Good job. Nice video. Great not having to take the axle bolt off. This isn’t so hard to do with a two post lift, a professional spring compressor, the special tool for holding the arm down and a transmission jack. A bit more difficult without all those tools, whilst working outside on your driveway 😂. Replace any bolts that have an angle turn in the tightening settings, they are stretch bolts. If your shocks are old and or damaged now would be a good time to replace them. Likewise with the top mounts.
Wanted to thank you for all the help as the install was successful. One note to people in America getting the replacement strut assembly from AutoZone. The 3 bolts on the top mount are SAE 1/2", not 13 mm like the original. That threw me for a loop for a minute with the torque wrench. America always has to be different smh
13:35 I didn't have the spreading tool so i made one with an m10 bolt, i just ground down the thread and metal on two sides so it was more of an oval, then just used a ratchet and socket to turn it to spread the rub and it worked really well to my surprise lol. Hey Alex been watching some of your older videos recently and they are really good man. Keep up the good content man. 👍😄
Thank you! I really appreciate your support :) The passenger side one I would say you have to remove the drive shaft out of the hub as it will make it a lot easier!
I don’t have a car lift or long bar for pulling the hub down, so I used a small bottle jack for separating the bottom of the shock from the hub. The socket separator for the split at the back is a real boon, cheap to buy on eBay. I didn’t need to remove the brake tube carrier, but I did cut the drop link as I wanted to replace that too, the splined holes kept rotating, cut them off with a angle grinder! The stretch bolts are remove and replace! , cheap as chips to buy.
Still trying to wrap my head around where you put the jack but most importantly, what is the separation tool called or what was the search words that you used?
@@MarkSegree suspension strut splitter tool, it’s a socket with an oval pry tool in the end, you place it at the back of the hub where the split is, then rotate it 90* to open the hub out. It’s a small amount but enough, just make sure you wet the area well with wd40 or similar first. I placed the bottle jack tight against the bottom of the strut on the small shoulder of the hub surrounding the strut, then placing the top under the part where the spring bottom rests, gently does it and it pops out.
Good vid but you missed a important point about the top mounts. They are directional theres two arrows on them and they should bolt in with one arrow pointing to the front and the other to the back of the car.
How do you put the shock back into that shackle at the bottom?! 27:14 I’m stuck I can’t manipulate it man that’s the hardest part & up skipped over the whole process.
This is proving fairly difficult so far, but i just began this weekend. The sway bar link came off easily, but that bolt holding the strut is a rough one. The nut on the end came off with minimal struggle, and i slid it back on a bit per your suggestion for hammering the end. My main problem now is i don't have an impact driver with enough torque. How many foot pounds is your driver? The regular hand ratchet isn't going to do the trick. I've lubricated it a lot and did hammer a chisel between the knuckle
Hi buddy. I have the same spring compressor but having trouble using it how do you line up the shockabsorber to be in center of the coil spring while pumping up so the top mount can go on correctly. I see you have used a shim is this nessary.
Hi there..yeah I have those issues. The quality isn't the best to be honest. Having grease on the sliding part helps as it gets stuck on the base when spring pushes to much to one side
Thanks allot for showing the possibility to remove the strut without removing driveshaft that needs thst special vw 12spline socket special tool that makes me dislike vw more and more compared to French and Japanese cars that also got less rust afak
Hi there I'm in Ireland, my mechanic is really busy and he's always been trustworthy and my front left spring is clunking. He said it needs to be replaced. It's Tuesday and he said hes up the walls he'll fix it Friday but I'm not around Friday. So he said Monday will be ok.... it's not totally gone or snapped in half. Just on the way out. Should it be ok until then
So it's just a bit on the end that snapped? If its still seating in the mount ok and not on the edge you should be ok. I would recommend avoiding driving though to be safe. I would also recommend doing top mount in the same time
@@AlexTheGrumpyOne Yeah it's well seated in the mount and secure I rang the mechanic again he said it's slightly bent and causing the clunky noise. Just take it easy until then and no rough rural roads...it's not fully snapped yet Thanks for your speedy response much appreciated 💫👍
Nah its not, the anti roll bar goes underneath the drive shaft when pressing down to get strut out it the drive shaft touches the the bar. also it is a 6mm allen for the top if the strut on a mk1 not 7 has in the mk2
Hi Alex I'm new to your channel, I hope you can help me fixing a problem on my 2012 Skoda fabia 1.6tdi. The problem is, the engine was shaking very badly, so I took it to a garage which they said it's injector problem, we changed the injector but the engine still shaking, although the scanner has no fault registered after the fitting of the injector, the mechanic said maybe is the ECU!!!! But o doubt it!! What do you think is the problem!?
Hello and welcome :) I am sorry to hear that you experiencing problems with your car. I'll try and help as much as I can. First thing is... we're the new injectors brand new or refurbished? Did he code them and learned the values after fitting them?
This will not work on a 2017 Tiguan Passenger side. The axle will hit the lower A arm before it gets low enough and thats with completely disconnected the sway bar.
Good job. Nice video. Great not having to take the axle bolt off.
This isn’t so hard to do with a two post lift, a professional spring compressor, the special tool for holding the arm down and a transmission jack. A bit more difficult without all those tools, whilst working outside on your driveway 😂.
Replace any bolts that have an angle turn in the tightening settings, they are stretch bolts. If your shocks are old and or damaged now would be a good time to replace them. Likewise with the top mounts.
Thank you very much.
Yeah without the lift is a pain, I've done that for long time.
Best thing I've ever got haha
Brilliant video, made it look simple. Cheers
Thank you for your support :) I appreciate it
Wanted to thank you for all the help as the install was successful. One note to people in America getting the replacement strut assembly from AutoZone. The 3 bolts on the top mount are SAE 1/2", not 13 mm like the original. That threw me for a loop for a minute with the torque wrench. America always has to be different smh
Awesome 👌 thank you for the helpful info as well 😀
13:35 I didn't have the spreading tool so i made one with an m10 bolt, i just ground down the thread and metal on two sides so it was more of an oval, then just used a ratchet and socket to turn it to spread the rub and it worked really well to my surprise lol.
Hey Alex been watching some of your older videos recently and they are really good man. Keep up the good content man.
👍😄
Hello bud! Thank you 😀
Yep thats great! Well done for making the tool up bud! I use to use chisel before. That works as a treat as well.
@@AlexTheGrumpyOne Oops fixed my spelling mistake. Yeah chisels work great too.
Awesome video with top quality production. I plan on swapping the Tiguan suspension onto my Sportwagen. This is very informative.
Thank you! I really appreciate your support :)
The passenger side one I would say you have to remove the drive shaft out of the hub as it will make it a lot easier!
I don’t have a car lift or long bar for pulling the hub down, so I used a small bottle jack for separating the bottom of the shock from the hub. The socket separator for the split at the back is a real boon, cheap to buy on eBay. I didn’t need to remove the brake tube carrier, but I did cut the drop link as I wanted to replace that too, the splined holes kept rotating, cut them off with a angle grinder! The stretch bolts are remove and replace! , cheap as chips to buy.
Well done! That's great news. I use to do them in a similar way before I had a car lift :)
Still trying to wrap my head around where you put the jack but most importantly, what is the separation tool called or what was the search words that you used?
@@MarkSegree suspension strut splitter tool, it’s a socket with an oval pry tool in the end, you place it at the back of the hub where the split is, then rotate it 90* to open the hub out. It’s a small amount but enough, just make sure you wet the area well with wd40 or similar first.
I placed the bottle jack tight against the bottom of the strut on the small shoulder of the hub surrounding the strut, then placing the top under the part where the spring bottom rests, gently does it and it pops out.
Thank you for your help. Thats a very good instruction there
Nice work Alex 👍🏻
Thank you 😀
Good vid but you missed a important point about the top mounts. They are directional theres two arrows on them and they should bolt in with one arrow pointing to the front and the other to the back of the car.
Thank you. Yes that true. I did mentioned about marking the bolts at the top to make sure you fit it the right way back in due to that situation.
What a horrible design. Glad I watched this, def not doing this myself, I'll take it to a shop even tho its freakn stupid expensive now
How do you put the shock back into that shackle at the bottom?! 27:14 I’m stuck I can’t manipulate it man that’s the hardest part & up skipped over the whole process.
This is proving fairly difficult so far, but i just began this weekend. The sway bar link came off easily, but that bolt holding the strut is a rough one. The nut on the end came off with minimal struggle, and i slid it back on a bit per your suggestion for hammering the end. My main problem now is i don't have an impact driver with enough torque. How many foot pounds is your driver? The regular hand ratchet isn't going to do the trick. I've lubricated it a lot and did hammer a chisel between the knuckle
Just saw the video description. Milwaukee 3/8
Yep that's the one. Brilliant tool by the way
@@AlexTheGrumpyOne I shelled out for the Milwaukee with 4 AH battery. Hopefully that'll be enough.
@@AlexTheGrumpyOne one more quick question, could you preemptively use the strut spreader bit before the bolt is out instead of the chisel?
The bolt needs to be out to before you use that.
U can get the bolt out by turning it first if its stuck
Great video and great description of the whole process. Thanks
You are welcome! I am glad that you find it helpful! Good Luck with your one!
Very informant video thanks
Thank you 😀
Hi buddy. I have the same spring compressor but having trouble using it how do you line up the shockabsorber to be in center of the coil spring while pumping up so the top mount can go on correctly.
I see you have used a shim is this nessary.
Hi there..yeah I have those issues. The quality isn't the best to be honest. Having grease on the sliding part helps as it gets stuck on the base when spring pushes to much to one side
Excellent vid, thank you
Thank you 😀
nice explaining. helps me
Thank you I appreciate your support 😀
If only one spring was broken, would you have still replaced both front springs at same time?
That's what manufacturers recommend. I can tell.u that a lot of people and garages just replace one
Thanks allot for showing the possibility to remove the strut without removing driveshaft that needs thst special vw 12spline socket special tool that makes me dislike vw more and more compared to French and Japanese cars that also got less rust afak
No worries at all. Yep trust me they are a pain
Hi...@26.30, do we need to consider the arrow direction on top of the mounting in order to install this absorber?
Yes, it goes the same way as it came out 😀
Great video - thanks for uploading ! Very informative !
You are welcome :) I'm glad you found it helpful. Good luck with your one.
Alex - sorry to bother you but could you share where you got the spring compressor from ?
No problem at all. Sorry I forgot to put that in description as well.
here is the link to it: amzn.to/3czb6XY
Hi there I'm in Ireland, my mechanic is really busy and he's always been trustworthy and my front left spring is clunking. He said it needs to be replaced. It's Tuesday and he said hes up the walls he'll fix it Friday but I'm not around Friday. So he said Monday will be ok....
it's not totally gone or snapped in half. Just on the way out.
Should it be ok until then
So it's just a bit on the end that snapped?
If its still seating in the mount ok and not on the edge you should be ok.
I would recommend avoiding driving though to be safe.
I would also recommend doing top mount in the same time
@@AlexTheGrumpyOne Yeah it's well seated in the mount and secure I rang the mechanic again he said it's slightly bent and causing the clunky noise. Just take it easy until then and no rough rural roads...it's not fully snapped yet
Thanks for your speedy response much appreciated 💫👍
How many hours labor wise are we looking at to replace the front pair? VW is charging an extreme amount.
Hi there. Usually depends if things come undone and if the antiroll bar links come undone as well.
I would say 1 hour and 30 min each side at max.
@@AlexTheGrumpyOne okay thanks they want to charge 1500$ in labor... Didn't know they included their lunch breaks 😂
Bloody hell! Haha that's expensive
What year of vehicle are you working on?!?!
2009
Hi. Is it a Mk1 or 2 Tig.
That one is mk2 but it's the same as mk1
Nah its not, the anti roll bar goes underneath the drive shaft when pressing down to get strut out it the drive shaft touches the the bar. also it is a 6mm allen for the top if the strut on a mk1 not 7 has in the mk2
Did You forget to shove the top bumber rubber into the top bearing housing !
Hi there. No I haven't. Didn't I show it in the Video? Sorry
It didn’t end well for my car. The drive shaft is easy to take off, my suspension wouldn’t go back in. Wish I had taken the drive shaft off first
Was it on the same side or the passenger side one?
Hi Alex
I'm new to your channel, I hope you can help me fixing a problem on my 2012 Skoda fabia 1.6tdi.
The problem is, the engine was shaking very badly, so I took it to a garage which they said it's injector problem, we changed the injector but the engine still shaking, although the scanner has no fault registered after the fitting of the injector, the mechanic said maybe is the ECU!!!! But o doubt it!! What do you think is the problem!?
Hello and welcome :)
I am sorry to hear that you experiencing problems with your car.
I'll try and help as much as I can.
First thing is... we're the new injectors brand new or refurbished? Did he code them and learned the values after fitting them?
@@AlexTheGrumpyOne yes he did code them all again, but the shaking still here
@@AlexTheGrumpyOne the injector is refurbished yes alex
What's confusing is there's no fault shown on IIOBD at all !!!
If the injection isn't coded it will not show faults sometimes.
This will not work on a 2017 Tiguan Passenger side. The axle will hit the lower A arm before it gets low enough and thats with completely disconnected the sway bar.
Great video! Awesome instructions.
Thank you 😀 I'm glad that it is helpful