Great video Ugly. When I was doing mine, I encountered that my 2007 Nissan Murano SL AWD was a Model WITHOUT INTERMEDIATE SHAFT. For those who don't know, DON'T TRY TO SEPARATE THEM. Its one whole piece. Make sure you know which one you have before you order it.
needing to do this very thing on a 2011 murano soon-ish thanks so much for posting it, i got some sensations as if the transaxle is slipping during acceleration feeding through the floorboards during turns.
I agree with pretty much every action you took, minus using that Tie Rod separator on the air hammer. You fully split the tie rod boot. All the grease will leak out and then the owner is going to need a tie rod. You should have sprayed penetrating fluid on it then given the mounting point on the side of the knuckle some love taps with at least a 32Oz Hammer. Would have saved the owners boot on the tie rod.
Because I just got an alignment and the mechanic said I need a new axle on my 2009 Nissan Murano passenger front and they want to charge me $800 for everything that's very expensive
2009 is different.... the shaft now goes into the differential and has it's own carrier bearing. I just did one and only a bit more complex and took about a half hour longer...!!!
Is the ring on the transmission shaft the cv slides over necessary it broke, so I just put it on with out it. The bolt on end by brakes should hold it on fine I would think.
I appreciate your putting this video out there. I want to respectfully state that you put the system back together using an air tool and not using a torque wrench. Besides that being wrong and potentially damaging/unsafe, as a DIY'er it annoys me greatly when I have to undo a bolt that someone has cranked down to 1 gajillion ft lbs with an air wrench without thinking about what they are doing. And the strut mounting bolts were put in backwards. The trashed tie rod end boot has already been commented on below.
yea ive gone threw this before on my air tool the torque isnt above spec it gets torqued when the vehicle is let down and the vehicle got sent out for alignment so the bolt placment wasnt a issue when i did this video i was just getting into the youtube stuff didnt realize how crutial some details needed to be but thanks for the input i have already applied it to most videos
I have 2011 Murano AWD, all axle boot are original and in good condition. When I reverse the SUV and turn it R/s (passenger side) the axle makes noise. Can you tell me which side of inner axle makes that sound?
thats fair its cheaper then what i would have charged we are talking a shop right and you dont need to do both unless they both have ripped boots or are causing a vibration
@@uglyhp8225 I call bull shit. You want everything to wear evenly as possible. Anything you do to one side you should do to the other side. Only replacing 1 side is a hack job
I did leave the nut on. I put back on til flush with the nut. It doesn’t take nothing to bend them threads on the axle or nut for them axles. Their is a forum on the issue As we speak to how weak the threads are on them axles. I’d recommend putting a block on the end for safety so help soften the hit to the nut
i would say anything over 100.00 a hr for labor and anything over markup of 100%would be to much so if the axle costed 80.00 and the labor is 1.5 if it was over 310.00 (this is just a example) i would say it was to much
Took way to much stuff off, you don't have to remove brake caliper or rotor or take the spindle assembly bolts loose from Strut, and you don't have to remove the tie rod end, all you have to do is take lower ball joint loose, take axle nut off let the Strut kick out pull axle loose from short shaft first then remove axle by pushing it out of wheel bearing, lift axle up and to the left there's enough room for it to clear bearing, slide axle out.
@ Jerry Taylor.... Separating the lower ball joint maybe harder. Mine was rust frozen. Couldn't get bolt out after pounding it to death. Any tricks you know to free up a rust frozen ball joint retaining bolt on a Murano?
Just pulled the bad alternator out of an ‘05 and saw the CV boot was torn. Thanks for the video. Now I know what to expect. 👍🏻
Struggling with snap rings on both CV axles, i'm re-assembling it. :( Got it done, thanks to you and others that contributed videos on the subject.
Thanks, I had troubles getting axle in, hammer solves all ! Good job in explaining.
Glad it helped!
Great video Ugly. When I was doing mine, I encountered that my 2007 Nissan Murano SL AWD was a Model WITHOUT INTERMEDIATE SHAFT. For those who don't know, DON'T TRY TO SEPARATE THEM. Its one whole piece. Make sure you know which one you have before you order it.
I have a 2003 SL AWD. How do I know if it's intermediate or not? Before tearing it apart?
@@opticpoet 2wd long shaft, awd short shaft.
needing to do this very thing on a 2011 murano soon-ish thanks so much for posting it, i got some sensations as if the transaxle is slipping during acceleration feeding through the floorboards during turns.
Will I need an alignment after doing this job?
Hey bro Great video thanks for sharing.
I agree with pretty much every action you took, minus using that Tie Rod separator on the air hammer. You fully split the tie rod boot. All the grease will leak out and then the owner is going to need a tie rod. You should have sprayed penetrating fluid on it then given the mounting point on the side of the knuckle some love taps with at least a 32Oz Hammer. Would have saved the owners boot on the tie rod.
that tie rod was getting replaced we just didnt do it in the video because the part was a day out but i do agree with using the hammer
In that case thats a two thumbs up lol.
@@micainecarberry3931 one to many steps you dont not have to remove outer tie rod to replace the CV axle left or right side
Because I just got an alignment and the mechanic said I need a new axle on my 2009 Nissan Murano passenger front and they want to charge me $800 for everything that's very expensive
2009 is different.... the shaft now goes into the differential and has it's own carrier bearing. I just did one and only a bit more complex and took about a half hour longer...!!!
Thanks for the video!! You show how to do it like walking in the park...
Great job!! Thanks.
Is the ring on the transmission shaft the cv slides over necessary it broke, so I just put it on with out it. The bolt on end by brakes should hold it on fine I would think.
I appreciate your putting this video out there. I want to respectfully state that you put the system back together using an air tool and not using a torque wrench. Besides that being wrong and potentially damaging/unsafe, as a DIY'er it annoys me greatly when I have to undo a bolt that someone has cranked down to 1 gajillion ft lbs with an air wrench without thinking about what they are doing. And the strut mounting bolts were put in backwards. The trashed tie rod end boot has already been commented on below.
yea ive gone threw this before on my air tool the torque isnt above spec it gets torqued when the vehicle is let down and the vehicle got sent out for alignment so the bolt placment wasnt a issue when i did this video i was just getting into the youtube stuff didnt realize how crutial some details needed to be but thanks for the input i have already applied it to most videos
@@uglyhp8225 Hey thanks for letting me know. Liked the video otherwise. Sorry to nitpick :-)
Buen mecanico👌
GOOD EDUCATIONAL , THANK YOU SO MUCH
how hard is it to replace the front differential?
Thanks for the video bud ..
Hi there , i guess you should have cleaned inside the CV axle's transmission
connection and put a new Sealing as well ...
I have 2011 Murano AWD, all axle boot are original and in good condition. When I reverse the SUV and turn it R/s (passenger side) the axle makes noise. Can you tell me which side of inner axle makes that sound?
not with out it in front of me but if your asking if its front or rear since it happens when you turn then most likely its in the front
Is $95 for front cv axle replacement a fair price for labor? and should I replace both? thanks.
thats fair its cheaper then what i would have charged we are talking a shop right and you dont need to do both unless they both have ripped boots or are causing a vibration
@@uglyhp8225 I call bull shit. You want everything to wear evenly as possible. Anything you do to one side you should do to the other side. Only replacing 1 side is a hack job
Why do you take the strut off instead of the lower ball joint?
it makes for more room
That tie rod end needs replacing...
the guy below you beat you to it months ago
the wheel moves only up down only & not side to side could still be the axles? when on jacks? thanks
that sounds like ball joint issue
Thank you Ugly HP ..
Watch hitting that nut. My threads ruined from hitting it unfortunately:(. Thank god for warranty lol
thats why you leave the nut on the end so you dont ruin the threads
I did leave the nut on. I put back on til flush with the nut. It doesn’t take nothing to bend them threads on the axle or nut for them axles. Their is a forum on the issue As we speak to how weak the threads are on them axles. I’d recommend putting a block on the end for safety so help soften the hit to the nut
how much if any cvt fluid did you need to add after the repair
none we probably would lose some on the driver side but all vehicles are different ive seen some not lose any and then ive seen ones lose 2 quarts
How much is too much to pay at a shop for the two front?
i would say anything over 100.00 a hr for labor and anything over markup of 100%would be to much so if the axle costed 80.00 and the labor is 1.5 if it was over 310.00 (this is just a example) i would say it was to much
Part on motor stayed i pulled damn shaft right out, need a shorter pry bar dont have the luxury of a hoist to get real leverage.
was that a dealer axle. what's the price on that. or what brand did you use.
i use aftermarket they run me 49.99 havent had a issue yet
where did you order it from?
oreillys
He should use WD-40 and rubber hammer...Too many dudes forget the ease of OIL geez
yea because rubber hammers get the job done.you would tear the rubber off the hammer before the hog ring collapses enough to pop in
Any way you can make a vídeo of how to change the center support bearing on the driveshaft of a nissan murano 2005 ?
Please thank you
if one comes in
Awesome ill be looking forward to watch the vídeo
Thank you
is this a 2009 nissan murano
А пыльник рулевого наконечника кто менять будет?????
You cut the boot on the tie rod..
look like you already broke the new one .. .. they say no recomend do like that
its not broke go play with your rc cars and leave the real cars to the big boys
careless and improper repair.
shouldnt you be worried about software installations the way i did it is how 99% of the mechanics will do it
Took way to much stuff off, you don't have to remove brake caliper or rotor or take the spindle assembly bolts loose from Strut, and you don't have to remove the tie rod end, all you have to do is take lower ball joint loose, take axle nut off let the Strut kick out pull axle loose from short shaft first then remove axle by pushing it out of wheel bearing, lift axle up and to the left there's enough room for it to clear bearing, slide axle out.
@ Jerry Taylor.... Separating the lower ball joint maybe harder. Mine was rust frozen. Couldn't get bolt out after pounding it to death. Any tricks you know to free up a rust frozen ball joint retaining bolt on a Murano?
liquid kroil would have loosened them nuts
Tie rod boot borken!
too much load on the brake lines!
still better then your 2 videos
Good excuse to screw up the tie rod boot! :)
if its being replaced then why does it matter
Install time Hammering no good . And you not use the safety hand gloves .
What's the correct way?