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@@69Savage. , what did you do to “tune” your Fardriver?

@@nicod974 this video was mostly about controller theory, and as you say, moat people, just like Flat Earth believers, will believe anything without taking time to learn basic engineering. I did two videos with my VESC controller to show the effect of increasing battery voltage, which absolutely NO ebike controller can do, and another video showing what happens with a constant voltage and adding field weakening. Unfortunately some people have absolutely ZERO comprehension of these two entirely different ways to get higher motor speed, and will say something so ridiculous like “The Farfriver increases voltage to weaken the field”, so they misunderstood the basics from the fardriver. As you say, very few people have the test equipment to PROVE the Fardriver doesn’t increase dc voltage, but anyone who understands basic electronics understands you need a specific group of components to increase the DC voltage. And if you look inside any EBIKE controller, none of them have the needed components. So the same way we can look at ANY contraption claiming perpetual motion with no outside energy source, we know its total nonsense so all we need to do is look for how the external energy source is being hidden. Does a person need to know exactly how a controller does field weakening? Not really. Same way a person doesn’t really need to understand WHY the Earth is a sphere and orbits the Sun. Or that the Earth’s MOON is what causes high and low tide, not the SUN. Tuning any real controller properly, without any sophisticated equipment, does require the person understands what each setting is really doing, at least the end result of changing any setting. You can’t see what the actual PID control is doing to current without special equipment, but you can hear and feel the effects of the current control loop being unstable. There absolutely ZERO RUclips videos showing how to tune a Fardriver. There are many basic setup videos. But NONE show how to tune one. And the reason is the battery and motor, rider weight, rider risk tolerance (and amount of cash willing to burn), all get factored in. So even if you and I bought the exact same ebike, our ideal tune would be different because France is cold and Philippines is 26C at 8:30 pm. You might have hills nearby, I don’t. You might be willing to go a bit faster and accelerate harder even if the odd of burning the motor are 50% higher while I might want to keep risk tolerance down. I have thought about making and advanced setup guide, but it would include a lot of extra deep dives. Such as difference between 60 degree and 120 degree commutation, or motor encoder instead if standard hall sensors. Thats just for setting #1. Then explaining temperature sensors, how to know if your motor has one, and how to set it correctly, and how to use CACU and calibrate it if your motor has no temperature sensor. Im way too lazy to make that video. Lol. If I were in the US, i would possibly help a RUclipsr who loves to talk and edit videos but has no idea whats going on. But the video would be very long. For now, I just do mini topics. If this video makes people say “you are full of 💩, i will research each thing online to prove you wrong!!”, then the objective will have been met because they will in fact read the free fardriver manual, they will research what is needed to boost DC current. They will learn the basic cause of back EMF. Unfortunately many will just go cry to their RUclips hero and ask them to come at me, but they won’t on the topic because everything here is basic facts. They believe the Earth is Flat and there is no changing their mind because they refuse to learn anything. Lol

Nicely balanced.

@@technologicalsingularity1788 its hard to say because it came inside the battery box of a $300 ebike, but was very weak so I removed it from the battery box and sliced personal the shrink wrap to see whats going on. Inside I found they used a 13s5p battery kit, but only populated 2 of the 5p, so it was a 13s. Then, since the holders and nickel strips were all already there, i simply bought 39x more 18650 and added them. Keeping the original 15a dumb bms. That is shown in this video: ruclips.net/video/XogyEthUxFc/видео.htmlsi=29GqWwowU0X0e1o5 After that of course it did much better of course but somewhere along the way I went to charge it and it would not fully charge to 54.6v, so i opened it again and found a low cell group and manually charged that group with my hobby charger, then it would charge to 54.6 and go into balance maintenance. Later, i bought the smallest ANT bms made (7s-16s 80a/200a) and that just barely fit inside the battery box. This was so I can use larger controller than 15a and see whats going on inside my battery, and also be ready for a battery upgrade later. So I installed that and then was able to see what was really going on. I noticed after letting the ANT balance the cells to 0.000v at the top, when i give full throttle, once cell group sagged noticeably more than the others. And as i drained the pack, that same cell group at rest was showing a lower and lower voltage compared to the others cell groups. With dumb BMS it would have be a headache to figure this out. Basically you could only top charge it, reassemble it, discharge it, disassemble it, and manually read each cell group. But otherwise you have no way. This is why all my ebike batteries use a Bluetooth BMS. So i did find and replace that dead cell, it was actually one of the liito kala cells. Lucky i had a spare. After that its differential under load was more reasonable and also stays within reason as the battery got near empty. So then I installed a 27a controller and the battery worked very well for that, because the cells were real world rated 5a continuous, 10a peak, so with 5p its. 25a continuous 50a peak battery, so i set the ANT bms to allow 25a continuous and 26a-50a for 30 seconds (for acceleration). And it worked fine. But then I bought a 2000w motor, same diameter as the original motor (150mm) but it had wider magnets (30H vs 23H) and fewer turns. Just guessing but maybe original motor was 16 turns with only 6 strands of wire, and the new motor has 3 turns with 40 stands of wire. This net effect was the motor kT dropped in half, so now the 27a of the new controller only gave the similar acceleration to the old motor with 15a. But the kV was much higher so now instead of 33kph top speed, it would go 50 kph on 48v. The next step was to install a Fardriver 72360, and set it to 60a max DC with an rpm limit to pull it down to 25a, then i set the ANT bms to allow 30a continuous and 31a-70a peak for 30 seconds. Now i got double the acceleration of the original ebike, and a decent top speed. Bur at this point i had a motor rated at 40a continuous, 120a peak battery amps, and a controller that can go to 190a DC, but a weak battery, so i made a 16s5p Molicel P42a pack to replace this 13s5p pack, so it can handle 100a continuous and 200a peak. Now everything was well matched. The bike could do 72 kph without field weakening, and cruise at the speed with 40a. So the battery in this video sat for several months without a BMS. The total hours/cycles is pretty low. And sitting without cycling is likely why 12 cell groups had no self discharge, or at least the same as all of that 12. The #13 group with 0.004v drop might have a tiny insignificant self discharge. If I had been charging and discharging this pack, without allowing any balance maintenance, the cells will drift apart more because because now the difference in internal resistance will turn some energy into heat as it charges and discharges. But after owning a smart bms, i will never make a battery without one.

​@@imho7250 Dude that is awesome. As an ebike/battery pack bulider myself, I found the balance status of your "old"pack with "dumb" bms was so good ( Within 4mV), I just HAD to ask. 😅😅 Ride safe brother!

@ , the old pack, back when it had the dumb bms, was manually balanced with my hobby charger because it was too far out to balance automatically. I have some videos showing how to check if a dumb bms is entering balance mode or shutting off due to unit overvoltage protection. At a certain point, with standard charger taper, is one cell group is significantly lower, the pack voltage will not get high enough to start the taper, so then it quickly pushes one cell group to OVP. Then the voltage surge subsides below bleed voltage, so no bleeding is done. I already installed the ANYon this pack before, and laat time before removing the ANT, i balanced to 0.000v at a reasonable storage voltage instead of fully charged. I moved the ANT to my molicel pack, which is why this pack has no BMS. But i got careless in my molicel build and burned holes in the bottom of about 15 cells. I knew when it happened because you can hear it as soon as it gets a hole. But I ignored it and finished it and it worked fine initially. However over time, as the electrolyte leaked out, whos job is to prevent electrons from going through the inside of the battery, well, amazingly enough, electrons starting flowing through the battery. Lol. This meant that even when sitting idle, those cells would self discharge. At first the ANT could keep up, but eventually the worst groups discharged so much overnight that I knew it was going to become unsafe, eventually becoming nearly a direct short circuit. Again, it was the ANT telling me all this. With a dumb BMS you might not know until after the battery catches on fire. So i tore down the battery and tested each P42acell voltage, let them sit a month, then tested again, and any not self-discharged I will keep, any that drop even 0.002v i will not reuse. So thats how the ANT was free to be temporary attached to the old battery about 3 month ago when I did a perfect balance to 0.000v difference, then removed the bms and set the battery in a box. It was at this time i changed the ANT settings from 16s of the molicel pack to 13s of the 18650 pack. In this video I simply temporarily reconnected the ANT, which was still programmed for 13s, Thats why it immediately read correctly. Unfortunately, people who don’t understand batteries would see this behavior, a battery in storage staying in balance, and think they don’t need no stinking BMS. But the BMS is there to catch many problems during charging and discharging. Obviously if the battery is idle and gets an internal short, the BMS cannot do anything about that.

@@imho7250 Yeah man, I personally under any circumstances seal the 10~20Ah pack with dumb bms which has balance current of 50"m"A lol. I at least put balance wires out of the pack or use smart bms with the bluetooth function. Dumb bms has it's place though, prevents house fire and ease of use for majority of normal people who just plug and play and do not care about voltage balance or some thing unlike some nerds (for example, you and me. 😂😂) And speaking of burn through hole while spot weldong, It really hurts. As soon as I catch that sweet smell of electrolyte, I'm DONE lol. I double, triple check the setting of my spot welder every time I use it. Consistant spot welding is definitely not easy. It's like soldering. Requires lot of practicing than I thought.

@@Bitathisandthat I tried to do a SMD shunt mod on the HobbyWing 9044 controller by stacking a .003 ohm resistor on each of the 3 .001 shunt resistors, similar to what you would do to shunt mod a Video card. In the process I shorted something out and the controller stopped working. So it forced me to jump ahead to a real mod and install a flipsky 75100 v1 💩 version. But the 75100 gives me the flexibility to test and use batteries ip to 72v (84v max at full charge) and up to 100a continuous and 120a max compared to the 16a of the HobbyWing, 24a if the shunt mod would have worked. My next test will be temporarily strapping on a 48v pack that can handle 25a continuous 50a peak, and seeing if it gets me closer to my performance goals of 45 kph without field weakening and acceleration that is acceptable using the original motor. If its not quite enough i will get another 2000w motor like my other bike and that has a hight kV so it would probably work with 36v if I make one that can deliver 120a peak and 40a continuous. Along the way I will rebuild my 16s5p P42a pack into a 13s5p P42a pack with my good cells that I didn’t destroy during spot welding. This will actually be better for me because I can use field weakening more effectively and perhaps be able to see what some settings do that nobody seems to know what they do, or if they still do anything.

@@imho7250 wow ok thats cool.

@ whats your current project? With your 3D printer the world is yours to conquer. Lol. I wish I had one and knew how to use it because I bet I could make some useful stuff. Like some end cap brackets that let me securely clamp my 48v battery to the top of my bike frame instead of using duct tape or whatever I end up using. Lol

@@ly6982 if you have an Ebike controller already, and have room to mount a Fardriver 7235 (their new smallest, but still big, controller), it will work well with your battery and motor as is, and have a little upgrade potential up to 72v 35a DC if you ever wanted it. But its an electric motorcycle controller not an ebike controller so PAS will be gone. Your current display, if you like it, might not be compatible. If you have a nice electric bicycle display with modes and speed and watts and stuff, and want to keep it, you might want a compatibility controller. Sabvoton makes a great electric bicycle controller. It supports PAS, variable regen (with left side thumb throttle installed), and works with displays made for electric bicycles. If you want super tiny buy powerful there are VESC controllers but most don’t support PAS natively , and not sure which display they work with because I just use my phone as the display. Some have power on key switches like an electric motorcycle, some have button start, some are like an RC car that you plug in the battery before each use and unplug it when done. Thats what I have but I would prefer standard ignition key, You have to look at your overall ebike and what you want for the future. If possible you will only ever buy one of each major component, in order, that will work with the things you have now and will want in the future. On my Fardriver Bike, I got motor first from 400w to 2000w. This instantly overloaded my 15a controller because the rated speed was much higher. The original motor only went 33 kph at 48v and this one wanted to 45 kph at 48v. So I temporarily swapped to a 30a controller I had and ordered a Fardriver 72360. I installed the 72360 which has 190a max DC, and I set the DC limit to about 50a, which is about alp my battery can deal with during acceleration. Now the bike finally had better acceleration and higher top speed than it originally had. But I wanted more. So then I built the last component, a 60v21ah batter that can do 90a continuous and 180a peak. Now I can fully feed my Fardriver 72360, and it can fully feed the 2000w motor. Same can be done with about any controller, Fardriver, Sabvoton, VESC etc as long as you get the power and voltage range you want. 48-72v is standard for Fardriver and Sabvoton. VESC has many brands and models but you can get one that supports 24-72v nominal, some only support lower like 12s but some support up to 170v. Look at where you will mount your controller. My fardriver ebike had plenty of room under the rear seat to tuck the controller away neatly, but my new bike had very small space so I went with one of the few Flipsky VESC controllers that fit, and choose the one that seemed to have most flexibility.

Thank you for your response. Your assistance has clarified my decision-making process. I will follow up soon to update you on my progress.

@@dingski_diy pole pair doesn’t matter but it it should accept 16 pole pairs. Thats a very common number for QS hub motors. Try to see if it accepts anything other than 4 pole pairs. Like 23 or 28. You can try to factory reset the fardriver and see if it accepts 16 before running autolearn

@@imho7250 ok, thanks a lot for the reply

@@Mx.kaden1 , pole pairs won’t affect the way the controller works, it will just mean the reported RPM in the app will be faster than the actual RPM. When the app shows the motor running 5000 RPM, it will actually only be 4000 RPM.

@@Bitathisandthat yes, I was surprised how well balanced it stayed while in storage for 3 months. Only brick #13 had some discharge but 0.004v over 3 months is probably nothing to worry about. If it was 0.004v per day, thats a different story. Lol I’m preparing to use this pack and duct tape it to my VESC ebike and see if 13s5p 18650 can do significantly better than the original 10s4p. I think the 48v without field weakening is going to give me the speed I want (45 kph) and keep cruise amps within reason. Eventually through various experiments I can see if this stock motor is sufficient, or if I need the 2000w motor which needs a lot more amps. Ultimately I want a battery inside the 60mm diameter frame that can get me 0-45 kph with reasonable acceleration. The original battery doesn’t. Lol

@@imho7250 i need ti start buying bms's with bluetooth in them..im going to put a bigger bms in my 13s 9p battery soon as i would like to add more power as its only got a 60amp bms in it atm. does your bike not do 50ks atm??..your running a decent size controller arent you?? as my 1000watt wheel does 62ks i mat have asked this question b4...im unsure...lol I like watching your videos

@@Bitathisandthat yes. After learning about Bluetooth BMS and using one on the 20s6p 32700 LiFePO4 battery I made, I will never use any BMS without Bluetooth if at all possible to get it. Size and power is the big problem. This one is very compact and available in 40a/100a or 80a/200a. It’s perfect for my old ebike battery box but too big for my 60mm tube frame so I need a different solution. Lucky VESC controllers with CAN BUS will work with tiny “charge only” bms with canbus, and the bms tells the controller to throttle back instead of slamming the discharge port shut. And in the vesc app you can see what each brick voltage is. This battery in this video had a cell with a CID that popped but it wasn’t easily identifiable with the original bms. As soon as I installed the ANT it was very obvious one brick had a problem, and I found the dead cell and replaced it and the battery has been working fine ever since. But it’s only 5a/cell continuous. Ampace just released a JP30 18650 cell which appears to put the Molicel P30B in the 💩 pile. Lol. But I haven’t seen them for sale yet. I have to wait for Mooch or one of the testers to test it and compare with other 18650 cells.

This BMS has been running for 204 days without all 4 temperature sensors.? Also, what is the tire length option in the parameters ?

@ , unfortunately this 7s-16s model only comes with 2 temperature sensors and it has the worst boot wires (red + black) so you need a battery to boot it if you don’t have your charger nearby and you accidentally turn it off. Lol. The better ANT have 4 temperature sensors and two small black wires for booting that only needs momentarily switch to boot up the ANT and Bluetooth. Not sure about tire length because the ANT by itself has no idea what the tire is doing. It only knows about the battery. Which set of parameters includes tire length?

@ I just found this in Endless Sphere: “TireLength: measure your tire circumference and the BMS will use this value to calculate speed and distances. If you want to use this function you'll need to derivate a wire from one of the hall sensors to the BMS. It's pretty convenient and it works well, so it's a nice thing to have.” I have no idea where you can input the hall sensor signal, but assuming you did connect it, then it would need tire Length (probably circumference) and Pulse value so it knee how many times that hall sensor has to change from high to low to make one revolution. But I never dug into it. To use it with a removable battery like I have you need a special charging plug with some communication ports. Mine is just the standard EIC 320 rice cooker plug. Lol

Can you make a screenrecording of the fardriver app, go to pro settings, slowly scroll from top to bottom to show all the settings, then go to the graph page and accelerate, then use the brake. Then upload the video to your channel and let me know so I can check it out. Make sure its not for kids because I can comment on kids videos because I don’t have the kida app. Try not to make it a short because then I can use time stamps and theres no translation on shorts. Once its uploaded I can watch it and tell you the timestamp where the settings is that needs to be changed,

@@ly6982 yes, i was planning on buying another identical motor to the one i have on my Fardriver 72360 bike that is wound for a higher KV and has 30mm wide stator and magnets instead of 23mm wide like the original motor. But it will take a lot more power than the battery can supply and maybe even more than the 75100 can support. If I can find a suitable 1000w motor I might get that, which could probably work ok with the 75100 and also with whatever the strongest battery I can make for this frame.

@@Raspyrides the field weakening depth is basically how far past actual rated speed, which is determined by battery voltage at that moment and back EMF. Maxspeed is a speed setting you enter which sets maximum rpm for speed 3. This speed limit is overridden if you are in BOOST mode, which relies on Ratios in speed to limit the rpm. The amount of field weakening depth under load varies with the hub motor design, but typically 25%-50% is reasonable. The big factor is battery voltage and peak amps and what the KV of your motor is. If you want to see the maximum field weakening depth your system can tolerate, you would set maxspeed to about 2x rated speed so it doesn’t interfere, and set ratios in speed to 100% top to bottom so it doesn’t interfere, then set Max Line Curr to about 2x the ah of your battery (as long as your BMS is rated that high. Then do full throttle until it reaches top speed while screen recording the gauge page of the fardriver app so you can review it, and hold top speed for 10 seconds. Then if your motor doesn’t have a temperature sensor, feel the motor and make sure it’s not too hot. Field weakening will add a lot more heat. Then review the video and see what the voltage sag was. If less than 0.5v/cell in series (10v in a 20s pack), you can slightly increase max line current and test again. Then you can adjust ratios in speed until it tapers from 100% down to 0% such that it just barely decreases DC amps at top speed. This will be set properly if you have boost feature. For bikes that did not yet add the boost button, you need to adjust maxspeed down until DC amps is only 50%-80% of max line current. The biggest mistake people make is using a weak battery and setting current too high. Then voltage sags too much and the controller sees it needs more field weakening current, which keeps battery current too high and also is sending a lot of phase amps that only heat the motor more. After each test check motor temperature, phase wire temperature, battery wire temperature.

@imho7250 thank you for the reply! For this sake, let’s assume battery is not the weak point and has a 300a continuous bms. Let’s say the FarDriver being used has a max line of 100a and doesn’t cause much sag. How do you know the rpm’s that a motor can be push to? If I did a test without any weakening on load and reached 793rpm, how much more can the rpm increase? Is it just by heat? Again…we’re assuming the battery is not a weak point.

@ , if the battery can easily support 300a, and the controller can only accept 100a, then the way to see what the maximum field weakening can be is to set maxspeed to 1600 rpm and ratios in speed to 100% to at least 1600 rpm. This removes all controller speed limits. Set weak response 0. Then on flat road, no wind, see how fast it can go while screen recording the gauge page of the app. Then check motor temperature. And review the video to see how hot the controller got. The controller with 100a DC maximum is not really designed to be continuous. So expect it to be warming fast at 100a. And your motor is also probably not rated for 8000w continuous, but it can take it for a short period of time. Once you find the max rpm under load, you still need to set a taper in ratios in speed so that it won’t run way too fast on the center stand. You should adjust max speed to slightly pull DC amps to 95a so that speed control is more stable. If the motor or controller is heating too fast at 95a you can set max speed down a bit more until max amps at cruise is 50a to 90a. This still gives 100a for acceleration and then once at cruise speed it pulls it down to something you can use for more than 30 seconds. You may want to use speed 1-2-3 to set eco. Normal, sport. And when in sport you must mentally track how much heat you are adding to the motor. In normal you should be able to drive it without any heating issues.

@@samgreen3983 I have a related video showing the various winding options for QS273 motors which shows how many strands of wire are used in each winding for winds from 2T to 5T, and for various magnet height and stator widths. While the chart in the video only shows the rated rpm of each combination, it’s easy to understand that the more strands that phase current is distributed over, the less heat it will make. ruclips.net/video/DpUedomBx8A/видео.htmlsi=n3Hx1OzHMs3nOdtr

@@danirinaldi1044 i haven’t gotten very deep into the settings yet to know what all the pros and cons are. But some things that are apparent so far: Fardriver 72v allows voltage from 48v-72v in settings while a flipsky 75100 can work with 4s-20s, 14v - 84v. Fardriver motor temperature sensor must be in the firmware, while vesc lets you program for any temperature sensor. Fardriver has ratios on speed, vesc doesn’t. So tuning field weakening might be harder on VESC Fardriver has limited throttle curves (sport/linear/eco) and limited ramp rate (224 max). VESC has several ways to skew throttle curve and ramp rates are adjusted in milliseconds. Fardriver has limited access to some settings while VESC you can change just about anything, even if you shouldn’t, In this case my controller replacement needed to fit inside a 60mm diameter frame tube so VESC was the only high power option.

You need to wire connect B- to the battery negative collector, and all the balance leads should be connected to your battery in the correct order according to the wiring diagram. This is a 7s16s which varies a lot in the order of wires for any less than 16s. The main wires that power the ant is the tiny red wire and the tiny black wire of the balance leads. Make sure to use the at least the minimum amount for your battery and bms, and LiFePO4 need more cells than Li-ion to meet the minimum voltage required to power the ANT. For example, this one I can use 7s li-ion but need minimum of 10s LiFePO4. Make sure you didn’t connect C- to the battery, that goes to the controller. If you tell me which ANT model you have and what your battery is (13s LION or 16s LiFePO4 for example), i can see if that BMS should work.

@imho7250 7-16s 16zNao-16s-40A

@@cjdelossantos5832 did you get your scooter running correctly?

Yes, it's well running now and it just won gold on the recent Ecooter cup😁 Thanks for all the tips👍

@ Gold? That sounds great. Glad you got it all working good. My new Jimmy C4 is slow and lethargic but the Flipsky will let my make it accelerate acceptable because I can increase DC amps from 16a stock to 25a safely without tripping the bms. The battery is still too weak for field weakening.

@@imho7250 yeah but I'm not the rider. That's a cool bike!

@@yengkunwatseyhak3572 I made this battery specifically for my hobby charger. I installed (+) and (-) leads to an XT-60 connector and added a balance harness. So to charge it up i just connect my hobby charger input to a 20w power supply then connect the battery the hobby charger, and charge it. ruclips.net/video/m9ETr_XEdME/видео.htmlsi=EjvSW_-vqtaIZ48k

@@MrCrofty1993 the app is called Uni Scooter, default password 888888 (six 8s)

@@MrCrofty1993 , some manufacturers have made a custom version of this app specifically for their scooter. I found several that work with mine, some have more features than others

@@MrDeceptacon88 does statoraide fertilize the phase wires so they can grow thicker? Lol

@@jerrysy9322 the original battery was 5x 12v23ah SLA batteries in a battery box that can be lifted out of the bike. After buying 2 sets of batteries I decided to build a LiFePO4 battery for it. The battery I made uses 120x 32700 threaded cells, in 20s6p configuration. You can get 6500 mah cells which would make a 39ah battery. You could also use prismatic cells but when I looked I couldn’t find the right dimensions to get 20s in the box.

@@jerrysy9322 i have several videos about making that battery but here is a 30 second highlight video: ruclips.net/video/Jn1VsP58Adw/видео.htmlsi=zl4kcEG-HbtOP3ka

@@imho7250 39ah is the max you could fit, what volt was it, 48v or 60v?

@@jerrysy9322its 20s6p 32700 LiFePO4. The nominal voltage is about 3.3v/cell, so 20*3.3v=66v. It’s about the same voltage at a 60v SLA battery. The voltage stays very flat between 64v and 68v from 20%-90% state of charge.

@@fl8361 I added R003 shunt resistors on top of the original R001 shunt resistors but I didn’t have the right equipment so I ended up shorting something out and broke the controller. This should bring peak amps from 16a to 20a, the max rated for the 9044. The big problem with these is that HobbyWing has made them difficult to program, so you can’t change its settings to 48v or increase the amps to 20a, or use the Uni Scooter app to its full capabilities. Im planning on replacing my controller with a VESC controller, which would allow me to go a bit faster than the original 18-20mph using field weakening. I can use the original battery and motor for a while by setting amps low, and then later upgrade the battery and motor to something more powerful. The other big problem is all the electronics are integrated so the button, throttle and brake send signals to the display, then the display sends that information to the 9044, which has deducted connectors for headlight and taillight/brake light. My 9044 also has PAS input. When you change the controller nothing else is plug and play. The Bluetooth, display, lights, PAS all need some effort to get working again. I have no idea what happens is you use 48v with the controller programmed for 36v, other than the battery meter will always be wrong. I don’t know if it will damage anything.

About 2mm, enough for the 1mm thick copper plus 1mm for the raised portion of the cell holder.

Can you make a screenrecording of your ANT app, starting with a slow scroll top tp bottom of the main page, then Vparams, then CurParams, and then go back to main page demonstrate and scroll until boxes 3,4,5,6 are in view, then ride the bike to make it trip. Then upload the video to your channel, not a short, not for kids, and let me know so I can come watch it and give my assessment.

@ i changed the short protect amps from 210 to 220 and it seemed to fix the issue. Am i good?

@@Viralclips22833 i wont know if its good without the video I requested. There are many interrelated settings. It’s strange the protection was set so low unless you are the one who did that. If that was in fact the default setting it means the ANT model was way too small for your controller. But I can see everything needed from the video, so if you want my assessment , make the video.

@@dcktater7847 yes, but if its can be arranged better, thinner copper will give better results and easier to work with. Imagine a 10p pack, snake bus, thats 20 cells in a row connected by a snake <20mm wide, but needing to carry 450a across between the two parallel groups. Then consider those same 20cells arranged in a 4x5 square, covered with a 80mmx100mm piece of copper, such that the series bus is 80mm wide to carry the same 450a. The snake bus needs to be 4x thicker to be the same mm^2 at the point where current is highest. This is why no real battery makers will use a snake bus except when there is absolutely no choice.

@@madmax3288 for Android it’s probably best to uninstall the old app then install the new app.

@@Daniel-zy8ur connect your phone to the ANT bms and start screen recording. Slowly Scroll each page, top to bottom, starting with the main page then go to parameters tab and open each page, scroll top bottom. Starting from FastSetting and each one down until PackParameters. Take your time scrolling so I can see the setting and so its more than 1 minute long so its not a short (so i can use timestamps). Upload “not for kids”. Because I don’t have the kids app and can’t comment if its for kids. Then come back and let me know its uploaded and PUBLIC and i will come check it out and tell you what is wrong with it.

@ hi sir. I have uploaded the video please have a read to the description as well. Thank you so much 🙏

@ , I commented on your video.

I am curious about the current my motor will support. My motor image is attached. resimlink.com/vLPa2AOQ r.resimlink.com/95D3mRPZb.jpg r.resimlink.com/QgEReA.jpg

I can measure winding resistances and thickness if necessary

@@ADDTR1 how many amps if your BMS rated at? What size are your motor phase wires. The cable will say 3x (some size) and 5x (some smaller size). 500w should have 3x 1.0mm^2. Look at the traces on the controller and the DC and Phase wires of the controller. Make sure they are big enough for more amps. If your controller is rated at 15a peak, you can try modding it to 20a peak. This is a 33% increase in acceleration, but should not increase top speed. The speed limit is what allows the motor time to cool down after each acceleration. 20a to accelerate, 10a for cruise.

@@imho7250 3 pieces of 2.0mm width with protective case

If you are using Instagram, I would like to post pictures from there.

@@Jon-b8y9h i don’t understand the question. Can you be more specific?

You can also verify pole pairs are correct by using a GPS app to get the actual speed on the road and look at the reported RPM from your controller, then using any online calculator to see if your tire diameter @ that RPM matches the speed given by the GPS. Simple with hub motor. For middrive you would need to factor in the reduction ratio of the chain/belt.

The fake ones were from Shopee Philippines (all on shopee were fake at this time), the real ones i bought through Molicel’s Authorized Asia distributor, Vapecell. I first went to the official Vapecell website, found contacts, and emailed them. Then they gave me a quote and made a specific link for me in their shop on Aliexpress. But the new dog in town is the P45B, since the price has dropped significantly, they are only slightly more expensive than the P42a, so ask them for a quote, If you are not in Asia, find the authorized Molicel distributor in your region and buy from them.

Power central from shopee Philippines also sell molicel cells do think they are legit?

@ , no, those are not legit. I buy most 32700 cells from power central and they seem good now that they test them, but the molicel are not legit. The way to see if you have to look through the reviews for clear pictures. Then check the QR code. If they seem like clones, they are fake. Real Molicel have unique QR code on every single cell. down-ph.img.susercontent.com/file/ph-11134103-7r98w-lntjpmgq6q218e.webp I don’t know if they are part of the scam or just resellers of the scam artist. The fake cells I got were from Power Central. They are still decent cells, but as you see in tests they aren’t P42a. Probably LiShen 2100LA rewrapped as fake P42a. Thats why they deliver the amps but the mah are a bit low. Even the vape shops on shopee are selling these fake P42a and probably the P45b they sell are also fake.

@@jamesdoulton7567 it’s just basic setup but its enough to get the bike running. After this process the Fardriver needs to be tuned to get the max performance without damaging the battery, controller or motor. Basic settings are all the static settings you can do without ever riding the bike. Tuning gets into PID settings and ratios in speeds, regen table, etc. basically anything that requires you test ride the bike while screenrecording the graph page or listen for motor noise or feeling for motor roughness,

@@ethanhunt1828 what motor do you have?

It is QS motor 3KW Mid Drive Modified for resale by indian brand. I dont know what fixed it but must be some optional conflicts between ratios in speed and ratios in Gear i think,Also i watched your video of Regen Kickback where you switched to EABS/Regen when release throttle instead of Eabs when brake valid,I ALSO switched to that option,that might hve fixed it. Also Park when Brake valid option is not working fot me somehow,Low brake wires are properly connected so it must set mode to Neutral/park when i press brakes right?

@@ethanhunt1828 you mean it’s working correctly now?

@@ethanhunt1828 you mean it’s working correctly now?

@@ethanhunt1828 you mean it’s working correctly now?

@@kevind1893 the taper at the end of the charge cycle is progressively into the charger, not the ANT. Some chargers go a. It higher than 4.200v/cell in a perfectly balanced state before throttling back. If you can read the open ended voltage of your charger(s), it should be 84.05v or so, which is enough to push the higher cells into the balance regen of a non-programmable BMS. But it should be already down to 0.1a or so. The ANT default balance limit is 4.200v, but it won’t be able to function with the OVP set default 4.200v also. You can raise unit OVP to 4.250v and leave unit balance at 4.200v and it will bleed every cell as it exceeds 4.200v. The 4.250v ovp gives it room so the charge port doesn’t close. Then it should reach a point where all cells are balance at 4.200v with some at 4.201v and bleeding. But if the charger is set too high it will want to find a higher balance point, so you can gradually increase balance limit to 4.205v, 4.210v until it reaches equilibrium. But if you don’t want any cell to go over 4.200v, set UnitDiffOffV to 0.000v and click “startAutobalance” in the BMS control tab and it will balance until 0.000v difference. Then you can top it off if you want. It’s ok if the ANT ends charge each time.