The two things God let the devil design.... any form of cir-clips and McPherson struts. Both are designed to mame or injure. But mostly to be lost in the abyss of space.
Just saw this video. I've worked in the industry for over 20 years and used these spring compressors so many times I can't count. The biggest mistakes people make using these compressors are 1. Not using lube on the bolts to extend the life of the threads and reducing heat damage and stripping on the threads, 2. Impacting or wrenching them waaaayyy too far putting undue tension on the cast "ends" and cracking them, just enough to take the tension off the top mount is plenty, and 3. Not inspecting a loaner tool before using it in case the last idiots who rented them didn't to the first 2. Keep up the good work.
Great info. I'm no pro but was taught by a very knowledgeable and skilled DIY mechanic. He taught me everything you just said. I've done quite a few of these jobs and it can be nerve wracking for sure but with these 3 tips and good overall safety practices, it can be done easily and safely.
Great advice. I'm a professional mechanic who has to plan for avoiding things that scare me more than compressed coil springs [like arc blast] - I'm in automation, at least for the next 2 weeks before I become a road warrior and do building and equipment maintenance all over. Potential energy is something people don't think enough about. You're essentially creating a mechanical "battery" with the compressors. As long as everything holds up, you don't have to deal with the "shock" and I've seen someone impact the strut nut off the top and rocket a strut assembly into their garage floor taking a big chunk and leaving a crack and coming to rest after making a hole in the wall. Missed their foot by inches on the way down and their body by less than a foot. Never ever ever cheap out on jackstands, ramps, coil spring compressors, or any other equipment that your life depends on. Keep them from rust, heat, mechanical damage, etc and inspect them before and after every use. Discard/warranty any item that's damaged. Never attempt to repair damaged potential energy storage equipment.
@DO NOT BE DECEIVED: THE WICKED WONT ENTER HEAVEN. "Slaves, submit yourselves to your masters with all respect, not only to the good and gentle but also to the cruel." 1 Peter 2:18
Rent two sets of spring compressors. Put as many of the compressors on the springs that will fit (three or four). If one slips or fails, the extra compressors will prevent a sudden release of spring energy. Safety in numbers.
That’s what I do too. Also I would check the price of a new strut and spring assembly. If they’re not terribly more expensive, I would replace the whole assembly.
When I do replace the suspension on my car, hopefully they have good assemblies (modern car so there should be a ton available). If not, I will just buy a strut and a spring for a pro to do. And then I'll bring the used ones to them to make it safer for a recycling center if sorts. Springs, especially of that tension land are not to be taken lightly.
So did you disarm ied in sandbox? Of you must use ALWAYS use horizontal. And keep you foot on it with Steal toe boots. He is correct. Spend the money and get them loaded.. not worth the risk...also compress inside more to maintain Arc on reinstall... Better yet just NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pro tip: before removing the top spring cap, mark the orientation between the top cap and the rest of the strut assembly, otherwise, like me, you will reassemble the strut (that looks about right) and it will be rotated a half an inch off and will not fit with the rest of the suspension. After scratching your head a bit, you will resign yourself to re-removing it, re-compressing it, shifting the cap a half inch and re-reassembling it. Save yourself the extra hour of work and just mark the cap before initial disassembly.
Lol...did the same:)) I found a video where - at last at Acura TSX (Honda Accord CL7 in Europe) you have the align the top second bolt, with the bottom of the sock absorber where you have a factory mark. Will work like a charm.
This happened to me but luckily I was installing lowering springs so the spring wasn't as snug with the shocks as the bigger springs were so I could just rotate the whole assembly from the mounting plate with a hammer lol
One important safety tip. When handling the compressor tool with the compressed spring, NEVER point the top of the strut towards your face or any part of your body. Just in case an accident happens, the loosened top of the strut will never hit your face or body if you never point it at your face or body in the first place.
@@TyinAlaska Yep, and it would still hurt, could even still hurt you bad enough to kill you. But its significantly less energy taking it off a recoil than it is an initial pop off of that spring. Still not desirable, but the less energy you can get hit with the better!
Ok so a few tips for dealing with big springs so you don't kill yourself. 1: if it goes, it's flying in the direction it's laying. Keep your body out of the kill zone. 2: ALWAYS undo bolts that are holding spring tension slowly. 3: Slow is smooth, smooth is calm, calm means you can think, thinking about what you're doing keeps you alive. Take your damn time and make sure everything is properly seated and aligned before you start applying tension on the spring compressors. Please don't do what my uncle did and not check your gear. on a spring compressor, any rust aside from extremely minor surface rust should be considered suspicious. 4: those coil springs hold up a damn car. treat a compressed coil spring like a live impact grenade. you drop it, it's sending something across your shop hard enough to embed into concrete. 5: make sure the idiots around you know you're working with what is essentially the mechanical version of a gun. again, you don't want Danny dumbass bumping into you and causing you to drop the spring.
@@allangibson8494 false. The spring mechanism was used to propel the spigot which had a firing pin that when slammed into the explosive cartridge, ignited it and that is what propelled it. By doing this, the inertia of the spigot rod counteracted the energy expelled by the cartridge and decreases recoil.
When I did my Town Car I rented one of these. The biggest problem was the minimal space between the coils and the small diameter of the spring. I have done this dozens of times on other vehicles and this was the sketchiest. In fact, halfway through I went in the house and cleared my computer history. You know - just in case.
Great video. I have the old-style spring compressors without the safety clips. I've never had a problem and I did use a compressor rachet on the entire thing. You have to be careful and always keep the top of the strut pointed away from you while the spring is under tension. And I like that you kept the coiled, tensioned spring on the ground and immediately put the new strut in it and resecured the entire thing right away. Don't touch the spring, just get the darn thing rebuilt, right on the ground safely, and move on. One thing I would say is only compress the spring enough to get the top cap off. Do NOT over compress the spring. If you are bending the bolt on the spring compressor, you are overtightening the nut. You only need enough tension to remove the cap safely. As soon as you see the spring gap at top or bottom STOP. As you loosen the top bolt on the strut, it should be relatively easy to remove, and the spring should not be moving up with it. Be careful and pay attention to what you are doing or like you said, let a Pro do it.
I own a set like that, without the safety pins. Used it a few times, without any issues. The key is to take your time and do it slowly. This is definitely a job that you don't want to rush.
@Fred Wills too right. I've owned the same type of compressors as you for 25yrs, never had a problem. Use them properly as the video shows. Impact wrench really helps.
@@soundsolutions Yeah those bolts are probably rated at enough yield strength to lift the whole car, I doubt they've ever actually made many widows. Probably more from seating tire beads.
I was thinking the same thing. I've been modifying and repairing vehicles for over 20 years, since I was 16, and never once thought that this was scary or difficult. I've done shocks/struts at least 100 times. Now doing it without this tool is scary, that nut shoots off of the top like a bullet haha
Emphasis on taking your time and doing it slowly. That includes not using an air gun on it. With the gun, it's tougher to keep both sides at the same amount of compression. Also, never point the ends of the spring toward anything important, like your body parts.
I've changed hundreds of strut cartridges using those spring compressors & never had one problem with them. They grab onto the spring exceptionally well.
I havent done hundreds but I've done a few and same, never had an issue. On older, classic cars that used springs and shocks instead of struts, I used a chain with a pad lock to tie the spring to the control arm just in case if it ever decided it wanted to go it wasnt gonna go far.
Never had problems with theses type of compressors. Once used some home made ones where the hook over the spring were hard metal and were sliding, plus no safety pin/ screw. I didn't complete the job with them as I envisaged trapped thumbs if they slipped round. Overall good video, informative and helpful to DIY or apprentice mechanics. 👌
I think the problem is people are sacred of them because they've heard "stories" like many of us have. Not saying it's not true but they're like firearms....no need to be afraid just respect the tools and pay attention to what you're doing.
I’ve had the same set-sets for thirty years, only issue I had was a stripped rod from a sliver of metal getting sucked in while turning the nut. Like every tool, there is a correct way to use it. To do that you must be….. smart enough to do so and…… actually paying attention to what your doing with it. I would be willing to bet most accidents happen because people weren’t careful or had no worldly reason to be touching that tool in the first place. I have met way to many ‘mechanics’ that really aren’t and shouldn’t be.
On my first car (Golf 4, 2.0) I had my mechanic uncle help me and teach me a bunch of stuff about working on cars. We renovated the motor and did a LOT of maintenance on it and it was a great learning experience. As we changed and replaced more and more parts we came to the struts. He told me to be extremely careful when putting the springs under pressure and not touch it at all when it's loaded ( he didn't let me do it just to be clear, he just showed me). He said that it was possible for the spring to fly out of the contraption and basically break your arm if you were handling it at the time, but also that it could just plain kill you if it hit you in the head. Man I was scared, when he started going to town with the impact, I backed off and he looked at me and just asked: "Are you scared?" I answer: "yeah... hehe..." and then he just said: "Good, you should be" nonchalantly but still serious. Great memories :)
Similar thing with an ex mechanic friend. He would do repairs for people who couldn't afford it at honestly very selfless prices (generally less than the customer wanted to pay, he is a great guy). But spring was something he would take a garage, the place he went was a friends shop but he just did not want the risk himself.
@@4uh8rz2nv Good that's all that happened. You know human bodies and injuries though. Some people get blown up, shot, then blown up again and survive and others die straining on the toilet. Anything can happen!
I took an auto shop class in highschool, and we had an industrial spring compressor. It was the only thing that our teacher never let us get close to. He told us on multiple occasions how much force was being applied and what it would do to anyone it hit. Needless to say, scariest thing in the shop!
@@TheAdatto I hope they were able to reattach and give you thumb capability. In some cases, they will amputate the index finger to replace the thumb. I have had one amputation(index finger) and many surgeries. This was not caused by a band saw, but I can understand damage, especially to hands.
Nowadays there are even scarier things out there, like electric brakes, i saw people who didn't know how they work and started to change the pads.... And then someone opened the door and the pistons where launched out, let's say they are like bullet's if one of those hit you, you have bo chance to survive.
You know as someone making a video specifically with the spring compression tool in mind, you should’ve also shown the frames where you tightened the top nut before the tool removal. That’s an incredibly important step and would go a long way to show the importance of completing all steps as they were undone on the older strut, prior to the tool removal.
@@seansnyder2855 He didn't withhold the step though. He said to bottom it out. He just didn't show himself doing it. He should have but he didn't withhold it either.
Back in the early 90's I used to work at a brake and muffler shop. And I was warned about spring compressors like that and how dangerous they are. At the shop we had a spring press that was specifically set up for struts so it was very safe to use. Great video!!!
A guy I knew had a spring let go with one of these setups - it hit his forehead, took a skullcap-shaped portion of his head off. It was held on by a flap of scalp, and flipped to the back of his head. I didn't see the accident, but his workmate who drove him to the hospital had nightmares about it. He could see his mates brain. His mate was holding the portion of his skull forward over the blasted hole in the top of his head for the whole drive. I also got told another story of a young apprentice who accidentally bumped a spring-compressed spring sitting on the bench. The spring hit him in the eye socket and blasted half his head off. He died before the ambulance arrived. The funeral was attended by a lot of people I went to school with. These things are really, really dangerous, and need to be treated with a great deal of respect.
I have never felt so stressed out by a single video in my life. Even when everything is done right, compressed springs are absolutely no joke. Glad you made it through such a harrowing task!
It doesn't make them any less dangerous. One of my previous jobs had a whole class on why spring compressors are dangerous and how to use them properly, or not at all.@@jrock5995
heh i have used alot of these what i used didnt even have the safety pin things that these have i was 15 when i used em first time its not really that bad if you know what ur doing
Anyone else up here in the rust belt enjoy a nice chuckle when folks with beautiful, rust-free vehicles like this talk about things being hard to remove? I love it here, and I even love our beautiful winters. That said, if I could change just one thing . . . Anyway, great video! I enjoyed the watch.
Wow, I've never used an impact wrench. I always do 6 cranks on the socket wrench and then move to the other side to do 6 cranks. Yes, it's a slow process, but I feel safe doing it this way and have never had a problem in the last 30 years.
I used impact wrench before but, not after tools smacked together (because of impacts one slide to second tool) so I ended up with both tools on one side of spring pressed and other side not pressed at all (almost sh*t myself when it happened) Never used impact on that after that I will rather take my time and live. :) Be carefull guys!
A few weeks ago I completed the task of replacing all four struts on my 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix, and it wasn't so bad. While I'm not a mechanic by trade, I took the time to read and watch a few tutorials, which gave me the confidence and knowledge I needed. I meticulously worked on each side, taking the time to turn and adjust while keeping the strut securely locked in a vice. Though it was time-consuming, I made sure to properly compress and decompress the springs, ensuring a safe and successful installation. The job took me two days in total, with the rear struts being slightly more challenging due to limited space in the trunk. Nevertheless, I persevered and got the job done. Considering the money I saved by doing it myself, I feel incredibly accomplished. Firestone had quoted a substantial amount for the same task, but with a little DIY spirit and some investment in tools, I managed to complete it on my own. Overall, this experience has boosted my confidence, and I would definitely consider tackling similar projects in the future. I had also replaced the tie-rods and rear sway assembly since it had rusted and broke. I took the car back to Firestone for an alignment and they could only do the front because the rear is too badly seized. They quoted me $500 to replace the trailing arms and only did the front for $122. WTF? I found the parts online for $28 and will just replace them out myself, and then take it to a different Firestone location to align the rear, and hopefully get them to do it for free. It's amusing that a kid at the auto parts store I rented the tool from dubbed me a "certified RUclips Specialist." Well, I'll wear that badge with pride! This whole experience has not only boosted my confidence but also ignited a passion for tackling more projects in the future. It's empowering to be able to handle car maintenance on my own terms.
When I was a mechanic we used to send them out to a suspension repairer they had made up a safety cage type setup with hydraulic rams to compress the springs.They were cheap to get done and quick with pickup and delivery with no risk of injury
We have a commercial type spring compressor that is mounted to a beam in the wall. I caution anyone using it to treat the operation like a loaded gun. Other nearby shops bring their strut assemblies to us to have the shocks changed. It takes only minutes, and we do it as a courtesy.
Pointer from someone who has used these spring compressors too many times: Rent TWO sets. Or own one and rent the second when needed, for a total of FOUR little compressor dealios. And then use THREE of the compressor dealios separated by 120deg around the strut/spring assembly. This way, you can use the impact wrench safely. IF YOU ONLY HAVE TWO OF THE COMPRESSOR DEALIOS (one set) DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH.
@@mikew6786 Mike. Have you ever seen one break? I saw one and the velocity of which it parted would have killed anyone in it's path. Luckily it hit a shelf and knocked everything out on the floor. Always made sure I was out of harms way.
@@jameswahnee6445 I know how dangerous they are. With the shitty metal coming out of China, I think its safer and wiser to have a shop do it unless you have a wall mounted spring compressor. Cheap threaded steel is a death wish.
This reminds me of when I was a mechanic for a electric construction company. We had to work on all kinds of things. Being relatively green in the professional world, I was warned about the braking components on big trucks. They have compressed spring in a housing to lock up if air pressure goes too low. Taking it apart is also very dangerous and I'm glad I never had to mess with them.
Hey John, I'm a heavy duty diesel mechanic and I've done these brake chambers daily! They are dangerous, but safer than these coil overs because there is a safety mechanism called a caging bolt that you insert into the high side port of the chamber. They are designed from factory to take that specific caging bolt to allow safe maintenance!!
I can 100% confirm that if the spring falls over with the clamps you need to take cover immediately! When it happened to me ,one clamp flew past me and embedded itself in the side of the shed 8 feet away! always been extra careful since that haha..
Oh yeah.. you really want to be in a largish area, as ricochet is not your friend if something goes wrong with a coil spring using these. I heard one story of it taking out a large piece of concrete, so not at all surprised that it got embedded in the wall in your case, better the wall than your head though!
falls over? so you stood the spring on end? i would never advise that as the spring ends are not exactly square across. there is an angle to them. that is why the platforms are angled.
45 years ago or so my buddy was changing the springs on my Monte Carlo. Top notch mechanic. He told how scared he was to do that job. Definitely the widow maker!!! Nice job. The ad thing is you made it look doable in the home garage!
I've used this tool many times. *I've never had a problem.* Saves $$. Using an impact definitely speeds things up. As a side note, torque needs checked with the wheel hub compressed.... being on the ground, or with a floor jack. Final tightening on all suspension components should be done under compression.
I believe this is the ONLY video that shows how to take apart and reinstall front struts on this platform. All others use ready strut assemblies. Thank You
Like most other automotive repairs, it's recommended to have a great level of common sense going into it and to take a great deal of care as to make sure everything that you do is as thorough as possible and aims to replicate OEM standards as closely as possible. These tools are very dangerous in the wrong hands, just as much as a car can be dangerous depending on it's driver.
@@YTiswoke only if you have a defective one. i have used them as well as those with the twin fingers and at no time was i scared to use them. the two fingers ones can be dangerous if you are not careful because there is no safety pin and i have had them slide up on the spring before. these are pretty simple to use if you do it right and it is nothing to fear when handled correctly. by putting out an alarming video saying they are super dangerous even when using caution is doing your viewers a disservice.
On most cars I've worked on, you only have to tighten the compressors by a very few turns. The spring is already somewhat compressed by the assembly anyway. Fit the two compressors, tighten them just a little, then loosen the top nut. Once that nut is within 3 or 4 turns of coming off, it should be hand-tight, clearly showing that the spring is now held by the compressors and not the strut assembly. If necessary, tighten the compressors a few more turns until the top nut is only hand-tight, then remove the top nut. Job done with minimal risk of explosions and also minimal time wasted tightening the compressors.
That seems fairly accurate to me, though I have never done this. Most things I've learned regarding mechanical tension is that a little goes a long way.
I wonder what the factory / dealer tool looks like. My guess is it will grab the the top of the strut bearing and lower spring support. That way you don`t have to compress the spring, just let off the tension when the top nut is off. Also, I see the cast parts of the tensioners used in the video have hammer marks... I would scrap them immediately!!
@@AT-wl9yq So you say official dealer mechanics work with aftermarket tools for this job...? Also, always IS compressed. There is no need to compress it more. You want to hold it in position untill the top nut is off ,then release tension. Anyways, that`s how I do it with the factory tool for my bmw.
I have used this tool many times with no issue. However, I highly recommend you know what you are doing and take it slow and steady. I also found it best to break-loose the top strut nut before removing it from the vehicle for they do not come off as easy as in the video.
yeah missed a step prior to load removal......turn the top strut nut enough to break torque, I saw 1 vid say turn 1/4 in before the mounting nuts at the top are removed.
But, for muppets reading, just barely crack loose the top nut but do NOT, do NOT remove the top nut until the spring tension is controlled by the compressors or it will fire the nut and top plate across the room via your face!
I have only used this 1 time . Ended up putting Worm style hose clamps on each side of the clamp where it was on the spring to prevent it from slipping . It worked . Since then I just replace the whole assembly .
5:14 I find this unreasonably hilarious. Just gets finished telling us how dangerous this thing is, and then he hits us with a "Now, Idk if this is ok or not, but I want things to go faster, so-"
My little tip when using a Spring Compressor, is to clean and lubricate the screw threads extremely well, before use. You do not want those threads to fail - whilst under the enormous compression forces, or this could cost you your life.
@@zzoinks I don't recall finding that to be a risk. The tension removes the chance of the nut loosening, and the lubrication makes it vastly smoother to turn and with less effort.
@@tomledoux thank you for the explanation! I ultimately decided I'll avoid doing the spring compression after reading some scary stories. I felt like it would be better for an experienced mechanic with better tools to do it than me, and I am super new to DIY car repair. I'll try to find a good complete strut
Some things: 1.) Struts are not a "damper with a spring around it", that's more appropriately called a "Coil Over" (As in Coil Spring Over Shock). A Strut is simply a damper which is an integral part of the suspension's motion. IE: If you can remove the damper and it causes the wheel to flop around uncontrollably, that's a strut. If you can remove it and it DOESN'T impact the tire geometry at all, that's a shock. They perform the same function. 2.) I've used these devices multiple times and never been injured using them. You'd have to be pretty daft to get injured with them. Make sure the safety pins engage, make sure to not over compress the spring. 3.) The forces in typical automotive springs range from about 80lbs/in to 220lbs/in in compression. Doesn't take much compression to build up to some CRAZY forces! Be safe!
I taught myself how to work on cars over the last 8 years and I like your attitude about it. I think for people who are mechanically inclined, learning about cars is very doable, but you have to have a sense of things. For people who have never worked on anything cars are generally not a good starting point.
This was helpful to me and I'm an amateur blacksmith. Coil springs make good stock and knowing how to strip them SAFELY is invaluable. Thanks a bunch mate!
Lol! Living in a cold climate where they they turn our roads into something that resembles the salt flats during our winter, if the underside of my vehicle looked anywhere as clean as yours, I would never even need to buy a can of penetrating oil. Here we often need to use torches to free up bolts not just a cute little squirt of oil.
The only thing that's worse to work on is dedicated plow trucks. The idiots that own them park them after the last snow, and that salt sits on them all summer. Between the dew, fog, and heat the is usually more rust than truck after two years. Even heavy frames get eaten completely through!
Down here in the south you can get cars easily past 200k with a clean undercarriage. I've had to work on a few vehicles from up north and that was the most aggravating thing ever.
maybe you can help me with my issue, I recently bought a 2007 Lincoln Town Car and I've noticed the front end of the car I hear some squeaky noise, my first guess was the front struts because even when I open/close the front doors you can hear it too, any idea what it can be?
@@johnnycash2860 I had something similar with my 98 explorer, I sprayed the heck out of them with some lube, it helped for a little while but the squeak always came back, the bushings were just old and dry, I never did replace them because I traded it in for a newer car
Used mine so many times without issue. If you follow a couple logical safety steps, no one should ever get hurt. FYI, I use anti seize on mine. Helps the tool live a long happy life.
I also agree with the dire warnings about spring compressors. I have used them several times, but my precaution is to get some fencing wire, and attach the spring, both parts of the compressor, to a fixed object so if they explode apart, they cannot touch me. You could use light chain also.
I draped some heavy fabric/cloth/canvas over the bulk of it. I've seen people drape blankets over winch cable when 4x4ing because if it snaps under load apparently that's a good way to kill the momentum of anything that wants to go flying.
In over 15 years of working on car professionally, I've not once heard a spring compressor referred to as a "widow maker". In fact, most every tech I've ever worked with would consider it a "money maker" more than anything else because struts are EASY money. Like ANY tool, there is a right way and a wrong way to use a spring compressor. No, using it the right way does not mitigate the risk 100%, but being a good safe driver doesn't mitigate 100% of your risk of being in a car accident either. Yes, a compressed car spring is a dangerous thing, but that doesn't mean it has to be unsafe... the vast majority of the danger can be mitigated if done properly. For all those saying that those "quick struts" aka "preloaded struts" are the answer... first of all, both the struts and the springs in those are almost always bottom tier. I've seen a number of them suffer from broken springs or a strut blowout within the first year of use and if that doesn't happen, they are worn out and need replaced again within 2-3 years. There is a reason they cost less than buying the individual components and if you plan on keeping the car long term, they'll actually end up costing you more because they wear out so quickly. I would never recommend using those. Second, when "quick struts" are used, it is imperative that the old assembly NOT be thrown into the garbage without disassembly. Doing so presents a HUGE risk to unknowing trash collectors and the people at the landfill. The danger factor of a compressed spring is much higher if you don't even know the spring is there AND you're twisting it every which way with the compactor in your garbage truck. For safety sake, the springs MUST be decompressed prior to disposal.
Do you haul trash for a living? I never thought about the danger an old strut assembly. I would not buy a "quick strut." I have seen nothing but problems.
Don't throw any metal in the trash. There's always someone with a truck looking for scrap metal. Just make a pile at the edge of your yard with 'free scrap' sign.
LOL 😂 I brought some old struts, springs, brake rotors and other metal scrap to a local recycler and got $12 in cash which I used immediately to buy chicken tamales from a lady who was about 6 steps away from the cashier. The circular economy
@@JesusPerez-iv2ej kind of like having a beer store next to the can redemption place. You can reinvest all the can money from drinking beer straight back into more beer!
When I did alignments, I had the pleasure of watching a strut spring fly out of the wall mounted air actuated spring compressor. All safety precautions were used, because I always was afraid of that thing. I've never used a manual spring compressor since leaving the shop, I now buy the strut assemblies whole.
I worked for years at a shop that had a Snap on pneumatic coil spring compressor that was not a wall mount type. For years, NEVER had a problem ... then one day I was working at a deep crouch, I had just slipped the strut out of the spring and the spring came out of the compressor, bounced off the floor and hit me in the left knee, just under the knee cap. It hurt so bad, I couldn't even draw a breath to scream. All I could do was roll on the floor and hold my knee. Went to the hospital, I was lucky it hit the floor first and slowed down. Nothing broken, but it swelled up like a basketball.
@@oddshot60 Imagine if that hadn't bounced, and went into your eye. I see a lot of old-timers here how they've been using the same set for 25, 30, 40 years and "never had any issues." Well good for them but many others are not so lucky, it only takes once. Nothing shameful about taking preventative measures, replacing tools BEFORE they start looking worn out, redundancies, fail-safes, etc. Familiarity leads to complacency. Complacency leads to injuries or worse fatalities.
@@phxcppdvlazi The incident was more than 35 years ago, I doubt the machine was 10 years old. Wall mounts were way in the future. In those days there were NO safety devices on the machines. We were all very scared of what could happen. The machine and spring was between my knees and aimed at my crotch. I was REAL lucky it took the bounce it did.
I've used these on occasion, always nervous until they're safely disengaged, but with proper precautions they're the right tool for the job. There are so many good suggestions in the comments in addition to this good tutorial. I've found that buying these already assembled saved a lot of time and appreciates the need to compress any springs. The time saved and the safety trade-off makes it worth it for me at this time. Thank you for the good video.
I do Overhead Doors with some extremely dangerous springs and understand the tension they're under. It's all about respecting the dangers things like that pose. Patience is key. 👍🏽✌🏽
Those, and spring loaded marine hatches [which probably have 3x the spring rate, but less travel] make me nervous. If you don't have the right tools [and like your face the way it is], don't even think of adjustment.
I used to use those same type of spring compressors, but after a while, it was quicker and definitely safer to buy a floor type press for springs, bushings, and ball joints.
Safer to compress at an angle, specifically perpendicular to the slope of the spring. More contact surface area than T-ing up the edges of the compressor . Used this tool yesterday, satisfying to use
I agree. Less contact area if parallel. Compressing new springs i do it over a steel pipe held in a vice. I use a chain vicegrip to hold the spring to the pipe.
A good set of spring compressors have a beveled paw. They are designed to be parallel to the strut. Using cheap ones that don't have beveled paws is extremely dangerous.
I was putting Bilsteins on the front of my '05 Titan about three months back. I started with a pair of compressors I got at that "Freight" place. They bent up like spaghetti and the nuts froze. I had to go get some loaners from a car parts shop just to get the old compressors off and complete the job.
I think you did a good job detailing the process and making safety a factor. I have 2 kinds of spring compressors I use. One set is like what you used and another is what's called a Clamshell Spring Compressor. The clamshell is the way to go, much safer and a lot easier. Now days, the other one sits in my tools box in case I ever need a backup.
I have the clamshell compressor and can verify it is much safer as more of the spring is grabbed on the top and bottom. And I used it for short cut BMW springs which are harder to compress.
I used a coil compressor to convert the rear air shocks on my Lincoln Towncar. I didn't find it particularly difficult or dangerous. I knew the coils hold enormous energy when compressed and treated them with respect.
I've done this myself a few times. It's really no big deal as long as the compressors are installed properly and not cinched down too tightly. You just want them tight enough to take the tension off the end bolt. Back when I worked at a shop, we used to just take struts and put them against a curb, or something firm. And then with a foot on the end, we zipped the top bolt off with an impact gun, the spring would shoot the strut across the shop floor. It usually went about 5-10 feet. It's not that bad. I wouldn't want any body parts in the line of fire.
@@supersabrosinho . Some idiot in the comments recommended tying it down to a chain wrapped around a tree to prevent it from flying across the street. LOL
Did the same last night to remove the factory springs and install lowered springs. The spring stayed under my foot, the strut didn’t make it 5 feet across the floor. It’s really not a big deal
After putting about 200,000 miles on my 96 Impala SS, I decided to replace the ball joints and bushings in the front end. That meant renting a spring compressor to get the upper and lower A-Frames out on both sides. In hind sight, I should not have done it. In any case, I proceeded. Well, at one point I compressed the spring and pulled it out of the car. I should NOT have stood the spring up while it's compressed. At some point it fell over and the compression clamps let go. All of that stored energy released at the same time. It made one hell of a bang and sparks flew as the spring bounced off the concrete. No harm was done to the tool, the spring or the floor. Can't say the same for my nerves. Next time I'll leave it up to an expert.
Well-presented info. Good safe presentation. However, just buy loaded struts with the spring already installed. Coil springs will break, usually at the ends.
The first time i used one of those i set the spring compressed on the workbench. my brother came up knocking it off the bench and it imbibed itself into the roof when the compressors fell off.
I have used one exactly two times. Couldn't fit a needle in my bung. I now change the whole strut. Less work, and you get a new spring, shock and mount/bearing. Worth a little more to have all new parts instead of changing piecemeal. Other job I just did was replace a control arm, because the balljoint was riveted in, and just the first rivet was a pain. It always looks so easy in the videos! Call it being lazy, or maybe just getting wiser! - edit after watching most of the video: The tool manufacturers usually don't like impacts being used. Also, you know you've compressed the spring enough when the top mount/bearing turns easily. Loosen the top nut, like you did, and make sure the spring is loose between the bottom mount on the shock and the top bearing/mount. ONLY THEN is it safe to remove the top nut completely off. Good video btw.
It's a good idea to mark up the position of the spring and it's relation to the top plate as not all springs sit in the centre of the strut and can rub on the body if not positioned correctly.
I've found that undoing the top strut nut a half turn while car's weight is on it makes the job a lot quicker. And always respect the energy in the spring.
@@catslivesmatter1268 i bought the replacement strut assemblies for my chevy truck and the thing seems to ride worse with these new struts... lol ..must be from china..
When I was young, I borrowed a set of those strut compressors… the guy at the gas station pointed to the hole in the ceiling like 14 feet above… that was made by it.. good lesson.. also about that time I got a job at the other shop in town, and as they were showing me how to use the old tire machine…. Guess what, he points to the hole in the even higher ceiling where that center bar bead thing left a hole… keep a good hold of it ray ray said…
In Australia, we just use fencing wire, compress the strut whilst still mounted to the car and wrap three lengths of wire spaced evenly around the spring. Then you release the Jack, remove the strut and disassemble it as the spring is already to taken out. To refit, simply reassemble, fit to car, use the Jack to take up the slack and cut the wire, job done!
That is because you Australia Fellers are a touch crazier than the rest of the modern world! It’s goes with the territory considering the amount of critters that can seriously ruin ones day in the land of OZ… However, great idea when one doesn’t have access to the correct tool and needs to get it done! Many may scoff at the idea of using tie wire, bailing wire, or as you called it fence wire not realizing just how strong and durable it can be if Afroengineered correctly!
For anyone thinking of doing this at their house and changing their springs or struts, whether they're old and worn out or you want to lower your car or something, don't be afraid of these things. Just use them correctly and you will be fine. Make sure out of the gate that the compressor is lubricated and the threads look good. Always have the strut and spring assembly facing away from you when you are compressing the spring. That way if you do something wrong at least the spring shoots away from you instead of hitting you. Always compress evenly on each side like shown in the video. Also don't compress further than you need to, just until you can freely spin the spring a little, then you can remove the top components. Another big tip would be always replace the nylon lock nut that goes on top of the strut mount, just find one that is the same size with the same thread pitch. I had a nut once where the threads were stripped slightly and when I went to tighten the nut back down it grabbed for a little ways and then eventually couldn't hold on anymore and the spring shot clean off of the strut. Also if you're going to do this and replace your struts I always advise against pre-assembled all-in-one products. Obviously these are way easier to install but generally speaking the quality is not consistently good; these products are made literally everyone, many companies do not have standardized quality control and many just use cheap materials, every generic company these days makes an all-in-one assembly so it's very hard to know what is trash and what isn't. If you want something that isn't a piece of trash that you're going to have to end up replacing soon after you install it, I would either try and find OEM struts or go with something like Bilstein, Tokico or even Koni. Bilstein are generally your best all-round option for a good mix of performance and comfortability. Strut assemblies are a crap shoot unless you can get an OEM one. Another good practice is to make sure if you're doing this on an older vehicle with worn out struts that you go ahead and replace any and all rubber components as well; this includes the upper mount, coil spring insulator, dust boot, bump stop and any rubber bushings. I'm not disparaging shops, there's plenty of things you'll want to take your car to a shop for if you're not confident fixing it. But the more you learn, the easier it's going to be for you to maintain your vehicle and keep it running smoothly, and the less you're going to be intimidated to tackle. It's hard to find an honest mechanic these days (or an affordable one), and with new cars being practically unavailable and used cars being at all time high prices, you're going to want to be able to make your car last as long as possible. Don't be afraid to fix things yourself, just make sure you do a lot of research before hand, so you know safe working practices and probably most importantly, how to take it apart and put it back together correctly.
Thanks for writing this. I needed this encouragement. The advice to keep away from the spring longitudinal axis is pure gold. If, in addition to that advice, you put the spring on a leash (chain it to a tree for example), it's physically [almost] impossible for the spring to hit you.
@@eggnoc I went to a dealership for an oil change (coupon) and they told me they inspected my car. Said my brake pads were worn, and also needed new rotors. I told them to show me, cause I just replaced them a few days ago. They came back and said the tech made a mistake. Two days later I noticed a little fluid on the driveway. I jacked up the vehicle and found a powersteering line connector was slightly loose. I tightened it back down. No problem since. Never went back there again. I do all my own oil and filter changes, and wrenching on my vehicles. No more fluid leaks.
@@SirGolfalot- Yes, it is because of that kind of stuff I'm doing at least oil/filter job now too. Next step is whole suspension job which is why I was watching this (already ordered my spring compressor).
I tried to go OEM for a Toyota I’m working on for my son. Had the money but there were no parts. Tried several parts stores and online. Had to reluctantly settle on an after market set.
Did this when I was 18 or 19 in my parents driveway when I was big into car modding. I didn't think it was that big of a deal. It did slip once, I just let it go and it spun around really fast to relieve the pressure. Good solution to slipping is put a little padding where the metal compressor touches the metal spring with either a small face towel or some shop towels... it increases the friction and improves the grip of the compressor touching the spring. Garage door springs made me a little more nervous when I replaced those myself IMO.
Years ago me and my dad used one of these to change the front shocks on my mom’s Toyota Land Cruiser. We bought the most heavy duty spring compressor kit that auto parts store offered. Unfortunately, one of the clamps on the spring compressor shattered while compressing the spring and a large chunk of the beak shot upwards with so much force that it embedded itself into the wooden ceiling. Turned out the beaks of the clamps were made of cast iron and there was a small air pocket where it shattered. I’m still thankful neither of us had our head positioned above the clamps when it happened.
@@troyb3659 All the anyone's you have seen use an impact.....have not read the directions and my suggestion to you is......just because you see someone or lots of someone's doing something does not mean it is ok. You need to learn how to think for yourself.
@@TheGregWallace damn bro, you mad or what? 3 post to answer my 1. Now that I have your attention....I find d it hilarious that you read the instructions. Only 2% of the people that use this have read the directions. They are harmless. Hit it with an impact and be done with it. Well first you would have to go buy a compressor and impact. Yoir man card has been revoked.
1) Put your work on a bench where it's easy to work on and secure it. 2) Treat that spring like a loaded gun. Keep all your body parts away from the ends. There is a lot of energy there. 3) Keep the tension on your compressor tool balanced (just like you did in the video. Keep them in balance.
I've used those on my Silverado springs when upgrading to eibach springs a while back...this is the civilian equivalent of extracting a 40mm round out of a MK19 in the military. Similar pucker factor just not as extreme as handling an explosive round.
When ever possible buy the complete strut assemblies. Unbolt the old and bolt in the new. These springs are no joke and are extremely dangerous. All it takes is one clamp to be bumped and its off like a rocket. Its always best to replace all components with the strut. That is strut mount, coil spring, strut boot, and strut. If you buy all these components individually it costs more. Complete struts come together and can be done in 30mins time. Plus makes it much safer and less expensive. I've done the completes on a 01 bonneville.
Yes, oftentimes the quality of the loaded struts are only mediocre. I'd rather buy known quality individual components and take my chances with the tools, lol.
my thoughts exactly. "im not sure if this is okay" - its not. the sudden pinging shock from that impact could easily fracture the screw if its becoming fatigued.
The second I saw him us an impact gun, I stopped an came to the comments, Dangerous video people , don't ever use an impact on spring compression tool. EVER!!!! if you must use a power/air tool use the ratchet but only after u started with a hand ratchet.
@@butstough Unfortunately, he may have set it up for the next guy to experience a catastrophic failure of the screw by creating hair-line fractures by impacting it.
agreed..Never use the air tool.. i use 2 ratchets 3/8 drive with a socket on each side, equally tightening left and right sides till its compressed..shock flat on floor and facing Away from me..nut Slightly Preloosened on strut but still On the threads , done when its On the car....no real issues except the damn autozone compressors hang not cleanly seated on the springs...no matter which way they were oriented
Armchair athlete here, but it looks pretty straightforward as long as you follow the directions? Seems like people who error with this tool are in a rush and don’t follow safety procedure, or don’t compress the spring evenly.
Yep, I’d rather pay someone for the garage door springs. Done this type of job for a few cars already and never had an issue. Of course you just have to be careful
@@milehighboost5521 I've done these years ago. Out of necessity. Today not so much. It's an expensive fix. At any garage tho. But CONPLETO struts got a bad bad name too
Garage springs are not hard to do. Just need two people and a couple of good 1/2 inch metal rods. Not difficult at all. Just have to go slow and like most work, watch what your doing.
I bought a foreclosed house and the garage smelled really bad ..like rotten potatoes. As I’m standing there pressure washing the floor, one of the door springs broke, took out the safety cable with it and missed my face by maybe 10 inches.. it put a dent in the door! They were cooking something in that garage, made everything rust!
Done it, not difficult unless you don’t use right tools or procedures. You did well, same as me. Any spring is inherently dangerous. Agree that buying a loaded strut is the smart thing to do if in doubt. PS This is nothing compared to a garage door spring, now that’s dangerous! Good video.
People don't know how many people are killed and injured by garage doors every year. Those gizmos are nothing to mess with if you don't know a good bit about them. Knowing a little or nothing about them can get you hurt or killed
Because every mechanic in the world uses impacts on them. Don't let some kid making minimum wage scare you with some term he made up....widow maker. That kid thinks his tooth brush is a widow maker.
@@troyb3659 10 years experience as mechanic from dealership to mining equipment, THIS IS A DANGEROUS JOB. Use common sense, I often use an impact to the first point of tension then wind using hand tools.
@@anthonyabela2328 okay, so they are dangerous. Im saying using impacts on them does not make them anymore dangerous. Yes, using an impact will wear and round the heads. By the time you round your heads, you should probably be replacing them anyways. Ive never heard of them being called "the widow maker" and neither have you....it just doesnt fit the bill.
I'm 36, I have this same tool and I've owned it for a few years but I've rented it since I was like 21 and I've never had any issues with it, mainly because I'm not stupid.
This definitely looks like a job that I would be happy to pay someone to do. I especially appreciate the video because I now understand the work and the risk involved and it will make parting with my pennies at the garage much more palatable
Me too, it is one of those things best left to a mechanic. I don't have a lift so I would be relying on a floor jack. That is not such a big deal though. I would rather leave the spring compression to a mechanic just because it can be very dangerous.
I've changed my struts before and need to change them again. I rented these compressors before but stopped short of completing the job because I had them so cranked down yet the spring still wouldn't come loose from the assembly and that scared the purple twinkies out of me, I took the compressors off. So what I wound up doing, I'm doing again going and take the entire assembly's along with the new struts to a mechanic for them to swap out. Should be less than $50. It was $25 last time but I doubt I'll get off that inexpensively this time but still better than an accident.
about $1000 now. would be my guess. Including parts, alignment, etc. I paid $700 10 years ago. Of course, kind of rip-off from my end, but I did not have to messed with those coil springs and renting the tools.
@@chrisperrien7055 yeah that's about how much it would be for the complete job parts included. In my case, I'm ordering the parts from Rock Auto then taking my struts off my truck myself and taking the new parts along with the old struts assembly to a shop for them to swap the new parts onto my existing coils. Then I'll install the newly assembled parts back onto my truck myself. I ordered KYB struts, coil mount and polyurethane insulators so between those parts and the shop work to basically compress the springs for me disassemble//reassemble, the whole thing will cost me about $220 - $250.
Also you're way better off using an impact to tighten these. What you're worried about is making them slip. But you're gonna turn a ratchet with a lot of force in the direction that might cause them to slip. The impact does a much better job of turning the screw without putting sideways force on the clamp.
Loved your video. Just "survived" my rookie experience. Rear struts were a breeze, the front ones required several attempts to get everything right. Thanks for the tips!
Fine. That was anticlimactic. Back to RUclips to watch people maiming themselves with spring compressor tools....😜 Glad you're still 10/10/1 and 2 eyes after that job!
I've used these things in my garage changing out springs and struts in my old outback. They're dangerous for sure, but as long as you work safely (keeping the ends away from your face or other people) things will eventually get there. I 100% agree that it's worth just taking them out and to a shop because those spring compressors are just awful to use in general.
First time I used these, was doing rear springs on my S5 and if you’ve ever done that job on a B8 platform Audi, you know how tight it is in there. Had no issue, didn’t even think about dying and I had that at a pretty good angle too lol
I’ve made a lot of money using those. I support the strut in a vice, keep the threaded rods lubricated and use my impact wrench a little on each side. I have a tremendous amount of respect for a compressed coil spring. Nowadays, I use the wall mounted spring compressor more often, mostly because it’s close to my work area.
To make it easier to compress and safer, attach the spring compressors on less coils of the spring. 2 full coils in-between is plenty. Thus you are only compressing 4 coils together instead of the 7+ which means less built up energy if they were to slip off, and less wrenching down to get similar compression. Working without a lift, this method can help of strut removal as well to have more room pulling the strut off the car with spring compressors already attached. If you cannot get the vehicle far enough off ground for the control arm to drop, the uncompressed strut assembly is impossible to remove. After compressing the spring still attached to strut assembly, remove top nuts, then bottom strut bolts. Then strut shocks can be pushed back in by hand to shorten enough for clearance to remove from vehicle, as you will no longer have the spring force pushing back the shock which... Shock absorbers force is a lot less than you'd expect lol. I use 3 compressors, and a safety cable tied just incase something slips when removing the strut this way. Smashed fingers, and a busted face will be avoided! Less coils compressed and the spring will act more like a punching force if it slips, and not go crazy flying as it will when full spring is compressed.
Video titled "Heres why you should never mess with a Spring Compressor" but never actually shows us why we should never mess with a spring compressor, just does everything right. Wild. If anything, this video should be titled "Why This Spring Compressor is so Safe and easy, even a Non-Professional can use it!"
Use 2 sets, use 3 compressors at a time, use the fourth if you need to reposition. As long as the pin is in place you will be fine. Spring can't go anywhere if the spring is locked in. I've been using them for years.
One thing I would add as for safety. Always work perpendicular to the spring. If something goes wrong, it won´t shoot tools or strut parts or itself at you as easily.
I was particularly stupid when changing a spring on my son's car a few years ago. Long story short, I over-compressed the spring. It came off the compressors and hit me full force in the face around my left eye!!!! It didn't knock me out or anything but I initially suffered tunnel vision. Eventually that cleared but I will forever have bubbles floating round inside my eye which affects vision and will never go away. If you're using these things be very careful. Maybe worth using ratchet straps with them as an extra precaution.
Yeah, if you look at the lack of thickness of material on the claws for the spring compressor, you'll understand why it is called the "widowmaker." Most spring compressors in shops are wall-mounted with a blast shield in case it goes wrong.
its called the widowmaker because of the tools tendancy to slip off of a spring during compression / decompression of a spring, usually because impact tools are used, not very often these break, the thickness is pleanty on the tool. Most shop compressors are bolted to the floor and have a small cage (which is more just a thick wire, like a fence) and a chain for protection, if the chain is even still attached, not a blast shield and will likely not protect a mechanic, just slows the spring so its hopefully not as lethal. idk where youve seen one with a blast shield but ive not seen one even in main dealer workshops where they could afford such tools.
I've never had an issue with those spring compressors. I've used them on a lot of jobs. One was helping a friend switch out to lowering springs cause the previous owner cut the springs. That was a bit sketchy taking apart
Agree with everything, adding that I never go steel to steel, I always put a wrap of medium Emery cloth around the contact points, never had one slip since, and it protects the coating on the spring from damage ! It's actually much more nerve stretching compressing a new spring from its fully relaxed state.
@@philipsquire9056 Take great care Phil, move slowly carefully and deliberately, keep everything square ! I once broke a little finger doing this job. There is enormous energy stored in a compressed suspension spring.
@@philipsquire9056 Very pleased to hear it, being independent and doing jobs for yourself, not to mention the money saved makes it all very satisfying. Bet it was a French car, front or rear spring ?
I’m a DIYer and as I commented/replied below to someone: I did this today for the front struts on a bmw 335xi. Got OEM struts. Used old springs. I was careful, I studied/researched my head off. It went well and now I feel like I climbed a mountain that was unclimbable. Such a good feeling. Now I’m gna do this on my car. Getting struts instead of quick strut assembly is MUCH less expensive. Just it’s not THAT death defying. Just don’t rush. Be logical. If I can do it you can. (SMA) lol harbor freight spring compressor was 30$. Shazam.
This reminds me of the time I did drum brakes on my jeep. It had small springs holding the drum in place. I moved it a little too much trying to compress one and that sob launched. It probably flew 1000 yards and I never saw it again. I was very glad it didn't hit me. I could imagine the danger of these springs being 100 times larger.
best thing to do when replacing struts is to just replace them as an assembly if available. If the strut is worn out then the spring has probably lost some tension and isn't keeping vehicle at the correct ride height and should be replaced. Also on front struts the top bearing is most likely worn too. Assemblies just make the job so much easier.
Just dealt with this. 18 shops most with a machine to do this in the bqck dont want to mess with the springs anymore. I said fine give me the machine since your not using it anymore. Yes i was serious. But no i didnt get 1. I have whats in the video for $35. Worked great. And did 4 more sets of struts before quitting. Thanks for the video.
![Eminem - Fuel (feat. JID) [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t5H_CewqpKA/mqdefault.jpg)
Two things I fear. Roaches and compressed coil springs.
Oh... I see you haven't met my ex-wife yet
The two things God let the devil design.... any form of cir-clips and McPherson struts. Both are designed to mame or injure. But mostly to be lost in the abyss of space.
add garage door springs to that list
@Sam Macaw name calling, how Christian of you.
@Sam Macaw There is no God.
Just saw this video. I've worked in the industry for over 20 years and used these spring compressors so many times I can't count. The biggest mistakes people make using these compressors are 1. Not using lube on the bolts to extend the life of the threads and reducing heat damage and stripping on the threads, 2. Impacting or wrenching them waaaayyy too far putting undue tension on the cast "ends" and cracking them, just enough to take the tension off the top mount is plenty, and 3. Not inspecting a loaner tool before using it in case the last idiots who rented them didn't to the first 2. Keep up the good work.
Great info. I'm no pro but was taught by a very knowledgeable and skilled DIY mechanic. He taught me everything you just said. I've done quite a few of these jobs and it can be nerve wracking for sure but with these 3 tips and good overall safety practices, it can be done easily and safely.
Great advice. I'm a professional mechanic who has to plan for avoiding things that scare me more than compressed coil springs [like arc blast] - I'm in automation, at least for the next 2 weeks before I become a road warrior and do building and equipment maintenance all over. Potential energy is something people don't think enough about. You're essentially creating a mechanical "battery" with the compressors. As long as everything holds up, you don't have to deal with the "shock" and I've seen someone impact the strut nut off the top and rocket a strut assembly into their garage floor taking a big chunk and leaving a crack and coming to rest after making a hole in the wall. Missed their foot by inches on the way down and their body by less than a foot.
Never ever ever cheap out on jackstands, ramps, coil spring compressors, or any other equipment that your life depends on. Keep them from rust, heat, mechanical damage, etc and inspect them before and after every use. Discard/warranty any item that's damaged. Never attempt to repair damaged potential energy storage equipment.
You are correct about inspection as you could clearly see some "Dings" on them from someone blasting a ball pein off of them
@DO NOT BE DECEIVED: THE WICKED WONT ENTER HEAVEN. "Slaves, submit yourselves to your masters with all respect, not only to the good and gentle but also to the cruel." 1 Peter 2:18
Was really surprised to see those are cast pieces. Very sketchy!
Rent two sets of spring compressors. Put as many of the compressors on the springs that will fit (three or four). If one slips or fails, the extra compressors will prevent a sudden release of spring energy. Safety in numbers.
Actually not a bad idea
Absolutely a great method! I always rent two sets of spring compressors and use at least three on any given job.
Best idea!
That’s what I do too. Also I would check the price of a new strut and spring assembly. If they’re not terribly more expensive, I would replace the whole assembly.
Great idea, love it!!
as a professional, I recommend purchasing strut assemblies. you know, the ones that come with coils installed.
Same here, rather spend the extra cash and get the whole assembly. That us one part I always recommend doing if it needs it
That's what i was going to ask.
When I do replace the suspension on my car, hopefully they have good assemblies (modern car so there should be a ton available). If not, I will just buy a strut and a spring for a pro to do. And then I'll bring the used ones to them to make it safer for a recycling center if sorts. Springs, especially of that tension land are not to be taken lightly.
So did you disarm ied in sandbox? Of you must use ALWAYS use horizontal. And keep you foot on it with Steal toe boots. He is correct. Spend the money and get them loaded.. not worth the risk...also compress inside more to maintain Arc on reinstall... Better yet just NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Very much so agree, who wants tired 16 year old springs??? New ones make the rig feel brand new.
Pro tip: before removing the top spring cap, mark the orientation between the top cap and the rest of the strut assembly, otherwise, like me, you will reassemble the strut (that looks about right) and it will be rotated a half an inch off and will not fit with the rest of the suspension. After scratching your head a bit, you will resign yourself to re-removing it, re-compressing it, shifting the cap a half inch and re-reassembling it. Save yourself the extra hour of work and just mark the cap before initial disassembly.
Lol...did the same:)) I found a video where - at last at Acura TSX (Honda Accord CL7 in Europe) you have the align the top second bolt, with the bottom of the sock absorber where you have a factory mark. Will work like a charm.
We need more pro tips
Thank you, about to do this job on my Corsa!
This happened to me but luckily I was installing lowering springs so the spring wasn't as snug with the shocks as the bigger springs were so I could just rotate the whole assembly from the mounting plate with a hammer lol
One of the things you only do once.
One important safety tip. When handling the compressor tool with the compressed spring, NEVER point the top of the strut towards your face or any part of your body. Just in case an accident happens, the loosened top of the strut will never hit your face or body if you never point it at your face or body in the first place.
YES! Great tip!
Really no kidding. Ha ha. 😀
It can still bounce and hit your head. Seen it happen.
@@TyinAlaska Yep, and it would still hurt, could even still hurt you bad enough to kill you. But its significantly less energy taking it off a recoil than it is an initial pop off of that spring. Still not desirable, but the less energy you can get hit with the better!
Yea , just like handling a firearm !………
Ok so a few tips for dealing with big springs so you don't kill yourself.
1: if it goes, it's flying in the direction it's laying. Keep your body out of the kill zone.
2: ALWAYS undo bolts that are holding spring tension slowly.
3: Slow is smooth, smooth is calm, calm means you can think, thinking about what you're doing keeps you alive. Take your damn time and make sure everything is properly seated and aligned before you start applying tension on the spring compressors. Please don't do what my uncle did and not check your gear. on a spring compressor, any rust aside from extremely minor surface rust should be considered suspicious.
4: those coil springs hold up a damn car. treat a compressed coil spring like a live impact grenade. you drop it, it's sending something across your shop hard enough to embed into concrete.
5: make sure the idiots around you know you're working with what is essentially the mechanical version of a gun. again, you don't want Danny dumbass bumping into you and causing you to drop the spring.
Good man.
@@marcosd4381 Life lessons observed, but fortunately not taught the hard way. Uncle damn near took a threaded bar through the stomach though.
Danny Dumbass is a universal character around every workplace
The British equivalent of the Bazooka, the PIAT, used a similar big coil spring to launch the projectile into the target tank…
@@allangibson8494 false. The spring mechanism was used to propel the spigot which had a firing pin that when slammed into the explosive cartridge, ignited it and that is what propelled it. By doing this, the inertia of the spigot rod counteracted the energy expelled by the cartridge and decreases recoil.
When I did my Town Car I rented one of these. The biggest problem was the minimal space between the coils and the small diameter of the spring. I have done this dozens of times on other vehicles and this was the sketchiest.
In fact, halfway through I went in the house and cleared my computer history.
You know - just in case.
Private Window, my friend.
Made me smile.
I feel ya
Incognito Mode my dude.
Lol
Great video. I have the old-style spring compressors without the safety clips. I've never had a problem and I did use a compressor rachet on the entire thing. You have to be careful and always keep the top of the strut pointed away from you while the spring is under tension. And I like that you kept the coiled, tensioned spring on the ground and immediately put the new strut in it and resecured the entire thing right away. Don't touch the spring, just get the darn thing rebuilt, right on the ground safely, and move on. One thing I would say is only compress the spring enough to get the top cap off. Do NOT over compress the spring. If you are bending the bolt on the spring compressor, you are overtightening the nut. You only need enough tension to remove the cap safely. As soon as you see the spring gap at top or bottom STOP. As you loosen the top bolt on the strut, it should be relatively easy to remove, and the spring should not be moving up with it. Be careful and pay attention to what you are doing or like you said, let a Pro do it.
100%
No need to compress any more than necessary to disassemble, it’s unnecessary risk.
Thanks man. Good advice. I'm going to put old springs on a new strut and needed some solid tips.
I own a set like that, without the safety pins. Used it a few times, without any issues. The key is to take your time and do it slowly. This is definitely a job that you don't want to rush.
@Fred Wills too right. I've owned the same type of compressors as you for 25yrs, never had a problem.
Use them properly as the video shows. Impact wrench really helps.
@@soundsolutions Yeah those bolts are probably rated at enough yield strength to lift the whole car, I doubt they've ever actually made many widows. Probably more from seating tire beads.
Without the safety pins?
I was thinking the same thing. I've been modifying and repairing vehicles for over 20 years, since I was 16, and never once thought that this was scary or difficult. I've done shocks/struts at least 100 times.
Now doing it without this tool is scary, that nut shoots off of the top like a bullet haha
Emphasis on taking your time and doing it slowly. That includes not using an air gun on it. With the gun, it's tougher to keep both sides at the same amount of compression. Also, never point the ends of the spring toward anything important, like your body parts.
I've changed hundreds of strut cartridges using those spring compressors & never had one problem with them. They grab onto the spring exceptionally well.
I havent done hundreds but I've done a few and same, never had an issue. On older, classic cars that used springs and shocks instead of struts, I used a chain with a pad lock to tie the spring to the control arm just in case if it ever decided it wanted to go it wasnt gonna go far.
Never had problems with theses type of compressors. Once used some home made ones where the hook over the spring were hard metal and were sliding, plus no safety pin/ screw. I didn't complete the job with them as I envisaged trapped thumbs if they slipped round.
Overall good video, informative and helpful to DIY or apprentice mechanics. 👌
me too, for over 40 years, never had a prob
I think the problem is people are sacred of them because they've heard "stories" like many of us have. Not saying it's not true but they're like firearms....no need to be afraid just respect the tools and pay attention to what you're doing.
I’ve had the same set-sets for thirty years, only issue I had was a stripped rod from a sliver of metal getting sucked in while turning the nut. Like every tool, there is a correct way to use it. To do that you must be….. smart enough to do so and…… actually paying attention to what your doing with it.
I would be willing to bet most accidents happen because people weren’t careful or had no worldly reason to be touching that tool in the first place. I have met way to many ‘mechanics’ that really aren’t and shouldn’t be.
On my first car (Golf 4, 2.0) I had my mechanic uncle help me and teach me a bunch of stuff about working on cars. We renovated the motor and did a LOT of maintenance on it and it was a great learning experience. As we changed and replaced more and more parts we came to the struts.
He told me to be extremely careful when putting the springs under pressure and not touch it at all when it's loaded ( he didn't let me do it just to be clear, he just showed me). He said that it was possible for the spring to fly out of the contraption and basically break your arm if you were handling it at the time, but also that it could just plain kill you if it hit you in the head.
Man I was scared, when he started going to town with the impact, I backed off and he looked at me and just asked: "Are you scared?" I answer: "yeah... hehe..." and then he just said: "Good, you should be" nonchalantly but still serious.
Great memories :)
Similar thing with an ex mechanic friend.
He would do repairs for people who couldn't afford it at honestly very selfless prices (generally less than the customer wanted to pay, he is a great guy).
But spring was something he would take a garage, the place he went was a friends shop but he just did not want the risk himself.
I have been hit in the face by a big block spring in 1996.
I'm still here.
Knocked me on my ass, but that was it.
@@4uh8rz2nv Good that's all that happened. You know human bodies and injuries though. Some people get blown up, shot, then blown up again and survive and others die straining on the toilet. Anything can happen!
Or just buy the complete strut assembly with the spring already on it.
@@greenspiraldragon No need if it's only the spring that's bad, waste of money
I took an auto shop class in highschool, and we had an industrial spring compressor. It was the only thing that our teacher never let us get close to. He told us on multiple occasions how much force was being applied and what it would do to anyone it hit. Needless to say, scariest thing in the shop!
In shop, it was the band saw; slices off fingers very easily ... and the band can snap sending it anywhere.
@@John-ih2bx i experienced that at age 12. Cut my thumb to the wrist. I tried to hide it for my parents affraid to get punisched. Haha
@@TheAdatto I hope they were able to reattach and give you thumb capability. In some cases, they will amputate the index finger to replace the thumb. I have had one amputation(index finger) and many surgeries. This was not caused by a band saw, but I can understand damage, especially to hands.
Nowadays there are even scarier things out there, like electric brakes, i saw people who didn't know how they work and started to change the pads.... And then someone opened the door and the pistons where launched out, let's say they are like bullet's if one of those hit you, you have bo chance to survive.
The first in Auto class our teacher made us use it 😭😅
You know as someone making a video specifically with the spring compression tool in mind, you should’ve also shown the frames where you tightened the top nut before the tool removal. That’s an incredibly important step and would go a long way to show the importance of completing all steps as they were undone on the older strut, prior to the tool removal.
It might also help to note that he specifically said he wasn't a professional and mentioned numerous times to have a professional do it.
Ya but fraz is right he should have made a bigger deal about tightening the top nut
yeah at first I was like whoa you certainly are not ready to remove those compressors lmao
@@infotechsailor Fairly certain he withheld those steps so that no-one could follow along with the video. Its not a tutorial.
@@seansnyder2855 He didn't withhold the step though. He said to bottom it out. He just didn't show himself doing it. He should have but he didn't withhold it either.
Back in the early 90's I used to work at a brake and muffler shop. And I was warned about spring compressors like that and how dangerous they are. At the shop we had a spring press that was specifically set up for struts so it was very safe to use. Great video!!!
Big trucks have really dangerous braking components too.
@@johndoe7270 yeah man. You've got that one right
yeah we had one of those at my shop, much faster than these dinky things
A guy I knew had a spring let go with one of these setups - it hit his forehead, took a skullcap-shaped portion of his head off. It was held on by a flap of scalp, and flipped to the back of his head. I didn't see the accident, but his workmate who drove him to the hospital had nightmares about it. He could see his mates brain. His mate was holding the portion of his skull forward over the blasted hole in the top of his head for the whole drive. I also got told another story of a young apprentice who accidentally bumped a spring-compressed spring sitting on the bench. The spring hit him in the eye socket and blasted half his head off. He died before the ambulance arrived. The funeral was attended by a lot of people I went to school with. These things are really, really dangerous, and need to be treated with a great deal of respect.
probably first step is to secure the whole assembly in a vice, instead of doing it on the garage floor like this guy. Geesh.
I have never felt so stressed out by a single video in my life. Even when everything is done right, compressed springs are absolutely no joke. Glad you made it through such a harrowing task!
He won't shut up and when you keep talking it make it look way harder than it really needs to be.
It doesn't make them any less dangerous. One of my previous jobs had a whole class on why spring compressors are dangerous and how to use them properly, or not at all.@@jrock5995
the only reason he is alive is because an angel was looking out for him that day.
Have a look at the videos "How to change a strut without a spring compressor" one day when you're feeling strong!
heh i have used alot of these what i used didnt even have the safety pin things that these have i was 15 when i used em first time its not really that bad if you know what ur doing
Anyone else up here in the rust belt enjoy a nice chuckle when folks with beautiful, rust-free vehicles like this talk about things being hard to remove? I love it here, and I even love our beautiful winters. That said, if I could change just one thing . . .
Anyway, great video! I enjoyed the watch.
Arizona does have its benefits.
Wow, I've never used an impact wrench. I always do 6 cranks on the socket wrench and then move to the other side to do 6 cranks. Yes, it's a slow process, but I feel safe doing it this way and have never had a problem in the last 30 years.
I do five cranks on the socket wrench on the first one. Then 10 on the second and 10 each time for the rest. Works fine.
I do 4½ cranks on side and 4¾ cranks on the other side
@@lospolloshermanos2692
😂
I used impact wrench before but, not after tools smacked together (because of impacts one slide to second tool) so I ended up with both tools on one side of spring pressed and other side not pressed at all (almost sh*t myself when it happened) Never used impact on that after that I will rather take my time and live. :)
Be carefull guys!
I do 5 cranks on a side
but after taxes thats only 3.8 net cranks
A few weeks ago I completed the task of replacing all four struts on my 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix, and it wasn't so bad. While I'm not a mechanic by trade, I took the time to read and watch a few tutorials, which gave me the confidence and knowledge I needed. I meticulously worked on each side, taking the time to turn and adjust while keeping the strut securely locked in a vice. Though it was time-consuming, I made sure to properly compress and decompress the springs, ensuring a safe and successful installation. The job took me two days in total, with the rear struts being slightly more challenging due to limited space in the trunk. Nevertheless, I persevered and got the job done. Considering the money I saved by doing it myself, I feel incredibly accomplished. Firestone had quoted a substantial amount for the same task, but with a little DIY spirit and some investment in tools, I managed to complete it on my own. Overall, this experience has boosted my confidence, and I would definitely consider tackling similar projects in the future. I had also replaced the tie-rods and rear sway assembly since it had rusted and broke. I took the car back to Firestone for an alignment and they could only do the front because the rear is too badly seized. They quoted me $500 to replace the trailing arms and only did the front for $122. WTF? I found the parts online for $28 and will just replace them out myself, and then take it to a different Firestone location to align the rear, and hopefully get them to do it for free. It's amusing that a kid at the auto parts store I rented the tool from dubbed me a "certified RUclips Specialist." Well, I'll wear that badge with pride! This whole experience has not only boosted my confidence but also ignited a passion for tackling more projects in the future. It's empowering to be able to handle car maintenance on my own terms.
I did the same thing on a 94 Talon - took me about a day to do all four corners.
That’s what it’s all about my guy. 👍🏼
Nice, keep it up. The more skills and confidence you gain, the quicker and easier the next job is.
The YT vids take the discovery out of the equation. I watch several, then complete the task. 👍🍺
When I was a mechanic we used to send them out to a suspension repairer they had made up a safety cage type setup with hydraulic rams to compress the springs.They were cheap to get done and quick with pickup and delivery with no risk of injury
you WERE a mechanic? so now you're a nurse? lol
@@automachinehead lol, I was a mechanic that also became a nurse too!'
We have a commercial type spring compressor that is mounted to a beam in the wall. I caution anyone using it to treat the operation like a loaded gun. Other nearby shops bring their strut assemblies to us to have the shocks changed. It takes only minutes, and we do it as a courtesy.
@@rollydoucet8909 lmao y’all were so dramatic
Pointer from someone who has used these spring compressors too many times: Rent TWO sets. Or own one and rent the second when needed, for a total of FOUR little compressor dealios. And then use THREE of the compressor dealios separated by 120deg around the strut/spring assembly. This way, you can use the impact wrench safely. IF YOU ONLY HAVE TWO OF THE COMPRESSOR DEALIOS (one set) DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH.
Is "compressor dealio" the term I want to use if I go to rent a set of these someday? 🤣🤣
The thread needs to be lubricated and
You're not supposed to use impact wrench on this tool if you care for your own well being ....
No it’s “Widowmakin’ dealio”
this video gave me anxiety:
"We shouldn't mess around with this widowmaker..."
*"I don't know if this is ok but I'm gonna use an impact wrench"*
@@dylanstandingalone yeah.
I use a motorcycle helmet when I use a spring compressor. Just makes sense.
i do the same, i use my full face helmet, just to give my self a piece of mind haha
Smart man. Wish I thought of that.
Seriously?
@@mikew6786 Mike. Have you ever seen one break? I saw one and the velocity of which it parted would have killed anyone in it's path. Luckily it hit a shelf and knocked everything out on the floor. Always made sure I was out of harms way.
@@jameswahnee6445 I know how dangerous they are. With the shitty metal coming out of China, I think its safer and wiser to have a shop do it unless you have a wall mounted spring compressor. Cheap threaded steel is a death wish.
This reminds me of when I was a mechanic for a electric construction company. We had to work on all kinds of things. Being relatively green in the professional world, I was warned about the braking components on big trucks. They have compressed spring in a housing to lock up if air pressure goes too low. Taking it apart is also very dangerous and I'm glad I never had to mess with them.
Hey John, I'm a heavy duty diesel mechanic and I've done these brake chambers daily! They are dangerous, but safer than these coil overs because there is a safety mechanism called a caging bolt that you insert into the high side port of the chamber. They are designed from factory to take that specific caging bolt to allow safe maintenance!!
Accumulator, I saw an idiot try to disassemble a charged one once. He survived, the wall wound up with a hole…
Changing tires on those big rigs that use rim rings is another way to die.
I can 100% confirm that if the spring falls over with the clamps you need to take cover immediately! When it happened to me ,one clamp flew past me and embedded itself in the side of the shed 8 feet away! always been extra careful since that haha..
Oh whew!!! Lucky day!
Oh yeah.. you really want to be in a largish area, as ricochet is not your friend if something goes wrong with a coil spring using these.
I heard one story of it taking out a large piece of concrete, so not at all surprised that it got embedded in the wall in your case, better the wall than your head though!
.....................but that's why they're so fun
.................it's the danger rush
falls over? so you stood the spring on end? i would never advise that as the spring ends are not exactly square across. there is an angle to them. that is why the platforms are angled.
45 years ago or so my buddy was changing the springs on my Monte Carlo. Top notch mechanic. He told how scared he was to do that job. Definitely the widow maker!!! Nice job. The ad thing is you made it look doable in the home garage!
I've used this tool many times. *I've never had a problem.* Saves $$. Using an impact definitely speeds things up. As a side note, torque needs checked with the wheel hub compressed.... being on the ground, or with a floor jack. Final tightening on all suspension components should be done under compression.
I was thinking the exact same thing. Everything engine, suspension and transmission should be torqued to spec.
I believe this is the ONLY video that shows how to take apart and reinstall front struts on this platform. All others use ready strut assemblies.
Thank You
Like most other automotive repairs, it's recommended to have a great level of common sense going into it and to take a great deal of care as to make sure everything that you do is as thorough as possible and aims to replicate OEM standards as closely as possible. These tools are very dangerous in the wrong hands, just as much as a car can be dangerous depending on it's driver.
Dangerous in the right hands also.....
@@YTiswoke only if you have a defective one. i have used them as well as those with the twin fingers and at no time was i scared to use them. the two fingers ones can be dangerous if you are not careful because there is no safety pin and i have had them slide up on the spring before.
these are pretty simple to use if you do it right and it is nothing to fear when handled correctly. by putting out an alarming video saying they are super dangerous even when using caution is doing your viewers a disservice.
On most cars I've worked on, you only have to tighten the compressors by a very few turns. The spring is already somewhat compressed by the assembly anyway. Fit the two compressors, tighten them just a little, then loosen the top nut. Once that nut is within 3 or 4 turns of coming off, it should be hand-tight, clearly showing that the spring is now held by the compressors and not the strut assembly. If necessary, tighten the compressors a few more turns until the top nut is only hand-tight, then remove the top nut. Job done with minimal risk of explosions and also minimal time wasted tightening the compressors.
That seems fairly accurate to me, though I have never done this. Most things I've learned regarding mechanical tension is that a little goes a long way.
I wonder what the factory / dealer tool looks like. My guess is it will grab the the top of the strut bearing and lower spring support. That way you don`t have to compress the spring, just let off the tension when the top nut is off. Also, I see the cast parts of the tensioners used in the video have hammer marks... I would scrap them immediately!!
@@dutchcuda There is no factory tool for springs. You buy an aftermarket one that usually bolts to a wall. The spring always gets compressed.
@@AT-wl9yq So you say official dealer mechanics work with aftermarket tools for this job...? Also, always IS compressed. There is no need to compress it more. You want to hold it in position untill the top nut is off ,then release tension. Anyways, that`s how I do it with the factory tool for my bmw.
I have used this tool many times with no issue. However, I highly recommend you know what you are doing and take it slow and steady. I also found it best to break-loose the top strut nut before removing it from the vehicle for they do not come off as easy as in the video.
Or if you have a Dewalt cordless impact, it zips right off.
yeah missed a step prior to load removal......turn the top strut nut enough to break torque, I saw 1 vid say turn 1/4 in before the mounting nuts at the top are removed.
But, for muppets reading, just barely crack loose the top nut but do NOT, do NOT remove the top nut until the spring tension is controlled by the compressors or it will fire the nut and top plate across the room via your face!
I have only used this 1 time . Ended up putting Worm style hose clamps on each side of the clamp where it was on the spring to prevent it from slipping . It worked . Since then I just replace the whole assembly .
5:14 I find this unreasonably hilarious. Just gets finished telling us how dangerous this thing is, and then he hits us with a "Now, Idk if this is ok or not, but I want things to go faster, so-"
@7:45 "can be done with EXSTREME CAUSION"...... yet he wanted to do it faster lmaooooo
Yea VERY DANGEROUS yet proceeds to do it .... and does it without any injury or harm
My little tip when using a Spring Compressor, is to clean and lubricate the screw threads extremely well, before use. You do not want those threads to fail - whilst under the enormous compression forces, or this could cost you your life.
i was going to say that those long stud threads are the single most important part, if those threads are stripped, its GOING to slip.
Definitely clean and lubricate threads, key tip to use this tool safely.
@@tomledoux would lubricating the threads be dangerous (e.g. cause the nut to undo itself)
@@zzoinks I don't recall finding that to be a risk. The tension removes the chance of the nut loosening, and the lubrication makes it vastly smoother to turn and with less effort.
@@tomledoux thank you for the explanation! I ultimately decided I'll avoid doing the spring compression after reading some scary stories. I felt like it would be better for an experienced mechanic with better tools to do it than me, and I am super new to DIY car repair. I'll try to find a good complete strut
Some things:
1.) Struts are not a "damper with a spring around it", that's more appropriately called a "Coil Over" (As in Coil Spring Over Shock). A Strut is simply a damper which is an integral part of the suspension's motion. IE: If you can remove the damper and it causes the wheel to flop around uncontrollably, that's a strut. If you can remove it and it DOESN'T impact the tire geometry at all, that's a shock. They perform the same function.
2.) I've used these devices multiple times and never been injured using them. You'd have to be pretty daft to get injured with them. Make sure the safety pins engage, make sure to not over compress the spring.
3.) The forces in typical automotive springs range from about 80lbs/in to 220lbs/in in compression. Doesn't take much compression to build up to some CRAZY forces! Be safe!
Thank you.
2) and if the threads fail like multiple people have mentioned?
@@ano_nym 3:46 rewatch from here for your answer.. must be in “good condition” as possible
I taught myself how to work on cars over the last 8 years and I like your attitude about it. I think for people who are mechanically inclined, learning about cars is very doable, but you have to have a sense of things. For people who have never worked on anything cars are generally not a good starting point.
This was helpful to me and I'm an amateur blacksmith. Coil springs make good stock and knowing how to strip them SAFELY is invaluable. Thanks a bunch mate!
Do you melt them down or just straighten them out and make into things?
@@ano_nym Just cut and beat.
@@ano_nym straightening spring steel sounds like a kinda hell that no man should ever have to face 😂
@@everyhandletaken I assume you could just heat it up enough?
@@ano_nym Heat 'em to cherry red, straighten, then use them as stock to make things.
Lol! Living in a cold climate where they they turn our roads into something that resembles the salt flats during our winter, if the underside of my vehicle looked anywhere as clean as yours, I would never even need to buy a can of penetrating oil. Here we often need to use torches to free up bolts not just a cute little squirt of oil.
Was thinking that. Christ if he saw under my car hed probably give up before he started
The only thing that's worse to work on is dedicated plow trucks.
The idiots that own them park them after the last snow, and that salt sits on them all summer. Between the dew, fog, and heat the is usually more rust than truck after two years.
Even heavy frames get eaten completely through!
Just simply move out of the rust belt. Or look into Blaster Surface Shield.
Down here in the south you can get cars easily past 200k with a clean undercarriage. I've had to work on a few vehicles from up north and that was the most aggravating thing ever.
I mad a similar comment the minute he showed the bottom side. That’s like new.
Jimmy I’ve done quite a few of these struts never having any problems, I do however recommend a face shield
Good call. I need one of those!
i compressed only the middle 4 coils instead of the entire coil. seemed safe
maybe you can help me with my issue, I recently bought a 2007 Lincoln Town Car and I've noticed the front end of the car I hear some squeaky noise, my first guess was the front struts because even when I open/close the front doors you can hear it too, any idea what it can be?
@@johnnycash2860 I had something similar with my 98 explorer, I sprayed the heck out of them with some lube, it helped for a little while but the squeak always came back, the bushings were just old and dry, I never did replace them because I traded it in for a newer car
@@johnnycash2860 normally squeaks are a bushing. Maybe control arms or sway bar mount bushings.
Used mine so many times without issue. If you follow a couple logical safety steps, no one should ever get hurt. FYI, I use anti seize on mine. Helps the tool live a long happy life.
I also agree with the dire warnings about spring compressors. I have used them several times, but my precaution is to get some fencing wire, and attach the spring, both parts of the compressor, to a fixed object so if they explode apart, they cannot touch me. You could use light chain also.
i shackle them to the recovery tow points on my 4wd when loosening the up and never use a impact
I draped some heavy fabric/cloth/canvas over the bulk of it. I've seen people drape blankets over winch cable when 4x4ing because if it snaps under load apparently that's a good way to kill the momentum of anything that wants to go flying.
In over 15 years of working on car professionally, I've not once heard a spring compressor referred to as a "widow maker". In fact, most every tech I've ever worked with would consider it a "money maker" more than anything else because struts are EASY money. Like ANY tool, there is a right way and a wrong way to use a spring compressor. No, using it the right way does not mitigate the risk 100%, but being a good safe driver doesn't mitigate 100% of your risk of being in a car accident either. Yes, a compressed car spring is a dangerous thing, but that doesn't mean it has to be unsafe... the vast majority of the danger can be mitigated if done properly.
For all those saying that those "quick struts" aka "preloaded struts" are the answer... first of all, both the struts and the springs in those are almost always bottom tier. I've seen a number of them suffer from broken springs or a strut blowout within the first year of use and if that doesn't happen, they are worn out and need replaced again within 2-3 years. There is a reason they cost less than buying the individual components and if you plan on keeping the car long term, they'll actually end up costing you more because they wear out so quickly. I would never recommend using those. Second, when "quick struts" are used, it is imperative that the old assembly NOT be thrown into the garbage without disassembly. Doing so presents a HUGE risk to unknowing trash collectors and the people at the landfill. The danger factor of a compressed spring is much higher if you don't even know the spring is there AND you're twisting it every which way with the compactor in your garbage truck. For safety sake, the springs MUST be decompressed prior to disposal.
Do you haul trash for a living? I never thought about the danger an old strut assembly. I would not buy a "quick strut." I have seen nothing but problems.
Don't throw any metal in the trash. There's always someone with a truck looking for scrap metal. Just make a pile at the edge of your yard with 'free scrap' sign.
@@The_R-n-I_Guy I take my metal to the transfer site and drop it into the big metal dumpster
LOL 😂 I brought some old struts, springs, brake rotors and other metal scrap to a local recycler and got $12 in cash which I used immediately to buy chicken tamales from a lady who was about 6 steps away from the cashier. The circular economy
@@JesusPerez-iv2ej kind of like having a beer store next to the can redemption place. You can reinvest all the can money from drinking beer straight back into more beer!
When I did alignments, I had the pleasure of watching a strut spring fly out of the wall mounted air actuated spring compressor. All safety precautions were used, because I always was afraid of that thing.
I've never used a manual spring compressor since leaving the shop, I now buy the strut assemblies whole.
I worked for years at a shop that had a Snap on pneumatic coil spring compressor that was not a wall mount type. For years, NEVER had a problem ... then one day I was working at a deep crouch, I had just slipped the strut out of the spring and the spring came out of the compressor, bounced off the floor and hit me in the left knee, just under the knee cap. It hurt so bad, I couldn't even draw a breath to scream. All I could do was roll on the floor and hold my knee. Went to the hospital, I was lucky it hit the floor first and slowed down. Nothing broken, but it swelled up like a basketball.
@@oddshot60 Imagine if that hadn't bounced, and went into your eye. I see a lot of old-timers here how they've been using the same set for 25, 30, 40 years and "never had any issues." Well good for them but many others are not so lucky, it only takes once. Nothing shameful about taking preventative measures, replacing tools BEFORE they start looking worn out, redundancies, fail-safes, etc. Familiarity leads to complacency. Complacency leads to injuries or worse fatalities.
@@phxcppdvlazi The incident was more than 35 years ago, I doubt the machine was 10 years old. Wall mounts were way in the future. In those days there were NO safety devices on the machines. We were all very scared of what could happen. The machine and spring was between my knees and aimed at my crotch. I was REAL lucky it took the bounce it did.
I've used these on occasion, always nervous until they're safely disengaged, but with proper precautions they're the right tool for the job. There are so many good suggestions in the comments in addition to this good tutorial. I've found that buying these already assembled saved a lot of time and appreciates the need to compress any springs. The time saved and the safety trade-off makes it worth it for me at this time. Thank you for the good video.
I do Overhead Doors with some extremely dangerous springs and understand the tension they're under. It's all about respecting the dangers things like that pose. Patience is key. 👍🏽✌🏽
Those, and spring loaded marine hatches [which probably have 3x the spring rate, but less travel] make me nervous. If you don't have the right tools [and like your face the way it is], don't even think of adjustment.
I used to use those same type of spring compressors, but after a while, it was quicker and definitely safer to buy a floor type press for springs, bushings, and ball joints.
Safer to compress at an angle, specifically perpendicular to the slope of the spring. More contact surface area than T-ing up the edges of the compressor . Used this tool yesterday, satisfying to use
I agree. Less contact area if parallel. Compressing new springs i do it over a steel pipe held in a vice. I use a chain vicegrip to hold the spring to the pipe.
A good set of spring compressors have a beveled paw. They are designed to be parallel to the strut. Using cheap ones that don't have beveled paws is extremely dangerous.
Was thinking that, I can’t see it seating properly as the coil isn’t straight, that’s how I did my vans
@@robertlarivee3968 dont blame stupid tool, blam stupid user
I was putting Bilsteins on the front of my '05 Titan about three months back. I started with a pair of compressors I got at that "Freight" place. They bent up like spaghetti and the nuts froze. I had to go get some loaners from a car parts shop just to get the old compressors off and complete the job.
I think you did a good job detailing the process and making safety a factor. I have 2 kinds of spring compressors I use. One set is like what you used and another is what's called a Clamshell Spring Compressor. The clamshell is the way to go, much safer and a lot easier. Now days, the other one sits in my tools box in case I ever need a backup.
I have the clamshell compressor and can verify it is much safer as more of the spring is grabbed on the top and bottom. And I used it for short cut BMW springs which are harder to compress.
I used a coil compressor to convert the rear air shocks on my Lincoln Towncar. I didn't find it particularly difficult or dangerous. I knew the coils hold enormous energy when compressed and treated them with respect.
Don't hold it near your face and you'll be fine
@@xenoneuronics6765 I saved $800 doing it myself.
I've done this myself a few times. It's really no big deal as long as the compressors are installed properly and not cinched down too tightly. You just want them tight enough to take the tension off the end bolt.
Back when I worked at a shop, we used to just take struts and put them against a curb, or something firm. And then with a foot on the end, we zipped the top bolt off with an impact gun, the spring would shoot the strut across the shop floor. It usually went about 5-10 feet. It's not that bad. I wouldn't want any body parts in the line of fire.
THIS. We are talking a few hundred pounds of force, not thousands. The foot on spring method works great.
Correct. People in this comment section acting like it becomes a warhead after tension is released
@@supersabrosinho . Some idiot in the comments recommended tying it down to a chain wrapped around a tree to prevent it from flying across the street. LOL
Did the same last night to remove the factory springs and install lowered springs. The spring stayed under my foot, the strut didn’t make it 5 feet across the floor. It’s really not a big deal
After putting about 200,000 miles on my 96 Impala SS, I decided to replace the ball joints and bushings in the front end. That meant renting a spring compressor to get the upper and lower A-Frames out on both sides. In hind sight, I should not have done it. In any case, I proceeded. Well, at one point I compressed the spring and pulled it out of the car. I should NOT have stood the spring up while it's compressed. At some point it fell over and the compression clamps let go. All of that stored energy released at the same time. It made one hell of a bang and sparks flew as the spring bounced off the concrete. No harm was done to the tool, the spring or the floor. Can't say the same for my nerves. Next time I'll leave it up to an expert.
Well-presented info.
Good safe presentation.
However, just buy loaded struts with the spring already installed.
Coil springs will break, usually at the ends.
"Be careful, That thing will blown your head off"
-an old mechanic at the first shop I worked at
The first time i used one of those i set the spring compressed on the workbench. my brother came up knocking it off the bench and it imbibed itself into the roof when the compressors fell off.
It is a serious amount of pressure to be casual with. I have seen them spring out. Caution and careful wins the day.
I have used one exactly two times. Couldn't fit a needle in my bung. I now change the whole strut. Less work, and you get a new spring, shock and mount/bearing. Worth a little more to have all new parts instead of changing piecemeal. Other job I just did was replace a control arm, because the balljoint was riveted in, and just the first rivet was a pain. It always looks so easy in the videos! Call it being lazy, or maybe just getting wiser! - edit after watching most of the video: The tool manufacturers usually don't like impacts being used. Also, you know you've compressed the spring enough when the top mount/bearing turns easily. Loosen the top nut, like you did, and make sure the spring is loose between the bottom mount on the shock and the top bearing/mount. ONLY THEN is it safe to remove the top nut completely off. Good video btw.
It's a good idea to mark up the position of the spring and it's relation to the top plate as not all springs sit in the centre of the strut and can rub on the body if not positioned correctly.
I've found that undoing the top strut nut a half turn while car's weight is on it makes the job a lot quicker. And always respect the energy in the spring.
You're braver than me. Haha. We had an Envoy, and I just bought a complete strut, without messing with the spring.
The issue with replacement strut assembles is the size of the spring, always check it compared to the manufacturer
@@catslivesmatter1268 i bought the replacement strut assemblies for my chevy truck and the thing seems to ride worse with these new struts... lol ..must be from china..
@@jondoh5961 always micro the spring and the strut rod, you can definitely see what the difference is and yes they are foreign made
ya good idea... i got them from napa i didnt give it much thought that it might not ride as well...live n learn...lol
What did you do with the compressed strut you took out? You can't toss them that way.
When I was young, I borrowed a set of those strut compressors… the guy at the gas station pointed to the hole in the ceiling like 14 feet above… that was made by it.. good lesson.. also about that time I got a job at the other shop in town, and as they were showing me how to use the old tire machine…. Guess what, he points to the hole in the even higher ceiling where that center bar bead thing left a hole… keep a good hold of it ray ray said…
I don’t care how long you have worked on cars, trucks etc. anytime you use strut spring compressors is a nerve wracking experience. :)
In Australia, we just use fencing wire, compress the strut whilst still mounted to the car and wrap three lengths of wire spaced evenly around the spring. Then you release the Jack, remove the strut and disassemble it as the spring is already to taken out. To refit, simply reassemble, fit to car, use the Jack to take up the slack and cut the wire, job done!
That is because you Australia Fellers are a touch crazier than the rest of the modern world!
It’s goes with the territory considering the amount of critters that can seriously ruin ones day in the land of OZ…
However, great idea when one doesn’t have access to the correct tool and needs to get it done! Many may scoff at the idea of using tie wire, bailing wire, or as you called it fence wire not realizing just how strong and durable it can be if Afroengineered correctly!
Yeah I put my spring compressors on with the spring already compressed, never trying to compress the springs by hand.
For anyone thinking of doing this at their house and changing their springs or struts, whether they're old and worn out or you want to lower your car or something, don't be afraid of these things. Just use them correctly and you will be fine. Make sure out of the gate that the compressor is lubricated and the threads look good. Always have the strut and spring assembly facing away from you when you are compressing the spring. That way if you do something wrong at least the spring shoots away from you instead of hitting you. Always compress evenly on each side like shown in the video. Also don't compress further than you need to, just until you can freely spin the spring a little, then you can remove the top components. Another big tip would be always replace the nylon lock nut that goes on top of the strut mount, just find one that is the same size with the same thread pitch. I had a nut once where the threads were stripped slightly and when I went to tighten the nut back down it grabbed for a little ways and then eventually couldn't hold on anymore and the spring shot clean off of the strut. Also if you're going to do this and replace your struts I always advise against pre-assembled all-in-one products. Obviously these are way easier to install but generally speaking the quality is not consistently good; these products are made literally everyone, many companies do not have standardized quality control and many just use cheap materials, every generic company these days makes an all-in-one assembly so it's very hard to know what is trash and what isn't. If you want something that isn't a piece of trash that you're going to have to end up replacing soon after you install it, I would either try and find OEM struts or go with something like Bilstein, Tokico or even Koni. Bilstein are generally your best all-round option for a good mix of performance and comfortability. Strut assemblies are a crap shoot unless you can get an OEM one. Another good practice is to make sure if you're doing this on an older vehicle with worn out struts that you go ahead and replace any and all rubber components as well; this includes the upper mount, coil spring insulator, dust boot, bump stop and any rubber bushings.
I'm not disparaging shops, there's plenty of things you'll want to take your car to a shop for if you're not confident fixing it. But the more you learn, the easier it's going to be for you to maintain your vehicle and keep it running smoothly, and the less you're going to be intimidated to tackle. It's hard to find an honest mechanic these days (or an affordable one), and with new cars being practically unavailable and used cars being at all time high prices, you're going to want to be able to make your car last as long as possible. Don't be afraid to fix things yourself, just make sure you do a lot of research before hand, so you know safe working practices and probably most importantly, how to take it apart and put it back together correctly.
Thanks for writing this. I needed this encouragement. The advice to keep away from the spring longitudinal axis is pure gold. If, in addition to that advice, you put the spring on a leash (chain it to a tree for example), it's physically [almost] impossible for the spring to hit you.
@@eggnoc I went to a dealership for an oil change (coupon) and they told me they inspected my car. Said my brake pads were worn, and also needed new rotors. I told them to show me, cause I just replaced them a few days ago. They came back and said the tech made a mistake. Two days later I noticed a little fluid on the driveway. I jacked up the vehicle and found a powersteering line connector was slightly loose. I tightened it back down. No problem since. Never went back there again. I do all my own oil and filter changes, and wrenching on my vehicles. No more fluid leaks.
@@SirGolfalot- Yes, it is because of that kind of stuff I'm doing at least oil/filter job now too. Next step is whole suspension job which is why I was watching this (already ordered my spring compressor).
I tried to go OEM for a Toyota I’m working on for my son. Had the money but there were no parts. Tried several parts stores and online. Had to reluctantly settle on an after market set.
I've used these many times. Right in the parking lot. I did mobile repair for years. Love that kind of work. Pay is amazing working for yourself too.
Did this when I was 18 or 19 in my parents driveway when I was big into car modding. I didn't think it was that big of a deal.
It did slip once, I just let it go and it spun around really fast to relieve the pressure.
Good solution to slipping is put a little padding where the metal compressor touches the metal spring with either a small face towel or some shop towels... it increases the friction and improves the grip of the compressor touching the spring.
Garage door springs made me a little more nervous when I replaced those myself IMO.
Years ago me and my dad used one of these to change the front shocks on my mom’s Toyota Land Cruiser. We bought the most heavy duty spring compressor kit that auto parts store offered. Unfortunately, one of the clamps on the spring compressor shattered while compressing the spring and a large chunk of the beak shot upwards with so much force that it embedded itself into the wooden ceiling.
Turned out the beaks of the clamps were made of cast iron and there was a small air pocket where it shattered. I’m still thankful neither of us had our head positioned above the clamps when it happened.
Wow.
😯
The directions specifically tell you not to use an impact gun!
I.guess you have never used them before. I've never seen anyone not use an impact.
@@troyb3659 I have used them and I have read the directions. The directions clearly state.....do not use a impact tool.
@@troyb3659 All the anyone's you have seen use an impact.....have not read the directions and my suggestion to you is......just because you see someone or lots of someone's doing something does not mean it is ok. You need to learn how to think for yourself.
@@troyb3659 You guessed wrong
@@TheGregWallace damn bro, you mad or what? 3 post to answer my 1. Now that I have your attention....I find d it hilarious that you read the instructions. Only 2% of the people that use this have read the directions. They are harmless. Hit it with an impact and be done with it. Well first you would have to go buy a compressor and impact. Yoir man card has been revoked.
1) Put your work on a bench where it's easy to work on and secure it.
2) Treat that spring like a loaded gun. Keep all your body parts away from the ends. There is a lot of energy there.
3) Keep the tension on your compressor tool balanced (just like you did in the video. Keep them in balance.
I've used those on my Silverado springs when upgrading to eibach springs a while back...this is the civilian equivalent of extracting a 40mm round out of a MK19 in the military. Similar pucker factor just not as extreme as handling an explosive round.
Well with both either your right or it's suddenly not your problem anymore, lol.
When I went to MK-19 training I was amazed at the number of procedural statements that included "if you do this wrong, you can die."
When ever possible buy the complete strut assemblies. Unbolt the old and bolt in the new. These springs are no joke and are extremely dangerous. All it takes is one clamp to be bumped and its off like a rocket. Its always best to replace all components with the strut. That is strut mount, coil spring, strut boot, and strut.
If you buy all these components individually it costs more. Complete struts come together and can be done in 30mins time. Plus makes it much safer and less expensive. I've done the completes on a 01 bonneville.
Often times the complete assembly comes with cheaper made smaller diameter springs that don't perform the same
Yes, oftentimes the quality of the loaded struts are only mediocre. I'd rather buy known quality individual components and take my chances with the tools, lol.
Oil the threads on the compressor.
Don't use an impact.
my thoughts exactly. "im not sure if this is okay" - its not. the sudden pinging shock from that impact could easily fracture the screw if its becoming fatigued.
@@butstough also, the vibration can cause the compressor to dislodge from the spring. It's not going to happen every time, but it does happen.
The second I saw him us an impact gun, I stopped an came to the comments,
Dangerous video people , don't ever use an impact on spring compression tool. EVER!!!! if you must use a power/air tool use the ratchet but only after u started with a hand ratchet.
@@butstough Unfortunately, he may have set it up for the next guy to experience a catastrophic failure of the screw by creating hair-line fractures by impacting it.
agreed..Never use the air tool.. i use 2 ratchets 3/8 drive with a socket on each side, equally tightening left and right sides till its compressed..shock flat on floor and facing Away from me..nut Slightly Preloosened on strut but still On the threads , done when its On the car....no real issues except the damn autozone compressors hang not cleanly seated on the springs...no matter which way they were oriented
Armchair athlete here, but it looks pretty straightforward as long as you follow the directions?
Seems like people who error with this tool are in a rush and don’t follow safety procedure, or don’t compress the spring evenly.
It’s like the torsion springs on a garage door. Very dangerous.
Thanks for the heads up
Yep, I’d rather pay someone for the garage door springs. Done this type of job for a few cars already and never had an issue. Of course you just have to be careful
@@milehighboost5521 I've done these years ago. Out of necessity. Today not so much. It's an expensive fix. At any garage tho. But CONPLETO struts got a bad bad name too
Garage springs are not hard to do. Just need two people and a couple of good 1/2 inch metal rods. Not difficult at all. Just have to go slow and like most work, watch what your doing.
I bought a foreclosed house and the garage smelled really bad ..like rotten potatoes. As I’m standing there pressure washing the floor, one of the door springs broke, took out the safety cable with it and missed my face by maybe 10 inches.. it put a dent in the door! They were cooking something in that garage, made everything rust!
Done it, not difficult unless you don’t use right tools or procedures. You did well, same as me. Any spring is inherently dangerous. Agree that buying a loaded strut is the smart thing to do if in doubt. PS This is nothing compared to a garage door spring, now that’s dangerous! Good video.
People don't know how many people are killed and injured by garage doors every year. Those gizmos are nothing to mess with if you don't know a good bit about them. Knowing a little or nothing about them can get you hurt or killed
How has no one mentioned the fact not to use an impact on these compressors.
The rattling vibration seems to me to likely be a big part of the problem….
Because every mechanic in the world uses impacts on them. Don't let some kid making minimum wage scare you with some term he made up....widow maker. That kid thinks his tooth brush is a widow maker.
@@troyb3659 10 years experience as mechanic from dealership to mining equipment, THIS IS A DANGEROUS JOB.
Use common sense, I often use an impact to the first point of tension then wind using hand tools.
@@anthonyabela2328 okay, so they are dangerous. Im saying using impacts on them does not make them anymore dangerous. Yes, using an impact will wear and round the heads. By the time you round your heads, you should probably be replacing them anyways. Ive never heard of them being called "the widow maker" and neither have you....it just doesnt fit the bill.
@@troyb3659 got to agree on that, calling them widow maker is over the top. Not too confident on using impacts on this tool though.
I'm 36, I have this same tool and I've owned it for a few years but I've rented it since I was like 21 and I've never had any issues with it, mainly because I'm not stupid.
This definitely looks like a job that I would be happy to pay someone to do. I especially appreciate the video because I now understand the work and the risk involved and it will make parting with my pennies at the garage much more palatable
Me too, it is one of those things best left to a mechanic. I don't have a lift so I would be relying on a floor jack. That is not such a big deal though. I would rather leave the spring compression to a mechanic just because it can be very dangerous.
I've changed my struts before and need to change them again. I rented these compressors before but stopped short of completing the job because I had them so cranked down yet the spring still wouldn't come loose from the assembly and that scared the purple twinkies out of me, I took the compressors off. So what I wound up doing, I'm doing again going and take the entire assembly's along with the new struts to a mechanic for them to swap out. Should be less than $50. It was $25 last time but I doubt I'll get off that inexpensively this time but still better than an accident.
about $1000 now. would be my guess. Including parts, alignment, etc. I paid $700 10 years ago. Of course, kind of rip-off from my end, but I did not have to messed with those coil springs and renting the tools.
@@chrisperrien7055 yeah that's about how much it would be for the complete job parts included. In my case, I'm ordering the parts from Rock Auto then taking my struts off my truck myself and taking the new parts along with the old struts assembly to a shop for them to swap the new parts onto my existing coils. Then I'll install the newly assembled parts back onto my truck myself. I ordered KYB struts, coil mount and polyurethane insulators so between those parts and the shop work to basically compress the springs for me disassemble//reassemble, the whole thing will cost me about $220 - $250.
Also you're way better off using an impact to tighten these. What you're worried about is making them slip. But you're gonna turn a ratchet with a lot of force in the direction that might cause them to slip. The impact does a much better job of turning the screw without putting sideways force on the clamp.
I’m assuming your not in Michigan, not one of those bolts/nut would of came loose
#1: Great spelling of the last name.
#2: You're absolutely correct.
Michigan, Wisconsin, or Minnesota.
Ahhhhh you guys forgot Illinois
@@leahcimthgirw3163 awe hell!!! I shoulda known better! I was born in northern Illinois!!! Sorry!
Ohio too....
Loved your video. Just "survived" my rookie experience. Rear struts were a breeze, the front ones required several attempts to get everything right. Thanks for the tips!
Fine. That was anticlimactic. Back to RUclips to watch people maiming themselves with spring compressor tools....😜 Glad you're still 10/10/1 and 2 eyes after that job!
I've used these things in my garage changing out springs and struts in my old outback. They're dangerous for sure, but as long as you work safely (keeping the ends away from your face or other people) things will eventually get there. I 100% agree that it's worth just taking them out and to a shop because those spring compressors are just awful to use in general.
First time I used these, was doing rear springs on my S5 and if you’ve ever done that job on a B8 platform Audi, you know how tight it is in there. Had no issue, didn’t even think about dying and I had that at a pretty good angle too lol
I have a B8 S4 and EVERYTHING is tight on these cars.
Having done this job on numerous occasions, yes, I was highly entertained watching you do it.🤣
I’ve made a lot of money using those. I support the strut in a vice, keep the threaded rods lubricated and use my impact wrench a little on each side. I have a tremendous amount of respect for a compressed coil spring. Nowadays, I use the wall mounted spring compressor more often, mostly because it’s close to my work area.
To make it easier to compress and safer, attach the spring compressors on less coils of the spring. 2 full coils in-between is plenty. Thus you are only compressing 4 coils together instead of the 7+ which means less built up energy if they were to slip off, and less wrenching down to get similar compression. Working without a lift, this method can help of strut removal as well to have more room pulling the strut off the car with spring compressors already attached. If you cannot get the vehicle far enough off ground for the control arm to drop, the uncompressed strut assembly is impossible to remove. After compressing the spring still attached to strut assembly, remove top nuts, then bottom strut bolts. Then strut shocks can be pushed back in by hand to shorten enough for clearance to remove from vehicle, as you will no longer have the spring force pushing back the shock which... Shock absorbers force is a lot less than you'd expect lol. I use 3 compressors, and a safety cable tied just incase something slips when removing the strut this way. Smashed fingers, and a busted face will be avoided! Less coils compressed and the spring will act more like a punching force if it slips, and not go crazy flying as it will when full spring is compressed.
I had one pop of while under compression, stung like hell, hit hand, luckily didn't break anything and pins on other side held, but did slightly bow.
Video titled "Heres why you should never mess with a Spring Compressor" but never actually shows us why we should never mess with a spring compressor, just does everything right. Wild. If anything, this video should be titled "Why This Spring Compressor is so Safe and easy, even a Non-Professional can use it!"
Use 2 sets, use 3 compressors at a time, use the fourth if you need to reposition. As long as the pin is in place you will be fine. Spring can't go anywhere if the spring is locked in. I've been using them for years.
More distributed tension & the redundancy of the extra compressors is a good thing. Just takes longer, but it’s a small investment for piece of mind.
" As long as the pin is in place you will be fine. Spring can't go anywhere" Correct!
Good job. That's a lot improved spring compressor than I've been using.
One thing I would add as for safety. Always work perpendicular to the spring. If something goes wrong, it won´t shoot tools or strut parts or itself at you as easily.
That is what I do and it makes me feel much safer.
I was particularly stupid when changing a spring on my son's car a few years ago. Long story short, I over-compressed the spring. It came off the compressors and hit me full force in the face around my left eye!!!! It didn't knock me out or anything but I initially suffered tunnel vision. Eventually that cleared but I will forever have bubbles floating round inside my eye which affects vision and will never go away.
If you're using these things be very careful. Maybe worth using ratchet straps with them as an extra precaution.
Yeah, if you look at the lack of thickness of material on the claws for the spring compressor, you'll understand why it is called the "widowmaker." Most spring compressors in shops are wall-mounted with a blast shield in case it goes wrong.
its called the widowmaker because of the tools tendancy to slip off of a spring during compression / decompression of a spring, usually because impact tools are used, not very often these break, the thickness is pleanty on the tool. Most shop compressors are bolted to the floor and have a small cage (which is more just a thick wire, like a fence) and a chain for protection, if the chain is even still attached, not a blast shield and will likely not protect a mechanic, just slows the spring so its hopefully not as lethal. idk where youve seen one with a blast shield but ive not seen one even in main dealer workshops where they could afford such tools.
@@itzbilly1187 this tool can't even slip off the spring because of the pins... It's plenty safe if used properly
I've never had an issue with those spring compressors. I've used them on a lot of jobs. One was helping a friend switch out to lowering springs cause the previous owner cut the springs. That was a bit sketchy taking apart
Agree with everything, adding that I never go steel to steel, I always put a wrap of medium Emery cloth around the contact points, never had one slip since, and it protects the coating on the spring from damage !
It's actually much more nerve stretching compressing a new spring from its fully relaxed state.
Thanks, about to do this this evening and this sound like a good idea.
@@philipsquire9056 Take great care Phil, move slowly carefully and deliberately, keep everything square !
I once broke a little finger doing this job.
There is enormous energy stored in a compressed suspension spring.
@@nigelmitchell351 Got it done, no drama. Used emery cloth as you suggested.
@@philipsquire9056 Very pleased to hear it, being independent and doing jobs for yourself, not to mention the money saved makes it all very satisfying.
Bet it was a French car, front or rear spring ?
I’m a DIYer and as I commented/replied below to someone: I did this today for the front struts on a bmw 335xi. Got OEM struts. Used old springs. I was careful, I studied/researched my head off. It went well and now I feel like I climbed a mountain that was unclimbable. Such a good feeling. Now I’m gna do this on my car. Getting struts instead of quick strut assembly is MUCH less expensive. Just it’s not THAT death defying. Just don’t rush. Be logical. If I can do it you can. (SMA) lol harbor freight spring compressor was 30$. Shazam.
This reminds me of the time I did drum brakes on my jeep. It had small springs holding the drum in place. I moved it a little too much trying to compress one and that sob launched. It probably flew 1000 yards and I never saw it again. I was very glad it didn't hit me. I could imagine the danger of these springs being 100 times larger.
Same thing with M249 springs
best thing to do when replacing struts is to just replace them as an assembly if available. If the strut is worn out then the spring has probably lost some tension and isn't keeping vehicle at the correct ride height and should be replaced. Also on front struts the top bearing is most likely worn too. Assemblies just make the job so much easier.
Also, spring compressors really should have a label somewhere on it saying "THIS SIDE TOWARDS ENEMY".
Just dealt with this. 18 shops most with a machine to do this in the bqck dont want to mess with the springs anymore. I said fine give me the machine since your not using it anymore. Yes i was serious. But no i didnt get 1. I have whats in the video for $35. Worked great. And did 4 more sets of struts before quitting. Thanks for the video.