VW Air Cooled Beetle Oil Leaks - Why Do They Leak - How To Fix Them - Ghia - VW Bus - VW Fastback
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- This week we discuss oil leaks, and how to fix them on VW Air Cooled Beetles, Ghia , VW Bus, Fastback type 3. How To FIX them and good DIY procedures.
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As A FirstTime Beetle Owner ,This Video Was Exactly What I Needed !!! Thank You
You’re very welcome, thank you so much for commenting. If you check the playlist on the channel, there’s an index where you can find stuff quickly. I hope you have a great upcoming weekend.
@@SladesVWBeetle,I’ll Be Watching Your All Your Videos !!! Thank You For The Help 😎
agreed
“The more you know, the more you know you don’t know” - Some old dude, with wisdom, who has passed
LOL. Im taking off my "Marking my Spot" license plate frame.😳
Very informative video. I will most likely watch it again. Thanks for sharing.
This video will be going into my reference library!! Thanks Slade!
Thanks!
I am really enjoying your videos. I love the pics along the way. Archie Bunker and Jean-Luc Pickard are favorites. As far as the people critisizing things you say in the comments, F (forget) them. Rear main seal is a great name for that part, it's closer to the rear of the car than most cars!!
You are doing good work, and explain it well. I especially appreciate the tips where you are making things work with what you have, rather than stopping work and ordering parts. Great for those of us that don't have buckets of money, and more of us that just want to keep going. Thanks.
Thanks David!! People can be rude, never did figure out why the need to do that. Thanks for being here my friend!
Best video on VW on the internet!!! 🙌 So much needed!! Thank you!!!!
I've always owned at least one VW as a daily driver (20+ years) and have always done my own maintenance/ repairs/ etc and just discovered you. Thank you SO much for your wisdom/ advice! Keep up the great work!
Thank you very much, I truly appreciate the kind words. And thank you so much for for taking the time to leave a comment!
I've always used Indian head gasket shellac and a real silk thread to keep Harleys from leaking.. if I ever rebuild the beetle engine I'll try it on it also
I know a fare bit about fixing old VW's and much of what you say I already know but I'm enjoying watching this as a reminder. There are also many hidden gems in your content.
Thank you!
I’ve been building VW engines for years. I learn that Rector seal #5 from a VW dealership work absolutely awesome. You need to mix your new can with a screw driver. It has a brush in the cap the works well to put on case half’s. Boston Bob tried it and used it for years after I told him about it. Did higher end balanced and blueprinted engines. Rector seal #5 is a pipe sealant that will withstand gas heat and oil. ❤😊
You put the air cooled VW maintenance do’s and don’ts in a comprehensive yet straight forward perspective . Thank you for sharing sir !
Thank you Jason for taking the time to leave a nice comment I truly appreciate that.
Sir Slade: All great points that you made in today's video! Thanks for the info!
Thanks for all the great info. I am very new to these air cooled engines. Have an old one that's been sitting for a while Much to learn!!
Thanks great video
Thank you!
Thank you, sir. It's excellent tips
Good video. I agree about the distinctive smell of 75w90 or whichever weight you use. Kinda nauseating for some reason
I affectenatly call my ‘63 Bug I’ve owned for 25yrs“ oil can”.
😁
Thank for the advice on the oil cooler seals using the dielectric grease 👍😀
The shop is looking GREAT! It is like a darned club house in there with all of the wood on the walls! I agree with everything you said in this video! Another fantastic video you have given us again this week! Thank you so very much, again!
I'm gonna have this one on my list for when I remove my engine
Great Vid👍🇩🇪
Good Stuff @Slades VW Beetle, with this knowledge my new engine should never leak. Great content!
Great video! I intend to look at all of the places shown on my engine while it is out of the car.
All the love from Egypt.... your content is very useful ♥️♥️♥️
Thank you so much my friend. I truly appreciate the kind words.
Very informative
Your videos are great for first time Vw
2:19
Thanks Slade !! great video bin looking forward to this one see ya on the next one.
Never really worked on air cooled VW's, great tutorial on surface prep . A good bud has a 68, watched him split case rebuild his and the care he took prep & torque , NO 🩸LEAKS & cool oil temp running..
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment Joe I truly appreciate that. He’s definitely don’t have to wake oil, but I think everybody got used to it lol
is that ultra copper the new style of copper head from long ago lol?
I use 2 ballpeen hammers. Rounded side down to the hole on the cover on a flat surface and then use the second hammer to hit the first hammer to knock the high point down. Works great with V8 valve covers too. If you use a very thin coat of silicone on both sides of the gaskets it much easier to remove them when you have to change your oil and clean the sump plate. If you have any questions please feel free to pump my brain. 😊
Great info.
Excellent. Thank you.
Very thorough! Thank you for sharing your experience, once again...
nice video.
Good video! I think one thing that needs to be stressed is it needs to be clean clean clean, then when you think it's clean clean it again right before assembly. On the last engine I built I used Indian head gasket shellac on the case, 3 bond under the jugs, head washers and bottom of head nuts, and the case side of the oil pump(a very thin coating on the thin paper gasket for the oil pump cover) and finally the fuel pump and gen stand get some 3 bond. Then I used ultra black on the cork valve cover gaskets and let them dry then put a small amount on the valve cover so it glues them on the v/c. I then use ultra copper on the exhaust gaskets. All the pushrods and oil cooler seals I install dry, and I use some wheel bearing grease on the rear main and oil on the dizzy oring. So far its still dry as a bone but I think the engines will always eventually leak due to thermal expansion. Many ways to skin a cat that's for sure.
You are the best VW guy I've seen to date!!!
Thank you Josh, that was very nice of you to say.
I like your vids bro very Informative
Great information,keep it coming 😁
Thank you for sharing😊
Good vid and I was impressed to see one of the true Flywheel seal leak fixes. Another and most common reason Vw engine cases leak through the case halves is that many DIY engine builders don't run a big straight edge across each case halve to see if its bent - most are after 50yrs of heating and cooling. This needs to be machined straight, oil pump hole re-machined, cam tunnel reemed and then the main tunnel can be align bored. But most engine shops either don't understand or don't know this or are just too lazy to do the work to get it straight. Next is never use silicon base sealants between the case halves (the aviation is not silicon based for a reason) It makes it like a ham sandwich and mains never apply the correct crush on the bearings if silicon based = early flogged out / loose tunnels.
Despite all the Empi bashing going on of late they do have some high quality products that are equally as good as the other big names. One is thier stainless windage pushrod tubes. They also have a really good spring loaded pushrod tube (not all of them though). However, I don't remember the part # right now.
Thanks for introducing me to your gasket maker and sealer products. It really helps the rest of us with this type of knowledge. Well done
Excellent video. I've got two more leaks for you the generator stand and on my Baja the sand seal behind the pulley. By the way I've been using aviation sealer for years and yamabond since the 70s.
thanks. Watched this video over 5 times, i love it,
great video and very well explained. you are right that these engines are not made to leak.
so like they didn't leak from the factory. a lot off products exist to prevent leaks and seal everything, but like you said, every seal product has it specs.
i use that aviation sealer a lot, but i use also a lot off omnifit.
see you on the next video my friend and thank you.
👍 Nice video.
Thank you my friend I hope you are doing well.
@@SladesVWBeetle I'm doing well. Just busy with the kids and trying to get my Beetle back on the road again. I really miss driving it. Hopefully it will be on the road by the end of this year.🤞
@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle Family time is important, so I know what you mean. I hope you’re safe, I see hurricanes coming in. I hope you’re on the road soon, don’t forget to film! Would love to see it.
They have one called Indian sealer that works great
Great video !!! Thanks for always providing great VW content . Keep up the great work !
You said several times "when the seal goes on the crankshaft..." Just pointing out that the inner lip of the rear seal runs on the flywheel, not the crankshaft per se.
I was just given a free 1990 brazilan kombi, that runs. my first VW. I looked under it today, and I was horrified by how much oil it was leaking. I even pulled the dip stick. yep has oil. Everyone was like, 'yea, they just use oil, they leak oil, get use to it". I am not interested in getting use to a vehicle leaking that much oil. I see a leak, I want plug it. Thanks for all the tips. This is 2023, we have all these high-tech sealants for a reason: things use to leak. Now they don't have to leak.
Thank you for taking the time to comment. I know the air cooled motors can leak oil. But if we follow certain procedures and steps, we can keep it either from leaking oil, or extremely minimum or you may see a drip once in a while.
Thanks for those awesome tips. Sharing your experience is great. I will follow your advices next time I rebuilt my vw beetle 1968 motor. Good job.
Thank you Jesus, and thank you for being here I appreciate it.
Just remember there’s different oil cooler gaskets for different motors I run across them all the time with the wrong ones in them when I take them apart.
Another great video. Seeing bits iv never noticed before. With the push rod tubes I put a socket in them to help expand them a little bit. Here in England we also had swingaxle beetles aswell as irs. Mines a 74 swing axle which was a 1200 originally. I need to look into that aviation sealer. Looks great stuff. Will be ideal for my soon to be daily beetle. Not a problem on the others as they usually need to come apart every few years. Thanks for another great video.
Another great video, Slade! I’m looking forward to the swing axle rebuild video. As you know my swing axle on my mexi loves to “mark its territory” thanks for all the great content!
Sealing the oil pump to the case I use spray tack lightly on both sides of the gasket and then lay it on the pump. Then put a thin bead of ultra black silicone in the corner of the pump. If you look at the case half’s you’ll see how much of a chamfer is on the opening to let you know how much to use. Slightly more than the chamfer. The thin cover gasket I use permatext spray tack on both sides. 😊
this was one of your best videos. thanks
Great explanation and thorough!
Thanks as always a very informative video. Are you doing a chat this weekend?
I think you missed the alt/gen stand, there is a gasket there and it also causes leaks. It is the least place that leaks, and the leaks aren't that crazy, but still, something that needs to be taken care of.
I had always used Shellac for sealing stuff, but it looks like temperature does its thing and eventually leaks start to form. Also here in Mexico gasket kits aren't that super great. So I just rebuilt my baywindow bus engine back in July of this year, and I used anaerobic gasket sealant/maker (Loctite 518 or Permatex 51813) along with an Elring gasket kit and man... the engine has not formed a single leak! I regard much of this result to the Elring gasket kit, but I did another engine for a customer with a lower quality gasket kit/ Loctite 515 combo, and that engine has held up really well, too.
So now my preferred sealants are the anaerobic ones. The Loctote 518/Permatex 51813 is better, though, because it seals but it is a bit flexible, and parts can easily be separated. The 515 bonds stronger and therefore parts get stuck a lot harder.
Thank you for all the good information. I assume this also may work for the type 4 Bus motor?. I hope one day you do a video of the type 4 oil leaks and rebuilds. Thanks.
Another good informative video. The only place I'd say that could have a leak is from crankcase pressure. I've had this where oil would come up past the alternator stand deflector plate and out of the filler neck! Also, mines a 72 and it's swing axle lol..but mines a bit of a odd mix due to the model. A lot of great tips and advice.
Very informative. Thanks!
Great video Mr Slade. Lots of good info.
Great video, I've been working on the aircooled engines for about 30 year's but it's always nice to get someone's else's take on things. I've currently dropped my engine out to fix a few leak and was interested looking at a few videos on the subject. You mentioned the Sands seal I think you said the one behind the pulley. Have you a link so I can check it out. Thanks.
A vw mechanic I knew said the only way he could stop crankcase leaks is to use 3M weatherstrip cement. Also he would not use oil on the rings when assembling, only on the piston skirt. The rings seat much quicker and they get oil as soon as you start it anyway.
Great video! My '67 only has one slight oil leak that drips from one of the heater boxes... I'm assuming it might be coming from the valve cover gasket right above it.
If you’ve rebuilt the engine, and didn’t seal the studs. That’s a famous place to leak. Upper or lower stud, in the corner. Third cylinder.
Great vid! The acorn nuts on the oil pan is my issue, but not now, thank you. Also noticed the DVE plate in the back ground,you a yinzer?
Very informative video! The extra stuff (off topic) was all good! I searched your other videos and could not find a Case sealing and assembly. I have drops forming all along the bottom seam and wonder if i didn't apply the gasket seal (Gasgacinch) right. I wonder if I took too long getting the case halves back together and the sealer was not fluid enough (or just not enough put on...) Does the Aviation sealer take longer to setup than Gasgacinch? (found answer Yes and Gasgacinch sets in 10-15 mins... gotta move quick)
I just skimmed the video but did you mention cam plug, rear main seal, jugs to case, oil pump,etc? A Vw engine can and will leak from “Everywhere” if not assembled correctly with proper sealant for each application
Alternator stand can leak also, did not see that in the video?
As a preventive measure on the oil drain plate holes "dimpling", how about using disposable aluminum crush rings on the bolts - just like on a lot of current oil pan drain bolts? Combine that with a torque wrench and you have an inexpensive preventive solution. You can get these online from many places by the bag.
I know that you used aluminum washers, but I forgot to mention disposable thick ones that are designed to seal better when crushed. I also use these on my transmission drain bolts on all of my vehicles with manual and automatic transmissions, foreign and domestic.
you missed one leak: i only see this on motors that originally equipped with generators and swapped to alternator. to swap them out, you must change the generator stand. i think a lot of the time they didn't use sealer in those stands and that is where you sometimes see leaks. it often seems like the oil cooler leak because the oil pools in the same corner of the tin as it does if the cooler is leaking
Thank you very much for chiming in and leaving a comment with extra tips. I truly appreciate that so much! And so does everyone else.
My wife and I just bought a 1964 beetle with dual carbs and I do t really know anything about how they work but I love these videos because I am trying to learn how to wrench on it but yeah it does leak a lot is it still safe to drive it?
Congratulations on your 64! And thank you for being here. I really don’t like to say anything is safe to drive without being able to see it. However, I would address it as soon as possible and just be safe while you are in it. Make sure the oil was full, I don’t know how bad it is leaking? And make sure it’s not leaking all over the exhaust.
@@SladesVWBeetle thanks for the info…I check the oil before every time that I drive it and it is always right at the line I put some cardboard down underneath it and it drips a little puddle about a couple inches in diameter. I see comments on RUclips that they all leak a little bit but it concerned me. Thanks again!
I was wondering if engine oil is safe to use on these seals I noticed you said the use the grease due to the fact that it doesnt corrode the seal.
Yes, engine oil is safe too! I just grease to seat some of the seals. But only dielectric grease, so it don't corrode seals
okeyyyy
I keep getting fouled plugs on #2 cylinder ,don compression check…120 on all 4
Please. It’s a case, not a block. Block implies one monolithic part. VW and Porsche are built with two piece cases. I know this is picky but it is sort of important. thanks for all the great info.
Thank you for chiming in, and yes I completely agree! You are right my friend
It’s a nasty habit that I’ve gotten into for the last 40 years calling them blocks.
Probably due to working on so many small block Chevy‘s over the year lol thanks for taking the time to leave a comment.
Potato/potato. Order a VW block and a VW case and the same part will be delivered to you🤷🏻♂️
I have an intake question,
I have a 1776 motor with a scat intake. They notched the alternator housing to fit into the fan shroud.
My question is can the heat riser tubes be moved to allow room for alternator with out notching
I have a photo but don't know how to post it
I want a sticker to put in my buggy
Here’s the spot on the website for them. Thanks for being here!
sladesvwbeetle.com/sticker/
Why does oil come out behind my camshaft pulley
❤
No of my beetles leak oil.
Why "dielectric" grease and not just any grease?
It doesn’t corrode rubber
@@SladesVWBeetle Why not rubber grease? The red stuff? I thought dielectric grease was designed for electrical connectors?
Why do VW bugs leak oil? How does a posi track rear end on a Plymouth work? It just does😂 someone says to me, you're bugs leaking oil!! I said it's not leaking oil ,it's just a well-oiled machine🤣✌✌
I had a 1965 Corvair that leaked a quart of oil between gas tank fill-ups. After replacing the push-rod o-rings, it never leaked another drop, not burned any oil. I love air-cooled engines!!!!!!
What shop in CA did you/do you use for case machine work? Also, I have my '68 singe relief case I upgraded to 1600, doghouse, and dual port. I want to have my heads rebuilt including all new valve guides. Who do you recommend I have do my heads? My interest is durability/longevity not "performance".
Greg Tims @ Performance Workshop in Riverside California Rocks!!
Oh you have much to learn
I don’t know everything, nobody does.
@@SladesVWBeetle I agree with that. But why the sealant on push rod tube seal In 45+ years I have never had to do that and I have built many VW engines
@@Fastvw1 I’ve used the sealer quite often and like it. I’ve had a few leak without. I figure it can’t hurt. I really like the aviation sealer. And I did state about using without.
Btw you have some good drag racing videos. But I couldn’t comment on them unfortunately.
So have you been or are you currently in a bike club?
I rode for many years 👍🏻
@@SladesVWBeetle which bike club?
@@jeremyshearer None, just rode forever
@@SladesVWBeetle 🤘🏼
Neither of my cars leak ….that much. If at all.
And I’m asked all the time, how come there isn’t all this mung and drool…..seeping out of every orifice.
And I usually say…I don’t put any oil in them! Ha ha ha…
Ok, ok…seriously.
I look at peoples cars, and I give the pulley a push and pull, and see there is a quarter inch of play.
So, right off the bat…if your crank is walking in the case, your not going to have a dry engine.
And this is just me…so don’t take offense.
When assembling an engine, I use permatex aviation sealant. The brown smelly stuff.
I NEVER use silicone.
And
That’s my secret.
Don't worry nobody saw that
They leak for the same reason you do.
They are OLD!
M kaaay
I’ve been building VW engines for years. I learn that Rector seal #5 from a VW dealership work absolutely awesome. You need to mix your new can with a screw driver. It has a brush in the cap the works well to put on case half’s. Boston Bob tried it and used it for years after I told him about it. Did higher end balanced and blueprinted engines. Rector seal #5 is a pipe sealant that will withstand gas heat and oil. ❤😊