Is my PCV valve causing oil consumption? | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 7
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- Опубликовано: 2 июн 2024
- Testing the PCV valve theory.
0:00 Intro
0:58 Visiting the dealer
1:45 Replacing the valve
4:49 Putting some miles on it
5:29 Results
6:02 Coming soon
#oilburner
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If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. The creator of this content does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this RUclips channel (or other platforms) and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result. 
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Yah, PCV is a good place to start. That helped my Honda Odyssey a lot. Like nearly 3 qts every 3k miles down to 2/3 qtr every 3k miles
And the odyssey has 221k miles or so.
i'm jealous of people having their pcv valve exposed like this
Thanks for sticking to your plan Dave. Not many people would do it so transparently and systematically. So please keep going. You are nearly there!
If I may though, from chemical point of view..The rings are stuck by long chain molecules of soot and gunk. They were stuck there with heat. So to tackle this you will need chemical of shorter molecule and heat. I would start with diesel in a crankshaft. Make sure the engines hot, but sparks disconnected. Let it soak turn over soak turn over. Drain. Then 50/50 diesel-petrol in a crankshaft. Same scenario, no spark but hot engine. Drain. Then petrol and kerosene mix with added splash of toluene. Or any other non polar solvent. Let soak rock back and forth and drain. I wouldn't add anything caustic to clean it, but perhaps a little bit added to the first two runs can't do much damage.
All of this is extremely dangerous if done improperly. But if you want to you'll think of safe (ish) way of doing it.
Either way don't stop till you got it!
Good luck!
Thanks for the encouragement, advice, and suggestions lipeeno!
I change my pcv valve every year, along with my air/fuel filters; super cheap insurance🤷🏽♂️
Can’t wait to see the next video.
158k miles 2l soul running very strong with replaced spark plugs, coils and pcv valve, no more oil consumption, purchased part from amazon for $13, same with my kids sportage 2.4l
To really clean up the oil rings you get to take out the pistons. Yeah, might as well change the piston rings and valve-stem seals. It;s going to be a huge project!!! Keep us informed. Thks!
Why dis-assemble the engine? Why not use BG 109 EPR which will remove the carbon from the piston rings and piston skirt. I have a 1987 Volvo 760 with 215,000 miles. I used BG 109 EPR about 2.5 years ago. The BG 109 cleaned the piston rings; zero oil consumption now.
@@michaelchitwood5566monsieur j'ai une Corolla 2008 2C avec un moteur pompe mécanique . J'ai Un peu de fumée sur la juge de huile . Que poncé vous de cette cas . Est ce que ce genre de moteurs à un valve PCV ?
@@michaelchitwood5566 i bet it just needs new valve stem seals.
Right. You mean in car overhaul. I did it once to my 1988 Nissan Z24 pickup, many years ago. I removed the cylinder head and replaced w a remanufactured one, and while it was off I pulled off the oil pain, unbolt all the connecting rods and slid out the pistons. Then I cleaned the ring lands - which were really not very dirty at all even with 200K miles. And installed new rings, after honing the bore. It took me 3 solid days of work but ran like new for a long time.
I tried all of your methods to fix my 07 Scion tC 2azfe oil burning engine (known issue with poor piston ring design) without success. I was burning 1 quart of oil every tank of gas (250 miles) until I tried Berryman B12 Chemtool #0116 ($4 a can at Walmart) as piston soak. Oh man! B12 fixed my oil burning issue! U gotta try this out! My piston rings finally free up and sealed again! Here’s how I did it:
-Get 2 cans of Berryman B12 Chemtool #0116
-1 quart of NONE Synthetic ATF(cheapest u could find from Walmart)
-Run your engine to normal operating temperature, take out all your spark plugs.
-Pour 2oz of B12 in each cylinder until u use up half the can. Let it soak for 30mins. (hot soak)U will noticed the B12 will boil up and evaporate quickly inside the cylinder
-set your car to Neutral
-get a 19mm socket and ratchet on the crank bolt and turn the motor over by hand slowly for 5, 6 rotations. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP! VERY IMPORTANT! turning motor by hand is the ONLY way to get the B12 pass your piston rings and into the ring lands (grooves)! Cranking motor with ignition WILL NOT WORK!
-pour 2 more oz of B12 into the each cylinder until u use up the 1st can of B12 and let it sit overnight for 24 hrs
-after 24 hrs of piston soaking, most of the B12 will drained down to your oil pan or evaporated. open the 2nd can of B12 and pour 2oz in each cylinder again (this time is for cold soak)
-turn the motor by hand again for 5, 6 rotations, u will notice the B12 will drain down much faster
this time with the cold soak.
-Shine a light into the cylinder every time after u turn the motor by hand 1 full rotation and check for B12 fluid on piston, if the cylinder is a bit low, add more B12 to that cylinder until u use up the 2nd can
-let it sit for 8 hrs this time
-after 8 hours of cold soaking. There should a lot of B12 fluid left in each cylinder and it’s time to extract them out!
-u could use a hand pump, Syringe, or Vacuum to get the fluid out of each cylinder but I have none of those. I extracted them out by cranking the ignition!
-unplug the fuel pump fuse or relay from the fuse box
-put a rag on top of each spark plug hole and crank the motor. Fluid will fly out the cylinder and as well as loose carbon! I MEAN LOTS OF CARBON!
-makesure u crank off ALL the fluids out of each cylinder
-add 2 teaspoons (or 1/2 oz) of ATF in each cylinder for lubrication and final stripping of the left over carbon
-reinstall the sparking plugs, coils and fuel pump fuse. Let it sit for 6 hrs (ATF cleanup remaining carbon after all the B12 soaking)
-now it’s time to start the car, it will crank for a while until the fuel builds up pressure and start finally( it took me 15 mins of cranking)
-car will smoke badly, give a few revs and go for a drive immediately!
-drive the car in 3rd gear at highway speeds above 5000rpm with occasionally redline and engine braking by releasing the gas pedal for 20 mins (this will help burn off the loose carbon in the ring lands and oil holes and seal the piston rings tighter while they’re free)
-after 20 mins of driving, go home and do a oil change to get rid of the B12 and ATF might be inside of your engine
Did this to my 2azfe engine with burning 1 qt of oil every 250 miles to burning NO OIL at all in 3000 miles. This B12 is a super strong chemical that rips the carbon apart! I highly recommend u try this method
That's a whole lot of steps
I guess ig u got time & place to do all those steps its great..i live in an Apt complex, i can't go through all those steps.. That's alot of steps..
@@livnadchampley9663 it’s not that hard if u watch his seafoam piston soak videos. It’s the same steps but it required u to use a 19mm socket on the crank bolt with the car in Neutral then turn the motor clock rise to let the chemicals slowly drip down pass the piston into the piston rings area and holes. B12 will strips most of the carbon inside but u need the 3rd gear going redline at 60mph highway driving in order to burn them off. U can’t skip this very important step. Redline going 60mph for 20mins is an Italian tune up and let the gasoline spray from your injectors at your piston top and B12 in your motor oil do their CLEANING job. Once u did at all, change to fresh oil right away and feel the difference it makes.
Lol. Grown men here can’t follow directions and do more than 3 steps. You sound like my 15 year old daughter. His method sounds like a good plan, you want your situation fixed or not? It’s not rocket science
3:30, Just in case anybody asks, the Torque specification is 22 Foot-Pounds.
Many moons ago, the blowby or crankcase fumes were vented to the atmosphere via a rubber tube running from the crankcase to the atmosphere. Along comes the EPA that said that was a no-no. Alas, the PCV valve was born, which directs the blowby gases back into the engine to be burned.
I also did the PCV replacement, plus the associated hoses
just did mine on my 07 avalon . seems to have helped.
Had a friend that had same issue on his 1995 Saturn SL2. He decided to make the vehicle a fun little drag car with a few simple bolt ons, and nitrous with a 50 shot, after about 4-5 fun run events, 6-8 passes on each event the nitrous somehow fixed his oil burning issue. At least that’s what we all assumed along with beating the mess out of the car.
Great story, Jason. That would definitely be the most enjoyable way to unstick rings :-)
Lmao 5:37 so relatable. Just finished giving my car a wash and here i am walking back to it after seeing this.
VW/Audi has an Oil/Air Separator that works in conjunction with the PCV valve. If the PCV valve is stuck closed then the extra pressure in the crankcase pushes oil up the Oil Separator and througj the intake manifold causing white blue smoke at the tailpipe....this is often overlooked and mistakenly diagnosed for bad valvestem seals or piston ring blowby. To rule out piston rings do compression test first. PCV valve is very cheap so before tearing down the head for a valve stem seal replacement first do the PCV valve and clean the oil air separator as well as all the ventilation pipes on the engin.... in turbo charged cars a seized or malfunctioning turbo can also cause oil consumption and white smoke
Currently working my way through these videos from the seafoam treatment.
I think before changing the pcv valve I would have installed a catch can to monitor the amount of oil lost through it.
You would have installed a catch can instead of replacing a 9 dollar part?
@@joshw7974 I think it pretty clearly says ‘before’, not ‘instead of’.
I even explained why; my suggestion was to help further the information gathering that was the driving force behind this whole series.
It’s almost like you paid no attention whatsoever before replying.
I am finding this approach helpful, My issue is which in a series of small repairs do you do first?, it all needs cleaned up from the oil literally being blown everywhere (multiple little things went on the same ride), the thermostat, the pcv, cracked injector, the fan, and everything that got messy and gunked from the oil. I'm sure there's more issues yet to find but I can't determine what. Tips please, please (it's older car I love and live way out in the woods, I gotta do what I can) it's about 6 more mos till I can get another car (and pass this one to one of the kids)
G'day Dave I've been going thru the same shit with my missos Mazda 3, had a mechanic check it out and diagnose it as rings, have been running 15-40 fill synthetic since and it's not burning any noticeable amount
Yeah I think when you did the first sea foam treatment and showed improvement should have done a couple motor medic engine flushes maybe 4-5 then sea foam then drive to repeat test
Start by pouring brake cleaner and paint thinner down the cylinder through the sparkplug holes. Wait a day or two to seep through. Then pour in the same holes ATF to lube the cylinders that are now dry and without oil. Wrench all back together. Change the oil and the filter. Run the car, sometimes it disloges the top piston rings and cleans the bottom rings' oil channels. Try as a last resort before overhauling the engine.
ATF is a mineral oil. It does not have the same properties as motor oil does to protect against engine wear from friction and heat. Brake cleaner does not work well as a penetrating oil either. Your recommendation may work over doing nothing to an engine that has already been destroyed. But I would never try this unless you plan to overhaul the entire engine very soon.
If you want to get a better result, use a penetrating oil and Marvel mystery oil instead of ATF. ATF is high detergent and not recommended for engines for a reason. I have seen people try to fix a stuck lifter by using the “ATF trick” only to end up spinning rod bearings and putting significant cylinder wall damage from the lack of oil protection from the rings. By all means, don’t use any of these as a replacement to motor oil. Use as an additive in sparing amounts.
Is that a joke or for real
@@RyanJones-rg4ly In 1957 GM had a problem with the compression rings sealing on new cars. The dealers were instructed to take the filter lid off and rev the engine while pouring Borax in the intake. There are many things that wouldn't make sense to most that works.
IH or International Harvester had a ring problem and were told at the dealer to add ATF 1 of 4 quarts to the engine. ATF has extra detergents in the additive package, these high detergents help break down the carbon on stuck Oil Control rings.I would consult Amsoil for an additive myself. BG is another reputable brand. Retired 3G mechanic. Be safe out there.
ruclips.net/video/VU-oMZjCHDw/видео.html
Next comment down is interesting
"@jasonpipkin8060 2 years ago Had a friend that had same issue on his 1995 Saturn SL2. He decided to make the vehicle a fun little drag car with a few simple bolt ons, and nitrous with a 50 shot, after about 4-5 fun run events, 6-8 passes on each event the nitrous somehow fixed his oil burning issue. At least that’s what we all assumed along with beating the mess out of the car.
Presente en las aventuras de mecánica automotriz desde Navojoa Sonora México recibe mi poderoso like
Let's see that engine rebuild
Im surprised you have not ran compression tests on this. Compression and leak down would tell the exact issues
Probably the most cost affective thing for reducing oil consumption is the high mileage oil.
I'd bet you would be near 700 miles per quart.
As that's what I have found in the autos I've swiched to it.
What happened with the real thin Pennzoil the 0 30 did that help at all ?
Good luck with the valve stem seals. Make sure to check for valve guide play.
Thanks, Chris. Is there a way to check for play without removing the head?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Not sure, but depending on the method you use so the valve don't drop to the combustion chamber, you could lower the valve a bit and see if it has excessive play. If you have, you might consider replacing the guides. But probably just try the stem seals first to see if they work without pulling the head.
in the same situation. Got o get the 4l60e in the sierra so I can rebuild the 88 4.3 s10 . lots of luck from Bama !
Thanks!
Previous video in this series:
Compression test: ruclips.net/video/T6yeIOL8ifE/видео.html
Next video in this series:
Will Bar's Leak stop the oil use?: ruclips.net/video/aYPCkNMw2mY/видео.html
Entire oil burning experiment playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj
They didn't have the PCV valve for my Camry at the Toyota dealership either. It seems odd-common tune-up item. How many different PCV valves go in Toyotas, like about 4?
If you have a 07 to 13 Chevy Silverado the pcv is built into the valve cover. Go ahead and replace both valve covers while you're at it. This will fix your oil consumption problem.
It’s an older engine, it’s safe to use heavier weight oil to slower the burning rate.
I think it depends on how old it is because engines that have turbochargers or variable valve-timing/ cam-timing need the recommended oil; using heavier oil can cause problems.
So, 6 lbs, maybe, 8 lbs instead of 4?
@@seanwatts8342 I'm pretty sure he means a higher viscosity oil, my sonata 2.0t uses 5-30w but can go up to 5-40w with no problem
@@XAMPOL I know what he meant. I was being facetious. It's counter intuitive but higher viscosity oil increases oil burning.
Very nice its useful
I feel your pain
Love that Fit!
Thanks!
Did you somehow rule out scored cylinders?
Looking forward to the valve seal video!
Thanks, Craigie, and got mixed views on the scoring. Some think they're scored, some think they look good.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Scoring would be straight up and down, cross thatching would be diagonal lines.
I'll be replacing my PCV valve and doing a piston soak with MMO shortly, My 2006 LExus GS300 went from consuming 1L/1200km to 1L/400km.
I'd strongly recommend switching to redline motor oil. It really seems to breath life back into a well used motor. I went from burning 5 liters or oil every 5000km to burning zero over 20,000km
I'm going to have to look into that, Roger. Thanks!
@roger Bacon, may I know what oil ratio do you use? like is it 10w40? or?
Where u get it at
Where you get that at
I keep seeing this comment about redline oil, or a very similar one. 🤔 almost seems like an ad
Are you going to first replace the valve stem seals and then the rings? Or both at the same time? Maybe nicer, but more work, to do it seperatly so we can see what really works?
I plan on keeping them separate, Ebo. Like you said, to see what really works. The valve-stem seals will probably be the next video on this car. Then after that is ruled out (IF it is ruled out) I've got another chemical or two I want to try before I do the rings (if I have to), just to show whether or not chemicals can unstick rings. (Again, IF stuck rings are the culprit.) Thanks for the comment, Ebo!
If it is indeed the piston rings, do you not have any smoke out the tailpipe?
How is the acceleration of the car and general power?
I don't have smoke out of the tail-pipe under acceleration, Charandeep. Except for a single recent start where I saw a puff of smoke, the only time it smokes is if I rev it for more than a minute or so, and I wonder if that's because it's burning the oil out of the catalytic converter. Thanks for the comment!
Do you still plan to use the Shooter Lube? I'm curious to see if it really cleans carbon like it does on their ads.
I do still plan to use it, MyBrotherScout ... probably right after the valve-stem seal video.
What about an Italian tune up?
If you clean it or replace it, will the oil leaks stop (if that is the issue).
Can you test if the valve is good are bad?
Nice work
Thanks :-)
I’m curious what you’ve done, if anything with this car, I’ve been a toyota technician for the last 5 years and I’m thinking if you can get your hands on some BG EPR and run that through the crank case for a little while and then do an oil change with the BG MOA, that would be a great place to start as the piston rings are going to be a lot more work to replace
I've tried a few different chemicals in a few different videos, Zachary. BG might be on the horizon. Part of the aim of these videos is to see if any of the chemicals do work and can save folks from a re-ring. Thanks for the comment!
Don't you mean "B.G. EPR"? Stuff that comes in a can and claims miracles?
Most dealerships never have basic parts. That's more than just burning oil, it's like you have a major leak.
Hi Dave. First, big thanks for sharing with us your knowledge and experiences, it is awesome. I Have a question please about my PCV on my CLS 63S. WHen i 'm pusing the gaz in neutral gear position to 4000trm it takes a lot of time to go down back at 1000trm. The engine idle looks perfect, there is no self variation up and down. No oil consumption too. So do you thing the PCV valve could be the reason why please ?
I don't think so. Has it always done that? I know some cars have a rev-hang programmed into their ECUs. It's supposed to help with the emmissions caused by suddenly cutting off fuel. If it's not that, it sounds like a possible vacuum leak.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY thanks a lot for your answer and your Time..witch vacuum are you thinking about please ?
Just randomly stumbled upon your video. If it leaks like a lot after doing every possible thing other then an engine overhaul. I would just drive it as is and just keep topping it off. No more oils changes but get a high mileage filter and change that only.
This is VERY bad advice.
Bad advice? Thats debatable. It leaks so much to the point it always has fresh oil. Why do an oil change on oil that's still fresh from constant top offs? Rings on the piston could be so worn it just goes right through it. At that point a rebuild could be in order but not everybody wants to fork out that kind of money.
grommets and spark plug gasket?. Usually a valve cover gasket kit
Thank you
I enjoy your videos.
I have a 2002 Toyota echo with 250k, I just got a check engine light with infamous code P0420. Which basically means I have a bad catalytic converter.
I add a quarter of a quart every 250 miles. Does burning so much oil kill the catalytic converter ? I appreciate your videos because they help me diagnose what is going wrong with my engine. I bought it with a little over 200,000 and I know for a fact that the previous owner was not on top of maintenance. I have done a couple engine flushes and use Pennzoil 5-30 synthetic high mileage oil.
I’m thinking I’m going to 10W-30 and possibly using Lucas low viscosity oil additive. What do you think of those options? Any help would be appreciated.
I live in San Diego so I do not get extreme cold. Thanks !
Thanks Hector. Yes, burning oil does eventually clog up your catalytic converter. You might be able to lessen the symptoms with thicker oil, but that won't actually fix the problem. I'm really not sure what works yet (if anything); that's why we're doing these experiments. But I'm getting a lot of good suggestions of other methods and chemicals in the comments, so you might want to check them out. I'll be trying more eventually. Hopefully we'll get this figured out on camera and everyone will know what to do. All the best with your Echo! I feel your pain!
PCV was the problem on my Camry
Wow, watching all your videos feel like you've spent more money on oil than the car is worth. I hope you find the fix one day. 172k miles doesnt seem a lot for a Toyota.
Compression test, then leak down test. You said you did a test? What were the numbers? Did you proceed with a wet test to verify where the low compression was coming from? Was the engine hot when you did this? Rings worn as bad as yours seem, should be very clear in a proper compression test...
Things to relieve bad oil control rings: 1) adjustable PCV - this might be the simplest solution to reduce consumption caused by stuck control rings.
2) increase crankcase vacuum somehow. I used a line running from a vacuum port on the intake to one I made on the pcv valve it self. Makes it more sensitive to vacuum changes. Reduced oil consumption by half. But still have the problem.
Adding a catch can will help keep the carbon from building up, and save your cats, after you've reduced the consumption. Over time, hopefully, just changing the oil and using something like seafoam once in awhile will clean the pistons up.
Other than this, if they've gone too far, the only way to clean them is out of the engine.
I'm guessing a headlight cleaning video is somewhere in the future.
Haha. ... I think I'll pass on that one. Plenty out there already :-)
Hi there!
In Sweden we use the the wd40 trick for old Saabs with stuck Piston rings
WD-40 never crossed my mind, Claus. I'll need to check that out!
Tell me more! My i think my SAAB have this problem.
What to do?
Is the bad piston ring design in 2azfe only for cars made in USA or does it apply to Japan VIN also?
I'm not sure. I saw they happen in 2007 to 2009 cars, is that right? I haven't looked much into that one.
On newer cars I don't know when they started the pcv valve doesn't give the oil burning (sucking) problems that it used to
When a car burns oil accelerating, it's the piston rings. If it burns on deceleration, it's the valve seals.
So have someone follow me and if they see smoke when I'm accelerating then it's piston rings and vice versa? How else to check?
Eating oil on deceleration can be valve stem seals or oil control piston rings imho.
How about the tfsi engine accelarating no smoke, decelatrating little normal smoke? No black smoke but soothy black at tailpipe do you think its a turbo seal leak?
What if it smokes blue randomly for a few seconds on traffic stop ? What could it be ?
Is ur car works fine after pcv value changed
Not the piston rings at fault, it's the oil drain holes behind the oil scrapper rings are too small and easily get clogged up - the mod is to drill out the holes and add extra holes - see youtube vids
I hope before all these dipstick measurements you are allow some time for the added oil to flow down to the oil pan.
And did he start the engine to allow the oil to fill up the oil filter … i always start the car and alway have to add more oil from what goes into the filter and stays there…. You know this because when you change oil the filter always has oil in it and pours out while unscrewing it.
What's the old one bad ?
Drove my car for years! Just keep adding oil
waiting for valve stem video :)
You and me both!
I have an 02 as well with 95, 000 miles and no issue yet, what do you think is best oil or additive to use to prevent this problem before it happens?
just change the oil regularly. in short intervals. every 5000 miles so the piston rings wont get clogged
@@ynonser5804 Yep , thats what I've always done and will continue to do.
@@kennethscofield4565 great. 👍👍
2:21 LOL.... I bet that went straight in between two things you couldn't get your fingers in.
ha ha ... that's the way it usually is at least.
Guess I'm gonna have to get a spare vehicle and finally have the rings changed cuz I've tried everything for my vitz.
This ain't over yet, KingdomMan. ;-) We may still find an easier fix. ... The car is just in case :-)
1:24 As a parts salesman in a Toyota dealership for over 30 years, I can say that it isn't that odd.
Ah. Good to know :-)
Can you try oven cleaner? I used it on 3 dissasembled engines for now to clean piston rings (and everything else) in about 30 minutes of soaking, came out totaly new, I'm not joking. It eat's carbon like crazy, but don't leave it for a long time, because it dissolves alluminium, max 1.5h. It fixed my oil compsumption from 1l/400km to over 1l/5000km..
That's an intriguing idea, Denis. I'll seriously have to look into that one! Any certain brand?
You do understand that if you have to dissasemlble the engine, there is no reason for "magic liquids". You can fix it easily when torn apart. The whole point is to avoid opening the engine. Come on.... COME ON!
Hi Dave, following your oil problem, your videos are great. I have a 2000 corolla 7AFE (model 1997 in USA) mine burns around 1.5L (1.5quarter) every 5000km (3000miles) but it is getting worst. I saw another video where they soaked injector cleaner on the cylinder (through spark plug opening) like in your first seafoam video. Most comments said it worked for them. If you let me I will send you the link. Looking forward to your next video. Greatings from Oz.
Thanks, Edward! ... and sure, reply with the link!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY here the link ruclips.net/video/eRc7PO-x_s8/видео.html like in your video "I poured Seafoam straight into my cylinders!" taking out the fuses and the sparkplugs before cranking it is REALLY important. Your idea to level all pistons to soak them is excellent. I do think injector cleaner is better than Seafoam motor treatment when pour direct to the pistons. what else could be used to clean burnt/baked oil?
wow metal
I live in Kitchener Ontario Canada. The exact same part just cost me $46 …..why is that?
A quart of oil for going only 370 miles, that is a big problem. you need a fifty gallon drum of oil hooked up to a pic line to feed the engine with oil.
Rear camber adjustment the hard way.
That looks like a lot of oil usage, does it look like a two-stroke when being followed ???? Next step 20-50 oil???
Yay 😀
have you lost the engine cover ? or do you prefer to leave it off ???
Did this year have a cover? I bought it used -- didn't have a cover when I got it.
Dude, that’s a bummer I was hoping it was pcv.
Sorry to disappoint, Lupe.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY that’s ok maybe your valve job will resolve it. If not maybe you’ll have a top end overhaul or rings done.
@@lupegalvan9993 yep. One way or another it’s going to get fixed. Thanks again for the comments, Lupe!
No I'm done I'll check back with you in a year or so
There has to be more to the PCV system than that. That hose doesn’t (does it?) run straight to the intake. There has to be an oil separator somewhere in between.
That's it ... though people keep recommending I install a catch can.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY You’ve convinced me it’s the pistons. I’ve looked at a lot of other info. But! It would make a cool video just measuring how much is coming through the PCV. Plug the hole in the intake. Connect a makeshift catch can to the PCV.
Go down the cylinders with a bore scope, I think you'll find some cylinder scoring
I did scope them Tommy. Would love to hear your opinion on the cylinders. It was hard for me to assess. ruclips.net/video/A398v3j67Jw/видео.html
hello! i have 2011 forester and it burns like crazy, someone told me about pcv can help reduce burning oil but I guess they're wrong.. i tried playing with heavy oil from 0w-20 FS which is the recommended oil to 5w-40 full synth and from mobile 1 to Rotella to Castrol.. nothing really works
Good info Melvin. Thanks for that!
On my 2010 civic, if was a pain.
Leak down test
why not try to consult with scotty kilmer ?
the antifreeze does not circulate completely through the engine, the oil evaporates
At this point I would just throw in a thicker oil (5w-40 or 10w-40) to try and slow the consumption down and save a bit.
I hear ya. Thanks for the comment!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY NEVER! I MEAN NEVER USE A THICKER OIL FOR THESE TOYOTA 4 CYLINDERS!
THICKER OIL RUNS THE CHANCE OF PLUGGING OIL PASSAGES AND TIMING CHAINS on these low viscosity 0w20/5w20 specced Toyotas. This leads to oil starvation which can put you at risk of blowing your engine Up. THIS IS DUE TO TOYOTA'S NARROW TIMING CHAIN TOLERANCES within these four cylinder engines. These modern cars aren't like the large clearance engines of the 1960s that can afford to risk running thicker oil. Just keep engine flushing by putting MMO or Seafoam into the crankcase every oil change or do ANOTHER ENGINE FLUSH until the oil-burning clears up. But it may be your valve stem seals like other commenters have recommended. If it if it is indeed your rings instead of the valve stem seals you could probably use a more robust oil OF THE SAME VISCOSITY that Toyota recommends for your vehicle. I recommend trying PENNZOIL ULTRA PLATINUM motor oil since it works as highly resistant to burning due to it's Group 3+ base stocks. You could also could try adding some liquid moly ceratec ceramic compound to your motor oil /and, or Blue devil engine restore oil additive has also had high reviews as well.
I enjoy your videos on the Toyotas keep it up.
@@William-13 Thanks for all the advice! I’m with you on the oil viscosity too. Thicker oil can also mess up variable valve timing systems. We ran some Lucas in my daughter’s accord and it threw a vtec code and lost power. I think we agree it’s better to fix the problem than mask the symptoms.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY No problem. It could possibly be fuel dilution as well? Have you checked your fuel trims via a scan tool? They should be at or near zero
@@William-13 I'd love to get my hands on a scan tool, but don't want to break the bank. Know of any good "budget" scan tools?
My previous Civic had 500 000 km, never touched that valve, is this more for modern cars?
PCV valves became mandatory in the US in 1967 … 1961 in California.
It isn't enough to replace the PCV valve, sometimes the whole system needs to be cleaned; the valve cover is part of the PCV system and it gets clogged in the inside compartment. The only way to clean it is to remove the valve cover and soak it in cleaner and run the hose through it; I had to do that once with our Kia because it was blowing oil everywhere .
Way cheaper than the full engine rebuild or patch up repair
I already changed the PCV valve on my car. But still bruning.
that wasNt a ‘smige’ it was 1.53247 smidges.☹️ NEhU, wat happens if oil is leaking from crank case through pcv valve?, would 1 drop block the vapors, or the vapors drive past it?-🤔
dealerships barely keep parts for vehicles older 4 years
You are looking at this the wrong way, you have a car that never needs an oil change, just keep topping it off! :)
I know, right?
Wow, for $9 that was an awesome elimination video!!!! Thanks.
Put a quart of Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer
you gotta start engine and turn off, and then you ll see oil is low then put more then start car until is fill
We seen your compression, seafoam, mmo, engine flush tests and this video. If all else fail, can you test Nano GLAY? Using graphene and we have good results with compression and oil burning (Audi cars). Probably need to use 2 packs separately due to high oil burn rate.
Looks interesting. Are you, or do do you work for the maker?
The makers are the Koreans. Sorry, couldn’t resist commenting after watching all your videos. We are selling in SG and have good results here. But not too sure if it would help lots for your case because your oil burn rate is high.
Can’t go wrong with oem
Compression and/or leak down test....
Just a check valve
Let me know it's not going to cost that much because I won't go to a dealership to purchase
... cette voiture consomme autant d'huile que le McDonald's de mon quartier !😂
10w 40?