The oil feed hole in the block has a hole with threads but no bolt in it and I drilled it out like people have been saying but I’ve drilled like 3 inches in and still no oil coming out when cranking ,should I go farther ?
I crashed the car about a month after making this video and had to sell all the parts to pay for the repairs, so I never got around to doing it, sorry.
Is it worth turboing an NA? I got myself a really clean r34 and am thinking about turboing it, not sure if it's worth it or not. I just want something reliable with a bit of speed.
I don't think it's worth it since the RB25DE-NEO makes 200hp and 255nm which is really good power even by today - it matches the Toyota GT86/Subaru BRZ. I have thought about selling the turbo kit since I only expect an increase of 25% and in New Zealand you have to pay to get it road legal.
It was a naturally aspirated engine so I used the hoses supplied with the turbo kit. The blanking plates on the block just need to be drilled with the right tap size to fit the nipple flange.
TheViperDawg it's n/a so there will be almost no difference. Under the air filter is a hole for the intercooler piping so cold air comes in through there.
Hi Dom, I have an R34 GT4 with the RB25DE Neo, I'm doing the same turbo conversion as you. is there any chance you can do a better video of where to drill/tap and connect the lines when you do it. Basically just a close up of the locations? Good work mate keep it up👍🏼
Sellek83 I ended up scrapping the conversion since the costs outweighed the benefits (insurance, compliance for ~25% more power). The oil drain is a blank just after the engine mount at the bottom (before the 2 small screw holes). The feed is a slightly smaller blank directly above the drain between the gold circles.
@@domsdriveway1282 well, I’m going to run an air cooled turbo then, I don’t plan on pushing it too hard, but will probably use a turbo that can surpass the 7-10psi limit for the blocks and run it straight wastegated. So I’d be losing quite a bit of the usable boost on the turbo, but it would have room to grow as well
If you just fit a regular banjo bolt the oil pressure will be too high and you'll blow your turbo seals. www.nissanexa.com/archive/index.php/t-25401.html
@@ossyali207 The banjo bolt for the turbo oil feed needs to be a specific size of 0.8mm. You can fit a regular banjo bolt but the gallery is too big and allows too much oil to pass causing problems with the turbo. Blowing turbo seals, excessive smoke etc.
@@dylanjoseph6010 I ran out of funds. It most likely would have needed a tune to get it running reliably, and at the end of it I would have to pay to get it tested and certified.
Great info .Thx for vid .Robbbert from Melbourne Australia.
The oil feed hole in the block has a hole with threads but no bolt in it and I drilled it out like people have been saying but I’ve drilled like 3 inches in and still no oil coming out when
cranking ,should I go farther ?
I crashed the car about a month after making this video and had to sell all the parts to pay for the repairs, so I never got around to doing it, sorry.
Is it worth turboing an NA? I got myself a really clean r34 and am thinking about turboing it, not sure if it's worth it or not. I just want something reliable with a bit of speed.
I don't think it's worth it since the RB25DE-NEO makes 200hp and 255nm which is really good power even by today - it matches the Toyota GT86/Subaru BRZ. I have thought about selling the turbo kit since I only expect an increase of 25% and in New Zealand you have to pay to get it road legal.
What size oil and water lines did you use (AN)??
It was a naturally aspirated engine so I used the hoses supplied with the turbo kit. The blanking plates on the block just need to be drilled with the right tap size to fit the nipple flange.
So you said you “scrapped the conversion” in one of your comments... so what did you do?
Left it naturally aspirated. Its still 200hp 👌
Hey bro, thanks for the response... how come you didnt pull throu with it?
What’s the thread pitch for the water banjo bolts?
Your air intake is not closed off by an insulation. Meaning its intaking hot air after the radiator.. Lovely...
TheViperDawg it's n/a so there will be almost no difference. Under the air filter is a hole for the intercooler piping so cold air comes in through there.
Hi Dom, I have an R34 GT4 with the RB25DE Neo, I'm doing the same turbo conversion as you. is there any chance you can do a better video of where to drill/tap and connect the lines when you do it. Basically just a close up of the locations?
Good work mate keep it up👍🏼
Sellek83 I ended up scrapping the conversion since the costs outweighed the benefits (insurance, compliance for ~25% more power). The oil drain is a blank just after the engine mount at the bottom (before the 2 small screw holes). The feed is a slightly smaller blank directly above the drain between the gold circles.
Dom's Driveway Do you still have the manual turbo ecu? Is it for sale, I cant find one anywhere?
Theoretically if I get an air cooled turbo, I won’t have to run water lines, correct?
That's correct. Theoretically I could run this turbo on low boost without coolant, but I'd run the risk of burning it.
@@domsdriveway1282 well, I’m going to run an air cooled turbo then, I don’t plan on pushing it too hard, but will probably use a turbo that can surpass the 7-10psi limit for the blocks and run it straight wastegated. So I’d be losing quite a bit of the usable boost on the turbo, but it would have room to grow as well
@@domsdriveway1282 an I appreciate the reply.
Bro can you use S1 vtc oil drain for turbo oil drain? Also what's the bolt under the water feed. Why can't you use that instead of drilling
Don't forget the 0.8mm oil feed restrictor or you'll burn through oil and it will smoke like crazy.
misterphiluk what is this oil feed restrictor you speak of?
If you just fit a regular banjo bolt the oil pressure will be too high and you'll blow your turbo seals.
www.nissanexa.com/archive/index.php/t-25401.html
I know this is a long shot and an this is an old post but do you have some more info on this? As I believe I'm having the same issue.
@@ossyali207 The banjo bolt for the turbo oil feed needs to be a specific size of 0.8mm. You can fit a regular banjo bolt but the gallery is too big and allows too much oil to pass causing problems with the turbo. Blowing turbo seals, excessive smoke etc.
What ecu are you running for this setup
Hitachi A56-J63. Factory RB25DET Neo ECU. They can be chip-tuned.
So did you end up engine swapping?
Nope, but I did engine swap a bike
Hey bro thanks for the response, how come you didnt do it? I have a r34 2door NA too.... looking to try pull this off
@@dylanjoseph6010 I ran out of funds. It most likely would have needed a tune to get it running reliably, and at the end of it I would have to pay to get it tested and certified.
Low mount??
Possibly. This was close to a decade ago and I would have just used the exhaust headers off a factory DET
Green sticker afm is not for the dets pink is
My bad bro
Late to reply, but it's actually for series 1 motors, turbo or not. Pink is for series 2 motors, so the late 33's and 34's