@@johnsiczka916 I appreciate your supportive comment. I’m Happy to know the long form helped and hasn’t been a waste of time. Some people have not enjoyed the explanations, but I do it for those who want to learn. Ever since time stamps were introduced, I’ve added those to allow for people to skip to the area of interest.
Man you save me I’m just 21 with no mechanical skills but from the dealership who Wannna charge me 700 bucks and u also save me from local mechanic shops who wanna charge me 300 bucks I’m disabled but I’m willing to try to do the job on my own
@@inthedarkwoods2022 I didn’t sell I moved to Texas at the time and while I was living there a flood hit and destroyed the vehicle so my insurance gave me 10k
When you test for the leaks, have you added more coolant back in? You only show adding coolant at the end. I just want to be sure. Otherwise I really loved the video. I am 50+ female and try to do what I can myself before heading to a mechanic. These videos help a lot.
No the only reason why I added coolant in is because I had to drain the coolant in order to put the thermostat in when you drain the coolant it usually drains from the bottom which means you drain 90% of the coolant in the engine anyway. My car never leaked any coolant but if you are losing coolant do you want to check around the radiator hoses, the hoses, the edges of the radiator where the tanks mount because those leak and the top of the engine around the gasket in the center (manifold) between the valve covers, because some leaks will occur there due to the water jackets cooling your engine down and seeping out a faulty gasket. Hopes this clarifies
Great video I liked the way you've explained everything. I am no car guru but I was able to change both sensor and the thermostat easily. Thanks to your video. Now I was wondering if you could possibly help me out I have changed both parts and have cleared the code. I have drove the car a week and guess what the code is back. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Glad it was easily explained, that’s why I explain as much as possible for people to pick out what they need depending on their skill level as I also learn. I also am no car guru, I just share the information I find out as I do research. You can check @ 1:12 & 4:45. Also check around the motor for leaks. You can also unplug the battery for a hour to let the system fully reset to remove all embedded codes.
Was it this code or something else? You have to run a diagnostic check to get the code. You might have to inspect the fans, fuses and ALL wire harnesses / connectors. Try also resetting everything by unplugging the battery for 30+ min.
I'm not a mechanic, I only know what I researched and fixed due to process of elimination and my understanding of some mechanical knowledge, anything more might need a certified mechanic. Try unplugging your battery to reset the code (leave for 30min), it might need to be reset or driven for a certain amount of miles before it resets. Make sure the fans are turning on and off when they should. You can check your wiring that has anything to deal with the temperature including connectors. Other advice on the code: www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0128-obd-ii-trouble-code-coolant-thermostat-coolant-temperature-below-thermostat-regulating-temperature-by-evan-clay
You should still be under warranty… if you put coolant in it and once it heats up it sprays everywhere and overheats; it could be something clogging the system; broken internal propeller for the assistant pump if it has one or a stuck thermostat causing the liquid to overheat and expand. The check engine light will show because it’s not operating properly but a low coolant code will appear. There has to be a cause for the low coolant though
@@ultragaming5511 it shouldn’t spray at all… if anything sprays it’s due to pressure and it shouldn’t. The spraying won’t hurt anything. The only time you should be filling is when the car is cool not if it’s already hot. If it’s hot then let it cool down. The reason why I ran the car to add coolant is to burp the system because I drained the entire coolant. As long as the cap is off while it’s cool then you can run the engine and fill because it can’t build up pressure. Never drive the car then pour coolant right away because it’s a closed system and had time to pressurize. Picture your car like a steam engine; it can only pressurize if it’s closed up; this thought 💭 for the coolant will keep you from getting severely burned
You have to drain it until the fluid is below the lowest part that you are replacing and don't reuse it because it might be contaminated. Just buy the concentrate stuff or whatever type (different types are colored differently) you currently have in. If you don't know, you might have to drain it all the way via bottom valve or lower hose. I recommend concentrate (if you buy a gallon for this small car radiator, maybe use half to start with of the recommended type) and fill it the rest with water, make sure the color isn't clear and has a hue of the fluid color and you should be good. If you live in extreme climates you might need to look at the owners manual for the exact amount because you might need more. Keep in mind to burp the system as you refill the fluid so no air bubbles get caught. Elevate the front slightly, let the car run once you fill it and keep the cap off until it stops bubbling, turn off car when you put the cap on and fill the overflow to the fill line (refer to owners manual for exact instructions, warning it is HOT).
@@tunerlifestyle Nice! Its Pretty simple. Its mainly to keep the water from freezing in winter and boiling the water dry in the summer hence why I mentioned it might need more if your in harsh climates. For anyone else looking at the comments, Avoid 50/50, its a ripoff. The main thing is that you have it and your system is burped enough.
@@ProjectAnubisUSA I did rewatch 11:35 and see that you used the old one, i misheard. The OEM gasket i bought does NOT contain the nub. It's completely round, no "nipple", which is causing confusion for me. It also fits VERY loose. if you search Hyundai 25633-2G000, you will see the OEM gasket is flush, no nipple. I believe this is causing a leak for me. I am on my wits end on this because I have bought numerous thermostats, and even coolant inlet (if you Google hyundai Bulletin 11-FL-003-1, click the first result and you will see hyundai directs you to buy their "updated" parts to fix this P0128 code. The inlet and thermostat are updated, but NOT the gasket) I still receive the code and the temperature is still fluctuating. The funny part is it will be completely fine the first few hours I drive it after installing everything, but the symptom returns the next day, leading me to believe the Gasket is the issue. After watching your video, I see that the correct Gasket has a nipple for the thermostat nub to seat properly and tight. I will buy a few gaskets that include the nipple and see which one sits the tightest. Thanks for your help.
@@Linkgt @0:50 I replaced the temperature sensor as well. If you don’t see any leaks then your gasket isn’t a problem, if your old gasket worked reuse it and try using that instead. Also make sure your air vent is located in the right area as well. If you’ve done everything and it still has an issue you might want to look at the wiring and wiggled those around even your fuse box because it could be giving a false code. I had a fuse issue for my radio on my Nissan and I wiggled it around swapped it with another one next to it and my radio turned back on so don’t rule that out as well.
Dealer… I ordered one from a dealer which kept getting pushed out months at a time and then had to go to another dealer that had three in stock in Visalia California.
@@keionegarraway9760 my bad I thought this was the valve cover gasket video. Auto zone or O’Reilly (this purchase) will have the stuff but I recommend OEM from the dealership for the thermostat because I had gasket issues as I demonstrate
@@keionegarraway9760 if it’s cheap enough I’d get the thermostat housing with it just incase you break the plastic when tightening or removing the house. The VW I did was Notorious for fragile plastic parts that were expensive and required the entire harness to be purchased but the Hyundai should be available with the thermostat and housing for a fair price. I recommend replacing all the parts do you think need replacing such as hoses if you have a lot of miles on your vehicle so you don’t have to do it again.
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This is one of the best videos on how to change this stuff and the possibilities, i changed both the thermostat and the sensor and it works great!!!
Glad it helped! For me, Locating and having the seal issue on the thermostat was the hardest part to figure out. 🫨
Great video. The details are really helpful including why you are doing different steps, what it means, and what to do and what not to do. Thanks!
@@johnsiczka916 I appreciate your supportive comment. I’m Happy to know the long form helped and hasn’t been a waste of time. Some people have not enjoyed the explanations, but I do it for those who want to learn. Ever since time stamps were introduced, I’ve added those to allow for people to skip to the area of interest.
Great video.
I always use OEM parts sensors,etc.
I have 240K on mine.
Still runs very well.
Any gas fumes with the fuel pump nipple breaking? I replaced it twice now, 70k-109k
You saved me about $400 with this video. Thanks so much!
Man you save me I’m just 21 with no mechanical skills but from the dealership who Wannna charge me 700 bucks and u also save me from local mechanic shops who wanna charge me 300 bucks I’m disabled but I’m willing to try to do the job on my own
@@zhaarakbrady6551 You are 21 and disabled?
@@inthedarkwoods2022 yes but I got rid of the vehicle and I’m now 24 I currently own a 2011 Acura mdx
@@zhaarakbrady6551 Did you do the thermostat replacement by yourself before selling it? Was it difficult to do?
@@inthedarkwoods2022 I didn’t sell I moved to Texas at the time and while I was living there a flood hit and destroyed the vehicle so my insurance gave me 10k
This is the best explained video in all youtube, since I've been having a thermostat problem and this explains it and how to.. Great job..
When you test for the leaks, have you added more coolant back in? You only show adding coolant at the end. I just want to be sure. Otherwise I really loved the video. I am 50+ female and try to do what I can myself before heading to a mechanic. These videos help a lot.
No the only reason why I added coolant in is because I had to drain the coolant in order to put the thermostat in when you drain the coolant it usually drains from the bottom which means you drain 90% of the coolant in the engine anyway. My car never leaked any coolant but if you are losing coolant do you want to check around the radiator hoses, the hoses, the edges of the radiator where the tanks mount because those leak and the top of the engine around the gasket in the center (manifold) between the valve covers, because some leaks will occur there due to the water jackets cooling your engine down and seeping out a faulty gasket.
Hopes this clarifies
It should be up to temp at idle. I don’t recommend loading the parts cannon up until you've done at least some diag
Great video I liked the way you've explained everything. I am no car guru but I was able to change both sensor and the thermostat easily. Thanks to your video. Now I was wondering if you could possibly help me out I have changed both parts and have cleared the code. I have drove the car a week and guess what the code is back. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Glad it was easily explained, that’s why I explain as much as possible for people to pick out what they need depending on their skill level as I also learn. I also am no car guru, I just share the information I find out as I do research. You can check @ 1:12 & 4:45. Also check around the motor for leaks. You can also unplug the battery for a hour to let the system fully reset to remove all embedded codes.
Here is another source that might help
www.carparts.com/blog/p0128-coolant-temperature-below-thermostat-regulating-temperature/amp/
Can you please post the hyundai part numbers on the thermostat and the temperature sensor?
@ 1:40 I do. Also, a call to the auto parts store or online search on their website will also show more details.
I’ve done this and I still can’t get my check engine light to stay off
Idk what else to do :(
Was it this code or something else? You have to run a diagnostic check to get the code. You might have to inspect the fans, fuses and ALL wire harnesses / connectors. Try also resetting everything by unplugging the battery for 30+ min.
I changed the thermostat and the ECT but I still get the same code please advise about the next step
I'm not a mechanic, I only know what I researched and fixed due to process of elimination and my understanding of some mechanical knowledge, anything more might need a certified mechanic. Try unplugging your battery to reset the code (leave for 30min), it might need to be reset or driven for a certain amount of miles before it resets. Make sure the fans are turning on and off when they should. You can check your wiring that has anything to deal with the temperature including connectors.
Other advice on the code:
www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0128-obd-ii-trouble-code-coolant-thermostat-coolant-temperature-below-thermostat-regulating-temperature-by-evan-clay
Just got this code on my 2018 Elantra with 9000 miles on it. Whenever i put coolant in it it sprays everywhere. Would a leak trip the light?
You should still be under warranty… if you put coolant in it and once it heats up it sprays everywhere and overheats; it could be something clogging the system; broken internal propeller for the assistant pump if it has one or a stuck thermostat causing the liquid to overheat and expand. The check engine light will show because it’s not operating properly but a low coolant code will appear. There has to be a cause for the low coolant though
@@ProjectAnubisUSA no i put coolant in the overflow tank. If it sprays a little it shouldn't hurt right?
@@ultragaming5511 it shouldn’t spray at all… if anything sprays it’s due to pressure and it shouldn’t. The spraying won’t hurt anything. The only time you should be filling is when the car is cool not if it’s already hot. If it’s hot then let it cool down. The reason why I ran the car to add coolant is to burp the system because I drained the entire coolant. As long as the cap is off while it’s cool then you can run the engine and fill because it can’t build up pressure. Never drive the car then pour coolant right away because it’s a closed system and had time to pressurize. Picture your car like a steam engine; it can only pressurize if it’s closed up; this thought 💭 for the coolant will keep you from getting severely burned
How much coolant would you say you needed to replace what you lost ?
You have to drain it until the fluid is below the lowest part that you are replacing and don't reuse it because it might be contaminated. Just buy the concentrate stuff or whatever type (different types are colored differently) you currently have in. If you don't know, you might have to drain it all the way via bottom valve or lower hose. I recommend concentrate (if you buy a gallon for this small car radiator, maybe use half to start with of the recommended type) and fill it the rest with water, make sure the color isn't clear and has a hue of the fluid color and you should be good. If you live in extreme climates you might need to look at the owners manual for the exact amount because you might need more. Keep in mind to burp the system as you refill the fluid so no air bubbles get caught. Elevate the front slightly, let the car run once you fill it and keep the cap off until it stops bubbling, turn off car when you put the cap on and fill the overflow to the fill line (refer to owners manual for exact instructions, warning it is HOT).
@@ProjectAnubisUSA thanks I did it earlier today and it was successful
@@tunerlifestyle Nice! Its Pretty simple. Its mainly to keep the water from freezing in winter and boiling the water dry in the summer hence why I mentioned it might need more if your in harsh climates. For anyone else looking at the comments, Avoid 50/50, its a ripoff. The main thing is that you have it and your system is burped enough.
Thanks
Glad it helped
Can you post a link to the new gasket? or part number? It would be much appreciated.
Thank you
I reused the original gasket
I recommend buying the thermostat from a dealer then you will get new everything.
@11:33
@@ProjectAnubisUSA I did rewatch 11:35 and see that you used the old one, i misheard. The OEM gasket i bought does NOT contain the nub. It's completely round, no "nipple", which is causing confusion for me. It also fits VERY loose. if you search Hyundai 25633-2G000, you will see the OEM gasket is flush, no nipple. I believe this is causing a leak for me. I am on my wits end on this because I have bought numerous thermostats, and even coolant inlet (if you Google hyundai Bulletin 11-FL-003-1, click the first result and you will see hyundai directs you to buy their "updated" parts to fix this P0128 code. The inlet and thermostat are updated, but NOT the gasket) I still receive the code and the temperature is still fluctuating. The funny part is it will be completely fine the first few hours I drive it after installing everything, but the symptom returns the next day, leading me to believe the Gasket is the issue.
After watching your video, I see that the correct Gasket has a nipple for the thermostat nub to seat properly and tight. I will buy a few gaskets that include the nipple and see which one sits the tightest. Thanks for your help.
@@Linkgt @0:50 I replaced the temperature sensor as well. If you don’t see any leaks then your gasket isn’t a problem, if your old gasket worked reuse it and try using that instead. Also make sure your air vent is located in the right area as well. If you’ve done everything and it still has an issue you might want to look at the wiring and wiggled those around even your fuse box because it could be giving a false code. I had a fuse issue for my radio on my Nissan and I wiggled it around swapped it with another one next to it and my radio turned back on so don’t rule that out as well.
Where did you buy your parts from
Dealer… I ordered one from a dealer which kept getting pushed out months at a time and then had to go to another dealer that had three in stock in Visalia California.
@@ProjectAnubisUSA I see cause my car is currently doing that and I need to get it fix
@@keionegarraway9760 my bad I thought this was the valve cover gasket video. Auto zone or O’Reilly (this purchase) will have the stuff but I recommend OEM from the dealership for the thermostat because I had gasket issues as I demonstrate
@@ProjectAnubisUSA thank you I’m gonna have to deal with it this weekend
@@keionegarraway9760 if it’s cheap enough I’d get the thermostat housing with it just incase you break the plastic when tightening or removing the house. The VW I did was Notorious for fragile plastic parts that were expensive and required the entire harness to be purchased but the Hyundai should be available with the thermostat and housing for a fair price. I recommend replacing all the parts do you think need replacing such as hoses if you have a lot of miles on your vehicle so you don’t have to do it again.
👍🏼
Man why are your hands so shaky? You ok?
Tremors. No, it is problematic daily and requires things to take longer than normal at times.
My guy do you have Parkinson?
My thoughts exactly.