Oil Leaks (Type 1 Air Cooled )
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Where is that oil leak coming from and how do you prevent it. Some are obvious and some are hidden but they all make a mess and collect dirt which interferes with keeping your engine cool and happy.
I can confirm that the simple o-ring seal on chinese air-vw distributors tend to leak up oil. The proper rubber seals fit tigther (you need to lube them well to install in the distributor grove, and ideally you first attach the clamp to distributor base. Only then carefully press the distributor down the hole, with some oil to help). Great video btw.
Just bought a mint 70 type 3 squareback that's pissing oil out like mad. Turns out the previous owner blocked / sealed the vent! Need to sort that. Been degreasing the bottom and tin and heater tubes, and trans etc in prep for fixing that and retesting. Subbed :-)
It's a built 1.8 of some sort, too. No idea what but it pulls hard indeed. Fingers crossed that it's reliable :-)
Hope you get it sorted out
Thanks! Me too as can't legally drive it here with a leal like that. Was bone dry last night. Need to check this morning to see if I have a gravity leak too, or only a running pressurised leak. Your videos are on the long side, but lots of pearls of wisdom in them
Oh, and the case is a German AS41, that's a good start, thanks for the case education in a different video :-)
So Much Good Information Buddy. You are an Encyclopedia of VW Knowledge and that comes from all the years of working on them. Thanks for sharing with all of us, We really appreciate it. You are right I do Love my Baja Bug. Take care my friend and stay warm. BigW:-)
Thanks alot ezee , i will be watching this one a few more times to let it sink in. Your a fountain of knowledge Thanks for sharing.
Hi from Scotland, great video thanks for sharing all your years of knowledge. keep them coming.
Thanks for the informative video Gz ! I wish I could express how much your videos help me. Every video has a tip or trick that just flat out works. Thanks for sharing !
Gosh, how much you teach us. You share everything in a stream of consciousness way. Aren't you tired after expounding on air-cooled theory for 40 minutes? You need a break. You always a great job! Thank you very much. John.
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience and wisdom. Great video!
Thanks Wes I appreciate you checking in.
I was watching your generator episode. Will just so happens I have a 78 Karmman Bug with a carburetor swop before I got it. I love the it! I hate it! I love it! I hate it! So on and so forth. I noticed that my gen light hadn't been coming on. I'm disabled so I feel like crap most of the time. And especially in the winter months here in Tennessee. Long story short. I've got a new truck and the Bug. Late last year someone hit my mother's car and totalled it. So I told my Mother to us the truck all she needs. So now I've had the Bug over a year. And she runs great every once in a while. But mostly starts acting up. She'll start missing, too bucking and loosing power. I've done all I know to do too the ole gal. I found out the gen light on back of the speedometer came off. Easy fixs. Brought a brand new battery too. But she running like crap. I just don't know what to do anymore. I'd really like to to get her very reliable. I will not drive her or get her out in the rain. But I'm clueless and out of ideas what could be wrong with her. She's just a stock motor. No upgrades. Thanks for any help you can.
I would do a good tune up check up. Plug wires, check point gap and timing. Check valve clearance. Check the distributor cap and rotor. Pull the plugs and do a compression test with carb choke and throttle wide open. It should read over 100 psi on ea. after a 8 count. Adjust carb and or rebuild and it.
G'day Kevin here from Australia. Very informative video keep em coming 👍
Once again another great informative video from the great one! Thanks EZ that helped me alot I've actually been debating on installing valve cover vents and h just put me at ease lol keep up the great work and videos I hope to be half the man u r one day...
Great info on oil leaks cause and cures. Like you say silicone should be used sparingly. Also mating surfaces when assembling should be really clean. Super topics GZ, Thanks
Thanks for adding that. I should have mentioned it but in hindsight I left out a few other important things. I depend heavily on group input. Have a great day.
Very good thanks for your great information.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video 👍
A lot of Volkswagen dealership put little dabs of pipe dope on oil pressure sender.
you can use silicone.......BUT only use Versachem mega black. IT WILL NEVER RELEASE into the engine. and it will not leak. THe best stuff I have ever used. super strong and super great adhesion to the metal. chemicals other than gas and even that will not break it down. I used it to seal my diesel gas tank too Never leaked again. all the other stuff including the permatex ultra does not compare at all.
I don't use silicone on case. Period!
Another good one 😎
Thanks for your support
Great info as usual. 👍
Great video. Now me being a Brit, we don't get the same products in the shops as you do in the states, so I have to ask is Simple Green the lite version of Soylent Green?
Great video thanks.
Thanks for your comment.
What if the leak comes from the pulley? How to accomodate such situation?
The stock ones leaked too. As the engine gets older you get more ring blowby and if your crankcase vent hose does not to the air cleaner to help draw out the gas it will find anyplace it can. Also guys that build higher horsepower engines turn higher RPM more often and the stock set up won't work. That's why some folks add valve cover vents and direct that to a seperate breather box
Good video
Vee Dubs don't leak oil, they mark their territory.
Good Dogs always do and it does kill the grass. LOL
great vid EZ.i got an old 71 DP AE 1600.Its dripping on the 1/2 side.I swear it looks like from under the cylinders.from your experience u think it would be head studs leaking like u said in video?.thanx,Sean..in MA
It could be. Take that lower tin off so you can get at things and spray some brake cleaner or take it to the car wash along with a floor jack and just clean everything up real good and then put the tin back on and keep an eye on things. The best thing to do would be clean it and pull the engine and take it apart and reseal it. If you don't have the money for overhaul at least it will be clean and happy. Good Luck with your project
thanks EZ,ill probly go ahead clean it and overhaul it.Your right that be the best thing to do.thanks!..keep em coming!!..
vc vents on street? no. agreed. did you mention the cam plug & orientation? i didn't hear it.
I only said you need to do it right. Flat side in and some sealer
Normal head temps are 180 degrees to 200 degrees Fahrenheit? Or were you referring to oil temperature?
oil
The last VW bug engine saids Hecho en México
thx
what are your thoughts on a turbo charged 1835 as far as pcv venting? I had valve cover vents and was getting a lot of oil blow buy into the catch can ,it is a fresh build. the turbo drain was routed into the 1-2 valve cover and im thinking the valve cover vent was pushing the drain tube oil into the catch can,
A fresh engine takes a few miles to seat things so you may have some blowby from rings. I suppose it depends on how much boost your putting into it and how often. If it's a new set up I imagine your in it a lot. hehehehe They made thin wall cylinders for the 92 jugs and they were prone to leak a lot more than the 90.5. If you are having ring blow by and drive hard your engine will run a lot hotter than before turbo. I've thought about doing a turbo but bigger stroker engines give me what I need.
thanks for the answer, im going to move the pcv vent and then turbo drain tube and then let the engine brake in for a while. it is boosting to 6 psi and it has full msd ignition and holly fuel system. also the engine is in a sand rail.
That sounds sweeeeeet I'm jealous.
also missing oil plug gasket.
Good point but there always seems to be a drip down there right?
I don’t understand why anyone would ever waste time with a used old unknown magnesium case when you can buy a brand new aluminum case. The cost argument is complete BS if the engine is being built right. By the time you buy someones old beat to shit magnesium case, take it to a quality machinist you spend the same or more messing with a old one.
I agree but there can be some quality issues with the new engine cases. I recently had to return a aluminum case because of 1 bad lifter hole. With Covid and shipping time. It took over 3 months to get it resolved and the replacement case required a lot of effort on my part to get it to fit right. Not a take it out of the box and start assembly.
28:01 That's what SHE said...