The intent was good but glazing a colour on a preshaded complementary just turns your shadows more dark and neutral. Both greenskin and IF yellow are vibrant, i personnaly would have chosen other colours for this task. I recommend you to take a look at more complex colour wheels (pigment colour wheels for exemple), then imagine a string that join your two colours (or more) with a knot in the middle. The colour you get when you mix them (the knot) is the result of the "weight" of each colour both intensity, coverage and amount. The more you put of one colour, the more you "pull the knot" to this colour, this is why Goobertown chose pink instead of purple for his yellow. The result is trending towards brown or orange hues and is much more vibrant. Complementaries "kill themselves" cause the result is usually desaturated. To pick an undertone, you'd better choose one of the two colours just next to the complementary, according to the warmth of the result you want. For exemple, for an ultramarine blue the opposite is a cadmium yellow, you can then choose a light yellow like hansa yellow to get a cold mix with a green cold shade or a naphtol scarlet for a purple warm shade, both more interesting than a grey shadow. Yet your video was interesting and quite useful, few painters think about combining colour theory and preshading. [Please excuse my mistakes as I am not English]
Thanks for taking the time to comment! That's really interesting to read. Like I said in the video, this was very much me playing around and seeing what works as I'm new to contrast and painting in this way - so if it works, it works and if not, I've had a good opportunity to learn! It certainly wasn't intended to be me 'teaching', just sharing my learning journey 🙂 I'll definitely keep playing around and look into changing up which colours I try. Thanks again!
Hey mate, that's really informative. Do you have an illustration to reference at all? I'd love to understand it better as I find zenithal looks a bit washed out so I've been trying darker shades from below. Cheers!
@@metalor696 I don't know if you are talking about choosing a colour next to the complementary or about the colour mixing theory but you could look at Goobertown hobbies "painting yellow" video the effect is stunning and he explains things quite well.
Can’t wait to try this. The video plus the comments are really useful, thanks everyone! Using the goobertown yellow tutorial for my imp fists but I’ve been looking for a way to take the same principles to another army. Plus a way to play around with desaturating the colours. Could the wraithbone also be playing a big part here? I tend to use a brighter white and the top highlights have a much more saturated yellow with the same yellow contrast paint. I could totally see someone using the wraithbone/purple for lamenters etc, it’s got a different feel to it 👍
Thanks! Definitely just basic understanding on my part, I've got lots to learn on the colour theory side, but had some really helpful comments and ideas 😁
Love this method myself. As you mentioned the spray cans did have a negative impact on smoothness though. Whites and off-whites are made with big chalky pigment and create a physical texture that is pretty noticeable especially zoomed in. Maybe fine for the tabletop, but if you are going for a best army award or display quality and you want to use this method as a base, than a airbrush would help out a lot.
Great video. This is something I've wanted to have a go at. I think a lot of people forget it that contrast (and speed) paints' transparency means you are essentially mixing colour on the model as if you were mixing it on the pallet. So for example I've seen people paint yellow contrast over a black, grey, white zenithal then get really confused when their shadows go green. But if you mix yellow and black on your pallet, guess what? You get green 😅. Also, a note on your colour wheel usage. You'll find you get better compliments not going straight across but a slight dogleg instead. Often straight contrasts are a little much and tend more towards neutralising to a grey when mixed directly. I'd love to see you try the yellow over either straight red or a warm orange red with zenithal. Anyway, hope all this comes across as the constructive criticism its intended to be.
Thanks very much, that's really useful information. Really appreciate you taking the time to comment 😃 it's been fun experimenting and finding things out with contrast. Definitely looking forward to trying more!
Also, you can switch to a "YRMBY" colour wheel, where the complements of CMY are RGB.... and vice versa. But yes, I'd also suggest shifting the "shadow" colours to get some added contrast. Mixing complementary colours is fine if you want to desaturate things, but that's not necessarily what you want. Fortunately, "purple" is a pretty good universal shadow colour, as purple itself can shift towards warm and cool with ease. Want something cooler? Use something more violet. Warmer? Start more towards magenta.
@@ArynCrinn excellent suggestions! When I paint in my normal style, I tend to use alot of purple in recesses etc, so can definitely appreciate the power of purple! Very versatile indeed.
Fun idea. I can tell you that I airbrush a light red (mixed white and red) for pre-shading orange and light brown for post-shading it, which completely avoids that disgusting transition that black under yellow and orange gives you. A purple-red under green flesh is also a classic, though best done in layers/traditional brush painting. I will say though that for speed, an airbrush is by far the most convenient for mostly one color models like marines or these orks that are mostly skin. It also makes these transitions (and priming) much simpler. Best purchase I ever made, for sure.
Lovely video mate, loved the explanation and including all the references throughout. :) I myself has recently started to experiment with contrast and am really impressed with some of the results that can be achieved when used alongside side other methods. Keep up the great work! :)
Yellow goes over magenta, not purple. You'll want to look at a CMYK color wheel instead of RBY wheel. And once there, you'll be looking at triads. You'll generally have a warm and cool option. Yellow over magenta, you get warm orange. Yellow over Cyan and you'll get a cool green. Happy painting.
I really like that look on your Imperial Fist.. I have painted a small tabletop force of "Fists" fro 40K over the last few years and have used many different methods, yours offers a much easier to complete option. Really like them, I've painted mine the 'Eavy Metal way.. the "wash over base" way, and "slap chop" before we called it that with a zenithal prime and ink/contrast. The complimentary colur zentihal gives a much nicer look than mine with a black base coat, as you mentioned it tends to leave your shadows really dark and black, which most natural shadow isn't.. Very good video... and as for the weather, we get that in the midlands as well 😉
I love the idea of this, but I don't like the splotchy look the rattlecan's zenithal give. Definitely interested in seeing this effect with airbrush zenithal highlights.
Hey man I just stumbled upon your channel. Loved your video, I'm just getting into speed paints myself so this really helps. So here's a like and a sub. And from one small channel to another I wish you the best on your Warhammer journey through RUclips 🙂
Fair comment! The black background and using a photo mode instead of video probably had something to do with that! I'll do my best to avoid as much of a mismatch next time. Thanks for commenting 🙂
I cannot emphasize the effectiveness of this method, i did a librarian that i base coated with purple, then sprayed a teal from above, then applied a drybrush of white. I applied AP speedpaint High Lord Blue and the model just pops.
@@MrLanzac in my defence, I just grabbed a load of pots from the shelf so I had some to try, so there was no particular intention of painting a marine, but I had one in the ole pile of potential!
What If you use warmer or brighter Versions of the Colour as a zenithal instead of Wraithbone and White? Would Like to see the effect with Contrast Paint with this
Great idea! Sounds like it would give a really strong, saturated look. Unfortunately I don't own an airbrush, but I guess it could always be drybrushed on
It's a tricky one! I think drybrushing can look good, but you also tend to get a bit of a grainy finish. But it's definitely something I'll try at some point. Thanks!
@@warhannam add a drop of water to your dry brush or have alittle wet pad and just dab the brush on it then add your color to it should help with that issue
Please adjust the audio volume, I had to crank up my volume to hear you during the speaking portion, then the music at the end was painfully loud. Keep working on the videos, you have good presentation, just need to practice the filiming and production.
Thanks alot for the feedback. In my latest vid, I've tried to bring the intro/outro more into line with the speaking portions, as it was also pointed out by another commenter. Hopefully it's a step in the right direction :)
The intent was good but glazing a colour on a preshaded complementary just turns your shadows more dark and neutral. Both greenskin and IF yellow are vibrant, i personnaly would have chosen other colours for this task. I recommend you to take a look at more complex colour wheels (pigment colour wheels for exemple), then imagine a string that join your two colours (or more) with a knot in the middle. The colour you get when you mix them (the knot) is the result of the "weight" of each colour both intensity, coverage and amount. The more you put of one colour, the more you "pull the knot" to this colour, this is why Goobertown chose pink instead of purple for his yellow. The result is trending towards brown or orange hues and is much more vibrant. Complementaries "kill themselves" cause the result is usually desaturated. To pick an undertone, you'd better choose one of the two colours just next to the complementary, according to the warmth of the result you want. For exemple, for an ultramarine blue the opposite is a cadmium yellow, you can then choose a light yellow like hansa yellow to get a cold mix with a green cold shade or a naphtol scarlet for a purple warm shade, both more interesting than a grey shadow. Yet your video was interesting and quite useful, few painters think about combining colour theory and preshading. [Please excuse my mistakes as I am not English]
Thanks for taking the time to comment! That's really interesting to read. Like I said in the video, this was very much me playing around and seeing what works as I'm new to contrast and painting in this way - so if it works, it works and if not, I've had a good opportunity to learn! It certainly wasn't intended to be me 'teaching', just sharing my learning journey 🙂
I'll definitely keep playing around and look into changing up which colours I try.
Thanks again!
Hey mate, that's really informative. Do you have an illustration to reference at all? I'd love to understand it better as I find zenithal looks a bit washed out so I've been trying darker shades from below. Cheers!
@@metalor696 I don't know if you are talking about choosing a colour next to the complementary or about the colour mixing theory but you could look at Goobertown hobbies "painting yellow" video the effect is stunning and he explains things quite well.
@@lagachedamien117 thanks mate! I gave it a watch, was really helpful . You're a champion 💪
Can’t wait to try this. The video plus the comments are really useful, thanks everyone!
Using the goobertown yellow tutorial for my imp fists but I’ve been looking for a way to take the same principles to another army. Plus a way to play around with desaturating the colours.
Could the wraithbone also be playing a big part here? I tend to use a brighter white and the top highlights have a much more saturated yellow with the same yellow contrast paint.
I could totally see someone using the wraithbone/purple for lamenters etc, it’s got a different feel to it 👍
How you explained the color wheel and complimentary colors really made it all click for me. Thanks for sharing :D
Thanks! Definitely just basic understanding on my part, I've got lots to learn on the colour theory side, but had some really helpful comments and ideas 😁
Thanks a lot for these good tips that could help our speedpaint methods 👍
Love this method myself. As you mentioned the spray cans did have a negative impact on smoothness though. Whites and off-whites are made with big chalky pigment and create a physical texture that is pretty noticeable especially zoomed in. Maybe fine for the tabletop, but if you are going for a best army award or display quality and you want to use this method as a base, than a airbrush would help out a lot.
Definitely. Not helped by appalling spraying conditions either, but definitely just fun to experiment!
Great video. This is something I've wanted to have a go at. I think a lot of people forget it that contrast (and speed) paints' transparency means you are essentially mixing colour on the model as if you were mixing it on the pallet. So for example I've seen people paint yellow contrast over a black, grey, white zenithal then get really confused when their shadows go green. But if you mix yellow and black on your pallet, guess what? You get green 😅. Also, a note on your colour wheel usage. You'll find you get better compliments not going straight across but a slight dogleg instead. Often straight contrasts are a little much and tend more towards neutralising to a grey when mixed directly. I'd love to see you try the yellow over either straight red or a warm orange red with zenithal. Anyway, hope all this comes across as the constructive criticism its intended to be.
Thanks very much, that's really useful information. Really appreciate you taking the time to comment 😃 it's been fun experimenting and finding things out with contrast. Definitely looking forward to trying more!
Also, you can switch to a "YRMBY" colour wheel, where the complements of CMY are RGB.... and vice versa.
But yes, I'd also suggest shifting the "shadow" colours to get some added contrast. Mixing complementary colours is fine if you want to desaturate things, but that's not necessarily what you want.
Fortunately, "purple" is a pretty good universal shadow colour, as purple itself can shift towards warm and cool with ease. Want something cooler? Use something more violet. Warmer? Start more towards magenta.
@@ArynCrinn excellent suggestions! When I paint in my normal style, I tend to use alot of purple in recesses etc, so can definitely appreciate the power of purple! Very versatile indeed.
Fun idea.
I can tell you that I airbrush a light red (mixed white and red) for pre-shading orange and light brown for post-shading it, which completely avoids that disgusting transition that black under yellow and orange gives you.
A purple-red under green flesh is also a classic, though best done in layers/traditional brush painting.
I will say though that for speed, an airbrush is by far the most convenient for mostly one color models like marines or these orks that are mostly skin.
It also makes these transitions (and priming) much simpler.
Best purchase I ever made, for sure.
Great advice, thanks!
This is a great idea to try. I am definitely going to test this out on my future minis
Lovely video mate, loved the explanation and including all the references throughout. :)
I myself has recently started to experiment with contrast and am really impressed with some of the results that can be achieved when used alongside side other methods.
Keep up the great work! :)
Cheers Alex! I think there's alot of potential
Yellow goes over magenta, not purple. You'll want to look at a CMYK color wheel instead of RBY wheel. And once there, you'll be looking at triads. You'll generally have a warm and cool option. Yellow over magenta, you get warm orange. Yellow over Cyan and you'll get a cool green.
Happy painting.
Ah ha so i wasnt the only one who attempted some spraying of minis outside on this lovely British day.
Haha! I normally wouldn't, but I was desperate to try out the paints 😂
I really like that look on your Imperial Fist.. I have painted a small tabletop force of "Fists" fro 40K over the last few years and have used many different methods, yours offers a much easier to complete option. Really like them, I've painted mine the 'Eavy Metal way.. the "wash over base" way, and "slap chop" before we called it that with a zenithal prime and ink/contrast. The complimentary colur zentihal gives a much nicer look than mine with a black base coat, as you mentioned it tends to leave your shadows really dark and black, which most natural shadow isn't..
Very good video... and as for the weather, we get that in the midlands as well 😉
Thanks Simon! Wow, a whole army of yellow, you brave man!! 😁
@@warhannam nope, just stupid... 👍
I can't believe I've never seen anyone try this before. Good experiment.
Have you watched the post credits..?
Email received and replied to 😁 congrats!
I love the idea of this, but I don't like the splotchy look the rattlecan's zenithal give. Definitely interested in seeing this effect with airbrush zenithal highlights.
Hey man I just stumbled upon your channel. Loved your video, I'm just getting into speed paints myself so this really helps. So here's a like and a sub. And from one small channel to another I wish you the best on your Warhammer journey through RUclips 🙂
Thanks very much! I'll be sure to check out your content and return the favour 😁
@@warhannam Thank you good sir!
It's becoming clear that contrast/speedpaint type paint over a gradient base - whether complimentary colors or not - is the way to go.
The models in the video look totally different from those in the pictures. Anyway, thanks for the experiment, it was very useful for me :)
Fair comment! The black background and using a photo mode instead of video probably had something to do with that! I'll do my best to avoid as much of a mismatch next time. Thanks for commenting 🙂
Thanks. I would be interested to see this with an attempt at making a stronger colour (hue) through multiple over coats or stronger undercoats
That's a really good idea! Thanks
I like how we only talk about color wheel when its about color theory when it's more complex that just complementary colors
Definitely. It's an area I'm absolutely keen to learn more about!
As an inquisitor from the ordo hereticus I can NEVER overlook heresy. Burn heretic burn 🔥
I cannot emphasize the effectiveness of this method, i did a librarian that i base coated with purple, then sprayed a teal from above, then applied a drybrush of white. I applied AP speedpaint High Lord Blue and the model just pops.
Marco Frisioni on not just mecha NJM cover this type of work in great depth on his channel too.
I'll be sure to check that out!
I think using one of the newer yellows would’ve given you an even better result
I do have Ironjawz, which is a little muddier, but I have heard good things about imperial fist (I should have guessed that one would work) 😆
@@warhannam isn’t that how it usually works out!? lol
@@MrLanzac in my defence, I just grabbed a load of pots from the shelf so I had some to try, so there was no particular intention of painting a marine, but I had one in the ole pile of potential!
Interesting vid thanks! Big up to the Bens at Bonehead:)
Thanks alot! Absolutely, love those guys! 😃
What If you use warmer or brighter Versions of the Colour as a zenithal instead of Wraithbone and White? Would Like to see the effect with Contrast Paint with this
Great idea! Sounds like it would give a really strong, saturated look. Unfortunately I don't own an airbrush, but I guess it could always be drybrushed on
i know you used spray cans for the white etc why not try dry brushing it instead you would get a smoother finish
It's a tricky one! I think drybrushing can look good, but you also tend to get a bit of a grainy finish. But it's definitely something I'll try at some point. Thanks!
@@warhannam add a drop of water to your dry brush or have alittle wet pad and just dab the brush on it then add your color to it should help with that issue
@@warhannam or you can try a texture pallet vs tissue paper when you remove the color to start either way should help
Excellent thank you! I'll have a play around. Great suggestions
Please adjust the audio volume, I had to crank up my volume to hear you during the speaking portion, then the music at the end was painfully loud. Keep working on the videos, you have good presentation, just need to practice the filiming and production.
Thanks alot for the feedback. In my latest vid, I've tried to bring the intro/outro more into line with the speaking portions, as it was also pointed out by another commenter. Hopefully it's a step in the right direction :)
a yellow ultramarine, this feels like heresy haha
It absolutely is 😆