over the axle as it is inserted into the axle housing and the axle is bolted to the rotor. I suspect that lug nut/bolts are pressed into the rotor from the rear. I guess where I'm really confused is, how does the current "spindle" (which is bolted and safety wired to the old drum) attach?
@@ModiconBob the wheel bolt flange on the Ford rotors is the same size and bolt pattern as the axle shaft bolt flange on the deuce hubs. Deuce hubs have the same bolt circle on both sides of the hub so you can run them standard or flipped, but that surface stays the same distance from the brake backing plate flange on the housing no matter how you run the hub. The rotor bolts onto that surface flush on the back side of the hub regardless of which configuration you're using.
How did I miss this I bought my deuce off Keith! Awesome guy. If he's selling some brackets I'm buying 'em. That's wild, small world. Wonder if he still has the for sale video for my truck on the channel xD
Sounds like a plan! Thanks for sharing this information!
Wonderful, you just spend 800 for me.. Thanks for great info AGAIN !
Ill have to go check his channel out maybe I'll find my answer there but I'm curious on what the pedal will feel like with disc in the rear and what the operating pressure difference is between the drums and the disc I'd assume the stock deuce drums are self energising if and when they are actually working properly
just ordered mine, and alerted another deuce owner
Thanks Garrett awesome info!
Great info! Thanks for the video!
Do you have a link to his product?
Keith Waligura on Facebook, orgo to his RUclips channel "16 Road Outdoors"
Hell Im on this !!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks
Where can I get this kit? Thanks
Do they still utilize the existing (stock) master cylinder and air pack?
Yes. It's just a bolt on upgrade to the wheel end braking components.
@@tacticalrepair Thanks!
Thanks Garrett. I've tried to post and for some reason it wouldn't let me respond to your video. We'll see if this works.
Looks like it's working for you now.
going to do an install video?
Someday when I do mine.
You are the Man Garrett! I saw it asked below, is there a recommendation for a front disc conversion? Or does Keith at 16RoadOutdoors have a plan for a bracket for the front?
I'm not sure right now.
I'm not sure right now.
I'm not sure right now.
When is the install video
When I get back to America and buy a house with a shop.😅
Why couldnt you do a big pinion break set up like the mudd truck guys do?
I've seen that question hundreds of times. They work fine off road, but on road they overheat too quickly, burn through pads fast, etc. Remember the pinion is spinning 6.72 times for every one rotation at the wheel, so having only one rotor and set of pads on each axle spinning almost 7× faster than an equivalent pair of them at the wheels is far less effective. Basically having the brake upstream from the differential gears means the reduction gears are working against that brake. You really want your brakes downstream of the gears.
@@tacticalrepair thank you! Ive really been thinking about doing it. But glad you summed it up before i wasted money on trial and error
Another reason why the pinion brake is usually not a good setup for the street, is the simple fact that it’s on the input side of the differential. Not only is the gearing going to highly affect it as stated before, it also means that it’s only going to add braking effect to whichever tire has the least traction. Most street trucks have open differentials, so when you apply the brakes on a pinion brake, it’s only going to add brake affect to whichever tire is easiest to stop turning. So if you hit a wet spot in the road, ice, or anything like that that’s low in traction, it’s going to lock up that tire while letting the other one continue rolling. Pinion brakes technically only work on both tires/sides when the differential is locked. Driving a truck on the street with a front differential locked in order to use the pinion brake set up to stop both tires/sides, would be a nightmare.
Garrett, i am seriously considering doing this upgrade. As you recall, my truck has 395 singles on it. My question is how does the wheel spacing work? Hubs flipped etc.
Should work fine. Rotor bolts to the drive flange surface on the hub, not the wheel bolt flange. Rotor will be in the same place regardless of hub orientation.
@@tacticalrepair Garrett, I guess that I don't fully understand. As I understand it, the new caliper bolts to the new bracket on the axle flange after some modifications(removing the existing backing plate and cutting away some of the flange). I am thinking that the new rotor slips over the axle as it is inserted into the axle housing and the axle is bolted to the rotor. I suspect that lug nut/bolts are pressed into the rotor from the rear. I guess where I'm really confused is, how does the current "spindle" (which is bolted and safety wired to the old drum) attach?
@@ModiconBob the wheel bolt flange on the Ford rotors is the same size and bolt pattern as the axle shaft bolt flange on the deuce hubs. Deuce hubs have the same bolt circle on both sides of the hub so you can run them standard or flipped, but that surface stays the same distance from the brake backing plate flange on the housing no matter how you run the hub. The rotor bolts onto that surface flush on the back side of the hub regardless of which configuration you're using.
What year and drive specific of ford truck for brakes?
Awesome. Just wondering if the DOT 5 fluid is compatible with the F350 calipers and continental hoses?
I'm sure it is. Pure silicone fluid is less volatile.
typically the only thing dot5 is not compatible with is anti lock braking systems, which in this case is not a problem
Would that kit work on a 5 ton?
Only the 2.5 ton Rockwell I do believe.
No. The 5 ton parts are way bigger.
@@tacticalrepair damn it
Will they work on the front brakes?
No, the rotors won't clear the steering knuckles.
Best options for disc on front axles?
Steve Gerstner @ Differential Engineering
@@tacticalrepair Thanks
In Florida?
@@X-Appeal yup
I need 2 sets, please PM the contact information.
Keith Waligura on Facebook, or go to his channel " 16 Road outdoors"
@Tactical Repair thank you Sir, now I just need disc brakes for the front axle, any sources for that?
Disregard my last, your earlier reply to someone else finally loaded. STEVE K believe was his name.