Great video man. I was surprised. So I’m at about the same spot as you are here in the video. I’m trying to remove things and consolidate space so I have room to put the ignition box (may go under the passenger seat) and the catch tank setup. I’d like to consolidate all the vacuum hoses to just a few total, as it’s like spaghetti in there. As for the purge canister, I’m wondering what the adverse effects would be with leaving it. I’m going supercharged, so if I leave the purge valve hooked up, if the pcm would even control it correctly. But if I hook it to straight manifold vacuum with a check valve, then it would likely implode the tank from vacuum suck down (it can happen - newer Focuses). So nowadays charcoal canisters are out just before vent to atmosphere valves that are normally open. The hose off the end of them goes up into the body around the fuel tank so any vapors stay trapped up there and you don’t smell them. A differential vent tube with the little valve at the end routed up into the body around the fuel tank may be something I try to see if it prevents fuel odor but allows tank pressure to vent, like when you fill the tank. The engine bay in these things triggers my ocd - I like minimal/no clutter.
I’m the same way it has a billion vacuum lines going all over the place and I hate it!! And so I have an 03/04 cobra tank from on3 performance and the way I’m going to vent it is from the fuel tank vapor valve on top of the tank into the filler tube and that is supposed to vent it properly so that I can fill it with gas like you were saying. And right now for the catch can is I’m just running two breathers and later on I will fab a catch can system. I don’t know where to put it either since their is absolutely no space! I was thinking about relocating the battery so I have a little more room and I could potentially mount the can there and the ignition box. Are you on a stand-alone or are you using a chip or stock pcm ? Yea the efi systems are messy it honestly bothers me too. I think one day I’ll try to do a dedicated wire tuck.
So I reread your post and I got confused lol I thought you were talking about the vacuum reservoir. But with the purge valve I’m just getting rid of mine with the cobra tank and venting the tank with the vapor valve back into the filler tube so it can vent while I’m filling the car up. I read like you did about to many problems with trying to keep the vacuum canister with boosted applications and since I’m running a stand-alone system I don’t think it would even work with the purge valve. And that’s why I just voted to delete it completely and just try to figure out a better way to vent it with the new cobra tank.
iAmChazHaynes Yo I sent you a FB request. So I’ll look into doing the filler tube route for the vent. I’m actually building for a customer, he’s running pcm with a chip. He’s also keeping all accessories, even cruise control, so real estate under the hood doesn’t really exist.
With you solenoids unplugged, how does it effect the computer? I've done an egr and smog delete and was trying to delete the vacuum solenoids yet keep hvac vacuum
Are you running AC? I was just curious why you didn't cap off the EGR vacuum under the upper intake and just use the AC check valve mounted on the firewall to supply vacuum to that vacuum ball in the fender?
How did you clear the codes and or stop computer from messing with timing I’m finished build my 302 and did maf conversion with a9L all going smooth but the computer didn’t like the egr missing and is throwing codes and messing with its timing I believe
I have a 5.0 Cobra engine in my 1989 short box f150 4x4. It had a super charger at one point. I’m not sure if it had a tune for that or not. I still need to locate the ECU. I’ll be following this guide for sure.
Tbi….throttle body injection….go with the ace’s efi….im running one on my sons 289 in his ‘67 mustang….currentley building a roller cam 302 for it with all kinds of goodies cause the 289 is tired with its whooping 200hp
But yeah ace’s killshot…you can pick one up for around $900 which is wayyy cheaper than the holley sniper which sucks cause the ecu is in the throttle body that sits on top of a hot vibrating engine….the aces one is remotely mounted and can be mounted inside the car to keep it safe and cool!!!! Night and day difference compared to the holley 4bbl that was on the car before
Hey buddy where you said connecting the check valve into intake... Do I need that installed and with out it would run well like shit ??? Trying figure my problem out
Well if it’s not connected is it at least capped off? And it shouldn’t matter because all that line does is go to a vacuum reservoir for your HVAC stuff. If you want DM me on Instagram and I can talk more in depth about it if you wnat
What was the reason for keeping the vacuum canister and keeping it hooked up the the intake…if I’m correct by looking at the vacuum diagram it only serves the purpose of all the smog stuff you removed and nothing else. Couldn’t you just have removed the line as well since it isn’t hooked up to anything anymore?
The canister controls the HVAC system so that’s why I kept it connected. I’d have to re look at that diagram again but from what I understood I needed that to keep all the HVAC equipment working and all my stuff works lol but I’ll double check myself
So the little water tubes that go through the spacer you can cap off the line on the heater tube and manifold with just some caps from autozone with a little hose clamp And you can use those little caps to block the spacer off too. And I would keep the spacer cause you take it apart the throttle body doesn’t fit right and the IAC won’t fit without the spacer.
Thanks for the video brah. I’m doing this same process on my car. All this stuff is so ugly in there and useless. I’m in NH so no laws up here. My question is what’s the vacuum canister in the fenders purpose? The one that looks like a ball.
That is a vacuum canister that sort of saves vacuum in case the system runs low on vacuum. You don't necessarily need it unless you have a huge cam that doesn't make good vacuum but it does help your hvac system work alot better since it all runs on vacuum.
I would just use vacuum caps for the throttle body and the lines that use to connect to it autozone has coolant rated caps you can stick on there. Actually I would probably use those caps for everything lol
@@iamchazhaynes7074 did I see you connect the hose from the black tube right into the back hose on the EGR valve and I don't have the block off plate yet it's on its way but I must have missed something to cap off and I haven't moved the coolant lines yet another question I have is it better to run a shorter belt or get the idle pulley I put the idle pulley on today with the stock belt and the car felt different slower almost I'm not sure but again I'm not sure what I missed it's my first mustang
It smells pretty gassy! But to be fair my car smelled really bad before I tore it off so I’m kind of a bad example 😅 I’ve heard some say it smells fine and some say it’s horrible 🤷🏼♂️ but thank you!
You don’t have to cut ! The guy who had worked on my car just cut them out cause he’s a doof. They will unscrew and then you can buy head plugs to screw in and plug them up.
@@iamchazhaynes7074 appreciate the reply! I'm talking about the part that connects to the H-pipe. I'm not 100% sure what its actually called but I see people on forums call em air tubes.
if you are keeping the stock style manifold I would keep the spacer because the throttle cable bracket bolts to it so you need it for that. You can buy solid spacers with no EGR passages when you upgrade your throttle body. But I wouldn’t buy one until you upgrade 😁 but you definitely need to keep it
Hahaha exactly 😂 I’ve heard of some people having no smell when they remove it and I’ve heard of others that say they just excrete fuel 😂 I’m in the middle it wasn’t so noticeable when I removed mine but my canister had gone bad anyways so I’m not a good example 🤷🏼♂️ lol
Well I ended up using a standalone ecu so I never had to deal with the check engine light 😅 but I heard if you plug a resistor into the egr plug it will keep the light off. Sorry I’m not more help with that. I didn’t do much research into the check engine light because I knew I wouldn’t have to deal with it myself. But thank you for the support ! It helps me tremendously!! 😁
ima be doing the same thing cuz my vac lines wasnt hooked up right and brittle.. having drivability issues i capped off alll the emissions but the back off the heads and the smog pump pipe.. but like you said race car stuff so needs to be gone anyways lol
Mine were the exact same way just brittle and and destroyed so I got rid of it 🤷🏼♂️ don’t need emissions for a racecar hahaha some guys get so angry when you say you’re getting rid of it for some reason though 😂 the only thing that’s bad is it smells like gas since my gas tank isn’t vented properly but so the charcoal canister would be the only thing but you can vent the gas tank other ways or get a cobra tank like I’m doing and vent it that way 😁
@@iamchazhaynes7074 ngl my doesnt smell too bad like everybody claim.. i do have my gas tank to charcoal canister line still on and taped underneath but i can tell the difference in power but only cuz i prob had vac leaks lol
Oh nice! That will help! And it makes a difference even though it’s small even the little bit of power makes a difference! Haha but fixing the vacuum leaks probably helped a lot!! Haha
Should have just bought a dummy wheel in place for the smog pump super easy and to be fair I totally watch the entire video like I should have but great work anyways.
Ok, so this is for a track-only, “never driven on the street” application, right? B/C it’s a federal violation to remove or disable any emissions equipment that was part of the manufacturer’s original build.
These cars are getting too rare these days to rip apart and make race cars anymore. If you have an unmolested foxbody you should leave it. There are tons of hacked foxes out there to make race cars.
I totally agree with you! I’ve had this car since I was 15 and have been wrenching on it ever since. It’s never been perfect I’ve restored it and put a lot of time in it just to get it where it is, and I don’t plan on going full race car on it I just want a really nice street car.
Clearly, you don’t understand how the emissions controls work, nor do you understand engines. PCV kerps your engine oil healthy. That AIR pump keeps both the Oxygen sensor clean during cold starts, and keeps the catalytic converters from clogging. EGR lowers combustion temperatures, increases efficiency, and gives a small boost of power at part throttle. None of these systems cause a loss of power, but they do confuse certain people.
Almost lol even though it is practically nothing you’ll still gain about 1-2 hp from the smog pump delete which is really nothing but it’s something lol And plus I need mine out of the way to fit the On3 turbo for the car.
If you have any questions ask me here!
Great video man. I was surprised. So I’m at about the same spot as you are here in the video. I’m trying to remove things and consolidate space so I have room to put the ignition box (may go under the passenger seat) and the catch tank setup. I’d like to consolidate all the vacuum hoses to just a few total, as it’s like spaghetti in there. As for the purge canister, I’m wondering what the adverse effects would be with leaving it. I’m going supercharged, so if I leave the purge valve hooked up, if the pcm would even control it correctly. But if I hook it to straight manifold vacuum with a check valve, then it would likely implode the tank from vacuum suck down (it can happen - newer Focuses).
So nowadays charcoal canisters are out just before vent to atmosphere valves that are normally open. The hose off the end of them goes up into the body around the fuel tank so any vapors stay trapped up there and you don’t smell them. A differential vent tube with the little valve at the end routed up into the body around the fuel tank may be something I try to see if it prevents fuel odor but allows tank pressure to vent, like when you fill the tank.
The engine bay in these things triggers my ocd - I like minimal/no clutter.
I’m the same way it has a billion vacuum lines going all over the place and I hate it!! And so I have an 03/04 cobra tank from on3 performance and the way I’m going to vent it is from the fuel tank vapor valve on top of the tank into the filler tube and that is supposed to vent it properly so that I can fill it with gas like you were saying. And right now for the catch can is I’m just running two breathers and later on I will fab a catch can system. I don’t know where to put it either since their is absolutely no space! I was thinking about relocating the battery so I have a little more room and I could potentially mount the can there and the ignition box.
Are you on a stand-alone or are you using a chip or stock pcm ?
Yea the efi systems are messy it honestly bothers me too. I think one day I’ll try to do a dedicated wire tuck.
So I reread your post and I got confused lol I thought you were talking about the vacuum reservoir. But with the purge valve I’m just getting rid of mine with the cobra tank and venting the tank with the vapor valve back into the filler tube so it can vent while I’m filling the car up. I read like you did about to many problems with trying to keep the vacuum canister with boosted applications and since I’m running a stand-alone system I don’t think it would even work with the purge valve. And that’s why I just voted to delete it completely and just try to figure out a better way to vent it with the new cobra tank.
iAmChazHaynes Yo I sent you a FB request.
So I’ll look into doing the filler tube route for the vent. I’m actually building for a customer, he’s running pcm with a chip. He’s also keeping all accessories, even cruise control, so real estate under the hood doesn’t really exist.
Thank you so much for the video. Is there any ECU or electronic connection i need to be aware of? or may be damage something?
Bro this video is the best walkthrough i have seen in a very long time! Keep doing stuff like this!
Thank you! I’ll Definitely keep the videos coming!!
With you solenoids unplugged, how does it effect the computer? I've done an egr and smog delete and was trying to delete the vacuum solenoids yet keep hvac vacuum
The pics and diagrams in this video are awesome. Very informative.
Thanks man! I had a hard time figuring out those vacuum lines so I wanted the video to be able to explain the configuration the best it could
Are you running AC? I was just curious why you didn't cap off the EGR vacuum under the upper intake and just use the AC check valve mounted on the firewall to supply vacuum to that vacuum ball in the fender?
Deleted smog pump ...runs solid af 👌 def a good move..car over all will run better but some states have restrictions 😁
Yes if you have restrictions in your state you may run into a problem 😅 Thanks for the comment I totally forgot to say that!
god, im 15 and i just pulled the engine+trans in my '85 gt, you have no idea how helpful this is
Oh awesome! Glad I could help!
Just wondering what you going to do with the 1.3 HP you gained?
One of the best videos I've seen! Thank you!
No worries!! Happy I could help!! 😁
i see your car is speed density if i do the same thing with Mass air will it affect My computer?
You could definitely be a teacher. Well explained
Very informative! Do you have a way to share the vacuum line diagrams used in video?
Very informative and simple
Dude, great content. Subscribed from San Antonio, TX.
Thanks man I appreciate it!!
Hey bro what if I deleted the charcoal canister also what do I do with check valve then ???
Hi
Really great video
Question: what I do with EGR connector ?
How did you clear the codes and or stop computer from messing with timing
I’m finished build my 302 and did maf conversion with a9L all going smooth but the computer didn’t like the egr missing and is throwing codes and messing with its timing I believe
do I need the coolant lines that run to the EGR spacer or can I connect them together
Killer video really simplified the process 👌
Thank you!! I appreciate it 😁
I have a 5.0 Cobra engine in my 1989 short box f150 4x4. It had a super charger at one point. I’m not sure if it had a tune for that or not. I still need to locate the ECU. I’ll be following this guide for sure.
I'm having a issue with the EGR from the strut is still hooked up with a vacuum line from the manifold what else do I block off mines a 91 mustang gt
Once said and done where does the vacuum line from the canister in the fender hook to the intake at?
honestly you can hook it anywhere from the intake or what i did was use the spare slot on the vacuum tree
Let’s go!!! I’m about to get rid of all of this nonsense! And I’m going to a carb style fuel injection on my 5.0 sn95
Tbi….throttle body injection….go with the ace’s efi….im running one on my sons 289 in his ‘67 mustang….currentley building a roller cam 302 for it with all kinds of goodies cause the 289 is tired with its whooping 200hp
But yeah ace’s killshot…you can pick one up for around $900 which is wayyy cheaper than the holley sniper which sucks cause the ecu is in the throttle body that sits on top of a hot vibrating engine….the aces one is remotely mounted and can be mounted inside the car to keep it safe and cool!!!! Night and day difference compared to the holley 4bbl that was on the car before
Hey buddy where you said connecting the check valve into intake... Do I need that installed and with out it would run well like shit ??? Trying figure my problem out
Well if it’s not connected is it at least capped off? And it shouldn’t matter because all that line does is go to a vacuum reservoir for your HVAC stuff. If you want DM me on Instagram and I can talk more in depth about it if you wnat
There are 2 vacuum canisters in the passenger fender well. One goes to the emissions equipment and the other is for the hvac
Best damn video on this topic i have ever seen!! Thanks for this!
Thanks bro!!! I tried to through everything in there that actually helped me !
awesome video!
could u hook me up with the vacuum lines and the EGR I'm having issues with me EGR mostly vacuum leak and the engine bay getting so hot any info
What was the reason for keeping the vacuum canister and keeping it hooked up the the intake…if I’m correct by looking at the vacuum diagram it only serves the purpose of all the smog stuff you removed and nothing else. Couldn’t you just have removed the line as well since it isn’t hooked up to anything anymore?
The canister controls the HVAC system so that’s why I kept it connected. I’d have to re look at that diagram again but from what I understood I needed that to keep all the HVAC equipment working and all my stuff works lol but I’ll double check myself
How do you get the water tubes off car ? And what’s used for a plug ? And can you remove the egr spacer etc and not run it just with the TB and intake
So the little water tubes that go through the spacer you can cap off the line on the heater tube and manifold with just some caps from autozone with a little hose clamp And you can use those little caps to block the spacer off too. And I would keep the spacer cause you take it apart the throttle body doesn’t fit right and the IAC won’t fit without the spacer.
I have a 70mm bbk TB with egr stuff but want all that gone since rest of it is gone
Nice vid and good info as usual
Thanks man! Getting closer to dropping the new engine in!
Just found this…. I would pay for vids like this all day every day, thanks man!
I really appreciate it man! I’ll keep making them!
Thanks for the video brah. I’m doing this same process on my car. All this stuff is so ugly in there and useless. I’m in NH so no laws up here. My question is what’s the vacuum canister in the fenders purpose? The one that looks like a ball.
That is a vacuum canister that sort of saves vacuum in case the system runs low on vacuum. You don't necessarily need it unless you have a huge cam that doesn't make good vacuum but it does help your hvac system work alot better since it all runs on vacuum.
what do I cap the throttle body with and how should I block off the 2 EGR lines
I would just use vacuum caps for the throttle body and the lines that use to connect to it autozone has coolant rated caps you can stick on there. Actually I would probably use those caps for everything lol
@@iamchazhaynes7074 did I see you connect the hose from the black tube right into the back hose on the EGR valve and I don't have the block off plate yet it's on its way but I must have missed something to cap off and I haven't moved the coolant lines yet another question I have is it better to run a shorter belt or get the idle pulley I put the idle pulley on today with the stock belt and the car felt different slower almost I'm not sure but again I'm not sure what I missed it's my first mustang
Thanks for the great vid. How was the gas smell after that re-routing to the intake? I’m removing mine right now on my car? CANADIAN SUPERMAN APPROVES
It smells pretty gassy! But to be fair my car smelled really bad before I tore it off so I’m kind of a bad example 😅 I’ve heard some say it smells fine and some say it’s horrible 🤷🏼♂️ but thank you!
Great video man!
Thanks I appreciate it!
So what intake manifold are you running?
I have an edelbrock victor Jr efi intake with a Holley elbow on top 👍🏻
So if you this off can you run the non egr gt40 explorer intake without having to tap it
If you delete the EGR it wont matter you still need to tap it for your ACT sensor though 😀
@@iamchazhaynes7074 Ahhh yes.....that's whst I was thanking of
Any way to remove those air tubes without cutting them? If I can I want to avoid any cutting.
You don’t have to cut ! The guy who had worked on my car just cut them out cause he’s a doof. They will unscrew and then you can buy head plugs to screw in and plug them up.
@@iamchazhaynes7074 appreciate the reply! I'm talking about the part that connects to the H-pipe. I'm not 100% sure what its actually called but I see people on forums call em air tubes.
Great information. Appreciate your video
Thank you! Glad I could help!!
Did you put a throttle body spacer after removing the egr? Or can i bolt it straight to the intake manifold?
if you are keeping the stock style manifold I would keep the spacer because the throttle cable bracket bolts to it so you need it for that. You can buy solid spacers with no EGR passages when you upgrade your throttle body. But I wouldn’t buy one until you upgrade 😁 but you definitely need to keep it
I just bypass the smog pump with a 77.5 inch belt. Takes 5 minutes lol
The charcoal canister is like our appendix. Does nothing but it can stink when it does.
Hahaha exactly 😂 I’ve heard of some people having no smell when they remove it and I’ve heard of others that say they just excrete fuel 😂 I’m in the middle it wasn’t so noticeable when I removed mine but my canister had gone bad anyways so I’m not a good example 🤷🏼♂️ lol
You forgot to mention getting a shorter belt after deleting the air pump! But great vid!
Your totally right!! Haha oops 😅 thanks man!
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With removal of all that crap did your check engine light came on? If do how to turn it off? Thx, just subed your channel
Well I ended up using a standalone ecu so I never had to deal with the check engine light 😅 but I heard if you plug a resistor into the egr plug it will keep the light off. Sorry I’m not more help with that. I didn’t do much research into the check engine light because I knew I wouldn’t have to deal with it myself. But thank you for the support ! It helps me tremendously!! 😁
Super helpful
Thanks for the vid and dumbing it down. much appreciated!!! 🙌🏼
No worries!! Super glad I could help!! 😁🙏🏻
ima be doing the same thing cuz my vac lines wasnt hooked up right and brittle.. having drivability issues i capped off alll the emissions but the back off the heads and the smog pump pipe.. but like you said race car stuff so needs to be gone anyways lol
Mine were the exact same way just brittle and and destroyed so I got rid of it 🤷🏼♂️ don’t need emissions for a racecar hahaha some guys get so angry when you say you’re getting rid of it for some reason though 😂 the only thing that’s bad is it smells like gas since my gas tank isn’t vented properly but so the charcoal canister would be the only thing but you can vent the gas tank other ways or get a cobra tank like I’m doing and vent it that way 😁
@@iamchazhaynes7074 ngl my doesnt smell too bad like everybody claim.. i do have my gas tank to charcoal canister line still on and taped underneath but i can tell the difference in power but only cuz i prob had vac leaks lol
Oh nice! That will help! And it makes a difference even though it’s small even the little bit of power makes a difference! Haha but fixing the vacuum leaks probably helped a lot!! Haha
You don’t need change anything in factory emissions equipment! Efi cars are so easy to get ( 0 ) emissions at test facilities!
Seriously! Mine failed even with all the smog stuff in it 🥲 but the car is going to an AZ county with no smog laws so I’m not worried about it 😁
Love this
Thanks man!!
Should have just bought a dummy wheel in place for the smog pump super easy and to be fair I totally watch the entire video like I should have but great work anyways.
Yea those things are cool and make the process really simple! But I needed space for the turbo system I’m installing so I got rid of it totally 👍🏻
3:56 EGR into the heater hose 😱😱😱
😵😵😵😵😵
So I should have been more specific it’s the EGR cooler hose not the actual exhaust gas! Lol sorry about that!
Isn’t the car gonna have a check engine light
not if you remove that small bulb from behind the speedo!
Ok, so this is for a track-only, “never driven on the street” application, right? B/C it’s a federal violation to remove or disable any emissions equipment that was part of the manufacturer’s original build.
Who cares
I got 60
Come back bro lol
These cars are getting too rare these days to rip apart and make race cars anymore. If you have an unmolested foxbody you should leave it. There are tons of hacked foxes out there to make race cars.
I totally agree with you! I’ve had this car since I was 15 and have been wrenching on it ever since. It’s never been perfect I’ve restored it and put a lot of time in it just to get it where it is, and I don’t plan on going full race car on it I just want a really nice street car.
Lol
This is so illegal in California. Lol
Lingy Guisar California does want anyone to have fun with their cars hahaha
@@iamchazhaynes7074 tell me about it i got hit with a state reff in my foxbody. 😩👎
@@lingyguisar4149 NO WAY!! That sucks!! California are like car Nazi's they'll do anything to kill them!!
Hahaha that’s not a bad idea honestly
Clearly, you don’t understand how the emissions controls work, nor do you understand engines. PCV kerps your engine oil healthy. That AIR pump keeps both the Oxygen sensor clean during cold starts, and keeps the catalytic converters from clogging. EGR lowers combustion temperatures, increases efficiency, and gives a small boost of power at part throttle. None of these systems cause a loss of power, but they do confuse certain people.
No horsepower gain
Almost lol even though it is practically nothing you’ll still gain about 1-2 hp from the smog pump delete which is really nothing but it’s something lol And plus I need mine out of the way to fit the On3 turbo for the car.