Testing HobbyWing 9044 controller current and looking for the shunt to mod.

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  • Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024

Комментарии • 21

  • @wagnerbrochini3892
    @wagnerbrochini3892 13 дней назад

    Hello! A little off topic here, but is it possible to program a "creeping function" (like automatic vehicles do, once you lift your foot from the brakes they start slowly rolling even if you don't press the throttle)? Thanks in advance!

    • @imho7250
      @imho7250  13 дней назад

      @@wagnerbrochini3892 generally not possible on most controllers because that would require a throttle signal above 0% without turning the throttle, which will trigger the throttle error if you turn on the key. Every OEM controller will not run the motor if the throttle is held open and then the ignition is turned on.
      I think the only practical reason to have “creep” is for some form of “hill hold” function that keeps you from rolling backwards if you are stopped going uphill and need to release the brakes to get going but don’t want to start rolling backwards.
      What is the purpose you want to get “creep”? Maybe there is another way to achieve that function without actually having “creep”.

    • @wagnerbrochini3892
      @wagnerbrochini3892 13 дней назад

      @@imho7250 thanks for the fast response as always! The main idea behind this creep function would be to emulate idling of a combustion engine (for accessory activation, like the air conditioner compressor, oil pump, steering pump and such)

    • @imho7250
      @imho7250  13 дней назад

      @@wagnerbrochini3892 , in an EV you can’t drive the accessories off the main motor. You need and electric air conditioner compressor, electric power steering booster, and DC/DC converter instead of an alternator.
      If you are converting an ICE vehicle to electric and wanting all the original engine driven accessories to work, you would need to keep the clutch, either manual or the viscous coupling of the torque converter and and waste lots of power. This means the battery needs to ve bigger for the same range which cost more than just making a proper conversion.
      I have never heard of any controller designed to let an electric motor emulate an ICE motor, starting and then idling at 1000 rpm or so and then accelerating from there.
      This could be hacked by placing a switch in the throttle signal line, which you must open before turning in the ignition so the controller will not get an open throttle error, then as soon as the controller is booted up, close the switch and have the throttle setting in the controller set 0.2v-0.6v below the minimum throttle signal (typically 0.8v-0.9v for hall sensor type throttle).

    • @wagnerbrochini3892
      @wagnerbrochini3892 13 дней назад

      @@imho7250 Yes, when you try to do things as cheap as possible, sometimes having a slightly bigger battery will be less expensive than having proper equipment to run everything, even though wastes are definitely there.
      Nonetheless, you gave me a great idea, I could very well do that with a relay that only activates the throttle with the actual ignition position of the fob.
      Can you confirm that, if there's no input on the throttle, the controller will turn on normally and work if that voltage becomes present later on?

    • @wagnerbrochini3892
      @wagnerbrochini3892 13 дней назад

      Actually the idea is to have some form of hybrid car that can start on the electric motor alone and drive up to a certain speed in the electric mode. At some given rpm the combustion engine will take over and start recharging batteries. Some pretty rudimentary idea that I plan to develop on