We bought our 2016 Kia Forte in September of 23, it's now May of 24, and it was using about 1 qt of oil every 500 miles. The car was out of warranty. So this is how I fixed it: I pulled the coil packs and plugs out and then sprayed Seafoam into the cylinders and let it sit overnight. The next day I cranked the motor just a bit to move the pistons. I had some left over PB Blaster so I put that into the cylinders too. I let that sit for 2-3 days. I cranked the motor a bit to push the fluid out of the cylinders, then I put the coils/plugs back in and drove it pretty hard for about 10-15 minutes. I changed the oil and filter then I put about 300 miles on it and the oil is still at the top of the dipstick. I think the PB Blaster (it's a penetrant) got into the piston rings and freed them up. I did a compression test on all 4 cylinders, readings were around 170 psi, 110 is the minimum. Mileage has improved by 3-4 MPG too.
Aggressive piston soak with B-12 works most of the time if done correctly. I am on my 2nd piston soak by dealer. Or you can put about a whole can B-12 in empty gas tank, then fill and get to an open road and hit the pedal hard for 5 miles or more. You need to knock the crap out of that oil ring. ALSO Yamalube ring free shock treatment and hit the gas pedal hard. These GDI need oil changed at 3k and make sure you use top tier gas or add Techron (PEA). Hit the REDLINE RPM a few times a week. Don't baby the RPMs
Had the same issue with my 2013 Kia Optima. What a joke....the dealership couldn't figure out the oil burning issue and wanted to charge me for diagnosing, suggested it may be a bad engine, etc. I came home, did a little research on the internet, changed out my PCV valve and the oil burning stopped, my power was back, and fuel economy. All because of a $13 part had stopped working correctly.
@@asianstud7 Yes, I've not had any more excessive oil consumption. I now have 126,000 miles on my 2013 and when I change the oil around 5000 miles, I'm only down about 1/2 quart.
You beautiful man! Thanks for taking the time to film and share this fix. I went to change my oil today and only 1.5L drained out. Going to see if this is the culprit. :)
As some folks may already know gasoline Direct Injection engines go by many names including GDI, DI, FSI and more. Car manufacturers have introduced this engine technology in response to federal emissions and fuel mileage requirements. While these engines may offer a lot of upsides as far as fuel economy, horsepower, lower displacement and fewer tailpipe emissions, they also have some problems that should be considered. To start, there is the higher manufacturing cost for the engine, as well as non-uniform distribution of air-fuel mixture in a multi-cylinder engine, therefore, reduced the loss of thermal energy. Loss of volumetric efficiency due to the restrictions of airflow mixture, as a result, increasing the chances of misfiring. As anyone who has needed engine repair done can tell you, these are not cheap repairs. Many of the automakers who have employed this technology have stepped up to the plate to try and fix it. The OEMs have known about this issue for a while, and aftermarket companies have been working on solutions, but there’s no magic bullet yet. BMW and Kia specifically have issued technical service bulletins to their dealerships urging them to recommend ethanol-free gasoline brands and gasoline with detergents. They have also recommended owners occasionally add a fuel-system cleaner to their vehicle. Some other automakers have tried some engineering fixes. One example is a modification to the engine that allows it to spray a little fuel onto the valves themselves to act as a solvent and keep them clean. Still, the best way to keep your GDI engine running cleanly and properly is to practice proper maintenance.
'should change pcv valve is not in my factory maintance schedule. Should change does not exist..so it's not the owners fault. Just perhaps not a car care nut
I have a 2017 Kia Optima with the same engine (2.4L GDI) and it has 47k miles on it. Just changed the PCV and all 4 spark plugs in about 30 min total. Very easy to go PCV and plugs. 3 plugs looked fine (tan color) plug #4 (far right plug look down at engine) was fouled with carbon build up. I replaced all 4 plugs with NGK Iridium plugs and did an intake cleaner as well.
i’m a week to late i wish i would’ve known about this before i took my 2016 hyundai sonata sport to the dealership for a new engine there is a recall on these engines which i didn’t know my car wasted a lot of oil just like this one did i didn’t even know this could fix the problem lol but i am gettin a new engine put in it will take a month for the paperwork and getting it ordered and installing it thank you so much for the video i appreciate it
1. Change pcv valve 2. Use quality oil for shorter oil changes 3. Use an engine flush to free sticky rings. 4. Use combustion cleaner to help clean carbon deposits. 5. Run a thicker oil Many of these engines are oil burners and eventually fail.
Only thing is, I would not use a thicker oil if the engine has variable valve timing because thicker oil doesn't flow as good and can damage the variable valve timing system which is powered by the engine oil.
@@Shoultes gdi engines don't hold up very well. It mainly has to do with the piston rings not being capable of keeping the fuel from seeping past the piston rings to the crankcase.
PCV Valve didn't fix our 2019 Kia Optima burning 2 quarts of oil per month. It started burning it at about 75-85K miles. At 95K miles, we decided it was time to get rid of it before it blows up or catches on fire. BTW, the 2021 Jeep Cherokee Latitude LUX is quite nice.
Add a catch can between the pcv valve and the intake manifold. You also need to do a intake valve cleaning (I used lucas complete engine treatment and add it to your engine oil every oil change, 1oz per qt of oil). Your map sensor is probably also dirty so clean it also. My car completely transformed after and so far oil consumption has improved significantly.
I've been using synthetic 5 w 30 in my 2011 Sonata. Runs a lot smoother than with 5 w 20. It only uses a quart about 3k. I change it at 4.5 k. I believe 5 w 30 should have been originally the recommended oil but car companies want 1 % more mpg and don't care how long the engines last.
@@shaikharif19 What does your cars owner manual say? So, how can you tell which oil types better for your car in cold weather climates? That’s where those numbers on the oil bottles like 10W-40 come in. The letter “W” in that number stands for “Winter”, this is related to how an oil flows when it is cold, such as at engine start-up. The second number is defined by how an oil flows at normal engine operating temperatures. The number before it (the “10”, in this case) is the viscosity or thickness. When the cold weather comes, you want a lower number, meaning thinner oil, which will smoothly coat the insides of your engine even in the most frigid weather. The second number is the high-temperature viscosity rating, measuring how well the oil protects your engine in those conditions. So, a 5W-30 or 0-W30 will give better protection in winter weather than, say, a 10W-40 or a 20W-50, while still providing solid high-temperature protection. That said, always follow your cars manufacturer instructions.
@@EddieLeal thank you Mr Eddie leal. My manual says 5w20 but I noticed 5w30 seems to be working much smothrt. And I am going to used 5w20 during winter times
I’ve taken these engines apart, believe it or not the rings usually looked fine, but the bottom ends were torn to shreds (bearings). I will say that the oil control rings have a strange design, they’re small and there isn’t an spring spacer in the middle of the scrapers on the oil ring, instead it’s a solid looking type thing. Wonder if that’s part of the oil consumption issue?
2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport, 2.4L uses oil like mad. I now have to keep a jug of 5W20 in the back and top it off all the time. No smoke, no leaks, new PCV valve. Little bit of oil smell when I start it. Guy at the auto parts store told me it has a “porous block” that retains motor oil for safer startups. All I know is I’ve replaced the knock sensor twice, had the ECU update done, sucker pings like mad because GDI doesn’t allow for any cleaning on the intake, so it’s all nasty. Last Hyundai I will ever buy, and I still have a year to pay on the dumb thing.
I have a 2017 same problem it started at about 60 k it was only burning about a quart every 3 k till about 90 k it was a quart every 1500 milles changed the pcv valve still burning oil I think it's about time Hyundai man's up and fix this issue. My 99 Buick leaks about half a quart every 3000 milles but no burning never buying a Hyundai ever again
I have that same issue with my 2017 Sonata 2.0T. Started burning oil around 60K miles and now every 1k or so I add a quart. Hyundai should step up and recall these garbage engines.
My son has a 2015 Sonata that burns oil. The last time he checked the oil after 3000 miles the oil was barely visible on the dipstick. No oil light came on.
@@BIendtecc the car is good still burning a little but every week I move front regular gas to shell v power and also I was using regular oil I move to Castrol edge high mileage full synthetic and it helps. But remember that direct injection engine build carbon by time so that is the reason that it burn oil Keep always a 1/4 of oil in your car en always check it 1 drive 100 miles a day I check it every day 163000 miles now sonata sport 2015 no transmission or engine problem yet. Any questions feel free to ask
I just changed my 2016 w 88k miles as I got tired and frustrated with having to put 2 sometimes 4 quarters of oil between oil changes. Wish I would have seen this video.
Some of you who arent sure where the oil is going, my 2015 was smelling and i would see a little smoke. Kept checking to find my gasket behind the engine on the firewall side had a space and the oil was coming out slowly being burned by the eat of the engine but almost no visual sings of leaking even after i parked. Now i see the side of the engine has dry oil down the backside. Pisses me off. Found out many people have gasket separating issues with 2015 models foem what ive read.
If the customer ran it until it only had 1 quart of oil left (he said so in the video) the rings, lifters, camshaft, and bearings are probably damaged.
@@CrashCarson14 One quart of oil in the oil pan is barley enough to touch the oil pickup. If you are sitting perfectly still on a flat surface it might pick it up, still it probably won't be enough to reach all the parts that need lubrication (valve train, camshaft and bearings). Once you move the car what little oil is there will drain away from the pickup and you're left with cavitation (air bubbles). Eventually lack of lubrication will even damage the oil pump.
Hyundai has a oil consumption program I was in it with my 2016 Sonata. They keep saying right up to the end that I was getting a rebuilt motor then corporate said ‘no’.
My brother in law has this same issue. Although it was still under warranty at the time and several trips to the dealership over the issue of oil burning...corporate said no to engine replacement. Anyone that has the links for the class action lawsuit would be appreciated.
I'm having the same issue with my 2016 Hyundai Sonata Sport. Dealership giving me the runaround. My car is under full extended Warrenty, but Hyundai dealership is refusing to replace the engine. I'm burning oil every 1000 miles or so with no oil left in the engine. Very poorly made engine on Hyundai's part!
The 2.4 and 2.0 are known bad design engines. Dealers are stacking replacement long blocks like cord wood. Head down to your dealership and get your “new” engine. They are so bad that eventually Hyundai/Kia gave lifetime warranties on them. I got mine at 88k.
I have a 2017 Sonata, other than the paint falling off and oil consumption, it is a nice car. Replacing pvc valve did not help. After watching Scotty, I suspect bad seals on the cylinder, the lower ones.
the warranty is BS.. theyll want prooof of service that you are using parts that they approved... good luck with that.. hope u always get oil changed at the dealership.
Yes, they said I needed to pay $300+ for a combustion chamber cleaning. Which I did. They said it was maintenance so not covered by warranty. Oil consumption decreased but slowing return to having to check once a week and add oil. Now paint job is failing. Its a 2017 and paint is peeling off in several places. dime to coffee coaster size. Regretting this purchase. I Wrongly thought high mileage warranty meant a good car.
Yes, the original warranty had run out but they still denied the service to the engine. It burns about the same as what everybody's mentioning here. 2012.
If it is that bad, maybe the whole PCV system is clogged not only the valve; on my Kia Picanto the valve cover is part of the system and it was clogged, I removed it and cleaned as well as replaced the valve.
Do yourself a favor and replace this valve every other oil change IMO. I'm old enough to remember when these were a routine replacement EVERY oil change. With oil change intervals getting longer it seems oil quality is being stretched to the max. This is cheap insurance...
It's not burning oil because it's GDI. That's a complete lie. When the engines are new they use zero oil. The issue is with internal components. Also, you tightened the shit out of that pcv valve. Should have been hand tight just using the socket. The O ring seals it easily.
Actually youre only half right. Yes it is partly because its GDI. Modern engines today burn more oil as a whole. Even consumer reports acknowledges this. But yes you are right when its the internal manufacturing defects that are on these cars.
Spending endless money !! You will pay $7000 to replace the engine , you can drain everything , or spend $50 a week pour your own oil . There's no promise it will still work .
My 2017 sonata hybrid has 200000 it started burning oil around 100000. Now it's using a quart every 500 miles. Replacing the pcv valve did nothing for mine. I think the engines are made of inferior metals. This is the first and last Hyundai I'll ever own. I did all the oil changes on time and had number one rod bearing failed at 160000. I caught it before it got bad and replaced it.
My 2017 sonata hybrid has 217000 Miles and it started knocking. Now it's at the dealer and is getting a new engine under the recall. They approved it without giving me any hassle. Just fyi for anybody else out there going through this.
I think this changing pcv valve stuff is bull. I’ve got a 2021 Sportage that is starting to use oil. I’m a retired mechanic and change oil every 4,000 miles and changed the pcv valve with new and it’s still using oil! Never owned a car that at 42000 miles had oil consumption problems.
I hear you brother. GDI engines are high maintenance. If you dont stay on top of it, your engine will let you know by possibly leaving you stranded in some desolate part of the world. .And no, I agree, PCV replacement is definitely not THE solution, just a step in the right direction. As you may already know, because the PCV system is one of the major sources of carbon in the intake system, and eventually the combustion chamber, checking the PCV valve often and cleaning or replacing it as necessary will contribute towards reducing carbon deposits and preventing oil consumption. However, in this particular case, PCV replacement may not be enough to deal with the excessive oil consumption. In carbureted and port fuel-injection engines, the fuel wash from the gasoline mist in the induction system helps keep the valves clean. In GDI engines, the gasoline is squirted directly into the cylinder, so that doesn't happen. Carbon deposits on the valves, in and of themselves, contribute more to performance-loss issues in these engines than oil-burning problems. But when those deposits slough or flake off, they can become lodged in the piston ring area, which does directly increase oil-burning. That's also why addressing oil-burning problems in GDI engines requires more than a PCV change. It requires a three-prong approach. To start, choose an oil specially formulated for GDI engines (my current favorite being Castrol Edge Advanced Full-Synthetic GDI formula) to reduce crankcase vapors that lead to carbon problem on the valves. If your car is older (especially if it's leaking AND burning oil), consider a high-mileage oil formulated for GDI engines like Castrol Edge Advanced High-Mileage. It contains seal conditioners, as well as powerful detergents to reduce carbon deposits around the rings. In my opinion this is the oil that should be used in older car's GDI engine, by the way. Regularly clean the induction system with a good intake cleaner like CRC, Berryman, Seafoam, or Liquid Moly, following the label instructions, before every oil change. Treat the gasoline with a good fuel cleaner that contains enough PEA to remove carbon from around the rings, like Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner, around the same time as every oil change and induction-system cleaning. The intake cleaner will also help clean around the rings, but only during its application. The Techron will keep working on the rings until the next time you fill the gas tank. If at all possible, you should consider using TOP TIER gasoline whenever possible. A study by the Automobile Association of America in 2016 revealed that non-TOP TIER gasoline produced as much as 19 times the deposits that TOP TIER gasoline did. If you follow the above regimen religiously from the moment you buy your new, GDI-engine vehicle, chances are your car's engine won't develop an oil-burning problem. Choosing the right oil (and gasoline) minimizes the deposits, cleaning the intake system regularly removes what carbon does get on the valves, and treating the gasoline prevents the carbon that's removed from building up around the rings (as well as removing deposits from normal combustion and other causes). If your driving consists of frequent short trips, you also should consider reducing the oil-change interval to about half the time and mileage that the manufacturer recommends (or alternatively, follow their "severe duty" recommendation for oil change intervals). Chemical breakdown and oxidation of oil components (as opposed to physical breakdown such as polymer shear), including detergent breakdown, occurs even if a car is never driven. Water contamination due to temperature changes is also a big problem with cars that are infrequently used. I hope this helps brother and take care where ever you may call home!
my 2020 kona started burning oil at 120k, i was looking where it is located , already ordered the exact same part, gonna change it hopefully tomorrrow. saw someone said it needs to be changed every 30k, might as well do that if it works.
That didn't work for me; 2014 santa fe gdi engine. Still consume 4 quarts a day on a 2hr trip, no leaks, no smokes, no nothing...mechanics were stumped, too. It runs good, but I dont know why it's burning so much like it cooks and evaporates into thin air. Im Gonna try a can of b-12 for that oil rings and see how it goes.
I have a 2015 sonata SE changed the PCV valve with no change to my oil consumption with no leaks. What else could cause to burn 5 quarts of oil in a month and a half? Is this common from hyundai?
Yes you need to get ready to learn about the lawsuit. There are Facebook groups too about this. Good luck you’re in a deep pile of crap with these engines. There’s a light at the end of the tunnel, but no idea how long the tunnel is.
I hve a 2016 sonata and Ive had NOTHING but problems with it I’m literally running out of oil once a week and have no oil leaks replaced the valve cover etc n no mechanics can figure it out I’ve brought it to 4 diff mechanics I bought it used from a dealer I’m at 78k n I’m not covered under warranty idk what to do ar this point
Unfortunately Hyundai has the worst engines ever made on a newer car. Sell it before it takes a crap on you and buy a Toyota instead. The reason the engine burns oil is because of the piston rings, to fix this problem the engine has to be taken apart costing thousands of dollars.
Also noticed oil consumption on my 2013 Santa Fe Sport 2.0T, replaced the PCV valve which by the way was also evidently bad, however, it did not make a difference. The car runs smooth but still consumes oil.. any other ideas? Around the same time I also started doing the oil changes myself and switched to Full Synthetic oil, I do not think its the cause, any other things to check? Thanks in advance!
What is the small hose in the back that connects from the air intake to the back top of the engine? I'm trying to find what that is connected to. It looks like a small PCV but it isn't. It's allowing oil vapor to go into my air intake. Thanks
Would this be the same for a 2011 model? Mine does consume a lot of oil and I have noticed when I’m driving and I want to pass somebody when I hit the Excelerator grayish smoke rolls out the end
My 2018 sonata sport, I have to add 2 quarts every two tanks of fuel. I'm fucking sick of it. Also, when I go down hill or coast for a bit, afterwards when I hit the acceleration it smokes hella bad and clears up after a moment. Only when I coast for a while though. I live on a mountain so that's a lot of coast time for me.
Bro it's still gone burn oil I needed a engine it's been doing fine since they replaced the engine well I got a new engine block but you have to check your oil every week and only use synthetic oil and don't over fill it you should be fine but I know people who don't do anything to their Hyundai and it runs fine don't burn oil are anything to me it really just they luck of the draw mines lasted 6 years before my engine failed
Great question... immediately we noticed an increase in power - very noticeable... we topped it off with oil and are waiting... I'll let you know in a couple of weeks....
Bad news -Update: While the car ran better and had more power - there was still oil consumption due to the GDI. Sorry for the bad news. I will add this to the description of the video....
@@CarsandEspresso thanks for updating. I kind of suspected it won't work for oil consumption. But glad it helped for engine performance. Some say gasket replacement may help. Honestly I am leaning towards bad engine design and GDI itself. Oh well, it's Hyundai!
@@CarsandEspresso yeah, I'm in Missouri too. My moms 2016 Santa Fe Sport 2.0t is junk... dealer has been a joke since she got it. Burns a quart or so of oil every 1,000 miles and they say that's normal. Now it's beyond the 100,000 mile mark. Been crap since the 50,000 mile mark. They never fixed it. They put a new turbo in. New transmission... just crap
my 2015 started doing it at 28, 000. still was under 5 years warranty 2 weeks after warranty was up I went to get oil change and garage told me it was low. wasnt like that at any previous changes. Garage told me their should be a recall on them. a lot of sonatas were being reported doing that. that was in Sept. 2020. I got a paper from Hyundai to keep track of my.oil changes in December 2021. Something is definitely going on with this problem
My 2009 camry le v4 is burning too much oil like emptying every 500 miles. The car is running smooth and give good mpg if i top up the oil every 300 - 500 miles. Will replacing pcv valve fix this issue ?
sorry, I don't know if that will do any good, is it a gdi? We are going to make another video where we try to clean the top of the cylinder head... we belive it is carbon build up because of the gdi...
I think most people know. They are just to damn lazy to do it. They either dont want to get their hands dirty or they feel that their car will let them know when it needs service. Well, they wont be disappointed, will they? The car will let them know when they end up stranded in the middle of nowhere with no cell phone service. Some of life's best lessons are learned the hard way. 😉😁
@@CarsandEspresso Haha🤣😂 just pointing out what I found obvious. Did the PCV vakve stop the oil? I'm hoping so but doubt it if that little red light came on multiple times for that one quart left oil change.
Don't wait till the oil light comes on for god's sake, you are extremely low on oil when this happens. I know people that think that light is there to tell them to add oil, thats nuts. Some people should not own cars.
A heavier viscosity oil might help as well. Hyundai recommends SAE 5w30 on most of their engines, one of the benefits of 5w30 being increased gas mileage. But at higher RPMs 5w30 can thin out compared to say 10w30, which causes heat, wear, and potentially burns the oil. I have a 2014 Tuscon that ran amazing until about 65K miles. It started burning oil. We have a freeway that goes up a canyon and has quite a bit of elevation gain requiring high RPMs for cars to get up the canyon. I noticed after my wife would make the drive up the canyon, the engine would be bone dry. After some research, I started adding 10w30 instead of the recommended 5w30 and noticed that the car was not losing nearly as much oil.
I find it funny 😂you made a video about it fixing your issue, then added an “update” in the description stating it didn’t work…. Well delete this video! 😂
We bought our 2016 Kia Forte in September of 23, it's now May of 24, and it was using about 1 qt of oil every 500 miles. The car was out of warranty. So this is how I fixed it:
I pulled the coil packs and plugs out and then sprayed Seafoam into the cylinders and let it sit overnight. The next day I cranked the motor just a bit to move the pistons. I had some left over PB Blaster so I put that into the cylinders too. I let that sit for 2-3 days. I cranked the motor a bit to push the fluid out of the cylinders, then I put the coils/plugs back in and drove it pretty hard for about 10-15 minutes. I changed the oil and filter then I put about 300 miles on it and the oil is still at the top of the dipstick. I think the PB Blaster (it's a penetrant) got into the piston rings and freed them up. I did a compression test on all 4 cylinders, readings were around 170 psi, 110 is the minimum. Mileage has improved by 3-4 MPG too.
I got a 2016 Kia forte LX with 124,481miles burn oil and has a misfire on cylinder 3.
Replaced the PCV valve, engine still uses about 1qt every 1000 miles, even after regular oil changes and maintenance
Had a similar issue on a Sonata 2012, oil consumption every 2-3 days, finally traded it in for a Camry
Aggressive piston soak with B-12 works most of the time if done correctly. I am on my 2nd piston soak by dealer. Or you can put about a whole can B-12 in empty gas tank, then fill and get to an open road and hit the pedal hard for 5 miles or more. You need to knock the crap out of that oil ring. ALSO Yamalube ring free shock treatment and hit the gas pedal hard. These GDI need oil changed at 3k and make sure you use top tier gas or add Techron (PEA). Hit the REDLINE RPM a few times a week. Don't baby the RPMs
Had the same issue with my 2013 Kia Optima. What a joke....the dealership couldn't figure out the oil burning issue and wanted to charge me for diagnosing, suggested it may be a bad engine, etc. I came home, did a little research on the internet, changed out my PCV valve and the oil burning stopped, my power was back, and fuel economy. All because of a $13 part had stopped working correctly.
Just making sure since the time was that the problem
Has that fixed your problem long term?
@@asianstud7 Yes, I've not had any more excessive oil consumption. I now have 126,000 miles on my 2013 and when I change the oil around 5000 miles, I'm only down about 1/2 quart.
@@scottmcdonald7577 oh good. I'm glad it worked out for you .
That's great! Did you notice any external oil leaks before replacing the Pcv valve, or did the oil just seem to disappear?
You beautiful man! Thanks for taking the time to film and share this fix. I went to change my oil today and only 1.5L drained out. Going to see if this is the culprit. :)
wow... thank you! If this doesn't help, you might want to clean the engine with a kit like this: ruclips.net/video/h4WXgyX1UF0/видео.html
As some folks may already know gasoline Direct Injection engines go by many names including GDI, DI, FSI and more. Car manufacturers have introduced this engine technology in response to federal emissions and fuel mileage requirements. While these engines may offer a lot of upsides as far as fuel economy, horsepower, lower displacement and fewer tailpipe emissions, they also have some problems that should be considered.
To start, there is the higher manufacturing cost for the engine, as well as non-uniform distribution of air-fuel mixture in a multi-cylinder engine, therefore, reduced the loss of thermal energy. Loss of volumetric efficiency due to the restrictions of airflow mixture, as a result, increasing the chances of misfiring. As anyone who has needed engine repair done can tell you, these are not cheap repairs. Many of the automakers who have employed this technology have stepped up to the plate to try and fix it. The OEMs have known about this issue for a while, and aftermarket companies have been working on solutions, but there’s no magic bullet yet.
BMW and Kia specifically have issued technical service bulletins to their dealerships urging them to recommend ethanol-free gasoline brands and gasoline with detergents. They have also recommended owners occasionally add a fuel-system cleaner to their vehicle. Some other automakers have tried some engineering fixes. One example is a modification to the engine that allows it to spray a little fuel onto the valves themselves to act as a solvent and keep them clean. Still, the best way to keep your GDI engine running cleanly and properly is to practice proper maintenance.
340,000 2011 Sportage has never used a drop
This is a 30K maintenance item. The PCV valve should be changed with every major scheduled service (30, 60, 90K, etc.)
'should change pcv valve is not in my factory maintance schedule.
Should change does not exist..so it's not the owners fault. Just perhaps not a car care nut
I have a 2017 Kia Optima with the same engine (2.4L GDI) and it has 47k miles on it. Just changed the PCV and all 4 spark plugs in about 30 min total. Very easy to go PCV and plugs. 3 plugs looked fine (tan color) plug #4 (far right plug look down at engine) was fouled with carbon build up. I replaced all 4 plugs with NGK Iridium plugs and did an intake cleaner as well.
Did this work?
Did it solve oil consumption issues
@@ryanbrawley1361
Today I have 56k miles on the car and zero oil consumption. So, I think it did work
@@dannyturbo3224
I have 56k miles on the car as of today and zero oil consumption. So, I think this did work.
i’m a week to late i wish i would’ve known about this before i took my 2016 hyundai sonata sport to the dealership for a new engine there is a recall on these engines which i didn’t know my car wasted a lot of oil just like this one did i didn’t even know this could fix the problem lol but i am gettin a new engine put in it will take a month for the paperwork and getting it ordered and installing it
thank you so much for the video i appreciate it
Hyundai replaced the engine in my 2016 sonata last year and they paid for a rental car while it was at the dealership for 6 weeks
1. Change pcv valve
2. Use quality oil for shorter oil changes
3. Use an engine flush to free sticky rings.
4. Use combustion cleaner to help clean carbon deposits.
5. Run a thicker oil
Many of these engines are oil burners and eventually fail.
Only thing is, I would not use a thicker oil if the engine has variable valve timing because thicker oil doesn't flow as good and can damage the variable valve timing system which is powered by the engine oil.
Also you should check your oil at least once a week and when you pull the dipstick, please smell it for fuel!!
lmao how the hell is fuel getting in the crank case?
@@Shoultes gdi engines don't hold up very well. It mainly has to do with the piston rings not being capable of keeping the fuel from seeping past the piston rings to the crankcase.
PCV Valve didn't fix our 2019 Kia Optima burning 2 quarts of oil per month. It started burning it at about 75-85K miles. At 95K miles, we decided it was time to get rid of it before it blows up or catches on fire. BTW, the 2021 Jeep Cherokee Latitude LUX is quite nice.
Add a catch can between the pcv valve and the intake manifold. You also need to do a intake valve cleaning (I used lucas complete engine treatment and add it to your engine oil every oil change, 1oz per qt of oil). Your map sensor is probably also dirty so clean it also. My car completely transformed after and so far oil consumption has improved significantly.
Great suggestions! Yes, we are trying other cleaning methods - very slow progress... I will add these to the list...
How much consumption before and after?
I've been using synthetic 5 w 30 in my 2011 Sonata. Runs a lot smoother than with 5 w 20. It only uses a quart about 3k. I change it at 4.5 k. I believe 5 w 30 should have been originally the recommended oil but car companies want 1 % more mpg and don't care how long the engines last.
I got a new engine put in and they put in and recommended 5w30 so I agree.
I am using 5-30 as well in my 16 Elantra, owners manual says it is fine.
Can you please if it's okay to use 5w30 in Canadian winter ?
@@shaikharif19 What does your cars owner manual say? So, how can you tell which oil types better for your car in cold weather climates? That’s where those numbers on the oil bottles like 10W-40 come in. The letter “W” in that number stands for “Winter”, this is related to how an oil flows when it is cold, such as at engine start-up. The second number is defined by how an oil flows at normal engine operating temperatures.
The number before it (the “10”, in this case) is the viscosity or thickness. When the cold weather comes, you want a lower number, meaning thinner oil, which will smoothly coat the insides of your engine even in the most frigid weather.
The second number is the high-temperature viscosity rating, measuring how well the oil protects your engine in those conditions. So, a 5W-30 or 0-W30 will give better protection in winter weather than, say, a 10W-40 or a 20W-50, while still providing solid high-temperature protection. That said, always follow your cars manufacturer instructions.
@@EddieLeal thank you Mr Eddie leal. My manual says 5w20 but I noticed 5w30 seems to be working much smothrt. And I am going to used 5w20 during winter times
I’ve taken these engines apart, believe it or not the rings usually looked fine, but the bottom ends were torn to shreds (bearings). I will say that the oil control rings have a strange design, they’re small and there isn’t an spring spacer in the middle of the scrapers on the oil ring, instead it’s a solid looking type thing. Wonder if that’s part of the oil consumption issue?
2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport, 2.4L uses oil like mad. I now have to keep a jug of 5W20 in the back and top it off all the time. No smoke, no leaks, new PCV valve. Little bit of oil smell when I start it.
Guy at the auto parts store told me it has a “porous block” that retains motor oil for safer startups. All I know is I’ve replaced the knock sensor twice, had the ECU update done, sucker pings like mad because GDI doesn’t allow for any cleaning on the intake, so it’s all nasty.
Last Hyundai I will ever buy, and I still have a year to pay on the dumb thing.
Try a higher octane if it's pinging, might help.
I have a 2017 same problem it started at about 60 k it was only burning about a quart every 3 k till about 90 k it was a quart every 1500 milles changed the pcv valve still burning oil I think it's about time Hyundai man's up and fix this issue. My 99 Buick leaks about half a quart every 3000 milles but no burning never buying a Hyundai ever again
That's what brought me here.
I have that same issue with my 2017 Sonata 2.0T. Started burning oil around 60K miles and now every 1k or so I add a quart. Hyundai should step up and recall these garbage engines.
My 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe has same engine burning oil with 80k miles
If u don't mind adding the oil there actually not that bad mine now has 120k still going good
Are you using gum out with every oil change? Adding it into the crankcase and gas tank? I have a catch can as well and my 2.4 purrs
Plastic PCV in plastic valve cover. It's sealed with an O ring. Tighten till you just feel it bottoming then stop.
Just watching in Feb 2024. Do you have the links you mentioned? Thank you in advance.
Cmon people. When the oil light comes on it's usually too late. Just check the dipstick frequently.
absolutely!
My son has a 2015 Sonata that burns oil. The last time he checked the oil after 3000 miles the oil was barely visible on the dipstick. No oil light came on.
I’m here with the same problem my sonata 2015 sport 155,000 is burning oil like crazy tomorrow I will buy the part thanks.
Update: While the car ran better and had more power - there was still oil consumption due to the GDI. Sorry for the bad news.
How did it go?
@@BIendtecc the car is good still burning a little but every week I move front regular gas to shell v power and also I was using regular oil I move to Castrol edge high mileage full synthetic and it helps. But remember that direct injection engine build carbon by time so that is the reason that it burn oil Keep always a 1/4 of oil in your car en always check it 1 drive 100 miles a day I check it every day 163000 miles now sonata sport 2015 no transmission or engine problem yet. Any questions feel free to ask
Every kia and Hyundai should get a BG EPR AND BG MOA every 4-5k….drastic changes when applied every oil Svc
I just changed my 2016 w 88k miles as I got tired and frustrated with having to put 2 sometimes 4 quarters of oil between oil changes. Wish I would have seen this video.
I changed my PCV value and it didn't improve my oil burning. i have a 2015 sonata
Some of you who arent sure where the oil is going, my 2015 was smelling and i would see a little smoke. Kept checking to find my gasket behind the engine on the firewall side had a space and the oil was coming out slowly being burned by the eat of the engine but almost no visual sings of leaking even after i parked. Now i see the side of the engine has dry oil down the backside. Pisses me off. Found out many people have gasket separating issues with 2015 models foem what ive read.
If the customer ran it until it only had 1 quart of oil left (he said so in the video) the rings, lifters, camshaft, and bearings are probably damaged.
How would you know?
@@CrashCarson14 One quart of oil in the oil pan is barley enough to touch the oil pickup. If you are sitting perfectly still on a flat surface it might pick it up, still it probably won't be enough to reach all the parts that need lubrication (valve train, camshaft and bearings). Once you move the car what little oil is there will drain away from the pickup and you're left with cavitation (air bubbles). Eventually lack of lubrication will even damage the oil pump.
I’m burning a quart every 350 miles 🥰
Hyundai has a oil consumption program I was in it with my 2016 Sonata. They keep saying right up to the end that I was getting a rebuilt motor then corporate said ‘no’.
There's a class action on 2022 because of Hyundai oil consumption issues.
My brother in law has this same issue. Although it was still under warranty at the time and several trips to the dealership over the issue of oil burning...corporate said no to engine replacement. Anyone that has the links for the class action lawsuit would be appreciated.
I'm having the same issue with my 2016 Hyundai Sonata Sport. Dealership giving me the runaround. My car is under full extended Warrenty, but Hyundai dealership is refusing to replace the engine. I'm burning oil every 1000 miles or so with no oil left in the engine. Very poorly made engine on Hyundai's part!
The 2.4 and 2.0 are known bad design engines. Dealers are stacking replacement long blocks like cord wood. Head down to your dealership and get your “new” engine. They are so bad that eventually Hyundai/Kia gave lifetime warranties on them. I got mine at 88k.
I have a 2017 Sonata, other than the paint falling off and oil consumption, it is a nice car. Replacing pvc valve did not help. After watching Scotty, I suspect bad seals on the cylinder, the lower ones.
Did anyone have a problem with Hyundai not honouring the warranty on the engine due to burning oil issues?
the warranty is BS.. theyll want prooof of service that you are using parts that they approved... good luck with that.. hope u always get oil changed at the dealership.
@@nyarhuyt9081 it's illegal, the manufacturer can't refuse to fulfill the warranty on this
Yes, they said I needed to pay $300+ for a combustion chamber cleaning. Which I did. They said it was maintenance so not covered by warranty. Oil consumption decreased but slowing return to having to check once a week and add oil. Now paint job is failing. Its a 2017 and paint is peeling off in several places. dime to coffee coaster size. Regretting this purchase. I Wrongly thought high mileage warranty meant a good car.
Yes, the original warranty had run out but they still denied the service to the engine. It burns about the same as what everybody's mentioning here. 2012.
If it is that bad, maybe the whole PCV system is clogged not only the valve; on my Kia Picanto the valve cover is part of the system and it was clogged, I removed it and cleaned as well as replaced the valve.
Did it help? What was your consumption before and after?
Oh my god get to it already I thought you're going to start talking about the weather pretty soon
Well it was a nice sunny day!
Do yourself a favor and replace this valve every other oil change IMO. I'm old enough to remember when these were a routine replacement EVERY oil change. With oil change intervals getting longer it seems oil quality is being stretched to the max. This is cheap insurance...
It did NOTHING BY CHANGING THE VALVE FOR ME.
It's not burning oil because it's GDI. That's a complete lie. When the engines are new they use zero oil. The issue is with internal components. Also, you tightened the shit out of that pcv valve. Should have been hand tight just using the socket. The O ring seals it easily.
Actually youre only half right. Yes it is partly because its GDI. Modern engines today burn more oil as a whole. Even consumer reports acknowledges this. But yes you are right when its the internal manufacturing defects that are on these cars.
Spending endless money !! You will pay $7000 to replace the engine , you can drain everything , or spend $50 a week pour your own oil . There's no promise it will still work .
My 2017 sonata hybrid has 200000 it started burning oil around 100000. Now it's using a quart every 500 miles. Replacing the pcv valve did nothing for mine. I think the engines are made of inferior metals. This is the first and last Hyundai I'll ever own. I did all the oil changes on time and had number one rod bearing failed at 160000. I caught it before it got bad and replaced it.
Thanks for sharing... Yes, the GDI was not a good design...
warranty is 200,000 or 10 yr now on this engine, due to recalls.. i'd look at getting compensated
Hyundai warranted engines with connecting rod failure because if a huge lawsuit. You should have gotten notified.
I’ve been through this and they did nothing but turn me away because it wasn’t “shaking “ enough! No lie!!!
My 2017 sonata hybrid has 217000 Miles and it started knocking. Now it's at the dealer and is getting a new engine under the recall. They approved it without giving me any hassle. Just fyi for anybody else out there going through this.
I think this changing pcv valve stuff is bull. I’ve got a 2021 Sportage that is starting to use oil. I’m a retired mechanic and change oil every 4,000 miles and changed the pcv valve with new and it’s still using oil! Never owned a car that at 42000 miles had oil consumption problems.
I hear you brother. GDI engines are high maintenance. If you dont stay on top of it, your engine will let you know by possibly leaving you stranded in some desolate part of the world. .And no, I agree, PCV replacement is definitely not THE solution, just a step in the right direction. As you may already know, because the PCV system is one of the major sources of carbon in the intake system, and eventually the combustion chamber, checking the PCV valve often and cleaning or replacing it as necessary will contribute towards reducing carbon deposits and preventing oil consumption. However, in this particular case, PCV replacement may not be enough to deal with the excessive oil consumption.
In carbureted and port fuel-injection engines, the fuel wash from the gasoline mist in the induction system helps keep the valves clean. In GDI engines, the gasoline is squirted directly into the cylinder, so that doesn't happen. Carbon deposits on the valves, in and of themselves, contribute more to performance-loss issues in these engines than oil-burning problems. But when those deposits slough or flake off, they can become lodged in the piston ring area, which does directly increase oil-burning. That's also why addressing oil-burning problems in GDI engines requires more than a PCV change. It requires a three-prong approach.
To start, choose an oil specially formulated for GDI engines (my current favorite being Castrol Edge Advanced Full-Synthetic GDI formula) to reduce crankcase vapors that lead to carbon problem on the valves. If your car is older (especially if it's leaking AND burning oil), consider a high-mileage oil formulated for GDI engines like Castrol Edge Advanced High-Mileage. It contains seal conditioners, as well as powerful detergents to reduce carbon deposits around the rings. In my opinion this is the oil that should be used in older car's GDI engine, by the way.
Regularly clean the induction system with a good intake cleaner like CRC, Berryman, Seafoam, or Liquid Moly, following the label instructions, before every oil change. Treat the gasoline with a good fuel cleaner that contains enough PEA to remove carbon from around the rings, like Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner, around the same time as every oil change and induction-system cleaning. The intake cleaner will also help clean around the rings, but only during its application. The Techron will keep working on the rings until the next time you fill the gas tank. If at all possible, you should consider using TOP TIER gasoline whenever possible. A study by the Automobile Association of America in 2016 revealed that non-TOP TIER gasoline produced as much as 19 times the deposits that TOP TIER gasoline did.
If you follow the above regimen religiously from the moment you buy your new, GDI-engine vehicle, chances are your car's engine won't develop an oil-burning problem. Choosing the right oil (and gasoline) minimizes the deposits, cleaning the intake system regularly removes what carbon does get on the valves, and treating the gasoline prevents the carbon that's removed from building up around the rings (as well as removing deposits from normal combustion and other causes).
If your driving consists of frequent short trips, you also should consider reducing the oil-change interval to about half the time and mileage that the manufacturer recommends (or alternatively, follow their "severe duty" recommendation for oil change intervals). Chemical breakdown and oxidation of oil components (as opposed to physical breakdown such as polymer shear), including detergent breakdown, occurs even if a car is never driven. Water contamination due to temperature changes is also a big problem with cars that are infrequently used. I hope this helps brother and take care where ever you may call home!
my 2020 kona started burning oil at 120k, i was looking where it is located , already ordered the exact same part, gonna change it hopefully tomorrrow. saw someone said it needs to be changed every 30k, might as well do that if it works.
That didn't work for me; 2014 santa fe gdi engine. Still consume 4 quarts a day on a 2hr trip, no leaks, no smokes, no nothing...mechanics were stumped, too. It runs good, but I dont know why it's burning so much like it cooks and evaporates into thin air. Im Gonna try a can of b-12 for that oil rings and see how it goes.
What happened?
Maybe checking the oil 🛢 and not waiting 🤔 for the light to come on wouldn't be a bad idea either
Did you notice any exhaust smoke due to bad PSV valve?
My Kia soul 2012 same engine and ZERO oil burning. I don't understand. PCV is the same one, original. I clean it every year.
I have a 2015 sonata SE changed the PCV valve with no change to my oil consumption with no leaks. What else could cause to burn 5 quarts of oil in a month and a half? Is this common from hyundai?
Yes you need to get ready to learn about the lawsuit. There are Facebook groups too about this. Good luck you’re in a deep pile of crap with these engines. There’s a light at the end of the tunnel, but no idea how long the tunnel is.
@@CrashCarson14 Would you happen to have a link to the group/groups?
@@lukehicks6722 just search Hyundai engine failure. Lol.
Hope Hyundai or Kia has all your maintenance records because you went to the dealer on schedule. If not, your not getting anything from them.
I hve a 2016 sonata and Ive had NOTHING but problems with it I’m literally running out of oil once a week and have no oil leaks replaced the valve cover etc n no mechanics can figure it out I’ve brought it to 4 diff mechanics I bought it used from a dealer I’m at 78k n I’m not covered under warranty idk what to do ar this point
Unfortunately Hyundai has the worst engines ever made on a newer car. Sell it before it takes a crap on you and buy a Toyota instead. The reason the engine burns oil is because of the piston rings, to fix this problem the engine has to be taken apart costing thousands of dollars.
Also noticed oil consumption on my 2013 Santa Fe Sport 2.0T, replaced the PCV valve which by the way was also evidently bad, however, it did not make a difference. The car runs smooth but still consumes oil.. any other ideas? Around the same time I also started doing the oil changes myself and switched to Full Synthetic oil, I do not think its the cause, any other things to check? Thanks in advance!
Use rislone or Marvel mystery oil..to free the piston rings
Do not overtighten. It's plastic screwing into plastic. It has a gasket. When you feel resistance
Stop.
my 2013 sonata engine looks brand new compared to that dust bowl
What is the small hose in the back that connects from the air intake to the back top of the engine? I'm trying to find what that is connected to. It looks like a small PCV but it isn't. It's allowing oil vapor to go into my air intake.
Thanks
Would this be the same for a 2011 model?
Mine does consume a lot of oil and I have noticed when I’m driving and I want to pass somebody when I hit the Excelerator grayish smoke rolls out the end
My 2018 sonata sport, I have to add 2 quarts every two tanks of fuel. I'm fucking sick of it. Also, when I go down hill or coast for a bit, afterwards when I hit the acceleration it smokes hella bad and clears up after a moment. Only when I coast for a while though. I live on a mountain so that's a lot of coast time for me.
Bro it's still gone burn oil I needed a engine it's been doing fine since they replaced the engine well I got a new engine block but you have to check your oil every week and only use synthetic oil and don't over fill it you should be fine but I know people who don't do anything to their Hyundai and it runs fine don't burn oil are anything to me it really just they luck of the draw mines lasted 6 years before my engine failed
Thanks for the video. So did this really fix the oil consumption issue or not?
Great question... immediately we noticed an increase in power - very noticeable... we topped it off with oil and are waiting... I'll let you know in a couple of weeks....
@@CarsandEspresso Excellent! Please let us know when you find out.
Cheers!
Bad news -Update: While the car ran better and had more power - there was still oil consumption due to the GDI. Sorry for the bad news. I will add this to the description of the video....
@@CarsandEspresso thanks for updating. I kind of suspected it won't work for oil consumption. But glad it helped for engine performance. Some say gasket replacement may help. Honestly I am leaning towards bad engine design and GDI itself. Oh well, it's Hyundai!
To be expected when he drove with a quart left
I have the same problem with my 2016 Sonata
Viva la 2010 one 🔥👍
Tôi ở Việt Nam, xe tôi cũng đang bị tình trạng hao dầu chưa có cách khắc phục, tôi sử dụng santafe 2017 2.4, rất mong được trợ giúp😢
I already changed the PCV valve. But still bruning
Worked for my 2015 Soul.
So did it work? Theres no follow up video
see description... sorry answer... no
My moms 2015 is burning oil, I hope the fix is as easy as this
We'll know in a week or so... let me know if this fixes yours...
@@prostreetgsxr see the notes... it gave it more power, but it still burned the same amount of oil...
Take all these burning oil cars to a auction.
Ever figure out what the actual problem was causing the oil burning?
We were going to do a valve cleaning, but the car was in an accident... so problem solved :/
Like this: ruclips.net/video/h4WXgyX1UF0/видео.htmlsi=QCDnVnh0x0LFWeRa
@@CarsandEspresso yeah, I'm in Missouri too. My moms 2016 Santa Fe Sport 2.0t is junk... dealer has been a joke since she got it. Burns a quart or so of oil every 1,000 miles and they say that's normal. Now it's beyond the 100,000 mile mark. Been crap since the 50,000 mile mark. They never fixed it. They put a new turbo in. New transmission... just crap
@@cainpaul08 this is when they first went to GDI engines... all this generation sucked... they now fixed it, but too late for these first GDIs...
Didn't help mine
How many miles did this engine have on It? - I don't think It has anything to do with the GDI - My 2016 with 26,000 miles Is using oil.
my 2015 started doing it at 28, 000. still was under 5 years warranty 2 weeks after warranty was up I went to get oil change and garage told me it was low. wasnt like that at any previous changes. Garage told me their should be a recall on them. a lot of sonatas were being reported doing that. that was in Sept. 2020. I got a paper from Hyundai to keep track of my.oil changes in December 2021. Something is definitely going on with this problem
Did it help? What was your consumption before and after?
Please see the description... yes for power but no for oil consumption
My 2009 camry le v4 is burning too much oil like emptying every 500 miles. The car is running smooth and give good mpg if i top up the oil every 300 - 500 miles. Will replacing pcv valve fix this issue ?
sorry, I don't know if that will do any good, is it a gdi? We are going to make another video where we try to clean the top of the cylinder head... we belive it is carbon build up because of the gdi...
@@CarsandEspresso it’s Toyota Camry so it’s gdi source: google
Tried this on a ‘13. No luck.
True
perhaps you can also show the owner how to check the oil level.
I think most people know. They are just to damn lazy to do it. They either dont want to get their hands dirty or they feel that their car will let them know when it needs service. Well, they wont be disappointed, will they? The car will let them know when they end up stranded in the middle of nowhere with no cell phone service. Some of life's best lessons are learned the hard way. 😉😁
They denied my warranty service telling me I was out of warranty…
You waited until the idiot light came on? You know why it's called an idiot light right? Check your frickin oil!!!!!
okay, let's try switching to Decaf!
@@CarsandEspresso Haha🤣😂 just pointing out what I found obvious. Did the PCV vakve stop the oil? I'm hoping so but doubt it if that little red light came on multiple times for that one quart left oil change.
Don't wait till the oil light comes on for god's sake, you are extremely low on oil when this happens. I know people that think that light is there to tell them to add oil, thats nuts. Some people should not own cars.
Sam issue! Did this help anyone?
see description... for us, it helped with power and stalls... but not oil consumption
Something tells me this "Genuine Hyundai" Part is not worth it.
Putting "valve" after the "PCV" is redundant, because the "V" stands doe VALVE!!!
Hey man so what else can cause the oil to disappear if not the PCV valve?
It's the GDI system... there is a carbon buildup in. the cylinders that causes this... you'll. need to take to the mechanic - sorry....
Engine Wear ? Poor Oil Quality ?
A heavier viscosity oil might help as well. Hyundai recommends SAE 5w30 on most of their engines, one of the benefits of 5w30 being increased gas mileage. But at higher RPMs 5w30 can thin out compared to say 10w30, which causes heat, wear, and potentially burns the oil. I have a 2014 Tuscon that ran amazing until about 65K miles. It started burning oil. We have a freeway that goes up a canyon and has quite a bit of elevation gain requiring high RPMs for cars to get up the canyon. I noticed after my wife would make the drive up the canyon, the engine would be bone dry. After some research, I started adding 10w30 instead of the recommended 5w30 and noticed that the car was not losing nearly as much oil.
@@DKSE123 fcked up engines no poor oil quality or shi* it's easy fcked up engines made 🤣💀
@@Indylimburg My 2015 recommends 5w20 oil, I'm going to a higher viscosity oil.
I guess it didn't fix it, he didn't pin a, " fixed", comment
I put it in the description... short version, more power and better pick up, but no that did not fix the oil consumption
Screw both hyundai and kia crappppyyy vehicles... Hondas here i comeeeeeeee
Its wast of time I will not work trust me I tried
that is not it..
But how does one know it's needed? this video is lacking any actual helpful information aside from just loading a parts bazooka.
I find it funny 😂you made a video about it fixing your issue, then added an “update” in the description stating it didn’t work…. Well delete this video! 😂
It doesn’t work