OMG. This is probably the best explained tutorial of... well anything! 1. Great lighting and camera angles to see exactly what you're doing. 2. Explanations of every step instead of "do this just because". 3. No BS and longwinded talking about things not relevant to the video. Loved it!
As a member of the OLD xbox-scene which well now i gotta relearn some new tricks thanks to Cerbios.. Wanted to thank you for making a really killer video on this. Incredibly well done video and teaching an old dog some new tricks with specifics to xbmc4gamers.
Gotta agree with all comments here. This is short, sweet and to the point. Perfect vid for someone like myself who's trying to mod an Xbox years after my last mod. Learnt all I had to in 20 mins of video. Thanks!
The exact steps I was missing. Putting things on the C drive. I already soldered in my openxenium and flashed it but, was getting nowhere with the rest. Thank you so much for this video!
Thanks for such detailed tutorial! I could revive my dead OG Xbox. Unfortunately it got a DVD Drive failure, so the only way to do something was to buying and soldering a modchip, buying a universal programmer and flashing a Cerbios with DVD mode disabled (2- Modern). That way finally I got it working like a charm.
Hell yeah brotha great vid! Cerbios is where it's at. They just added 1.6 support as well, been helping test with a 128mb upgraded 1.6 that I put together the other day. Cerbios is king! 👍 I did a vid on upgrading those shitty non flashable aladdins to Xblast Os aladdins with a 512kb and a 256kb bank, it's the same process but you also need to flash the cpld. I'd highly recommend it as it makes flashing a new bios way easier down the line. Cerbios is updating constantly so having to pull it the flash memory every couple of months. it's slightly more work and an extra buck or two for the 1mb flash memory but I think it's worth it.
OMW! I'm so glad I found your channel. I'm more a retro gamer... Like you and viewing your uploads I'm glad to see there's another brilliant like mind out there. 🧠 Owning a electronics repair shop I have a bunch of OG Xboxes laying around so I'll use your Amazon link to order my Aladdin chips please just keep this awesome content coming. Know it's much appreciated! 😇
I bridge my TSOP points on the 1.0 - 1.4 motherboards, install pin headers, temporarily install an Aladdin modchip, flash the BIOS through the modchip with a TSOP BIOS, then pull the modchip. I find it faster than softmodding the XBOX first.
80 wire IDE cable and SSD do not increase speed in a soft modded Xbox with a hard drive formatted to FAT32. Which has about 15mbps read speed on average. You need a drive formatted to nxFAT or NTFS to achive max drive speeds. People use to upgrade the Xbox original hard drive with a faster one and 80 wire IDE, but they had the original Xbox formatted drives, and not a modded drive.
A SSD formatted to fat32 is about 1 second faster. Not worth the money, it is faster but if you blink your eyes you won't notice. The 40 wire IDE cable supports 66Mbps. The 80 wire IDE is to connect to the SATA adapter on the hard drive and nothing more. Still not getting max speed with a SSD hooked to a 80 wire IDE cable. SSD needs a SATA cable for max speeds. Best to get a 4tb, 8tb, or 16tb HDD to benefit from Cerbios. XBMC4Gamers supports only 2 TB and can run with a softmod. Cerbios requires a modchip. So if I spend the money on a EEPROM programmer, and mod chip then I want something bigger than a 2Tb SSD. Not enough save space on a 2Tb drive with all Xbox games, NES, SNES, Mame, coin-ops. I might put a 4Tb HDD in one. Also a hard drive with 90% free space runs faster than one with 10% free space. So a 16tb 60Mbps drive formatted to fat32 with 90% free space is going to be faster than a 2Tb SSD with 1% free space also formatted to fat32. And this Xbox original hard drive was formatted to exFAT or NTFS by Microsoft, so this is why it will run faster with the original hard drive format, but when you mod the drives you reformat them to fat32 which is so slow it really don't benefit from the 80 wire IDE ribbon or SSD like the original Microsoft hard drive format would.
@@sleepwalker29you're so confidently wrong. Cerbios runs at ATA-7 now, (Udma 6). The difference between a stock UDMA 2 and a UDMA 6 with SSD is phenomenally quicker. Stop being so naive.
@@TroJanVirusMusic No, he was definitely correct and you are wrong here. The original xbox was built to handle IDE BUS drivers. UDMA6+ is available for those running larger SATA drives which take advantage of the SATA to IDE adapter speeds such as a Startech. This allows them to run at higher rates, but still does not magically add a new BUS for SSD to run faster. It's just the basics of the Xbox in a nutshell. Waste your money for that milisecond speed gain if you choose. It's just not logical to spend that much and recommend others to do the same for virtually no gain of function.
What nonsense is that? The XBOX uses FATX, not FAT32, ExFAT, NTFS or anything else. And the IDE bus on it supports UDMA-6. It is just disabled by default due to BIOS lock, and using a 40-wire cable. Hence the UDMA-2. Of course a SATA SSD will work faster on SATA, but it will be noticeably faster than a mechanical HDD when the bus speed is 133MB/s. Just make sure to use an 80-wire IDE cable. Don't skip that. One more thing, no spin-up time, and no seek times. This is already a big gain.
Why do people remove the rubber feet from under the xbox? I'm curious cause I've always just peeled them back just to get the screw out and placed them back over the screw hole. I'm assuming because it's not always a clean peel. But I like to keep those rubber feet hahaha!
Had some problems with the mod ... turned out I was using and old EvoX bios, the old ide cable with a 2tb sata drive ... finally fixed it tho. now trying my second mod, but have some different issues. The chip installed just fine, the Evox logo shows up on startup ... but does not work with any other hdd other than the stock one. Also only still reads original discs, not burned discs ... it just shows up as Unknown in Unleash X (original hdd has softmod).
Awesome video!!! Can I use the XGecu T48 [TL866-3G] Programmer TL866CS TL866II Replacement Support 31000+ ICS for EPROM/MCU/SPI/Nor/NAND Flash/EMMC instead of the 34000+ you suggest? Thanks!
On my Xbox all holes on the debug port are open, can I leave all the pins on the pin header then or should I however remove the one you have shown in your video? Thank you for the great video.
Great video. I purchased everything and tried as you stated but all I got was a green and red flashing light. Is there a setup in the program other than changing the chip model number?
This error is usually called FRAG. (Flashing red and green). It means the Xbox has failed to load the bios due to a hardware error. The most common cause of FRAG after installing a modchip is a bad solder connection at the LPC port. Those pads are very small so it is very easy to have a weak solder joint. There are some other things you could check too. When you programmed the new BIOS chip did you get a "programming successful" message? If so, your bios flash is good but you could always read the chip back in the programming software to verify. When you power the Xbox on does the modchip light up? If the light is off or dim you should check your pin header and D0 connection again. This error is extremely common so don't get discouraged. I'm sure you can get it working.
@@MadModLabs I received a pre hard modded xbox and it also has Frag, it doesn't use a pin header and instead has individual wires connecting to the LPC port, what would be an easy fix for this?
@@majestic2876 definitely check the solder connections on those wires. Using individual wires serves the same purpose as a pin header, but it is easy to accidentally short 2 wires together on the modchip's quick solder pads.
I got this weird issue with Artwork installer ... for some reason the Download button stays green and I can keep installing it over and over. When it's done instaling, it doesn't seem to do anything and no artwork is loaded ... when I restart my Xbox, Artwork installer seemingly seems to be not even installed yet, anyone know what's going on? I believe my mod chip is a bit of an older one tho ... perhaps that is the problem? But then, I had no problem running Hexen disc and installing xbmc4gamers.
The games are composed of several files in their own folders. It is basically the files you would get if they were each copied from the original disks. If you have ISO files you can extract them with a program called XDVDMulleter: archive.org/details/xdvdmulleterv10.2beta
Followed every step; red and green flashing power led. Any ideas? Genuinely can't figure out what went wrong, though the internet insists it's an issue with the HDD?
@Appl3sandgrapes This error is usually called FRAG. (Flashing red and green). It means the Xbox has failed to load the bios due to a hardware error. The most common cause of FRAG after installing a modchip is a bad solder connection at the LPC port. Those pads are very small so it is very easy to have a weak solder joint. Double check the solder points and make sure D0 is correct. There are some other things you could check too. When you programmed the new BIOS chip did you get a "programming successful" message? If so, your bios flash is good but you could always read the chip back in the programming software to verify. When you power the Xbox on does the modchip light up? If the light is off or dim you should check your pin header and D0 connection again. This error is extremely common so don't get discouraged. I'm sure you can get it working.
@@MadModLabsthanks for getting back to me! I've played around with it a bit more, here's where I'm at now: System boots now after reflowing everything, however it goes to error code 05; which console mods wiki indicates is either an issue with the tsop flash or the HDD not being locked/readable; I'm using an 80 pin high speed IDE so I don't think that's the issue at least, and if it was a bad cable I think it would go to error code 07 due to being unable to read the disc drive as well if I'm not mistaken. Oh, and for confirmations sake, the power led on the modchip is working and bright I've double checked the chip on my reader and verified it against the cerbios.bin, which comes back as correct according to the software. The HDD, I've reformatted a few times thinking maybe it's not set up correctly or something to that effect, but everything seems to match the video, so I'm probably not looking at/for the right thing. Any ideas?
@@Appl3sandgrapes I wonder if it could be a problem with the SATA adapter. It sounds like the system may not be able to see the hard drive. Are you using the Startech SATA to IDE adapter or is it a different one?
@@MadModLabsI am using a stretch SATA adapter yeah; I thought the same thing and bought a second one just in case but unfortunately I had the same results with both of them. And fatxplorer reads the HDD just fine and has no issue formatting/reformatting for what that's worth
There are a few extra steps to install this modchip in a 1.6 Xbox. The LPC port in the 1.6 is different and requires rewiring. Also, Cerbios is not supported on the 1.6 revision. You can still install hard drives up to 16TB in a 1.6 Xbox using the ExoX bios patched with Titan patch. Other than the LPC rebuild and BIOS incompatibility, the rest of this process is pretty much the same.
You can normally flash the bios from a bootable disk like Hexen. I have recently seen 2 of these Aladdin chips that can not be flashed this way. I think it is because they are clones. If you have an old Aladdin XT2 with the original chip you are probably good. If you are ordering a new chip from Aliexpress or Amazon, it would be a good idea to have a rom programmer handy.
I purchased an Alladin xt2 from ebay seller and they confirmed CAN BE FLASHED WITH NEW CERBIOS (256K) Release V2.03 Hybrid (Xbox V1.0 - 1.5) Only on auction details stating BIOS (EVO X) already installed and can be reflashed. ?
Great tutorial, straightforward and detailed! Question: what if I only install the modchip without upgrading my hdd? I leave the original hdd as is. What advantages or any extra features will I get?
Yes. The adapter is a PLCC32 to DIP32. It just makes the pins of the SST chip accessible to the mini pro's socket. Here is one like I used: amzn.to/3K5mXxW
@@MadModLabs thank you for the reply. I actually had GQ4X4 that I used to try and flash the SST, with the same adapter on Amazon. But.. it didn’t work. I did some investigating and found out that the GQ4X4 requires an adapter to make the SST chips work! They want another $15 for the adapter. I may have fried my SST chip since Vcc is around 5V. I wish they were more transparent.
@@MadModLabs I took your advice and went over all the connection/soldered points and decided to put the D0 point on top like on your video. It works now.. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
If you’re using a solderless adapter that has ground d0, would that pass through the header on the Aladdin or would I need to connect directly to the chip?
Hi! The files that you need to download for your X-Box like the artwork, can you just download those and install it offline instead of re-downloading these things every time you need to reformat your console?
Just finished installed the aladdin. So with the new hard drive it only flashes green and red with the new hdd. Boots fine with stock xbox hdd woth the exception that it skips the Xbox boot animation. I flashed using a programmer. Could it be a bad chip or flash?
The board is not toast yet. Pulling off pads is very easy to do. Fortunately, there are other D0 points. You can try repairing the damaged trace with a very fine piece of wire or try connecting one of the alternate D0 locations to a grounding point. Here is a Reddit post about it: www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/comments/w5kt0u/rookie_mistake_ripped_the_d0_pad_right_off_trying/&ved=2ahUKEwjZufmA5Zf-AhVUFFkFHUpNCvAQFnoECBMQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3Oz3YPdheUbC4oiFhPVwkh
The GPU adhesive will soften up with a hairdryer just enough. And WD40 is the best way to get rid of that glue thingy. ;) Also, which is the best bios to use for a bigger, at least 3TB hdd with? This, or evoX, in your newer video?
just have a couple things i want to comment on. if you like me like replaceing the clock capacitor tge original clock capacitor is a Super Capacitor. Idk how exactly it differs internally from a normal electrolitic capacitor but i don't think it's the same thing. the oem super caps Microsoft used are 2.5V not 2.7 but 2.7 is far easier to find these days and they work fine as a replacement for 2.5V. 1Farad is the oem capacitance but you can increase the Capacitance in theory keeping the time after unplugged longer than the original 1F in fact I fit 15F super capacitors in giving it in theory 15 times longer before the xbox can't keep its time after unplugged. Secondly their is or has been a lot of debate if the og xbox should be replace the thermal compound or not, in my opinion i don't think they need it, it's just nice if you can BUT, if you attempt to replace the compound you need to have caution because if you apply to much force the CPU and especially GPU can detach from the board and i hear it's near imposable to lign up the CPU or GPU and reflow the solder correctly. So basically if you pull to hard the board is bricked and practically unfixable. In regards to the thermal paste from personal experience and conversations with someone with much more experience than I have. The Thermal Compound Microsoft used isn't thermal paste and maybe not even a pad, whatever they used is soft enough to have spread when the heatsink was put on the FIRST time but is and probably never was a paste. The thermal compound does appear to be different for Version 1.0-1.1 so that may not aply but as you can see in this video the Thermal compound judging from it's near perfect square shape and how it covers far more area than the actual component it is not a Paste but a Thermal Pad or something like it. What they used performs optimally ,at least enough to keep the CPU and GPU from getting to hot, to this day. So if you don't feel comfortable taking off the Heatsinks I personally feel you then shouldn't try replacing the original thermal compound. If you ,like myself, do repasted your OG Xboxes be aware that the thermal paste YOU use will most likely have a expect performance lifespan of 5 or so years so i advise you change the New thermal past in 4 years or less. Unless you have a reliable way to compare how the paste performs in 4 years and it performs almost as well as the day it was applied. BTW you should not use a Thermal Pad because to my knowledge they don't thin down much so it would probably perform worse than the original Thermal compound does. Generaly speaking the thicker the layer of Thermal compound after applied and pressed the worse it performs at keeping the CPU/GPU cool. None of this is ment to come across as an attack to Mad Mod Labs, I think this is a great channel i simply am responding to some bits of the information in this Video. And Thank you to the Mad Mod Labs for the video it's been entertaining to watch and has useful information to use. Sorry for any typos or Grammar isues i have probably made.
Curious what happens if I don't replace with thermal paste. Will they eventually overheat and damage the board? Or is it a simple replace whenever they finally break
@@readysetrekt3414 I don't have enough experimented evidence to know for %100 sure but from the information i know of, If the heatsinks aren't removed and thus the thermal compound isn't changed it will not overheat so long as the system isn't excessively dusty. With that said on the chance i'm wrong and the system overheats it may cause permanent damage and the common overheating symptom of turning itself off mid game(because consoles usualy are set to turn off at a set high temperature set from the factory). So far I have not heard of a instance a original Xbox turns itself off conclusively from overheating directly because the the thermal compound wasn't performing optimally enough, so as i mentioned earlier if someone isn't comfortable removing the heatsinks not messing with it is a safe option.
An xbox will turn itself off if you don't have any functional fans. It monitors chip temps and will save itself if a heatsink is at least installed. If the chip is bare, yeah it'll probably heat up quickly enough to kill itself. As for removing the heatsinks without much force, just warm them up with some hot air and the paste loosens. They come off super easy when warm. To remove the paste more cleanly than shown in this video, use electrical contact cleaner that contains hexanes, like Puretronics 3600. Isopropyl alcohol does basically nothing. Acetone may also work but I haven't tested yet and if you drop any on the plastics it will damage them.
@@CasualGamerCC I just cleaned up mine and I used %100 acetone and a thin pillow sheet. It worked much better than alcohol. 10/10, got it off in 30 seconds. Crusty paste is a little harder to get off though but not by much.
From what I see going on with the Aladdin mod chip, I would advise everyone to stay away from those chips. Not everyone has a programmer. But you do you.
Do you have to do all that reflashing business? Looks like lots of reviewers on Aliexpress had their consoles boot straight away after installing the chip.
At the time that I purchased my chip, The chips were shipping with an older version of the software. I flashed my chip this way because I knew with 100% certainty that it would work and I could use Cerbios, which was still very new at the time.
"Careful not to lift up this trace" Sounds like someone's had past experiences or knows someone who has. I did that, with my first ever mod, used far to thin a wire just cos it was all I had, & it worked just fine for about 6 months before the wire snapped, & then the resolder, well that didn't go so well, pad came away, the trace is ever so slightly lifted, & I just stopped there before it got entirely destroyed. Christ, that was almost 2 years ago now.
That's not thermal paste, it hasn't "hardened", and it does not need to be replaced. It is a PCM (phase change material) which is dry when cool and soft when warm. It can last for many decades because it's not thermal paste and has completely different properties. Also, Arctic Silver 5 is an ancient formula at this point and far from the best.
Thanks for watching and Subscribing!
is there a way to use keyboard and mouse on xbmc4gamers and manually search games? i feel this would be faster than scrolling alphabetically
OMG. This is probably the best explained tutorial of... well anything!
1. Great lighting and camera angles to see exactly what you're doing.
2. Explanations of every step instead of "do this just because".
3. No BS and longwinded talking about things not relevant to the video.
Loved it!
Thanks for watching!
This is the most comprehensive tutorial on this subject, that I have found. Thanks for your in depth explanation of the process.
As a member of the OLD xbox-scene which well now i gotta relearn some new tricks thanks to Cerbios.. Wanted to thank you for making a really killer video on this. Incredibly well done video and teaching an old dog some new tricks with specifics to xbmc4gamers.
I'm flashed this modchip in XBlast OS using HDD flash and ignoring information "unknown chip". Flashed and working perfect.
Gotta agree with all comments here. This is short, sweet and to the point. Perfect vid for someone like myself who's trying to mod an Xbox years after my last mod. Learnt all I had to in 20 mins of video. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this awesome tutorial! My xbox is now modchipped thanks to you :D
The exact steps I was missing. Putting things on the C drive. I already soldered in my openxenium and flashed it but, was getting nowhere with the rest.
Thank you so much for this video!
Thanks for watching!
This is great I am currently looking on marketplace to see if I can pick me up a cheap OG Xbox to mod…such a great console!
I just watched it because it was so well done! Thanks for sharing.
everything work just as you explained it, I followed ur instructions to a T and it turned out great thanks brother!!!!
I'm glad to hear you got it up and running! Have fun!
this is the best tutorial hands down
Thanks for such detailed tutorial! I could revive my dead OG Xbox. Unfortunately it got a DVD Drive failure, so the only way to do something was to buying and soldering a modchip, buying a universal programmer and flashing a Cerbios with DVD mode disabled (2- Modern). That way finally I got it working like a charm.
Hell yeah brotha great vid! Cerbios is where it's at. They just added 1.6 support as well, been helping test with a 128mb upgraded 1.6 that I put together the other day.
Cerbios is king! 👍
I did a vid on upgrading those shitty non flashable aladdins to Xblast Os aladdins with a 512kb and a 256kb bank, it's the same process but you also need to flash the cpld. I'd highly recommend it as it makes flashing a new bios way easier down the line. Cerbios is updating constantly so having to pull it the flash memory every couple of months.
it's slightly more work and an extra buck or two for the 1mb flash memory but I think it's worth it.
Thanks! I Agree. I actually ordered one of the 512kb chips from your shop a while back.
Your videos are awesome modzville!
I had an og xbox modded with a 500gb hdd! I should of never sold it! These definitely make killer entertainment systems!
If we only had an Xbox!😂 Great video and tutorial! 10/10 👌
OMW! I'm so glad I found your channel. I'm more a retro gamer... Like you and viewing your uploads I'm glad to see there's another brilliant like mind out there. 🧠
Owning a electronics repair shop I have a bunch of OG Xboxes laying around so I'll use your Amazon link to order my Aladdin chips please just keep this awesome content coming. Know it's much appreciated! 😇
Thanks for watching! I am glad to have you as a subscriber.
@@MadModLabs 🙌 Trust I know how much it means to garner subs here on RUclips...as I flex my like 10 subs haha but cherish every single one. 😇
I bridge my TSOP points on the 1.0 - 1.4 motherboards, install pin headers, temporarily install an Aladdin modchip, flash the BIOS through the modchip with a TSOP BIOS, then pull the modchip. I find it faster than softmodding the XBOX first.
Thanks brother just ordered everything I’ll let you know how it goes
Don’t have an Xbox, but the way you described everything was perfect. not super rushed either
Subbed !
Yeah the Best Mode Video thx 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you very much! ❤
hi i you a link to the Cerbios v2.1.0 download please as the one ive tried have been taken down
Citrus solvent dissolves thermal paste real easy. Then clean up residue with iso afterwards.
I would first use distilled white vinager to stop the capacitor juice and then clean with ipa
You said at the end, what console you want to be modded next. I want you to show us Playstation 2 & 3 and X-Box 360 with 16TB.
80 wire IDE cable and SSD do not increase speed in a soft modded Xbox with a hard drive formatted to FAT32. Which has about 15mbps read speed on average. You need a drive formatted to nxFAT or NTFS to achive max drive speeds. People use to upgrade the Xbox original hard drive with a faster one and 80 wire IDE, but they had the original Xbox formatted drives, and not a modded drive.
Cerbios also allows for UDMA5 transfers so it will increase speed over IDE
A SSD formatted to fat32 is about 1 second faster. Not worth the money, it is faster but if you blink your eyes you won't notice. The 40 wire IDE cable supports 66Mbps. The 80 wire IDE is to connect to the SATA adapter on the hard drive and nothing more. Still not getting max speed with a SSD hooked to a 80 wire IDE cable. SSD needs a SATA cable for max speeds. Best to get a 4tb, 8tb, or 16tb HDD to benefit from Cerbios. XBMC4Gamers supports only 2 TB and can run with a softmod. Cerbios requires a modchip. So if I spend the money on a EEPROM programmer, and mod chip then I want something bigger than a 2Tb SSD. Not enough save space on a 2Tb drive with all Xbox games, NES, SNES, Mame, coin-ops. I might put a 4Tb HDD in one. Also a hard drive with 90% free space runs faster than one with 10% free space. So a 16tb 60Mbps drive formatted to fat32 with 90% free space is going to be faster than a 2Tb SSD with 1% free space also formatted to fat32. And this Xbox original hard drive was formatted to exFAT or NTFS by Microsoft, so this is why it will run faster with the original hard drive format, but when you mod the drives you reformat them to fat32 which is so slow it really don't benefit from the 80 wire IDE ribbon or SSD like the original Microsoft hard drive format would.
@@sleepwalker29you're so confidently wrong. Cerbios runs at ATA-7 now, (Udma 6).
The difference between a stock UDMA 2 and a UDMA 6 with SSD is phenomenally quicker.
Stop being so naive.
@@TroJanVirusMusic No, he was definitely correct and you are wrong here. The original xbox was built to handle IDE BUS drivers. UDMA6+ is available for those running larger SATA drives which take advantage of the SATA to IDE adapter speeds such as a Startech. This allows them to run at higher rates, but still does not magically add a new BUS for SSD to run faster. It's just the basics of the Xbox in a nutshell. Waste your money for that milisecond speed gain if you choose. It's just not logical to spend that much and recommend others to do the same for virtually no gain of function.
What nonsense is that? The XBOX uses FATX, not FAT32, ExFAT, NTFS or anything else. And the IDE bus on it supports UDMA-6. It is just disabled by default due to BIOS lock, and using a 40-wire cable. Hence the UDMA-2.
Of course a SATA SSD will work faster on SATA, but it will be noticeably faster than a mechanical HDD when the bus speed is 133MB/s. Just make sure to use an 80-wire IDE cable. Don't skip that.
One more thing, no spin-up time, and no seek times. This is already a big gain.
I have Cerbios but no ini file in the C drive. Where can I find a copy of that file?
is there any video tutorial you created for xbox using raspberry pico?thanks
Why do people remove the rubber feet from under the xbox? I'm curious cause I've always just peeled them back just to get the screw out and placed them back over the screw hole. I'm assuming because it's not always a clean peel. But I like to keep those rubber feet hahaha!
Quick question though, can this modchip make the Xbox work without a CD drive?
Yes. Cerbios supports bypassing the DVD drive check.
Having a weird issue when I go to the downloader in the Xbox settings menu. It doesn’t load or start and downloads to update it.
Had some problems with the mod ... turned out I was using and old EvoX bios, the old ide cable with a 2tb sata drive ... finally fixed it tho. now trying my second mod, but have some different issues. The chip installed just fine, the Evox logo shows up on startup ... but does not work with any other hdd other than the stock one. Also only still reads original discs, not burned discs ... it just shows up as Unknown in Unleash X (original hdd has softmod).
Did you have the SST chip upside down in your adapter at minute 9?
I’ve heard it’s not wise to remove the original thermal compound, as it’s not an ordinary paste.
Is there any way to update the BIOS once it's already flashed and working without reflashing the modchip?
When I go to the Cerbios github, the downloads there don't include a .bin file... otherwise great video
I have xbox 1.2 with chipmod bios evox d6? This bios is compatible, how do I update this bios?
i got a oler vercion of alladin mod chip is a way to mod like usb or other way thanks so much
Is it possible to change og Xbox hardmod into softmod ?
So we can use the chip to repair other broken/error code xbox
Awesome video!!! Can I use the XGecu T48 [TL866-3G] Programmer TL866CS TL866II Replacement Support 31000+ ICS for EPROM/MCU/SPI/Nor/NAND Flash/EMMC instead of the 34000+ you suggest? Thanks!
Yes. As far as I know the 2 programmers are almost identical.
I followed all instructions but, I didn't get the evo X logo
Do you think the ezp 2019/2023 can flash these plcc32 chips?
What is the cerbios file on your upgraded hdd? Does that get installed via fatx?
can i flash aladdin xt chip without programmer? direct on console? i have 1.6
On my Xbox all holes on the debug port are open, can I leave all the pins on the pin header then or should I however remove the one you have shown in your video? Thank you for the great video.
How much heat can be used so that way im careful I don’t burn the motherboard
So I have to program the chips myself? I almost bought one of these chips.
Great video. I purchased everything and tried as you stated but all I got was a green and red flashing light. Is there a setup in the program other than changing the chip model number?
This error is usually called FRAG. (Flashing red and green). It means the Xbox has failed to load the bios due to a hardware error. The most common cause of FRAG after installing a modchip is a bad solder connection at the LPC port. Those pads are very small so it is very easy to have a weak solder joint. There are some other things you could check too. When you programmed the new BIOS chip did you get a "programming successful" message? If so, your bios flash is good but you could always read the chip back in the programming software to verify. When you power the Xbox on does the modchip light up? If the light is off or dim you should check your pin header and D0 connection again. This error is extremely common so don't get discouraged. I'm sure you can get it working.
@@MadModLabs Thanks, I resodered everything and it worked as you said. Thank you.
@@Rlgoggs Awesome! I'm glad you got it working. Congrats!
@@MadModLabs I received a pre hard modded xbox and it also has Frag, it doesn't use a pin header and instead has individual wires connecting to the LPC port, what would be an easy fix for this?
@@majestic2876 definitely check the solder connections on those wires. Using individual wires serves the same purpose as a pin header, but it is easy to accidentally short 2 wires together on the modchip's quick solder pads.
I got this weird issue with Artwork installer ... for some reason the Download button stays green and I can keep installing it over and over. When it's done instaling, it doesn't seem to do anything and no artwork is loaded ... when I restart my Xbox, Artwork installer seemingly seems to be not even installed yet, anyone know what's going on? I believe my mod chip is a bit of an older one tho ... perhaps that is the problem? But then, I had no problem running Hexen disc and installing xbmc4gamers.
awesome tutorial, question, what is the extension of the games that you need to have if not on a .iso? Thanks
The games are composed of several files in their own folders. It is basically the files you would get if they were each copied from the original disks. If you have ISO files you can extract them with a program called XDVDMulleter: archive.org/details/xdvdmulleterv10.2beta
Any idea why my C drive would be empty after formatting it for Cerbios? I'm not seeing the bios files that showed up on yours
Followed every step; red and green flashing power led. Any ideas? Genuinely can't figure out what went wrong, though the internet insists it's an issue with the HDD?
@Appl3sandgrapes This error is usually called FRAG. (Flashing red and green). It means the Xbox has failed to load the bios due to a hardware error. The most common cause of FRAG after installing a modchip is a bad solder connection at the LPC port. Those pads are very small so it is very easy to have a weak solder joint. Double check the solder points and make sure D0 is correct. There are some other things you could check too. When you programmed the new BIOS chip did you get a "programming successful" message? If so, your bios flash is good but you could always read the chip back in the programming software to verify. When you power the Xbox on does the modchip light up? If the light is off or dim you should check your pin header and D0 connection again. This error is extremely common so don't get discouraged. I'm sure you can get it working.
@@MadModLabsthanks for getting back to me! I've played around with it a bit more, here's where I'm at now:
System boots now after reflowing everything, however it goes to error code 05; which console mods wiki indicates is either an issue with the tsop flash or the HDD not being locked/readable; I'm using an 80 pin high speed IDE so I don't think that's the issue at least, and if it was a bad cable I think it would go to error code 07 due to being unable to read the disc drive as well if I'm not mistaken. Oh, and for confirmations sake, the power led on the modchip is working and bright
I've double checked the chip on my reader and verified it against the cerbios.bin, which comes back as correct according to the software. The HDD, I've reformatted a few times thinking maybe it's not set up correctly or something to that effect, but everything seems to match the video, so I'm probably not looking at/for the right thing. Any ideas?
@@Appl3sandgrapes I wonder if it could be a problem with the SATA adapter. It sounds like the system may not be able to see the hard drive. Are you using the Startech SATA to IDE adapter or is it a different one?
@@MadModLabsI am using a stretch SATA adapter yeah; I thought the same thing and bought a second one just in case but unfortunately I had the same results with both of them. And fatxplorer reads the HDD just fine and has no issue formatting/reformatting for what that's worth
Is there any preparation to the xbox software before hand or just follow this in it's stock state without any softmod for hand?
A softmod is not needed for this setup.
Can you flash Cerbios with the TSOP method and just overwrite the xbox stock bios ?
is this process the same for a 1.6 xbox ?
There are a few extra steps to install this modchip in a 1.6 Xbox. The LPC port in the 1.6 is different and requires rewiring. Also, Cerbios is not supported on the 1.6 revision. You can still install hard drives up to 16TB in a 1.6 Xbox using the ExoX bios patched with Titan patch. Other than the LPC rebuild and BIOS incompatibility, the rest of this process is pretty much the same.
Thankyou...Do you need a rom programmer and adapter to flash Cerbios ? cant you do it with Hexen Disks ? cheeers
You can normally flash the bios from a bootable disk like Hexen. I have recently seen 2 of these Aladdin chips that can not be flashed this way. I think it is because they are clones. If you have an old Aladdin XT2 with the original chip you are probably good. If you are ordering a new chip from Aliexpress or Amazon, it would be a good idea to have a rom programmer handy.
This forum post has more information about this problem: www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/6051-aladdin-xt-plus2-fake-cant-flash-new-bios/
I purchased an Alladin xt2 from ebay seller and they confirmed CAN BE FLASHED WITH NEW CERBIOS (256K) Release V2.03 Hybrid (Xbox V1.0 - 1.5) Only on auction details stating BIOS (EVO X) already installed and can be reflashed. ?
Why do we need a new optical power and ide cable?
Howcto change bootanimation and remove ceebios logo on startup
Great tutorial, straightforward and detailed! Question: what if I only install the modchip without upgrading my hdd? I leave the original hdd as is. What advantages or any extra features will I get?
Everything except you have a small hard drive.
No advantages at all, you'll be worse off because you'll still have to use disks.
Now what would be the chances of you selling a fully modified Xbox?
I would consider selling them in the future if I have lots of surplus systems.
Amazing tutorial. 🎉
You deserve a medal 🏅
With the mini pro, do you need an adapter to read and write the SST chip?
Yes. The adapter is a PLCC32 to DIP32. It just makes the pins of the SST chip accessible to the mini pro's socket. Here is one like I used: amzn.to/3K5mXxW
@@MadModLabs thank you for the reply. I actually had GQ4X4 that I used to try and flash the SST, with the same adapter on Amazon. But.. it didn’t work. I did some investigating and found out that the GQ4X4 requires an adapter to make the SST chips work! They want another $15 for the adapter. I may have fried my SST chip since Vcc is around 5V. I wish they were more transparent.
Is the D0 soldering point on the top and bottom of the chip or should be soldering on the top of the chip/board only?
The Aladdin chips has a D0 on top and bottom. Both will work.
@@MadModLabs THe red light comes on, but it won't boot into the chip for some reason. I don't have a programmer either. Frustrated LOL!
@@feonjun if your Xbox is flashing red and green, definitely go back and check all your solder points. This is called a FRAG error. It is very common.
@@MadModLabs I took your advice and went over all the connection/soldered points and decided to put the D0 point on top like on your video. It works now.. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
@@feonjun Nice! I'm glad you got it working
If you’re using a solderless adapter that has ground d0, would that pass through the header on the Aladdin or would I need to connect directly to the chip?
Does anyone know if this mod gets around the Startech IDE to SATA adapter compatability issue with the Samsung model DVD drives?
Hi! The files that you need to download for your X-Box like the artwork, can you just download those and install it offline instead of re-downloading these things every time you need to reformat your console?
Just finished installed the aladdin. So with the new hard drive it only flashes green and red with the new hdd. Boots fine with stock xbox hdd woth the exception that it skips the Xbox boot animation. I flashed using a programmer. Could it be a bad chip or flash?
Does hard modding require a softmod? I would like to try this because my optical drive is having issues.
I ripped the DO pad off with ease, is the board toast or could I still softmod it?
The board is not toast yet. Pulling off pads is very easy to do. Fortunately, there are other D0 points. You can try repairing the damaged trace with a very fine piece of wire or try connecting one of the alternate D0 locations to a grounding point. Here is a Reddit post about it: www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/comments/w5kt0u/rookie_mistake_ripped_the_d0_pad_right_off_trying/&ved=2ahUKEwjZufmA5Zf-AhVUFFkFHUpNCvAQFnoECBMQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3Oz3YPdheUbC4oiFhPVwkh
What about 1.5 revision?
hello friend, which camera do you use to record your videos i really liked the video i also have several tutorials of the original xbox
Thank you! This video was recorded with a Google Pixel 4 XL.
The GPU adhesive will soften up with a hairdryer just enough. And WD40 is the best way to get rid of that glue thingy. ;) Also, which is the best bios to use for a bigger, at least 3TB hdd with? This, or evoX, in your newer video?
Go with the latest version of Cerbios for sure. It now supports all versions of the original Xbox.
@@MadModLabs Thank you ! If I'm ordering the cheapest aladin clone from aliexpress, is it still needs to be burned an edited rom?
@@cybcarr Yes. I have not seen any chips shipping with Cerbios already installed
@@MadModLabs Thank you! :)
I'll contact you if i can. Can I?
totally easy 😀
Pro TIp. Turn the XBOX on for 10 minutes and then take off the GPU Heat sync. Then use WD-40 to get the residue off.
Please refresh bios links
Use an OpenXenium, they don't need to be flashed externally at all
Link me? Or would any openzenium off Amazon work
@Majestic any would be fine, but MakeMhz had taken up the roll of supporting it and its software officially. They're almost always out of stock though
just have a couple things i want to comment on. if you like me like replaceing the clock capacitor tge original clock capacitor is a Super Capacitor. Idk how exactly it differs internally from a normal electrolitic capacitor but i don't think it's the same thing. the oem super caps Microsoft used are 2.5V not 2.7 but 2.7 is far easier to find these days and they work fine as a replacement for 2.5V. 1Farad is the oem capacitance but you can increase the Capacitance in theory keeping the time after unplugged longer than the original 1F in fact I fit 15F super capacitors in giving it in theory 15 times longer before the xbox can't keep its time after unplugged.
Secondly their is or has been a lot of debate if the og xbox should be replace the thermal compound or not, in my opinion i don't think they need it, it's just nice if you can BUT, if you attempt to replace the compound you need to have caution because if you apply to much force the CPU and especially GPU can detach from the board and i hear it's near imposable to lign up the CPU or GPU and reflow the solder correctly. So basically if you pull to hard the board is bricked and practically unfixable. In regards to the thermal paste from personal experience and conversations with someone with much more experience than I have. The Thermal Compound Microsoft used isn't thermal paste and maybe not even a pad, whatever they used is soft enough to have spread when the heatsink was put on the FIRST time but is and probably never was a paste. The thermal compound does appear to be different for Version 1.0-1.1 so that may not aply but as you can see in this video the Thermal compound judging from it's near perfect square shape and how it covers far more area than the actual component it is not a Paste but a Thermal Pad or something like it. What they used performs optimally ,at least enough to keep the CPU and GPU from getting to hot, to this day. So if you don't feel comfortable taking off the Heatsinks I personally feel you then shouldn't try replacing the original thermal compound.
If you ,like myself, do repasted your OG Xboxes be aware that the thermal paste YOU use will most likely have a expect performance lifespan of 5 or so years so i advise you change the New thermal past in 4 years or less. Unless you have a reliable way to compare how the paste performs in 4 years and it performs almost as well as the day it was applied. BTW you should not use a Thermal Pad because to my knowledge they don't thin down much so it would probably perform worse than the original Thermal compound does. Generaly speaking the thicker the layer of Thermal compound after applied and pressed the worse it performs at keeping the CPU/GPU cool.
None of this is ment to come across as an attack to Mad Mod Labs, I think this is a great channel i simply am responding to some bits of the information in this Video. And Thank you to the Mad Mod Labs for the video it's been entertaining to watch and has useful information to use.
Sorry for any typos or Grammar isues i have probably made.
Curious what happens if I don't replace with thermal paste. Will they eventually overheat and damage the board? Or is it a simple replace whenever they finally break
@@readysetrekt3414 I don't have enough experimented evidence to know for %100 sure but from the information i know of, If the heatsinks aren't removed and thus the thermal compound isn't changed it will not overheat so long as the system isn't excessively dusty. With that said on the chance i'm wrong and the system overheats it may cause permanent damage and the common overheating symptom of turning itself off mid game(because consoles usualy are set to turn off at a set high temperature set from the factory). So far I have not heard of a instance a original Xbox turns itself off conclusively from overheating directly because the the thermal compound wasn't performing optimally enough, so as i mentioned earlier if someone isn't comfortable removing the heatsinks not messing with it is a safe option.
An xbox will turn itself off if you don't have any functional fans. It monitors chip temps and will save itself if a heatsink is at least installed. If the chip is bare, yeah it'll probably heat up quickly enough to kill itself.
As for removing the heatsinks without much force, just warm them up with some hot air and the paste loosens. They come off super easy when warm.
To remove the paste more cleanly than shown in this video, use electrical contact cleaner that contains hexanes, like Puretronics 3600. Isopropyl alcohol does basically nothing. Acetone may also work but I haven't tested yet and if you drop any on the plastics it will damage them.
@@CasualGamerCC I just cleaned up mine and I used %100 acetone and a thin pillow sheet. It worked much better than alcohol. 10/10, got it off in 30 seconds. Crusty paste is a little harder to get off though but not by much.
From what I see going on with the Aladdin mod chip, I would advise everyone to stay away from those chips. Not everyone has a programmer. But you do you.
감사합니다.
Next, upgrade the ram to 128mb!
fair rad?
Literally just bought a launch console with the duke for $50 lol
You got a good deal! Hope you enjoy it 👍
Do you have to do all that reflashing business? Looks like lots of reviewers on Aliexpress had their consoles boot straight away after installing the chip.
At the time that I purchased my chip, The chips were shipping with an older version of the software. I flashed my chip this way because I knew with 100% certainty that it would work and I could use Cerbios, which was still very new at the time.
Cant get half of this shit anymore
Can I get the your book offering when you subscribe
"Careful not to lift up this trace"
Sounds like someone's had past experiences or knows someone who has.
I did that, with my first ever mod, used far to thin a wire just cos it was all I had, & it worked just fine for about 6 months before the wire snapped, & then the resolder, well that didn't go so well, pad came away, the trace is ever so slightly lifted, & I just stopped there before it got entirely destroyed.
Christ, that was almost 2 years ago now.
😀
That's not thermal paste, it hasn't "hardened", and it does not need to be replaced. It is a PCM (phase change material) which is dry when cool and soft when warm. It can last for many decades because it's not thermal paste and has completely different properties. Also, Arctic Silver 5 is an ancient formula at this point and far from the best.
This is not the best or ultimate 😂😂😂 my 4gb build is way better
Meh. I'm cool with simply changing my game discs like we've always did .....
ᑭяỖｍｏ𝓼𝐦 ✅