Great video Leandro. I change my CRF1000 oil every 6000 miles as well, regardless of the longer schedule in the manual. It costs very little and is the best thing you can do for the engine. Regards, Stevie
Very nice video, when you talk about bad quality fuel (w/ water) are you talking about Brazilian´s regular gasoline, or irregular fuel that unfortunatly we find a lot in Brazil?
Thanks for your comment! I meant the regular gasoline, which has more ethanol added to it compared to other countries. In order to minimize this effect, you can fill up the tank with Podium or change your oil more often as the water causes the oil to lose its lubrication effectiveness. That’s why most specialists here in Brazil advise always to change the oil more often than prescribed by the manual.All the best!
Fala Nelson, tudo joia? Eu comprei o óleo e a arruela na concessionária. O filtro de óleo da K&N eu comprei do fornecedor da marca que vende no Mercado Livre. Abs
Great video buddy! Have you got any issues with your Honda over the course of 20 000km? I am just trying to decide which adventure bike to buy, so doing research around. Was tempted by KTM 890, but seeing all these issues on the internet, I am not sure!
Thanks for your comment. As for your question, I haven’t had any issues so far and the bike has proved to be very reliable and easy to maintain. I’ve had BMWs for quite sometime and in comparison to those i find the AT more reliable and straightforward in terms of maintenance. In general, Honda bikes have less technology and don’t prioritize the finishing. Also they always get a little behind in terms of performance. However, the honda package always comes with reliability, less planned obsolescence, less fuel consumption , more durability and a more accessible parts. If you take those qualities as important, the AT is the bike to go for. Specially if you decide to ride in more remote areas, as for honda you can always find a way to get round the problems. Hope it helps! best regards
Thanks for your comment. My garage is opened and has a large areas , so it does allow plenty of air and ventilation . in other videos you can see better. But you are right. It’s always better to do in open air . as for taking your bike for a ride instead on just turning it on, the manual says to run it idle for 5 minutes in order to maintain the oil temperature/viscosity at a desired level. Not sure if 5 minutes on gear and higher rev will impact on the oil level reading. Best Regards!
Thanks for your comment! My bike is the manual version, not the dct one. Hence it does not require draining specific oil from the clutch. However, if your AT is the DCT version it’s not difficult to do it. It only requires you to remove the clutch filter, which is located just above the clutch. The oil replacement is the same process but it takes 4,2 liters instead of 4,0 liters on the manual version. Hope it helps. best regards
Ok I got a stupid question, but hey it’s social media so I gotta ask. If one wanted to speed up the old drain speed, would inserting an air compressor line into filler neck area assist in blowing the oil and get the excess oil out more quickly as oil escape route would be drain plugs and filter areas. Or by some weird chance, would it possibly blow oil into or past something it should not go, like a piston ring? Just curious.
No worries. I suppose any project that changes the flow of oil will certainly let oil go where it should not go. The bike has a very tight and precise engine. anything that changes originality will cause issues i suppose. best regsrds
Do the oil-plugs have magnets in them? What is the threat size of the plugs M12? Where can I get a copy of the service manual? I have an NT1100 with zero the same engine. Thank you.
No, as far as know The Bolt is not magnetized. At least I didn't see any metal particles on it. As for The manual, RUclips can purchase the PDF from the net. Just try a Quick google and the options will show. The drain bolt is a 12mm one! Good luck with your new nt1100. Excelent bike! Best regards
@@MrLuk78 Thank you. I will order new plugs with magnets Beter save. Done that on all my bikes in the past and recently on my Valkyrie. For the manual I will check on the internet.
olá. eu comprei o manual de um site, que não me lembro o nome. basta vc digitar no google “service manual africa twin crf1100 “ que há diversos sites que vendem. vc paga e baixa o arquivo na hora. Alguns sites vendem a versão física tb.abs
Excuse Mister but--- 4 Litres only without Filtre change. With Filtre CHange its 4.2 LITRES. U have 0.2 Litres to less in ur Motocycle because u change the Filtre too.
Hello Sam. Thanks for your important comment. You may be taking the numbers for the DCT version, which in fact requires 4.2 liters at oil filter change. The manual (MTversion), according to the service manual (3-12), takes a total of 4.0 liters at oil change, 3.9 liters at draining and 4.8 liters at disassembly. On the other hand, the dct takes 4.0 liters at draining, 4.2 liters at oil filter change and 5.2 liters at disassembly. I checked the level a couple of times and it was right in the middle of the marks. I should´ve mentioned this clearly on the video to avoid the confusion. All the best and good luck with your service!
@@samfisher9016 Don´t worry. It´s very confusing. I had to look at the manual a few times to make sure I was right. I suppose Honda prefered to set the 4 liter benchmark on the manual version. It would be a real pain in the backside buying an extra liter and a measuring cup just to use 200ml. If I´m no mistaking, the CRF1000L Manual (previous version of a the Africa Twin) takes 4,1L!
Agree that there are better oil in the market, specifically synthetic ones. But remember that most Japanese bikes indicate semisynthetic oil, which is cheaper and considered of a less quality. Don’t know the reason. As for using 10w40, i wouldn’t use anything different from what the manufacturer indicates, specially the viscosity at engine temperatures. (40 instead of 30) .This may affect performance and even damage engine parts, considering that the manufacturer tested the engine with a given viscosity. I suppose that if you change your oil every 5000/6000km it is not a problem using honda oil. Besides is a lot cheaper and guaranteed by the manufacturer.
Can you provide some lab tests reguarding the Honda oil where we can see what you are saying? Anti-friction and anti-wear properties, degradation over time, etc...
Thx for the video👍 very good explication. Greetings from germany to brazil😁
Thanks for your comment. best regards!
Great video Leandro. I change my CRF1000 oil every 6000 miles as well, regardless of the longer schedule in the manual. It costs very little and is the best thing you can do for the engine. Regards, Stevie
You are definitely right. Honda oil is quite cheap and your bike will thank you. All the best!
Good Video. Thanks for I would not recommend using a torque spanner to loosen screws.
Thanks for your comment and tip! Best regards.
Great video, only thing i would say is to never use a k&n filter, and if you do, never tighten them bit the nut, ive seen alot of them leak by there.
thanks for the tip! Best regards!
Great video brother!
thanks for your comment!
Very nice video, when you talk about bad quality fuel (w/ water) are you talking about Brazilian´s regular gasoline, or irregular fuel that unfortunatly we find a lot in Brazil?
Thanks for your comment! I meant the regular gasoline, which has more ethanol added to it compared to other countries.
In order to minimize this effect, you can fill up the tank with Podium or change your oil more often as the water causes the oil to lose its lubrication effectiveness. That’s why most specialists here in Brazil advise always to change the oil more often than prescribed by the manual.All the best!
Fala Leandro, você comprou todos esses itens na CCs? Além dos óleos e filtro, tem a tal da arruela especial do reservatório, confere?
Fala Nelson, tudo joia? Eu comprei o óleo e a arruela na concessionária. O filtro de óleo da K&N eu comprei do fornecedor da marca que vende no Mercado Livre. Abs
Great video bro
Thanks for your comment!
Great video buddy! Have you got any issues with your Honda over the course of 20 000km? I am just trying to decide which adventure bike to buy, so doing research around. Was tempted by KTM 890, but seeing all these issues on the internet, I am not sure!
Thanks for your comment. As for your question, I haven’t had any issues so far and the bike has proved to be very reliable and easy to maintain.
I’ve had BMWs for quite sometime and in comparison to those i find the AT more reliable and straightforward in terms of maintenance.
In general, Honda bikes have less technology and don’t prioritize the finishing. Also they always get a little behind in terms of performance. However, the honda package always comes with reliability, less planned obsolescence, less fuel consumption , more durability and a more accessible parts.
If you take those qualities as important, the AT is the bike to go for. Specially if you decide to ride in more remote areas, as for honda you can always find a way to get round the problems. Hope it helps! best regards
Great video, just amazed that you run your engine in a closed space, this is very unhealthy and dangerous. Ideally go for a short drive.
Thanks for your comment. My garage is opened and has a large areas , so it does allow plenty of air and ventilation . in other videos you can see better. But you are right. It’s always better to do in open air . as for taking your bike for a ride instead on just turning it on, the manual says to run it idle for 5 minutes in order to maintain the oil temperature/viscosity at a desired level. Not sure if 5 minutes on gear and higher rev will impact on the oil level reading. Best Regards!
Thank you. How do you go about changing the clutch oil?
Thanks for your comment!
My bike is the manual version, not the dct one. Hence it does not require draining specific oil from the clutch. However, if your AT is the DCT version it’s not difficult to do it. It only requires you to remove the clutch filter, which is located just above the clutch.
The oil replacement is the same process but it takes 4,2 liters instead of 4,0 liters on the manual version. Hope it helps. best regards
@@MrLuk78 Thank you. Many kind regards
Ok I got a stupid question, but hey it’s social media so I gotta ask. If one wanted to speed up the old drain speed, would inserting an air compressor line into filler neck area assist in blowing the oil and get the excess oil out more quickly as oil escape route would be drain plugs and filter areas. Or by some weird chance, would it possibly blow oil into or past something it should not go, like a piston ring? Just curious.
No worries. I suppose any project that changes the flow of oil will certainly let oil go where it should not go. The bike has a very tight and precise engine. anything that changes originality will cause issues i suppose. best regsrds
Do the oil-plugs have magnets in them? What is the threat size of the plugs M12? Where can I get a copy of the service manual? I have an NT1100 with zero the same engine. Thank you.
No, as far as know The Bolt is not magnetized. At least I didn't see any metal particles on it.
As for The manual, RUclips can purchase the PDF from the net. Just try a Quick google and the options will show. The drain bolt is a 12mm one! Good luck with your new nt1100. Excelent bike! Best regards
@@MrLuk78 Thank you. I will order new plugs with magnets Beter save. Done that on all my bikes in the past and recently on my Valkyrie. For the manual I will check on the internet.
Get plugs with magnets, changed oil today and there was some shit on the magnetic plugs.
Thanks for the tip!
Onde arranjar o service manual em PDF?
Tem que procurar algum site que tenha o manual digital ou na própria honda.
Amigo, onde consigo o manual de serviço? Obrigado!
olá. eu comprei o manual de um site, que não me lembro o nome. basta vc digitar no google “service manual africa twin crf1100 “ que há diversos sites que vendem. vc paga e baixa o arquivo na hora. Alguns sites vendem a versão física tb.abs
@@MrLuk78 Obrigado!
Thanks
Thx brooo
Thanks for your comment! all the best
Excuse Mister but--- 4 Litres only without Filtre change. With Filtre CHange its 4.2 LITRES. U have 0.2 Litres to less in ur Motocycle because u change the Filtre too.
Hello Sam. Thanks for your important comment.
You may be taking the numbers for the DCT version, which in fact requires 4.2 liters at oil filter change.
The manual (MTversion), according to the service manual (3-12), takes a total of 4.0 liters at oil change, 3.9 liters at draining and 4.8 liters at disassembly.
On the other hand, the dct takes 4.0 liters at draining, 4.2 liters at oil filter change and 5.2 liters at disassembly.
I checked the level a couple of times and it was right in the middle of the marks. I should´ve mentioned this clearly on the video to avoid the confusion. All the best and good luck with your service!
@@MrLuk78 OMG im so STupid 😪
@@samfisher9016 Don´t worry. It´s very confusing. I had to look at the manual a few times to make sure I was right.
I suppose Honda prefered to set the 4 liter benchmark on the manual version. It would be a real pain in the backside buying an extra liter and a measuring cup just to use 200ml.
If I´m no mistaking, the CRF1000L Manual (previous version of a the Africa Twin) takes 4,1L!
Thats Not correct. 4.2 litres is only by the DCT models...for crf1100A models (with manual gear shift) 4.0 litres are correct.😊
OEM oil is shit , use top quality oil motul, fuchs , ipone... etc 10w40
Agree that there are better oil in the market, specifically synthetic ones. But remember that most Japanese bikes indicate semisynthetic oil, which is cheaper and considered of a less quality. Don’t know the reason.
As for using 10w40, i wouldn’t use anything different from what the manufacturer indicates, specially the viscosity at engine temperatures. (40 instead of 30) .This may affect performance and even damage engine parts, considering that the manufacturer tested the engine with a given viscosity.
I suppose that if you change your oil every 5000/6000km it is not a problem using honda oil. Besides is a lot cheaper and guaranteed by the manufacturer.
Can you provide some lab tests reguarding the Honda oil where we can see what you are saying? Anti-friction and anti-wear properties, degradation over time, etc...
Yeah.
Thanks
Thanks for your comment!