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I am not sure since I only have the manual, but you could ask at alfaworkshop.co.uk - the guy has been very helpful when I search for parts

I got the tools from alfaworkshop.co.uk and followed the procedures from multiple Alfa Romeo forums. The 4C forums have a lot of good info

Sorry for the late reply - was on holiday in Japan. There is a separate kit for the cam lock tools - they bolt on where the blanking plate on the exhaust side sits, and where the steering vacuum pump on the intake side sits. They have unique shapes so will only fit when the cams are at the correct rotation.

@@domsdriveway1282 Thanks bro

I did it a couple times to be safe. Lock tools in, tighten, lock tools out, rotate, lock tools back in. Plus an extra time to get the right camera shots. I had many attempts at doing the angle torque since the angle gauge is a bit rubbish/cheap.

@@domsdriveway1282 nice! have you got any idea what'd be causing my issue with the exhaust cam being out of phase after rotating the engine over? Some people on the forums have suggested I need to apply counter torque to the pulley to prevent it rotating on the shaft whilst torqueing down

@@TheBeansta On this engine I don't know, but on the 156 JTS, I also experienced this. On that it was a bit of a faff with deliberately misaligning a tooth and playing with tension and 10 revolutions until it came right. Took a few tries. Then recheck after 500 miles. Mine kept perfect timing to within 1/10th degree of TDC. But I use a dial gauge in the bore with an extender that screws into the spark plug hole. There is a trick with a piece of three core household electrical cable. You cut a few of inches and use it as a soft space between the belt and the pulley - then turn the engine by hand. It can advance one tooth at a time by creating a gap that moves with rotation. Obviously remove the wire afterwards lol. You only use the diameter of the wire ie hold it like you are pointing it at 90 degrees to the sprocket. It should never be around the sprocket or you will mess it all up. There's a youtube video somewhere.

@@doug774 it does since it's all OEM parts.

@@mohapimoloi9457 I haven't swapped the solenoids, so unfortunately I don't, sorry.

I believe it was a 30mm socket. It was bigger than what my SidChrome toolkit had, and one of the biggest in my SuperCheap Auto kit.

Thanks. I ended up getting a 30mm one from bunnings.

I always worry about the rear door handles. The Honda Euro (FN gen) have similar rear handles that often break.

Part of the reason of the review was that the previous owner wants to buy it back - he told me about his plans to upgrade to the Veloce seats and steering wheel, so now I'll keep an eye out for those parts.

​@@domsdriveway1282The standard seats are part leather and alcantara. They're really nice, but personally, I prefer my full leather ones

It was one of the first things I did after the short-shifter kit. The short shifter made the gear changes feel more crunchy, so it was almost a requirement but I have thought of getting the engine gearbox reconditioned. If only my other car wasn't eating my funds getting a V8.

Do you know if that would apply to the TCT gearbox? Any idea on time period if the mileage is lower. Thanks

@@tino5801 Yeah, I imagine so. There would be no harm in changing the gearbox oil more often. I'm planning on changing this oil every 50,000. It's an easier job than changing transmission oil and filter. The only difficult bit is having the tools. The filler plug takes a 12mm hex key. It's right at the back of the engine and you need a ratchet set with an angle extension and a few other extension bars to get to it. You'd also need a long tube to get the oil into the hole (the gear oil I bought came with one which was nice). The drain plug also takes a 12mm hex key and it's easy to get to. But there's not enough space in front of it to fit a socket set to it. I bought a 12mm allen key, cut off a piece of it, and used that with a spanner to take it out.

Thanks for the info! 🙏​@@astonw

Yeah i already did, with Fuchs Titan Sintofluid FE 75W. It did not help much tho. I bought my 2012 QV with 150000km on the odo. Only 1st and 2nd gear changes are crunchy, especially when cold. I test drove 3 QVs and the one i bought was in the best condition, but the gearbox not so much. One of them was from 2011, the gear change was really smooth. You could put it in 1st with 2 fingers while rolling with 20kmh, i wonder if that one already had the improved/upgraded synchros?! I have replaced dot4 clutch fluid as well. The c635 gearbox is known for the bad syncros of the 1st and 2nd gear. I plan to do a overhaul on mine when the clutch needs a replacement, but the thing is: when?😂

Sorry to hear that. I have heard a few bad stories, but not many - especially not compared to other sports cars. I believe Jay Emm (UK youtuber) had a bad one as well, but these are very common in my neighbourhood and very uncommon in the wrecker's.

Will do once I get around to it. It is currently my daily driver so I'll have to organise something so I can get it off the road for a few days.

@@travisalderson9955 it would be - they sold it as the VT250F in NZ, and sold the naked version as the VTR. The Japanese model is the FG.

The locking tools will keep them at the correct angle since they align the camshafts, not the gear wheels. Normally there aren't markings on the gears unless a mechanic has replaced the belt in the past without the locking tools. You could get the cams into the correct position by lining up the camshafts at the rear of the engine with the positions that the locking tools leave the cams, but they could end up 180 degrees out, and you also need to align the crankshaft. I'd recommend buying all the locking tools for your situation.

@@domsdriveway1282 its essential what i ended up doing, got the locking tools, camshafts where in correct position, but crankshaft wast out by 1 or 2 teeth, got the belt out set crank to correct position according to crankshaft locking tool and everything is working fine. Side note did you have to replace your vacuum pump seal after reassembling everything because mine started to leak oil after. Also thanks for the vid it helped me a lot

I have heard about a CD that you can get that will translate thtm, but it's not cheap, and isn't guaranteed to work.

You might need to check with an OBDII scanner in case removing it threw any codes, but if you're unsure then you can disconnect the battery and hold the brake pedal for a few seconds and then re-connect the battery to do a hard-reset.

It is very good. 157kW and 200,000km on the odometer with only one issue: the crank sensor needed to be replaced.

@@domsdriveway1282 nice i want to buy used one with 174000km on it. but whoever I ask about the durability and reliability of the engine, no one knows anything to tell... before I had a MiTo 1.3 which was lightly tuned and served me for 5 years, so now I'm looking for an ideal replacement. Thank you

@@domsdriveway1282 And one more question do you have any advice does I need to look something special on qv (for example timings, turbo etc) i mean for some factory bad part.

There was a guide on the Alfa Romeo forums that had torque settings for most engine bolts. So far I've done a couple thousand Km with no issue.

The camshafts stay in place with locking tools. The gears are timed using the belt at maximum tension, then locked to the camshafts with a very tight tension.

In the city I annoyed everyone around me by only using EV mode to not use fuel, so about 0L/100km until the engine kicks in. Combined was around 5L/100Km, while my 1.8L Corolla (not hybrid) was getting 5.7L highway.

How does it climb hills?

​@shaqhall6883 perfectly without any resistance

@@shaqhall6883very bad and lazy

The car is at a point where I like it, but if anything I'd invest in some new tyres (has Pirelli front, Continental rear due to a flat), and maybe a "stage" tune at a Euro garage.

In theory it is easier than other cars - not so much when the tensioner is bolted in with more than twice the torque of the wheel bolts.

It's like Hiroshima - not that I'm in Japan...

They are the same airbag with different logos on them

@@domsdriveway1282 Thank you so much for the reply much appreciated

Haan bhai ye to hai

Possibly. This was close to a decade ago and I would have just used the exhaust headers off a factory DET

Only slightly, but you get a more clunky feel from the shifter linkages (4H says it's a desirable side-effect).

Thanks! It was about 10 years ago that I took the photos - using a Nikon F80 and Kodak Gold film