Thanks, Eugene! I put a set of monarch springers on my motor bike and the travel of the front forks allowed the top of my tire to jam up into the crotch of the back fork and my cracked elbow is still healing from hitting the pavement after my forks exploded into pieces. I’m taking a step back from this fun hobby and plan to use a much heavier design for my next set of suspension forks.
OUCH !!! Can you post some pics of the forks on my facebook page and show what happened. facebook.com/groups/hughesmotorized OR email to HughesMotorized@Gmail , Get well soon.
@@HughesMotorized Sure thing. Just posted before video of the bike and a few after-photos. Lol...the video allows me to clearly see the problem...and my lack of foresight to understand that it was even there in the first place. Experience...what a priceless teacher.
the other concern I’ve always had with most springers is how far it offsets the axle forwards (some more than others, the low rider ones are the worst). So it not only increases the twisting force on your head tube significantly (way more leverage), but also makes the bike more twitchy and unstable at high speed because the steering geometry is ruined (not enough ‘trail’). Look at some of the low rider springer bikes people build, if they hit a big bump at speed with those raked out forks the head tube or steering tube could possibly snap. Glad u made this vid, it could definitely prevent an injury or two
Hello Hugh, I have recently purchased and assembled my motorized mountain bike. I want mine for trail riding only. I have watched many of you videos and learned a lot about these bikes, so thank you. I also subbed and look forward to learning and hearing your thoughts on these bikes. Stay safe.
I used a Schwinn 26 in typhoon with spring forks I didn't have the original bolts so I put ss bolt and lock tighted on almost everything just like you would on a dirt bike we jumped it of curbs and never had any problems. If you never ridden a bike with spring forks I don't suggest trying it with a engine. The only problem I had was not enough brakes and the rims constantly had to be checked because. It really didn't like going 45mph it tend to get speed wobbles if we stayed under 30 it was perty much fine and a fun smooth bike most people don't mount the parts and line everything up currectly and forget to lock tight it all because the vibbration. Sold it to my brother 3years ago he still ride it from time to time he's a cruising guy 🏍️🛠️💯👍✌️🇺🇸💪.
thanks Mr Hughe, I have a feeling that this vid has saved me from what would have been a major serious wipeout and brutal injury, becuase my bike can reach 50mph, and i need reliable front forks, not potential death traps. I cant thank you enough=)
Nice job Mr.Hughes, as always a humourous and very informative vid. I've always said those were death forks even on just standard bike the same can happen just takes longer
I put Monarch style forks on one of my old builds. Worked well. Sold it to a buddy that was into motorized bikes and he still rides it to this day. Never put much faith in this style though, looks incredible flimsy and cheap. Currently moved on to ebikes and getting ready to put some Monarch forks on a DYU D20. The triple tree I installed works but is really stiff on normal bumps, it tends to crush down way too much when applying brakes to the point it feels like you're starting to tumble over the bars. Like the suspension is there, it's just not smooth traveling. Little story behind the set of springers I'm working with for this bike. They were originally planned for a trike build. I was going to use a mid drive motor on it but the cassette sits in so far on a trike setup the chain would only stay on in 6th and seventh gear. Not good for the hills I gotta go up on my street. So went with a front hub motor. The torque on the motor was so strong when I just tweaked the throttle it fully compacted the forks and locked them up. So no springers for the trike
Another thing to keep in mind, is that springer forks give your bike a longer wheelbase, which gives you a bigger turn radius. It changes the steering dynamics, and there can be both pros and cons to that...
On my Huffy I have one they call heavy duty from Bikeberry( one of the only good things I have bought from them that has been good) I haven't had any issues,but I do have to keep the nuts and bolts tight. On mine if the egg Corn Nut comes just a tiny bit loose you feel it right away , the front-end starts drifting. I would say the one I have is okay for Street use I wouldn't take it off any jumps though.
Right on. ALL of the motor kits need sorting. I've had decent luck w/ Bikeberry. Yes, they have to be sorted as all the rest should be. If you want high quality you have to get a builder to build one for you. Ethan Smolik is a great builder I've heard
Humm let's see if I can add to this, you can tig weld a nice flat washer of thickness to either side, might want to add a small gusset longer triangle ⛛ to act as a "Bridge" and now add "needle bearing washers" with washers, naturally, you will trim some of it to get the right width for size. And or get them custom-made as I just described using quality stainless steel as it will have a memory to anti flexing and they won't rust.
Do you have any of the beefed up springer forks built. Im reviving my board track replica. Ive rebuilt it so many time I dont think anything is orginal. Thats why I like watching older videos, so I can see how the bikes have progresed.
I have a springer forks made in Taiwan, already has bottom nylon washers on the inner but not the outter bolts did the recommended upgrades , thank's for the tip.
I try. I have a conscious and I hate to get hurt so wouldn't want to see anyone else suffer. I always ride these things no faster than I'd care to wreck it. Thanks!
The quality of the steel itself is very soft it's very porous bends very easily and after two or three bins it snaps completely off the metal that they're using in the material for their frames and their forks and their handlebars that are coming out of China is laughable at the least.
Exactly. It's the structure, the geometry that keeps them held together as well as they do. They are fine for the designed purpose. Being ridden at pedal speeds. You want to add an engine and go 30mph? OK, wear gear is my advice.
Huh, definitely going to do that mods for my springer forks, even though they're the bike berry heavy duty springer forks. Also I'm probably going to use a mbRebel disc brake adapter for my build to be a street use only bike.
I had a couple of questions regarding my motor bike. I bought the motor kit first then the bike from Walmart. And when I put it together it worked good for two days and now the clutch gets when it wants and when the bike slows down it start to shake real hard
Did you try tightening the clutch cable? For me the cables are always too long, and if you bend it one way or another to make it fit the bike the cable tightness will actually change
The clutch pads that they're selling in these motor kits are garbage they barely engage. As far as the vibration goes it may not be mounted correctly if it is mounted correctly then the crank may not be balanced and you may have bought a really cheap kit although most kits now come with a balanced crank. If you have a ton of vibration it could be your tuning as well if you learn how to tune a carburetor if you're going to drive a two-stroke
Thank you guys. Now somemore questions? I had thought the kit from bicycle engines.com its the zeda 80cc firestorm I believe. So I understand that it must be the pads. And do your bikes have any rubber paddings between the bike frame and motor. Mine don't and since the bike was and I put a motor on it. I lost a lot of nuts and screws from it vibrating. Thinking of locktite for it. Any ideas
@@joseayala4087 usually best not to use rubber on these, usually makes the engine vibrate more because it can move now. Try to make sure the rear mount is perpendicular to the frame and has the right curve to wrap around it closely (usually does), because the rear mount is what mainly keeps the engine aligned and vertical, front mount not so much. Is the clutch slipping when you give it gas or does it drag hard on the engine when you try to keep it running at a stop? That’s what I thought u were saying at first
They sure look cool, but , putting a engine on a bike, is a death trap, on its own, I cut back the odds, of injury, by getting rid of the chain tensioner, and put it on the peddle side, for just a few bucks more, I decided to go with a triple tree fork, instead of rolling the dice, on a Springer. Thanks bro, good advice, the wife says save the Springer fork money, for a life insurance policy.
My lowrider fork has been reliable other than the crown it’s worn down really bad I need a new crown and bolt other than that it’s fine I’ll still go 57mph on it 😅and only using a coaster brake
"Across the Pond" is going east from the Americas to England. Going west to China means crossing a much larger (and more treacherous) body of water. Way back then, it got easy to "cross the pond" back and forth from Europe to the Americas. The Gulf Stream made the wind patterns much more accessibly predictable. From the Americas west coasts? You had to cross THE LAKE (aka, the Pacific Ocean). The Lake was a lot more dangerous to cross, especially going west from the Americas' west coasts. In The Lake, back when wind was the only real power source, the wind would be either mono-directional and more commonly in the wrong direction, or just quit blowing for months at a time. Selective malnutrition and even starvation was a sailor's worst nightmare in The Lake. This is a major reason the sea-lane of discovery first went around the southern tip of Africa to China and the Orient before it backtracked down across The Pond, going west around South America. It's also an overwhelming cause that prevented the seafarers of Asia from going further east enough to exploitatively discover the Americas. Or maybe I'm horribly wrong and don't know what I'm talking about.
Brudda best is disc also zoom large tube triple clamp normal or inverted what I use with a gt aggressor hydrolic brakes on a comp a1 ground control with shifter
what aout taking a solid metal bar and bending it to match the curve of the forks, then brazing or using some sort of clasp to hold it up against he curved bar? or creating some sort of brace to put between the 2 bars? would that add any strength. I need to know because i just bought a Sikk USA fork, and i want to put a hub motor in it, im running the fork on a high power ebike and now Im worried that i made a bad purchase after seeing your vid. I kinda want to keep my nutsack too
There’s two types of springer, girder forks...the original English design, 1917, fitted to motorcycles, and the much better parallelogram girder forks used by, brough superior, Vincent, Triumph and Harley Davidsons to mention a few.....All producing lots of torque... So now bicycling doesn’t like them? Like everything, research the hell out of it to really understand how it works and base your decisions after and not what someone else tells you... FYI, Allen bolts are Not the only high tensile ones available and often cheap Allen bolts or lower grade ones are weaker than others...
I suggest you do your research. This isn't a Harley channel. I'm only referring to the repops of the early 1938 knee action forks patented by Schwinn. Patterned after the British motorcycle forks of the early 1900s.
Wow!! Your momma must have have been a super cool time travelelin' Mamacita. She was either watching episodes of the Red Green Show, or hanging out at with the Guys at Possum Lodge 20 years+/- before the episodes started airing. I can say for sure Steve Smith isn't your pops though.... You would be making episodes about putting a big block 427 on this bicycle, and the Duct Tape would have been more than enough to reinforce the springer forks. Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati!
Just wondering how you feel about the straight tube chopper type forks with the polished billet type upper and lower triple tree’s, they use a cinch bolt through a slice in the fork tube holes for tube retention. So far I’ve had no issues but the bike isn’t motorized yet.
If you building anything that does over 7 mph , don't use these cheapo Springer setups. For $99 you can get a decent motorcycle style triple clamp that you can do 60ish mph with no worries.
I don't do Kit or box store bikes. Trek and other high end bikes IMO are the way to go. These so called cruiser bikes are crap. Your a lot better off buying a vintage bike off Marketplace or private sale. The quality is there. Kit bikes/ Wally world bikes are recycled trash like the China doll engines they come with. My Opinion Only.
Those cheap Chinese springer's look cool but are garbage, Way cheaply made and of the worst quality steel. I have helped a friend put one of those on a basic bicycle and it weighed it down like lead. It looks cool but I wouldn't trust that thing over 15 mph. If you truly want quality parts for your motorized bikes please for the love of everything holly stop buying made in China.
Firstly, I enjoy your videos. Now, on the current topic of springer forks - I've been looking at different suspension fork options for my motorized Schwinn chopper-style Stingray for a while now and have come to the conclusion that it doesn't matter what you do to these bad-excuses for suspension forks - they are UNSAFE period. Don't get me wrong, I mean, you've made a decent attempt here at making them a tad stronger, but it's still UNSAFE. As soon as you lean a little bit into a bend on the tarmac, you will feel the weakness in the actual arms of the fork and it doesn't matter what you do to them, it's something you can't get rid of. It's a part of the fork's (poor) design that nothing can be done about ...... I DID, however, come across another option and if you do have the funds to head in that direction, then that definitely will be the way I'd recommend....CHECK IT OUT - you may already be aware of them but in case you're not, it's the 'Linkage fork' from 3GBIKES.COM, they are the next best thing to a pair of 'full-house' motorcycle spec/quality springer-style fork. You simply won't find anything else on the (after)market that'll feel stronger and/or safer... trust me, I've spent the last six-plus months searching for my Schwinn (check it out in my videos if you get a chance ! I'm very proud of the constant thumbs-up in the public domain wherever I happen to ride it) and providing you can afford them - they're definitely the forks I'd recommend for anyone's motorized bicycle application if safety and the looks are your primary points of concern.... I'm currently in the process of importing two pairs of them into Australia - yes it'll be an expensive exercise but I think it's worth it. Here's the link : www.3gbikes.com/product-page/triple-tree-fork
Thanks, Eugene! I put a set of monarch springers on my motor bike and the travel of the front forks allowed the top of my tire to jam up into the crotch of the back fork and my cracked elbow is still healing from hitting the pavement after my forks exploded into pieces. I’m taking a step back from this fun hobby and plan to use a much heavier design for my next set of suspension forks.
OUCH !!! Can you post some pics of the forks on my facebook page and show what happened. facebook.com/groups/hughesmotorized OR email to HughesMotorized@Gmail , Get well soon.
@@HughesMotorized Sure thing. Just posted before video of the bike and a few after-photos. Lol...the video allows me to clearly see the problem...and my lack of foresight to understand that it was even there in the first place.
Experience...what a priceless teacher.
the other concern I’ve always had with most springers is how far it offsets the axle forwards (some more than others, the low rider ones are the worst). So it not only increases the twisting force on your head tube significantly (way more leverage), but also makes the bike more twitchy and unstable at high speed because the steering geometry is ruined (not enough ‘trail’). Look at some of the low rider springer bikes people build, if they hit a big bump at speed with those raked out forks the head tube or steering tube could possibly snap. Glad u made this vid, it could definitely prevent an injury or two
@Mr Bike haha true🤣 too much chrome, not enough steel
Hello Hugh, I have recently purchased and assembled my motorized mountain bike. I want mine for trail riding only. I have watched many of you videos and learned a lot about these bikes, so thank you. I also subbed and look forward to learning and hearing your thoughts on these bikes. Stay safe.
Sounds great! Enjoy & have fun
Checked out your channel really cool I found some one using the bike for bushcraft. I'm going over to sub .
@@Jarrod_D LOL thanks, i enjoy this build and ride it alot thru the trails. :)
I used a Schwinn 26 in typhoon with spring forks I didn't have the original bolts so I put ss bolt and lock tighted on almost everything just like you would on a dirt bike we jumped it of curbs and never had any problems. If you never ridden a bike with spring forks I don't suggest trying it with a engine. The only problem I had was not enough brakes and the rims constantly had to be checked because. It really didn't like going 45mph it tend to get speed wobbles if we stayed under 30 it was perty much fine and a fun smooth bike most people don't mount the parts and line everything up currectly and forget to lock tight it all because the vibbration. Sold it to my brother 3years ago he still ride it from time to time he's a cruising guy 🏍️🛠️💯👍✌️🇺🇸💪.
New sub here bud, love the enthusiasm and detailed explanations, love the old school sayings and comedy too! Keep up the great work.
Welcome aboard! Thanks
thanks Mr Hughe, I have a feeling that this vid has saved me from what would have been a major serious wipeout and brutal injury, becuase my bike can reach 50mph, and i need reliable front forks, not potential death traps. I cant thank you enough=)
Nice job Mr.Hughes, as always a humourous and very informative vid.
I've always said those were death forks even on just standard bike the same can happen just takes longer
Yup. Thanks. I've seen a lot of pics online of Mbs w/ them. I hope they don't learn the hard way
I put Monarch style forks on one of my old builds. Worked well. Sold it to a buddy that was into motorized bikes and he still rides it to this day. Never put much faith in this style though, looks incredible flimsy and cheap.
Currently moved on to ebikes and getting ready to put some Monarch forks on a DYU D20. The triple tree I installed works but is really stiff on normal bumps, it tends to crush down way too much when applying brakes to the point it feels like you're starting to tumble over the bars. Like the suspension is there, it's just not smooth traveling.
Little story behind the set of springers I'm working with for this bike. They were originally planned for a trike build. I was going to use a mid drive motor on it but the cassette sits in so far on a trike setup the chain would only stay on in 6th and seventh gear. Not good for the hills I gotta go up on my street. So went with a front hub motor. The torque on the motor was so strong when I just tweaked the throttle it fully compacted the forks and locked them up. So no springers for the trike
what about dual springers? the kind thats looks like motorcycle forks. not sure of brand but saw it on a motorized bike website. 🍻
The rounded ones are fine. The square ones have been known to fail. I had a set fold under on me
Hay thanks I'm thinking of putting a Springer on my swit fleet cruiser
Another thing to keep in mind, is that springer forks give your bike a longer wheelbase, which gives you a bigger turn radius. It changes the steering dynamics, and there can be both pros and cons to that...
On my Huffy I have one they call heavy duty from Bikeberry( one of the only good things I have bought from them that has been good) I haven't had any issues,but I do have to keep the nuts and bolts tight. On mine if the egg Corn Nut comes just a tiny bit loose you feel it right away , the front-end starts drifting. I would say the one I have is okay for Street use I wouldn't take it off any jumps though.
Right on. ALL of the motor kits need sorting. I've had decent luck w/ Bikeberry. Yes, they have to be sorted as all the rest should be. If you want high quality you have to get a builder to build one for you. Ethan Smolik is a great builder I've heard
Thanks, I had actually bought a schwinn swindler
Humm let's see if I can add to this, you can tig weld a nice flat washer of thickness to either side, might want to add a small gusset longer triangle ⛛ to act as a "Bridge" and now add "needle bearing washers" with washers, naturally, you will trim some of it to get the right width for size. And or get them custom-made as I just described using quality stainless steel as it will have a memory to anti flexing and they won't rust.
Great tip!
Did you ever do the video on the presumably bent springer fork? I happen to be trying to find a bent springer fork for a 26x4.0 tire.
Do you have any of the beefed up springer forks built. Im reviving my board track replica. Ive rebuilt it so many time I dont think anything is orginal. Thats why I like watching older videos, so I can see how the bikes have progresed.
I have a springer forks made in Taiwan, already has bottom nylon washers on the inner but not the outter bolts did the recommended upgrades , thank's for the tip.
Thank you for this. I'm tired of seeing people on these spring themed death traps. Nut joke was really funny!
Walnuts always makes them laugh. You are welcome
Good video. Gonna swap these out for longer term riding.
Good choice!
WHEN HE SAID GET YOUR NUTSACK RIPPED OPENED I AUTOMATICALLY DON'T WANNA INSTALL SPRING FORKS ON MY BEACH CRUISER ANYMORE
Keep the sack safe bro!
you're the only motorized bike content producer who seems to give a damn about safety.
I try. I have a conscious and I hate to get hurt so wouldn't want to see anyone else suffer. I always ride these things no faster than I'd care to wreck it. Thanks!
Thank you, was wondering about the cheap springer forks. Due to your diligence now I know. My front teeth thank you too.
Ganna send this to my brother before he builds another bike, he said he said planing on putting on of these on.
i want to get my bike going again 😭
Do you have any videos showing the pipes you bent and fabricated? I would like to see what they ended up looking like.
I have a set on my Murder Trike. Just did a video on it
Went through your channel didnt see if you made a bent fork update fabrication...trying to lower my beach cruiser safer
The quality of the steel itself is very soft it's very porous bends very easily and after two or three bins it snaps completely off the metal that they're using in the material for their frames and their forks and their handlebars that are coming out of China is laughable at the least.
Exactly. It's the structure, the geometry that keeps them held together as well as they do. They are fine for the designed purpose. Being ridden at pedal speeds. You want to add an engine and go 30mph? OK, wear gear is my advice.
Huh, definitely going to do that mods for my springer forks, even though they're the bike berry heavy duty springer forks. Also I'm probably going to use a mbRebel disc brake adapter for my build to be a street use only bike.
The one in the vid came from Bikeberry
@@HughesMotorized huh, then I'm definitely going to do a service to prevent problems near my fork tube
I had a couple of questions regarding my motor bike. I bought the motor kit first then the bike from Walmart. And when I put it together it worked good for two days and now the clutch gets when it wants and when the bike slows down it start to shake real hard
Did you try tightening the clutch cable? For me the cables are always too long, and if you bend it one way or another to make it fit the bike the cable tightness will actually change
The clutch pads that they're selling in these motor kits are garbage they barely engage. As far as the vibration goes it may not be mounted correctly if it is mounted correctly then the crank may not be balanced and you may have bought a really cheap kit although most kits now come with a balanced crank. If you have a ton of vibration it could be your tuning as well if you learn how to tune a carburetor if you're going to drive a two-stroke
Thank you guys. Now somemore questions? I had thought the kit from bicycle engines.com its the zeda 80cc firestorm I believe. So I understand that it must be the pads. And do your bikes have any rubber paddings between the bike frame and motor. Mine don't and since the bike was and I put a motor on it. I lost a lot of nuts and screws from it vibrating. Thinking of locktite for it. Any ideas
@@joseayala4087 usually best not to use rubber on these, usually makes the engine vibrate more because it can move now. Try to make sure the rear mount is perpendicular to the frame and has the right curve to wrap around it closely (usually does), because the rear mount is what mainly keeps the engine aligned and vertical, front mount not so much. Is the clutch slipping when you give it gas or does it drag hard on the engine when you try to keep it running at a stop? That’s what I thought u were saying at first
Well thanks for helping me find someone actually doing something on there bike I hope .
Yea bud never liked springer forks for a motorized bicycle just to sketchy to me, but I can definitely see y it’s tempting to use them
I haven't seen any updates on this video. Did you ever make one ??? Link please.
They sure look cool, but , putting a engine on a bike, is a death trap, on its own, I cut back the odds, of injury, by getting rid of the chain tensioner, and put it on the peddle side, for just a few bucks more, I decided to go with a triple tree fork, instead of rolling the dice, on a Springer. Thanks bro, good advice, the wife says save the Springer fork money, for a life insurance policy.
My lowrider fork has been reliable other than the crown it’s worn down really bad I need a new crown and bolt other than that it’s fine I’ll still go 57mph on it 😅and only using a coaster brake
send it!
Damn that was very helpful.
Ok I see the bike Berry forks breaking... But what about lowrider forks that are made for bouncing on??
Same materials, same design. Bikeberry is buying from the same suppliers
"Across the Pond" is going east from the Americas to England. Going west to China means crossing a much larger (and more treacherous) body of water. Way back then, it got easy to "cross the pond" back and forth from Europe to the Americas. The Gulf Stream made the wind patterns much more accessibly predictable.
From the Americas west coasts? You had to cross THE LAKE (aka, the Pacific Ocean). The Lake was a lot more dangerous to cross, especially going west from the Americas' west coasts. In The Lake, back when wind was the only real power source, the wind would be either mono-directional and more commonly in the wrong direction, or just quit blowing for months at a time. Selective malnutrition and even starvation was a sailor's worst nightmare in The Lake.
This is a major reason the sea-lane of discovery first went around the southern tip of Africa to China and the Orient before it backtracked down across The Pond, going west around South America. It's also an overwhelming cause that prevented the seafarers of Asia from going further east enough to exploitatively discover the Americas.
Or maybe I'm horribly wrong and don't know what I'm talking about.
Thanks. You learnt this Texas boy something
Is there away to mount brakes on a schwinn springer?
Good points. Thanks for the vid!
Thanks for watching!
Brudda best is disc also zoom large tube triple clamp normal or inverted what I use with a gt aggressor hydrolic brakes on a comp a1 ground control with shifter
Good tip! Love them triple trees
Yet another "safety issue" caused by people not doing a single hint of maintenance. How hard is it to check your bike every couple weeks?
You always amaze and giving me idea thank you sir more power andvideo here in manila salute you
Good to know. Do you think you would sell those bar stock forks?. I would be glad to buy a set
39 dollars on sale at bike berry right now. I was going to get that exact one but it does look just a litlle wanky.
U got one heavy duty lowrider front Springer forks for sale?
Thank you for the information
My pleasure
this was very helpful and you probably saved my un torn balls
what aout taking a solid metal bar and bending it to match the curve of the forks, then brazing or using some sort of clasp to hold it up against he curved bar? or creating some sort of brace to put between the 2 bars? would that add any strength. I need to know because i just bought a Sikk USA fork, and i want to put a hub motor in it, im running the fork on a high power ebike and now Im worried that i made a bad purchase after seeing your vid. I kinda want to keep my nutsack too
Good idea. That's what I did on my Murder Trike. ruclips.net/video/DyY7cQAG570/видео.html
Depends on your usage. Bicycle, yes. Motorized bicycle, if above 35mph, hell no.
There’s two types of springer, girder forks...the original English design, 1917, fitted to motorcycles, and the much better parallelogram girder forks used by, brough superior, Vincent, Triumph and Harley Davidsons to mention a few.....All producing lots of torque...
So now bicycling doesn’t like them?
Like everything, research the hell out of it to really understand how it works and base your decisions after and not what someone else tells you...
FYI, Allen bolts are Not the only high tensile ones available and often cheap Allen bolts or lower grade ones are weaker than others...
I suggest you do your research. This isn't a Harley channel. I'm only referring to the repops of the early 1938 knee action forks patented by Schwinn. Patterned after the British motorcycle forks of the early 1900s.
Wow!!
Your momma must have have been a super cool time travelelin' Mamacita. She was either watching episodes of the Red Green Show, or hanging out at with the Guys at Possum Lodge 20 years+/- before the episodes started airing. I can say for sure Steve Smith isn't your pops though.... You would be making episodes about putting a big block 427 on this bicycle, and the Duct Tape would have been more than enough to reinforce the springer forks.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati!
You got it !
Just wondering how you feel about the straight tube chopper type forks with the polished billet type upper and lower triple tree’s, they use a cinch bolt through a slice in the fork tube holes for tube retention.
So far I’ve had no issues but the bike isn’t motorized yet.
Most of those seem like they are good
I have a set of these on my DYU right now. No issues with the thing staying together and holding steady.
E Gene I need a clutch pin bearing! Can you help?
Here you go: ruclips.net/video/t4v3S0Cg2jQ/видео.html
I knew who had a Lemon Peeler with one of those
If you building anything that does over 7 mph , don't use these cheapo Springer setups. For $99 you can get a decent motorcycle style triple clamp that you can do 60ish mph with no worries.
5:25 looks like a piece of chrome plated electrical conduit
scary, huh?
Cool 😎
I don't do Kit or box store bikes. Trek and other high end bikes IMO are the way to go. These so called cruiser bikes are crap. Your a lot better off buying a vintage bike off Marketplace or private sale. The quality is there. Kit bikes/ Wally world bikes are recycled trash like the China doll engines they come with. My Opinion Only.
Those springer forks are reproductions of a Triumph Model J or H
exactly. I read somewhere that Schwinn licensed the design for use on bicycles from Triumph
@@HughesMotorized yes they did but it wasn't until December of 1937 for the first model 1938 bicycles .
@@garyquail4996 Here's some info on it: onlinebicyclemuseum.co.uk/1930-excelsior-triumph-motobike/
10:40 lol
You betta bring your sack o nuts home safely. Sage advice
Get that fender off!
What an awful design! 2:58 Three threads into it and no washer? Nonsense.
Get it off!!!!
Those cheap Chinese springer's look cool but are garbage, Way cheaply made and of the worst quality steel. I have helped a friend put one of those on a basic bicycle and it weighed it down like lead. It looks cool but I wouldn't trust that thing over 15 mph. If you truly want quality parts for your motorized bikes please for the love of everything holly stop buying made in China.
Klickbait. The problem here is clearly not the type of fork, but the bad design and poor build quality.
Firstly, I enjoy your videos.
Now, on the current topic of springer forks - I've been looking at different suspension fork options for my motorized Schwinn chopper-style Stingray for a while now and have come to the conclusion that it doesn't matter what you do to these bad-excuses for suspension forks - they are UNSAFE period.
Don't get me wrong, I mean, you've made a decent attempt here at making them a tad stronger, but it's still UNSAFE. As soon as you lean a little bit into a bend on the tarmac, you will feel the weakness in the actual arms of the fork and it doesn't matter what you do to them, it's something you can't get rid of. It's a part of the fork's (poor) design that nothing can be done about ......
I DID, however, come across another option and if you do have the funds to head in that direction, then that definitely will be the way I'd recommend....CHECK IT OUT - you may already be aware of them but in case you're not, it's the 'Linkage fork' from 3GBIKES.COM, they are the next best thing to a pair of 'full-house' motorcycle spec/quality springer-style fork. You simply won't find anything else on the (after)market that'll feel stronger and/or safer... trust me, I've spent the last six-plus months searching for my Schwinn (check it out in my videos if you get a chance ! I'm very proud of the constant thumbs-up in the public domain wherever I happen to ride it) and providing you can afford them - they're definitely the forks I'd recommend for anyone's motorized bicycle application if safety and the looks are your primary points of concern....
I'm currently in the process of importing two pairs of them into Australia - yes it'll be an expensive exercise but I think it's worth it.
Here's the link :
www.3gbikes.com/product-page/triple-tree-fork