Great vid man, lots of details and great view angles of the turbo, egr cooler and intake manifold. Its difficult to see everything when you are under the car 😅 looking over axles, exhaust, etc.. Thanks!
That’s what some of the kits look like they come with, I was a little afraid of having the small nut inside the turbo on the plug but I guess most/if not all probably weld the nut to the plate that squishes the rubber.
@@JoshsJettas the one I picked up is just a bolt head that’s flat. Nuts on the outside. Oil galley plug meant to be on the crank case. Doorman part 02601 1 1/4”-1 3/8” just did a fit test works perfect. Gonna put a little thread lock on. Will update after complete. This delete has been nerve racking. Started with the drive belt tensioner and turned in complete ac alternator oil filter housing gasket thermostat housing and complete timing belt and all parts associated with that. Was terrified about the timing but dang they did a good job making sure that you could diy timing.
Awesome video. I have coolant mixing with my oil currently on my cjaa, confirmed it’s not head gasket/injectors. Would using this elbow be enough to delete the egr? Or is the block off of the coolant port on the turbo necessary as well? Also can this be done with the downpipe still on the car? Need to tackle this and have a horrible space to work.
Your channel is so informative when I’m trying to figure out what I want to do with my CJAA. If I ran both coolant hoses together that would bypass the heater core? So I would have to run a coolant hose from the head to the heater core to still have heat in the winter correct?
Thank you, most kits will use a splice so remove the 2 egr cooler connections and plug them into each other with the splice. Heater core will function as normal.
Have had the EGR disabled and blocked but starting to see black mix in with coolant reservoir. Im thinking the EGR is leaking and may have to go ahead remove, and flush the cooling system out. Thanks the video. But I also cannot find the parts kit blocking plates, etc from the website.
My main purpose to remove the EGR is to prevent hydro locking. If I just put in a blocker plate for the high pressure EGR, would I need to block the low pressure ERG, or do anything else, aside from flashing the computer to code it? I read in another comment that the tune will shut it off, so there is no need to block it. In that case, could I just get away with a tune? My back isn’t great to the less work the better. Im having a huge issue with hydro locking. Just remedied it with no engine damage though trying to avoid future potentials. Amazing video by the way, thank you. I see tunezilla wants 750 dollars for the coding and device, is there a cheaper way to get this done?
The low pressure egr (and cooler) introduce the water into the system, the high pressure just introduces soot. Usually the low pressure get blocked off during a delete as you no longer have the exhaust connection and the high pressure can stay untouched and just shut off in the tune. As far as emissions intact but shutting the egr’s off I’m not sure what they can do, you might have to reach out to the tuner. There’s other options, you could install a blocker plate at the cooler and don’t worry about tuning it’ll throw a p0401 but that’s better then hydrolock. Another option is install a winter front to block the cooling package, it ices up slowly because the intercooler is so cold and moisture is constantly being added and the ice slowly accumulates. Depending on weather (or if you park in a garage) that ice results in a no start or it melts and hydrolock. Last option is drill a very tiny hole in the intercooler or pipe, it’ll make a consistent boost leak but should drain any moisture although I’ve never done it As far as tuning MR Tuning is another option, last time I got a tune and flasher it was $700 Canadian.
@@JoshsJettas Thank you so much, I greatly appreciate the knowledge :) I think I will go with pipe insulation between the grill slots infront of the intercooler to start and see how this works. Cheap and easy and save me from having to get under the car. Thank you again Josh
Any tips on removing the high pressure EGR pipe? I plan on removing the EGR, and at least the high pressure pipe, before I do the timing belt and CP3 conversion this weekend. Thanks!
Hi Josh, I have a stock CJAA in a 2012 Golf. And I have an oil leak coming from the turbo area. There’s a bit of oil around the charge pipe connector off the turbo but I see the grommet around the low pressure EGR line going into the turbo is pushed out and it’s a bit oily there too. Could it leak oil from there? I thought there would be suction there.
The crank case ventilation feeds into the turbo intake just ahead of that. Besides the turbo dumping oil there my guess is a bit of oil might be pooling from the ccv and leaking out, especially if it looks like the grommets cock eyed
Ok, thanks. I think I’ll replace the EGR grommet. Is it normal/OK for the CCV to be putting that much oil in the intake? On the same car I’m having issues once in a while where it will seem like it’s Hydro locked. After quite a few tries, it’ll finally start but run very rough and shut off a few times. I feel like it’s fuel Hydro locking. I’ve already checked intercooler and there’s no water in it. Have you run across this before? Any ideas?
@danielgerber8543 yeah mine gets damp there too, the vacuum pump discharges air up there as well so it can add a bit more air that needs to escape and some oil vapour can go along with it. As far as the hydrolock you’d have to be loosing a fair bit of oil. I have had them lock up before and there end up just being a touch of water in there as the engine had already ingested all the water by the time I pulled the charge pipe. I would try either temporarily blocking the low pressure egr or installing a winter front of some sorts to see if you can prevent intercooler icing.
Hey Josh, quick question I think!! I have a 2013 TDI, which has the CJAA engine and when I try to follow these instructions to delete the cooler, the line to the bottom of the turbo does not look like yours or any others. I’ve seen on RUclips. The rubber expansion plug. Everybody says you need is way too big. On mine the pipe is held in place by two 10 mm bolts, which, Also have a 30 Torque Head Center. I assume I can just whip up a block off plate to put on there but I was curious why I’m not seeing that on anyone else’s videos. thought you might know.
@aaron___6014 assuming you got a quality tune there shouldn’t be any issues. You still have the pre-turbo egt sensor, I don’t know for sure but I assume there will be a power cut at a certain temp.
I have a bunch of issues stemming from the emossions system, plugged egr/dpf although dpf light isnt on, as well as when it's very cold it can be a very hard start likely due to the ice in the intercooler, my question is what is required to prevent further carbon build up and to extend the life of the car? Can I get away with just the hp block off plate or will I be required to do the entire process in the video? Thanks for any help you can spare this has been a disaster
intercooler icing/hydrolock issue stems from the low pressure egr introducing moisture, this was never an issue on earlier tdi's with high pressure only systems. Few options besides a complete delete would be installing a blocker on the low pressure line right at the cooler. The winter front/pool noodle set up could possibly keep the intercooler above freezing so the moisture can slowly be ingested instead of freezing into a block and then hard starting or thawing and hydro locking.
If I go with the DPF&EGR delete will my engine take longer to heat up in colder temps ( I’m asking cause I saw mark Malone from Malone tuning mention something about it ) ? Also if I do the EGR delete in theory can I disconnect the EGR sensors and shut them off but leave them in place without putting the blockers so all I would have to do is the turbo back DPF delete straight pipe with the tune?
@JoshsJettas my bad but I do have one more question too on top of the original one. If I delete the dpf and do a straight pipe from the turbo all the way back am I able to do a Malone active EGR tune so I do not have to remove the EGRs I’ve heard of people doing that as well?
@@eliashill7161 might take a little bit longer but the dynamic idle will help with that. Simplest way is install a blocker on the egr cooler and don’t touch anything else, the tune will take care of it. EGR cant be enabled with the dpf delete, I have a video in the CR TDI playlist that I walk through purchasing and installed the tunezilla/Malone (as well as a discount code).
Oh no, I dropped a couple parts. Where did they go? Oh I think I found them, I must have dropped them in to these boxes that i just got that say rawtek and darkside. Yes they look like the parts that belong there.
Hey Josh, if you’ve deleted the low pressure EGR and tuned the EGR out already, is there any consequence to also deleting the high pressure EGR line to the intake manifold? This would be to gain better access to the oil filter primarily.
@@JoshsJettas Thanks for all your support, I have an issue after all the tuning I still have EGR related problems on scanner which is not allowing me to pass inspection any thoughts on why? I have all the required software. Thanks
@@user-qu7wc7uk2h is it a code or just not readiness set? Malone sets monitors to not ready so it’ll automatically fail even without it throwing a code. If you require readiness you might need a different tuner
How about a freeze plug first, then an expanding plug? That stops the chance of the expanding plug sending a nut or bolt into the impeller in the case of a bolt breaking in the expanding plug. Has anyone measured the inside with a micrometer to know the freeze plug size?
I want to make up a rubber plug that slips inside as well as outside and gets held on with a hose clamp. I don’t think the expanding plugs are oil compatible either.
@JoshsJettas the expanding plug used on caterpillar engines for the oil fill cap last decades. They degrade slowly but it's just rubber and always wet with oil. They get removed about once a week and still last atleast 15 years . Plus i plan to remove the ccv and just put a road draft tube, shouldn't be oil there anymore.
Any tips for removing the EGR cooler with the engine in the car? I've heard people say you can do it without removing the turbo oil drain, but if I need to remove the drain how hard is that to do?
well I did it today, you CAN get the cooler out without touching the turbo oil lines, but it is a serious PITA. You have to unscrew the 6 screws that hold the 2 parts of the cooler together, seriously not fun but that will allow you to get it out without disturbing the turbo (This was on a 2014 Jetta TDI, so others may be different)
@@JoshsJettas I was ready to install my parts over the weekend and didn't have new gaskets for the drain so taking it off wasn't an option in my mind. I just started ripping into it LOL Also my darkside kit came with a straight joiner for the coolant lines, I probably could've made it work by trimming the stock lines because it was heavily kinked, but I opted for a quick run to the parts store for about 3 feet of hose and cut a new line to fit, much cleaner looking and no kinks! Also possibly worth mentioning, the darkside kit comes with a silicon cap with a worm clamp for the turbo EGR cooler hole instead of the plug, I was also worried about the plug failing and ending up in the turbo. The problem is there is a square piece (your thumb is on it at 9:31) that sticks off, you basically have to take a dremel to it and smooth it out for the cap and clamp to seal nicely, but if you do that it's a perfect solution.
@EJB93 I had seen someone post something like that the other day. I think that’s a really good idea (I wasn’t keen on that boat plug). My welded plug seems to be accumulating dust so I think the weld might be sleeping a little bit of oil/blow by out, I’ll have to look into a cap kit to work.
I specifically bought the darkside one because of that, there was only 1 other kit that offered the cap that I could find and the site looked sketchy. Now that I know what I was dealing with, im sure a similar cap can be found fairly cheap elsewhere. That UK shipping price was ridiculous.
Do I have to take the whole engine out like that? I don't have a garage, I was hoping it would be possible to just jack the car up and do it that way but I guess not...
@@JoshsJettas Thanks for the reply. I have another question. If my DPF is giving code P2002 and my EGR is P0104 insufficient flow, does that mean that my EGR filter is clogged with soot and my DPF filter is cracked allowing soot to enter the filter and clog it? If I, in the meantime, while I'm figuring out what downpipe kit to order (Mec Evo's website is not allowing me to open an account and place an order for some reason) would just doing the tune be better for my car in the meantime while I'm waiting for the other parts to arrive and an opportune moment to do the install? I need a way to get to work.
Exactly, I would go on MR Tuning website, order the stage 2 tune and there should be a drop down for a downpipe, mec evo and MR tuning both sell the same flowdirekt downpipe.
@@JoshsJettas That is what I ended up doing. The downpipe installed ok except I had to buy a small adapter from O'Reilly's to get it to fit just right to on the muffler end.
Is this the 2012 TDI 2.0??? I have messaged you before about mine and was talking about it. I'm ready to order parts to delete so I can fix my daughter's car. Would be great if we could direct message through an app or something so I can speak with you about what all I need to do. Let me know if that would be possible?
Thank you so much Josh, I LOVE the deep explanations on all the components, what they do and solutions for removing them safely. You rock!!!
Massive help. About to start mine next week for “cleaning”
Great vid man, lots of details and great view angles of the turbo, egr cooler and intake manifold. Its difficult to see everything when you are under the car 😅 looking over axles, exhaust, etc.. Thanks!
HUGE help! Thank you.
Excellent video!
Boat plug works the best from what I’ve been reading for the underside of the turbo egr inlet
That’s what some of the kits look like they come with, I was a little afraid of having the small nut inside the turbo on the plug but I guess most/if not all probably weld the nut to the plate that squishes the rubber.
@@JoshsJettas the one I picked up is just a bolt head that’s flat. Nuts on the outside. Oil galley plug meant to be on the crank case. Doorman part 02601 1 1/4”-1 3/8” just did a fit test works perfect. Gonna put a little thread lock on. Will update after complete. This delete has been nerve racking. Started with the drive belt tensioner and turned in complete ac alternator oil filter housing gasket thermostat housing and complete timing belt and all parts associated with that. Was terrified about the timing but dang they did a good job making sure that you could diy timing.
Awesome video. I have coolant mixing with my oil currently on my cjaa, confirmed it’s not head gasket/injectors. Would using this elbow be enough to delete the egr? Or is the block off of the coolant port on the turbo necessary as well? Also can this be done with the downpipe still on the car? Need to tackle this and have a horrible space to work.
What is the advantages of deleting egr and cooler
Your channel is so informative when I’m trying to figure out what I want to do with my CJAA. If I ran both coolant hoses together that would bypass the heater core? So I would have to run a coolant hose from the head to the heater core to still have heat in the winter correct?
Thank you, most kits will use a splice so remove the 2 egr cooler connections and plug them into each other with the splice. Heater core will function as normal.
@@JoshsJettas thank you for the info!
Have had the EGR disabled and blocked but starting to see black mix in with coolant reservoir. Im thinking the EGR is leaking and may have to go ahead remove, and flush the cooling system out. Thanks the video. But I also cannot find the parts kit blocking plates, etc from the website.
I believe tune my euro and cascade German might have removed some of the blockers from their listings, I’d check with mec evo here in Canada
What about the MEC EVO EGR Delete kit? It comes w/ a hose and a plug for the turbo.
The billet plug and 90? Looks nice, mec evo has quality parts so that’s definitely a route I’d recommend.
Hi Josh does the high pressure EGR pipe on the turbo have easy enough access to get at without removing the turbo?
Yes, not real fun but it’s accessible with some extensions
My main purpose to remove the EGR is to prevent hydro locking. If I just put in a blocker plate for the high pressure EGR, would I need to block the low pressure ERG, or do anything else, aside from flashing the computer to code it? I read in another comment that the tune will shut it off, so there is no need to block it. In that case, could I just get away with a tune? My back isn’t great to the less work the better. Im having a huge issue with hydro locking. Just remedied it with no engine damage though trying to avoid future potentials.
Amazing video by the way, thank you.
I see tunezilla wants 750 dollars for the coding and device, is there a cheaper way to get this done?
The low pressure egr (and cooler) introduce the water into the system, the high pressure just introduces soot. Usually the low pressure get blocked off during a delete as you no longer have the exhaust connection and the high pressure can stay untouched and just shut off in the tune. As far as emissions intact but shutting the egr’s off I’m not sure what they can do, you might have to reach out to the tuner.
There’s other options, you could install a blocker plate at the cooler and don’t worry about tuning it’ll throw a p0401 but that’s better then hydrolock. Another option is install a winter front to block the cooling package, it ices up slowly because the intercooler is so cold and moisture is constantly being added and the ice slowly accumulates. Depending on weather (or if you park in a garage) that ice results in a no start or it melts and hydrolock. Last option is drill a very tiny hole in the intercooler or pipe, it’ll make a consistent boost leak but should drain any moisture although I’ve never done it
As far as tuning MR Tuning is another option, last time I got a tune and flasher it was $700 Canadian.
@@JoshsJettas Thank you so much, I greatly appreciate the knowledge :) I think I will go with pipe insulation between the grill slots infront of the intercooler to start and see how this works. Cheap and easy and save me from having to get under the car. Thank you again Josh
Could I leave the high pressure line in and just cap it off at the EGR value, so I don’t have to fish around in the back?
Yeah it can just be capped, the tune will shut it off as well so no need to block it off technically
Any tips on removing the high pressure EGR pipe? I plan on removing the EGR, and at least the high pressure pipe, before I do the timing belt and CP3 conversion this weekend. Thanks!
Pull the turbo intake and you can wiggle it out if you bend it a fair bit.
@@JoshsJettas That was a tough pipe to remove!
Is there an egr valve that can be unplugged on the high pressure side?
Yes right on the intake where the egr tube is mounted, it should be written out in the tune though
Hi Josh, I have a stock CJAA in a 2012 Golf. And I have an oil leak coming from the turbo area. There’s a bit of oil around the charge pipe connector off the turbo but I see the grommet around the low pressure EGR line going into the turbo is pushed out and it’s a bit oily there too. Could it leak oil from there? I thought there would be suction there.
The crank case ventilation feeds into the turbo intake just ahead of that. Besides the turbo dumping oil there my guess is a bit of oil might be pooling from the ccv and leaking out, especially if it looks like the grommets cock eyed
Ok, thanks.
I think I’ll replace the EGR grommet. Is it normal/OK for the CCV to be putting that much oil in the intake?
On the same car I’m having issues once in a while where it will seem like it’s Hydro locked. After quite a few tries, it’ll finally start but run very rough and shut off a few times. I feel like it’s fuel Hydro locking. I’ve already checked intercooler and there’s no water in it. Have you run across this before? Any ideas?
@danielgerber8543 yeah mine gets damp there too, the vacuum pump discharges air up there as well so it can add a bit more air that needs to escape and some oil vapour can go along with it.
As far as the hydrolock you’d have to be loosing a fair bit of oil. I have had them lock up before and there end up just being a touch of water in there as the engine had already ingested all the water by the time I pulled the charge pipe. I would try either temporarily blocking the low pressure egr or installing a winter front of some sorts to see if you can prevent intercooler icing.
Hey Josh, quick question I think!! I have a 2013 TDI, which has the CJAA engine and when I try to follow these instructions to delete the cooler, the line to the bottom of the turbo does not look like yours or any others. I’ve seen on RUclips. The rubber expansion plug. Everybody says you need is way too big. On mine the pipe is held in place by two 10 mm bolts, which, Also have a 30 Torque Head Center. I assume I can just whip up a block off plate to put on there but I was curious why I’m not seeing that on anyone else’s videos. thought you might know.
The earlier engines were cbea but they share the same turbo as well. Instead of being a slip fit into the turbo like mine the pipe is bolted on?
Yes. It looks like a small block off plate with do the trick but I was curious if you were familiar.
My bad. I was looking at this all wrong.
I'm pretty sure my EGR filter is clogged. Can I just not touch my EGR in a pinch? Sorry if that's a dumb question?
Yeah it’s not going to hurt anything except throw a code
Josh
Is there any problem not to remove the egr cooler and leaving the water line intact
Just block off the dpf connection?
Not at all, as long as the cooler isn’t leaking coolant internally it can just be blocked off with the blocker plate.
With a block low pressure egr is there any worry about the higher combustion temperatures?
@aaron___6014 assuming you got a quality tune there shouldn’t be any issues. You still have the pre-turbo egt sensor, I don’t know for sure but I assume there will be a power cut at a certain temp.
Hello, I only blocked off the egr cooler filter did the dpf delete and tune and its been working great for 1 year. No high temps nor coolant leaks.
I have a bunch of issues stemming from the emossions system, plugged egr/dpf although dpf light isnt on, as well as when it's very cold it can be a very hard start likely due to the ice in the intercooler, my question is what is required to prevent further carbon build up and to extend the life of the car? Can I get away with just the hp block off plate or will I be required to do the entire process in the video? Thanks for any help you can spare this has been a disaster
intercooler icing/hydrolock issue stems from the low pressure egr introducing moisture, this was never an issue on earlier tdi's with high pressure only systems. Few options besides a complete delete would be installing a blocker on the low pressure line right at the cooler. The winter front/pool noodle set up could possibly keep the intercooler above freezing so the moisture can slowly be ingested instead of freezing into a block and then hard starting or thawing and hydro locking.
@JoshsJettas that is incredibly helpful. You are the man, thank you and I hope you have a great holiday, cheers!
If I go with the DPF&EGR delete will my engine take longer to heat up in colder temps ( I’m asking cause I saw mark Malone from Malone tuning mention something about it ) ? Also if I do the EGR delete in theory can I disconnect the EGR sensors and shut them off but leave them in place without putting the blockers so all I would have to do is the turbo back DPF delete straight pipe with the tune?
I meant to say leave the EGR pump in place **
@JoshsJettas my bad but I do have one more question too on top of the original one. If I delete the dpf and do a straight pipe from the turbo all the way back am I able to do a Malone active EGR tune so I do not have to remove the EGRs I’ve heard of people doing that as well?
@@eliashill7161 might take a little bit longer but the dynamic idle will help with that. Simplest way is install a blocker on the egr cooler and don’t touch anything else, the tune will take care of it. EGR cant be enabled with the dpf delete, I have a video in the CR TDI playlist that I walk through purchasing and installed the tunezilla/Malone (as well as a discount code).
@@JoshsJettasokay cool thank you for answering back, keep up the great videos
It sure looks like oil filter change would be much easier without that damn pipe in the way.
Does open that area up nicely, and you don’t have to worry about burning your hand on it
Oh no, I dropped a couple parts. Where did they go? Oh I think I found them, I must have dropped them in to these boxes that i just got that say rawtek and darkside. Yes they look like the parts that belong there.
I'm confused you say 2.5-.27L I found another article that says 5.2-6L
Sorry whats that in regards too?
I need some help with my BRM timing🙈 torsion value is all over the map...
Timing belt tensioner set correctly?
@@JoshsJettas yes, in the window. Thought maybe I was off by a tooth with the sprocket. But it will stabilize at +2.4° then go crazy again
Hey Josh, if you’ve deleted the low pressure EGR and tuned the EGR out already, is there any consequence to also deleting the high pressure EGR line to the intake manifold? This would be to gain better access to the oil filter primarily.
Nope, just install blocker plates on the manifold and egr valve. It is a little tricky to wiggle out of there though
@@JoshsJettas thank you very much!
@@JoshsJettas
Thanks for all your support, I have an issue after all the tuning I still have EGR related problems on scanner which is not allowing me to pass inspection any thoughts on why? I have all the required software. Thanks
@@user-qu7wc7uk2h What state is your car registered in?
@@user-qu7wc7uk2h is it a code or just not readiness set? Malone sets monitors to not ready so it’ll automatically fail even without it throwing a code. If you require readiness you might need a different tuner
Do we really need to do this all , if we have just shut the egr off by a tune .
Nope not needed, just if you want to clean the engine bay up or have a leaking cooler
Would a brass freeze plug work for the turbo egr port
If you can get one driven in tight, you don’t want it to fall out or else the turbo gets unfiltered air
How about a freeze plug first, then an expanding plug? That stops the chance of the expanding plug sending a nut or bolt into the impeller in the case of a bolt breaking in the expanding plug.
Has anyone measured the inside with a micrometer to know the freeze plug size?
I want to make up a rubber plug that slips inside as well as outside and gets held on with a hose clamp. I don’t think the expanding plugs are oil compatible either.
@JoshsJettas the expanding plug used on caterpillar engines for the oil fill cap last decades. They degrade slowly but it's just rubber and always wet with oil. They get removed about once a week and still last atleast 15 years .
Plus i plan to remove the ccv and just put a road draft tube, shouldn't be oil there anymore.
Any tips for removing the EGR cooler with the engine in the car? I've heard people say you can do it without removing the turbo oil drain, but if I need to remove the drain how hard is that to do?
well I did it today, you CAN get the cooler out without touching the turbo oil lines, but it is a serious PITA. You have to unscrew the 6 screws that hold the 2 parts of the cooler together, seriously not fun but that will allow you to get it out without disturbing the turbo (This was on a 2014 Jetta TDI, so others may be different)
That’s good to know, my only experience is removing the cooler during a turbo failure so I wouldn’t have been much help
@@JoshsJettas I was ready to install my parts over the weekend and didn't have new gaskets for the drain so taking it off wasn't an option in my mind. I just started ripping into it LOL
Also my darkside kit came with a straight joiner for the coolant lines, I probably could've made it work by trimming the stock lines because it was heavily kinked, but I opted for a quick run to the parts store for about 3 feet of hose and cut a new line to fit, much cleaner looking and no kinks!
Also possibly worth mentioning, the darkside kit comes with a silicon cap with a worm clamp for the turbo EGR cooler hole instead of the plug, I was also worried about the plug failing and ending up in the turbo. The problem is there is a square piece (your thumb is on it at 9:31) that sticks off, you basically have to take a dremel to it and smooth it out for the cap and clamp to seal nicely, but if you do that it's a perfect solution.
@EJB93 I had seen someone post something like that the other day. I think that’s a really good idea (I wasn’t keen on that boat plug). My welded plug seems to be accumulating dust so I think the weld might be sleeping a little bit of oil/blow by out, I’ll have to look into a cap kit to work.
I specifically bought the darkside one because of that, there was only 1 other kit that offered the cap that I could find and the site looked sketchy. Now that I know what I was dealing with, im sure a similar cap can be found fairly cheap elsewhere. That UK shipping price was ridiculous.
Do you sell any used parts ?
I don’t, Next Generation Volkswagen dismantlers in southern Ontario is my go to
Do I have to take the whole engine out like that? I don't have a garage, I was hoping it would be possible to just jack the car up and do it that way but I guess not...
Engine can stay in, just a lot easier to film/show what’s going on with an engine on the floor.
@@JoshsJettas Thanks for the reply. I have another question. If my DPF is giving code P2002 and my EGR is P0104 insufficient flow, does that mean that my EGR filter is clogged with soot and my DPF filter is cracked allowing soot to enter the filter and clog it? If I, in the meantime, while I'm figuring out what downpipe kit to order (Mec Evo's website is not allowing me to open an account and place an order for some reason) would just doing the tune be better for my car in the meantime while I'm waiting for the other parts to arrive and an opportune moment to do the install? I need a way to get to work.
Exactly, I would go on MR Tuning website, order the stage 2 tune and there should be a drop down for a downpipe, mec evo and MR tuning both sell the same flowdirekt downpipe.
@@JoshsJettas That is what I ended up doing. The downpipe installed ok except I had to buy a small adapter from O'Reilly's to get it to fit just right to on the muffler end.
Is this the 2012 TDI 2.0??? I have messaged you before about mine and was talking about it. I'm ready to order parts to delete so I can fix my daughter's car. Would be great if we could direct message through an app or something so I can speak with you about what all I need to do. Let me know if that would be possible?
Hey send me an email joshthring21@live.ca