Because I'm a DIYer and time is not money, I always tighten the Makita joining bars whilst holding the two rails against my longest spirit level, double checking for perfect alignment after the rails are joined.
The Makita 3m rail has always been about $225 here in the US, but typically had a $200 freighter charge on top. You really had to find a place that stocked them to make it worthwhile. Then a few years ago Makita offered them direct for $225 plus only $25 shipping. It was delivered by a freight company in an Mdf crate/box to my house. I’m curious what the actual cost to Makita was, certainly more than $25.
I have the Makita rails and learned something in this video! I had no idea the second rail connector goes on the top slot. For years I have only used 1 bar underneath and had no idea, I just always thought the second one was an extra bar and I kept it underneath just as a spare 😅
Thank you as always Peter.👍 For the record I use 2*1400 Festool tracks with V1 joiners but only infrequently and have had no issues. I always set them against a 1.5 level as I tighten up - but really as a precautionary step.😀👍
@@normanboyes4983 I use a 1080 and a 1400, I also have the original v1 Festool jointing rails but I rarely use them. In fact, when I rip sheet goods, I often only put one of them in the bottom slot and it’s been fine.
So glad you explained ‘coins’, you almost lost me there. I have a dewalt track (amongst others!) and their joining bar is tapered at the bottom (imagine a house shape) so that as you tighten, it aligns in the centre of the groove. Not perfect but better than festool pattern join bars I just bought a 3m makita track. I underestimated how big and awkward it is!!
As always Peter very informative , Back in 2007 when i first joined your channel I had this Kreg circular saw guide , just could not make decent cuts due to User inexperience , after seeing your Bench setup i was hooked with the track saw , I bought the cheapest option here in Perth , The brand Ozito , it came with 2 X 700mm tracks and i bought the 1400mm track so i could rip 2400mm length no problems , thanks to you sharing your Knowledge i only use the track saw and found it be probably the most important cutting tool for nearly 90% of the work i am trying to do , and like you said it completely mobile as long as you have access to power . again thankyou for taking the time to share all this great info
Thanks Peter, this is perfect timing for me as I've just bought a second rail, but yet to purchase the connectors ! I'm tempted to have a go at making some from flat bar, as I have plenty of grub-screws and a tap & die set, then I could make them longer and therefore hopefully stiffer !
Great video, Peter. Got a special clamp for clamping the guide rails straight to each other while you’re tightening the connectors (Betterly Straight Line Connector). By the way, looking very much forward to your review of the Metabo work table 😉
That’s an amazing well/over engineered product. I decided to put that money into the 3m rail. I realize not everyone has space for it, or is taking it on location… but it does save a ton of time.
I have to wonder if festool and others have finally upgraded the connections because of videos like yours showing the benefits of Mafell and Bosch tracks and also the new metabo rails. Seeing someone like you showed the benefits of a better connector has more influence than you think Have a awesome day I know there are some disadvantages to the Bosch tracks, but for what I do as an installer of Box cabinets, the Bosch tracks work superior. The ability to clamp closer to the edge of the guide rail is very beneficial, especially when cutting in oven cabinets and farm sinks.
I used to have a festool track saw but changed to the Bosch professional cordless and the track joining is so much better than Festool. Also bought a Bench dogs rail square which was an absolute game changer.
My first TS was a Titan which came with a pair of 700mm and 2 connectors. I bought a 1.4m Makita rail for convenience which is compatible and more recently I bought a 1m Makita rail for my Bench dogs MFT hinge set up. I use the linked Makita rails to cut down bigger sheets but it's rare that I need to. When my Titan died I bought the Makita TS which is a massive upgrade and definitely worth the money. I think the Makita rails also offer good VFM especially if you can get them on offer as did I.
The longer rail is a good option if you have the space to store it, but if for any reason, you have to be mobile with your tools, I’d worry about bending or dinging up such a long piece of hardware. I think there is good convenience in having 2 rails with the connectors, both in terms of versatility of use and the lower cost of replacing 1 of 2 parts were you in the unfortunate situation where you did damage one. Thanks for the in depth review Peter!
Yep. Never did like the Festool connectors. I now use those on connecting tables together, and others I cut in half for attaching accessories to my tables tracks. Instead I have the TSO and AliExpress guide rail connectors. The alignment groves work well, but I'm a bit disappointed in the AliExpress ones as the ones I received are a bit short. I have two 1400 Festool rails and a shorter 800 generic rail I link together for long sheet goods cuts. My 1400 Festool LR32 rail is only used for drilling cabinet holes as the zero clearance edge is cut back so it's flush with the edge. That way my layout jigs work perfectly for drilling holes and groves. .
Bit of scrap aluminium plate, some grub screws and half an hour in the workshop and I made a couple of my own joining bars. The sideways fixing sounds good though.
I have to confess Peter, when the Festool connector I ordered arrived as a single unit, I just presumed you only needed one and that's all I've ever used!
I've never had a problem joining the Festool rails together...as you stated, it just requires a bit of care when connecting and moving them. Having said that, I soon got tired of connecting and then disconnecting them for ripping and then crosscutting operations. It also irks me that the standard 1.4m rail is just a little short for crosscutting a 4ft sheet....I like a bit of rail to run into and out of the cut. I'm fortunate to have the space, so I keep a 3m rail on my cutting deck for rips and a 1.9m with a TSO square for accurate crosscuts...the two 1.4m rails sit in the bag for those rare occasions when I need to be mobile. Fortunately I bought them both before the prices went crazy...I wouldn't want to spend getting on for £500 on them today!
Hey Peter - Nice summary of the joining options. I was hoping to see what your results were with these new FSV/2. My TSO joining bars still require a straight edge even though they are marketed as self-aligning.
Thanks Peter! After we spoke at makers I discovered I’d not been using the upper bar with my makita track. Still seems to curve sadly. Wasn’t sure whether to replace the entire rubber strip and start fresh. I’ve been close to taking the plunge for the 3000mm 🙈.
That’s an odd one alright. Yes, you’re supposed to use two bars with each connection - though I’ll confess I haven’t always! Makita 3-metre rail is good value, but it’s a big old thing that really needs to be stored carefully. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop noted! My other two go back into their box a lot. I’ve got big plans to have the right hand side all cabinets level, should give me a few metres whilst I sort out a place to hang them. It’s also space planned for an MFT which I fully expect to replace most of my mitre saw.
I bought two pairs of the Festool FSV/2 and I'm happy with them. Here in Germany you have to pay about 40 € for one set. If I had to start again, I would propably choose a pair of these nice read guiderails with the simple connectors and a bag from Milwaukee. The Price is about 305 €.
Interesting, thanks. As I think I say in the video they do rely on good QC on the rails - the internal and external measurements of the rib need to be identical. They align well with the Makita rails I have, but appreciate it’s only a tiny sample size. 👍
I join two rails using a 1200mm spirt level to align. I would argue this gives a straighter rail compared to the single rail due to tolerance in a single rail. Peter could you please do a video to compare which is the most accurate for a straight line cut. Also when joining rails leave a small gap between the rails. Thanks.
I think that would be my least watched video tbh, so not likely! Also, many, many variables so hard to make it meaningful. The whole ‘leave a gap between the rails’ thing is only because your rail ends may not be square, or they may be dinged. Mine are square, so I’m fine doing it this way; you should do what’s right for your rails. 👍
Which half of the "wavy bar' is tapered? The grub screw or the hole in the bar? Shopsmith does something similar with their miter bar so that you can make it expand and in their case it is the screw which is tapered.
I noticed that when I butt my festool tracks up to each other I get a cut that is not completely straight. I think the ends of the track may not be completely square. Now I leave a 1mm gap between the rails and they make a perfectly straight line.
What timing. I have just ordered a 3m festool rail out of frustration. I was using 2 x 1400mm rails with the new expanding connector, along with gecko suction cups to hold rails, and was getting a bow in the track... No matter how I connected rails (and I'm a cnc metal engineer by profession, so it's not like I'm clueless to precision and alignment), I can gently persuade a gap on the front side of the rail, and over 2.8m, it was at worst, a 4mm off concave bow at point where rails joined. I would then loosen the top connectors, align rail perfectly, clamp down gecko and edge clamps, re tighten and cut (perfect cuts after alignment), but it takes so long per cut with all the checking and alignment. These inefficiencies are not acceptable for professional grade tools... Each track in itself is really good, so hope the 3m removes this issue
I don't recommend the long rails. Seem like a good idea but what I didn't consider when I bought mine is that these are extrusions and they're not perfect. The longer the rail the greater that margin of error. My 3m Festool rail has about a 4mm bow in the middle. Shorter rails have by their nature less error so IMO you're better off joining shorter rails than having a longer single piece as any error can be compensated for more easily through the joins.
Middle of the month the new evolution track rail is out, interesting to see price quality comparison for the two 1400 with clamps and joining. Unfortunately festool price is a bit beyond me
It does bug me that there is not a perfect rail. I am on Bosch, very easy to join rails. I like the fact they are 1600mm rather than 1400mm. The bench dogs solution for rail square works brilliantly and also MFT options. However there are not the number of aftermarket products for the Bosch / Mafell rails. One think you can say for Festool is they make there tools more often than not backwards compatible. Hats off. One of my biggest bug bears over the last 10 years when all platforms changed to lithium ion batteries all old tools were made obsolete.
@@riba2233 cheers, always good to know re Mikita rails. Not moving from Bosch at the moment the platform I committed to. Good shout re Ryobi platform too. All pro brands changed. Hilti have changed again!
Seems like a no brainer to get the longer rail at that price for 3000 long. I know they're a pain to store but most of us have laders stowed away somewhere, mine hang from the ceiling getting used as shelves most of the time 😂 It's never ideal to join rails but it gets the job done in a pinch. I've only got a load of diddy 700s, which isn't great.
Hey Pete !! Often wondered why you hadn’t built a guide rail for your MFT/ rail hinge set up - that captures the saw base and has splinter guards on both sides in order to negate that waste side rough cut that is mentioned so often, ????
I can't believe all these years since the invention of guide rails we they still haven't come up with something that just fits together without having to look for tiny tools & is straight.
Given the price of all the connectors mentioned I'm surprised people don't buy suitable flat bar and drill/tap their own holes. I also sometimes think that something like 4020 extruded aluminum with suitable fixings might be another alternative.
@@10MinuteWorkshop Good point, working with flat bar would be an opportunity to learn new skills. Working with aluminum extrusion can certainly get complicated very quickly. As I progress in life I find I sound more and more like my parents. "I remember when used to cost " seems to happen more and more. I'm sure I'm the only one.
Excuse my nativity, but doesn’t the alignment come from the square end of the rail? Presumably in manufacture the extrusions just go pass thou an automated cross cut saw?
And nobody has dropped or dinged a rail end, ever? I agree, they should be factory square, but you’re not aligning the ends, you’re aligning the central rib, that the saw runs on. 👍
I made this comment elsewhere but unfortunately my brand new TS 60K couldn't be tightened to the Makita rail snugly. The front adjuster was fine but the rear one ran out of adjustment causing the backend of the saw to wobble as I pushed it along the rail. It was too much slop for my liking. It sucks because the 3000mm Makita rail is $289 and the Festool an eye-watering $880 (AUD)!
That’s very unfortunate! I don’t have a TS50 to try, but I’ve had no issues with the TS55 on Makita rails, though my Makita saw on Festool rails wouldn’t tighten at all, so there’s clearly some small discrepancies between them. I wonder if a thin strip of low-friction tape on one side of the ‘rib’ would give enough adjustment?
Hi Peter, slightly off topic, after your review of the Wolfcraft worktable, have you seen the new Metabo MWB100 Table thta’s recently been released? Looks a far better option to the Wolfcraft for around £200. All round T-slots too! Might be worth a look sometime...
I have these newer connectors. It's a bad design because the connector can bend, even with just hang strength. Get the TSO made ones instead or just get the original.
I bought the V2 version bars about a year ago as I was annoyed with the fiddly Makita joining 2 piece bars. Festool and Makita rails aren't identical. The v2s are noticeablly more snug in my festool rails therefore need to be "overtightened" I feel in my Makita 1.5m rails. After a year's use I have little dimples under both makita rails from the top "std non-spreading" V2 bar digging into the aluminium. If you have festool rails worth getting....Makita ones I say just use the Makita joining bars, the V2s are not designed for them.
When I got my genuine Festool rail joiners several years ago, they came with slotted screws not Allen/hex screws. Not very satisfactory, the screw slot is so wide the screwdriver easily cams out, damaging the screw head and the thread in the joiner, one is now permanently jammed in place but the other 3 screws seem to be enough if I am careful. I think I may have to lash about and get a set of the new joiners, relegating the old ones as spares or for when I want to join 3 rails together.
I know, right? I broke one half of the slot away and fiddled about for ages getting it out. Replaced them with hex screws, which were better. It still worked themselves loose. 🤷♂️
Sorry Peter,but I noticed you butt your rails together then tighten the screws. This isn’t the correct way,you should leave a tiny gap and then use a known straight edge held tight to the edge of both rails,then tighten the screws. You would think that they would be cut perfectly square but apparently they might not be🤔
The whole ‘leave a gap between the rails’ thing is only because your rail ends may not be square (unlikely) or they may be dinged - more likely! Mine are absolutely square, so I’m fine doing it this way; you should do what’s right for your rails of course, regardless of what you see trotted out on RUclips as gospel. 👍
How embarrassing, I never worked out what the second strip of metal does for the Makita joiner. Pity they only sell a single bar and not a pair like Festool. Also could do with a 700mm rail, I don’t feel confident about buying the 1m Makita and cutting it down, but don’t want to spend the money which Festool charge……
Surprised the Makita 3 metre is so cheap at £130 - £140. Really? Why does Festool believe only one of the connectors needs to grip laterally but the other doesn’t? They may be more expensive but the TSO version seems a more elegant solution to avoid damage to the rail from the grub screws, which I recall are captive so don’t get lost!
I literally show you the website with the prices clearly marked - if you want further confirmation Nick, google it. 🤷♂️ 😂 As I say in the vid, I assume that one connector under the guiderail rib is all it takes to align the rail - the second one is only for additional hold. 👍
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Great video! With a small shop, I love my TSO guide rail connectors. They are super straight everytime I use them.
Because I'm a DIYer and time is not money, I always tighten the Makita joining bars whilst holding the two rails against my longest spirit level, double checking for perfect alignment after the rails are joined.
No brainer. I have always regarded my Makita 3m rail as my best value purchase ever.
The Makita 3m rail has always been about $225 here in the US, but typically had a $200 freighter charge on top. You really had to find a place that stocked them to make it worthwhile. Then a few years ago Makita offered them direct for $225 plus only $25 shipping. It was delivered by a freight company in an Mdf crate/box to my house. I’m curious what the actual cost to Makita was, certainly more than $25.
Great video I do like the Bosch Maffke solution , it works well and aligns well
Cheers Dan! 👍
My Makita 3M rail gets used rarely but every time I get it out I’m really glad I’ve got it
I have the Makita rails and learned something in this video! I had no idea the second rail connector goes on the top slot. For years I have only used 1 bar underneath and had no idea, I just always thought the second one was an extra bar and I kept it underneath just as a spare 😅
👍
Thank you as always Peter.👍 For the record I use 2*1400 Festool tracks with V1 joiners but only infrequently and have had no issues. I always set them against a 1.5 level as I tighten up - but really as a precautionary step.😀👍
Thanks Norman! TBH I’ve never had a problem joining rails either, but clearly it’s an issue for some. 🤷♂️👍
@@normanboyes4983 I use a 1080 and a 1400, I also have the original v1 Festool jointing rails but I rarely use them. In fact, when I rip sheet goods, I often only put one of them in the bottom slot and it’s been fine.
So glad you explained ‘coins’, you almost lost me there. I have a dewalt track (amongst others!) and their joining bar is tapered at the bottom (imagine a house shape) so that as you tighten, it aligns in the centre of the groove. Not perfect but better than festool pattern join bars
I just bought a 3m makita track. I underestimated how big and awkward it is!!
As always Peter very informative , Back in 2007 when i first joined your channel I had this Kreg circular saw guide , just could not make decent cuts due to User inexperience , after seeing your Bench setup i was hooked with the track saw , I bought the cheapest option here in Perth , The brand Ozito , it came with 2 X 700mm tracks and i bought the 1400mm track so i could rip 2400mm length no problems , thanks to you sharing your Knowledge i only use the track saw and found it be probably the most important cutting tool for nearly 90% of the work i am trying to do , and like you said it completely mobile as long as you have access to power . again thankyou for taking the time to share all this great info
Thank you! 👍🙌
TSO connectors are fantastic
Thanks Peter, this is perfect timing for me as I've just bought a second rail, but yet to purchase the connectors !
I'm tempted to have a go at making some from flat bar, as I have plenty of grub-screws and a tap & die set, then I could make them longer and therefore hopefully stiffer !
Great video, Peter. Got a special clamp for clamping the guide rails straight to each other while you’re tightening the connectors (Betterly Straight Line Connector).
By the way, looking very much forward to your review of the Metabo work table 😉
That’s an amazing well/over engineered product. I decided to put that money into the 3m rail. I realize not everyone has space for it, or is taking it on location… but it does save a ton of time.
Always informative.Thank you Peter.
Thank you! 👍
I have to wonder if festool and others have finally upgraded the connections because of videos like yours showing the benefits of Mafell and Bosch tracks and also the new metabo rails.
Seeing someone like you showed the benefits of a better connector has more influence than you think Have a awesome day I know there are some disadvantages to the Bosch tracks, but for what I do as an installer of Box cabinets, the Bosch tracks work superior. The ability to clamp closer to the edge of the guide rail is very beneficial, especially when cutting in oven cabinets and farm sinks.
Hi Peter, I like the look of FSV/2 connectors, less damage to the track when installing.
as always a great video, Take care
Thanks Shaun! 👍
I used to have a festool track saw but changed to the Bosch professional cordless and the track joining is so much better than Festool. Also bought a Bench dogs rail square which was an absolute game changer.
As ever, thanks for the great info Peter
My first TS was a Titan which came with a pair of 700mm and 2 connectors. I bought a 1.4m Makita rail for convenience which is compatible and more recently I bought a 1m Makita rail for my Bench dogs MFT hinge set up. I use the linked Makita rails to cut down bigger sheets but it's rare that I need to. When my Titan died I bought the Makita TS which is a massive upgrade and definitely worth the money. I think the Makita rails also offer good VFM especially if you can get them on offer as did I.
Really interesting indeed, Peter! Thanks for the review and all the info! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks! You too! 👍
The longer rail is a good option if you have the space to store it, but if for any reason, you have to be mobile with your tools, I’d worry about bending or dinging up such a long piece of hardware. I think there is good convenience in having 2 rails with the connectors, both in terms of versatility of use and the lower cost of replacing 1 of 2 parts were you in the unfortunate situation where you did damage one. Thanks for the in depth review Peter!
Thanks! 👍
Yep. Never did like the Festool connectors. I now use those on connecting tables together, and others I cut in half for attaching accessories to my tables tracks. Instead I have the TSO and AliExpress guide rail connectors. The alignment groves work well, but I'm a bit disappointed in the AliExpress ones as the ones I received are a bit short. I have two 1400 Festool rails and a shorter 800 generic rail I link together for long sheet goods cuts.
My 1400 Festool LR32 rail is only used for drilling cabinet holes as the zero clearance edge is cut back so it's flush with the edge. That way my layout jigs work perfectly for drilling holes and groves. .
Informative and entertaining as ever, very much enjoyed watching this ❤
Thanks! 👍
Thanks Peter. Always interesting 👍
Bit of scrap aluminium plate, some grub screws and half an hour in the workshop and I made a couple of my own joining bars. The sideways fixing sounds good though.
I have to confess Peter, when the Festool connector I ordered arrived as a single unit, I just presumed you only needed one and that's all I've ever used!
😂 Easily done Leo! 👍
I've never had a problem joining the Festool rails together...as you stated, it just requires a bit of care when connecting and moving them. Having said that, I soon got tired of connecting and then disconnecting them for ripping and then crosscutting operations. It also irks me that the standard 1.4m rail is just a little short for crosscutting a 4ft sheet....I like a bit of rail to run into and out of the cut. I'm fortunate to have the space, so I keep a 3m rail on my cutting deck for rips and a 1.9m with a TSO square for accurate crosscuts...the two 1.4m rails sit in the bag for those rare occasions when I need to be mobile. Fortunately I bought them both before the prices went crazy...I wouldn't want to spend getting on for £500 on them today!
Great share as always. Thanks.
Hey Peter - Nice summary of the joining options. I was hoping to see what your results were with these new FSV/2. My TSO joining bars still require a straight edge even though they are marketed as self-aligning.
Good to know, thanks! 👍
Thanks Peter! After we spoke at makers I discovered I’d not been using the upper bar with my makita track. Still seems to curve sadly. Wasn’t sure whether to replace the entire rubber strip and start fresh. I’ve been close to taking the plunge for the 3000mm 🙈.
That’s an odd one alright. Yes, you’re supposed to use two bars with each connection - though I’ll confess I haven’t always! Makita 3-metre rail is good value, but it’s a big old thing that really needs to be stored carefully. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop noted! My other two go back into their box a lot. I’ve got big plans to have the right hand side all cabinets level, should give me a few metres whilst I sort out a place to hang them. It’s also space planned for an MFT which I fully expect to replace most of my mitre saw.
I bought two pairs of the Festool FSV/2 and I'm happy with them. Here in Germany you have to pay about 40 € for one set.
If I had to start again, I would propably choose a pair of these nice read guiderails with the simple connectors and a bag from Milwaukee. The Price is about 305 €.
Interesting, thanks! I’ve no experience of the Milwaukee rails - are they Festool pattern??
@@10MinuteWorkshop Yes, the same es Makita or Metabo, but with this nice red anodized colour
I have these newer festool connectors and even with them my two makita rails don't sit straight somehow.
Same.
@@markhedquist9597 ok so I am not crazy, that is good to know, thanks :)
Interesting, thanks. As I think I say in the video they do rely on good QC on the rails - the internal and external measurements of the rib need to be identical. They align well with the Makita rails I have, but appreciate it’s only a tiny sample size. 👍
How does it compare to Tso?
About half the price here in the UK, and that’s all I need to know. 👍
I join two rails using a 1200mm spirt level to align. I would argue this gives a straighter rail compared to the single rail due to tolerance in a single rail. Peter could you please do a video to compare which is the most accurate for a straight line cut. Also when joining rails leave a small gap between the rails. Thanks.
I think that would be my least watched video tbh, so not likely! Also, many, many variables so hard to make it meaningful. The whole ‘leave a gap between the rails’ thing is only because your rail ends may not be square, or they may be dinged. Mine are square, so I’m fine doing it this way; you should do what’s right for your rails. 👍
Thank you very informative.
gotta use a straight edge to get straight cuts with the old connectors
Which half of the "wavy bar' is tapered? The grub screw or the hole in the bar? Shopsmith does something similar with their miter bar so that you can make it expand and in their case it is the screw which is tapered.
I assumed it was the bar, rather than a proprietary grub screw, but with Festool, nothing would surprise me… 🤷♂️👍
Very interesting 👌
I noticed that when I butt my festool tracks up to each other I get a cut that is not completely straight. I think the ends of the track may not be completely square. Now I leave a 1mm gap between the rails and they make a perfectly straight line.
I’ve never had a track that didn’t have square ends, it if yours aren’t - or if they’re dinged up - then yes, leaving a small gap is a good idea. 👍
Hi Peter!
In Sweden you can buy 2,7 meters Rails from Festool as an alternative to 2,4.
You can. But a 2440 rail would make more sense than a 2.4m 👍
What timing. I have just ordered a 3m festool rail out of frustration. I was using 2 x 1400mm rails with the new expanding connector, along with gecko suction cups to hold rails, and was getting a bow in the track... No matter how I connected rails (and I'm a cnc metal engineer by profession, so it's not like I'm clueless to precision and alignment), I can gently persuade a gap on the front side of the rail, and over 2.8m, it was at worst, a 4mm off concave bow at point where rails joined. I would then loosen the top connectors, align rail perfectly, clamp down gecko and edge clamps, re tighten and cut (perfect cuts after alignment), but it takes so long per cut with all the checking and alignment.
These inefficiencies are not acceptable for professional grade tools...
Each track in itself is really good, so hope the 3m removes this issue
I don't recommend the long rails. Seem like a good idea but what I didn't consider when I bought mine is that these are extrusions and they're not perfect. The longer the rail the greater that margin of error. My 3m Festool rail has about a 4mm bow in the middle. Shorter rails have by their nature less error so IMO you're better off joining shorter rails than having a longer single piece as any error can be compensated for more easily through the joins.
Middle of the month the new evolution track rail is out, interesting to see price quality comparison for the two 1400 with clamps and joining. Unfortunately festool price is a bit beyond me
Yes indeed. One to watch out for. 👍
It does bug me that there is not a perfect rail. I am on Bosch, very easy to join rails. I like the fact they are 1600mm rather than 1400mm. The bench dogs solution for rail square works brilliantly and also MFT options. However there are not the number of aftermarket products for the Bosch / Mafell rails.
One think you can say for
Festool is they make there tools more often than not backwards compatible. Hats off.
One of my biggest bug bears over the last 10 years when all platforms changed to lithium ion batteries all old tools were made obsolete.
Not all, Ryobi ones stayed on the same battery format.
Also makita rails are 1.5m now instead of 1.4 if that helps :)
@@riba2233 cheers, always good to know re Mikita rails. Not moving from Bosch at the moment the platform I committed to. Good shout re Ryobi platform too. All pro brands changed. Hilti have changed again!
Seems like a no brainer to get the longer rail at that price for 3000 long. I know they're a pain to store but most of us have laders stowed away somewhere, mine hang from the ceiling getting used as shelves most of the time 😂 It's never ideal to join rails but it gets the job done in a pinch. I've only got a load of diddy 700s, which isn't great.
Yes, 4x700 rails joined together is asking for trouble, lol! 👍
Hey Pete !! Often wondered why you hadn’t built a guide rail for your MFT/ rail hinge set up - that captures the saw base and has splinter guards on both sides in order to negate that waste side rough cut that is mentioned so often, ????
That would be quite the challenge to make, and for an issue that’s not *that* much of an issue, tbh. 🤷♂️👍
I can't believe all these years since the invention of guide rails we they still haven't come up with something that just fits together without having to look for tiny tools & is straight.
I think every Mafell or Bosch user would say that they have, but I know what you mean! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Yeh I this a better solution is possible ✌
Given the price of all the connectors mentioned I'm surprised people don't buy suitable flat bar and drill/tap their own holes. I also sometimes think that something like 4020 extruded aluminum with suitable fixings might be another alternative.
Requires metalworking skills - and materials - which many don’t have. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Good point, working with flat bar would be an opportunity to learn new skills. Working with aluminum extrusion can certainly get complicated very quickly. As I progress in life I find I sound more and more like my parents. "I remember when used to cost " seems to happen more and more. I'm sure I'm the only one.
Excuse my nativity, but doesn’t the alignment come from the square end of the rail? Presumably in manufacture the extrusions just go pass thou an automated cross cut saw?
And nobody has dropped or dinged a rail end, ever? I agree, they should be factory square, but you’re not aligning the ends, you’re aligning the central rib, that the saw runs on. 👍
I made this comment elsewhere but unfortunately my brand new TS 60K couldn't be tightened to the Makita rail snugly. The front adjuster was fine but the rear one ran out of adjustment causing the backend of the saw to wobble as I pushed it along the rail. It was too much slop for my liking. It sucks because the 3000mm Makita rail is $289 and the Festool an eye-watering $880 (AUD)!
That’s very unfortunate! I don’t have a TS50 to try, but I’ve had no issues with the TS55 on Makita rails, though my Makita saw on Festool rails wouldn’t tighten at all, so there’s clearly some small discrepancies between them. I wonder if a thin strip of low-friction tape on one side of the ‘rib’ would give enough adjustment?
@@10MinuteWorkshop That's a good idea, I'll give it a go! Cheers!
Hi Peter, slightly off topic, after your review of the Wolfcraft worktable, have you seen the new Metabo MWB100 Table thta’s recently been released? Looks a far better option to the Wolfcraft for around £200. All round T-slots too! Might be worth a look sometime...
I have one pre-ordered… 👍
I have these newer connectors. It's a bad design because the connector can bend, even with just hang strength. Get the TSO made ones instead or just get the original.
I bought the V2 version bars about a year ago as I was annoyed with the fiddly Makita joining 2 piece bars. Festool and Makita rails aren't identical. The v2s are noticeablly more snug in my festool rails therefore need to be "overtightened" I feel in my Makita 1.5m rails. After a year's use I have little dimples under both makita rails from the top "std non-spreading" V2 bar digging into the aluminium.
If you have festool rails worth getting....Makita ones I say just use the Makita joining bars, the V2s are not designed for them.
Every time I look at these new festool “innovations” I wonder, why did I go down this rabbit hole, and is it too late to extricate myself.
When I got my genuine Festool rail joiners several years ago, they came with slotted screws not Allen/hex screws. Not very satisfactory, the screw slot is so wide the screwdriver easily cams out, damaging the screw head and the thread in the joiner, one is now permanently jammed in place but the other 3 screws seem to be enough if I am careful. I think I may have to lash about and get a set of the new joiners, relegating the old ones as spares or for when I want to join 3 rails together.
I know, right? I broke one half of the slot away and fiddled about for ages getting it out. Replaced them with hex screws, which were better. It still worked themselves loose. 🤷♂️
I've always disliked the grub screws as they tend to fall out from vibration when not in use.
Yep. 👍
Sorry Peter,but I noticed you butt your rails together then tighten the screws. This isn’t the correct way,you should leave a tiny gap and then use a known straight edge held tight to the edge of both rails,then tighten the screws. You would think that they would be cut perfectly square but apparently they might not be🤔
The whole ‘leave a gap between the rails’ thing is only because your rail ends may not be square (unlikely) or they may be dinged - more likely! Mine are absolutely square, so I’m fine doing it this way; you should do what’s right for your rails of course, regardless of what you see trotted out on RUclips as gospel. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop oh I see thanks Peter, I’ll check mine today 👍👍
How embarrassing, I never worked out what the second strip of metal does for the Makita joiner. Pity they only sell a single bar and not a pair like Festool. Also could do with a 700mm rail, I don’t feel confident about buying the 1m Makita and cutting it down, but don’t want to spend the money which Festool charge……
Nooice!
You have fitted them in the wrong slots... Please show correct. The expanding joiner must not be on the outer part of the track.
On the thumbnail? Why don’t think there’s a big red ❌ against it? If you bothered to watch the video and you’ll see them fitted correctly. 👍
Surprised the Makita 3 metre is so cheap at £130 - £140. Really? Why does Festool believe only one of the connectors needs to grip laterally but the other doesn’t? They may be more expensive but the TSO version seems a more elegant solution to avoid damage to the rail from the grub screws, which I recall are captive so don’t get lost!
I literally show you the website with the prices clearly marked - if you want further confirmation Nick, google it. 🤷♂️ 😂 As I say in the vid, I assume that one connector under the guiderail rib is all it takes to align the rail - the second one is only for additional hold. 👍
My two joined makita rails are never straight. I hate them.
For nativity plse read naivety!!
I was wondering… 😂😂👍