Thank you for this video, you answered so many questions I had and I watched so many videos about this egr and none, none of them have been helpful at all. They are a bastard to get off. Thanks again
You are totally correct with your diagnosis of the most common problem with this item, although they have also been issues with water or coolant leaking also. Just a tip you can actually clean the EGR cooler as its stainless steel in construction ,but time consuming and dirty job to do. Best product for this cleaning is Mr Mussel oven cleaner spray which contains Sodium Hydroxide so be careful wear rubber gloves and eye protection.
I usually find that the motor has been worked so hard due to the sticky valve that I just forget about a repair and replace every time - big job though
A great explanation, thank you. Any one know what tells the vehicle's ECM that the EGR unit isn't functioning properly? As shown, there are no sensors in the unit itself, so are the fault codes being generated simply by the position of the electric motor/nylon cogs? From what I can gather so far, the effect on actual emissions isn't enough for the exhaust sensors to generate a fault if the EGR is playing up. Any thoughts??
remember about correct direction egr ending valve in intake, factory outlet is directed on throle, it caused carbon deposits on it, and more problem with intake dirt. if you turn over egr outlet direction oposite to throle then fresh air and egsausth gases coms both in the same way and gas flow by egr coller is way much better. another problem is crankcase ventilation, oil fog & carbon combine together and clog intake. I changed direction egr valve in intake 15000 km past, and last week i have checked and throle was clean.
Similar mechanism on BMW diesels although these suffer from wear on the shaft sleeve which tilts slightly and then doesn't return or exhaust gas blow by through the sleeve which gums up the mechanism. Later versions have a larger roller bearing which doesn't suffer so much when the shaft/sleeve is only slightly worn.
Yes I have got a Vw I have a 2013 blue motion passat 20.tdi, the garage I use are deleting the EGR and are mapping it from 140 to 180. I think Vw should recall these to fix this problem at £1100 pound to replace it’s an expensive part to replace and if you put a new one on it’s only going to do the same thing depending on the driver
The nylon gears fail because of the the hook and plunger that moves the valve becoming worn and jamming. U can see it inside the back cover on the back of the valve body
Hitachi brought out a modified version so that it cant scrap or jam, but essentially the nylon gears would need to be replaced with metal ones and a bigger motor or just total redesign, its just a crap idea, not suprised people delete it.
It does, but 9 times out of 10 you'll replace that then find out its completely clogged up with rock hard carbon and soot and the problem will return, once its out, replace or delete .......
I’m having a problem with a 1.6tdi. It had a DPF delete and map 4 years ago. 2 weeks ago an injector failed and went into limp mode. Replaced the injector coded it and now it’s down on power when in 4th and 5th gear also the temperature gauge drops off when motorway driving but then rises to 90°c again when driving in town. Live data shows EGR command closed buy EGR error at 99.2% which I believe means it’s sticking open. Would the temperature dropping off be caused by a sticking EGR valve.
@@sheepdipR1 I initially thought a sticking thermostat I haven’t tested it so I will also test that. I’m not sure if the temperature was dropping before or if the problem came at the same time. When the temperature gauge is sitting at 90°c it still runs down on power so I don’t think that alone is causing this issue. Would a sticking open EGR valve cause a loss of power. It actually feels like an injector misfiring in 4th and 5th. I’m waiting on a new scanner to pull the fuel trim data but my scanner did pick up the EGR command vs error and it seems way out.
Its also on the 1.6 tdi VW/Audi mine needed replacing at only 36,000 cost of genuine VAG £300 plus VAT Labour cost £220 plus VAT Total nightmare job if you don't have access to a car lift, car on ramps is possible but so much more awkward and space restrictive not good
It's not the EGR and cooler that is expensive to buy, it's doing the job itself which is an absolute mare to do ! even for an experienced mechanic, many garages don't even like doing the job ..... don't go for the absolute cheapest Chinese, there are some very good aftermarket ones now with thousands sold, you don't need the genuine VAG one if you've diagnosed the fault 100% correctly, but as I say, its "having the thing taken off and replaced " thats the expensive bit ....... good luck
My EML light keep coming on and off in my Q5, it’s been a year now, no issues whatsoever, pulls like a train, went to dealer 1st diagnose they told me got something to do with ad blue, paid almost £400, 2 weeks later light came on again, this time they say it’s the EGR, will get a quote sometime this week for replacement. Not happy.
@@JohnJSW turns out my coolant was leaking, noticed oil marks on driveway, cost £420 at local garage to put it right, been couple of months now, no more EML light , touch wood, sorted.
Thank you for this video, you answered so many questions I had and I watched so many videos about this egr and none, none of them have been helpful at all. They are a bastard to get off. Thanks again
great content video explaining how it all works on the EGR.keep up the good work.
You are totally correct with your diagnosis of the most common problem with this item, although they have also been issues with water or coolant leaking also.
Just a tip you can actually clean the EGR cooler as its stainless steel in construction ,but time consuming and dirty job to do.
Best product for this cleaning is Mr Mussel oven cleaner spray which contains Sodium Hydroxide so be careful wear rubber gloves and eye protection.
I usually find that the motor has been worked so hard due to the sticky valve that I just forget about a repair and replace every time - big job though
A great explanation, thank you. Any one know what tells the vehicle's ECM that the EGR unit isn't functioning properly? As shown, there are no sensors in the unit itself, so are the fault codes being generated simply by the position of the electric motor/nylon cogs? From what I can gather so far, the effect on actual emissions isn't enough for the exhaust sensors to generate a fault if the EGR is playing up. Any thoughts??
remember about correct direction egr ending valve in intake, factory outlet is directed on throle, it caused carbon deposits on it, and more problem with intake dirt. if you turn over egr outlet direction oposite to throle then fresh air and egsausth gases coms both in the same way and gas flow by egr coller is way much better. another problem is crankcase ventilation, oil fog & carbon combine together and clog intake. I changed direction egr valve in intake 15000 km past, and last week i have checked and throle was clean.
Similar mechanism on BMW diesels although these suffer from wear on the shaft sleeve which tilts slightly and then doesn't return or exhaust gas blow by through the sleeve which gums up the mechanism. Later versions have a larger roller bearing which doesn't suffer so much when the shaft/sleeve is only slightly worn.
Yes I have got a Vw I have a 2013 blue motion passat 20.tdi, the garage I use are deleting the EGR and are mapping it from 140 to 180. I think Vw should recall these to fix this problem at £1100 pound to replace it’s an expensive part to replace and if you put a new one on it’s only going to do the same thing depending on the driver
agreed, EGR is guaranteed to fail, they put these clean air concept costs back on the consumer, pay £1k every 5 years. I will never buy a diesel again
Great video, thanks. Do you do any software calibration with the new one when you change these?
The nylon gears fail because of the the hook and plunger that moves the valve becoming worn and jamming. U can see it inside the back cover on the back of the valve body
Hitachi brought out a modified version so that it cant scrap or jam, but essentially the nylon gears would need to be replaced with metal ones and a bigger motor or just total redesign, its just a crap idea, not suprised people delete it.
It does, but 9 times out of 10 you'll replace that then find out its completely clogged up with rock hard carbon and soot and the problem will return, once its out, replace or delete .......
I’m having a problem with a 1.6tdi. It had a DPF delete and map 4 years ago. 2 weeks ago an injector failed and went into limp mode. Replaced the injector coded it and now it’s down on power when in 4th and 5th gear also the temperature gauge drops off when motorway driving but then rises to 90°c again when driving in town. Live data shows EGR command closed buy EGR error at 99.2% which I believe means it’s sticking open. Would the temperature dropping off be caused by a sticking EGR valve.
No, that's more like the thermostat has failed and is stuck open
@@sheepdipR1 I initially thought a sticking thermostat I haven’t tested it so I will also test that. I’m not sure if the temperature was dropping before or if the problem came at the same time. When the temperature gauge is sitting at 90°c it still runs down on power so I don’t think that alone is causing this issue. Would a sticking open EGR valve cause a loss of power. It actually feels like an injector misfiring in 4th and 5th. I’m waiting on a new scanner to pull the fuel trim data but my scanner did pick up the EGR command vs error and it seems way out.
Best advice
Thank u excellent explanation
Did help to understand
Thanks again
Its also on the 1.6 tdi VW/Audi mine needed replacing at only 36,000 cost of genuine VAG £300 plus VAT Labour cost £220 plus VAT
Total nightmare job if you don't have access to a car lift, car on ramps is possible but so much more awkward and space restrictive not good
They fail because they are made to fail. Typical BMW/VW parts...
They will make better cars once there sales go down
It's not the EGR and cooler that is expensive to buy, it's doing the job itself which is an absolute mare to do ! even for an experienced mechanic, many garages don't even like doing the job ..... don't go for the absolute cheapest Chinese, there are some very good aftermarket ones now with thousands sold, you don't need the genuine VAG one if you've diagnosed the fault 100% correctly, but as I say, its "having the thing taken off and replaced " thats the expensive bit ....... good luck
My EML light keep coming on and off in my Q5, it’s been a year now, no issues whatsoever, pulls like a train, went to dealer 1st diagnose they told me got something to do with ad blue, paid almost £400, 2 weeks later light came on again, this time they say it’s the EGR, will get a quote sometime this week for replacement. Not happy.
How much was the quote?
@@JohnJSW turns out my coolant was leaking, noticed oil marks on driveway, cost £420 at local garage to put it right, been couple of months now, no more EML light , touch wood, sorted.
£500 part +£300 labour + vat money to burn
The car designed to brake down poor plastic components reliability is very poor on new vw money pit should be cheap to maintain poorly designed
Just turn it off. Bad design.